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□    Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


D 
D 


n 


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Covers  restorea  and/or  laminated/ 
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□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

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Hi: 


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n 
n 

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□ 


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Pages  damaged/ 
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Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu^  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

SOX 

/ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


lire 

details 
ues  du 
:  modifier 
gar  una 
!  filmaga 


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to  the  generosity  of: 

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filmage. 


/ 
u^as 


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empreinte. 


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shall  contain  the  symbol  —^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


aire 


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et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombra 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


by  errata 
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ant 

une  pelui-e, 

facon  d 


1 

2 

3 

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ARCTIC 

EXPLORATIONS: 


Zllt  Sttonb  ©rinncll  ^v^cbition 


IN    SKAUCII    (IF 


SIR   JOHN    FRANKLIN. 


1853,  'oi  '55. 


«Y 


ELISIIA  KENT  KANE,  M.D.,  U.  S.  N. 


illustuati:d  hy  upwakds  op  tiiiu-k  ih-ndui;!)  f.nguavi.ngs, 

<f  rom  Sketches  by  the  3^utbor. 

THE    STEEL    PLATES    EXECUTED    UNDER    THE    SUPERINTENDENCE    OF    J.   M.   CUTLER, 
THE   WOOD    ENGRAVINGS   DY    VAN    INGEN   &,   SNYDER. 


VOL.  I. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
CIIILDS  &  PETEllSOX,    124  ARCH   STREET. 

.T.  B.  IJI'l'INCOTT  &  CO.,  20  N.  FOURTH  ST. 

BOSTON:    I'lIILLTI'S,   SAM1'S<^»'   «   CO.,  13  VriNTKR   STUKKT. 

.M;\V  YOKK:  (i.  1>   T  CTNAM  &  CO.,  3'21  HUO.\DWAV. 

CINCINNATI:    APl'LEOATE   &  CO.,  48  MAIN   STREET. 

185G. 


259205 


K  ^ 


Knteri'd  nccordlng  tn  net  of  CdiiKiuss,  In  thu  year  VihVi,  hy 

K.  K.  \\  A  N  10, 

in  the  Clurk's  Office  of  tho  District  ("niii  t  of  llip  fnitud  Statfs  lor  tlio  I^isturn 
Dititiict  of  I'uiiusylvaiiia. 


STEllEOTVl'ED    IIY    I..   JOIINSDM   4   CU. 

PIIII.ADICLl'llIA. 

PIIIXTKD  BI  J.  B.  LU'PINCOTT  4  CO. 


^ 


Publishers'  Advertisement. 


^ 


Ilaviug  purchaml  the  fitcreoti/pe  plates  of  the  "First 
Grinnell  Expeditiox,"  h,/  Dr.  Kane,  ice  have  Improml 
it  hj  the  addition  of  manf/  new  HI  ust  rat  ions,  together  with 
a  fine  steel  portrait  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  and  a  sheteh  of 
his  life,  extracted  from  A/ 1 iljvnes  forthcoming  Dictionarij 
of  Literature  and  Authors. 

We  icill  hereafter  issae  the  volume  in  a  style  to  corre- 
spond with  the  present  work. 

CIIILDS  .J'  PETERSON. 

Philadelphia,  September,  1856. 


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1 

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PREFACE. 


i 


I 


Tins  book  is  not  a  record  of  scientific  inves- 
tigations. 

While  engaged,  under  the  orders  of  the  Navy 
Department,  in  arranging  and  ehiborating  the 
results  of  the  late  expedition  to  the  Arctic  seas, 
I  have  availed  myself  of  the  permission  of  the 
Secretary  to  connect  together  the  passages  of 
my  journal  that  could  have  interest  for  the 
general  reader,  and  to  ^jublish  them  as  a  nar- 
rative of  the  adventures  of  my  party.  I  have 
attempted  very  little  else. 

The  engravings  with  which  my  very  liberal 
publishers  have  illustrated  it,  will  cev+ainly 
add  greatly  to  any  value  the  text  may  possess. 
Although   largely,    and,    in    some    cases   exclu- 


6 


PREFACE. 


sively,  indebted  for  tlieir  interest  to  the  artistic 
skill  of  Mr.  Hamilton,  they  are,  with  scarcely 
an  exception,  from  sketches  made  on  the  spot. 

E.  K.  K. 

PiiiLADKLPiiTA,  Jaly  4,  1856. 


Contents. 


CHAPTER   1. 

Organization— Equipment— St.  John's— Baffin's  Bay— Sounding      !• 


PAGE 
g  15 


CHAPTER  II. 

Fiskcrnaos  — The  Fishery— Mr.  Lassen  — Hans  Cristian— Lich- 


teufcls — Sulvkcrtoppen. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Coast  of  Greenland  — Swarte-huk  — Last  Danish  Outposts— Mel- 
ville Bay— In  the  Ice— Bears  — Borg.s —Anchor  to  a  Berg— 
Midui<j,ht  Sunshine oq 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Boring  the  Floes— Successful  Passage  through  :\TelvilIe  Bay— Ice- 
Navigation— Passage  of  the  Middle  Pack— The  North  Water.     38 

CHAPTER  V. 

Crimson  Cliffs  of  Beverlry— Hakluyt  and  Northumberland— Red 
Snow— The  Gates  of  Smith's  Straits— Cape  Alexander— Cape 
Ilatherton  —  Farewell  Cairn  —  Life-boat  Depot  —  Esquimaux 
Ruins  found — Graves — Flagstaff  Point 44 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Closing  wiih  the  lee— Refuge  Harbor— Dogs— Walrus— Narwhal 
—Ice-hills — Beacon-cairn— Anchored  to  a  Berg— E-scjuimaux 


8 


CONTENTS. 


PACK 


Huts — Peter  Force  Bay — (^ipe  ("ornoliuH  Clrinncll — Shallows 

— A  Gale — The  recreant  Dot's 5-t 


CILVrTKll  VII. 

The  Eric  on  a  Borg  —  Godsend  Ijed<j;o  —  Holding  on — Adrift - 
Scudding — Towed  by  a  Berg — Under  the  Clifis — iS'ippings- 
Aground — Ice-pressure — At  rest 


GG 


CHAPTKR   YIII. 

Tracking — Inspecting  a  Harbor — The  3Iusk-ox — Still  Tracking- 
Consultation — Warping  Again — Aground  near  the  Ice-foot- 
A  IJreathing-spell — The  Boat-expedition — Departure 


78 


CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Depot  journey  —  The  Ice-belt  —  Crossing  Minturn  River — 
Skeleton  Musk-ox — Crossing  the  Glacier — Portage  of  Instru- 
ments—  Excessive  IJurden  —  Mary  Minturn  River  —  Fording 
the  River — Thackeray  Headland — Cape  John  W.  Francis — 
Return  to  the  Brig — The  Winter  Harbor 91 

CHAPTER  X. 

Approaching  Winter — Storing  Provisions  —  Butler  Storehouse  — 
Sunday  at  Rest — Building  Observatory — Training  the  Dogs — 
The  Little  Willie— The  Road— The  Faith— Sledging— Recon- 
uoissance — Depot- party 104 

CHAPTER   XI. 

The  Observatory — Thernionieters — The  Rats — The  Brig  on  Fire 
Ancient  Sledge-tracks —  Esquimaux  Huts  —  Hydrophobia  — 
Sledge-driving — Musk-ox  Tracks — A  Sledge-party IIG 

CHAPTER   XII. 

Leaping  a  Chasm  —  The  Tcc-bclt — Cape  George  Russell  —  Camp 
on  the  Floes  —  Return  of  Depot-party  —  Bonsall's  Adventure 
— Results — An  Escape — The  Third  Cache — McGary  Island..    I'll 


C  0  N  T  K  X  T  S. 


9 


PAr.K 


Shallows 


/Vdrift- 

ipiiigs- 


cc-tbot — 


River — 
i"  liistru- 
•  Fording 
raricis — 


house  — 
!  Dogs — 
— llecou- 


54 


G6 


78 


91 


104 


'  on  Fire 
)hobia  — 


110 


—  Camp 
dvonture 
Island..    127 


CIIAPTKII   XIII.  ,,„,„ 

Walrus-holes— Advance  of  Darkness — Darkness  —  The  Cold  — 

"The  lee-blink"— Fox-chase— Escjuimaux  J  hits— Oceultat  ion 

of  Saturn— Portrait  of  Old  Grim 140 


CIIArTEll   XIV. 

Magnetic  Observatory—  Temperatures— Returning  Light— Dark- 
ness and  the  Dogs— Iljdropho))ia—Iee-ehanges— The  lee-foot 
— The  Ice-belt — The  Sunlight — March ir,2 


CHAPTER   XV. 

Arctic  Observations — Travel  to  Observatory— Its  Hazards — Arctic 
Life- The  Day— The  Diet— The  Amusements— The  Labors— 
The  Temperature  — The  '•' Eis-fod"— The  Tee-belt- The  lee- 
belt  encroaching  —  Expedition  preparing— Good-bye — A  Sur- 
prise—A second  Good-bye loo 


CHAPTER  XVL 

Preparation  —  Temperatures— Adventure— An  Alarm— Party  on 
the  FIoos  — Rescue-party  — Lost  on  tlie  Floes  — Party  found 
—Return  — Freezing  — Returning  Camp— A  Bivouac— Ex- 
hausted— Escape — Conse(iuences i  sg 


CHAPTER  XVIL 

Baker's  Death— yV.  Visit— The  Esquimaux— A  Negotiation— 
Their  Equipment— Their  Deportment — A  Treaty— The  Fare- 
well—The Sequel— Myouk— His  Escape— Schubert's  Illness.  200 

CHAPTER  XVIIl. 

A n  Exploration  —  Equipmen t  —  Outfit  —  Departure  —  Results- 
Features  of  Coast  — Architectural  Rocks  — Three  lijother 
Turrets  — Tennyson's  Monument  — The  Great  Glacier  of 
Humboldt 


o  1  r. 


15 


10 


cox  T  K  x\  T  S. 


CHAl'TKll    XTX.  r.voE 

rrofrresH   of   the   Party — I'mstratioii — l);ill;is    I>;iy — Doath    uf 
8clml)('i't — The  Hri^^  in  .May — I*riij:ross  of  Spriiiu;—  Mc(  i:irv's 
llcturn — Dr.  Hayes's   Party — K((ui{)ineiit  —  Schu})ert's   Fu- 
neral     '2-ld 


CHAPTER  XX. 

i^'eal-hiuitintr  —  Sir  John  Frankli:-  —  Resources — Acelirnatization 
— The  Hope  —  Dr.  Hayes's  k  *urn  —  His  Journey — Siiow- 
blindiiess  —  Cape  Hayes  —  The  J)o<rs  tanded  —  Mendiufz;  the 
Harness  —  Capes  Leidy  and  Frazer — |)(»l)bin  Ray — FK,'teher 
"Webster  Headland  —  Peter  Force  iiiiy — \ew  Parties  —  Their 
Orders  —  I'rogress  of  Season  —  The  Seal  —  The  Netsik  and 
Usuk — A  Rear — Our  Encounter — Change  in  the  Floe 241 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

rrogress  of  Season — Plants  in  Winter — JJirds  Returning — Coch- 
learia— The  Plants 205 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

Mr  Ronsall's  Return — Tlis  Story — The  Rear  in  Camp — Ilis  Fate 
—Rears  at  Sport— The  Thaws 272 


CHAPTER  XXIIT. 

Morton  8  Return  —  His  Narrative  —  Peabod}'  Ray — Through  the 
Y>vrp..=i — Rridging  the  Chasms — The  West  Land — The  Dogs  in 
Fright— Open  Water— The  Ice-foot— The  Polar  Tides— Capes 
Jackson  and  ^lorris — The  Channel — Free  of  Ice  —  Rirds  and 
Plants— Rear  and  Cub  — The  Hunt  — The  Death  — Franklin 
and  Lafayette — The  Antarctic  Flag — Course  of  Tides — Mount 
Parry—  Victoria  and  Albert  jNFountains — Resume — The  Rirds 
appear-  The  Vegetation  —  The  Petrel — Cape  Constitution — 
Theories  of  an  Open  Sea — Illusory  Discoveries — Changes  of 
Climate-   A  Suggestion.. 280 


CONTEXTS. 


11 


PAGE 


ath    of 
(■<l;iry's 
•t's    Fu- 


229 


C  IT  A  IT  Ell  XXIV. 


l'A<il» 


Prospects — Spoonlatlons — Tho  Arfniiiioiit — The  Conplusinn — Tho 
Roconnoissanco  —  Tlio  Si-Iioiuo  —  K(|uipnu>iit  of  IJont-party — 
Eider  Island — IFans  Islaiul — Tlio  (Viriiioraiit  flull — Si'iitiiacnt 
— Our  Charts — Captain  Inglcflold — Discrepancies — A  Gale — 
FasttoaFloe 310 


itization 

—  Hiiow- 
liiiii;  the 
Flt'tclier 

—  Their 
tsik  and 
e 


241 


-Coch- 


2G5 


ITis  Fate 


272 


niiili  the 
[)o<rs  in 
— Capes 

iinls  and 
•raiiklin 
-Mount 
ic  Birds 
tution — 

angcs  of 


280 


CIIAPTKR  XXV. 

Working  On — A  Roat-nip — Ice-barrier — The  Barrier  Park  — 
Progress  Hopeless — Northumbcrlajid  Island — Northumberland 
Glacier — Ice-cascades — Ncvc 320 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

The  Ice-foot  in  August  —  The  Pack  in  August  —  Ice-blasting  — 
Fox-trap  Point  — "Warping  —  Tho  Prospect  —  Approaching 
Climax  —  Signal-cairn  —  The  Record — Projected  Withdrawal 
—The  Question— The  Determination- The  Result 337 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Discipline — Building  Tgloe— Tossut — Mossing — After  Seal — On 
the  young  Ice — Going  too  far — Seals  at  Home — In  the  V7ater 
—In  Safety— Death  of  Tiger 3r)2 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

The  Esquimaux — Larceny — The  Arrest — The  Punishment — The 
Treaty  —  "Unbroken  Faith" — IMy  Brother — Return  from  a 
Hunt — Our  Life — Anoatok — A  Welcome — Treaty  confirmed..  303 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Walrus-grounds — Lost  on  the  Ice — A  Break-up — Iglou  of  Anoa- 
tok— Its  Garniture — Creature  Comforts — Esquimaux  Music — 
—  Usages  of  the  Table  —  New  London  Avenue  —  Scant  diet- 
list —  Bear  and  Cub — A  Hunt  —  Close  Quarters  —  Bear-fight- 
ing— Bear-habits — Boar's  Liver — Rats  —  The  Terrier  Fox  — 
The  Arctic  Hare — The  Ice-foot  Canopy — A  Wolf — Dogs  and 


12 


CONTENTS. 


r.iOB 


"Wolves — Boar  and  Fox — The  Nativos  and  dursdvos — Winter 
Quarters — .Morton's  lleturn — The  Lii^lit 376 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

Journey  of  Murton  and  Hans — Roeoption — Tlu'  Hut — The  Wal- 
rus— Walrus-hunt — The  Contest — Habits  of  Walrus — l-'eroeity 
of  the  Walrus— The  Vietory— The  Jubilee— A  Sipak 404 

CHAPTER  XXX r. 

An  Aurora — Wood-cutting —  Fuel-estimate  —  The  Stove-pipes  — 
The  Arctic  Firmament  —  Escjuimaux  Astronomy — Heatinir- 
npparatus — Meteoric  Shower — A  Rear — Hasty  Retreat — The 
Cabin  by  Nii^ht — Sickness  Increasing — Cutting  into  the  lirig 
—The  Night-watch 420 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Esquimaux  Sledges  —  Ronsall's  Return  —  Eesults  of  the  Hunt — 
Return  of  witlidrawing  Party — Their  lieccption — The  Es(jui- 
maux  Escort — Conference — Conciliation — Un  Fire — Casualty 
— Christmas — Olo  Ren — A  Journey  Ahead — Setting  out — A 
dreary  Night — Striking  a  Light — End  of  1854 435 


PAOB 


—"Winter 


376 


n.e  ^Yill. 

~l''erucity 

k 404 


GLOSSAllY  or  Allelic   TERMS. 


[spijtcs  — 
Ili;atii)<x- 

rat— The 
the  lirig 


420 


0  Hunt — 

'ho  l']s(jui- 
— Casualty 
<:  out — A 


435 


Bay-ivc,  ice  of  recent  fonuation,  so  called  because  forming  most  readily 
in  bays  and  sheltered  sp(jts. 

Berg,  (see  Iceberg.) 

Beset,  so  enclosed  by  floating  ice  as  to  be  unable  to  navigate. 

B'xjht,  an  indentation. 

BlastiiKj,  breaking  the  ice  by  gunpowder  introduced  iu  cani-stcra. 

Bllnlc,  (see  Ice-blink.) 

Bore,  to  force  through  loose  or  recent  ice  by  sails  or  steam. 
Brash,  ice  broken  up  into  small  fragments. 

Calf,  detached  masses  from  berg  or  glacier,  rising  suddenly  to  the 
surface. 

Crow's  nest,  a  look-out  place  attached  to  the  top-gallant-masthead. 
Dock,  an  opening  in  the  ice,  artiticial  or  natural,  oflbring  protection. 
Drift  ice,  detached  ice  in  motion. 
Field-ice,  an  extensive  surface  of  floating  ice. 
Fiord,  an  abrupt  opening  in  the  coast-line,  admitting  the  sea. 
Fire-hole,  a  well  dug  in  the  ice  as  a  safeguard  in  case  of  fire. 
Floe,  a  detached  portion  of  a  field. 

Glacier,  a  mass  of  ice  derived  from  the  atmosphere,  sometimes  abut- 
ting upon  the  sea. 
Summochs,  ridges  of  broken  ice  formed  by  collision  of  fields. 
Ice-anchor^  a  hook  or  grapnel  adapted  to  take  hold  upon  ice. 

13 


11 


(JLOSSARY     OF     AKCTIC     T  K  li  M  S. 


Ice-ldt,  a  continued  margin  uf  ii-i',  wliitli  in  higli  northern  latitutics 

udhoroH  to  the  eoa.st  ubuvo  thu  ordinary  luvul  of  thu  Huu. 
Icehinj,  u  largo  floating  n»a«8  of  ico  dt!taclK'd  froni  u  glucicr. 
Ice-blin/c,  a  poculiar  appcaranuo  of  tbo  atniosplitTo  over  distant  ice. 
Icc-chml,  a  long  ehi.sel  for  cutting  holes  in  ico. 
L'l-facc,  tho  abutting  face  of  tlio  ice-belt. 
Ivc-fuut,  tho  Danish  uaiuo  for  tho  limited  ice-belt  of  the  more  southern 

COOfit. 

la'-hook,  a  .small  ice-anchor. 

Ice-raft,  ice,  whether  licld,  floe,  or  detached  belt,  transporting  foreign 

matter. 
Ice-table,  a  flat  surface  of  ice. 
Lanil-icr,  floes    or  fields  adhering  to  the  coast  or  ineludcd  between 

headlands. 
Lane  or  f'tid,  a  navigable  opening  in  tho  ico. 

Kij),  the  condition  of  a  vessel  pressed  upon  by  the  ice  on  both  sides 
0/(1  ire,  ice  of  more  than  a  season's  growth. 

l\ick,  a  largo  area  of  floating  ices  driven  togetlier  more  or  less  closely 
Pol ij Ilia,  a  Russian  term  for  an  open-water  space. 
liue-radiJij,  a  shoulder-belt  to  drag  by. 

Ti(h-Jio/< ,  a  well  suidv  in  the  ice  for  the  purpose  of  observing  tides. 
TrackiiKj,  towing  along  a  margin  of  ice. 
Water-ski/,  a  peculiar  appearance  of  the  sky  over  open  water. 
Youiiij  ice,  ice  formed  before  the  setting  in  of  winter;  recent  ico. 


leru  liititaiK'S 

ler. 
lihtaut  ice. 


moro  suiitlu'iii 


lortiii''  fori'luiJ 


ARCTIC   EXPLORATIONS. 


CIIAPTKU   I. 


lutled  bet  ween 


OnOANIZATION — PLAN    OF    Ol'KIlATIONS — COMPLEMENT — EQUIPMENT 

— ST.  John's. 


on  both  sides 
}  or  less  closely 

(■rviug  tides. 

water, 
receut  ice. 


In  the  month  of  December,  1852,  I  had  the  honor 
of  receiving  f^pecial  orders  from  the  Secretary  of  the 
Navy,  to  "conchict  an  ex[)edition  to  the  Arctic  weas  in 
search  of  Sir  John  Franklin." 

I  had  been  engaged,  under  Lieutenant  Do  Haven,  in 
the  Grinnell  Expedition,  which  sailed  from  the  United 
States  in  1850  on  the  same  errand;  and  I  had  occu- 
pied myself  for  some  months  after  our  return  in  ma- 
turing the  scheme  of  a  renewed  effort  to  rescue  the 
missing  party,  or  at  least  to  resolve  the  mystery  of  its 
fate.  Mr.  Grinnell,  with  a  liberality  altogether  cha- 
racteristic, had  placed  the  Advance,  in  which  I  sailed 
before,  at  my  disposal  for  the  cruise;  and  Mr.  Pea- 
body,  of  London,  the  generous  representative  of  many 
American  sympathies,  had  proffered  his  aid  largely 
toward  her  outfit.  The  Geographical  Society  of  New 
York,  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  the  American  Phi- 

15 


16 


ORGANIZATION. 


losopUical  Society,  —  I  iianio  them  in  the  order  in 
which  they  announced  their  contributions,  —  and  a 
number  of  scientific  associations  and  friends  of  science 
besides,  had  come  forward  to  help  me;  and  by  their 
aid  I  managed  to  secure  a  better  outfit  for  purposes 
of  observation  than  would  otherwise  have  been  pos- 
sible to  a  party  so  limited  in  numbers  and  absorbed 
in  other  objects. 

Ten  of  our  little  party  belonged  to  the  United 
States  Navy,  and  were  attached  to  my  command  by 
orders  from  the  Department;  the  others  were  shipped 
by  me  for  the  cruise,  and  a,t  salaries  entirely  dispro- 
portioned  to  their  services :  all  were  volunteers.  We 
did  not  sail  under  the  rules  that  govern  our  national 
ships;  but  we  had  our  ow^n  regulations,  w'ell  con- 
sidered and  announced  beforehand,  and  rigidly  adhered 
to  afterward  through  all  the  vicissitudes  of  the  expe- 
dition. These  included — first,  absolute  subordination 
to  the  officer  in  command  or  his  delegate;  second, 
abstinence  from  all  intoxicating  liquors,  except  when 
dispensed  by  special  order;  third,  the  habitual  disuse 
of  prof\ine  language.     We  had  no  other  laws. 

I  had  developed  our  plan  of  search  in  a  paper 
read  before  the  Geographical  Society.  It  was  based 
upon  the  probable  extension  of  the  land-masses  of 
Greenland  to  the  Far  North, — a  fact  at  that  time  not 
verified  hy  travel,  but  sustained  by  the  analogies  of 
physical  geography.  Greenland,  though  looked  upon 
as  a  congeries  of  islands  connected  by  interior  glaciers, 
was  still  to  be  regarded  as  a  peninsula  whose  forma- 


1'  L  A  N      OF      ()  I'K  K  A  T  I  O  X  S. 


I 


!  order  in 
s,  —  and  a 
of  science 
id  by  their 
r  purposes 
s  been  pos- 
d  absorbed 

lie  United 
mimand  by 
ere  shipped 
rely  dispro- 


iieers.       vVe 

lur  national 

,   well   con- 

lly  adhered 

f  the  expe- 

)ordination 

e ;    second, 

xcept  when 

tual  disuse 

s. 

in  a  paper 
was  based 
1-masscs  of 
at  time  not 
inalo«ries  of 
ooked  upon 
ior  glaciers, 
hose  forma- 


tion rccoLiuisi'd  the  saiiu'  general  hiws  as  other  penin- 
sulas having  a  soutliern  trend. 

From  the  aUernating  altitudes  of  its  mountain- 
ranges,  continued  without  depression  throughout  a 
meridional  line  of  nearly  eleven  hundred  miles.  [  in- 
ferred that  this  chain  nuist  extend  very  far  to  the 
north,  and  that  (rreenland  might  not  improbably  ap- 
proach nearer  the  Pole  than  any  otliei-  known  land. 

Relieving,  then,  in  such  an  exti'usion  ol"  this  penin- 
sula, and  feeling  that  the  setirch  for  Sir  John  Franklin 
would  be  best  pronujted  by  a  course  that  might  lead 
most  directly  to  the  open  sea  of  whi(!h  I  had  inferred 
the  existence,  and  that  the  approximation  of  the 
meridians  would  make  access  to  the  West  as  easy 
from  Xorthern  Greenland  as  from  Wellington  Channel, 
and  access  to  the  East  far  more  easy, —  feeling,  too. 
tlnit  the  highest  protruding  headland  would  l)e  mo>t 
likely  to  afford  some  traces  of  the  lost  party, —  1 
named,  as  the  inducements  in  favor  of  my  scheme, — 

1.  Terra  firma  as  the  basis  of  our  operations,  ob- 
viating the  capricious  character  of  ice-travel. 

2.  A  due  northern  line,  which,  throwing  aside  the 
inlluences  of  terrestrial  radiation,  would  lead  soonest 
to  the  open  sea,  should  such  exist. 

3.  The  benefit  of  the  fan-like  al)utmeiit  of  land,  on 
the  north  face  of  Greenland,  to  check  the  ice  in  the 
course  of  its  southern  v  e([uatorial  drift,  thus  o1)\iatim: 
the  great  draw1)ack  of  Parry  in  his  attem])ts  to  reach 
the  Pole  l)y  the  Spit/bergeu  Sea. 

4.  Animal  life  to  sustain  travelling  parties. 

Vol.  I.— -2 


18 


COM  1'  I.  K  M  K  N  T. 


•J.  Thu  co-Operation  of  tlio  l]s(|iiimaiix ;  sc'ttlcincnts 
ol'  tlu'se  people  having  been  lound  as  liigli  as  Whale 
Sound,  and  probably  extending  still  lartlier  along  the 
coast. 

We  were  to  pass  up  liallins  JJay  therelbre  to  its 
most  northern  attainable  point;  and  thence,  pressing 
on  toward  the  Pole  as  I'ar  as  boats  or  sledges  could 
carr\'  us,  examine  the  coast-lines  for  vestiiics  of  the 
lost  party. 

All  hands  counted,  we  were  seventeen  at  the  time 
of  sailing.  Another  joined  us  a  few  days  afterwai'd; 
so  that  the  party  under  my  connnand,  as  it  reached 
the  coast  of  Greenland,  consisted  oC 


IIenuy  Buoors,  First  Olliccr.      Isaac  1.   IIavk.s,  M.D.,  Surneuu. 


John  ^Vam,  AVii.sun 
.Jamks  .Mc(Jai{v. 

(JKOIUiH    lilJ.KY, 
WlM.IAM    MoilTON, 

Christian  Ohlskn, 
Henry  G(»odi'ei,i,ow 


AttiUST  S(».NTA(i,  AstroiiuiUL'i'. 

.\M(IS    IJONSAI.I,. 
(iK(lK(i|'.    ^>rK!Mli:NsnN, 

(iKdiMii;  W'iiu'I'm;, 

W  1 1.1,1  AM    (ioDFRKY. 
JiMIN     1)1, ARE, 

fIi;i'ii:i{S(tN    1)Ari;r, 

l*KTKK    SciHUKRT, 

Thomas  IIicrky. 


T'"'o  of  these.  Brooks  und  Morton,  had  been  m^^  asso- 
ciates in  the  first  ex])edition ;  gallant  and  trustworthy 
men,  both  of  them,  as  ever  shared  the  I'ortunes  or 
claimed  the  gratitude  of  a  conunaiider. 

The   Advance  had   been   thoroughlv   tried  in   manv 
encounters    witli    the    Arctic    ice.     She   was    carefulh 


"^ 


K  (i  U  1  r  M  K  N  T. 


I'J 


HettU'iiu'iits 
1  iis  Whale 
L"  aloHLi'  the 

'fore  to  its 
2c,  pressing' 
jdiies  could 
i<>es  of  the 

tit   the  time 

al'tei-NVJU'd  ; 

;  it   reached 


M.D.,  Surireuii. 
Astrouuiuor. 


ell  111}'  asse)- 

trustworthv 

ibrtuiies   or 

ed  ill   inaiiv 
us    earefullx 


insjteeted.  and  needed  very  little  to  iiiake  her  all  a 
seaman  could  wish.  She  was  a  hermaphrodite  brig  of 
one  hundred  and  foi'tv-foiir  tons,  intended  originalU' 
for  carrying  heavy  castings  from  an  iron-foundry,  hut 
strengthened  afterward  Avitli  great  skill  and  at  large 
exi)ense.  She  w^as  a  uood  sailer,  and  easily  manaiicd. 
We  had  live  boats;  one  of  them  a  metallic  life-boat, 
the  gift  of  the  maker,  Mr.  Francis. 

Our  e(piipment  was  simple.  It  consisted  of  little 
else  than  a  cpiantity  of  rough  boards,  to  serve  for 
housing  over  the  vessel  in  winter,  some  tents  of  India- 
rubber  and  canvas,  of  the  sini])lest  (k'Scri})tion.  ;ind 
sv'\(>ral  carebillv-l)uilt  sledues,  some  of  them  on  a 
model  furnished  me  by  the  kindness  of  the  British 
Admiraltw  others  of  m\  own  devising. 

Our  store  of  [)rovisions  was  chosen  with  little  regard 
to  luxury.  We  took  with  us  some  two  tliousaiul 
Dounds  of  well-made  pemmican.  a  [)arcel  of  IJordens 
meat-biscuit,  some  [)a('kages  of  an  exsiccated  })otat(j, 
resembling  Edwjirds's,  some  pickled  c;;b]jage,  and  a 
liberal  (piantity  of  American  dried  fruits  and  vege- 
tables; besides  these,  we  had  the  salt  beef  and  pork 
of  the  navy  ration,  hard  biscuit,  and  Hour.  A  very 
moderate  supply  of  li(piors,  with  the  ordinary  at  cefera.s 
of  an  Arctic  cruiser,  made  up  the  diet-list.  I  helped 
to  procure  some  fresh  j)rovisions  in  addition  before 
reaching  the  upper  coast  of  Greenland;  and  I  carried 
some  barrels  of  malt,  with  a  compact  ap[)aratus  for 
brewinu'. 

We   had   a    inodiu'ate   wardrobe   of  woollens,   a   full 


•f^T- 


20 


ST.     J  ()  II  X     S. 


suj)[)lv  of  kiiivi's.  iK'C'dlcs.  and  otluT  articles  lor  liartrr. 
a   large,  well-chosen   lihi'aiy,  and  a  valu;il)le  set  of  in 
strinnents  lor  seientillc  observations. 

We  left  New  York  on  the  .'JUth  of  May.  !S.");},  es- 
corted by  several  noble  steamers;  and.  passing  slowly 
on  to  the  Narrows  aniid  salutes  and  clu'ers  of  farewell, 
east  onr  brisx  oil'  Ironi  the  steani-tuu'  and  ])ut  to  sea. 

It  took  ns  eighteen  days  to  reach  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland. The  CJovernor.  Mr.  Hamilton,  a  brother 
of  the  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty,  received  ns  with  a 
hearty  En<:lish  welcome;  and  all  the  ollicials,  indeed 
all  the  inha1)itants,  vied  with  each  other  in  ellbrts  to 
advance  our  views.  I  purchased  here  a  stock  of  fresh 
beef,  which,  after  removing  the  bones  and  tendons,  we 
compressed  into  rolls  by  wra[)ping  it  closely  with  twine, 
according  to  the  nautical  process  of  marllinj,  and  hung 
it  ui)  in  the  riui-inir. 

After  two  days  we  left  this  thriving  and  hospitable 
city ;  and,  with  a  noble  team  of  Newfoundland  dogs  on 
board,  the  gift  of  Governor  Hamilton,  headed  our  brig 
for  the  coast  of  Greenland. 

Wo  reached  l^allin's  Bav  without  incident.  AVc 
took  dee[)-sea-sonndings  as  we  approached  its  axis, 
and  found  a  reliable  depth  of  nineteen  hundred  fa- 
thoms :  an  interestinu"  result,  as  it  shows  that  the 
ridge  which  is  known  to  extend  between  Ireland  and 
Newfoundland  in  the  bed  of  the  Atlantic  is  depressed 
as  it  passes  farther  to  the  north.  A  few  days  more 
tbund  us  ofV  the  coast  of  Greenland,  making  our  way 
toward  Fiskernaes. 


i 


■;  lor  liarti,'!'. 
o  set  ol"  ill 

y,  1S5:],  es- 
-siiiiz'  slowly 
ol"  la  re  well, 
t  to  sea. 
olm's.  New- 
1,   a  brother 
(1  us  with  II 
eials,  indeed 
ill  elVorts  to 
:ock  of  fresh 
tendons,  we 
•  with  twine, 
uj,  and  hung 


^..  ■ 


::<fe«^i 


fir 


"^ 


K  I  S  K  L  (!  N  A  E  S. 


CIlAPTEli   II. 


d  hospitable 

and  doiis  on 

ded  our  l)rig' 

ident.       Wo 
ed    its    axis, 
hundred  la- 
ws  that    the 
Ireland  and 
is  depressed 
Ivv  days  more 
ving  our  way 


FISKEUNAES THE     FISHERY MR.   EASSEN HANS     CRISTIAN 

EICHTEM'EES  —  Slli.lvERT(  »I'I'E\. 

We  entered  the  har1)or  of  Fiskeniaes  on  the  1st  of 
July,  amid  the  clamor  of  its  entire  population,  assem- 
bled oil  the  rocks  to  greet  us.  This  place  has  an  en- 
viable ivi)utation  for  climate  and  health.  Exce})t  per- 
haps I[olsteini)erg,  it  is  the  drvest  station  upon  tlu' 
coast;  and  the  s[)rings,  wnich  well  through  the  mosses. 
fre(|uentlv  remain  unfrozen  thromihout  the  vear."^ 

The  sites  of  the  dillerent  Greenland  colonies  seem 
to  have  been  chosen  with  relerence  to  their  trading 
resources.     Tbe  southei-n  posts  around  dulianshaab  and 


.J 


'UP 


22 


T  II  i;      V  1  S  II  F.  U  Y. 


Fredcric^^tahl  su|)[)ly  tlu'  Danish  market  with  the  vahied 
liirs  of  the  saddle-ltack  seal;  Sukkert()p[)en  and  IIol- 
steinluTg  with  reindeer-skins;  Disco  and  tlie  northi-ni 
districts  with  tlie  seal  and  other  oils.  The  little  settle- 
ment of  Fiskernaes  rejoices  in  its  codfish,  as  well  as 
the  other  staples  of  the  npi)er  coast.  Tt  is  sitnated  on 
Fishers  Fiord,  some  eight  miles  from  the  open  hay. 
and  is  approached  by  an  island-studded  channfd  of 
moderate  drauuht. 


OOMIAK,      OR      WOMEN'S      GOAT,      FISHING—  FISKERNAES 


We  saw  the  codfish  here  in  all  the  stages  of  prepara- 
tion for  the  tahle  and  the  market;  the  stockfish,  dried 
in  the  open  air,  without  salt;  crapefish,  salted  and 
pressed ;  fresh-fish,  a  Jic-^is  a  mm.  Juct  ii<h>^  as  salt  as  a 
Mediterranean  anchovy :  we  laid  in  supplies  of  all  of 
them.  The  exemption  of  Fiskernaes  from  the  con- 
tinued fogs,  and  its  free  exposure  to  the  winds  as  they 
draw^  up  the  fiord,  make  it  a  very  favorahle  place  for 
drying  cod.  The  backbone  is  cut  out,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  about  four  inches  near  the  tail;  the  I )ody  ex- 
panded and  simply  hung  upon  a  iVame  :    t!ie  head,  a 


M  K.     1.  A  S>  !•;  .V, 


23 


L  till'  valued 
n  and  Ilol- 

K'    llortlhTil 

little  settlc- 
,  as  well  as 
situated  on 
}  open  l)av. 
cliauuel    of 


N  A  E  S 


()('  pi'epava- 
■klisli.  dried 

salted   aud 

• 

as  salt  as  a 
ies  of  all  of 
)in  the  eou- 
:ds  as  they 
(le  plaee  I'ov 
I  the  exee[)- 
iie  body  ex- 
t!ie   head.,  a 


luxury  uegleeted  with  us,  is  carefully  dried  in  a  separate 

pi('C<'. 

Seal  aud  shark  oils  are  the  next  iu  importance  auioiiii 
the  staples  of  Fiskeruaes.'-^  The  spcr  or  hluhher  is  pur- 
chased fi'oiu  the  natives  with  the  usual  articles  of  ex- 
chau.ii'e,  generally  coflee  and  tobacco,  and  rudely  Irlnl 
oiif  hy  ex[)osure  in  vats  or  hot  ex[)ressi()n  in  iron 
hoilei's.  None  of  the  nicer  j)r()cesses  which  economy 
aud  despatch  have  introduced  at  St.  John's  seem  to 
have  reached  this  oiit-of-t!ie- way  coast.  Kven  the 
('()(l-]i\('rs  ai'e  ,<iiven  to  the  doiis,  or  thi'own  into  the 
li'enei'al  vat. 

We  found  -Mr.  Lassen,  the  su[)erintendinj^'  ollicial  of 
the  Daiiisli  Company,  a  heaily,  siuLiie-minded  man, 
fond  of  his  wife,  his  cliildriii.  and  his  [)ipe.  The  \isit 
of  our  hriu'  was,  of  coui'se,  an  incident  to  he  marked  in 
the  siin[iie  annals  of  his  colony;  and,  e\'en  bei'ore  1 
iiad  shown  him  mv  ollicial  letti-r  I'rom  the  Court  of 
Deiunai'k,  he  had  most  hospitably  [)rolfered  every  thinu 
for  our  acctmimodation.  We  became  his  uuests,  aiul 
interchanged  presents  with  him  before  our  departure; 
this  last  transaction,  enabling  me  to  say,  with  con- 
fidence, that  the  inner  fiords  produce  noble  salmon- 
trout,  and  that  Ihe  reindeer-tongue,  a  recognised  deli- 
ciicy  in  the  old  and  new  Arctic  continents,  is  justly 
••i[)preciated  at  Fiskernaes. 

Feeling  that  our  dogs  would  require  fresh  provisions, 
which  could  hardly  be  spared  from  our  supplies  on 
shipboard.  I  a\ailed  myself  of  Mr.  Lassen's  inlhieuco 
to  obtain   an    Esquimaux   hunter    for  our   i)arty.      lie 


•l!l 


'i^ 


T 


24 


II  A  X  S      C  R  I  S  T  I  A  X, 


recoiimic'iKlod  to  iir"  one  Iljins  Cristiaii,  ii  boy  of  niiio- 
tccii.  as  an  export  with  the  kayak  and  jaAclin  ;  and 
alU'i-  Hans  had  given  nie  a  toiudi  of  his  (juality  liy 
s[)eariiig  a  l)ird  on  the  wing,  I  en,ua<ied  him.  lie  was 
lilt.  ,L:o()d-natur('d,  and,  exe('[)t  nnder  tiie  exciteiiient'^ 
of  tlic  liunt,  as  .stoUd  and  uiumpresslhle  as  one  of  our 
own    IniUans.     lie  sti[)nhited   that,  in   aiUlition   to   his 


^ : 


P  O  H  1  K  A  I    r      OF      \l  !>•■  •=■ 


very  moderate  wa.ues,  I  shonhl  leave  a  couple  of  barrels 
of  1  tread  and  fifty-two  pounds  of  pork  with  his  mother; 
and  I  became  nHmificeut  in  his  eyes  when  I  added  the 
siift  of  a  rille  and  a  new  kayak.  Wo  found  him  very 
useful ;  our  dogs  required  his  services  as  a  caterer,  and 
our  own  table  was  more  than  once  dependent  on  his 
enei'iiies. 


Illll!> 


--'^ 


boy  of  nine- 
iiwlin  ;  and 
s  (juality  ]»v 
ini.  lie  was 
excitements 
s  one  of  our 
lition   to   iiis 


[)le  of  barrels 
1  his  mother; 
1  I  added  the 
md  him  verv 
b  caterer,  and 
ndent  on  his 


m 


Wli 


1 

I 


Li(  11  I  i;  N  I'  i;  1.6. 


25 


X(»  (Hif  can  know  so  well  as  an  Arctic  \ttva'^cr  tho 
value  of  I'orcsi-lit.  Mv  conscience  has  often  called  {'or 
the  I'xercise  of  it.  hnl  my  haltits  make  it  an  eiliiit.  1 
can  hardly  claim  to  l>e  prosident.  t'ither  \)\  im|»nlsc  or 
(•(hic.ition.       Vei.    lor   some   (»f   the   d( Ticieiu  i    onr 

outfit  1  ou'iht  not,  perhaps,  to  hold  myself  .  nsihle. 
Our  slock  of  frt'sh  meals  was  too  small,  ami  we  ha«l 
no  preserveil  vcLivtahles  :  hut  my  [uTsonal  means  weiv 
limited;  and  1  c'onld  not  press  more  sewrely  than  ii 
strict  necessity  exacleil  upon  the  niUjiiesiioiiin^L;  lihc- 
rality  of  my  IVieiids. 

While  we  wvw  heating  out  of  the  fiord  of  Fisker- 
iiaes.  I  had  an  o[)portunity  of  visiting  Ijichteiifels,  the 
ancient  seat  of  the  (jreenland  congregations,  and  one 
of  the  three  Moravian  si'ttlements.  1  had  read  nuudi 
iji'  the  history  of  its  founders;  and  it  was  with  feelings 
almost  of  devotion,  that  I  ilrew  near  the  scene  their 
lahors  had  consecrated. ^■"'' 

As  we  rowed  into  the  shadow  of  its  nx'k-emhaved 
cove,  every  thing  was  so  desolate  and  still,  that  we  might 
have  fancied  ourselves  outside  the  world  of  life;  even 
the  dogs — those  {jnerulous,  never-sleeping  sentinels  of 
thi'  rest  of  the  coast — gave  no  signal  of  onr  ai)[)roach. 
Presently,  a  sudden  turn  around  a  projecting  clilf 
hrought  into  view  a  (piaiiit  old  Silesian  mansion,  hris- 
tling  with  irregularly-disposed  chimneys,  its  hlack  over- 
hanging roof  stuflded  with  dormer  windows  and  crowned 
with  an  anti(pie  l)elfrv. 

We  were  met.  as  we  landed.  ]}y  a  couple  of  grave 
ancient  men   in  sable   jackets  and   (dose  velvet  skull- 


' 


■PTT^ 


26 


L  I  (•  II  T  !•:  X  V  i:  I,  s. 


caps,  siicli  as  Vandvko  or  Ivciiibnindt  liiiiisc'lf  lui.uht 
liavr  piiiiitod,  who  «^ave  us  a  ((iiirt  hut  kindly  welcome. 
All  iiisi(!c'  ol'  the  uiausiou-house — (he  luniiture.  the 
matron,  even  the  chikhvu — had  the  same  time-sohered 
look.     The  sanded  lk)or  was  dried  by  one  oi'  those  huue 


h 


"  O  H  ■■,  V   I  A  N       S  E  T  T  I.  r  M  r   N  1       (    f      L  .  C   H  I  E  N  F  L  t  b. 

white-tiled  stoves,  which  ha\'e  heen  known  for  uvnei'a- 
tions  in  the  north  of  Kui-()[K';  and  the  still-hacked 
chairs  were  e\idently  coe\al  with  the  first  davs  of  the 
settlement.  The  heavy-huilt  table  in  th(>  middk'  of 
the  room  was  soon  coxcred  with  its  simple  onerin<>'s  of 
hospitality;  and  we  sat  around  to  talk  of  the  hinds  we 
had  (M)me  from  and  the  chanuin^i;'  wonders  oC  the  times. 


,liili." 


s  u  K  ivK  KTo  r  ri:\. 


27 


nisi'ir  miiilit 
lly  welcome, 
rnituiv.    tlic 

hinc-solicrcd 
I'  those  liiiiic 


for  uviicra- 

still-hackcd 

lavs  of  the 

luiddK'  oi' 

ofiorintrs  of 

('  lands  wo 

tlio  times. 


We  learned  that  the  house  dated  haek  as  fur  as 
the  (lavs  of  Matthew  Staeh  ;  huilt,  no  doubt,  with  the 
beams  that  lloated  so  provideutiallv  to  the  siiore  some 
t\veiit}-ri\e  }ears  after  the  lirst  hiiidiuLi-  of  Egede ;  and 
tliat  it  liad  been  tin'  .iiome  of  the  bretliren  who  now 
greeted  us,  one  for  twenty-nine  and  the  other  twenty- 
seven  years.  The  "Congrejiation  Hall"  was  within 
till'  building,  cheerless  now  with  its  em[)ty  benches;  a 
cou[)le  of  French  horns,  all  that  1  could  associate  witii 
the  uladsome  i)ietvof  the  Moravians,  hunii' on  each  side 
the  altar.  Two  dwelling-rooms,  three  (diambers,  and 
a  kitclu'n,  all  under  the  same  roof,  nuule  up  the  one 
structure  of  Lichtenfels. 

Its  l;in(l-hearteil  inmates  were  not  without  intcd li- 
cence and  education.  In  s[>ite  of  the  formal  v{\\  of 
their  di'ess.  and  something  of  the  stillness  that  bidongs 
U)  a  j)rotracted  solitary  life,  it  was  im[)()ssible  not  to 
recognise,  in  their  demeanor  ;ind  coiu'se  of  thought, 
the  liberal  spirit  that  has  always  idiaractt'ri/ed  their 
church.  Two  of  their  "children,"  they  said,  had  ••gone 
to  Goif  last  year  with  the  scurvy;  3et  they  hesitated 
at  receiving  ti  scanty  supply  of  potatoes  as  a  present 
from  our  store. 

We  lingered  along  the  coast  for  the  next  nine  days, 
ballled  by  calms  and  light  adverse  winds;  and  it  was 
oidy  on  the  lOtli  of  July  that  we  reached  the  settle- 
ment of  Sukkertoppen. 

The  Sukkertop.  or  Sugar-loaf,  a  iKtted  landmark,  is  a 
wild  isolated  peak.  I'ising  some  •'!(H)()  feet  from  the  S(>a. 
The  liltle  colony  whicdi   nestles  at  its  base  occupies  a 


I 


% 


28 


s u  K  K  K  K  T ()  r ri:  X. 


rocky  gorge,  so  narrow  and  jjroki'n  that  a  stairway 
connects  the  detacliecl  groups  oi"  huts,  and  tiie  tide,  as 
it  rises,  converts  a  part  of  tlie  groundplot  into  a  tem- 
porary ishmd. 

Of  all  the  Danish  settlements  on  this  coast,  it  struck 
me  as  the  most  picturesque.  The  rugged  dills  seemed 
to  hlend  with  the  grotesque  structures  about  their  base. 
The  trim  red  and  white  painted  frame  mansion,  which, 
in  \ii1ue  of  its  green  blinds  and  Ihustalf,  asserted  the 


i, 


APl'i)04CH   TO   SUKKERTOPi^EN. 


S  t 


gul)ernatorial  dignity  at  Fiskernaes,  was  here  a  lowly, 
dingy  compound  of  tarred  rijof  and  heavy  gables.  The 
dwellings  of  the  natives,  the  natives  themselves,  and 
the  wild  packs  of  dogs  that  crowded  the  beach,  were  all 
in  keeping.  It  was  after  twelve  at  night  wdien  we  came 
into  port;  and  the  peculiar  light  of  the  Arctic  summer 
at  this  hour, — which  reminds  one  of  the  effect  of  an 
eclipse,  so  unlike  our  orthodox  twilight, — bathed  every 
thing  in  gray  but  the  northern  background — an  Alpine 
chain  standing  out  against  a  bla/ing  crimson  sky. 

Sukkertoppen  is  a  principal  depot  for  reindeer-skins; 


"f 


s  L'  iv  I-:  H  i;  TO  I'  r  i:  x. 


29 


L  a  stainvay 
I  the  tide,  as 
t  into  a  tein- 

>ast,  it  struck 
clin's  i-ieemed 
Lit  their  base. 
Hsiou,  which, 

asserted  the 


and  tlie  natives  wcw  at  this  season  engaged  in  their 
sumnier  hunt,  collecting  tiieni.  Four  thousand  luid 
ah'eady  i)een  sent  to  Denmark,  and  nioiv  were  on 
ii:i,nd.  I  bought  a  stock  of  superior  quahty  lor  lil'ty 
cents  a  piece.  These  I'urs  are  valuable  Ibi*  their 
liglitness  and  warmth.  They  Ibrm  the  ordinary  U[)per 
elotliinii"  ol'  })oth  sexes  I'^Hlie  seal  beinu'  used  omIv  lor 
pantaloons  and  I'or  waterproof  dresses.  I  purchased 
also  all  that  I  could  get  of  the  crimped  seal-skin  boots 
or  moccasins,  an  admirable  article  of  walking  gear, 
nnich  more  secure  against  the  wet  than  any  made  by 
sewinu'.  I  would  have  added  to  mv  stock  of  fish;  but 
the  cod  had  not  ^et  reached  this  part  of  the  coast,  and 
would  not  for  some  weel-:  % 

IJidtling  good-l)ve  to  the  governor,  whose  hospitality 
we  had  shared  liberally,  we  put  to  sea  on  Saturday,  the 
loth,  beating  to  the  northward  and  westward  in  tho 
teeth  of  a  heavv  ti'ale. 


lere  a  lowly, 
j;ables.  The 
inselves,  and 
ach,  were  all 
lien  we  came 
•ctic  summer 
effect  of  an 
bathed  every 
I — an  Alpine 
)n  sky. 
indeer-skinsj 


T 


CHArXKlt   III. 


i  i 


C(tA>ST    OF    OIIKENLAND .sWAKr      Ut  K LAST    DANISH    OUTl'OSiTtJ  — 

Mi:iAlI,M-;     1!AY  —  !N    Till:     1(  h      -HKAU.S  —  IJLlUiS  —  ANCUUU    TU    A 
HKK(  i M 1 1  IN  I(  i  UT    8U  NSIIIN  E. 

The  lower  and  middle  coast  of  Greeiiluiid  has  been 
visited  In-  so  many  voya,uers,  and  its  pcnnts  of  interest 
have  been  so  often  described,  that  I  neud  not  dwell 
ui)on  them.  From  the  time  we  left  Snkkerto[)[)en,  we 
had  the  nsual  delays  from  fo,L>s  and  adverse  currents, 
and  did  not  reaeli  the  neiiihborhood  of  Wilcox  Point, 
which  delines  Melville  Bay,  until  the  27th  of  July. 

On  the  l(»th  we  })assed  the  i)roniontorv  of  Swarte- 
huk.  and  were  welcomed  the  next  dav  at  Proven 
by  my  old  IV'end  ('hrintiansen.  the  superintendent, 
and  found  his  family  much  as  I  left  them  three 
years  before.  Frederick,  his  son,  had  married  a  native 
woman,  and  added  a  sunim<3r  tent,  a  half-breed  boy, 
and  a  Danish  riile  to  his  stock  of  valuables.  Mv 
former  ])atient.  Anna,  had  united  fortunes  with  a  fat- 
faced  Esquimaux,  and  was  the  mother  of  a  chubby 
little  uirl,  Madame  Christiansen,  who  counted  all  these 
and  so  many  others  as  her  hapjn-  progeny,  was  hearty 


iiilly 


^w 


S  W  A  V,  T  i:-li  L"  Iv. 


:U 


and  warm-licartiMl  as  vwv.  >\\i'  Ictl  tlic  household  in 
.si'wiiiLi'  HI)  luv  skins  into  various  serviceal'le  liarnicnts ; 
and  I  had  th"  satisfaction,  hcrorc  I  left,  of  co.iiplctinu 
ui\'  stock  ol"  I'lU's  lor  our  sk'd.u'c  parties. 

While  our  hriu'  passed,  half  sailin;^',  half  driftniij,'.  u[) 
till'   coast,  1  left    her   under    the   cliaruc  of  Mr.  Brooks. 


ji^sH^ 


ItiU    OLXrUfJT.S  — 
— ANCHOR    TO    A 


and  has  been 

its  of  hiterest 

L'd   not   dwell 

certo[)[)en.  we 

rse  currents, 

Vilcox  Point, 

of  July. 

y  of  Swarte- 

at    Proven 

xrintendent. 

them    three 

ried  a  native 

f-breed  Ijoy. 

uahles.      My 

with  a  fat- 

)f  a   chuhbv 

ted  all  these 

.  was  hearty 


bvV*RTt-HUK.  —  l;LACK      HtA:i. 


and  set  out  in  the  whale-boat  to  make  my  purchases  of 
doiis  among  the  natives.  Gathering  them  as  we  went 
along  from  the  dill'erent  settlements,  we  reached  Uper- 
navik,  the  resting-place  of  the  Grinnell  Expedition  in 
1801  after  its  winter  drift,  and  for  a  couple  of  da\s 
shared,  as  we  were  sure  to  do,  the  generous  hos[)itality 
of  Governor  Flaischer. 


irrw^ 


f 


32 


L  A  S  T      I)  A  X  1  S  11      ()  I    T  ros  T  S. 


'.■;|i' 

^  ■  si' 


'EM 


liiiii! 


Still  coaisting  alonu',  we'  passed  in  .succession  the 
Ks(|uiniaiix  settlement  of  Kiiigatok,  the  Kettle, — a 
iiiountaiu-top  so  named  IVom  the  resend)lances  of  its 
profile. — and  linally  Yotlik,  the  farthest  j)oint  of  colo- 
nization; heyond  which,  save  the  sparse  headlands  of 
the  charts,  the  coast  may  he  icgarded  as  nnknown, 
Tiien.  inclining  more  directly  toward  the  north,  we  ran 
close  to  the  Ballin  Islands, — clouiicd  \vith  ice  when  I 
saw  them  three  years  Ixdbre.  now  entirely  clear, — 
siiihted  the  landmark  which  is  known  as  the  Horse's 
Head,  and,  passing  the  Dnck  Islands,  Avhere  the  Ad- 
vance uronnded  in  1851,  l)ore  away  for  Wilcox  Point.''' 

Wo  stood  lazily  along  the  coast,  with  alternations  of 
perfect  calm  and  olf-shore  breezes,  generally  from  the 
sonth  or  east;  but  on  the  morning  of  the  2Tth  of  July, 
as  we  neared  the  entrance  of  Melville  Bay,  one  of  those 
heavy  ice-fogs,  which  I  have  described  in  ni}'  former 
narrative  as  characteristic  of  this  region,  settled  around 
us.  We  could  hardly  see  across  tiio  decks,  and  }et 
Avere  sensible  of  the  action  of  currents  carrying  us  we 
knew  not  \vhere.  By  the  time  the  sun  had  scattered 
the  mist,  Wilcox  Point  was  to  the  south  of  us ;  and  our 
little  briu'.  now  fairly  in  the  bav,  stood  a  fair  chance  of 
drifting  over  toward  the  Devil's  Tluuni),  wdiich  then 
bore  east  of  north.  The  l)ergs  which  infest  this  ivgion, 
and  Nvhich  have  earned  for  it  among  the  wdialers  the 
title  of  the  "Beru-y  Hole."  showed  themselves  all  around 
us:  we  had  come  in  among  them  in  the  fog. 

It  was  a-  whole  day's  work,  towing  with  both  boats; 
but  toward  eveirnm"  we  had  succeeded   in  crawling  off 


-M  i:  T.  V  I  L  L  K      15  A  Y 


33 


?cessi()n  the 
Kc'Uk', — a 
aiu'os  of  its 
oiiit  of  colo- 
icadlaiuls  ot" 
IS  niikiKmn. 
lortli.  wc  nui 

I  ice  wlion  I 
ivly  clear, — 
;  the  Horse's 
iiorc  tlio  Ad- 
iU'ox  Point.'" 
Iteriiations  of 
illv  IVom  the 
2Tth  of  July, 
,  one  of  those 

II  ni}'  former 

ettled  around 

cks,  and  yet 

rryini;'  us  we 

lad  scattered 

us  ;  and  our 
air  chance  of 

which  then 
<t  this  ivtiion, 

whalers  the 
'cs  all  around 

I  hoth  hoats; 
crawlin.iz'  off 


shore,  and  were  doubly  rewarded  for  our  laljor  with  a 
wind.  I  had  observed  with  surprise,  while  we  were 
lloating  near  the  coast,  that  the  land  ice  was  already 
broken  and  decayed ;  antl  I  was  aware,  from  what  I 
had  read,  as  well  as  what  I  had  learned  from  whalers 
and  observed  myself  of  the  peculiarities  of  this  navigiv 
tion,  that  the  in-shore  track  was  in  consequence  beset 
with  difficulty  and  delays.  I  made  up  my  mind  at 
once.  I  would  stand  to  the  westward  until  arrested  by 
the  pack,  and  endeavor  to  double  Melville  Bay  by  an 
outside  passage.  A  chronicle  of  this  transit,  condenseil 
from  my  log-book,  will  have  interest  for  navigators  : — 

'-July  28,  Thursday,  G  a.m.— Made  the  offsetting 
streams  of  the  pack,  and  bore  up  to  the  northward  and 
eastward;  heading  for  Cape  York  in  tolerably  free 
water. 

'•'July  29,  Friday,  9i  a.m. — Made  loose  ice,  and  very 
rotten ;  the  tables  nearly  destroyed,  and  much  broken 
by  wave  action  :  Avater-sky  to  the  northward.  Entered 
this  ice,  intending  to  work  to  the  northward  and  east- 
ward, above  or  about  Sabine  Islands,  in  search  of  the 
northeastern  land-ice.  The  breeze  fresliened  off  shore, 
breaking  up  and  sending  out  the  floes,  the  leads  rapidly 
closing.  Fearing  a  besetment,  I  determined  to  fasten 
to  an  iceberg;  and  after  eight  hours  of  very  heavy 
labor,  warping,  heaving,  and  planting  ice-anchors,  suc- 
ceeded in  effecting  it. 

"We  had  hardly  a  breathing  spell,  before  we  were 
startled  by  a  set  of  loud  crackling  sounds  above  us; 
and  small  fragments  of  ice  not  larger  than  a  walnut 

Vol.  I.— 3 


34 


I  N      T  II  K      I  ('  K V.  K  A  IJ  S. 


l)ogini  to  (lot  llu'  water  lik<'  the  first  drops  oi'  a  siim- 
mor  sliowor.  The  indications  were  too  plain  :  we  had 
l)arelv  time  to  east  oil'  bel'ore  the  lace  of  the  berg  fell 
in  ruins,  crashing  like  near  artillery. 


i'. 


lit  ■'.- 


,j     AN     I  •   (.  U  t  ^  o . 


"Our  position  in  the  mean  time  had  been  critical,  • 
gale  blowing  oil"  the  shore,  and  the  Hoes  (dosing  and 
scudding  rapidly.  We  lost  some  three  hundred  and 
aixty  fathoms  of  whale  line,  which  were  caught  in  the 
Hoes  and  had  to  be  cut  away  to  release  us  from  the 
drift.     It  was  a  hard  night  for  boatwork,  particularly 


I, 


>i  I 


"^ 


IN      T  II  K      1("  Iv 


H  K  U  G  S. 


35 


)s  of  a  siiin- 
liii :  wo  liiid 
uhe  berg  fell 


|en  critical,  ■ 
closing   and 

Hundred  and 
tiui2:lit  in  the 
Ills  from  the 
particularly 


with  tliose  of  the  party  wlio  were  taking  their  first 
lessons  in  lloe  navigation. 

"July  o(),  Saturday. — Again  moored  alongside  of  an 
iceberg.  The  wind  olf  shore,  but  hauling  to  the  south- 
ward, with  much  free  water. 

"12  M. — The  fog  too  dense  to  see  more  than  a 
(piarter  of  a  mile  ahead;  occasional  glimpses  through 
it  show  no  practicable  leads.  Land  to  the  northeast 
verv  ruui2;ed  :  I  do  not  reco<i;nise  its  marks.  Two  lively 
bears  seen  about  2  A.  M,  The  '  Red  Boat,'  with  Petersen 
and  Hayes,  got  one ;  I  took  one  of  the  quarter-boats, 
and  shot  the  other. 

"  Holding  on  for  clearer  weather. 

"July  oi,  Sunday. — Our  open  water  beginning  to 
fill  up  very  fast  with  loose  ice  from  the  south,  went 
around  the  edges^of  the  hd^e  in  my  gig,  to  hunt  for  a 
more  favorable  spot  ibr  the  brig ;  and,  ai'ter  live  hours' 
hard  heaving,  we  succeeded  in  changing  our  fasts  to 
another  berg,  quite  near  the  free  water.  In  our  pre- 
sent position,  the  first  change  nuist,  I  think,  liberate 
us.  In  one  hour  after  we  reached  it,  the  place  we  left 
was  consolidated  into  pack  We  now  lie  attached  to  a 
low  and  safe  iceberg,  only  two  miles  from  the  open  sea, 
which  is  rapidly  widening  toward  us  under  the  in- 
liuence  of  the  southerly  winds. 

"We  had  a  rough  time  in  w^orking  to  our  present 
quarters,  in  what  the  whalers  term  an  open  hole.  We 
drove  into  a  couple  of  bergs,  carried  away  our  jib-boom 
and  shrouds,  and  destroyed  one  of  our  quarter-boats. 

"August  1,  Monday. — Beset  thoroughly  with   drift- 


I  ■ 


CTT* 


36 


ANCllOU     TO     A     IJEllG. 


iug  ice,  sniall  rottcMi  lloc-pie'ces.  But  for  our  l)erg,  wc 
would  now  be  carried  to  the  south ;  as  it  is,  we  drift 
with  it  to  the  north  .'.ud  east. 

"2  A.  M. The  con'    .aed  pressure  against  our  berg  has 

be"-un  to  aflect  it;  and,  like  the  great  Hoe  all  around  us, 


!i*  : ' 


MELVILLE      BAY. 


it  has  taken  up  its  line  of  march  toward  the  south.  At 
the  risk  of  being  entangled,  I  ordered  a  light  line  to  be 
carried  out  to  a  much  larger  berg,  and,  after  four  hours' 
labor,  made  ftist  to  it  securely.  This  berg  is  a  moving 
breakwater,  and  of  gigantic  proportions :  it  keeps  its 
course  steadily  toward  the  north,  while  the  loose  ice 


MIDNIGHT     S  U  N  S  11 1  N  E. 


37 


II r  berg,  we 
is,  we  drift 


lur  ])erg  has 
[  around  us, 


drifts  !)}•  on  each  aide,  k'a\iiig  a  walvu  of  black  water 
lur  a  mile  beiiind  us. 

'•Our  [)ositi(jn  last  night,  \)y  midnight  altitude  oi  liie 
gave  us  70°  27';    tu-d:»v  at  noon,  with  a  more  re- 


sun 


J  o 


liable  Iiorizon,  we  made  70"  -u';  showing  that,  in  spite 
ofall  embarrassments,  we  still  move  to  the  north.  We 
are,  however,  nearer  than  I  could  wish  to  the  land, — a 
blank  wall  of  glacier. 

'•About  !(•  P.M.  the  immediate  danger  was  pastj  and, 
espyiug  a  lead  to  the  northeast,  we  got  under  weigh, 
and  pushed  over  in  spite  of  tlie  drifting  trash.  The 
nu'U  worked  with  a  will,  and  we  l)ored  through  the 
Hoes  in  excellent  style." 

On  our  road  we  were  favored  with  a  gorgeous  spec- 
tacle, which  hardly  any  excitement  of  peril  could  have 
made  us  overlook.  The  midnight  sun  came  out  over 
the  northern  crest  of  the  great  berg,  our  late  "fast 
friend,"  kindling  variously-colored  fires  on  every  part 
of  its  surface,  and  making  the  ice  around  us  one  great 
resplendency  of  gem  work,  blazing  carbuncles,  and  rubies 
and  molten  gold. 


e  south.  At 
:ht  line  to  be 
Y  four  hours' 
is  a  moving 
it  keeps  its 
he  loose  ico 


CllArTEK   IV. 

IJOUING  TUE  FLOES  —  SUCCESSFUL  PASSAGE  TlillOU(3H  .MELVILLE 
KAY  —  ICE  NAVIGATION — PASSAGE  OF  TUE  MiUDLK  I'ACK  —  THE 
NOUTll    WATER. 

Our  brig  wi  at  crunching  through  all  this  jewelry; 
and,  after  a  tortuous  progress  of  five  miles,  arrested 
here  and  there  by  tongues  which  re(|uired  the  saw  and 
ice-chisels,  litted  herself  neatly  between  two  Hoes.  Here 
she  rested  till  toward  morning,  when  the  leads  opened 
ag'iin,  and  I  was  able,  from  the  crow's-nest,  to  pick  our 
way  to  a  larger  pool  some  distance  ahead.  In  this  we 
beat  backward  and  forward,  like  China  fish  seeking 
an  outlet  from  a  glass  jar,  till  the  fog  caught  us  again ; 
and  so  the  day  ended. 

"August  3,  Wednesday. — The  day  did  not  promise 
well ;  but  as  the  wind  was  blowing  in  feeble  airs  from 
the  north-northwest,  I  thought  it  might  move  the  ice, 
and  sent  out  the  boats  for  a  tow.  But,  after  they  had 
had  a  couple  of  hours  of  unprofitable  work,  the  Ijreeze 
freshened,  and  the  floes  opened  enough  to  allow  us  to 
beat  through  them.     Every  thing  now  depended  upon 

practical  ice  knowledge ;    and,  as  I  was  not  willing  to 

as 


ku 

M 


T  11  U»»  i:  (i  II      M  !•:  I^  V  1  M-i;      II  A  V. 


;;u 


on     MKLVlIiLK 
a:  I'AOK. — Tin: 


his  jewelry; 
lies,  arrested 
the  saw  and 
)  Hoes.  Here 
leads  opened 
to  piek  our 
In  this  we 
iish  seeking 
cht  us  again ; 

not  promise 
jle  airs  iroin 
10 vc  the  iee, 
'ter  they  had 
k,  the  breeze 
allow  us  to 
pended  upon 
lot  willin":  to 


trust  any  one  else  in  selectiuir  tlie  K'inls  lor  our 
course,  1  liave  spnit  llie  wliole  iU\\  uitli  M«(Jiiry  at 
iiiast-liead, — a  soinewliat  coiilincd  iind  uiifavorahlt'  [»re- 
paratioii  Cor  ;i  journal  entry. 

"  I  :iin  much  (.'nconra^cd,  however;  this  olV-shore  wind 
is  l:ivorin;x  onr  es('a|K'.  The  ici'herifs  too  have  assisted 
ns  to  h(»ld  oni"  own  a.Lfainst  the  rapid  ))assa,L;e  ol"  the 
Id'okcn  ice  to  the  so\ith  ;  and  since  tiie  lai'L-vr  Hoes  have 
opcnt'd  into  leads,  we  have  nothin.n'  to  do  hut  to  follow 


THE       NORTH      WATER. 


them  cjirefully  and  boldly.  As  for  the  ice-necks,  and 
prongs,  and  rafts,  and  tongues,  the  capstan  and  wind- 
lass have  done  a  great  deal  to  work  us  through  them  ; 
but  a  great  dcid  more,  a  brave  headway  and  our  little 
hri'^'s  hard  head  of  oak. 

''Midnight. — We  are  clear  of  the  bay  and  its  myriads 
of  iliscouragements.  The  North  Water,  our  highway 
to  Smith's  Sound,  is  fairly  ahead. 

"It  is   only  eight  days   ago   that  we  made  Wilcox 


1 


Ill  Y  pm 


T 


If 


1'    t 


.*.ti 


"'  AW 


Ji. 


I) 


t  i  i' 


•10 


T  11  H  O  U  C;  II      M  K  L  V  1  L  L  K      B  A  Y. 


Point,  and  .seven  since  we  I'airly  left  the  inside  track  of 
the  whalers,  and  made  onr  push  lor  the  west.  I  did  so, 
not  without  full  consideration  of  the  chances.  Let  nie 
set  down  what  my  views  were  and  are." 

The  indentation  known  as  Melville  Bay  is  protected 
))y  its  northern  and  northeastern  coast  from  the  great 
ice  and  current  drifts  which  follow  the  axis  of  ]5aflin\s 
Bay.  The  interior  of  the  country  which  bounds  u})on 
it  is  the  seat  of  extensive  glaciers,  which  are  constantly 
shedding  off  icebergs  of  the  largest  dimensions.  The 
gn'ater  bulk  of  these  is  below  the  water-line,  and  the 
depth  to  which  they  sink  when  floating  subjects  them 
to  the  action  of  the  deeper  sea  currents,  while  their 
broad  surface  above  the  water  is  of  course  acted  on  by 
the  wind.  It  happens,  therefore,  that  they  are  found 
not  nnfrequently  moving  in  diflerent  directions  from 
the  floes  around  them,  and  preventing  them  for  a  time 
from  freezing  into  a  united  mass.  Still,  in  the  late 
winter,  when  the  cold  has  thoroughly  set  in,  Melville 
Bay  becomes  a  continuous  field  of  ice,  from  Cape  York 
to  the  Devil's  Thumb. 

On  the  return  of  milder  weather,  the  same  causes  re- 
new their  action;  and  that  portion  of  the  ice  which  is 
protected  from  the  outside  dril't,  and  entangled  among 
the  icebergs  that  crowd  the  bay,  remains  permanent 
long  after  that  which  is  outside  is  in  motion.  Step  by 
step,  as  the  year  advances,  its  outer  edge  breaks  of!';  }et 
its  inner  curve  frequently  remains  nnl)roken  through 
the  entire  sumirier.  This  is  the  "fast  ice"  of  the 
whalers,  so  important  to  their  progress  in  the  earlier 


|i!ii 


! 


.Jl 


ICE      N  A  V  I  r.  A  T  I  0  N. 


41 


ide  ti'iick  of 
t.  I  (lid  so, 
.'s.     Let  me 

is  protected 
u  the  great 
s  of  Bull  ill's 
)ouiids  upon 
.»  constantly 
sions.  The 
ine,  and  the 
hjeets  them 
while  their 
acted  on  l.)y 
y  are  found 
ctioiis  from 
II  for  a  time 
in  the  late 
in,  Melville 
Cape  York 

le  causes  re- 
ice  which  is 
;,led  among 
permanent 
11.  Step  by 
aks  ofl';  }et 
ivn  through 
ice"  of  the 
the  earlier 


'4 

I 


portions  of  the  season;  for,  howcAcr  it  may  be  en- 
croached upon  by  storms  or  currents,  they  can  gene- 
rail  v  lind  room  to  inick  their  vessels  along  its  solid 
margin ;  or  if  the  outside  ice,  yielding  to  oft-shore 
winds,  happens  to  recede,  the  interval  of  water  1)C- 
tween  the  fast  and  the  drift  allows  them  not  nnfre- 
quently  to  use  their  sails. 

It  is  therefore  one  of  the  whalers'  canons  of  naviga- 
tion, which  they  hold  to  most  rigidly,  to  foUow  the 
shore.  But  it  is  obvious  that  this  applies  only  to  the 
early  [jcriods  of  the  Arctic  season,  when  the  land  ice  of 
the  inner  bay  is  comparatively  unbroken,  as  in  May  or 
June,  or  part  of  July,  varying  of  course  with  the  cir- 
cumstances. Indeed,  the  bay  is  seldom  traversed  cx- 
ce[)t  ill  these  months,  the  northwest  fisheries  of  Pond's 
Bay,  and  the  rest,  ceasing  to  be  of  value  afterward. 
Later  in  the  summer,  the  inner  ice  breaks  up  into  large 
Hoes,  moving  with  wind  and  tide,  that  eml)arrass  the 
navigator,  misleading  him  into  the  notion  that  he  is 
attached  to  his  "  fast,"  when  in  reality  he  is  accom- 
panying the  movements  of  an  immense  floating  ice- 
field. 

I  have  l)een  surprised  sometimes  that  our  national 
ships  of  discovery  and  search  have  not  been  more 
generally  impressed  by  these  views.  Whether  the 
season  has  been  mild  or  severe,  the  ice  fast  and  solid, 
or  broken  and  in  drift,  they  have  followed  in  Auirust 
the  same  course  which  tiie  whalers  do  in  June,  run- 
ning their  vessels  into  the  curve  of  the  l>ay  in  search 
of  the  fast  ice  which  had  disa[)peared  a  month  l)efore, 


^^^. 


4 


"TTT* 


!  I 


;  I 


I 


'ii 


.ii  .'i 


"  U 


tit  1 

i  \ 

.  'i 


;;   ' 


111!; 

■  Ah' 


42 


r  A  S  S  A  C,  V.     ()  F     T  1 1  !■;      Mil)  I)  L  !•:      V  A  (•  K. 


and  iiivolviiiL^  tlionisflvt's  in  ;i  labyrinth  of  llocs.  It 
was  tlins  tlie  Advance  was  cani^lit  in  lior  second  sea- 
son, under  (,'iii)tain  I)e  Haven;  while  the  Prince  Albert, 
leaving  ns,  worked  a  successful  [)assaL;,e  to  the  west. 
80  too  the  North  Star,  in  1S4'J,  was  carried  to  the 
northward,  and  h()[)elessly  entanglid  there.  Indeed,  it 
is  the  connnon  story  of  the  disasters  and  delays  that 
we  read  of  in  the  iniviiAtition  of  these  rciiions. 

Now  I  lelt  sure,  from  the  known  openness  of  the 
season  of  1852  and  the  probable  mildness  of  the  fol- 
lowing wdnter,  that  we  could  scarcely  hope  to  make 
use  of  the  land  ice  for  tracking,  or  to  avail  ourselves 
of  leads  along  its  margin  by  canvas.  And  this  o[)inion 
was  conhrnied  by  the  broken  and  rotten  a])pearance 
of  the  Hoes  during  our  coastwise  drift  at  the  Duck 
Islands.  I  therefore  deserted  the  iriside  track  of  the 
whalers,  and  stood  to  the  westward,  until  we  made  the 
first  streams  of  the  middle  pack;  and  then,  skirting 
the  pack  to  the  northw^ard,  headed  in  slowly  for  the 
middle  portion  of  the  bay  above  Sabine  Islands.  My 
object  was  to  donjjle,  as  it  were,  the  loose  and  drifting 
ice  that  had  stood  in  my  way,  and,  reaching  Cape 
York,  as  nearly  as  might  be,  trust  for  the  remainder 
of  my  passage  to  warping  and  tracking  ])y  the  heavy 
floes.  We  succeeded,  not  wi  liont  some  laborious 
borin2:  and  serious  risks  of  entanglement  among  the 
broken  icefields.  But  we  managed,  in  every  instance, 
to  combat  this  last  form  of  diniculty  by  attaching  our 
vessel  to  large  icebergs,  which  enabled  us  to  hohl  our 
own,  however  swiftly  the  surface   (Iocs  were  pressing 


i 

I 

I 

i 


CK. 

of  lloc'S.  It 
second  sea- 
riiu'o  Albert, 
to  the  west, 
rried  to  the 
'.  Indeed,  it 
delays  that 
)ns. 

mess  oi*  the 
s  of  the  Ibl- 
)pe  to  make 
ail  ourselves 
this  o[)inion 
I  a])pearan('e 
at  the  Dnek 
track  of  the 
we  made  the 
len,  skirting 
owly  Tor  the 
slands.      My 
and  drifting 
aching  Cape 
e  remainder 
y  the  liejivy 
ne    laborious 
among  the 
ry  instance, 
ttaching  our 
s  to  hold  our 
'ere  pressing 


THE      NORIII      WATER, 


4:J 


by  us  to  the  south.  Four  days  of  this  scarcely  varied 
yet  exciting  navigation  brought  us  to  the  extended 
fields  of  the  pack,  and  a  fortunate  northwester  o[)ened 
a  passage  i'or  us  through  them.  We  are  now  in  the 
North  Water.  ^''^ 


-^' 

":?" 


l^-*^'?lBfr''*^c<^?^ 


1 1 

if 


I . 


§ 


m 


^T'm 


CHAPTER  V. 


CRIMSON  CLIFIV  OF  BEV^ERLEY  —  IIAKLUYT  AND  NORTH  U.MIJERL  \ND 
—  RED  isNOW  —  THE  GATES  OF  S.MlTU's  STRAITS  —  CAl'E  ALEXAN- 
DER—  CAIE  IIATIIERTON  —  FAREWELL  CAIRN — LIFE-BOAT  DEPOT 
ESQUIMAUX   RUINS   FOUND  —  GRAVES  —  FLAGSTAFF   POINT. 


If  n 


.1.. 
\    I 


. .  I 


My  diary  continues : — 

"  We  passed  the  '  Crimson  Cliffs'  of  Sir  John  Ross  in 
the  forenoon  of  August  5th.  The  patches  of  red  snow, 
from  which  they  derive  tlieir  name,  could  be  seen 
clearly  at  the  distance  of  ten  miles  from  the  coast.  It 
had  a  fine  deep  rose  hue,  not  at  all  like  the  brown 
stain  which  I  noticed  when  I  was  here  before.  All  the 
gorges  and  ravines  in  which  the  snows  had  lodged  were 
deeply  tinted  with  it.  I  had  no  difliculty  now  in  justi- 
fying the  somewhat  poetical  nomenclature  which  Sir 
John  Franklin  applied  to  this  locality ;  for  if  the  snowy 
surface  were  more  diffused,  as  it  is  no  doubt  earlier  in 
the  season,  crimson  would  be  the  prevailing  color. 

"  Late  at  night  we  passed  Conical  Rock,  the  most 
insulated  and  conspicuous  landmark  of  this  coast ;  and, 
still  later,  Wolstenholme  and  Saunders  Islands,  anc" 
Oomenak,  the  place  of  the  'North  Star's'  winter-quar- 

44 


I 


I 


'W 


OIITUUMBERLAND 
—  CAPE  ALEXAN- 
LIFE-15UAT  DEPOT 
STAFF   POINT. 


r  John  Ross  in 
?s  of  red  snow, 
could  be    seen 
the  coast.     It 
ike  the  brown 
elbre.     All  the 
ad  lodged  were 
y  now  in  justi- 
ure  which  Sir 
or  if  the  snowy 
)ubt  earlier  in 
ing  color, 
iock,  the  most 
his  coast;  and, 
s  Islands,  and 
b'  winter-quar- 


1 1  A  IC  L  U  V  T     A  X  I)     N  O  U  T  1 1  U  M  B  E  U  L  A  N  D. 


45 


tors: — an  admirable  day's  run  ;  and  so  ends  the  5tli  of 
Aujiiist.  We  are  standing  along,  with  studding-sails 
set,  and  open  water  before  us,  fast  nearing  our  scene 
of  laljor.  We  have  already  got  to  work  sewing  up 
l»hniket  Ijags  and  preparing  sledges  for  our  campaign- 
ings  on  the  ice." 

We  reached  Ilaklu}!  Island  hi  the  course  of  the  ne.ct 
(lay.     I  have  only  this  wood-cut  to  give  an  idea  of  its 


HA<LUYT       POINT,      F  r;  o  M      N  0  R  T  H  •  N  0  R  T  H  W  E  S  T. 

northern  face.  The  tall  spire,  probably  of  gneiss,  rises 
six  hundred  feet  above  the  water-level,  and  is  a  valuable 
landmark  for  very  many  miles  around.  We  were  des- 
tined to  become  familiar  with  it  before  leaving  this 
region.  Both  it  and  Northumberland,  to  the  southeast 
of  it,  afforded  studies  of  color  that  would  have  re- 
warded an  artist.  The  red  snow  was  diversified  with 
large  surfaces  of  beautifully-green  mosses  and  alope- 


,  I, 


if 


:'/ 1  !■ 


^ 


•IG 


T  IN':    r,  A  T  i:  s    ( >  k    s  m  i  r  i  i  >    s  r  u  ai  t  s. 


eiirus /''jind  wlioiv  the  siindstoiu'  \v;is  bare,  it  tluvw  in  ii 
rich  shiule  oi'  brown. 

The  eoiif^t  to  tiie  north  of  (Jape  Atholl  is  of  broken 
greenstoiu',  in  terraces.  Nearing  llakhiyt  Ishmd,  the 
truncated  and  pyamiihil  sliapes  of  these  rocks  may 
still  be  recognised  in  the  intei'ior;  but  the  coast  i)re- 
sents  a  coarse  red  sandstone,  ^vhich  continues  well 
characterized  as  far  as  Cape  Sauniarez.  The  nearly  ho- 
rizontal strata  of  the  sandstone  tiius  exhibitt'd  contrast 
conspicuously  with  the  snow  which  gathers  upon  their 
e\[)osi'(l  ledges.  Jn  fact,  the  parallelism  and  distinct- 
ness ol'  the  lines  of  white  and  black  would  have  dis- 
satisfied a  lo\-er  of  the  pictures([ue.  Porphyritic  rocks, 
however,  occasionally  broke  their  too  great  uniformity; 
occasionally,  too,  the  red  snow  showed  its  colors;  and 
:tt  intervals  of  very  few  miles — indeed,  wherever  the 
disrupteil  masses  offered  a  passage-way — glaciers  Avere 
sei'u  descending  toward  the  waters  edge.  All  the  back 
country  appeared  one  great  rolling  distance  of  glacier. 

"'August  (>,  Satunhiy. — (\i[)e  Alexander  and  ('a[)e 
Isalx'lhi,  the  hetuUands  of  Smith's  Sound,  are  now  in 
sight;  and,  in  addition  to  these  indications  of  our  pro- 
gress towai'd  the  held  of  search,  a  marked  swell  h;is 
set  in  after  a  short  blow  IVom  the  nortlnvard,  just  such 
as  might  be  looki'd  ibr  from  the  action  of  the  wind 
upon  an  open  water-si)ace  beyond. 

'•Whatever  it  mny  liiive  been  when  (^aptain  Tngle- 
field  saw  it  a  vear  au'o,  tin'  aspect  of  this  coast  is  now 
most  uninviting.'^^  As  we  look  far  ofl'  to  the  west,  the 
snow  comes  down  with  heavy  uniformitv  to  th(>  •  '.■     :  s 


'i 
:i 


A  1  T  S. 


C  A  r  E     A  L  i:  X  A  N  I)  i:  u. 


47 


,  it  threw  in  ii 

I  is  of  broken 
yt  Island,  the 
so  rocks  may 
the  coast  prc- 
oiitinucs  well 
riie  n(\irly  ho- 
ibited  contrast 
I'rs  upon  tlu'ir 

and  distinct- 
>uld  have  dis- 
)hyritic  rocks, 
it  nnitbrinitv ; 
s  colors ;  and 
wherever  the 
-glaciers  Avere 

All  the  l)ack 
ce  of  i»lacier. 
er  and  ('a[)e 
I,  are  now  in 
ns  of  our  pro- 
icd  swell  has 
ard.  just  such 

of  the  wind 

^iptaiu  Ingle- 
const  is  now 
th<'  W(*st,  the 
to  the  ■  '.■       s 


edge,  and  the  })atches  of  land  seem  as  rare  as  the  sum- 
mer's s  )w  on  the  hills  about  Sukkerto[)ptMi  and  Fisk- 
ernaes.  On  the  right  we  have  an  army  of  clills, 
whose  frowninu:  iirandeur  might  diuiiifv  the  entrance 
to  tJic   i)roudest  of  southern  seas.      1  should  say  they 


CAPE       ALCXANDE^. 


would  average  from  four  to  (ive  hundred  yards  in 
height,  with  some  of  their  j)riM'ii)ici^s  eight  hundrcMl  Cod 
at  a  single  st(M'p.  They  h..  /e  becMi  until  now  the  Arctic 
pillars  of  Hercules;  a'ld  they  look  down  on  us  ;is  if 
they  challenged  our  right  to  ])ass.  Kven  the  sailors  are 
impressed,  as  we  move  und(>r  their  dark  shadow.     One 


!| 


:( 


iiH''y 


?>fifJM 


48 


CAPE     HAT  UK  11  TON. 


of  the  oiFicors  said  to  our  look-out,  tliat  tho  <j;ulls  and 
eider  that  dot  the  water  about  us  were  as  enlivening  as 
the  white  sails  of  the  Meditx-rranean.  *Yes,  sir,'  he  re- 
joined, with  sincere  gravity;  'yes,  sir,  in  proportion  to 
their  size.'" 

"  August  7,  Sunday. — We  have  left  Cape  Alexander 


^ 


"'  ;!'i! 


! 


HARTSTESE      HAY-LEAVING      CAPE       ALEXANDER. 

to  the  south ;  and  Littleton  Island  is  before  us,  hiding 
Cape  Ilatherton,  the  latest  of  Captain  Inglefield's  posi- 
tively-determined headlands.  We  are  fairly  inside  of 
Smith's  Sound. 

"On  our  left  is  a  capacious  bay;  and  deep  in  its  north- 
eastern recesses  we  can  see  a  glacier  issuing  from  a  fiord." 


^ 


ho  gulls  and 
MilivcMiing  as 
?s,  sir,'  ho  rc- 
proportioii  to 

)e  Aloxnndor 


D  E  R. 


fore  us,  hiding 
iglofiold's  posi- 
lirly  inside  of 

jp  in  its  north- 
y  from  a  fiord." 


I 


LIFK-HOAT      DKl'oT. 


VJ 


AVc  know  this  hiiv  I'aiMiliarlv  afterward,  as  the  ro- 
sidoiuv  of  a  hodv  <>l"  Ks(iuimau.\  with  whom  wc  had 
nianv  associations;  l)tit  wo  little  (heaiiit  llieii  that  it 
woidd  hear  tiie  name  of  a  gallant  iVieiid.  who  found 
thoro  tiio  lirst  traces  of  our  escape.  A  small  cluster  of 
rocks,  hidden  at  times  h_v  tlu'  sea,  gave  e\  idem:o  of  thi' 
violent  tidal  action  ahout  tlioui. 

'"As  wo  noared  the  west  end  of  Littleton  Island, 
after  hreakfast  this  morning,  1  ascended  to  the  crow's- 
nest,  and  saw^  to  my  sorrow  the  ominous  hliidv  of  ice 
ahead. ^^^  The  wind  has  hoen  freshening  for  a  couple  of 
days  from  the  nortlnvard,  and  il  it  jontinuos  it  will 
bring  down  the  iloos  on  us. 

"iMy  mind  has  hoen  made  up  from  the  lirst  that  we 
are  to  force  our  way  to  the  north  as  far  as  the  elements 
will  let  us;  and  I  fool  the  ^  iiportai.ce  therefore  of 
securing  a  i)lace  of  retreat,  that  in  case  of  disaster  wo 
may  not  he  altogether  at  large.  Besides,  we  have  now 
reached  one  of  the  points,  at  which,  if  any  one  is  to 
follow  us,  he  might  look  for  some  trace  to  guide  him." 

I  determined  to  leave  a  cairn  on  Littleton  Island, 
and  U)  deposit  a  boat  with  a  supply  of  stores  in  some 
convenient  place  near  it.  One  of  our  whale-boats  had 
been  crushed  in  Melville  Bay,  and  Francis's  metallic 
life-boat  was  the  only  one  I  could  spare.  Its  length 
did  not  exceed  twenty  feet,  and  our  crew  of  twenty 
could  hardly  stow  themselves  in  it  with  even  a  few 
days'  rations ;  but  it  was  air-chandjorod  and  buoyant. 

Selecting  from  our  stock  of  [)royisions  and  field 
ecpiipago  such   portions  as  wo  ndght  by  good  luck  be 

Vol.  I.  — 1 


!  i 
ill 


I 

I 


f!       ,1 

w 

I 


II  :: 


I  i,j 


t 


!  I   •    t 

M,'     I 


,'i-^ 


M  .'  ' 


I 


I    !    I 


50 


E  S  y  U  I  M  A  U  X      li  U  I  N  S     F  O  U  X  D. 


able  to  dispense  with,  {iiul  mlding  with  rehRtiUit  lihc- 
rality  some  bhinkets  jiiid  Ji  I'cw  yards  of  Iiidia-rul)hei' 
cloth,  we  set  out  in  search  ol'  a  s[)ot  lor  our  lirst  d('[)ot. 
It  was  essential  that  it  should  he  u[)oii  the  nminiand  ; 
for  the  rapid  tides  might  so  wear  away  the  ice  as  to 
make  an  island  inaccessible  to  a  f()()t-j)arty ;  and  yet  it 
was  desirable  that,  while  secure  against  the  action  of 
sea  and  ice,  it  should  be  ap[)roachable  by  boats.  We 
found  such  a  place  after  some  pretty  cold  rowing.  It 
was  off  the  northeast  c<ipe  of  Littleton,  and  l)ore 
S.S.E.  fnmi  Cape  Ilatherton,  which  loomed  in  tlie  dis- 
tance above  the  fog.  Here  we  l)uried  our  life-ltoat 
with  her  little  cargo.  We  placed  along  her  gunwale 
the  heaviest  rocks  we  could  handle,  and,  fdling  up  the 
interstices  with  smaller  stones  and  sods  of  andromeda 
and  moss,  poured  sand  and  water  among  the  lasers. 
This,  frozen  at  once  into  a  solid  mass,  might  be 
hard  enough,  we  hoped,  to  resist  the  claws  of  the 
polar  bear. 

We  found  to  our  surprise  that  we  were  not  the  first 
human  beings  who  had  sought  a  shelter  in  this  deso- 
late spot.  A  few  ruined  walls  here  and  there  showed 
that  it  had  once  been  the  seat  of  a  rude  settlement ; 
and  in  the  little  knoll  which  we  clcjired  away  to  cover 
in  our  storehouse  of  valuables,  we  found  the  mortal 
remains  of  their  former  inhabitants. 

Nothing  can  be  imagined  more  sad  and  homeless 
than  these  memorials  of  extinct  life.  Hardly  a  ves- 
tige of  growth  was  traceable  on  the  bare  ice-rubbed 
rocks;  and  the  huts  resendjled  so  much   the  broken 


c 


I). 

■liK'taut  lil)('- 
Indiii-ruhbor 
ir  lii>t  (U'pol. 
(•  iniiinl;ni(l ; 
tlic  ice  as  to 
• ;  and   vet  it 

7  • 

:lie  action  of 
^  boats.     Wc 
I  rowing.     It 
n,    and    boi't' 
}d  in  tlio  dis- 
onr  liic-boat 
lier  <rnnwalo 
filling  np  the 
ol'  andronieda 
lii;  the  h\3ers. 
ss,   might   be 
chiws  of  the 

not  the  first 

in  this  deso- 

here  showed 

e  settlement; 

way  to  cover 

id  the  mortal 

and  homeless 
Hardly  a  ves- 
ire  ice-rubbed 
h   the  broken 


E  S  a  I   I  M  A  U  X     (i  K  A  V  E  S. 


51 


fragments  that  surrounded  them,  that  at  first  sight  it 
was  hard  to  distinguish  one  from  the  other.  Wah'us 
bones  hiy  about  in  all  directions,  showing  that  this 
animal  bad  furnished  the  staple  of  subsistence.  Tbere 
were  some  remains  too  of  the  fox  and  the  narwlud; 
hut  1  ll.und  no  siuiis  of  the  seal  or  reindeer. 


ESQUIMAUX       RUINED      HUTS— LIFE-nOAT      COVE. 

These  Esquimaux  have  no  mother  earth  to  receive 
their  dead ;  but  they  seat  them  as  in  the  attitude  of 
repose,  the  knees  drawn  close  to  the  Ijody,  and  luiclose 
them  in  a  sack  of  skins.  The  implements  of  the  living 
man  are  then  grouped  around  him;  they  are  covered 
with  a  rude  dome  of  stones,  and  a  cairn  is  piled  a])ove. 
This  simple  cenotaph  will  remain  intact  for  generation 
;i!'ter  generation.      The   Escpiimaux   never   disturb  a 


c 


rrave. 


From  one  of  the  graves  T  took  several  perforated 


'i    ; 


'     I 


52 


ESQUIMAUX     1  M  V  L  K  M  E  N  T  S. 


and  rudc'ly-rusliioiu'd  [)iecuH  of  walrus  ivory,  cvidt'iitly 
parts  ul'  sledgt!  and  lance  gear.  JJut  wood  must  have 
been  even  more  scarce  with  them  than  with  the 
natives  ol'  Ballin's    Hmx   nortii  of  tiie  Melville  "lacier. 


ChMi  S]>riir 


If 


i;  ! 


'i 


I'  '" 

!    I 


I     T'' 


Bone  Spear  I/fml. 


Si  iviny  InijJ  rill  Dili 


PbtUook. 

f^QUIMAUX       IMPLtMENTS,       FROM       GRAVES 

We  found,  for  instance,  a  child's  toy  s[)ear,  which, 
though  elaborately  ti})ped  with  ivory,  had  its  wooden 
liandle  pieced  out  of  four  separate  Ijits,  all  carefully 
})atched  and  bound  with  skin.  No  piece  was  more 
than  six  inches  in  length  or  half  an  inch  in  thickness. 


fi| 


vy,  evidt'ntly 
)d  must  have 
an  with  the 
Iville  ghieier. 


1/  Inijiliiiiii'l* 


V  E9. 


r 


spoiir,  which, 
had  its  wooden 
s,  all  carefully 
liece  was  more 
ch  in  thickness. 


I 


FL  A  (i  ST  A  F  K      I' (>  I  N  T. 


o;i 


W«'  loimd  other  traces  of  Ks(jiiimau\,  hotli  on  Lit- 
tk'ton  Ishmd  and  in  Shoal- Water  Cove,  near  it.  Tlu>y 
consisted  of  huts,  graves,  phices  of  deposit  l()r  meat, 
and  rocks  arranged  as  foxtra[)s.  These  were  evidently 
very  ;\ncient;  hut  they  were  so  well  preserved,  that  it 
uiis  ini[)ossihle  to  say^  how  long  they  had  heen  ahan- 
dont'd,  whether  lor  lll'ty  or  a  hundred  yea'N  hefore. 

Oiii"  stores  di'posited.  it  was  our  next  oflice  to  erect 
a  heacon  and  intrust  to  it  our  tidings.  We  chose  for 
this  purpose  the  Western  Cape  of  Littleton  Island, 
as  more  cons[)icuous  thim  Cape  Ilatherton  ;  Iniilt  our 
cairn;  wedged  a  stall  into  the  crevices  of  the  rocks; 
and.  spreading  the  Americ;in  Hag,  hailed  its  folds  with 
three  cheers  as  they  expanded  in  the  cold  nndnight 
hreey.e.  These  im[)ortant  duties  performed, — the  more 
lightly,  let  me  say,  for  this  little  llicker  of  enthusiasm, 
— \\L'  rejoined  the  hrig  early  in  the  morning  of  the 
7th,  11  nd  i()rced  on  again  toward  the  north,  beating 
against  wind  and  tide. 


^.'^**i.Vv  --'^Jf 


"'a.^j'^ 


lii 


iij  LiJi  i«im 


m: 


', ;  ' 


I  ;; 


iMt' 


CHAPTER   VI. 


CLOSING     WITH     TIIK      ICK  —  llKFlMiK      HAlllWR  —  DOns  —  WAI.lilS  — 

NAKWllAL 1('K-111I,I-S HKA(»)N-rAlUN A  N'CIK  iKKD    T(t    A     HKlKi 

—  ESQI'IMAIX      HUTS I'KTKR      I'OIU'K      HAY CATK      ('( (UM.l.l  I  S 

(JKINNKLL  —  SHALLOWS  —  A    (iALK  —  TIIK    UKrUKAN  T    l)(»(iS. 


II  ii 


I  ' 


"•Augusts,  Monday. — I  luul  seen  tlio  oiniiioiis  blink 
ahead  of  ns  from  tlio  Flagstalf  Point  of  Littleton  Island; 
and  before  twt)  hours  were  over,  we  elosed  with  iee  to 
the  westward.  It  was  in  the  form  of  a  pack,  very 
heav^■,  and  several  seasons  old;  ])ut  we  stood  on. 
ijoring  the  loose  stream-ice,  until  we  had  })assed  some 
forty  miles  beyond  Cape  Life-boat  C»)ve.  lle'.v  it  be- 
came impossible  to  force  our  way  farther;  and,  a  dense 
log  gatherinu'  round  us,  we  were  carried  helplessly  to 
the  eastward.  We  should  have  been  forced  upon  the 
Greenland  coast ;  but  an  eddy  close  in  shore  released 
us  for  a  few  moments  from  the  direct  pressure,  and  we 
were  fortunate  onouuh  to  i^et  out  a  whale-line  to  the 
rocks  and  w^arp  into  a  protecting  niche. 

"In  the  evening  I  ventured  out  again  with  the  change 
of  tide,  but  it  was  only  to  renew  a  profitless  conllict. 
The   Hood,  encountering  the  southward  movement  of 

04 


IS  —  WA  Mi  rs  — 

U:i)  T(»  A  liKlKi 
U'K  ("(IK.NKIJI  S 
<■['    IXXiS. 

luiiious  blink 
leton  I.'^luiul; 
1  with  ice  to 
I  pack,  vcrv 
,0  stood  on. 
passed  soiik' 
Hero  it  hv- 
aiid,  a  dense 
helplessly  to 
cod  npon  the 
lore  leleaseil 
sure,  and  we 
e-line  to  the 

:h  the  ehanjze 
tk'ss  eonlhet. 
novenient  of 


K  i;  1"  r  (i  i;    ii  a  n  mo  u. 


55 


the  Hoes,  drove  the.a  in  upon  the  sliore,  and  with  sueh 
rajtlchty  and  force  as  to  carry  the  sniaUer  heriis  along 
with  tiieui.  We  were  too  luipjU',  wheu,  al'ti'r  a  nianrul 
strunule  of  sotne  hours,  \vi'  fouiul  oui'selves  once  more 
out  of  their  ranjj,"e. 

•'Our  new  position  was  rather  nearer  to  the   south 
thau  the  one  we  had  left.      It  was  in  a  beautiful  cove. 


'***•%■ 


.^^0^ 


R  I   r  u  0  f       H  *  1)  11  O  R 


landlocked  iVoni  east  to  west,  and  accessible  oulv  from 
the  north.  Here  we  moored  oui-  vesstd  secur(d\-  b\ 
hawsers  to  the  rocks,  and  a  whale-liue  carried  out  to 
the  narrow  entrance.  At  MctJary's  sujixestiou,  I  called 
it  'Fou-  lidetf  but  we  afterward  remembered  it  more 
thaidvfidly  as  lJr.Fr(;i;  Ilviiiioii.  ""> 

••August  !).  Tuesday. — it    m.iy  be  noted   amou!;  our 
little  miseries  that   we   have   more   thau   lifivdous  on 


,r    "! 


d 


56 


IM  K;  S W  A  L  U  U  S \  A  K  W  II  A  L. 


W- 


1  r 


I'l 


i  , 


';    I 


t;,,:;' 

•  I   ,r 


board,  the  inajority  of  whom  might  rather  be  charac- 
terized as  'ravening  wolves.'  To  feed  this  family, 
upon  v.'hose  strength  our  progress  and  success  depend, 
is  really  a  dillicult  matter.  Tiie  absence  of  shore  or 
land  ice  to  the  south  in  Ballin's  liay  has  prevented 
our  rilles  from  contributing  any  material  aid  to  our 
commissariat.  Our  two  l)ears  histed  the  cormorants 
but  eight  days;  and  to  feed  them  upon  the  meagre 
allowance  of  two  i)ounds  of  raw  llesh  every  other  day 
is  an  almost  impossible  necessitv.  Only  vesterday 
they  were  ready  to  eat  the  cal)oose  up,  for  I  would 
not  give  them  pemmican.  Corn  meal  or  beans,  whi(;h 
Penny's  dogs  fed  on,  they  disdain  to  touch;  and  salt 
junk  would  kill  them. 

"Accordingly,  I  started  out  this  morning  to  hunt 
walrus,  with  which  the  Sound  is  teeming.  We  saw  at 
least  fifty  of  these  dusky  monsters,  and  approached 
many  gr(iU[)s  within  tv.ci'^y  paces.  But  our  r'lle-l)alls 
reverberated  from  t-.ir  hides  like  cork  pellets  from  a 
pop-gun  target,  and  we  could  not  get  within  harpoon 
distance  of  one.  Later  in  the  day,  however,  Ohlsen, 
climbing  a  neigliboring  hill  to  scan  tlie  horizon  and 
see  if  the  ice  had  slackened,  found  the  dead  carcass  of 
a  narwhal  or  sea-unicorn  :  a  happy  discovery,  which 
has  secured  for  us  at  least  six  hundred  pounds  of  good 
fetid  wholesome  llesh.  The  length  of  the  narwhal  was 
fourteen  feet,  and  his  process,  or  'horn,'  from  the  tip 
to  its  bony  encasement,  four  feet — hardly  half  the  size 
of  the  noble  specimen  1  presented  to  the  Academy  of 
Natural  Sciences  after  my  last  cruise.^"^  We  built  a  lire 


o[ 


•  be  charac- 

this  family, 

^css  depend, 

of  shore  or 

s  prevented 

aid  to  our 

eorniorants 

the  meagre 

y  other  day 

y  yesterday 

for  I  woidd 

eans,  which 

h  ;   and  salt 

ing  to  hunt 
We  saw  jit 
approached 
ur  r' lie-halls 
;llets  from  a 
lin  liar[)oon 
ver,  Oh  1  sen, 
lori/on  and 
d  carcass  of 
very,  which 
nds  of  good 
larwhal  was 
lom  the  tip 
lalf  the  size 
Academy  of 
'  huilt  a  lire 


I  c  E  -  II  I  L  L  s. 


57 


on  the  rocks,  and  melted  down  his  blubber:    he  will 
yield  readily  two  barrels  of  oil. 

"While  we  were  engawd  ii;ettin<:;  our  narwhal  on 
board,  the  wind  hauled  I'ound  to  the  southwest,  and 
the  ice  began  to  travel  back  ra[)idly  to  tlu;  north. 
This  looks  as  if  the  resistance  to  the  northward  was 
not  very  permanent:    there  must  be  either  great  areas 


'CEHILLS      on       'HE      COAST       ABOVE       REFUGE       KA^i!  OH 

of  relaxed  ice  or  oj/L'n-water  leads  aloug  the  sliore. 
IJut  the  choking  up  of  the  floes  on  our  eastern  side 
still  prevents  an  attempt  at  progress.  This  ice  is  tiie 
heaviest  I  have  seen;  and  its  accumulation  ois  the 
coast  produces  barricades,  more  like  bergs  tiian  hum- 
mocks. One  of  these  rose  perpendicularly  more  than 
sixty  feet.     Except  the  '  ice-hills'  of  Admiral  Wrangell, 


:  1 


I 


'Mi, 'I 
1    V\\. 


m'% 


rt'i, 


I 

IfM  I!' 

''il 


08 


BE  ACON-C  A  I  K.V. 


on  the  coast  of  Arctic  Asin,  iiothiuj.:  nf  icc-uphcavi'. 
has  ever  been  described  equal  to  tlii  «;'^^ 

"Still,  anxious  beyond  nieasuri'  U*  jjc^t  tiie  vessel  re- 
leased, I  forced  a  boat  through  the  dril't  to  a  point 
about  a  mile  north  of  us,  from  which  I  could  overlook 
the  sound.  There  was  nothing  to  be  seen  Ijut  a  melan- 
choly extent  of  impacted  drift,  stretching  north wnrd 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  I  erected  a  small  beacon- 
cairn  on  the  point;  and,  as  1  had  neither  paper,  pencil, 
nor  pennant,  I  burnt  a  K.  with  powder  on  the  rock, 
and  scratching  O.K.  with  a  pointed  bullet  on  my  cap- 
lining,  hoisted  it  as  the  representative  of  a  llag."'=' 

With  the  small  hours  of  Wednesdav  morning  came 
a  breeze  from  the  southwest,  which  was  followed  by 
sucli  an  apparent  relaxation  of  the  (i^es  at  the  slack- 
water  of  Hood-tide  that  1  resolved  to  attem[)t  mm  escajK' 
from  our  little  basin.  We  soon  warped  to  a  nai'i'ow 
cul-de-sac  between  the  main  pack  on  one  side  and  the 
rocks  on  the  other,  and  after  i\  little  trouble  made  our- 
selves fast  to  a  berg. 

There  was  ;•  >•  nail  indentati(m  ahead,  which  I  had 
noticed  on  my  ^kkiI  reconnoissance ;  and^,  as  the  breeze 
seemed  to  be  freshening,  I  thought  we  might  venture 
for  it.  But  the  Hoes  were  too  strong  for  us  :  our  eight- 
inch  hawser  parted  like  a  whip-cord.     There  was  no 


*  Ft  Wii.s  our  custom,  in  ()l)i'(lioiice  to  a  gt^noral  ohKt,  to  Itiiild  (•;iirii> 
and  leave  notices  at  every  oli;j,ihlo  point.  Owe  of  tla-si',  riulcly  marked, 
much  as  1  liave  deseribed  tlii.s  one,  was  tbuiid  by  Caiitaiii  llartstene, 
and,  strange  to  say,  was  the  only  direct  memorial  ot'  my  whereabouts 
communieated  IVoin  some  Imiidred  of  beae(»ns. 


I 


i 


til 


'V^l^i 


A  N  C  11  O  K  !■:  D      T  U      A      15  E  R  G. 


'J\ 


uo-uplieaval 

ic  vessel  re- 
to  a  point 
lid  overlook 
)iit  a  melan- 
;  north wiird 
null  beacon- 
aper,  pencil, 
>n  the  roek, 
on  my  cap- 
I  ilag.  ••• 
orning  came 
Ibllowed   l»_v 
it  the  slack- 
pt  im  escape 
to  a  narrow- 
side  and  the 
e  made  our- 

,vhicli  I  had 

s  the  breeze 

ti'ht  ventnrc 

:  onr  ei,i;ht- 

lere  was  no 

to  ])nil(l  caini^ 
rmlrlv  markctl. 
liiiii  Iliirtstcnc, 
iiy  wlu'ivaliuuts 


time  for  hesitation.  I  cnnvded  sail  and  bored  irJv)  th'* 
di'il't,  leavinL-  Mr.  Sontag  and  three  mcii  a])uii  the  ice: 
we  did  not  reclaim  them  till,  rd'ter  some  houis  ol"  adven- 
ture, we  brought  up  under  the  lee  of  a  grounded  berg. 

I  pass  without  notice  our  successive  eflbrts  to  work 
the  vessel  to  seaw^ard  through  the  Hoes.  Each  had  its 
somewhat  varied  incidents,  but  all  ended  in  failuri'  *  > 
make  progress.  We  found  ourselves  at  the  end  of  the 
dav's  struggles  close  to  the  same  imperfectly-defined 
headland  which  I  have  marked  on  the  chart  as  Cape 
Cornelius  Grinnell,  yet  separated  from  it  l)y  a  Ijarrier 
of  ice,  and  with  our  anchors  planted  in  a  l)erg. 

In  one  of  the;  attempts  which  I  made  with  my  boat 
to  di'tect  some  pathway  or  outlet  lor  the  brig,  I  came 
uiHin  a  long  rocky  ledge,  w^ith  a  sloping  terrace  on  its 
southern  face,  strangely  green  witii  sedges  and  p()p[)ies. 
I  had  leai'ued  to  refer  these  unusual  traces  of  vegeta- 
tion to  the  fertilizing  action  of  the  refuse  w  hicli  gathers 
about  the  lial>itations  of  men.  Yet  I  was  startled,  as  I 
walked  round  its  narrow  and  dreary  limits,  to  find  an 
Es(piiniaux  hut,  so  perfect  in  its  preservation  th  a 
few  hours'  labor  would  have  rendered  it  habitat)! 
Thei'e  were  bones  of  the  walrus,  fox,  and  seal,  scattered 
rouiid  it  in  small  quantities;  a  dead  dog  was  Ibund 
close  by,  with  the  llesli  still  on  his  bones;  and,  a  little 
farther  oft',  a  bear-skin  garment  that  retained  its  fur. 
In  fact,  for  a  deserted  homestead,  the  scene  had  so 
little  of  the  air  of  desolation  about  it  that  it  cheered 
my  good  fellows  percept i I )ly. 

The  scenery  beyond,  upon  the   main  shore,  might 


1 1 


•    III  11  "^» 


!'  'J 


i:si^  r  I  M  A  r  x    u  i  rs. 


1 


ilM 


t  '•  :  J  I  M  A  I'  V     H  u  r 


'ii' ;. 


;i 


:li 


h.'ivo  ijiiprt'sscd  iiuMi  wliosf  thdU^lits  wci'c  not  otlior- 
wisc  jibsorlKMl.  An  opi'niii.L!,'  through  the  dills  of  tr;i[) 
rock  (lisclosi'd  ;i  valh'V  sl<>[)i'  and  distant  roHiii'i  liills, — 
ill  line  ciMitrast  witli  the  l)lack  [)i'('cipic('S  in  iVont, — 
and  a  stream  that  caiiu'  tniuMiniz'  tliroiiiih  the  .uorgo  : 
\\v  could  liear  its  [)astoral  iiiusii;  oven  on  board  (lie 
brig,  when  the  iee  ehiiiior  iuterniitted. 

The  water  around  was  so  shoal  that  at  three  hun- 
dred vai'ds  Ironi  the  shore  we  liad  but  twelve-i'eet 
soundin:>s  at  low  tide.  (!reat  roelvs,  well  worn  and 
rounded,  that  must  Iwive  been  lloated  out  bv  the  iee  at 
SOUR  Ibnner  period,  rose  above  the  water  at  a  hall' 
mile's  distance,  and  the  inner  drift  ha<l  fastened  itself 
about  (liem  in  fantastic  shapes.  TIh'  beiys.  too.  were 
aground  well  out  to  seaward;  and  the  cape  ahead  was 
completely  packed   with    the   ic<'   which    they  hemmed 


liiili 


"**?!>*» 


V i: T  K  H    r ()  li  (•  I-:    n  \  v 


01 


IC    l)(»t    otluM"- 

(•lin's  of  lra[) 
Uiii-  hills,— 
s  in   I'l'Diit, — 

I  tlu'  ,i;c)rgo  : 

II  Ijoard   the 


in.  T\ii]  u])  as  wo  were  to  our  own  hcrg,  wo  wore  for 
tli(>  tiiKo  ill  s;iro*^y,  tliouuli  iimkiiii;'  no  j)ro,L>ross  ;  hut  to 
oast  looso  and  toar  out  into  tlio  paok  was  to  ri.sk  pro- 
gross  in  tlio  wronir  dirootioii. 

'•Au;:iist  12,  Friday. — Aftor  oarofid  oonsidcrMlion,  1 
have  (lotorniinod  to  try  for  a  lurthor  northing,  hy  fol- 


,11   '>i^;*^    ;■< 


ii' 


•  III 


PRFPARIHG      TO       rstER      TMF       SHALlOW'.-r>.  FOEVILLED      RFACM- 

K  O  4  C  r       BAY 


it  throo  hun- 

t   twolvo-loot 

11    worn   and 

Itv  tho  ioo  at 

■\-  ;it   a   lialt' 

(stoned  itsolt 

LTS.  too.  won- 

j)0  ahead  was 

hoy  heninHMJ 


lowing  tho  ooast-lino.  At  coi-tain  stages  ol"  tlio  tidos — 
gonorally  Iroin  tiiree-<(ua iters  Hood  to  ihe  oominonco- 
iiKMit  of  tho  ol»h — tho  ioo  ovidontly  rolaxos  ononuli  to 
givi'  a  pai'tiai  o[)oning  oloso  ah)ng  tlio  hunh  Tho 
strongtii  of  our  vossol  wo  hav(!  tostod  })rotty  tho- 
roughly: if  sjio  will  hear  tlio  rro(iuont  groundings  that 
wo  must  look  for,  I  am  ])orsuadod  wo  may  sook  those 
oponiuiis.  ;ni<l    warp    along    them    iVom    one    lum[)   of 


I  .  1 1- 


4 


1 
1 

\ 

1 

1 1      ■ 

'1 . ' 

'1 

i 

.tfl] 


"  id':': 


I 


\V2 


rWK     COKNEMI'S     G  R  I  N  N  E  L  L. 


•rroiindcMl  i(X'  to  anotbor.  Tlio  water  is  too  slioal  for 
ice  masses  to  tloat  in  that  arc  lioavv  onoudi  to  inako 
a  nip  vorv  flan<ri'roiis.  I  am  preparinn-  tlic  little  ])ri,i:' 
for  this  novel  navigation,  cleariiiu-  her  decks,  seem-iiiy 
things  l)elo\v  with  extra  lashings,  and  getting  out 
s})ars,  to  serve  in  ease  of  necessity  as  shores  to  keep 
her  on  an  even  keel. 


1 


CAPE   CORNELIU';   C.RiNNELL. 


f  I 


•'August  I.'),  Saturday. — As  long  as  we  rcniain  en- 
tangled in  the  wretched  shallows  of  this  higlit.  the  long 
precipitous  cape  ahead  may  prevent  the  noiih  wind 
from  clearing  us;  and  tlie  nearness  of  tlic  clilfs  will 
probably  give  us  scpialls  and  Haws.  Caicfnl  angidar 
distance's  taken  l;"tween  the  shore  and  the  chain  of 
bergs  to  s(s'uvard  show  that  these  latter  do  not  budge 
with  either  wind  or  tide.     It  looks  as  if  we  were   to 


;  L  I.. 


SHAM,()\V>  —  A     (iALK. 


03 


too  shoal  for 
oujili  to  iiiJike 
tlic  little  l)ri<r 
li'cks,  scciirinu' 
1  irotting  out 
horcs  to  kt'cp 


:'M  f" 


■  ■    /T-r^' 


we  rcniiun  «mi- 
I)i-iil.  lilt'  lonii' 
ic   uorlli    wlml 

the  cliirs  will 

'ai-criil   anuulav 

1   llic   clmiii  of 

do  not  I)ii(l,i:<' 

il'  we  were   to 


have  a  cliaiijio  of  weather.  Ts  it  worth  another  attein[it 
to  warp  out  and  see  if  we  cannot  douhle  these  hergs  to 
seaward?  1  iiave  no  great  time  to  s[)are:  the;  young 
ice  fonus  r:i|)idly  in  (|iiiet  spots  during  the  entire 
twcnly-luur  liours. 

'•August  li,  (Sunday. — The  change  of  weather  yester- 
day tempted  us  to  forsake  our  shelter  and  try  another 
tussle  with  the  ice.  We  met  it  as  soon  as  ym  ventured 
out;  and  the  day  closed  with  a  northerly  progr(>ss,  hy 
hard  wiir[)ing,  of  about  three-qnarters  of  a  mile.  The 
men  were  well  tire(l ;  hut  the  weather  looked  so 
threatening,  that  I  had  them  np  again  at  three  o'clock 
this  morning.  My  immediate  aiui  is  to  attai?i  a  low 
rockv  island  which  we  see  close  into  the  shore,  about 
a  mile  MJiead  of  us. 

'•These  low  shallows  are  evidently  caused  by  the 
rocks  Mild  l()reign  mat(>rials  discharged  from  the  gr(Mt 
valley,  it  is  impossible  to  pass  inside  of  them,  for  the 
huge  boulders  run  close  to  the  shore. ^'^' Yet  there  is  no 
such  thing  as  donbling  them  outside,  without  leaving 
the  hoMing-gronnd  of  the  coast  and  thrusting  our- 
selves into  the  drifting  chaos  of  the  pack.  If  we  can 
Old}'  reach  the  little  islet  ahead  of  us,  make  a  lee  t)f 
its  rocky  crests,  and  h(jld  on  there  until  the  winds  give 
us  ruirer  jii'ospects  ! 

'•.Midnight. — We  did  reach  it;  and  just  in  time.  At 
11".')0  P.M.  our  first  whale-line  was  made  fast  to  the 
rocks.  ']\'ii  minutes  later,  the  bree/e  freshened,  and 
so  directlv  in  our  teeth  that  wi'  could  not  have  gained 
oiir  iiiooriiig-grouiid.      It    is  blo\ving  a  gale   now,  and 


t! 


il  i 


'  1 


1 


\  ■ 


I 


m 


^ 


,'  t 


\\h 


1 1  li 


I  In 

■'il     '     ;    I 


"  I 


:i^ 


I  • 


li 


!l  U 


•   I*'  ,     .. 


! 

;,it 
f 

i.i::i! 

ill  I 

64 


THE      UECKEANT      DOGS. 


tbe  ice  drivinj;'  to  the  nortlnviird  before  it ;  hut  we 
can  rely  upon  our  hjiw.sers.  All  l)eliin(l  us  is  now 
solid  |/iu'k. 

"Au<ru.st  15,  Monday. — We  are  still  last,  and,  IVom 
the  Lii'indinL;'  of  the  ice  against  the  southern  eapi'.  the 
wind  is  d(»ul)tlessly  hlowinj:-  a  stron,!!'  gale  from  the 
southward.  Onee,  early  this  morning,  tlu  wind  shifted 
by  a  momentary  Haw,  and  eame  from  the  northward, 
throwing  our  brig  with  slack  hawser  upon  the  rocks. 
Though  she  bumped  heavily  she  started  nothing,  till 
we  got  out  a  stern-line  to  a  gi'ounded  iceberg. 

"'August  IC),  Tuesday. — Fast  still;  the  wind  dying 
out  and  the  ice  outside  closing  steadily.  And  here, 
for  all  I  can  see,  we  must  hang  on  for  the  winter,  un- 
less Providence  shall  send  a  snuirt  ice-shattering  breeze, 
to  open  a  road  for  us  to  the  northward. 

"More  bother  with  these  wretched  dogs!  worse  than 
a  street  of  Constantinople  emptied  upon  our  decks; 
the  unruly,  thieving,  wild-beast  pack  !  Not  a  bear's 
paw,  or  an  Escpiimaux  cranium,  or  basket  of  mosses, 
or  any  specimen  whatever,  can  leave  your  hands  for  a 
moment  without  their  making  a  rush  at  it,  and,  after 
a  yelping  scramble,  swallowing  it  at  a  gulp.  I  have 
seen  them  attempt  a  whole  feather  bed ;  and  here,  this 
verv  morning,  one  of  mv  Karsuk  brutes  has  eaten  ui) 
two  entire  l)irds-nests  which  I  had  just  before  gathered 
from  the  rocks;  feathers,  filth,  pebbles,  and  moss, — a 
peckful  at  the  least.  One  was  a  perfect  s})ecimen  of 
tiie  nest  of  the  tridactyl,  the  other  of  the  big  burgo- 
master. 


li.Mti 


T  II  i;     i:  DC  K  i;  a  n  t    ixx;  s. 


it  ;    l)ut  wc 
il    us   is   now 

.st,  and,  iVoin 
(M'u  oapi'.  tho 
Ilk'  iVoni  tlic 
wind  shiftt'tl 
ic  northward, 
on  the  rocks. 
I  nothing,  till 

r  wind  dyinj:- 

And  hcMV, 

he  winter,  un- 

ttering  breeze. 

s !  woi'se  than 
n   our   deeks ; 

Not  a  In'ars 
-Let  of  mosses, 
Lir  hands  for  a 
t  it,  and,  after 
^ulp.     I  have 

and  liere.  this 

lias  eaten  up 
K'fore  gathered 

and  moss, — a 
't  specimen  of 
the  big  burgo- 


« 


'•When  we  reacli  a  tloe.  or  berg,  or  t<'niporary  liar- 
hor.  tiiey  start  out  in  a  body,  neither  voicr  nor  lasli 
restraining  theiu,  and  scami)er  olf  like  a  drove  of  hogs 
in  !iu  Illinois  oak-opening.  Two  of  our  largest  left 
tlieuisehes  behind  at  F«)g  Inlet,  and  we  had  to  send 
olf  a  ho;it  party  to-day  to  their  rescue.  It  cost  a  i)ull 
through  ice  and  water  of  about  eight  miles  before  they 
t'ouud  the  recreants,  fat  and  saucy,  beside  the  cai*(!ass 
of  the  dead  narwhal.  After  more  than  an  hour  sp(Mit 
in  attempts  to  catch  them,  one  was  tied  and  brought 
on  boiii'd;  but  the  other  suicidal  sc^amp  had  to  be  lefi 
to  his  fite."*'" 


1  L  li  a  A  n  [  n     i  =.  nn. 


;  I 


''■■, 


1. 


' 


Vol,.  I  —3 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  B72-4503 


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1  i' 


I  ■ :! 


CHAPTER   VII. 

rilK    KRIC   ON    A  nERO OODSENI)   EKDCK IIOLDlNd   ON ADRII'T 

SCUDDING TOWKD    BY   A    IJEHO UNDER    THE    CMl'FS MI>1>1M;.S 

—  AGROUND  —  ICE   PRESSURE  —  AT    REST. 

"August  1G,  Tuesday. — The  ibrmation  of  the  youn.ir 
ice  seems  to  l)e  retarded  by  the  elouds  :  its  greatest 
nightly  freezing  has  been  three-(jiiarters  of  an  inch. 
But  I  have  no  doubt,  if  we  had  continued  till  now  in 
our  little  Refuge  Harbor,  the  winter  would  have  closed 
around  us,  without  a  single  resource  or  chance  for 
escape.  Where  we  are  now,  I  cannot  help  thinking 
our  embargo  must  be  temporary.  Ahead  of  us  to  the 
northeast  is  the  projecting  headland,  whicb  terminates 
the  long  shallow  curve  of  Bedevilled  Reach.  This 
serves   as   a  lee   to   the    northerly  drift,  and   forms  a 


bijiht  into  which  the  south  winds  force  the  ici 


The 


heavv  tloes  and  bergs  that  are  aground  outside  of  us 
have  encroa(;lied  upon  the  lighter  ice  of  the  reacli,  and 
choke  its  outlet  to  the  sea.  But  a  wind  ofl'  shore 
would  start  this  whole  pack,  and  leave  us  free.  Mean- 
whik'.  I'or  our  comfort,  a  strong  l)reeze   is   setting   in 

60 


T  II  K      K  l{  I  ('     ()  X      A      B  i:  i;  c. 


67 


Croin  the  sotitliwanl,  and   the   probahilitics  arc  that  it 
will  fivslion  to  a  gale. 

" August  17,  Wcdiiesdav. — Tliis  moniiiig  T  piislicd 
Kilt  into  the  drift,  with  the  usct'iil  litth'  spcciincii  of 
naval  architecture,  which  I  call  '  Kric  the  lied,'  l)ut 
wliich  the  crew  have  named,  less  poetically,  tlie  -lied 


N  —  ADRIFT  — 


f  the  young 
its  greatest 
of  an  inch, 
till  now  in 
nave  closed 
chance   lor 
p  thinking 
)l'  us  to  the 
terminates 
uch.      This 
nd   forms  a 
e  ice.     The 
utsid(^  of  us 
e  reach,  and 
d  oft'  shore 
ree.     Mean- 


setting  m 


% 


IHE       RED      nOAT       FORCtD      ON       AN       iCE^iCHG. 

lioat.'  We  succeeded  in  forcing  Iicr  on  to  one  of  the 
largest  bergs  of  the  chain  alica*!.  and  1  ('lind)ed  it,  in 
flic  hope  of  seeing  something  like  a  lead  outside,  which 
niii.ilit  he  reached  by  boring.  IJnt  there  was  nothing 
'»!'  the  sort.  The  ice  looked  as  if  [)crliaps  an  oil-shore 
wind  might  spread  it;    but,  save  a  lew  meagre  pools, 


M 


i 


>  i. 


"^ 


i|  i 


I  i  'Is 


ir  ■', 


I  (i  !  h  > 


I  I 


■II', 


ill'  'I, 

l!     ,(■    V 


»M' 


(;8 


(1  ()  Ds  ]•;  N  I)    1. 1;  DC  i;. 


which  IVoiii  our  UA'iy  euunanvc  looked  like  the  iiu'iv.st 
ink-spots  on  a  tahU'-clotli,  Jiot  a  mark  ol' water  eoiild  he 
seen.  1  eouUl  see  our  eastern  or  Greenhmd  eoast  ex- 
tending on,  headhmd  after  headhmd,  no  h-ss  than  live 
ol'  them  in  nund)er,  until  they  laded  into  the  niys- 
tx^rious  North.     Everv  thinu'  else,  lee! 

"Up  to  this  time  we  have  had  hut  two  reliahle  ob- 
serv^ations  to  determine  our  geographical  position  since 
entering  kSmith's  Sound.  These,  however,  were  care- 
fully made  on  shore  b}'  theodolite  and  artificial  hori- 
zons;  and,  if  our  live  chronometers,  rated  but  two 
weeks  ago  at  Upernavik,  are  io  be  depended  upon, 
there  can  be  no  corresjiondence  between  my  own  and 
the  Admiralty  charts  north  of  latitude  7S'^  18'.  Not 
only  do  I  remove  the  general  coast-line  some  two  de- 
grees in  longitude  to  the  eastward,  but  its  trend  is 
altered  sixtv  deurees  of  angular  measurement.  No 
landmarks  ol"  my  i)redecessor,  Captain  Inglelield,  ai-e 
recognisable.^'''^ 

''In  the  afterno(m  came  a  gale  Irom  the  southwai'd. 
We  had  some  rough  rubbing  from  the  floe-pieces,  with 
three  heavy  lia^vsers  out  to  the  rocks  of  our  little  ice- 
breaker; but  we  held  on.  Tow\ard  midnight,  our  six- 
inch  line,  the  smallest  of  the  three,  parted  ;  ])ut  the 
other  two  held  bravely.  Feeling  wduit  good  service 
this  island  has  done  us,  what  a  Godsend  it  w^as  to 
reach  her,  and  how  gallantly  her  broken  rocks  have 
protected  us  from  the  rolling  masses  of  ice  that  grind 
by  her,  we  have  agreed  to  remend)er  this  anchorage  as 
'Godsend  Ledu'e.' 


:  tho  iiuTest 
iter  could  be 
1(1  coast  ex- 
ss  lluin  five 
A)  the   iiiys- 

reliiiljle  ob- 
ositioii  since 
',  were  ciire- 
•tificial  liori- 
ted  l)ut  two 
ended  upon, 
my  own  and 
8^  18'.  Not 
onie  two  de- 
its  trend  is 
enient.  No 
isilelield,  are 

L^  southward, 
■pieces,  with 
ur  little  ice- 
uht.  our  six- 
cd  ;  ])ut  the 
U'ood  service 
id  it  was  to 
1  rocks  have 
\Q  that  grind 
anchorage  as 


II  0  I,  [)  I  \  (;    ON. 


69 


"The  walrus  arc  very  numerous,  approaching  within 
twenty  (eet  of  us,  shaking  their  grim  wet  fronts,  and 
mowing  with  their  tusks  the  sea-ri[)[)les. 

"August  19,  Friday. — The  sky  looks  sinister:  a  sort 
of"  scowl  overhangs  the  blink  under  the  great  brow  of 
clouds  to  the  southward.  The  dovekies  seem  to  dis- 
trust the  weather,  for  they  have  forsaken  the  channel; 
l)iit  the  walrus  curvet  around  us  in  crowds.  I  have 
always  heard  that  the  close  approach  to  land  of  these 
s})hiux-faced  monsters  portends  a  storm.  1  was  anxious 
to  find  a  better  shelter,  and  warped  yesterd;iy  well 
down  to  the  south  end  of  the  ledge;  but  1  could  not 
venture  into  the  tloes  outside,  without  risking  the  loss 
of  my  di'arly-earned  ground.  It  nuiy  prove  a  hard 
gale ;   but  we  nmst  wait  it  out  patiently. 

"August  20,  Saturday,  o^  p.m. — By  Saturday  morn- 
ing it  blew  a  perfect  hurricane.  We  had  seen  it  coming, 
and  wTre  ready  with  three  good  hawsers  out  ahead, 
and  all  things  snug  on  board. 

"Still  it  came  on  heavier  and  heavier,  and  the  ice 
bcLMU  to  drive  n^ore  wildly  than  I  thouiiht  I  had  ever 
seen  it.  I  had  just  *^^urned  in  to  w^arm  and  dry  myself 
during  a  nu)mentary  lull,  and  was  stretching  myself 
out  in  my  bunk,  when  I  heard  the  sharp  twanging 
8nap  of  a  cord.  Our  six-inch  hawser  had  parted,  and 
we  wx're  swinging  by  the  two  others ;  the  gale  roaring 
like  a  lion  to  the  southward. 

"Half  a  nunute  more,  and  'twang,  twang!'  came  a 
second  report.  I  knew  it  was  the  whale-line  by  the 
shrillness  of  the  rin<i;.     Our  noble  ten-inch  manilla  still 


^!'^ 


I' 


ni  i 


ii 


■i   1  "I 


!   I 


li 


'.  r 


11  !; 


•f  !' 


It 


i 


';,;i 


:■  !i;  '^ 


i:     .!'• 


70 


A  I)  It  I  FT. 


lield  on.  I  WHS  hurrying  my  last  sock  into  its  seal- 
skin hoot,  when  McGary  came  waddling  down  the 
eompiinion-hidders  : — 'Captain  Kane,  she,  won't  hold 
much  longer :  it's  blowing  the  devil  himself,  and  I  am 
afraid  to  surge.' 

"The  manilla  cable  was  proving  its  excellence  when 
I  reached  the  deck;    and  the  crew,  as  they  gathered 


3^J 


St*^" 


PARTING       HAWSERS      OFF      GODStND       LEDGE. 

round  me,  were  loud  in  its  praises.  We  could  hear  its 
deep  Eolian  chant,  sv>'elling  through  all  the  rattle  ol' 
the  running-gear  and  moaning  of  the  shrouds.  It  was 
the  death-song !  The  strands  gave  way,  with  the  noise 
of  a  shotted  gun  ;  and,  in  the  smoke  that  followed  their 
recoil,  we  were  dragged  out  by  the  wild  ice,  at  its  mercy- 


I 


,  i 


:  :i 


into  its  seul- 

iX   down    the 

won't   hold 

oir,  and  I  Jini 

ellence  when 
iiey  gathered 


^;/, 


coidd  hear  its 
the  rattle  oi' 
•ouds.  It  was 
with  the  noise 
followed  their 
e,  at  its  mercy 


■f 


Mil 

Hi' 


J    , 


■^ 


J 

1        1 

:l 

1 

1 

; 

; 

J 

t! 

1 

i 

'"^ 


K 

2 


r 


mx  \\\ 


f 

2 


«■ 


1'  % 


1 


IM 


1  I' 


1 


;         ■'  ili 


^i; 


i  ^.'!  in 


i '  B 1 


U.  I 


ll.l^i 


i  .  I 


I  '., 


if 


(i'i 


il'l 


h 


i.  I  ■)• 


1 


()  i;  i{    n  i:  sr    no  \v  i;  u    (;  o  n  i;. 


71 


1 


"Wo  stciidicMl  ;uh1  did  some  ju'lty  warpini::,  and  got 
tlic  hriu  M  uood  lied  in  llic  nisliiiii;'  drii't  ;  hut,  it  all 
caiiu'  to  uotliing.  We  tlicii  tried  to  heat,  hack  tliroii<2;li 
tlic  narrow  ice-clogged  water-way.  that  was  driving,  a 
(luartcr  of  a  mile  wide,  l)etween  the  shore  and  the 
pack.  It  cost  US  two  hours  ol'  hard  lal)or,  I  thought 
skiifuih' l)cstowod  ;  hut  at  the  end  of  that  time,  we  were 
at  Iciist  lonr  miles  oil',  opposite  the  great  valley  in  the 
centre  oi"  IJedevilled  Reach/""'^  Ahead  of  ns,  farther  to 
the  north,  we  could  see  the  strait  growing  still  nar- 
row(M*,  and  the  heavy  ice-tahles  grinding  uj).  and  (dog- 
2:ing  it  ])etween  tlie  shorcMdifl's  on  ouo  side  and  the 
ledge  on  the  oth'r.  There  was  hut  one  thing  left  lor 
„s. ; — to  keep  in  some  sort  the  comnumd  of  the  helm, 
hv  iioinir  freely  where  we  must  otherw'ise  he  di'iven. 
We  allowed  her  to  scud  under  a  reefed  foretopsail;  all 
hands  watching  the  en(>my.  as  we  closed,  in  silence. 

"At  seven  in  the  morning,  we  were  close  u[)on  the 
piling  masses.  We  dropped  our  heaviest  anchor  with 
the  desperate  hope  of  winding  the  brig;  but  there  was 
no  withstanding  the  ice-torrent  that  followed  us.  We 
had  only  time  to  fasten  a  spar  as  a  buoy  to  the  chain, 
and  let  her  slip.     So  went  our  best  bower ! 

"Down  we  went  upon  the  gale  again,  helplessly 
scraping  along  a  lee  of  ice  seldom  less  than  thirty  feet 
thick ;  one  lloe,  measured  by  a  line  as  we  tried  to 
faste  1  to  it,  more  than  forty.  I  had  seen  such  ice  only 
once  before,  and  never  in  such  rapid  motion.  One  up- 
turned mass  rose  above  our  gunwale,  smashing  in  our 
bulwarks,  and  depositing  half  a  ton  of  ice  in  a  lump 


ili'i 
''if 


*l 


i'i 


I   '  „!!  |i 


Id'    ■■  > 


>]]'m 


'!'M<; 


;,'  'i"i, 


72 


TowKi)    li  V    A    i;i;u(i. 


ii[)()n  our  (leeks.  Our  staiK'h  little  brig  bore  lierscjlf 
tlirouuli  all  this  wild  adventure  as  ii'  she  had  a 
eharnied  life. 

"  Hut  a  new  enemy  came  in  sight  ahead.  Directly  in 
our  way,  just  beyond  the  line  ol'  Hoe-ice  against  which 
we  were  alternately  sliding  and  thumping,  was  a  group 
of  bergs.  We  had  no  power  to  avoid  them;  and  the 
only  (question  was,  whether  we  were  to  be  dashed  in 
pieces  against  them,  or  whether  they  nught  not  oiler 
us  some  providential  nook  of  refuge  from  the  storni. 
But,  us  we  neared  them,  we  perceived  that  they  wer(» 
at  some  distance  from  the  tloe-edge,  and  separated  from 
it  by  an  interval  of  o[)en  water.  Our  hopes  rose,  as  the 
gale  drove  us  toward  this  passage,  and  into  it;  and  we 
were  ready  to  exult,  when,  from  some  unexplained 
cause, — })r()bably  an  eddy  of  the  wind  against  the  lofty 
ice-walls, — we  lost  our  headway.  Almost  at  the  same 
moment,  we  saw  that  the  bergs  were  not  at  rest ;  that 
with  a  momentum  of  their  own  they  were  bearing 
down  u[)on  the  other  ice,  and  that  it  must  be  our  fate 
to  be  crushed  between  the  tw^o. 

"Just  then,  a  broad  sconce-piece  or  low  water-washed 
berg  came  driving  uj)  from  the  southward.  The  thought 
flashed  upon  me  of  one  of  our  escapes  in  Melville  Bay ; 
and  as  the  sconce  moved  ra[)idly  close  alongside  us, 
McGary  managed  to  plant  an  anchor  on  its  slope  and 
hold  on  to  it  by  a  whale-line.  It  Avas  an  anxious  mo- 
ment. Our  nojjle  tow-horse,  whiter  than  the  pale  horse 
that  seemed  to  be  pursuing  us,  hauled  us  bravely  on ; 
the  spray  dashing  over  his  windward  Hanks,  and  his 


f 


'I:  1- 


)()re  hcM'.solf 
»he   had    a 

Diri'ctly  in 
aiiist  Aviiicli 
NViiH  a  j;i'()ii[) 
in  ;  Miul  tlic 
'  (lasliL'd  ill 
lit  not  oilor 

tliu  stonn. 
t  they  wen* 
►arated  Ironi 

rose,  as  the 

it ;  and  we 
inexphiiued 
ist  the  h)t'ty 
at  the  same 
t  rest;  that 
ere   bearing 

be  our  late 

ater-washed 
rhe  thought 
Iville  Bay; 
longside  us, 
s  slope  and 
inxious  mo- 
e  pale  horse 
Ijravely  on ; 
iks,  and  his 


1 


I  s  i»  i;  \i    T  11 1:    ('  1- 1  F  I's. 


73 


Ibri'hi'ad  [)l()iighing  up  the  U'sser  ice  as  if  in  scorn. 
'IMu'  hergs  encroached  u[)(»n  us  as  we  advanced  :  our 
chaiiiH'l  narrowed  to  a  width  or[)erha[)s  ibrty  feet:  we 
braced  the  yards  to  clear  the  in4)ending  ice-walls. 

".  .  .  .  We  passed  clear;  but  it  was  a  close  shave, — 
so  close  that  our  port  quarter-boat  would  have  been 
ci'ushed  ir  we  had  uot  taken  it  in  from  the  davits, — 
and  found  oursidves  under  the  lee  of  a,  biTg,  in  a 
coiu[)ai'ativ('l\'  open  lead.  Never  did  lieart-tried  men 
acknowledge  with  more  gratitude  their  merciful  de- 
li scraiice  from  a  wretched  death.  .  .  . 

••Tiie  day  had  already  its  full  share  of  trials;  but 
there  were  more  to  come.  A  ilaw  drove  us  from  our 
shelter,  and  the  gale  soon  carried  us  beyond  the  end 
(»f  the  lead.  We  were  again  in  the  ice,  sometimes 
escaping  its  onset  by  wari-ing,  sometimes  forced  to  rely 
on  the  strength  and  buoyancy  of  the  brig  to  stand  its 
pressure,  sometimes  scudding  wildly  through  the  hall- 
open  drift.  Our  jib-boom  was  snapped  olf  in  the  cap; 
we  carried  away  our  barricade 
stanchions,  and  were  forced  to 
leave  our  little  Eric,  with  three 
brave  fellows  and  their  warps, 
out  upon  the  Hoes  behind  us. 

*''A  little  pool  of  open  water 
received  us  at  last.  It  was  just 
beyond  a  lofty  cape  that  rose  up 
like  a  wall,  and  under  an  iceberg 
that  anchored  itself  between  us 
and    .ill.    gale.     And  here,  close 


! 


i  I 


'  I 


' 


I    \  0  t   u       I   i<  E       C  L  I  f  F  S. 


i 


'  m 


\k 


il     i 


I  i 


■  I 


fi, 


,1 

\p:i 

t  !'■ 

■■:\ 

1  " '  1 

iill 


^''lHi«''^ 


niM 


■I  3 


il-.''^ 


'  .!| 


li' 


.,'j;!'''ii-' 

^';I1: 


'i!'  .Ill 


<  I  T  II  V.      N  I  1'  I'  I  N  (;  s. 

under  llic  frown iiit;-  sliorc  of  Greenland,  Icn  miles 
lu'arer  (he  I'ole  lliiin  our  liol(lin_M,-ii;roun(l  of  (lie  morn- 
ing, (he  men  hiiv(>  (ui'ned  in  (o  resl. 

"I  was  afraid  to  join  (hem;  ("or  (he  t;ale  was  un- 
hi'oken,  and  (he  does  ke[)t  |)i'essin,i;  heavily  npnii  our 
ber^', — a,(  «)ne  (ime  so  heaxily  as  (o  swav  i(  on  i(s  ver- 
(ieal  jixis  iowjird  (he  shore,  and  make  i(s  [)inna{'le 
overhaul!;  our  vessel.  My  poor  fellows  had  but  a,  [)re- 
carious  slee[)  befori'  our  little  harbor  was  broken  up. 
They  hardly  reiu'hed  (he  deck,  when  we  wei'e  driven 
aslern,  our  i  udder  splintered,  and  [\n'.  pindes  (orn 
from  (heii"  bol(in!i,s. 

"Now  b(\!4an  (he  nip[)ings.  The  I'lrst  shock  (ook  us 
on  our  port-ipiarter;  (he  brijj;'  bearinsj;  i(  well,  and.  af(er 
a  m()men( of  (he  old-fashioniMl  suspense,  rising'  by  jerks 
handsomely.  'I'he  ne.\(  was  from  a  vetcM'an  (loo, 
(oi)i2;ued  and  honeveoud)ed,  but  lloalinj;"  in  a  single 
labli^  o\'er  (wenly  feel  in  (hiekness.  Of  course,  no 
wood  or  ii'on  could  sland  (his;  but  (he  shoreward  face 
of  our  iceberg'  happened  (o  pr(\sen(.  an  inclined  j)la,ne, 
d(\si'eudin.u'  (l(H'p  inio  (he  water;  and  u[)  this  the  bri^" 
was  driven,  as  if  some  ^reat  steam  screw-[)ower  was 
forciiiii'  her  iulo  a,  tiry  dock. 

"At  one  (ime  I  e.\p(U'(ed  to  see  her  carried  bodily 
u[)  its  lace  and  (und)led  over  on  her  sidc\  Hut  one  of 
those!  m\s(erious  rela\a(ions,  which  1  havc^  elsewhere 
called  the  })ulst's  of  (he  ice,  l(>"'ered  us  (piid;  gradually 
down  again  into  (lie  rubbish,  and  w<'  wci'e  'breed  ou( 
of  the  line  of  [)ressure  toward  (he  shore.  Here  we 
succi'ed«"d    in   carrying   out  a  warp,  aiul    making   fas(. 


((Ml      Illilt'S 

the  iiioni- 

\v  WMS  mi- 
y  iijMin  our 

on  its  vor- 
Is   pimi;u'k' 

but  11  [)iv- 
brokeu  up. 
a'vc  (IrivcMi 
iutlcs    lorn 

jck  look  us 

1,  juuk  j»rtcr 

ujj;  by  jcM'ks 

'lenin    lloo, 

u    a   .sini^lo 

course,  no 

toward  laco 

ucmI  i)1;uu', 

lis  the  brij:; 

)o\v(.'r  was 

"kmI  bodily 
But  oni'  of 
olsowhiMV 
gradually 
ibrccd  out 
Here  we 
akiuii"   fast. 


^ 


T  II  V.      15  li  1  (^      A  C  KO  r  N  I). 


7r. 


Wc  ;i'r()Uii(k'<l  as  tlic  ti(K'  IMl  ;  and  would  luivc  licolcd 
over  to  seaward,  but  for  a,  mass  ol"  dctaelied  laud-ic.' 
lliat  u'l'ouudcMl  alou,i;sidi'  ol"  us,  and,  altliouub  it  stove 
our  buhsai'ks  as  we  I'olled  over  it,  shored  us  u|)." 

I  could  hardly  izet  to  uiy  bu  .,  as  1  went  down 
into  our  littered  t'abiu  on  the  Sunday  niorniiuji;  after 
our  hai'd-workini:'   vitzil  of  thirt\-si\    bout's.      I>aus  of 


S  II  O  It  L  U      U  l>. 


elothinj:;,  food,  txMits,  india-rubber  l)laid\ets,  and  the 
hundred  little  personal  matters  which  every  man  likes 
to  save  in  a  time  of  trouble,  were  scattered  around  in 
j)laces  wdu're  the  owners  thought  tlu^v  mit^ht  have 
them  at  hand.  The  i)emmican  had  been  on  deck,  the 
boats  e(pii|)ped,  ami  eviM'y  thint:;  of  real  im|)ortanco 
ready  for  a  march,  many  hours  befon* 

Duriuii;  the   whole  of  the  sceiu's  1  have  been  trying 


i\ 


•  'I 


>l        1 


■ 


'',:!f  ^ii 


I 


!!'!!    A 


ftii|:';ii!l 


l-^-l 


in  :• 


I 

; 
<i   < 

r  ■; 
1! 

I 

' '. 
1  ' 
r, 

;'l 
id 

1 
• 

i 

t 

i  1 

11 ;; 

li' 

,  '1 

>  1 

U 

1      < 

i 

70 


ICE      i'  II  K  S  S  U  K  K. 


to  deycribe,  I  could  not  help  being  struck  by  the  com- 
posed and  manly  demeanor  of  my  comrades.  The  tur- 
moil of  ice  under  a  heavy  sea  often  conveys  the  im- 
pression of  danger  when  the  reality  is  absent ;  but  in 
this  fearful  passage,  the  parting  of  our  Iniwsers,  the 
loss  of  our  anchors,  the  abrupt  crushing  of  our  htoven 
bulwarks,  and  the  actual  deposit  of  ice  upon  our  decks, 
would  have  tried  the  nerves  of  the  most  experienced 
icemen.  All — ollicers  and  men — worked  alike.  Upon 
each  occasion  of  collision  with  the  ice  which  formed 
our  lee-coast,  efforts  were  made  to  carry  out  lines ; 
and  some  narrow  escapes  were  incurred,  by  the  zeal  of 
t'.ic  parties  leading  them  into  positions  of  danger.  Mr. 
Bonsall  avoided  being  crushed  by  leaping  to  a  float- 
ing fragment;  and  no  less  than  four  of  our  men  at 
one  time  were  carried  down  by  the  drift,  and  could 
only  be  recovered  by  a  relief  party  after  the  gale  had 
subsided. 

As  our  brig,  borne  on  by  the  ice,  commenced  her 
ascent  of  the  berg,  the  suspense  was  oppressive.  The 
immense  blocks  piled  against  her,  range  upon  range, 
pressing  themselves  under  her  keel  and  throwing  her 
over  upon  her  side,  till,  urged  by  the  successive  accumu- 
lations, she  rose  slowly  and  as  if  wdtli  convulsive  eflbrts 
along  the  sloping  wall.  Still  there  was  no  relaxation 
of  the  impelling  force.  Shock  after  shock,  jarring  her 
to  her  very  centre,  she  continued  to  mount  steadily  on 
her  precarious  cradle.  But  for  the  groaning  of  her 
timbers  and  the  heavy  sough  of  the  iloes,  we  might 
have   heard   a  pin  drop.      And    then,  as    sh6    settled 


by  the  com- 
s.  The  tur- 
keys tlio  im- 
icnt ;  but  in 
lawsers,  the 
f  our  btoven 
n  our  decks, 
experienced 
like.  Upon 
liich  formed 
'  out  lines ; 
r  the  zeal  of 
[anger.  Mr. 
I  to  a  tloat- 
our  men  at 
;,  and  could 
he  gale  had 


!•■! 


menced  her 
issive. 


The 


upon  range, 
hrowing  her 
sive  accumu- 
ulsive  efforts 
o  relaxation 
,  jarring  her 
t  steadily  on 
iiing  of  her 
s,  we  might 
sh6    settled 


! 


r :' 


a 


-ft 


y 


;;  i 


i 


1,      I 


I       ^ 


.|^M 


t  ,A 


!?t^ 


jii  III 


m-^\' 


f      !'  i! 


li'  I'll" 


M 


. 

• 

1 

1 

IfHiiill' 

■1 

1,   fi 

ft 

!     {■ 

i 


M 


L!;l!,»i.-'' 


I 


111),  '.  :';'! 


H     '     11     i,     iJ    '. 


• 

1 

■    '  :'' 

' 

,>■ 

f 

'"' 

* 

liirifi 


i.'i''  ' 


;' 


m 


'M 


k\k 


Hlild       AT      K  r,  S  T 


t  t 


down  iiilo  li(M-  old  position.  (jiiiiMlv  (Mkiiiir  her  [)1jico 
iniioii;i  the  Itrokon  nil)))isli,  there  was  a  deei)-h'-eathini^ 
sileiK-e.  as  llioui:li  nil  were  wailiiii;'  lor  some  .-ignal 
hciorc  the  clamor  of  (M)nurat illation  and  eomnieut 
could  ')urst   rortli."'^ 


r  H  t     •!  f  ',  :  u  t . 


! 


r. ,!,! 


I 


\i 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


.■3f 


I    iti:il 


1|''  ,!'i 


il 


m 


.•I'.il! 


!^l'i!!r•| 


I.  'M 


!  I 


ill  W 


i''!'':.l!|t  :• 


'h 


!;;,  1.J  :i. 


:^ 


(ii:,.. 


'li  ■■i.ii:i;- 


TRACKING INSPECTING   A    IIARnOR — TIIK    MUSK  OX — STILL   TRACK- 
ING—  CONSULTATION  —  WARI'INO     AGAIN AGROUND    NEAR    THE 

ICE-FOOT A      BREATHING     Sl'ELL  —  THE      HOAT      EXPEDITION  — 

DEPARTURE. 

It  was  not  until  the  22d  that  the  storm  abated,  and 
our  absent  men  Avero  once  more  gathered  back  into 
their  mess.  During  the  interval  of  forced  inaction, 
the  little  brig  was  fixst  to  the  ice-belt  which  lined  the 
bottom  cf  the  clil^s,  and  all  hands  rested;  but  as  soon 
as  it  was  over,  we  took  advantage  of  the  Hood-tide  to 
pass  our  tow-lines  to  the  ice-beach,  and,  harnessing 
ourselves  in  like  mules  on  a  canal,  made  a  good  three 
miles  by  tracking  along  the  coast. 

"August  22,  Monday. — Under  this  coast,  at  the  base 
of  a  frowning  precipict;,  we  are  now  working  toward  a 
large  bay  which  runs  well  in,  facing  at  its  opening  to 
the  north  and  west.  I  should  save  time  if  I  could 
cross  from  headland  to  headland;  but  I  am  obliged  to 
follow  the  tortuous  land-belt,  without  whose  aid  we 
would  go  adrift  in   the  pack  again. 

"The  trend  of  our  line  of  operations  to-day  is  almost 

78 


I 


T  K  A  C  K  1  N  <i. 


79 


TILL  TRACK- 
)  NEAR  TIIK 
il'KDITlON  — 


bated,  and 
back  into 
I  inaction, 
.  lined  the 
)ut  as  soon 
Dod-tide  to 
larnessing 
ood  three 

it  the  base 
'r  toward  a 
opening  to 
ii'  1  could 
obliged  to 
ise   aid  we 

y  is  almost 


■I 


due  east.  We  are  already  protected  from  the  south, 
but  iearlully  exposed  to  a  northerly  gale.  Of  this 
there  are  Ibrtunately  no  indications. 

"August  2:'),  Tuesday. — We  tracked  along  the  ice- 
belt  for  about  one  mile,  when  the  tide  fell,  and  the 
brig  grounded,  heeling  over  until  she  reached  her  bear- 
ings. She  rose  again  at  10  p.  m.,  and  the  crew  turned 
out  upon  the  ice-belt. 


IRACKiNLi      ALONi.       I    n  t         vE-lltLT. 


"The  decided  inclination  to  the  eastward  which  the 
shore  sliows  here  is  important  as  a  geographical  feji- 
ture ;  but  it  has  made  our  progress  to  the  actual  north 
nnich  less  than  our  wearily-earned  miles  should  count 
lor  us.  Our  latitude,  determined  by  the  sun's  lower 
culmination,  if  such  a  term  can  be  applied  to  his  mid- 
night depression,  gives  78°  41'.  We  are  farther  north, 
therefore,  than  any  of  our  predecessors,  except  Parry 
on  his  Spitzbergen  foot-tramp.  There  are  those  with 
whom,  no  matter  how  insuperable  the  obstacle,  failure 
involves  disgrace :  we  are  safe  at  least  from  their 
censure. 


'■  I' 


.r.  : 


1 

1 

1     f 

1 

f 

1 

80 


I  N  S  I'KC  T  1  N  (;      A      11  A  ii  U  ()  K. 


"Lust  niglit  1  sc'iil  out  Messrs.  Wilson,  Pclciscn,  and 
lioiisall,  to  inspect  u  luirbor  wliicli  seems  to  lie  betwcien 
a  small  island  and  a  val'  that  fonns  the  inner  slope 
ol'  our  bay.  They  report  jont  traces  ol'  deer,  and 
bririij:  back  the  skull  oi'  a  musk  ox. 


^1  Ii- 


'  I 


^1: 


:|/'i«t 


•1 

'«! 

-i:.i 

1 

ji  •  1 

B 

^- 

II 

1':  Ii 

1; 

¥• 


\u 


'f- 


I  N  -  >'  L   ■ .   I 


\  I    \  •<     ■    J    f. 


1;  r  .1 


';:ii 


%'^ 


ii':i 


iit.i  it 
II!  :!l' 


!■  :f, 


-■•r 


1;-'      I: 


ill 


"Hitherto  this  animal  has  never  been  seen  east  of 
Melville  Island.  But  his  being  here  does  not  surprise 
me.  The  migratory  passages  of  the  reindeer,  who  is 
even  less  Arctic  in  his  range  than  the  musk  ox,  led  me 
to  expect  it.  The  fact  points  to  some  probable  land 
connection  between  Greenland  and  America,  or  an  ap 


I^W 


.'tei'soii,  uikI 
lie  between 
inner  slope 

1"  deer,  and 


fe; 


s^-s^«, — : . :. 


;een  east  of 
not  surprise 
leer,  who  is 
I  ox,  k'd  nie 
obiible  land 
I.  or  an  ap 


T  II  i;    M  r  s  K    ox. 


81 


pro;«cli   suHieientlv  close  to  ;diow  these  .iniinals  to  nii- 
tiTlltc  between   tlie  two. 

-The  hciid  is  th:it  of  :i  male.  Ui-ll-niarked  hut  old: 
the  teeth  (lelieieut.  but  the  bonis  verv  ju'rleet.  These 
last  iiieasui'e  tw<»  feet  three  inches  across  from  tip  to 
tip.  ami  are  I'acli  one  foot  ten  inches  in  leniith  niea- 
suri'd  to  the  medium  line  of  the  llo'ehead.  up  to  which 
thev  are  contiimed    in    the   chai'acterist ic    boss  or   pi'o- 


r^^^l 


THE         CE-r.  ELT. 


tuberance.      Our  winter    mav   l)e    <;reatl\-  cheered   hv 
their  l)ee('  should  they  revisit   this  solitnde.'^'^^ 

"We  have  collected  thus  I'ar  no  less  than  twent\- 
two  species  of  ilowerintr  [)lants  on  the  shores  of  this 
bav.  Scanty  as  this  starved  llora  mav  seem  to  the 
botanists  of  more  favored  zones,  it  was  not  without 
surprise  and  interest  that  I  reco.irnised  amon^ir  its  tho- 
roughly Arctic  tyi)es    many  plants   which    had   l)efore 

Vol..  L— (i 


1 


■  \.> 


I  ■! 


i'] 


:\       ' 


!   i 


82 


ST  1  I,  \,     T  IJ  A  (•  K  I  N  (i. 


I| 


llfsi»! 


:i  ' 


^^i 


^'C;. 


n       I 


bcon  considered  us  indigenous  only  to  more  southern 
latitudes/'''^ 

"■The  thermometer  j^ave  twenty-live  degrees  hist 
night,  and  the  young  ice  formed  witliout  intermission  : 
it  is  nearly  two  inches  alongside  the  hrig.  I  am  loth 
to  recognise  these  signs  of  the  ad\ancing  cold.  Our 
latitude  to-day  gives  us  7S°  .'J?',  taken  irom  a  station 
some  three  miles  inside  the  indentation  to  the  south. 

"August  24,  Wednesday. — We  have  ke[)t  at  it,  track- 
ing along,  grounding  at  low  water,  l)ut  working  like 
horses  when  the  tides  allowed  us  to  move.  We  ai'c 
now  almost  at  the  hottom  of  this  indentation.  Opposite 
us,  on  the  shore,  is  a  remarkahle  terrace,  which  I'ises  in 
a  succession  of  steps  until  it  is  lost  in  the  low  rocks  of 
the  hack  countrv.  The  ice  around  us  is  hroken,  hut 
heavy,  and  so  comjiacted  that  we  can  barely  [)enetrate 
it.  Tt  has  snowed  hard  since  10  r.  m.  of  yesterday,  and 
the  sludge  (ills  up  the  interstices  of  the  Hoes,  Nothing 
hut  a  strong  south  wind  can  give  us  further  progress  to 
the  north. 

"August  2-5,  Thursday. — The  snow  of  yesterday  has 
surrounded  ns  with  a  pasty  sludge;  Ijut  the  young  ice 
continues  to  be  our  i  ,st  formidable  opponent.  The 
mean  temperatures  of  the  22d  and  2-)d  were  27°  and 
'>0°  Fahrenheit.  I  do  not  like  being  caught  by  winter 
before  attaining  a  higher  northern  latitude  than  this, 
but  it  appears  almost  inevitable.  Favored  as  we  have 
been  hy  the  mildness  of  the  summer  and  by  the  al)rading 
action  of  the  tides,  there  are  indications  around  ns  which 
')oint  to  an  earlv  winter. 

1  «/ 


■p» 


CON  Sr  I.T  A  T  I  ()  N. 


s:{ 


r«'  soil 


tlicni 


logrtH's    last 

itcniiissioii  : 

1  am  loth 

cold.  Our 
nil  a.  station 
tlio  south. 

at  it,  track- 
n)rkiii<;"  like 
('.  We  arc 
111.  Opposite 
iiicli  rises  in 
low  rocks  ol' 

broken,  hut 
\y  |)eiieti'ate 
-itordiiy,  and 
Nothin,ii' 
I'  progress  to 

sterday  has 
10  young  ice 
:)iieiit.  The 
ere  27°  and 
it  ])y  winter 
0  than  this. 

as  Ave  have 
the  aljrading' 
md  usAvhicli 


We  are  siiHicieiitly  snrr(»iiiided  by  ice  to  make  our 
ciiaiices  ol"  escape  ne.\t  year  uncertain,  and  v«'t  not  as 
lar  as  I  could  wish  Ibr  our  spring  journeys  by  the 
sledge. 

•'Aiigu.4  liO.  Friday. — My  oHicers  and  crew  are 
stanch  and  linn  men;  but  the  depressing  inllnences 
of  want  ol'ri'st.  the  ra[)id  advance  oi' winter,  and,  above 
all.  our  slow  progress,  make  them  sympathi/e  but  little 
with  this  continued  ellbrt  to  force  a  wav  to  the  north. 
One  ol"  them,  an  execdlent  member  of  the  [)arty, 
Noluiiteered  an  expression  of  opinion  this  morning  in 
I'asor  of  returning  to  the  south  and  giving  u[)  the 
attempt   to  winter." 

it  is  unjust  for  a  commander  to  measure  his  subor- 
dinates in  such  exigencies  by  his  own  standard.  The 
interest  which  thev  ieel  in  an  undertakiii!''  is  of  a  dif- 
lerent  nature  from  his  own.  With  him  tliere  are 
always  personal  motives,  apart  from  ollicial  duty,  to 
stimulate  ellbrt.  He  receives,  if  successful,  too  large  a 
share  of  the  credit,  and  he  justly  bears  all  the  odium 
of  failure. 

An  a])i)rehension — I  hope  a  charitable  one — of  this 
fact  leads  me  to  consider  the  opinions  of  my  odieers 
with  much  respect.  I  called  them  together  at  once,  in 
a  formal  council,  and  listened  to  their  views  in  full. 
With  but  one  exception,  xMr.  Henry  Brooks,  they  were 
convinced  that  a  further  progress  to  the  north  was 
impossible,  and  were  in  favor  of  returning  southward 
to  winter. 

Not  being  able  conscientiously  to  take  the  same  view, 


n 


I  f, 


ij!P|;j|.(l'!i 


•1  ^iiy^i'L 


H       :i\ 


fl 


%l 


n^ 


i?i 


'■'  :i;  . 


>:'"^hJ. 


m[k 


■ij;i!i'  ti 


84 


\V  A  K  I'  1  N  (i       A  (J  A  !  N. 


1  explained  to  tliciu  tlu>  inqjoi'taiico  ol'  set'iiriiiii,'  ji  |)o.si- 
tioii  ^v!li('h  iniiilit  expedite  our  sledi;e  journeys  in  the 
future ;  and.  ai'ier  assuring'  them  that  such  a  [josition 
cu)uhl  only  he  attained  hy  eontinuin^i;'  oin*  ellorts,  an- 
nounced my  intention  ol'  \var[)ini:,'  toward  the  northern 
headhmd  of  the  bay.  "Once  there,  I  sliall  he  ahle  to 
determine  I'rom  actual  inspection  tlie  best  point  Ibr  set- 


CAPE       THOMAS      iriPER. 


ting  out  on  the  o[)erations  ol'  the  s|)ring;  and  at  the 
tiearest.  possible  shelter  to  that  jjoint  1  will  put  the  bi"ig 
into  winter  harbor."  My  comrades  received  this  deci- 
sion in  a  manner  that  was  most  grati lying,  and  entered 
zealously  upon  the  hard  and  cheerless  duty  it  involved. 
The  warping  began  again,  each  man,  myself  in- 
cluded, taking  his  turn  at  the  capstivn.  The  ice  seemed 
less  heav\'  as  we  penetrated  into  the  recess  of  the  ba>  ; 


'%yol:.^ 


iiriii!:,'  ji  |)o.si- 
riievs  ill  tlu' 
h  ;i  [)()siti<)ii 
'  cllorts,  aii- 
hv  iioillioni 
II  1)0  Jiblo  to 
K)int  I'or  sct- 


tp^ 


*^^^m^^ 


and  at  tlu' 
l)iit  tlio  I)ri<i 
'd  this  di'ci- 
aiid  entered 
it  involved. 

inyselt*  in- 
!  ice  seemed 
of  the  ha\ ; 


ACinH'NI)     NKAH     TlIK     ICK-FOOT. 


Sf) 


otir  tnu'kdines  and  shoulder-hells  replaced  the  warps. 
Hot  eollee  was  served  out ;  and,  in  the  midst  of  eheering 
sonj^s.  our  little  hrit;'  moved  oif  hriskly. 

Our  success,  howi'ver,  was  not  eom[)lete.  At  the 
very  |)eriod  of  hiiih-water  she  took  the  .ground,  while 
close  uuder  the  walls  of  the  ice-foot.  it  would  have 
]>cvn  maduess  to  atleiu[)t  shoring;'  her  U[).  I  could  only 
fasten  heavy  tackle  to  the  rocks  which  lined  the  base 
of  the  clilfs,  and  trust  to  the  noble  little  craft's  unas- 
sisted stren<;th. 

'^Vuti'ust  27.  Saturday. — We  failed,  in  spite  v)f  our 
elforts,  to  .t-'et  the  bri.u,-  oil'  with  last  night's  tide;  and,  as 
our  night-tides  are  generally  the  highest,  I  have  some 
apj)reheiisions  as  to  her  liberation. 

•'We  have  landed  every  thing  we  eonld  get  up  on  the 
rocks,  put  out  all  our  boats  and  lilled  them  with  pon- 
derables alongside,  sunk  our  rudder  astern,  and  h)wered 
our  remaining  heavy  anchor  into  one  of  onr  quarter- 
boats.  Heavy  hawsers  are  out  to  a  grounded  lump  of 
berg-ice,  ready  for  instant  heaving. 

"Last  night  she  heeled  over  again  so  abruptly  that 
we  were  all  tuuibled  out  of  our  berths.  At  the  same 
lime,  the  cabin  stove  with  a  full  charge  of  glowing 
anthracite  was  thrown  down.  The  deck  bla/A'd  smartly 
(or  a  while;  but,  by  saerilicing  Mr.  Sontag's  heavy 
pilot-cloth  coat  to  the  [)ublie  good,  I  choked  it  down 
till  water  could  be  passed  from  above  to  extinguish  it. 
It  was  fortunate  we  had  water  near  at  hand,  for  the 
powder  was  not  far  olf. 

"o  r.  M. — The  ground-ice  is  forced  in  upon  our  stern. 


!  I 


::•! 


'  1' 


O' 


:  1 


J    I- 


I 


80 


A  G  U  ( )  i:  N  I)     N  i;  A  11     T  UK     1  C  K  -  F  ()  t)  T. 


'':'.  Y  Ji  :\''t' 

!!    fiSi    if! 


mil 


H' 


I 


splintering  our  rudder,  jiiid  drawing  iigaiu  the  bolts  ol" 
tlie  pintle-i'iisings. 

"5  P.M. — She  lloats  again,  and  our  track-lines  are 
maimed.  Tiie  men  work  with  a  will,  and  the  brig 
moves  along  bravely. 


.T^,    -.;  >c?i-',.--'  '.1*- 


AGROUND       NEAR      THE       ICE-FOOT 


4 


i:  -'«'.,'^ 


"10  r. M. — Aground  again;  and  the  men,  after  a  hot 
sup[)er,  have  turned  in  to  take  a  s[)ell  of  sleep.  The 
briu'  has  a  hard  time  of  it  with  the  rocks.  She  has  been 
high  and  dry  for  each  of  the  two  last  tides,  and  Avithin 
three  days  has  grounded  no  less  than  five  times.  I  i'eel 
that  this  is  hazardous  navigation,  but  am  convinced  it 
is  my  duty  to  keep  on.     Except  the  loss  of  a  portion  of 


'■n  !■: 


T. 


the  bolts  of 


ek-liiies  arc 
id   the  brig 


sfe 


„:»tfr  ■ 


j'Sftjp-«®„ 


,  after  a  hot 
•ileep.  The 
Ihe  has  been 
,  and  within 
mes.  1  feel 
•on vi  need  it 
a  portion  of 


A      H  Ki;  AT  11  I  \(i      Sl'KLL. 


87 


our  false  keel,  we  have  sustained  no  real  injnry.  The 
brig  is  still  \vate.--tij-lit;  and  her  broken  rudder  and  one 
shattered  spar  ean  be  easily  repaired. 

"August  28,  Sunday. — By  a  eomplieation  of  pur- 
chases, junipers,  and  shores,  we  started  the  brig  at 
•MO;  and,  Mr.  Ohlsen  having  temporarily  secured  the 
rudder.  I  determined  to  enter  the  iloe  and  trust  to  the 
calm  of  the  morning  for  a  chance  of  penetrating  to  the 
iKn'thern  land-ice  ahead. 

''This  land-ice  is  very  old,  and  my  hope  is  to  get 
through  the  loose  trash  that  surrounds  it  by  springing, 
and  then  lind  a  fast  that  nuiy  serve  our  tracking-lines. 
I  am  already  well  on  my  way,  and,  in  spite  of  the  omin- 
ous nods  of  my  ollicers,  have  a  fair  prospect  of  reach- 
ing it.  Here  it  is  that  splicing  the  main-brace  is  of 
service  P^^^ 

"1  t<K)k  the  boat  this  morning  with  Mr.  McGary,  and 
sounded  along  outside  the  land-lloe.  I  am  satisfied  tlie 
passage  is  practicable,  and,  by  the  aid  of  tide,  wind,  and 
springs,  have  advanced  into  the  trash  some  two  hun- 
dred yards. 

"We  have  reached  the  floe,  and  fnid  it  as  I  hoped; 
the  only  drawback  to  tracking  being  the  excessive  tides, 
which  expose  us  to  grounding  at  low-water. ' 

Wv  had  now  a  breathing  spell,  and  I  could  find  time 
to  look  out  again  upon  the  future.  The  ])roken  and 
distorted  area  around  us  gave  little  promise  of  success- 
ful sledge-travel.  But  all  this  might  change  its  aspect 
under  the  action  of  a  single  gale,  and  it  was  by  no 
means   certain  that  the  ice-fields  farther  north  would 


\  I, 


i' 


I  ti> 


I  ■  I ,! 


^^1 


li 


i! 


'ii:i-'^ 


111     j! 


■i! 


•f'l 


li^-i: 


: !  f-'y 


S8 


T  il  K      no  A  T      K  X  TK  I)  I  T  l(»  N. 


lijivc  till'  s;mu'  niiiiicd  iiiul  dispiritini;  cliaracU'r.  !?(»- 
si(k's.  IIk'  ici'-hclt  was  slill  lu'lori'  us,  broken  sonictiiiu's 
Mild  dillicult  to  trjivorsc,  hut  i»rtu'ti('al)k'  lor  a.  partv 
on  loot.  ai)|)arcMitlv  for  iiiilcs  alicjid;  ;uid  1  IMt  sure 
that  a  ri'sojuto  boat's  crew  miu'lit  piisli  and  track 
IIrmi'  wav  lor  some  distance  alonu'  it.  I  resolved  to 
iniike     the     trial,    and     to    jud.^e    what     ou^uht    to    he 


IHE       FORLORN       HOPE. 


our  wi uteri iig   ground    from   a  personal   inspection   of 
the  coast. 

I  had  been  ([uietly  preparing  lor  sucli  an  expedition 
lor  some  time.  Our  best  and  lightest  \vhale-l)oat  had 
been  fitted  with  a  canvas  cover,  that  gave  it  all  the 
comfort  of  a  tent.  We  had  a  supply  of  penimican  ready 
packed  in  small  cases,  and  a  sledge  taken  to  pieces  was 
stowed  away  under  the  tlnvarts.      In  the  morning  of 


ilcUT.        ])<'- 

soiuctinu's 
or  a  1)11  rtv 
I  IMt  sine 
iuid  truck 
resolved  to 
iilit     to    !)(' 


THE      F<)KL()I!\      IM  »!'!•:. 


89 


tlu'  'J!>tli.  Mr.  lirooks.  Mcriiirv,  aiul  iiiysrlt;  wulkcd 
iourti'cii  milos  along  the  inaruinal  ice:  it  was  lioavy 
and  coinplicatod  with  drift,  hut  thorc  was  nothin<,^  ahout 
it  to  iriakf  me  chan.iic  my  luirposc. 

My  hoat  crew  consisted  of  seven,  ah  of  them  volun- 
teers and  reliahle: — Brooks.  IJonsall.  McOary,  Sontag, 
Riley,  IJlake,  and  Morton.  We  had  huflalo-rohes  for 
our  sleepin<;-gear.  and  a  sin,u'le  extra  <hiy  suit  was  put 
on  hoard  as  common  property.     Each  man  carried  his 


spection  of 

expedition 
,le-hoat  had 
3  it  'dl  the 
nican  read}' 
)  pieces  was 
moriunsi:  of 


f^ 


.■^^^:^aMj^'--^&^^-^\      If 


THE   FORLORN   HOPE,   EQUIPPED. 


girdle  full  of  woollen  socks,  so  as  to  dry  them  by  the 
warmth  of  his  body,  and  a  tin  cup,  with  a  sheath-knife, 
at  the  })elt :  a,  soup-i)ot  and  lamp  for  the  mess  com- 
pleted our  outfit. 

In  less  than  throe  hours  from  my  first  order,  the 
•"Forlorn  Hope"  was  ready  for  her  work,  covered  with 
tin  to  prev^ent  her  lieing  cut  through  by  the  bay-ice ; 
and  at  h[df-past  three  in  the  afternoon  she  was  freighted, 
launched,  and  on  her  way. 

I  placed  Mr.  Ohlsen  in  command  of  the  Advance,  and 
Dr.  Hayes  in  charge  of  her  log  :  Mr.  Ohlsen  with  orders 


5-1' 


'■I 


^i 


90 


D  E  P  A  K  T  U  U  E. 


!,;  -I 


I  |i' 


to  haul  the  brig  to  the  southward  and  eastward  into  a 
sale  berth,  and  there  to  await  my  return. 

Many  a  warm  shake  of  the  hand  from  the  crew  we 
left  showed  me  that  our  good-bye  was  not  a  mere  for- 
mality. Three  hearty  cheers  from  all  hands  followed 
us, — a  God-speed  as  we  pushed  ofi'. 


1 4m 


1% 


I 


BROKEN   HUDDER. 


i 


„  -"it' ■ 

;||f!    .  in 


;  ,,  ;i 


!i  I     t     t 


ward  into  a 

ho  crow  wo 
ii  moro  for- 
ds Ibllowx'd 


CHAPTER   IX. 

TlIK     DKI'OT    JOURNEY  —  TIIK    ICK-IJKI,T — CIIUSSINO    .MINTUllN    IIIVKR 
—  SKKLKTON    MUSK    OX  —  CR08SI.\(i    TIIK    (JLACIKR — I    'HTA(iE    OF 

INSTRUMKXTS EXOKSSIVK    HUKDKN MAKV     MI.NTUHN     RIVKK 

roRDINU    TIIK    RIVKR  —  TIIACKKllAY    IlKADLAM)  —  CAl'E    JOHN    W 
FRANCIS  —  UKTURN    TO    THE    IJRKi — THE    WINTER    HARHUR. 

In  the  first  jiortions  of  our  journey,  wo  found  a  nar- 
row but  obstructed  passage  between  the  ioe-belt  and 
the  outside  paclv.  It  was  but  a  few  yards  in  width, 
and  the  young  ice  upon  it  was  nearly  thick  enough  to 
bear  our  w<3iglit.  By  breal\:ing  it  up  we  wore  able  with 
eftbrt  to  make  about  seven  miles  a  da\'. 

After  such  work,  wet,  cold,  and  hungry,  the  night's 
rest  was  very  welcome.  A  couple  of  stanchions  were 
rigged  fore  and  aft,  a  sail  tightly  spread  over  the  canvas 
cover  of  our  boat,  the  cooking-lamp  lit,  and  the  buftalo- 
robes  spread  out.  Dry  socks  replaced  the  wet ;  hot  tea 
and  pemmican  followed ;  and  very  soon  we  forgot  the 
discomforts  of  the  day,  the  smokers  musing  over  their 
pipes,  and  the  sleepers  snoring  in  dreamless  forgot- 
fulness. 

We  had  been  out  something  less  than  twenty-four 


il: 


I 


^i? 


,:     .     I 


!  , 


M 


Jl:' 


( 


,1 
lli^'il; 


i    'i  ,-1 


iii 


Ii 


i'     : 


92 


TiiK    ic  i:-i{  i;  LT. 


liours  when  wv  caiiie  to  the  end  of  our  boiitin,i^'.  In 
front  and  on  one  side  was  the  pnek,  and  on  tlie  otlier  a 
wall  some  ten  I'eet  above  our  heads,  the  nni)raeti(';djle 
ice-belt.  By  waiting  for  high  tide,  ;uid  taking  advan- 
tage of  a  chasm  which  a  water-stream  had  worn  in  tiie 
ice,  we  managed  to  haul  up  our  lioat  on  its  surface; 
but  it  was  apparent  that  we  nuist  leave  her  there.  She 
was  stowed  away  snugly  under  the  shell,  r  of  a  large 
hununock;  and  we  pushed  forward  in  our  sledge,  laden 
with  a  lew  articles  of  absolute  necessitx'. 

Here,  for  the  first  time,  we  were  mtule  aware  of  a  re- 
nuirkable  feature  of  our  travel.  We  were  on  a  table  or 
shelf  of  ice,  which  clung  to  the  base  of  the  rocks  over- 
looking the  sea,  but  itself  overhung  by  steep  and  lofty 
clilfs.  Pure  and  beautiful  as  this  ivy  highway  was, 
huge  anguhir  blocks,  some  many  tons  in  weight,  Avere 
scattered  over  its  surface ;  and  long  tongues  of  worn- 
down  rock  occasionally  issued  from  the  sides  of  the 
dills,  and  extended  across  our  course.  The  cliffs 
measured  one  thousand  and  ten  feet  to  the  crest  of  the 
plateau  above  them.''' 

We  pushed  forward  on  this  ice-table  shelf  as  rapidly 
as  the  obstacles  would  permit,  though  embarrassed  a 
good  deal  by  the  frequent  watercourses,  which  created 

*  The  cliflfs  were  of  tabular  niairncsian  limestone,  with  iiiterlaid  and 
inferior  sandstones.  Their  height,  measured  to  the  crest  of  the  phiteau, 
was  nine  hundred  and  fifty  feet — a  fair  mean  of  the  profile  of  the  coast. 
The  height  of  the  talus  of  debris,  where  it  united  with  the  face  of  the 
cliff",  was  five  hundred  and  ninety  feet,  and  its  angle  of  inclination 
between  38°  and  45° 


{ 


I 


§ 


bojiting.  In 
1  the  other  a 
iii[)nieti('able 
ikin<:'  iidviin- 

woiii  in  the 
its   siirftieo ; 

there.  Slie 
r  ol'  u  hiri'e 
dedge,  hiden 

X'dVQ  of  Ji  re- 
)ii  a  table  or 
!  rocks  over- 
-'p  and  lol'ty 
ghway  was, 
veight,  Avere 
Les  of  worn- 
^ides  of  the 
The  elifls 
crest  of  the 

f  as  rapidly 
barrassed  a 
lich  created 

h  interlaid  and 
of  the  plateau, 

lie  of  the  coast. 

the  face  of  the 
of  inclination 


p. 

,1" 


n' 


ii 


•M 


i    I 


H.'ti 


I    'ii;' 


1'  '""J 
!    ll 


J      • 


i  ;  1.  t' 


f.  i  'i 


:;!i!( 


1 


'm 


'''  - 


'i'    lii 


1:1 


■r 


i' 


^■■■' 


1.1 


i\  > 


%' 


■  ;    I    ! 


.0- 


^ 


■I 

't 


1^ 


I      ■      ! 


i\ 

1- 
11-    ^ 

•i 

•1, 

lb 

1 

1 

li 

ilLui 

1-i 

iii.'  :>>     

i:  u  ()  s  s  I  N  ti    M  1  N  i  i:  u  n    h  i  v  i;  if. 


!);i 


hw'io  ;;()i'^*'s  ill  our  |);illi,  wiiidiim  occiisioiiullv,  and 
yciicr.'illv  stct'p-siilcd.  W'v  had  t<»  pass  our  sledge  caiv- 
fiilh  down  siicli  intcrniplioiis.  and  hear  it  iij)()ii  our 
slioiddri's.  wiidiii'-,  ol"  coiirsc,  tlii'oiiiiii  watci"  ol  an  cx- 
trciiK'ly  low  tciiipcratiirc.  Our  ni^lit  halts  \V('iv  upon 
kiiojis  ol"  snow  under  the  rocks.  At  one  of  these,  the 
tide  overllowed  our  tent,  and  forced  us  to  save  our 
hullido  slee[)in<^-''var  ]>y  holdiii.u  it  n[)  until  the  water 
subsided.  This  exercise,  as  it  tnrni'd  out,  was  more  oi' 
ji  trial  to  our  jiatience  than  to  our  health.  The  circu- 
lation was  assisted  perhaps  by  a  [)ercei)tion  of  the  ludi- 
crous. Kight  Yankee  Caryatides,  up  to  their  knees  in 
water,  and  an  ental)latnre  sustainiuf^  such  of  their 
household  ,u'ods  as  could  not  bear  immersion  !^-^^ 

On  the  1st  of  September,  still  followin,^'  th"  ice-Indt. 
we  found  that  wi>  were  enteriiiii;  the  recesses  of  another 
bay  but  little  smaller  than  that  in  wlii(di  we  liiid  left 
our  briu'.  The  limestone  walls  ceased  to  overhanu'  us; 
we  ri'aidied  a  low  liord,  and  a  <»lacier  blocked  our  way 
across  it.  A  succession  of  terraces,  rising  with  sym- 
metrical regularity,  h)st  themselves  in  long  parallel 
lines  in  the  distance.  They  were  of  limestone  shingle, 
and  wx^t  with  the  percolation  of  the  melted  ice  of  the 
glacier.  Where  the  hist  of  these  terraced  faces  abutted 
upon  the  sea,  it  blended  with  the  ice-foot,  so  as  to 
make  a  frozen  eomiiound  of  rock  and  ice.  Here,  lying 
in  a  pasty  silt,  I  found  the  skeleton  of  a  mnsk  ox.  The 
head  was  united  to  the  atlas ;  bnt  the  l)ones  of  the 
spine  were  separated  about  two  inches  apart,  and  con- 
veyed the  idea  of  a  displacement  produced  ratlier  by 


!l: 


( 


:!i 


% 


M 


!ll 


s  K  1 ;  1 , 1 ;  ION     MIS 


K      ( »  x . 


I    !■ 


'•"  '  til?' 

!■     alii 


'» 


kf; 


;'!;  v,i"  S 


I'OIII 


llic  slidiiii:  of  llic  Itcd  Itcucal  h.  llmii  |)\  ;i  loi-cc  I 
williDiiL  'I'lic  |t;isti\  Iro/cii  so  :is  lo  rcscnililc  limcsloiK. 
rock,  IkkI  lillcd  (lie  cosliil  cmnIIv,  and  (lie  rilts  wcic 
licaiilil'idlv  |K)lisli('d.  Il  was  lo  (lie  eve  an  indicddcd 
fossil.  i'(';id\    I'oi-  llic  innscnin  ol"  I  lir  collrclor. 


I  II I      .1111'.     .'I      ,,  I  A  r  1  !  K     r.  A  1 


I,      i     d 


I 


•,\\\\  nnniilc  in  ih'Iailiii'^  llicsc  ;ii>i>(';ir:in('('s,  lor  liicv 


'•(Minccl  IIiciiiscIn cs  in  iiiv  mind  with  llic  fossils  of  llic 
Kisclioll/,  (dills  Mnd  llic  Sihcrian  alln\ions.  I  w:is 
slarlicd  al  liic  facililv  willi  witicli  llic  siiicions  liiiic- 
slonc,  under  llic  allcrinilc  ciicrL!,ics  of  IVosI  and  lliaw. 
Iiad    l)(>"n    iiicor|)oi'alcd   will)    llic   ofjanic    remains.      Il 


I  Torcc  IVoiii 
<'  liiiicsloiic 

<'    I'ilts   were 

II  iiiii)('(|(|<>(| 


(•  i;  (I  s  s  I  .\  (;     Till;     c  i,  \  (  ii:  i;. 


!):i 


ii:i(|  mIi'c.kIn  l)(';;iiii  l()  ;il(<'i'  tin-  slnifhiic  uf  llic  Itoiics, 
;iinl  ill  sr\('i;il  ilislaiiccs  llic  scilt'lii";*'  were  ('lllirclv 
"li\  »'!n|)C(|   ill   I  l';i\  cilill. 

'I'lic  t;ililc-l;ili(ls  Mild  i;i\iii('S  i-oiiiid  ;il)(»iil  (his  co.'isl 
altoiiiu!  ill  siicli  rciiiaiiis.  Tlicir  iniiiilicis  and  llic  iiiaii- 
iicr  ill  uliicii  llicN  arc  scattered  iiii|»|\  that  the  aiiiiiials 
made   their    iiiiLiralions    in    (hoxcs,  as    is   (he   case   with 


^-T 


's,  lor 

ihcv 

ssils  ol 

'   the 

■ 

IS.          1 

was 

/ 

cioiis   1 

imc- 

and  1 

law. 

<' 

mains. 

It 

/ 

II  I'  ■.  '.  I  N  1,       I    II  I        ..  I    4  .•  I  I    11. 


'•'<'  iviiidccr  now.  Within  tlie  area  of  a,  lew  acres 
we  loiiiid  scxcii  skeh'tons  and  miiiieroiis  skulls  :  these 
•  dl  occupied  the  siiow-st  reams  (»r  gullies  ihal  led  (o 
:i  ,ii()r-e  o|><-iiin,--  on  the  ice-hell,  and  iiii-hl,  thus  he 
,i;;alliered  ill  time  to  one  spot  hy  the  sim|>l(>  action  ol" 
I  he  watershed.'"' 

'I\>  cross  this  iilacier  -ave  ns  much  troiihle.     Its  sides 
were  slec|..  and  a  slip  ;i|   ;,ii\    time  iiii-'ht    lia\c  sent    ns 


4,1: 


M 


i! 


( (I 


I 


I  " 


('  \l> 


V"  >1 


I*    ! 


96 


r  ()  R  T  A  (;  !•;    o  v    i  x  s  t  u  u  .m  e  n  t  s. 


into  the  wiitcr  below.  Our  yliocs  were  smooth,  imfor- 
tuiuitoly ;  but,  by  using  cords,  uiid  lying  at  liill  length 
upon  the  ice,  we  got  over  without  ueeident.  On  tlio 
other  side  of  the  glacier  we  had  a  poilage  of  about 
three  miles ;  the  sledue  beiu'''  unladen  and  the  Ijaiiuauc 
carried  on  our  backs.  To  Mr.  IJrooks,  admitted  with 
singular  unanimity  to  be  the  strongest  man  of  oui 
party,  was  voted  our  theodolite,  aljout  sixty  pounds  of 
well-polished  mechanism,  in  an  angular  mahogany  box. 
Our  dip-circle,  equally  tar  from  being  an  honorary 
tribute,  fell  to  the  lot  of  a  party  of  volunteers,  wlio 
bore  it  by  turns. 

During  this  inland  crossing,  I  had  fnie  opportunities 
of  making  sections  of  the  terraces.  We  ascertained  the 
mean  elevation  of  the  face  of  the  coast  to  be  one  thou- 
sand three  hundred  feet.  On  regaining  the  seaboard, 
the  same  frowniui*'  cliils  and  rock-covered  ice-belt 
that  we  had  left  greeted  us. 

After  an  absence  of  li\e  days,  we  found  by  ol)ser\a- 
tion  that  we  were  but  forty  miles  from  the  brig.  Be- 
sides our  snudl  daily  progress,  we  had  lost  nnich  by  the 
tortuous  windings  of  the  coast.  The  ice  outside  (Hd 
not  invite  a  change  of  plan  in  that  direction;  but  I 
determined  to  lea^'';  the  sledge  and  })roceed  over  land 
on  foot.  Witli  the  exception  of  our  instruments,  we 
carried  no  weight  but  penimican  and  one  bulfalo-robe. 
The  weather,  as  yet  not  far  below  the  freezing-point, 
did  not  nuike  a  tent  essential  to  the  bivouac;  iind, 
with  this  light  equipment,  Ave  could  travel  readily  two 
miles  to  one  with   our  entire  outfit.     On   the   4th  of 


1. 


L 


TS. 

luootli,  uiifor- 
Jit  liill  Icngtli 
I'lit.  On  tlic 
age  ol'  about 
1  the  buggage 
dinitted  with 
inau  of  oui 
ty  pounds  of 
ahoganj  box. 
an  honorary 
nnteers,  wlio 

opportunities 
ccrtained  the 
be  one  thoii- 
the  seaboard, 
ered    iee-beU 

I  by  o)j.ser\  a- 
le  brig.  Be- 
nuieh  hy  the 

outside  (H(l 
etion  ;  but  I 
.'d  over  huid 
:ruiuents,  we 

bulfah)-rol)e. 
eezing-point, 
vouae  ;  and, 
1  readily  two 

the   4tii   ol' 


i:xi'  r.  ss  I  V  i;    h  u  u  d  k  n. 


U7 


September  we  made  tweiitv-four  miles  with  eom[)ara- 
ti\'e  ease,  and  weiv  refreshed  by  a  eomfortable  sleej) 
after  the  toils  of  the  day/=' 

The  oidy  drawbaek  to  this  new  method  of  advance 
was  the  inal)ility  to  earry  a  sullieient  quantity  of  I'ood. 
Kai'li  man  at  starting  had  a  fixed  allowanee  of  pem- 
niieau.  whieh,  with  his  other  load,  made  an  average 
weight  of  thirty-five  pounds.  It  proved  excessive  :  the 
Canadian  voyageurs  will  earry  nuieh  more,  and  for  an 
almost  indefinite  period;  but  we  found — and  we  had 
good  walkers  in  our  party — that  a  very  few  pounds 
overweight  broke  us  down. 

Oin-  nroL^-ess  on  tlie  oth  was  arrested  bv  another  I)a\' 
nuieli  laruer  than  anv  we  had  seen  since  entering 
Smith's  Straits.  It  was  a  noljle  sheet  of  water.  [)er- 
fectly  o|)en.  and  thus  in  strange  contrast  to  the  ice  out- 
.<i(le.  The  cause  of  this  at  the  time  inexplicable  phe- 
iiomenon  was  found  in  a  roaring  and  tumultuous  river, 
which,  issuing  from  a  fiord  at  the  inner  sweep  of  the 
bav,  rolled  with  the  \iolence  of  a  snow-torrent  over  a 
Ijroken  bed  of  rocks.  This  ri\-er.  the  largest  probably 
yet  known  in  North  (ireenland.  was  about  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  admitted  the  tides 
for  about  three  miles  ;^^' when  its  bed  rapidly  ascended. 


*  This  lialt  was  uiuliu'  the  loc  ut' a  lari^e  bouklor  iit'  ^nHMistimu,  luea- 

sxiriiig  f(iurt"(>ii  foot  iu  its  loiiu'  diaiuoter.     It  had  the  rudo  blocdciiif^- 

out  of  a  cube,  but  was  ruuuded  at  the  edges.     The  country  for  fourteen 

uiiles  around  was  of  the  low-bottoui  series  ;  the  nearest  greenstouo  must 

liave  been  many  miles  remote.     JJoulders  of  syenite  were  numerous; 

lh(;ir  line  of  deposit  nearly  duo  north  and  south. 
Vui,.  1.— 7 


i. 


■i 


I   1- 


1 

> 

li 

, '« 

I' 

■  I  •■ 


%  Ir' 


^  m 


>itiii 


I 


'  j 


'!| 


M 


rv'i 


■li,  i:f 


i  '^^'  11  I 


!KS 


M  A  K  V      .M  I  N  T  U  \i  \      U  I  V  K  R. 


iiiul  could  be  traced  \)y  the  ei)iili^;in'utu)ii  ot"  tlie  liillts  as 
lai"  as  a  lari'e  inner  fiord.  1  called  it  Marv  Mintuni 
Kiver,  after  the  sister  of  Mrs.  Henry  Grinnell.  Its 
course  '.vas  afterward  pursued  to  an  interior  glacier, 
I'roni  the  base  of  which  it  was  found  to  issue  in  nuuie- 


MARY       MlNTUSN      Ri;ER 


rous  streams,  that  unite(l  into  a  single  trunk  about  forty 
miles  above  its  mouth.  By  the  banks  of  this  stream 
we  encamped,  Udled  by  the  unusual  nuisic  of  running 
waters. 

Here,  protected  from  the  frost  l)y  the  infiltration  of 
the  melted  snows,  and  fostered  bv  the  reverbt'ration  of 


m 


% 


I:! 


r  tlie  hills  as 
[•dvy  -Miutuni 
riiuiell.  its 
n'ior  gliicier, 
.sue  ill  muiiL'- 


:  uboiit  forty 

this  stivam 

!  of  riuiiiiiiix 

1  filtration  of 
'rhcnitioii  of 


FORDING      THE      RIVER. 


09 


fjolar  hi'at  from  tho  rocks,  wo  met  a  llo\ver-<j^r()\vth, 
which,  thouiih  drearily  Arctic  in  its  ty[)e,  was  rich  in 
variety  and  colorinir.  Amid  festuca  and  other  tufted 
grasses  twiid\led  the  pur[)le  lychnis  and  the  white  star 
of  the  chickweed;  and  not  without  its  })leasing  asso- 
ciatioris  I  recognised  a  solitary  hesju'ris, — tiie  Arctic 
representative  of  the  v/allflowers  of  home.'-"^^ 

We  forded  our  way  across  this  river  in  the  morning, 
carrying  our  ptMumican  as  well  as  we  could  out  of 
water,  hut  submitting  ourselves  to  a  succession  of 
[)lunge-hatlis  as  often  as  we  trusted  our  weight  on  the 
ice-cajjped  stones  above  the  surface.  T!ie  liverage 
depth  was  not  over  our  hi[)s;  but  the  crossing  cost  us 
so  nmch  laUor  that  we  were  willing  to  halt  half  a  day 
to  rest. 

Some  seven  miles  firther  i,  a  large  cape  projects 
into  this  bay,  and  divides  it  into  two  indentations,  each 
of  them  the  seat  of  minor  watercourses,  fed  by  the  ghv 
ciers.  From  the  numerous  tracks  found  in  the  moss- 
beds,  they  would  seem  to  be  the  resort  of  deer.  Our 
iiieridian  observations  by  theodolite  gave  the  latitude 
of  but  78°  52':  the  magnetic  dip  w\as  84°  49'. 

It  was  plain  that  the  coast  of  Greenland  here  faced 
toward  the  north.  The  axis  of  both  these  buys  and 
the  general  dlreciion  of  the  watercourses  pointed  to  the 
same  conclusion.     Our  longitude  was  78°  41'  W. 

Leaving  four  of  my  party  to  recruit  at  this  station,  I 
started  the  next  morning,  with  three  volunteers,  to  cross 
the  ice  to  the  northeastern  headland,  and  thus  save 
the  almost  impossible  circuit  by  the  shores  of  the  bay. 


,,|. 


1 


';   1' 

'1' 


•    :pM  -i'! 


Ill 


M     I 


'I'i 


iOO 


THACKERAY      HEADLAND. 


This  ice  was  new,  and  far  m)iii  safe  :  its  margin  along 
the  open  water  made  by  Minturn  River  required  'ooth 
care  and  tact  in  passing  over  it.  We  left  the  heavy 
theodolite  behind  us ;  and,  indeed,  carried  nothing  ex- 
cept a  pocket-sextant,  my  Fraunhofer,  a  walking-pole, 
and  three  days'  allowance  of  rav/  pennnican. 

We    reached   the   headland    after    sixteen    miles   of 


THACKERAY       HEADLAND. 


walK,  and  found  the  ice-foot  in  good  condition,  evi- 
dently better  fitted  for  sledge-travel  than  it  was  to  the 
south.  This  point  I  named  Cape  William  Makepeace 
Thackeray.  Our  party  knew  it  as  Chimney  Rock.  It 
was  the  last  station  on  the  coast  of  Greenhand,  de- 
termined by  intersecting  bearings  of  theodolite,  from 
known  positions  to  the  south.     About  eight  miles  be- 


i 


CAI'K     JOHN      W.      F  I{  A  N  CI  S. 


101 


m 


in  uloiig 
red  both 
e  heavy 
liing  ex- 
iiig-pole, 

miles  of 


1011,  evi- 
as  to  the 
akepeace 
lock.  It 
land,  de- 
ite,  from 
miles  be- 


\()n(l  it  is  a  hir;j,e  lieadhmd,  tlie  hiuliest  visil)le  from 
tlic  lute  position  of  our  bri^',  shutting  out  all  points 
iarther  north.  It  is  indicated  on  my  chart  as  (\apo 
Francis  Hawks.  Wc  found  the  table-hmds  were  tw(dvo 
hundred  feet  high  by  actual  measurement,  and  interior 
plateaus  were  seen  of  an  estimated  height  of  eighteen 
hundred. 

I  determined  to  seek  scmie  high  headland  beyond  (lie 
ca|)e.  and  make  it  my  final  point  of  reconnoissance. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  sight,  wlien,  aftei"  a  Inird 
day's  walk,  I  looked  out  from  an  altitude  of  eleven 
hundred  feet  upon  an  expanse  extending  beyond  the 
eightieth  parallel  of  latitude.  Far  oil'  on  my  left  was 
tlie  western  shore  of  the  Sound,  losing  itself  in  dis- 
tance toward  the  north.  To  my  right,  a  rolling 
primary  countiy  led  on  to  a  low  dusky  wall-like  ridge, 
which  I  afterward  recognised  as  the  Great  Glacier 
of  Humboldt;  and  still  beyond  this,  reaching  north- 
ward from  the  north-northeast,  was  the  land  wlrich 
now  bears  the  name  of  Washington :  its  most  pro- 
jecting headland,  Cape  Andrew  Jackson,  bore  four- 
teen degrees  by  sextant  from  the  farthest  hill.  Cape 
John  Barrow,  on  the  opposite  side.  The  great  area 
between  was  a  solid  sea  of  ice.  Close  along  its  shore, 
almost  looking  down  upon  it  from  the  crest  of  our 
lofty  station,  we  could  see  the  long  lines  of  hummocks 
dividing  the  floes  like  the  trenches  of  a  beleaguered 
city.^^"^  Farther  out,  a  stream  of  icebergs,  increasing  in 
numljers  as  they  receded,  showed  an  almost  impene- 
trable barrier;    since  I  could   not  doubt  that  among 


i   1 


ri' 


^ 


'i 


l|i 


,11 


■'  1  ' 


t 


102 


K  E  T  U  R  N     TO     THE     B  li  1  G. 


thoir  recesses  the  ice  was  so  crushed  as  to  be  impas- 
sable by  the  sledge. 

Nevertheless,  beyond  these  again,  the  ice  seemed 
less  obstructed.  Distance  is  very  deceptive  upon  the 
ice,  subduing  its  salient  features,  and  reducing  even 
lofty  bergs  to  the  appearance  of  a  smooth  and  attractive 
plain.  But,  aided  by  my  Fruunhofer  telescojDe,  I  could 
see  that  traversable  areas  were  still  attainable.  Slowly, 
and  almost  ^vitli  a  sigh,  I  laid  the  glass  dowui  and 
made  up  my  mind  for  a  winter  search. 

I  had  seen  no  place  combining  so  many  of  the  requi- 
sites of  a  good  winter  harbor  as  the  bay  in  which  we 
left  the  Advance.  Near  its  southwestern  corner  the 
wide  streams  and  the  watercourses  on  the  shore  pro- 
mised the  earliest  chances  of  liberation  in  the  coming 
summer.  It  was  secure  against  the  moving  ice  :  lofty 
headlands  walled  it  in  beautifully  to  seaward,  enclosing 
an  anchorage  with  a  moderate  depth  of  water ;  yet  it 
was  open  to  the  meridian  sunlight,  and  guarded  from 
wands,  eddies,  and  drift.  The  space  enclosed  was  only 
occupied  by  a  few  rocky  islets  and  our  brig.  We  soon 
came  in  sight  of  her  on  our  return  march,  as  she  lay  at 
anchor  in  its  southern  sweep,  with  her  masts  cutting 
sharply  against  the  white  glacier  (C) ;  and,  hurry- 
ing on  through  a  gale,  were  taken  on  board  without 
accident. 

My  comrades  gathered  anxiously  around  me,  wait- 
ing for  the  news.  I  told  them  in  few  words  of  the  re- 
sults of  our  journey,  and  why  I  had  determined  upon 
remaining,  and  gave  at  once  the  order  to  warp  in  be- 


!  iinpas- 

seemed 
[)()ii  the 
ig  even 
tractive 

I  could 
Slowly, 
vn  and 


I 


i!  :J 

I 


0  requi- 
lich  we 
ler  the 
re  pro- 
coming 
lofty 
closing 
yet  it 
d  from 
LS  only 
e  soon 
lay  at 
utting 
liurry- 
itliout 


r 


1, 


lit 


» ' 


I   ? 


11  : 


!•'  ^1 


wait- 
ne  re- 

upon 
in  be- 


I 
1 


I 


I    t 


^^r\rM\ 


if 


1' 


''  i 


■^Vf?L 


''^^ 


i!-; 


m 


'    I. 


:     ! 


rfl 

1 

1 
1 

't 

> 

1.  1 

■] 

■'  , 

1 

t     ' 

1 

! 

1 

'1 

;i 

i 

1 
1 

i!    t 


'•iiiff    I 


twee 

and 

laid 

lU'VC 

iiiilt' 


T  II  h      \y  I  N  T  i;  I!      I!  A  i;  IH)  i; 


lo: 


twoon 


the  isliimls.      W'v  round  scvcii-rMlliDiii  .soimdiiiiis 


anil  M  pcflV'i't  slu'ltor  iVoni  (In-  outside  ice;  and  tlins 
laid  our  little  hri.i^'  in  tlic  liarhor,  which  we  wci'c  I'atcd 
iR'Vor  to  ii'ave  to.m'llicr. — a  lon^'  ivstin«i-[)la('i'  to  her 
indued,  for  the  same  ice  is  around  her  stiU. 


'i 


^k-  a4>'< 


.V  ' 


! 


WINTER      HARtlOa 
rill'  s;iini'  ii'O  is  !i?iiuMii  lii'i'  »lil'  ' 


4 


I  I 


.f    i 


,1  .  .  ■       li 


ij. 


I 

!    I 


H( 


R  t   N  S  *;  F   1    A  (    li       H  A  '•   ■*  ( :  N 


^   ! 


f.    i 


CllAL'TEU  X. 

AI'I'ROACIIlNn       WINTKR  —  STOIUMJ      PROVISIONS  —  lUJTLKR      STORK- 

HOliSK SUNDAY     AT     RKSl' HUlLI)lN(i     OHSKRV  ATORY TUAIN- 

1N(1    Tlir.     I)()(iS TUK    MTTLK    WILl-kK TlIK     ROAD  —  THK     KAiril 

—  SLKlKilNO RKl^ONNOISSANCK DKl'OT    TARTY. 

The  winter  was  now  approaching  rapidly.  The 
thennonieter  liad  fallen  by  the  TOth  of  Sei)teniber  t^) 
14",  jind  the  yoiini;  ice  Mad  eeniented  the  Hoes  so  that 
we  could  walk  and  sledge  round  the  brig.     About  sixty 

paces  north  of  us  an  iceberg  had  been  caught,  and  was 

lot 


'• 


STOi;  1  N  (J      1'  H  ()  V  1  S  1  <)  x  s. 


105 


iVo'/A'ii  ill  :  it  was  our  neii^lihor  while  wo  ivmaiiu'd  in 
I'cijssclnci-  Harbor.  Tlic  rocky  islets  around  us  woiv 
iVium'd  with  huninuH'ks;  nud,  as  tlic  titU'  IMl,  their  sides 
were  coated  with  ()pa(|ue  crystals  of  hrijiht  white.  The 
hii'ds  had  i2;one,  The  sea-swallows,  which  ahouuded 
when  we  first  reacluMl  her(\  and  cncu  the  youiip;  buruo- 
niaslei's  that  liiiLijered  alter  them,  had  all  tak(Mi  their 
departure  for  the  south.  K\eej)t  the  snow-birds,  these 
are  Ihe  last  to  uiiiirate  of  all  the  Arctic  birds. 

'•September  10,  Saturday. — We  have  pltMity  of  re- 
sponsible work  before  us.  The  long  'niiiht.  in  which 
no  man  can  work'  is  close  at  hand:  in  another  month 
we  shall  lose  the  sun.  Astrononncally.  he  should  dis- 
appear on  the  24  th  of  October  if  our  horizon  were  free; 
but  it  is  obstructed  by  a  mountain  ridge,  and,  making 
all  allowance  for  refraction,  we  cannot  count  on  seeing 
him  after  the  10th. 

"First  and  foremost,  we  have  to  unstow  the  hold, 
and  (le[)osit  its  contents  in  the  storehouse  on  Ihiller 
Island.  JJrooks  and  a  party  are  now  briskly  engaged 
in  this  double  laljor,  ruiniing  loaded  boats  along  a  canal 
lluit  has  to  be  recut  every  morning. 

"Next  comes  the  catering  for  winter  diet.  We  have 
httle  or  no  game  as  yet  in  Sndth's  Sound;  and,  though 
the  traces  of  deer  that  we  have  observe*!  nuiy  be  fol- 
lowed l)y  the  animals  themscdves,  1  cannot  cali'ulate 
uj)on  them  as  a  resource.  I  am  without  the  her- 
meticallv-sealed  meats  of  our  last  vo\aii'e ;  and  the  use 
of  salt  meat  in  circumstances  hke  ours  is  never  sale. 
A  fresh-water  i)ond.  which  fortnnatvlv  remains  open  at 


i  t 


1  M 


V 


4 


11 

1 

j 

1 

'mI 

s| 

■J 

1 

[:      1    , 


'I    1 


I!  I   M 


I         !I 


106 


13  UTLK  K      STO  K  K  II  ()  U  S  E. 


Medary,  gives  me  u  ehaiico  for  some  further  experi 
mentis  in  freshening  this  portion  of  our  stock.  kSteaks 
of  salt  junk,  artistically  cut,  are  strung  on  lines  like  a 
countrywoman's  dried  apples,  and  soaked  in  festoons 
under  the  ice.  The  salmon -trout  and  salt  codfish 
which  we  bought  at  Fiskernaes  are  placed  in  Ijarrels, 
perforated  to  permit  a  constant  circulation  of  fresh 
water  through  them.  Our  pickled  cabbage  is  similarly 
treated,  after  a  little  potash  has  been  used  to  neutralize 
the  acid.  All  these  are  submitted  to  twelve  hours  of 
alternate  soaking  and  freezing,  the  crust  of  ice  being 
removed  from  them  before  each  immersion.  This 
is  the  steward's  province,  and  a  most  important  one 
it  is. 

"  Every  one  else  is  well  employed  ;  McGary  arranging 
ami  IVnisall  making  the  inventory  of  our  stores; 
Ohlsen  and  Petersen  building  our  deck-house;  wliile  I 
am  devising  the  plan  (>f  an  architectural  interior,  which 
is  to  combine,  of  course,  the  utmost  ventilation,  room, 
dryness,  warmth,  general  accommodation,  comfort, — in 
a  word,  all  the  appliances  of  health. 

"We  Inive  made  a  comfortable  dog-house  on  Butler 
Island ;  but  though  our  Esquimaux  canaille  are  within 
scent  of  our  cheeses  there,  one  of  wdiich  they  ate  yes- 
terday for  lunch,  they  cannot  be  persuaded  to  sleep 
away  from  the  vessel.  They  prefer  the  bare  snow, 
where  they  can  couch  within  the  sound  of  our  voices, 
to  a  warm  kennel  upon  the  rocks.  Strange  that  this 
dog-distinguishing  trait  of  affection  for  man  should 
show  itself  in  an  animal  so  ini[)erfectly  reclaimed  from 


I 


y 


a  sa 
wan 


(piici 

gis 
be.u'il 


'g 


I 


!: 


SUNDAY      AT      REST. 


107 


a  .savage   state   tliat  he   eau   hardly   be   caught  when 
wanted ! 

'•September  11,  Sunday. — To-(hiy  came  to  us  the  first 
quiet  Sunday  of  harbor  hie.  We  changed  our  log  re- 
gistration tVom  sea-time  to  the  familiar  home  series  that 
begins  at  midnight.     It  is  not  only  that  the  season  has 


^a%^gi*i 


UUTLtR'S      ISLAND      STOREHOUSE. 


given  us  once  more  a  local  habitation ;  but  there  is 
something  in  the  return  of  varying  day  and  night 
that  makes  it  grateful  to  reinstate  this  domestic  obser- 
vance. The  long  staring  day,  which  has  clung  to  us 
for  more  than  two  months,  to  the  exclusion  of  the 
stars,  has  begun  to  intermit  its  briglitness.  Even  Al- 
debaran,  the  red  eye  of  the  Bull,  flared  out  into  fami- 
liar recollection  as  early  as  ten  o'clock ;  and  the  hea- 


■ '  t 

Hi 

I 


'  1  1 
l''\ 


y[ 


M 


i 


>     J 


Hi 


I 


I         ! 


ii:l  'M-\ 


i            •,. 

\ 
"} 

i 

1 

! 

i,: 

l:             ',•■ 

!i 

1            & 

' 

I; 

')         i 

j                                  ' 

'■  ,.  1 

1      ,      1         \ 

i 

11 

108 


HI    I  M)  1  N  (;      ()  li  S  K  K  V  A  TO  R  Y. 


vons,  though  still  .somewhat  reddened  by  the  gaudy 
tuits  of  nii<hiiglit,  gave  us  Capelhi  and  Areturus,  and 
even  that  lesser  light  of  home  memories,  the  Polar 
Star.  Streteliing  my  neck  to  look  uncomlortahly  at 
this  indication  of  our  extreme  northernness,  it  Avas  hard 
to  realize  that  he  was  not  directlv  overhead:  and  it 
made  me  siuli.  as  I  measured  the  few  degrees  of  dis- 
tance  that  separated  our  zenith  from  the  Pole  over 
which  lie  huiii;'. 

"AV-  had  our  accustomed  morning  and  evening 
})rayers ;  and  the  day  went  by,  full  of  sober  thought, 
and,  I  trust,  wise  resolve. 

"September  12,  M<mday. — Still  going  on  with  Satur- 
day's operations,  amid  the  thousand  discomforts  of 
house-cleaning  and  moving  combined.  I  dodged  them 
for  an  hour  this  morning,  to  fix  with  Mr.  Sontag  upon 
a  site  for  our  observatory;  and  the  men  are  already 
at  work  hauling  the  stone  for  it  over  the  ice  on  slediics. 
It  is  to  occupy  a  rocky  islet,  about  a,  hundred  yards 
off,  that  I  ha\e  named  after  a  Utile  spot  tliat  I  long  to 
see  again,  '  Fern  Rock.'  This  is  to  be  for  me  the 
centre  of  familiar  localities.  As  the  classic  Mivins 
breakfasted  lightly  on  a  cigar  and  took  it  out  in  sleep, 
so  I  have  dined  on  salt  pork  and  made  my  dessert  of 
home  dreams. 

"September  13.  Tuesday. — Besides  preparing  our 
winter  quarters,  I  am  engaged  in  the  preliminary  ar- 
rangements for  my  provision-depots  along  the  Green- 
land coast.  Mr.  Kennedy  is,  I  believe,  the  only  one 
of  my  predecessors  who  lias  used  October  and  Novem- 


TRAINING      THE      DOGS. 


109 


bcr  lor  Arctic  field-work;  but  1  deeni  it  iinportuiit  to 
our  iriovemeiits  during  the  winter  and  spring,  that  the 
depots  in  advance  should  be  made  before  the  darkness 


sets  in.  I  purpose  arranging  three  of  tiieni  at  in- 
tervals,— pushing  Iheni  as  far  forward  as  I  can, — to 
contain  in  all  some  twelve  hundred  pounds  of  pro- 
vision, of  which  eight  hundred  will  be  pennnican." 

My  plans  of  future  search  w^ere  directly  dependent 
upon  the  success  of  these  operations  of  the  fall.  With 
a  chain  of  provisi()n-de[)ots  along  tlie  coast  of  Green- 
land. I  could  readily  extend  my  travel  by  dogs.  These 
noble  animals  formed  the  basis  of  my  future  plans: 
tiie  only  drawback  to  their  efficiency  as  a  means  of 
travel  was  their  inability  to  carry  the  heavy  loads 
of  provender  essential  for  their  support.  A  badly-fed 
or  heavily-loaded  dog  is  useless  for  a  long  journey; 
but  with  relays  (jf  provisions  I  could  start  empty,  and 
fill  up  at  our  final  station. 

My  dogs  were  both  Es(pumaux  and  Newfoundland- 
ers. Of  these  last  I  had  ten :  they  were  to  be  care- 
fully l)roken,  to  travel  by  voice  without  the  whip,  and 
were  expected  to  be  very  useful  for  heavy  draught,  as 
their  tractability  w^ould  allow  the  driver  to  regulate 
their  pace.  I  was  already  training  them  in  a  light 
sledge,  to  drive,  unlike  the  Esquimaux,  two  abreast, 
with  a  regular  harness,  a  breast-collar  of  flat  leather, 
and  a  pair  of  traces.  Six  of  them  made  a  powerful 
travelling-team ;  and  four  could  carry  me  and  my  in- 
struments, for  short  journeys  around  the  brig,  with 
great  ease. 


i  I, 


'I               1 

); 

1 

i 

\ 

!        I 

'  • 

-:'!: 


Lr 


Kt: 


Il 


I    I 


110 


THE     LITTLE     WILLIE. 


The  sledw  1  used  for  tli 


l)uiU,  with  th 


used  lor  tiiem  was  hunt,  witli  tiie  c<are 
of  c{d)inet-work,  of  Aincricaii  liickory  thoroughly  sea- 
soned. The  curvature  of  the  runners  was  determined 
experinientally.^^'^they  were  shod  with  annealed  <teel, 
and  fastened  by  copper  rivets  which  could  be  renewed 
at  pleasure.  Except  this,  no  metal  entered  into  its 
construction.  All  its  parts  were  held  together  by  seal- 
skin lashings,  so  that  it  yielded  to  inecpialities  of  sur- 
face and  to  sudden  shock.     The  three  paramount  con- 


LITTLE      WILLIE,      AMD      NE//rOUNDL  ANDERS. 

siderations  of  lightness,  strength,  and  diminished  fric- 
tion, were  well  combined  in  it.  This  beautiful,  and, 
as  we  afterward  found,  elFicient  and  enduring  sledge 
was  named  the  "Little  Willie." 

The  Esrpiimaux  dogs  were  reserved  for  the  great 
tug  of  the  actual  journeys  of  search.  They  were  now 
in  the  semi-savage  condition  which  marks  their  close 
approach  to  the  wolf;  and  according  to  Mr.  Petersen, 
under  Avhose  care  they  Avere  placed,  were  totally  use- 
less for  journeys  over  such  ice  as  was  now  before  us. 
A  hard  experience  had  not  then  opened  my  eyes  to 


the 
the 
tud 
anu 
I 


THE      li  «)  A  I). 


Ill 


tlio  iiR'stimublo  vulue  of  those  dogs:  1  had  yvt  to  k-arn 
tlieir  power  and  speed,  their  patient,  enchiring  Ibrti- 
tiide,  their  sagaeity  in  tracking  these  icy  morasses, 
among  which  thev  had  been  born  and  bred. 

I  determined  to  liold  })ack  my  more  distant  pro- 
vision parties  as  long  as  tlie  continned  dayhght  wonhl 
permit;  making  the  Newl'onndhind  dogs  establisii  the 
depots  Avithin  sixty  miles  of  the  brig.  My  previous 
journey  had  shown  me  that  the  ice-belt,  clogged  with 
the  foreign  matters  dislodged  from  the  cliffs,  would  not 
at  this  season  of  the  year  answer  for  o[)erations  with 
the  sledge,  and  that  the  ice  of  the  great  pack  outside 
was  even  more  unfit,  on  account  of  its  want  of  eon- 
tinuit}'.  It  was  now  so  consolidated  by  advancing 
cold  as  to  have  sto[)ped  its  drift  to  the  south  ;  but  the 
large  iloes  or  fields  whicli  formed  it  were  imperfectly 
v^emented  together,  and  would  break  into  hummocks 
under  the  action  of  winds  or  even  of  the  tides.  It  was 
made  still  more  impassable  by  the  numerous  bergs'-' 
which  kept  ploughing  with  irresistible  momentum 
tlu'ough  the  ice-tables,  and  rearing  up  barricades  that 
defied  the  passage  of  a  sledge. 

It  was  desiraljle,  therefore,  th.it  our  depot  parties 
should  not  enter  upon  their  work  until  they  could 
avail  themselves  of  the  young  ice.  This  now  occu- 
pied a  belt,  about  one  hundred  yards  in  mean  breadth. 


*  The  general  drift  of  tlicso  great  masses  was  to  the  soutli, — a  plain 
indication  of  deep  sea-currents  in  that  direction,  and  a  convincing 
proof,  to  me,  of  a  discharge  from  some  northern  water. 


;  i 


iy'\ 


n:  ■ 


J 


!! 


Il.if 


t 


ij'l 


mi 


I  fti 


I      i 


* 


,■ 

L 

1  1'    ■ 

1     « 

>i 

I'    \ 

1,1 

1 

!■■■  3 

■ 
il.i 

112 


TllL      FAITH. 


close  to  the  shore,  iiiul,  but  lor  the  lluetuations  ol'  the 
tides,  would  already  be  a  practicable  road.  For  the 
present,  however,  a  gale  of  wind  or  a  spring  tide 
might  easily  drive  the  outer  Hoes  upon  it,  and  thus 
destroy  its  integrity. 

The  party  appointed  to  establish  this  depot  was 
I'urnished  with  a  sledge,  the  admirable  model  of  which 
1  obtained  through  the  British  Admiralty.  The  only 
liberty  that  1  ventured  to  take  with  this  model — 
which  had  been  previously  tested  by  the  adventurous 
journeys  of  McClintock  in  Lancaster  Sound — was  to 
lessen  the  height,  and  somewhat  increase  the  breadth 
of  the  runner;  both  of  which,  1  think,  were  improve- 
ments, giving  increased  strength,  and  preventing 
too  deep  a  descent  into  the  snow.  I  named  her  the 
"Faith."  Her  length  was  thirteen  feet,  and  breadtii 
four.  She  could  readily  carry  fourteen  hundred  pounds 
of  mixed  stores. 

This  noble  old  sledge,  which  is  now  endeared  to  me 
by  every  pleasant  association,  bore  the  brunt  of  the 
heaviest  parties,  and  came  back,  after 
the  descent  of  the  coast,  comparii- 
tively  sound.  The  men  were  at- 
tached to  her  in  such  a  way  as  to 
make  the  line  of  draught  or  traction 
as  near  as  possible  in  the  axis  of  the 
weiijrht.  Each  man  had  his  own 
shoulder-belt,  or  "rue-raddy,"  as  we 
used  to  call  it,  and  his  own  track- 
line,  Avhich    for   want   of  horse-hair 


THE      RUt-HAJuf 


rinj 

to  il 

vari 

part 

abrt 

feet, 

slet 

resti 


SLEDGING. 


113 


wiis  iiiiule  of  Manilla  rope :  it  traversed  freely  by  a 
ring  on  a  loop  or  bridle,  tliat  extended  from  runner 
to  runner  in  front  of  the  sledge.  These  traek-ropes 
varied  in  length,  so  as  to  keep  the  members  of  the 
party  from  interfering  with  each  other  by  walking 
abreast.  The  longest  was  three  fathoms,  eighteen 
feet,  in  length;  the  shortest,  directly  fastened  to  the 
sledge  runner,  as  a  means  of  guiding  or  suddenly  ar- 
resting and  turning  the  vehicle. 

The  cargo  for  this  journey,  without  including  the 


SLEDGE      DRAWN      BY      NINE      MEN. 


provisions  of  the  party,  was  almost  exclusively  pem- 
iiiican.  Some  of  this  was  put  up  iii  cylinders  of 
tinned  iron  with  conical  terminations,  so  as  to  resist 
the  assaults  of  the  white  bear;  but  the  larger  quan- 
tity was  in  strong  wooden  cases  or  kegs,  well  hooped 
with  iron,  holding  about  seventy  pounds  each.  Sur- 
mounting this  load  was  a  light  India-rubber  boat, 
made  quite  portable  by  a  frame  of  basket  willow, 
wliit'h  I  hoped  to  launch  on  reaching  open  water. ^-'^ 
The  personal  equipment  of  the  men  was  a  buffnlo- 
rolje  for  the  party  to  lie  upon,  and  a  bag  of  Mackinaw 

Vol.  I.— 8 


Ml 


!,i 


I  '     r 


'Kl: 


■  i. 


\        i 


Hi 

n,  I  I 


;9( 


it 


114 


R  E  C  O  N  N  ()  I  S  S  A  N  G  E. 


'I   -'!( 


I 


i'\ 


i:,l- :,.{'» 


\. 


bliinket  for  cjit'li  man  to  (;niwl  in^^  jit  night.  Indiu- 
iul»l)C'r  clotli  was  to  be  the  [)rotecti.u  iVoni  the  snow 
beneath.  The  tent  was  of  canvas,  made  after  the 
j)hin  of  our  English  predecessors.  We  afterward 
learned  U.  modify  and  reduce  our  travelling  gear, 
and  found  that  in  direct  proportion  to  its  simplicity 
and  our  a])parent  privation  of  articles  of  supposed 
necessity  were  our  actual  comfort  and  practical  effi- 
ciency. Step  by  step,  as  long  as  our  Arctic  service 
continued,  we  went  on  reducing  our  sledging  outfit, 
until  at  last  we  came  to  the  Esquimaux  ultimatum 
of  simplicity, — raw  meat  and  a  fur  bag. 

While  our  arrangements  lor  the  winter  were  still  in 
})rogress,  I  sent  out  Mr.  Wilson  ani  Dr.  Hayes,  acconi- 
})anied  by  our  Esquimaux,  Hans,  to  learn  something  of 
the  interior  features  of  the  country,  and  the  promise  it 
afforded  of  resources  from  the  hunt.  They  returned  on 
the  IGth  of  September,  after  a  hard  travel,  made  with 
excellent  judgment  and  abundant  zeal.  They  pene- 
trated into  the  interior  about  ninety  miles,  when  their 
progress  was  arrested  by  a  glacier,  four  hundred  feet 
high,  and  extending  to  the  north  and  west  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach.  This  magnificent  body  of  inte- 
rior ice  formed  on  its  summit  a  complete  plateau, — a 
mer  de  ylace,  abutting  upon  a  broken  plain  of  syenite/-^^ 
They  found  no  large  lakes.  They  saw  a  few  reindeer 
at  a  distance,  and  numerous  hares  and  rabbits,  but  no 
ptarmigan. 

"  September  20,  Tuesday. — I  was  unwilling  to  delay 
my   depot    party   any    longer.       They    left    the    brig, 


M(G:i 
toda} 
panie 
some 

all  th 
\vork 


1 


India- 
snow 
•  tlic 
ward 
^•ear, 

)licitv 


-a 


brig, 


DKI'oT      I'AKTV. 


iir* 


McGarv,  and  Bonsall,  witli  livo  nwu,  at  liall-past  one 
to-day.      A\  t'   gavi'    thoni    tliive   cheers,  and   I   accom- 
panied  tlicni   witli    my  dogs   as  a  I'arcwcll   escort  i'or 
,  some  miles. 

'•Our  crew  })roper  is  now  reduced  to  three  men  ;  l)ut 
all  the  ollicers,  the  doctor  among  the  rest,  are  hard  at 
work  upon  the  observatory  and  its  arrangements." 


:'i 


'■', 


!,   Ii 


I         ■! 


J 


;|iitP||;' 


>|i 


m^    I 


I  I 


W! 


CHAPTER   XI. 

THE  OIWKIIVATORY  —  THKRMuMKTEUS  —  THK  HATS  —  TIIK  BRIO  ON 
FIRE — ANCIENT  ISLEDUE-TRACKS —  ESQUIMAUX  HUTS — llYPRo- 
I'lloniA — SLEDGE-DRIVINO — MUSK    OX  TRACKS — A  SLEDUE  I'ARTV. 

The  island  on  which  we  phiced  our  observatory  was 
some  fifty  paces  long  by  perhaps  forty  broad,  and  about 
thirty  feet  above  the  water-line.  Here  we  raised  four 
walls  of  granite  blocks,  cementing  them  together  with 
moss  and  water  and  the  never-failing  aid  of  frost.  On 
these  was  laid  a  substantial  wooden  roof,  perforated  at 
the  meridian  and  prime  vertical.  For  pedestals  we 
had  a  conglomerate  of  gravel  and  ice,  well  rammed 
down  while  liquid  in  our  iron-hooped  pemmican-casks, 
and  as  free  from  all  vibration  as  the  rock  they  rested 
on.     Here  we  mounted  our  transit  and  theodolite. 

The  magnetic  observatory  adjoining,  had  rather  more 
of  the  affectation  of  comfort.  It  was  of  stone,  ten  feet 
square,  with  a  wooden  floor  as  well  as  roof,  a  copper 
fire-grate,  and  stands  of  the  same  Arctic  breccia  as 
those  in  its  neighbor.  No  iron  was  used  in  its  con- 
struction. Here  were  our  magnetometer  and  dip 
instruments. 

116 


il  '-^ 


^0. 


T  M  K    0  n  si:  k  v  a  tor  v. 


117 


Our  tidt'-ivji'istiM'  >v;is  on  iMcinl  tlic  vohscI.  a  siin[»l(' 
niilU'V-tiiiiijic,  iirraiiucd  with  ii  wheel  iinil  index,  iiiul 
(le[)endeiit  on  her  rise  and  Tall  for  its  rotation."'*'" 


0  H  '  0      IN      H  A  il  .   I'  ■). 


Our  meteorological  observatory  was  upon  the  o})en 
ice-lield,  one  hundred  and  forty  yards  from  the  ship. 
It  was  a  wooden  structure,  latticed  and  pierced  with 


.    'i 


.  I 


'i 


• 


I   ti 


lis 


T  II  I",  ij  M  o  M  i;t  r,  K  s. 


If 


1  : 


^:    "l 


•  i: 


iuiiicr-li'.ilcs  on  ;ill  sides,  so  ;is  to  ;illo\v  (he  iiir  to  pass 
IVci'lv.  and  linnly  Intcd  to  its  iVo/cn  base.  To  ^iiard 
ai;aiiist  tlic  line  and  almost  inipalpahle  drill,  wliicli  in- 
sinnatt'S  itself  evervwluM'e,  and  wliieli  would  interfere 
with  tlie  oltser\ation  of  ininnte  ;tnd  sudden  elian^cs 
of  teinj)eratnre,  I  placed  a  series  of  screens  at  riiilil 
angles  to  each  other,  so  as  to  surround  the  innei- 
clunnher. 

The  thernioinet(>rs  wvw  suspended  within  the  cential 
chanduM':  a  pani  ol  <;iass  pernnited  the  liu,ht  of  our 
lanterns  to  reach  tlieni  IVoni  a  distance",  and  a  lens  and 
eve-,i;Iass  were  so  lixed  as  to  allow  us  to  ohserxc  the 
instruments  without  cominir  inside  the  screens,  'i'heir 
sensihilitv  was  such  that  when  slaiidiui;'  at  H^'  and  -'td 
helow  zero,  the  mere  approach  of  the  oI)ser\('r  caused  a 
pei'ceptihie  rise  of  the  column.  One  of  them,  a  three- 
leet  spirit  standard  hv  Taliahue,  <2;raduated  to  7(1' 
minus,  was  of  sulliciently  extended  rejiistiM*  to  he  read 
hy  ra|)id  inspection  to  tenths  of  a  dei;ree.  The  in- 
lluence  of  winds  I  did  not  wish  absolutely  to  lUMitralizt'; 
hut  1  endeavored  to  make  the  exposure  to  Ihem  so 
uit'lorm  as  to  t;ive  a  ndalive  I'esnlt  for  every  «piarler 
of  the  compass.  We  were  well  supplied  with  lh(>rmo- 
melers  of  all  varieties.*"'* 

I  had  d(>vised  a  wind-i;aufj,'e  to  he  observed  by  a  teli- 
tah'  Ik'Iow  deck;  but  we  found  that  the  condensiui;' 
moisture  so  IVo/e  around  it  as  to  cIol;'  its  motion. 

"September  .'>(),  Friday. — We  have  been  terribl\' 
aiiiioyi'd  by  rats.  Some  days  ai^o,  we  made  a  brave 
eiVort    to  smoke    them  out    with    the   vilest    im;ij;inabl(! 


'    ■i'.iii. 


I 


T  II  K      K  A   r  S. 


II! 


coiiipoimd  of  v;»|u)rs,  —  hrinistonc,  burnl  IcmIIut.  and 
arst'iiic,  —  and  s|kmiI  a  cold  ninlil  in  a  dcfk-Mvonac 
to  uivc  llu'  rxiuM'iinonl  lair  l)lav.  Unt  tlicy  snrvivcMl 
(lie  rnniii;alion.  Wo  now  (lott'rminod  to  doso  llioni 
witli  rarl)oni('  acid  gas.  Dr.  Ila\(>s  hnrnt  a  (piantilv 
of  charcoal;  and  \vc  sliut  down  llic  halclics,  alter 
pastiiiii;  nj)  (>vcry  lissnrc  that  conniuinicatcd  all  and 
startint;'  three  sto\'cs  on  the  skin  of  the  lorcpeaU. 

"As  the  pis  was  j;eneraled  with  extreme  rapidity  in 
the  conlined  area  iielow,  ureal  cant  ion  had  to  he  (>\er- 
ciscd.  Oiir  Fi'ench  cook,  !i;ood  I'ierre  Schnherl, — who 
to  a('onsid«M"ahle  share  of  hnll-headed  intrepidity  unites 
a  cominendalile  portion  o{'  professional  /eal, — stole  he- 
low,  wilhonl  niy  knowledu'e  or  consent,  to  season  a 
sonp.  Morton  lorlnnalely  saw  him  stau^crinii;  in  the 
dark;  and,  nMichini;;  him  with  <;real  dillicidly  as  he 
Icll,  hoth  weiH*  hauled  up  in  the  end, — Morion,  his 
streniith  almost  p;one,  the  cook  perlet'tly  insensihle. 

"The  next  disaster  was  of  a  i;ra\'er  sort.  I  record 
it  with  ('motions  of  mingled  awe  and  Ihanklnlness. 
We  Inive  narrowly  escaju'd  heinjj;  hnrnt  out  of  house 
and  home.  I  had  ,<;iven  orders  thai  llu'  lires,  lit  nnder 
my  own  (\ve,  should  he  reunlarly  inspected  ;  hnl  I 
IcaiMU'd  that  Pierre's  misadventure  had  made  the 
watch  pretermit  lor  a  time  openiiiiL!;  the  hatches.  As 
1  lowered  a  lantern,  whi«'h  was  e\lin,i;nished  instantly, 
a  suspicions  odor  reached  me.  as  of  hnrnini;"  wood.  I 
descended  at  once.  iJcachini;"  the  deck  of  the  fore- 
castle, my  lirst  };lance  toward  the  (ires  showed  me  that 
all  was  safe  there;   and.  thoiij;h  the  (pianlity  of  smoke 


, '  ii 


*! 


r: 


■  )  i 

I 


In-:'    ii      , 


M-tt 


'  'Vl 


m 


ii , 


120 


THE      BRIG      0  X      F I  K  E. 


still  surprised  me,  I  was  disposed  to  attribute  it  to  the 
recent  kindling.  But  at  this  moment,  while  passing 
on  my  return  near  the  door  of  the  bulkhead,  which 
leads  to  the  carpenter's  room,  the  gas  began  to  cTect 
me.  My  lantern  went  out  as  if  quenched  by  water ; 
and,  as  I  ran  by  the  bulkhead  door,  I  saw  the  deck 
near  it  a  mass  of  glowing  fire  for  some  three  feet  in 
diameter.  I  could  not  tell  how  much  farther  it  ex- 
tended; for  I  became  quite  insensible  at  the  foot  of  the 
ladder,  and  would  have  sunk  had  not  Mr.  Brooks  seen 
my  condition  and  hauled  me  out. 

"'  When  I  came  to  myself,  which  happily  was  very 
soon,  I  confided  my  fearful  secret  to  the  four  men 
around  me,  Brooks,  Ohlsen,  Blake,  and  Stevenson. 
It  was  all-important  to  avoid  confusion :  we  shut  the 
doors  of  the  galley,  so  as  to  confine  the  rest  of  tluj  crew 
and  ollicers  aft;  and  then  passed  up  \vater  from  the 
fire-hole  alongside.  It  was  done  very  noiselessly.  Ohl- 
sen and  myself  went  down  to  the  burning  deck ; 
Brooks  handed  us  in  the  Ijuckets;  and  in  less  than 
ten  minutes  we  were  in  safety.  It  was  interesting  to 
observe  the  effect  of  steam  upon  the  noxious  gas. 
Both  Ohlsen  and  myself  were  greatly  oppresse(  until 
the  first  bucket  was  poured  on;  but  as  I  did  this, 
directly  over  the  burning  coal,  raising  clouds  of  steam, 
we  at  once  experienced  relief:  the  fine  aqueous  par- 
ticles seemed  to  absorb  the  carbonic  acid  instantly. 
We  found  the  lire  had  originated  in  the  remains  of  a 
barrel  of  charcoal,  which  had  been  left  in  the  car- 
]      ter's  room,  ten   feet   from  the  stoves,  and  with  a 


,  i 


4l. 


u  a 


ANCIENT      S  L  E  D  G  E-T  K  A  C  K  S. 


1-21 


bulkhead  separating  it  tVoin  tlieni.     How  it  hud  l)eeii 
ignited   it  was   impossible   to   k 


due  to  the  dense  charge  of  Ci 


u 


now. 
bonic 


Our  sat'etv  wa 


aeu 


JiilS    w 


hifh 


surrounded  the  fire,  and  the  exclusion  of  atmospheric 
air.  When  the  hatches  were  opened,  the  llame  burst 
out  with  energy.  Our  firc-hole  was  invalua))le ;  and  I 
rejoiced  that  in  the  midst  of  our  heavy  duties,  this 
essential  of  an  Arctic  winter  harbor  had  not  been  neg- 
lected. The  ice  around  the  brig  was  already  fourteen 
inches  thick. 

'•October  1,  Saturday. — Upon  inspecting  the  scene 
of  yesterday's  operations,  we  found  twenty-eight  well- 
fed  rats  of  all  varieties  of  age.  The  cook,  though  un- 
able to  do  duty,  is  better:  I  can  hear  him  chanting 
his  Beranger  through  the  l)hinkets  in  his  bunk,  hapi)y 
over  his  holiday,  happy  to  be  happy  at  jvery  thing. 
I  had  a  larger  dose  of  carbonic  acid  even  than  he,  and 
am  suflering  considerably  with  palpitations  and  ver- 
tigo. If  the  sentimental  asphyxia  of  Parisian  char- 
coal resembles  in  its  advent  that  of  the  Arctic  zone, 
it  nuist  be,  I  think,  a  poor  way  of  dying. 

"October  3,  Monday. — On  sho^'e  to  the  southeast, 
above  the  first  terrace,  Mr.  Petersen  found  unmistake- 
able  signs  of  a  sledge-passage.  The  tracks  were 
deepl}-  impressed,  l)ut  certainly  more  than  one  season 
old.  This  adds  to  our  ho[)e  that  the  natives,  whose 
ancient  traces  we  saw  on  the  point  south  of  Godsend 
Ledge,  nnvy  return  this  winter. 


October   5,    Wednesdi 


^y- 


-I  walked  this  afternoon 


to  another  group  of  Es([uimaux  huts,  aboi't  thiee  miles 


I'  'i 


t 


* 


\\ 


'  i\- 


I     ! 


1 


i  m 


t^  '■ 


ill    .■ 

i 

■I 
1^1  li 


122 


KSQUIMAIX      HUTS. 


iVoiu  the  hrl'i'.  TIiov  are  lour  in  iiiinil)er,  loiiir  dv- 
sertc'd,  hut,  to  an  eye  unpractised  in  Arctic  antiquarian 
inductions,  in  as  good  preservation  as  a  hist  years 
tenement  at  home.  The  most  astonishing  feature  is 
the  presence  of  some  Httle  out-huts,  or,  as  I  first 
thought  them,  dog-kennels.  These  arc  aljout  four 
I'eet    hy   three    in    ground-plun.   and    some    three    leet 


:J^  - 


o  ■-■ 


vrr-  -.-^'-T^: 


i^i- 


THE       ESQUIMAUX       HUTS. 


hiiih ;  no  lar2:tM-  than  tlie  poloirs  of  the  Tchuschi 
In  shape  they  resemble  a  rude  dome ;  and  the  stones 
of  which  they  are  composed  are  of  excessive  size,  and 
evidently  selected  for  smoothness.  They  Avere,  with- 
out exception,  of  waterwashed  limestone.  They  are 
heavily  sodded  with  turf,  and  a  narrow  slab  of  clay- 
slate  serves  as  a  door.  No  doubt  they  are  human 
habitations, — retiring-chaniijers,  into  which,  away  from 
the  crowded  families  of  the  hut,  one  or  even  two  Esqui- 
maiix  have  burrowed  for  sleep. — chilly  dormitories  in 
the  winter  of  this  high  latitude.'"' 

"A  circumstanc(»  that  liapi)en(Ml  to-day  is  of  serious 


i 


11  V  Dijoriioi?  I  A. 


123 


concern  to  us.  Our  sluts  liiivc  been  addinu^  to  our 
stock.  We  have  now  on  hand  lour  reserved  pup[)ies 
of  peculiar  promise;  six  have  been  ignominiously 
drowned,  two  devoted  to  a  pair  of  mittens  for  Dr. 
Kane,  and  seven  eaten  by  tlieir  mammas.  Yester- 
day, the  mother  of  one  batch,  a  pair  of  fine  white 
pups,  showed  peculiar  symptoms.  We  recalled  the 
fact  that  for  days  past  she  had  avoided  water,  or  had 
drunk  with  spasm  and  evident  aversion;  but  hydro- 
phobia, which  is  nidvnow)!  north  of  70°,  never  occurred 
to  us.  The  animal  was  noticed  this  morninji'  wnlking 
up  and  down  the  deck  with  a  staggering  gait,  her 
head  depressed  and  her  mouth  frothing  and  tumid. 
Finally  she  snapped  at  Petersen,  and  fell  foaming  and 
biting  at  his  feet.  lie  reluctantly  pronounced  it 
hydrophobia,  and  .idvised  me  to  shoot  her.  The  {id- 
vice  was  well-timed :  I  had  hardly  cleared,  the  deck 
before  she  snapped  at  Hans,  the  Esquimaux,  and 
recommenced  her  walking  trot.  It  was  quite  an 
anxious  moment  to  me  ;  lor  mv  Newfoundlanders  were 
around  the  housing,  and  the  hatches  open.  We  shot 
her,  of  course. 

"October  G,  Thursdav. — The  hares  arc  less  numerous 
than  they  were.  They  seek  the  coast  when  the  snows 
fall  in  the  interior,  and  the  late  southeast  wind  has 
probably  favored  their  going  back.  These  aniniiils  are 
not  equal  in  si/e  either  to  the  European  hare  or  their 
brethren  of  the  Norlh  American  continent.  The  latter, 
Mccordimr  to  Seamann,  weiuh  uiion  an  avoraue  fourteen 
pounds.      A   large   male,  the    largest    seen    by   us    in 


i  1 


;:^i 


'  i 


I     r 


4 


r! 


I 


!        1 


)i  5 


1 


■  I  U 


tf 

'^  It 


I 


0 


ill, 


i    :   1 


124 


SLEDG  K-I)U  1  VI  NG. 


Siiiitir.s  Sound,  weighed  l)ut  nine;  and  our  average  so 
fur  does  not  exceed  seven  and  a  hall'.  They  measure 
generally  less  by  some  inches  in  length  than  those 
noticed  by  Dr.  Richardson.  Mr.  Toterscn  is  quite  suc- 
eesslul  in  shooting  these  hares :  we  have  a  stock  of 
fourteen  now  on  hand. 

"We  have  been  building  stone  traps  on  the  hills  for 
the  foxes,  whose  traces  we  see  there  in  abundance,  and 
have  determined  to  organize  a  regular  hunt  as  soon  as 
they  give  us  the  chance. 

'•October  8,  Saturday. — I  have  been  practising  witli 
my  dog-sledge  and  an  Esquimaux  team  till  my  arms 
ache.  To  drive  such  an  equipage  a  certain  proficiency 
with  the  whip  is  indispensable,  which,  like  all  pro- 
ficiency, must  be  worked  for.  In  fact,  the  weapon  has 
an  exercise  of  its  own,  quite  peculiar,  and  as  hard  to 
learn  as  sirigle-stick  or  broadsword. 

"  The  whip  is  six  yards  long,  and  the  handle  but  six- 
teen inches, — a  short  lever,  of  course,  to  throw  out  such 
a  length  of  seal-hide.  Learn  to  do  it,  however,  with  a 
masterly  sweep,  or  else  make  up  your  mind  to  forego 
driving  sledge ;  for  the  dogs  are  guided  solely  by  the 
lash,  and  you  must  be  able  not  only  to  hit  any  particu- 
lar dog  out  of  a  team  of  twelve,  j^ut  to  accompany  the 
feat  also  with  a  resounding  crack.  After  this,  you  find 
that  to  get  your  lash  back  involves  another  difficulty; 
for  it  is  apt  to  entangle  itself  among  the  dogs  and  lines, 
or  to  fasten  itself  cunningly  round  bits  of  ice,  so  as  to 
drag  you  head  over  heels  into  the  snow. 

"The  secret  by  which  this  complicated  set  of  recpiire- 


me 
iVoi 
the 


.4l 


anus 


uire- 


M  U  S  K     ox     TRACKS. 


I'li 


monts  is  ruHilled  c».  isists  in  i)r()[)orly  describing  an  arc 
from  the  shoulder,  with  a  still' elljow,  giving  the  jerk  to 
the  whip-handle  from  the  hand  and  wrist  alone.  The 
lash  trails  behind  as  you  travel,  and  when  thrown  for- 
ward is  allowed  to  extend  itself  without  an  elfort  to 
bring  it  back.  You  wait  patiently  after  giving  the  pro- 
jectile impulse  until  it  unwinds  its  slow  length,  reaches 
the  end  of  its  tether,  and  cracks  to  tell  you  that  it  is 
at  its  journey's  end.  Such  a  crack  on  the  ear  or  fore- 
foot of  an  unfortunate  dog  is  signalized  by  a  howl  quite 
unmistakeable  in  its  import. 

"  The  mere  labor  of  using  this  whip  is  such  that  the 
Esfjuimaux  travel  in  couples,  one  sledge  after  tlio  other. 
The  hinder  dogs  follow  mechanically,  and  thus  recpiire 
no  whip ;  and  the  drivers  change  about  so  as  to  rest 
each  other. 

"  I  have  annised  myself,  if  not  my  dogs,  for  some  days 
past  wdth  this  formidable  accessory  of  Arctic  travel.  1 
have  not  quite  got  the  knack  of  it  yet,  though  I  might 
venture  a  trial  of  cracking  against  the  postillion  college 
of  Lonjumeau. 

"Octoljer  9,  Sunday. — Mr.  Petersen  shot  n,  hare  yes- 
terday. They  are  very  scarce  now,  for  he  travelled 
some  live  hours  without  seeing  another.  lie  makes  the 
important  report  of  musk  ox  tracks  oil  the  recent  snow. 
Dr.  Kichardson  says  that  these  aro  scarcely  distinguish- 
able from  the  reindeer's  except  by  the  practised  eye : 
he  characterizes  them  as  larger,  but  not  wider.  The 
tracks  that  Petersen  saw  had  an  interesting  confnina- 
tion  of  their  being  those  of  the  musk  ox,  for  they  were 


•  (• 


■II 


: 


11: 


V 

Si';., 


i: 


li       , 


m 


:.i\ 


1-1       1    ! 


126 


A     S  L  K  D  G  E      1'  A  U  T  Y. 


'•^-•■u 


; 


accoiupanied  by  a  socund  set  ol'  lootprints,  evidently  be- 
longing to  a  young  one  of  tiie  .same  species,  and  about 
as  large  as  a  middle-sized  reindeer's.  IJotli  impressions 
also  were  marked  as  if  by  hair  growing  from  the  pastern 
joint,  for  behind  the  hoof  was  a  line  brushed  in  the 
snow/''^"^ 

"To-day  Hans  brought  in  another  hare  he  had  shot. 
Ho  saw  .«  '"i  I'enideer  in  a  large  valley  oil'  Bedevilled 
Reach,  ant;  vo\.rdcd  one  of  them.  This  looks  pro- 
mising for  our  winiCx'  commissariat. 

"October  10,  Monday. — Our  depot  party  has  been 
out  twenty  days,  and  it  is  time  they  were  back :  their 
provisions  must  have  run  very  low,  for  I  enjoined 
them  to  leave  every  pound  at  the  depot  they  could 
spare.  I  am  going  out  with  supplies  to  look  after  them. 
I  take  four  of  our  best  Newfoundlanders,  now  well 
broken,  in  our  lightest  sledge ;  and  Blake  will  accom- 
pany me  with  his  skates.  We  have  not  hands  enough 
to  equip  a  sledge  party,  and  the  ice  is  too  unsound  for 
us  to  attempt  to  ride  with  a  large  team.  The  thermo- 
meter is  still  four  degrees  above  zero." 


4 

1 


CHAPTER  XII. 

LEAPING  A  CHASM  —  THE  ICK-IJKLT  —  CAPE  WILLIAM  WOOD  — 
CAMP  ON  THE  FLOES  —  UETUI."  OF  DEPOT  PAUTY-  JONSALL's 
ADVENTURE  —  RESULTS  —  AN  ESCAPE — THE  THIRD  C.CHE  — 
McOARY   ISLAND. 

I  FOUND  little  or  no  trouble  in  crossing  the  ice  until 
we  passed  beyond  the  northeast  headland,  ,»liich  I  iiave 
named  Cape  William  Wood.  But,  on  emerg:ing  into 
the  channel,  we  found  that  the  spring  tides  had  ])rokeii 
up  the  great  area  around  us,  and  that  the  passage  of 
the  sledge  was  interrupted  by  fissures,  which  Avere 
beginning  to  break  in  every  direction  through  the 
young  ice. 

My  first  effort  was  of  course  to  reach  the  land ;  but 
it  was  unfortunately  low  tide,  and  the  ice-belt  rose  up 
before  me  like  a  wall.  The  pack  was  becoming  more 
and  more  unsafe,  and  I  was  extremely  anxious  to  gain 
au  asylum  on  shore ;  for,  though  it  was  easy  to  find  a 
temporary  refuge  by  retreating  to  the  old  floes  which 
studded  the  more  recent  ice,  I  knew  that  in  doing  so 
we  should  risk  being  carried  down  bv  the  drift. 

The  dogs  began  to  flag ;  but  we  had  to  press  them  : — 

lliT 


i:'ii^ 


1 1'  V 


1 1: 


i 


h\ 


■, 


><  : 


1 
1  i 


1  i,  r 


I      'i 


\l 


\    m 


1    i: 


ii    . 


„,^ 


I' 


I    ! 


128 


LEA1'1.\(;      A     CHASM. 


we  were  on 


lyt 


WO  mt'ii ;   Jiiid,  ill  the  event  of  the  ani- 


mals  lailing   to    lea[)    any  ol'   the    ra[!i(il\-nnilti[)lyin,y 
iissiM'es,  we  could  hardly  e\[)e<'t  to  extricate  our  laden 


slcdj 


Th 


;  times  in  less  than  three  hours  my  shaft 
or  hinder  dogs  wont  in  ;  and  John  and  myself,  who  had 
been  trotting  alongside  the  sledge  for  sixteen  miles, 
were  nearly  as  tired  us  they  were.  This  state  of 
things  could  not  last;  and  1  therefore  made  for  the  old 
ice  to  seaward. 

We  were  nearing  it  rapidl}',  when  the  dogs  faileil  in 
leaping  a  chasm  that  was  somewhat  wider  than  the 
others,  and  the  whole  concern  came  down  in  the  water. 
I  cut  the  lines  instant!}',  and,  with  the  aid  of  my  com- 
panion, hauled  the  poor  animals  out.  We  owed  the 
preservation  of  the  sledge  to  their  admirable  ilocility 
and  perseverance.  The  tin  cooking-apparatus  iind  the 
air  confined  in  the  India-rubber  coverings  kept  it  alloat 
till  we  could  succeed  in  fastening  a  couple  of  seal-skin 
cords  to  the  cross-pieces  at  the  front  and  back.  By 
these  John  and  myself  were  able  to  give  it  an  uncertain 
support  from  the  two  edges  of  the  opening,  till  the  dogs, 
after  many  fruitless  struggles,  carried  it  forward  at  last 
upon  the  ice. 

Although  the  thermometer  was  below  zero,  and  in 
our  wet  state  we  ran  a  considerable  risk  of  freezing, 
the  urgency  of  our  position  left  no  room  for  thoughts 
of  cold.  We  started  at  a  run,  men  and  dogs,  for  the 
solid  ice ;  and  bv  the  time  we  had  uained  it  we  were 
steaming  in  the  cold  atmosphere  like  a  couple  of 
Nootka  Sound  vapor-baths. 


This 


T  II  i:      ICK-H  K  I,  T, 


rjo 


We  rested  on  tlic  Hoc.  We  could  not  rtiisc  our  tent, 
ll>r  it  liiid  IVo/.en  iis  hard  as  a  sliiiiLdc.  Hut  oni'  NuH'alo- 
robc  bail's  gave  us  protection;  and,  tliouuli  we  wore  too 
wet  inside  to  bo  absolutely  coinl'ortablc,  we  nnma^cd  to 


ICEBELT      OF      OCTOBER. 


get  soniothinjj;  like  sloop  before  it  was  light  enough  ibr 
us  to  move  oij  again. 

The  jourr.oy  was  continued  in  the  same  way;  but 
wc  found  to  our  u'veat  Ln'atification  that  tlio  cracks 
closed  with  the  chang''  of  the  tide,  and  at  high-water 
wc  succoodcd  in  uainiuLi'  the  ice-belt  nndor  the  clifl's. 
Tills  bolt  had  changed  very  much  since  my  journey  ii» 

Vol,.  !.—'.» 


I 


II I 


y-'\ 


W 


»!: 


I;i^ 


*■.  ! 


4\ 


I 


ij 


ill 


^fl 


.1    I 


'i 


i  1 


l:]0 


(•  A  r  i;    w  I  1. 1. 1  A  M    woo  1). 


S('|ttt'm)j('r.  'V\\v  tidt's  and  iVosts  touctlicr  had  ('(nitnl 
it  with  \vv  MS  smooth  as  satin,  and  tliis  ;^loss_v  coxcriMii 
made  it  an  cxcidlfiit  road.  The  dills  discliaiyctl  rcwcr 
rra,i:'m(.'iits  in  our  patli,  and  tiu'  roi'i\s  of  our  hist  Jour- 
lu'v's  cxjK'i'icncc  were  now  iVimicd  witii  iciidcs.  1  saw 
with  jiivat  [)U'asur('  thai  tins  ii'c-lK'lt  wouhl  serve  as  a 
hiiiiiwaN   for  our  I'utui'e  oiu'rations. 

The  iMLihts  which  I'ollowed  were  not  so  had  as  one 
wouhl  su[)[)ose  lV(tm  tiie  satnrati'd  condition  of  our 
('([uipment.  l']va[)oration  is  not  so  inai)[)reciahle  in  (his 
Arctic  region  as  some  theorists  imai-ine.  JJv  alter- 
natelv  e\[)osinu'  the  tent  and  furs  to  the  air,  and  heat- 
ing" the  ice  out  of  them,  we  dried  them  enough  to  pei- 
nut  sleep.  The  dogs  sle[)t  in  the  tent  with  us.  gi\  Imi 
it  warmth  as  well  as  IVagrance.  Wliat  perfumes  of 
nature  lire  lost  lit  home  upon  our  ungruteful  senses  I 
IIowMve  relished  the  com[)anionship ! 

We  had  iiveraged  twenty  miles  a  dav  since  leaviuL^ 
the  hrig,  and  were  wdthln  a  short  march  of  the  ca[)e 
which  r  have  named  AVilliiim  Wood,  when  a  hroad 
chasm  hrou^ht  us  to  a  halt.  It  was  in  vain  that  we 
worked  out  to  seaward,  or  dived  into  the  shoreward 
recesses  of  the  hay:  the  ice  everywher  *  presented  the 
same  im[)assahle  lissures.  We  had  no  alternative  hut 
to  retrace  our  ste[)s  and  seek  among  the  hergs  some 
[)lace  of  security.  We  I'oiind  a  camp  for  the  night  on 
the  old  lloe-ices  to  the  westward,  uaininii'  them  some 
time  after  the  darkness  had  closed  in. 

On  the  morning  of  the  loth,  ahout  two  hours  he- 
lore  the  late  sunrise,  as  I  was   preparing  to  climb  a 


secK 


nm-. 


MI'    OX    Till:    ri,()Ks. 


i:;i 


Ihtlt  iVoiii  wliicli  I  iiMLiht  li;i\('  a  siulit  of  tlio  road 
alicail.  I  ]H'r(('i\<'(l  lai-  oil'  upon  the  white  simw  a  dark 
ol»j«'('t,  wliicli  not  only  iiiommI.  hut  altered  its  shape 
straniiflv, — now  cxnandinn'  into  a  lonu'  liiaeU  line, 
now  wasin;^',  now  !iatherin.n'  itself  np  into  a  compact 
mass.  It  was  the  returnm,!;'  sledu'e  party.  They  had 
seen  (mv  black  tent  ol"  Ki'dar,  and  ferried  across  to 
scel\  it. 

Tliev  wore  most  welcome  ;   foi'  their  ahsence.  in  the 


CAMP      ON      THE       FLOES. 


fearluUy  open  state  of  the  ice.  had  filled  me  with 
apprehensions.  We  conld  not  distinjiiiish  each  other 
as  we  drew  near  in  the  twiliuiit;  and  mv  lirst  uood 
news  of  them  was  when  I  heard  that  they  were  singl- 
ing. On  they  Ciinie,  and  at  last  I  was  able  to  connt 
their  voices,  one  by  one.  Thaidc  God,  seven!  Poor 
John  li.  d<o  was  so  breathless  with  uratnlation,  that 
I  conld  not  uet  him  to  blow  his  siiinal-horn.  We 
uave  them,  instead,  the  uood  old  Anu'lo-Saxon  iireet- 
ing,  ''three  cheers!"  and  in  a  few  minntes  were  among 
them. 


'v 

I 

} 


ii' 


i  ■ 


■■! 

■'1 

i-    i  ': 

'  '  >i      i 


:i     I 


i 

1  ^ 

ll 

1 

1 

1           ; 

1 

!i 
j 

k 

id 

m  i^. 

la: 


RETURN      OF      DKl'UT      1' A  K  T  Y 


'r 


U'V  M 


1(1  Iliad 


I'  a  ('!•('( 


lital.l 


(' joiM'iicv,  and  \v   w,  on  tin 


1 


th 


whole,  ill  good  condi' 'Oil.  Tlu'V  had  no  injuiirs  worth 
talking  about,  although  not  a  iiuiii  had  escaped  some 
touches  of  the  frost.  ]?oiisall  was  minus  a  big  toe-nail, 
and  plus  a  scar  upon  the  nose.  McGary  had  attempted, 
as  Tom  Ilickey  told  us.  io  plnvk  a  Ibx,  it  being  so  Irozeii 
as  to  defy  skinning  by  his  knife;  and  his  lingers  had 
been  tolerably  frost-bitten  in  the  operation.  "They're 
very  horny,  sir,  are  my  lingers,"  said  McCJary,  who  was 
worn  down  to  a  mere  shadow  of  bis  former  rotundity; 
"very  horny,  and  they  water  u[)  like  bladders."  The 
rest  had  suilered  in  their  feet;  l)iit,  like  good  tellows. 
postponed  limping  until  they  reached  the  slii[). 

Within  the  last  three  days  they  had  marched  lifty- 
four  miles,  or  eighteen  a  day.  Their  sledge  being 
empty,  and  the  young  ice  north  of  Cajie  IJancroIl 
smooth  as  a  mirror,  they  had  travelled,  the  day  before 
we  met  them,  nearly  twenty-live  miles.  A  very  re- 
markable pace  for  men  who  had  been  twenty-eight 
days  in  the  field. 

My  supplies  of  hot  food,  coffee,  and  marled  beef 
soup,  which  I  had  brought  with  me,  were  very  oppor- 
tune. They  had  almost  exhausted  their  bread;  and, 
being  unwilling  to  encroach  on  the  depot  stores,  had 
gone  without  fuel  in  order  to  save  alcohol.  Leaving 
orders  to  place  my  own  sledge  stores  in  ta<'1u\  I  re- 
turned to  the  brig,  ahead  of  the  i)arty,  with  my  dog- 
sledge,  carrying  Mr.  Bonsall  with  me. 

On  this  return  I  had  much  less  dillicultv  with  the 


Th 


fifty- 


-eight 


]{  ()  N  S  A  L  L   S      A  D  V  E  N  T  U  K  E. 


13: 


NEWFOUNDLAND      Onc.       TEAM. 


icc-cnioks;  my  team  of  Newfoundlanders  leaping  them 
in  ahnost  every  instance,  and  the  im[)ulse  of  our 
sledge  earrying  it  across.  On  one  occasion,  wliile  we 
were  making  these  Hying  leaps,  poor  IJonsall  was 
tossed  out,  and  came  very  near  being  carried  under 
hv  the  rapid  tide.  lie  fortunately  caught  the  runner 
of  the  sledge  as  he  fell,  and  1  succeeded,  by  whipping 
up  the  dogs,  in  hauling  him  out.  lie  was,  of  course, 
wet  to  the  skin ;  but  we  were  only  twenty  miles  fi'om 
the  brig,  and  he  sustained  no  serious  injury  from  his 
innnersion. 


I  ! 


•P 


'.i 

1 

1 

ill  [ 

'^ 

1 

m' 

i 

•      i. 

i)| 

1, 

f  1 

:■  1 

',1 1 

i 

'. 

1 

' ':  I 


t;  '  I 


134 


G  K  X  i:  11  A  L     li  E  S  U  L  T  S. 


I  return  to  my  joiiniul. 

"The  spar-tleck — or,  as  we  call  it  IVoin  its  wooden 
covering,  the  'House' — is  steainiuLi'  with  the  hnlliilo- 
roljes,  tents,  hoots,  socks,  and  heterogeneous  costuni- 
ings  of  our  returned  parties.  We  have  ample  woik 
in  repairing  these  and  restoring  the  disturbed  order 
of  our  domestic  life.  The  men  leel  the  ell'ects  of  their 
journe}',  but  are  very  content  in  their  comfortable 
quarters.  A  pack  of  cards,  grog  at  dinner,  and  the 
promise  of  Ji  three  days'  holidaj',  have  made  the  decks 
happy  with  idleness  and  laughter." 

I  give  the  general  results  of  the  party;  referring 
to  the  Appendix  for  the  detailed  account  of  Messrs. 
McGary  and  Bonsall. 

They  left  the  brig,  as  may  be  remembered,  on  the 
20th  of  September,  and  they  reached  Cape  Russell  on 
the  25th.  Near  this  spot  I  had,  iv  :'iy  former  jour- 
ney of  reconnoissanoe,  established  .  cairn ;  and  here, 
as  by  previously-concerted  arrangement,  they  left  their 
first  cache  of  pemniican,  together  with  some  bread  and 
alcohol  for  fuel. 

On  the  28th,  after  crossing  a  large  bay,  they  met  a 
low  cape  about  thirty  miles  to  the  northeast  of  the 
first  depot.  Here  they  made  a  second  cache  of  a  hun- 
dred and  ten  pounds  t)i'  l)eef  and  pemmican,  and  about 
thirty  of  a  mixture  of  pennnican  and  Indian  meal,  with 
a  bag  of  l)read. 

The  day  being  too  i^o'^'^y  for  sextant  ol)servations  for 
position,  or  even  for  a  reliable  view  of  the  landmnrks. 
they    built  a  substantial  cairn,   and   buried   the    pro- 


;s 


(J  !•:  N  E  U  A  1.      K  i;  8  U  L  T  S. 


13 


O'J 


vision  iit  Ji  di.stiuu'o  of  ten  paces  Iroin  its  contiv, 
bearing  by  compass,  E.  by  N.  i  N.  The  point  on 
which  this  caclic  stood  1  >subsetjnontly  named  alter 
Mr.  IJonsall,  one  of  the  indefatigable  leaders  of  the 
piirty. 

1  will  give  the  geographical  ontline  of  the  track  of 
this  party  in  a  snbseipient  part  of  this  narrative,  when 
I  liave  spoken  of  the  after-travel  and  snrveys  which 
('<)niirmed  and  defined  it.  lint  I  should  do  injustice 
both  to  th'  ir  exertions  and  to  the  results  of  them, 
were  I  to  o  nit  mention  of  the  dilRcnlties  which  iliey 
encountered. 

On  the  twenty-fifth  day  of  their  outward  journey 
tli«'y  met  a  great  glacier,  which  I  shall  describe  here- 
after. It  checked  their  course  along  the  Greenland 
coast  al)ruptly ;  l)ut  they  still  endeavored  to  make 
tlK'ir  way  outside  its  edge  to  seaward,  with  iim  com- 
mendable object  of  seeking  a  more  northcn'n  point  for 
the  provision  depot.  This  journey  was  along  the  base 
of  an  icy  wall,  which  constantly  threw  off  its  dis- 
charging Ijergs,  breaking  up  the  ice  for  miles  around, 
and  compi'lling  the  party  to  ^lixcy  themselves  and  their 
sledg'i  over  the  cracks  by  rafts  of  ice. 

One  of  these  incidents  I  give  nearly  in  the  language 
of  Mr.  Bonsidl. 

They  had  camped,  on  the  night  of  •')th  Oct<)l)er, 
imdcr  the  lee  of  some  large  icebergs,  and  vrithin  hear- 
ing of  the  grand  artillery  of  tiie  glacier.  'I'Ik-  tloe  on 
which  their  tent  was  pitched  was  of  recent  and  trans- 
parent ice;   and   the  party,  too    fired   to  seek  a  safer 


Ti 


■I 

Si 


1 


I   I    I 


'1 

V 

1 

i 

; 

i 

1 

■■' 

1 

1 

J 

,  1^ 

,         i 

'  i  ■  ,1  ! 
1.1 

■■':    : 

II 


'..>,! 


!  i 


r%   ' 


'i  I 


i;U) 


A  N      KSC  A  I'l: 


11,    Willi 


til 


ClJlCk 


iisyluiu,  IukI  turned  in  to  rest;  wlie 
like  the  snap  of  a  <'i,ii{intie  wlii[),  the  ice  openeJ  (iireetly 
benejitli  them.  This  was,  as  nearly  as  they  could 
estimate  the  time,  at  about  one  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing. The  darkness  was  intense;  and  the  cold,  about 
10°  below  zero,  was  increased  by  a  wind  which  blew 
from  the  northeast  over  the  liiacier.  They  gathered 
together  their  tent  tind  slee[)ing  lurs,  and  laslu'd  them, 
according  to  the  best  of  their  ability,  u[)on  the  sledge. 


CAM  I'      USUlM      uLAClLK-oCTOUtK      ^I^TH. 

Ke|)eated  intonations  warni'd  them  that  the  ice  was 
l)reaking  up;  a  swell,  evidently  produced  by  the  ava- 
lanches from  the  glacier,  caused  the  j)hitf()rm  on  which 
thev  stood  to  rock  to  and  fro. 

Mr.  McCJary  derived  a  hoi)e  from  the  stable  charac- 
ter of  the  bergs  near  them:   they  were  evidently  lU't 


'^ 


'hai'iic 


T  II  i:    T  II 1  n  I)    ('  AC  II  !•: 


ir,7 


{ulrilt.  Ill'  (IctiTininc'l  to  select  m  ili(f  piece  >A'  ico, 
place  the  sleiljic  iii)()n  it,  and.  by  the  aid  of  tent-polos 
and  I'ookinji-ntensils,  paddle  to  the  old  and  linu  fields 
which  cluni;'  to  the  bases  of  the  l>ei'iis.  The  party 
waited  in  anxious  expt'ctation  until  the  returninij;  day- 
light permitted  this  atteni[)t ;  and,  after  a  most  ad- 
venturous passage,  succeeded  in  reaching  the  desired 
position. 

iMy  main  object  in  sending  them  out  was  the  de- 
posit of  provisions,  and  1  had  not  (leemed  it  a(l\  isable 
to  comi)licate  their  duties  bv  anv  organization  lor  a 
survey.  They  reached  their  ITmhest  latitude  on  the 
(1th  of  October;  and  this,  as  determined  by  dead 
I'lrkoning,  was  in  hititude  7'J°-")()',  and  longitiule  7(J''2U'. 
From  this  point  they  sighted  and  took  sextant  Ix'ar- 
iugs  of  land  to  the  north,'^'  having  a  trend  or  inclinar 
tion  west  by  north  and  east  by  south,  at  an  estimated 
distance  of  thirty  miles.  They  were  at  this  time  en- 
tangled in  the  icebergs;  and  it  was  from  the  lofty 
smumit  of  one  of  these,  in  the  midst  of  a  scene  of 
sur[)assing  desohition,  that  they  made  their  observti- 
dons. 

Tlioy  began  the  third  or  linal  cache,  wliich  was  the 
main  object  of  the  journey,  on  the  lOth  of  October; 
placing  it  on  a  low    island   at  the   base  of  the   large 


*  I  iiKiy  mention  that  the  resuUs  of  their  observations  were  not  used 
in  the  construction  nt'our  charts,  except  their  interesting  sextant  bear- 
inj^s.  Tiioso  were  both  numerous  and  valuable,  but  not  sastained  at 
the  tinu'  by  satistactury  astronomical  observations  for  position. 


1 

'           1 

'r! 

i 

'  i 

M>r 


I ,  t' 


J:i 


Hi 


ii' 


i'    ^J 


i^ 


-r 


ii      ' 


ir>8 


M  '  G  A  U  V      IS  I.  A  N  D. 


'I 


glacier  which  ciiocked  their  I'lirther  imirch  jUoug  the 
coast. 

JJcforc  acl()[)tin<^  this  site,  they  liad  persoveringly 
skirted  the  l)ase  of  the  ghieier,  in  a  fruitless  eflort  to 
cross  it  to  the  north.  In  spito  of  distressing  cold,  and 
the  nearly  constant  winds  from  the  ice-clothed  shore, 
they  carried  (jnt  all  nij  instructions  for  securing  this 


important  depot.  The  stores  were  carefully  huried  in 
a  natural  excavation  among  tlie  dills;  and  heavy 
rocks,  hronght  with  great  lal)or,  were  piled  ahove 
them.  Smaller  stones  were  placed  over  these,  and 
incorporated  into  one  solid  mass  by  a  mixture  of  sand 
and  water.  The  })ower  of  the  hear  in  breaking 
up  a  provision  cache  is  extraordinary;  but  the  Es- 
quimaux to  the  sonth  had  assured  me  that  frozen 
sand  and  water,  which  would  wear  away  the  ani- 
mafs  claws,  were  more  oflective  against  him  than 
the  largest  rocks.  Still,  knowing  how^  nmcli  troul)le 
the  ofl'-.  TVS  of  ('onnnodore  Austin's  Expedition  ex- 
perienced I'rom  the  destruction  of  their  caches,  I  had 
ordered  the  party  to  resort  to  a  combination  of  these 
expedients.^-'^"''^ 

They  l)uried  here  six  hundred  and  seventy  pounds 
of  pemmican,  forty  of  IJonlen's  nu'at  biscuit,  and  some 
ariicles  ef  uvneral  diet:  making  a  total  of  about  eight 
hundred  [)o;?n(ls.  Tiny  indicated  the  site  l»y  a  large 
caii'n.  hearing  E.  i  8.  from  the  cache,  and  at  the  dis- 
tance of  thirty  paces.  The  landmarks  of  the  cairn 
itself  were  sulliciently  evident,  but  were  afterwards 
fixed  by  bearings,  lor  additional  certainty. 


I 

i 


Ml 


I  along  the 


rsovcringly 
ss  eftort  to 
g  cold,  and 
tiled  shore, 
'cnrinii:  this 
y  hnried  in 
and  heavy 
)iled  al)()ve 
tlu'se.  and 
nre  of  sand 
1  hrenking 
)nt  the  Es- 
that  frozen 
y  the  ani- 
hini  than 
K'h  tronl)le 
edition  ex- 
slies,  I  had 
on  of  these 

nty  pounds 

t,  {ind  some 

aI)ont  eight 

])V  a  hu'ire 

at  the  dis- 

f  tile   eairn 

ai'terwards 


I 


M  '  G  A  II  y     I  s  L  A  X  I). 


130 


The  island  wiiieh  was  so  judiciously  selected  as  the 
seat  of  this  ca(!he  was  named  after  my  faithful  friend 
and  excellent  second  oflicer,  Mr.  James  McGary,  of 
New  London, 


wcGARY's    Cache. 


•    ( 


^ 


Si 


1    ii 


1         i'^ 


)l 


!i 


Ii 


j 

i 

■ 

( 

1 

I:! 


lii 


,  '■■li 


-'  I 


1 

i 

k 

1 
r 

1, 

CIIAPTKU   XIII. 

WALRUS-HOLKS  —  ADVANTK  t>F  1»A1<KM;ss  —  DAHKNKSS  —  TIIK  ('t)I.l) 
— "TIIK  ICK-IJMNK" — FUX-("I1ASK — li.Mil  IMALX  HUTS — OCUUl/l'A- 
TlUN    UL'    .SATUUN — I'OHTIIAIT    OF    OLD    (illlM. 

"OcToiniit  lis,  Friday. — TIk*  moon  has  ivjiclied  hvv 
iTivatest  iiortheni  decliiiatioii  of  about  25°  .")•')'.  Slio  is 
;i  glorious  ol)jt'ct :  s\vec'})iiig  around  tlio  liCcivciis,  at  tlir 
lowest  })art  of  her  curve,  «lio  is  still  14°  ;i)x)ve  the 
horizon.  For  eight  days  she  has  been  making  her  cir- 
cuit with  nearly  unvarying  brightness.  It  is  one  of 
those  sparkling  nights  that  bring  back  the  memory  of 
sleigh-bells  and  songs  and  glad  communings  of  hearts 
in  lands  tliut  are  fur  awav. 

''Our  fires  and  ventilatioii-fixtin-es  are  so  arranged 
that  we  are  able  to  keep  a  mean  temperature  ))el()w 
of  0-3°,  and  on  deck,  under  our  housing,  above  the 
freezing-point.  This  is  admirable  success;  for  the 
weather  outside  is  at  2-j°  below  zero,  and  there  is  quite 
a  little  breeze  ])lowing. 

•■The  last  renmant  of  walrus  did  not  leave  us  until 
the  second  week  of  last  month,  when  the  temperature 
had    suidt    below    zero.      Till    then    they    found    o})en 

110 


TIIK    COLD 
-OCCULTA- 


'llL'd     luT 

She  is 
IS.  at  the 
lx)ve  the 
5  her  cir- 
i  one  of 
MHorv  ol' 
)f  hearts 

arranged 
re  l)elow 
)()ve  tlie 
lor  the 
3  is  quite 

us  until 
iperature 
nd    oi)en 


,  I 


■ii" 


^ii; 


M 


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.'■  i   , 


i 


ilf 


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1 


.1       I 


;ll  i 


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4  M 


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a"^. 


I  .1 


,l  ti 

i;-t! 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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1.0 


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1^  IM 

::  i:£  11 2.0 


1.8 


11.25 

1.4 

1.6 

-^ 6"     — 

► 

Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


&0      m^'^ 


,  ^ItfiaBsaBegtMM 


'     I 


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i. 


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M 


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W  A  I-  1{  V  S-ll  n  LKS. 


141 


water  enou,irli  to  sport  and  even  sleep  in,  l)etween 
tlie  fields  of  drift,  as  they  opened  with  the  tide;  hut 
they  had  worked  numerous  breathing-holes  besides,  in 
the  S(jlid  ice  nearer  shore. "•'  Many  of  these  were  in- 
side the  capes  of  Rensselaer  Harbor.  They  had  the 
same  circular,  cleanly-linished  margin  as  the  seals', 
but  they  were  in  much  thicker  ice,  and  the  radiating 


'ifr 


111! 


iM, 


i 


';!!■ 


',i:\   ■ 


!  ! 


I   .      :•    ■! 


!  ' 


WALIl'S      ?PCRTlNG. 


lines  of  fracture  round  them  much  more  marked. 
The  animal  evidently  used  his  own  buoyancy  as  ji 
means  of  starting  the  ice. 

"  Around  these  holes  the  ice  was  much  discolored  : 


' 


!•' 


*  The  walms  often  sleeps  ou  the  surface  of  the  water  while  his 
fellows  are  playiujj;  around  him.  In  this  eondition  I  freciueiitly  sur- 
prised the  young  ones,  whose  mothers  were  asleep  by  their  side. 


1 

m; 

1 

f 

1 

i 

1 

!      ■     I 


l|i']  i 


1       ' 

1      . 

1 

!      ■ 

1 

1 

\  ^''  • 

iM 

■iUl-a 

^1 

11 -2 


A  I)  V  A  .N  ('  K      t)  V      I)  A  K  K  N  K  S  S, 


iiiiiiilK'rs  ol"  lii'okcii  claiii-sliclls  wci'c  loiiiul  iiciii'  tlicin. 
and,  in  iic  Iiistaiicc,  .^omc  ':ra\cl.  iniii^lcil  with  about 
liair  a.  |)('ck  of  lln'  coarse  sliinulc  oi"  tlie  iK'acli.  Tlic 
use  ol"  tlic  sloiu's  wliicli  llic  wali'iis  swallows  is  still 
an  iiilcrcstiiig  (|iu'slioii.  'I'lic  iissiik  or  bearded  seal 
has  the  same  hahit. 

••Noveiiiher  7,  Mondav. — 'I'he  daikiiess  is  coniin,;^'  on 
with  insidious  steadiness,  and  its  advances  can  only  he 


7 


A. 


itr-^' 


I 

\ 
A 


J 


f 

I 

y 

^<^ 

i.  - 

•A 

\ 

VALHUSHOLr 

^-■ 

J., 

.--       J 

..-^-;^-,, 

^'K 

1      ^ 

/ 

'"r 

S>   . 

' 

/ 

\ 

/ 

'  \ 

}> 

1 

[)erceive(l  hy  coni])arin^'  one  day  with  its  Cellow  of  some 
time  hack.  We  still  read  the  thermometer  at  noonday 
without  a  li.iiiit,  ;ind  the  black  masses  of  the  hills  are 
[)lain  Cor  about  five  hours  with  their  ghirin,<i;  patches 
of  snow;  but  a>U  the  rest  is  darkness.  Ltmterns  are 
alwajs  on  the  s[)ar-(leck,  and  tlu'  lai'd-lamps  never  ex- 
tinL-uished  below.  The  stars  of  the  sixth  ma'-'uitude 
shine  out  at  noonday. 

"Except  upon  the  island  of  S[)itzberi>en.  which  has 


^ 


I)  A 


x  I-;  s  s. 


ii; 


till'  ;i(l\  ;iiita,Li('S  ol"  an  insular  ciinKitc  and  hMnpcrcd   \)y 
occiiii  ciu'rcnts.  no  ('hristians  jia\('  wintered  in  so  liiuli 


a  lalitude  as  tlii,> 


'Idi 


\v\  are  Ivussian  sailors  wlio  make 


the  encounter  there,  men   iiuired   to  hardships  and  cold. 
1  cannol  hei[)  t  liiid^im;'  of  the  satl  (d  iron  ides  of  (he  early 


^  ^^i^fei^-- 


NOONDAY      IN      NOVCMUER. 


l-i! 


if   !! 


'ii! 


'I'M 


m 


W. 


X 


^fu 


-  • 


Dutidi,  ujio  perished   \eaf  al'ier  \ear,  witlujut  leavin-.i;  a 
comrade  to  record  tiieir  late. 

'"Our  darkness  has  ninety  days  to  run  before  we  shall 
got  back  again  even  to  the  conteste  1  twili^iit  of  to-day. 
Altogether,  our  winter  will  have  been  sunless  Ibi'  one 
liuu(h*ed  and  forty  davs. 


m^w 


•,  ti 

if 


;     I 


■  '  I 


1^1 


a 


If: 


\'l, 


,'l 


'I' 


■■■>, 


■'■■    ^'^^''^M 

1 ' 

i      1^1 .. 

M 


■f 


;:i! 


!»■   i 


::li'' 


1  '',. 


■i  ( 


144 


TII  E      COL  I)      I  S  ('  K  E  A  SI  N  G. 


''It  roquires  neither  tlie  'Ice-foot'  with  its  grow- 
ing ranipiirts,  nor  the  ra})i(l  encroiichnients  ol'  tlie 
night,  nor  the  record  of  our  thennometers,  to  por- 
tend for  us  a  winter  of  unusual  severity.  The 
mean  temperatures  of  October  and  September  are 
lower  than  those  of  Parry  for  the  same  montlis  at 
Melville  Island.  Thus  far  w(^  have  no  indications 
of  that  deferred  fall  cold  which  marks  the  insular 
climate. 

"Nov^ember  9,  Wednesday. — Wishing  to  get  the  alti- 
tude of  the  clifl's  ou  the  southwest  cape  of  our  bay 
beibre  tlie  darkness  set  in  thoroughly,  I  started  in  time 
to  reach  tlK.'iu  with  my  Newfoundlanders  at  noonday. 
Although  it  was  but  a  short  journey,  the  rough  shore- 
ice  and  a  slight  wind  rendered  the  cold  severe.  I  had 
been  housed  for  a  week  with  my  wretched  rheumatism, 
and  felt  that  daily  exposure  was  necessjiry  to  enajjlc 
me  to  bear  up  against  the  cold.  The  thermometer 
indicated  twenty-three  degrees  below  zero. 

"Fireside  astronomers  can  hardly  realize  the  diffi- 
culties in  the  way  of  observations  at  such  low  temperar 
tures.  The  mere  burning  of  the  hands  is  obviated  by 
covering  the  metal  with  chamois-skin ;  but  the  breath, 
and  even  the  warmth  of  the  face  and  body,  cloud  the 
sextant-arc  and  glasses  with  a  fme  hoarfrost.  Though 
I  had  much  clear  weather,  we  barely  succeeded  ])y 
magnifiers  in  reading  the  verniers.  It  is,  moreover, 
an  unusual  feat  to  measure  a  base-line  in  the  snow  at 
fifty-five  degrees  below  freezing. 

"November  IG,  Wednesday. — The  great  difficulty  is 


i: 


s    grow- 

of    tlie 

to   p(jr- 

.       The 

ber    are 

mtlis   at 

lications 

insular 

the  nlti- 
oiir  bav 
ill  time 
looiiday. 
li  sliore- 
I  had 
iiiatism. 
>  enable 
lonieter 

le  diffi- 
empera- 
ated  by 
breath, 
oud  the 
rhoimh 
ded  l)y 
jreover, 
^now  at 

culty  is 


THE     ICE-JsLINK. 


145 


to  keep  up  a  cheery  tone  among  the  men.  Poor  Hans 
has  Ijeeii  sorely  homesick.  Three  days  ago  he  bundh'd 
up.  his  chjthes  and  took  his  ritie  to  bid  us  all  good-bye. 
It  turns  out  that  besides  his  mother  there  is  another 
one  of  the  softer  sex  at  Fiskernaes  that  the  boy's  heart 
is  dreaming  of.  He  looked  as  wretched  as  any  lover 
of  a  milder  clime.  I  hope  I  have  treated  his  nostalgia 
successfully,  by  giving  him  first  a  dose  of  salts,  and, 
secondly,  promotion.  Ho  has  now  all  the  dignity  of 
henchman.  He  harnesses  my  dogs,  jjuilds  my  traps, 
and  walks  with  me  on  my  ice-tramps;  and,  excei)t 
hunting,  is  excused  from  all  other  duty.  He  is  really 
attached  to  me,  and  as  happy  as  a  fat  man  ought 
to  be. 

"November  21,  Monday. — We  have  schemes  innu- 
merable to  cheat  the  monotonous  solitude  of  our  winter. 
We  are  getting  up  a  fancy  ball ;  and  to-day  the  first 
nimi])er  of  our  Arctic  newspaper,  '  The  Ice-Blink,'  came 
out,  with  the  motto,  '  In  texebris  servare  fidem.'  The 
articles  are  by  authors  of  every  nautical  grade :  some 
of  the  best  from  the  forecastle.  I  transfer  a  few  of 
them  to  ray  Appendix ;  but  the  following  sketch  is  a 
fac-simile  of  the  vignette  of  our  little  paper. 

"  November  22,  Tuesday. — I  ofiered  a  prize  to-day  of 

a  Guernsey  shirt  to  the  man  who  held  out  longest  in  a 

'fox-chase'  round  the  decks.      The  rule  of  the  sport 

was,  that  'Fox'  was  to  run  a  given  circuit  between 

galley  and  capstan,  all  hands  following  on  his  track ; 

every  four  minutes  a  halt  to  be  called  to  blow,  and  the 

fox  making  the  longest  run  to  take  the  prize ;  each  of 
Vol,,  i.—io 


'  11 


■i^ 


\     ;, .; 


"1"  1 

inn 

'  t  r 
,'f 

i 

hi 
1 

1 
1 

1 

'  f 

1 1 


,:' 


J) 


'■      i 


m'' 


(Iv. 


. .;  :i^' 

■  ^1 

f-,    ( 

,  ■'  i    ' 

i-fk 

:a  \ 


140 


F  ()  A-C  II  A  .S  E 


"in    tenebris    servare    fidem." 


the  civw  to  run  jis  I'ox  in  turn.  Williuni  GodlVey  .sus- 
tained the  chase  for  fourteen  minutes,  and  wore  oif  the 
shirt. 

"November  27,  Sunday. — I  sent  out  a  vohniteer 
party  some  days  ago  with  Mr.  Bonsall,  to  see  whether 
the  Esquimaux  have  returned  to  the  huts  we  saw 
empty  at  the  cape.  The  thermometer  was  in  the 
neighborhood  of  40°  below  zero,  and  the  day  was  too 
dark  to  read  at  noon.  I  was  hardly  surprised  when 
they  returned  after  camping  o]:e  night  upon  the  snow. 
Their  sledge  broke  down,  and  they  were  obliged  to 
leave  tents  and  every  thing  else  behind  them.  It 
must  have  been  very  cold,  for  a  bottle  of  Monongahehi 
whiskey  of  good  stiff  proof  froze  imder  Mr.  Bonsall's 
head. 


zero. 


fifty 


i:  s  (I  I  I  M  A  r  X    11  u  T  s. 


J  t 


"Morton  went  out  on  Friday  to  ivcljiim  t!io  tliiiii^s 
tliL'y  had  '-ol't;  and  to-chiy  at  1  r.  M.  lie  rotunu;(l  .siic- 
I'cssliil.  Jle  reached  the  wreck  of  the  t'ormer  l)arty, 
making  nine  miles  in  three  hours, — pushed  on  six: 
iiiik'S  iiirther  on  the  lee-lbot, — then  camped  for  tlie 
night;  and,  makinii;  a  sturdy  march  the  next  (hiy 
without  higgiige,  reached  the  lints,  and  got  back  to  hi.s 
cam})  to  sleep.  This  journey  of  his  was,  we  then 
thought,  really  an  achievement, — sixty-two  miles  in 
three  marches,  with  a  mean  tem[)eratiire  of  -10°  l)elow 
zero,  and  a  noonday  so  dark  that  you  (;ould  hardly  see 
a  hummock  of  ice  lil'ty  paces  ahead. 

"  Under  more  favoring  circumstances,  Bojisall,  Mor- 
ton, and  myself  made  eighty-four  miles  in  three  con- 
secutive marches,  1  go  for  the  system  of  J'orcLKi 
inarches  on  journeys  that  are  not  over  a  hundred  and 
lifty  miles.  A  practised  walker  unencumbered  by 
weight  does  twenty  miles  a  day  nearly  as  easily  as 
ten :  it  is  the  uncomfortable  sleeping  that  wears  a 
party  out. 

'•Morton  found  no  natives;  but  he  saw  enough  to 
satisfy  me  that  the  huts  could  not  have  been  deserted 
loiiir  before  we  came  to  this  region.  The  foxes  had 
been  at  work  upon  the  animal  remains  that  we  found 
there,  and  the  appearances  which  we  noted  of  recent 
habitation  had  in  a  great  degree  disappeared.  Where 
these  Esipiimaux  have  travelled  to  is  matter  for  con- 
jecture. The  dilapidated  character  of  the  liuts  we 
have  seen  ftirther  to  the  north  seems  to  imply  that 
they  cannot  have  gone  in  that  direction.     They  have 


I'l! 


'  i^  , 


.  •     't 


J!    f 


1*. 


:'f 


i  ■ .  »     i 
I-' 

1  : 

■.    •    i  ■'   ; 

!' 

4i  '  '! 

1,        '"! 

;!(■. 

} 

i' 

1 

■     ■.    i  U' 

1 

i 

t 

148 


0  C  C  U  L  T  A  T  H)  X      OF     S  A  T  U  II  \. 


V        II 


'f 


,,j  M 


t    . 


;l                    1  , 

|ii 

MiiM 

i 

.il..d 


more  pr()i)itl)ly  luignitcMl  soutliward,  and,  as  the  spriii'^ 
opens,  may  return,  with  the  wahnis  and  seal,  to  their 
former  liaunts.  We  shall  see  them,  I  think,  before  we 
leave  our  icy  moorings. 

"December  12,  Monday. — A  grand  incident  in  our 
great  monotony  of  life!  We  had  an  occultation  of 
Saturn  at  2  a.m.,  and  got  a  most  satisfactory  observa- 
tion. The  emersion  was  obtained  with  greater  accu- 
racy than  would  have  l)een  expected  from  the  excessive 
atmospheric  undulation  of  these  low  temperatures.  My 
little  Fraunhofer  sustained  its  repntation  well.  We 
can  now  fix  our  position  without  a  cavil. 

"December  1-5,  Thursday. — We  have  lost  the  last 
vestige  of  our  mid-day  twilight.  We  cannot  see  print, 
and  hardly  paper :  the  lingers  cannot  be  counted  a  foot 
from  the  eyes.  Noonday  and  midnight  are  alike,  and, 
except  a  vague  glinnner  on  the  sky  that  seems  to  de- 
fine the  hill  outlines  to  the  south,  we  have  nothing 
to  tell  us  that  this  Arctic  world  of  ours  has  a  sun. 
In  one  week  more  we  shall  reach  the  midnight  of 
the  year. 

"December  22,  Thursday. — There  is  an  excitement 
in  our  little  community  that  dispenses  with  reflections 
upon  the  solstitial  night.  'Old  Grim'  is  missing,  and 
has  been  for  more  than  a  day.  Since  the  lamented 
demise  of  Cerberus,  my  leading  Newfoundlander,  he 
has  been  patriarch  of  our  scanty  kennel. 

"Old  Grim  was  'a  character'  such  as  perad venture 
may  at  some  time  be  found  among  beings  of  a  higher 
order  and  under  a  more  temperate  sky.     A  profound 


very 
with 


!   ilJ 


rOUTKAlT     Ol"     OLD     G  K  1  M. 


MO 


hypocrite  and  time-server,  he  so  wriggled  his  juhdatory 
tail  as  to  secure  every  one's  good  grace.^  and  noljndy's 
respect.  All  the  spare  morsels,  the  cast-oil'  delicacies 
of  the  mess,  passed  through  the  winnowing  jaws  of 
•Old  Grim,' — an  illustration  not  so  much  of  his  eclecti- 
cism as  his  universality  of  taste,  lie  was  never  known 
to  refuse  any  thing  ollered  or  a[)proaclialjle,  and  never 
known  to  he  satisfied,  however  prolonged  and  abundant 
the  bounty  or  the  spoil. 

"Grim  was  an  ancient  dog  :  his  teeth  indicated  ninny 
winters,  and  his  limljs,  once  splendid  tractoi's  for  the 
sledge,  wei'e  now  covered  with  warts  and  ringbones. 
Somehow  or  other,  when  the  dogs  were  htirnessing  for 
a  journey,  'Old  Grim'  was  sure  not  to  be  tbund ;  and 
upon  one  occasion,  when  he  was  detected  hiding  away 
in  a  cast-off  barrel,  he  incontinently  hecame  lame. 
Strange  to  say,  he  has  been  lame  ever  since  except 
when  the  team  is  away  without  him. 

"Cold  disagrees  with  Grim;  but  by  a  system  of  pa- 
tient ^vatchings  at  the  door  of  our  deck-h(nise,  accom- 
panied by  a  discriminating  use  of  his  tail,  he  became 
at  last  the  one  privileged  intruder.  My  seal-skin  coat 
has  been  his  favorite  bed  for  weeks  together.  What- 
ever love  for  an  individual  Grim  expressed  by  his  tail, 
he  could  never  be  induced  to  follow  him  on  the  ice 
after  the  cold  darkness  of  the  winter  set  in;  yet  the 
dea.'  good  old  sinner  would  wriggle  after  you  to  the 
very  threshold  of  the  gangway,  and  bid  you  good-bye 
with  a  deprecatory  v*^ag  of  the  tail  which  disarmed 
resentment. 


■ 


■.  t 


i 


U\ 


. ,  (   I    'I  ■ 


,1'  1 


.,.'  I..J4 


!;    1( 


ir,{) 


rOUTUAIT     OF     OLD     (J  li  I  M. 


M\ 


!     l7i! 


4!'  "M 


.1  1  . 


,: 


,!!,., J 


''  Ilis  ;i|)|)(>iir;in('o  was  (luih'  cliiiractcristic!  :  —  liis 
muzzle  rool'cd  like  tlic  old-lashioiu'd  ualdi'  of  ii  Diilcli 
ganvt-window ;  Ids  fortdusid  indicatiii'Z'  the  most  iiicajiTc 
capacity  oC  brains  that  could  consist  with  his  sanity  as 
a  dog;  his  eyes  small;  his  iiu)uth  curtaincfl  hy  louu' 
black  dewlaps;  and  his  hide  a  nnuigy  russet  studded 
with  chestnut-burrs:  if  he  has  gone  indeed,  we  Mie'er 
Hhall  look  upon  liis  like  again.'  So  much  (or  old 
Grim! 

"When  yesterday's  party  started  to  take  soundings, 
I  thought  the  exercise  would  benefit  Grim,  whose  time- 
serving sojourn  on  our  warm  deck  had  begun  to  render 
him  over-corpulent.  A  rope  was  fastened  round  him ; 
for  at  such  critical  periods  he  was  obstinate  and  even 
ferocious;  and,  thus  fastened  to  the  sledge,  he  com- 
menced his  reluctant  journey.  Reaching  a  stopping- 
place  after  a  while,  he  jerked  upon  his  line,  parted  it  a 
foot  or  two  from  its  knot,  and,  dragging  the  remnant 
behind  him,  started  off  through  the  darkness  in  the 
direction  of  our  brig.     lie  has  not  been  seen  since. 

'"  Parties  are  out  with  lanterns  seeking  him ;  for  it  is 
feared  that  his  long  cord  may  have  caught  upon  some 
of  the  rude  pinnacles  of  ice  which  stud  our  lloe,  and 
thus  made  him  a  helpless  prisoner.  The  thermometer 
is  at  44°. 6  below  zero,  and  old  Grim's  teeth  could  not 
gnaw  away  the  cord. 

"December  23,  Friday. — Our  anxieties  for  old  Grim 
might  have  interfered  with  almost  any  thing  else ;  but 
they  could  not  arrest  our  celebration  of  yesterday.  Dr. 
Hayes  made  us  a  well-studied  oration,  and  Morton  a 


ro  liT  K  A  1  T      <»F      ()  I.  I)      (i  U  I  M. 


\i)\ 


capital  punch  ;  add  to  tlicsc  a  diuiuT  of  marled  iiccf, — 
we  have  two  pieces  left,  lor  tlie  sun's  return  and  tlic 
Fourtii  of  'Ui\y, —  and  u  l)uni[)er  of  clKiin[»a,i;iu'  all 
round  ;  and  the  clcnicnts  of  our  frolic  arc  all  regis- 
tered. 

•'Wc  tracked  old  Grim  to-dav  throuiih  the  snow  to 
within  six  hundred  yards  of  the  bri<i',  and  thence  to 
that  mass  of  snow-packed  sterility  which  we  call  the 
shore.  His  not  rejoininj;'  the  shi[)  is  a  mystery  ijuite 
in  keeping  with  his  character." 


li'ii 


II 


I  T  I 


4 


I        1 


i 

>     ■ 

h-J 

!  '    ' 

PORTRAIT      OF      OLD       GH     M 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


1.  )■ 


^■■'  !. 

i:; 

■1 

,  >• 

.ll 

'■1 

t    ) 


MAn.^KTir;    OISSKRVATOIIY  —  'I'KMI'KKATI  HKS  —  IlKTURNINO     LKJFET  — 
DARlvNKSS    AM>   'I'llH    J)(l(;S II  VUIK  il'IIOItl  A  —  ICK-CIIANCiES TllK 

j(,'i;-i'()()T  —  Till';  j(u:-iii:i,T  —  tiik  stNLKurr  —  march. 

My  journal  for  tlio  first  two  inontlis  of  ISijl  is  so 
(U'void  of  iiitercst,  tluit  1  spare;  tlie  readei"  tlio  task  of 
i'ollowiiiLi;  iiiu  tlirouiili  it.  In  tlie  darkju'ss  and  c.oiisi;- 
(jiu'iit  iiiactioii,  it  was  almost  in  Viiin  that  wv  souulit 
to  creato  t^)[)ic!s  oC  tliouglit,  and  ]>y  Ji  forced  cxcitonicnt 
to  ward  off  the  encroachnents  of  disease.  Our  oIh 
servatory  and  the  dogs  gave  us  our  only  regulai'  occu- 
pations. 

On  the  9th  of  January  we  had  again  an  occulta- 
tion  of  Saturn.  The  enu'rsion  occurred  during  a  short 
interval  oi'  clear  sky,  and  our  ohservation  of  it  was 
quite  satisfactory;  tiie  limit  of  the  moon's  disc  and 
that  of  the  planet  heing  well  dc^fined :  the  mist  pre- 
vented our  seeing  tlie  innnersion.  We  had  a  re- 
currence of  the  sanu;  pli  'lomenon  on  the  5tli  of 
Fehruary,  and  an  occultation  of  Mars  on  the  lltli; 
Ijoth  of  them  ol)serv<'d  under  lavorable  circumstances, 

the  latter  especially. 
152 


1 .  ■ 


i 


M  A  G  X  K  '1'  IC      ( )  II  S  K  K  \'  A  T  ()  U  V, 


53 


Our  mjigiu'tic  ohservations  went  on  ;  hut  the  cold 
made  it  idniost  ini])().ssihle  to  adhere  to  them  with  regu- 
larity. Our  oh.servatory  was,  in  fact,  an  iee-house  of 
the  cohlest  imaginahh;  (U'S(n-i[)tion.  The  ahsenei?  of 
.snow  |)r(!vented  our  hacking   th     walls  with  that  im- 


1 


)()i-tant    non-con( 


luct( 


)r 


ires. 


l)U 


(I'al 


o-rohes. 


:in( 


1 


an 


arras  of  investing  sail-cloth,  were  unavailing  to  hrint 


THE      OUSr.  HVATORY. 


up  the  mean  tem])era,ture   to   the  freezing-point  at  the 
level  of  the  magnetometer;'''  and  it  was  quite  common 


*  \V(!  had  a  j^Dod  uiiililar,  that  had  liceii  loaiiiMl  ti»  us  hy  I'rofcj.ssijr 
IJachc,  (if  thr  (loast  Survey,  and  a  dip  iiistruinoiit,  a  Harrow's  ciych), 
ohtaiiH'd  from  ihv.  Siiiitlisdiiiaii  Institutidii,  tlirou^'h  tht;  kirifhicss  of 
Col.  SaltiiK!.  I  owo  iiiuch  to  Mr.  Sotita'.:',  |)r.  Hayes,  and  Mr.  \inn- 
Kail,  who  hon>  the  bmiit  of  tlu;  t<'nn-day  ol)servatioiis ;  it  was  only 
toward  the  elose  of  the  sea.soii   that  I  was  enabled  to  take  my  sliaro 


(MM. 


h-   I 


I  .1. 


1. 

1' 
1 

1:. 
i 

j 

k 

^! 

1     1 

' 

u 

:   1  I 


M.j 


P 


I  !^ 


'  v: 


154 


T  E  M  r  K  R  A  'ITU  11  S. 


to  find  the  platform  on  which  the  observer  stood  full 
fifty  degrees  lower,  ( — 1^0°.)  Our  ustrononiioal  ob- 
servations were  less  protracted,  but  the  apartment  in 
which  they  were  made  was  of  the  same  temperature 
with  the  outer  air.  The  cold  was,  of  course,  intense ; 
and  some  of  our  instruments,  the  di[)-circle  particu- 
larly, became  dillicult  to  manage  in  conseipience  of 
the  unequal  contraction  of  the  brass  and  steel. 

On  the  17th  of  Januarv,  our  thermometers  st<_)od 
at  forty-nine  degrees  below  zero ;  and  on  the  20th, 
the  range  of  those  at  the  observatory  was  at  — G4° 
to  — G7°.  The  temperature  on  the  tloes  was  jilways 
somewhat  higher  than  at  the  island ;  the  diflerence 
being  due,  as  I  suppose,  to  the  heat  conducted  from 
the  sea -water,  which  was  at  a  temperatnre  of 
-f-  29° ;  the  suspended  instruments  being  afl'ected  by 
radiation. 

On  the  i')th  of  February,  our  thermometers  began  to 
show  unexampled  temperature.  They  ranged  from 
G0°  to  75°  below  zero,  and  one  very  reliable  instru- 
ment stood  upon  the  taffrail  of  our  brig  at  — 05°. 
The  reduced  mean  of  our  best  spirit-standards  gave 
— G7°,  or  00°  below  the  freezing-point  of  water. 

At  these  temperatures  chhn'ic  ether  became  solid, 
and  carefully-prepared  chloroform  exhibited  a  granu- 

of  them.  In  addition  to  these,  wo  liad  weekly  determinations  of  varia- 
tion of  declination,  extending  throuj^li  the  twenty-four  hours,  besides 
observations  of  intensity,  deflection,  inclination,  and  total  force,  with 
careful  notations  of  temperature. 


if 


Ofl    lllll 
('ill     ol> 

iicnt  in 
crature 
iitcnso ; 
:){irticu- 
'iice   of 

s  sk)od 
2  20tli, 
—04° 
always 
fl'ereiicc 
d  from 
lire  of 
stcd  by 

icgan  to 

sd  from 
iiiistru- 
—05°. 

Is  gave 

n\ 

e   golid, 


graim- 


s  of  varia- 
rs,  besides 
orco,  with 


li  E  T  U  li  N  1  N  (.'      LIGHT. 


155 


lar  pellicle  on  its  surface.  Spirit  of  naphtha  froze  at 
— 54°,  and  oil  of  sassafras  at  — 49°.  The  oil  of  winter- 
green  was  in  a  flocculent  state  at  — 5G°,  and  solid  at 
_03°  and  _G5°.=^=(3^> 

The  exhalations  from  the  surface  of  the  bodv  in- 
vested the  exposed  or  partially-clad  parts  with  a 
wreath  of  vapor.  The  air  had  a  perceptible  pungency 
upon  inspiration,  but  I  could  not  perceive  the  painful 
sensation  which  has  been  spoken  of  by  some  Siljerian 
travellers.  When  breathed  for  any  length  of  time,  it 
imparted  a  sensation  of  dryness  to  the  air-passages. 
I  noticed  that,  as  it  were  involuntarily,  we  all  breathed 
guardedly,  with  compressed  lips. 

The  first  traces  of  returning  light  were  observed 
at  noon  on  the  21st  of  January,  when  the  southern 
horizon  had  for  a  short  time  a  distinct  orange  tint. 
Though  the  sun  had  perhaps  given  us  a  band  of  illu- 
mination before,  it  was  not  distinguishable  I'rom  the 
cold  light  of  the  planets.  We  had  been  nearing  the 
sunshine  for  thirty-two  days,  and  had  just  reached 
that  dcarec  of  mitigated  darkness  which  made  the 
extreme  midnight  of  Sir  Edward  Parry  in  latitude 
74°  47'.  Even  as  late  as  the  81st,  two  very  sensitive 
daguerreotype  plates,  treated  with  iodine  and  bromine, 
failed  to  indicate  any  solar  influence  when  exposed  to 
the  southern  horizon  at  noon ;  the  camera  being  used 
iu-doors,  to  escape  the  effects  of  cold. 


*  I  repeated  my  observations  on  the  eflfects  of  these  low  tenipera- 
tuvcs  witli  ureat  care.  A  further  account  of  them  will  be  seen  in  the 
Appendix. 


•   \i 


;  I 


W 


'^K 


ll  /+ 


*  I 


t  ■• 


i'i 


1        s 

!         t.  B 

^  '1 

1-  1 
1    i 

1- 

!       ! 

i 

.(. 


It 
i 


I  h 


l\'  > 


\ 

i 

1 

:  ■:! 

It! 

1 

y  ii  ^ii 

;       i 

^  ,M 

L.^1 

156 


DARKNESS     AND     THE     DOGS. 


The  iiillucnce  of  this  long,  intense  darkness  was 
most  depressing.  Even  our  dogs,  although  the  greater 
part  of  them  were  natives  of  the  Arctic  circle,  were 
unable  to  withstand  it.  Most  of  them  died  from  an 
anomalous  form  of  disease,  to  which,  I  am  satisfied, 
the  absence  of  light  contributed  as  nnich  as  the  ex- 
treme cold.  I  give  a  little  extract  from  my  journal 
of  January  20th. 

"  This  morning  at  five  o'clock — for  I  am  so  afllicted 
with  the  insonniium  of  this  eternal  night,  that  I  rise 
at  any  time  between  midnight  and  noon — I  went  upon 
deck.  It  was  absolutely  dark ;  the  cold  not  permit- 
ting a  swinging  lamp.  There  was  not  a  glimmer  came 
to  me  through  the  ici^-crusted  window-panes  of  the 
cabin.  While  I  was  feeling  my  way,  half  puzzled  as 
to  the  ])est  method  of  steering  clear  of  whatever  might 
be  before  me,  two  of  my  Newfoundland  dogs  put  their 
cold  noses  against  my  hand,  and  instantly  commenced 
the  most  exuberant  antics  of  satisfaction.  It  then 
occurred  to  me  how  very  dreary  and  forlorn  must 
these  poor  animals  be,  at  atmospheres  of  +10°  in-doors 
and  — 50°  without, — living  in  darkness,  howling  at  an 
accidental  light,  as  if  it  reminded  them  of  the  moon, — 
and  M'itli  nothing,  either  of  instinct  or  sensation,  to 
tell  them  of  the  passing  hours,  or  to  explain  the  long- 
lost  daylight.  They  shall  see  the  lanterns  more 
frequently." 

I  may  recur  to  the  influence  which  our  long  winter 
night  exerted  on  the  health  of  these  much-valued  ani- 
mals.    The  subject  has  some  interesting  bearings ;  but 


THE     \  i:\VF  OU  XDLAXD     DOGS. 


137 


I   content   myself   for    the    present    Avitli    transcribing 
another  passage  from  my  journal  of  a  few  da>s  later. 

"January  25,  Wednesday. — The  mouse-colored  dogs, 
the  leaders  of  my  Newfoundland  team,  have  for  the 
past  fortnight   been   nursed  like   babies.     No  one  can 


THE      DECKS      TY      LAMPLIGHT. 


tell  how  anxiously  I  watch  them.  They  are  ke[)t 
below,  tended,  fed,  cleansed,  caressed,  and  <h)cfon'<J,  to 
the  infinite  discomfort  of  all  hands.  To-day  I  give  up 
the  last  hope  of  saving  them.  Their  disease  is  as 
clearly  mental  as  in  the  case  of  any  human  being. 
The  more  material  functions  of  the  poor  brutes  go  on 
without  interruption  :  they  eat  voraciously,  retain  their 


if 


t  I 


I  t 


Hi- 


h. 


I,    '!■:« 


>  t 


iilC 


I'  1 


i 


I  ,:  I 
I  i 


■]l 


I:  jr-n  h  \:A 


\ 


I    ^ 


j!    , 


158 


H  Y  D  K  ()  1'  II  O  B  I  A. 


)•"  i! 


.  i  ■  ■ 


strength,  and  sleep  well.  But  aW  the  indications  be- 
yond this  go  to  prove  that  the  original  ej^ilepsy,  which 
was  the  first  manilestation  of  brain  disease  anioii}>- 
tliem,  has  been  followed  by  a  true  lunacy.  They 
bark  frenziedly  at  nothing,  and  walk  in  straight  Jiiid 
curved  lines  with  anxious   and   unwearying  perseve- 


rance 

Ml 


"'  They  fawn  on  }ou,  but  without  seeming  to  appre- 
ciate the  notice  you  give  thein  in  return^  pushing 
their  heads  against  your  person,  or  oscillating  Avith  a 
strange  pantomime  of  fear.  Their  most  intelligent 
actions  seem  automatic :  sometimes  they  claw  you,  as 
if  trying  to  burrow  into  your  seal-skins ;  sometimes 
they  remain  for  hours  in  moody  silence,  and  then  start 
off  ho\vling  as  if  pursued,  and  run  up  and  down  for 
hours. 

"  So  it  W' as  with  poor  Flora,  our  '  wise  dog.'  She 
was  seized  with  the  endemic  spasms,  and^  after  a  few 
wild  violent  paroxysms,  lapsed  into  a  lethargic  con- 
dition, eating  voraciously,  but  gaining  no  strength. 
This  passing  off,  the  same  crazy  wildness  took  posses- 
sion of  her,  and  she  died  of  brain  disease  {tirachnoidal 
effmlo)i)  in  about  six  weeks.  Generally,  they  perish 
with  symptoms  resembling  locked-jaw  in  less  than 
thirty-six  hours  after  the  first  attack." 

On  the  22d,  I  took  my  first  walk  on  the  great  floe, 
which  had  been  for  so  long  a  time  a  crude,  black  laby- 
rinth. I  give  tiie  appearance  of  things  in  the  words 
of  my  journal. 

"  The  floe  has  changed  wonderfully.     I  remember  it 


i:> 


ons  bc- 
,  which 
among 
They 
;lit  Jind 
)erseve- 


•  app  re- 
pushing 
with  a 


elligent 


you,  as 
netimes 
en  start 
3wn  for 

She 
r  a  few 
^ic  con- 
trength. 
posses- 
hnoUhil 
7  perish 
ss    than 

eat  Hoe, 
ck  laby- 
e  words 

ember  it 


icE-c  11  A  N  (i  i:s. 


150 


sixty-four  (hiys  ago,  when  our  twilight  was  as  it  now 
is,    a    })artially    snow-patched    phiin,    checpiered    with 


di 


)f  sh 


)f   U 


Ills   lias  gone. 


lummocKs,  or  a  series 
I  coursed  with  my  Newfoundhindcrs. 
A.  lead-c()U)red  expanse  stretches 
its  'roiiiuUng  gray'  in  every  direction,  and  the  old 
uuiiular  hummocks  are  so  softened  down  as  to  bU'iid 
in  rolhng  dunes  with  the  distant  obscurity.  The  snow 
upon  the  levels  shows  the  same  remarkable  evapora- 
tion. It  is  now  in  crisp  layers,  liardly  six  inches 
thick,  (piite  undisturbed  by  drift.  I  could  hardly 
recognise  any  of  the  old  hjcalities. 

''  We  can  trace  the  outline  of  the  shore  again,  and 
even  some  of  the  long  horizontal  bands  of  its  stratifica- 
tion. The  dill's  of  Sylvia  Mountain,  Avhicli  open  to- 
ward the  cjist,  are,  if  any  thing,  more  covered  with 
snow  than  the  ridges  fronting  west  across  the  bay. 

"But  the  feature  which  had  changed  most  was  the 
ice-belt.  When  I  saw  it  last,  it  was  an  investing  zone 
of  ice,  coping  the  margin  of  the  floe.  The  constant 
iiccumulation  by  overflow  of  tides  and  freezing  has 
turned  tiiis  into  a  bristling  wall,  twenty  feet  high, 
(20  ft.  8  in.)  No  language  can  depict  the  chaos  at 
its  base.  It  has  been  rising  and  falling  throughout 
the  long  winter,  with  a  tidal  wave  of  thirteen  perpen- 
dicular feet.  The  fragments  have  been  tossed  into 
every  possible  confusion,  rearing  up  in  fantastic  equi- 
librium, surging  in  long  inclined  planes,  dipping  into 
dark  valleys,  and  piling  in  contorted  iiills,  often  high 
above  the  ice-foot. 


». 


H! 


iS- 


liili 


lili 


i"f! 


••) 


;    5 

1  •  ' 

I 
i       1 

i'i 

i 

i! 

.1    ■, 

i 

1 

!' 

*^ 


i) 


i  I 


'!  .   'f ' 


,1. 


^1 


M    ii 


1 


i 

'A 


U  i,  1 


IGO 


TIIK     ICE-FOOT. 


"The  frozen  rubbish  luis  ruist'd  the  Hoc  itself,  for  a 
\vidtli  of  fii'ty  yards,  into  a  broken  level  of  erjig.s.  To 
pass  over  this  to  our  rocky  island,  with  its  storehouse, 
is  a  work  of  ingenious  pilotage  and  clambering,  only 
in'acticable  at  favoring  periods  of  the  tide,  and  often 


THE       ICE-FCOT. 


impossible  for  many  days  together.  Fortunately  for 
our  observatory,  a  long  table  of  heavy  ice  has  been  so 
nicely  poised  on  the  crest  of  the  ice-foot,  that  it  swings 
like  a  seesaw  with  the  changing  water-level,  and  has 
formed  a  moving  beach  to  the  island,  on  which  the 
floes  could  not  pile  themselves.  Shoreward  between 
Medary  and  the  '  terrace,'  the  shoal-water  has  reared 


%£i 


'•'Fe 


If,  lor  a 
,^s.  To 
oliouse, 
ig,  only 
(1  ol'U'U 


ately  for 
been  so 

it  swings 
and  has 

liicli  the 
between 

as  reared 


T  11  !•:    It  i;-i;  i;  lt, 


uvi 


so  as  to  niiike  them  almost  as  im])!^^ 


an( 


1   bet 


wet  Ml    iUTll 


F 


Jlocls 


and 


tl 


up  the  ice-fiehls, 

iil)I;'    as    the    lloi' 

Li'i'avestom',    where    1    used    to    pass   with    my    slod^■c's, 

tlu'iv   is   built  a  sort  of  garden-wall  of  erystal,   lully 


tui'iitv  leet  liiu'h.      It  needs  no  ir 


on  spikes  or 


brol 


\en 


IK) 


ttl's  to  defend  its  crest  from  tresnasser; 


*-^^*^^w-'^^ 


THE      UELT-ICES. 


"  Mr.  Sontag  amuses  me  quite  as  much  as  he  docs 
himself  with  his  daily  eflbrts  to  scale  it." 

My  next  extract  is  of  a  few  days  later. 

'•February  1,  Wednesday. — The  ice-foot  is  the  most 
wonderful  and  unique  characteristic  of  our  high 
noi'lhorn  position.     The  spring-tides  have  acted  on  it 

Vol.  I.— 1 1 


I  '  i 


,1 


ill 
I  e 

i. 


I 


■If  r 


1:1 


'  I 


■li 


^l, 


,  J 


j  ^      1 

';                 i 

I 

-A 

1 

■ '   * 

1 


r 


-tij.,: 

i' 

1 

1 

■1            '1 

!     1 

'  ' 

J             : 

il 

)l 

102 


T  11  i:     S  L'  N  L  1  G  11  T. 


vory  powerfully,  jind  the  coining;  day  ciuihlcis  us  now 
to  oluservo  their  stu[)oudous  ofl'ects.  Thin  ioo-belt,  ;is 
1  liJive  sometimL's  calk  %  is  now  twtMity-i'our  I'cct  in 
solid  thickness  bysixty-ti,  .  in  moan  width:  the  second 
or  appended  ice  is  thirty-eight  feet  wide;  and  the  tiiird 
thirty-four  feet.  All  three  are  ridges  of  immense  ice- 
tables,  serried  like  the  granite  blocks  of  a  rampart,  and 
investing  the  rocks  with  a  triple  circunivallation.  We 
know  them  as  the  belt-ices. 

"The  separation  of  the  true  ice-foot  from  our  Hoc 
was  at  first  a  simple  interval,  which  by  the  recession 
and  advance  of  the  tides  gave  a  movement  of  about  six 
feet  to  our  brig.  Now,  however,  the  compressed  ice 
grinds  closely  against  the  ice-foot,  rising  into  inclined 
planes,  and  freezing  so  as  actually  to  push  our  Hoc 
farther  and  farther  from  the  shore.  The  brig  has 
already  moved  twenty-eight  feet,  without  the  slightest 
perceptible  change  in  the  cradle  which  imljcds  her." 

I  close  my  notice  of  these  dreary  months  with  a 
single  extract  more.  It  is  of  the  date  of  Fe])ruary  the 
21st. 

"  We  have  had  the  sun,  for  some  days,  silvering  the 
ice  between  the  headlands  of  the  bay;  and  to  day,  to- 
ward noon,  I  started  out  to  be  the  first  of  my  party  to 
welcome  him  back.  It  was  the  longest  walk  and 
toughest  climb  that  I  have  had  since  our  imprisonment; 
and  scurvy  and  general  debility  have  made  me  '  short 
o'  wind.'  But  I  managed  to  attain  my  object.  I  saw 
him  once  more;  and  upon  a  projecting  crag  nestled  in 
the  sunshine.    It  was  like  l)athing  in  perfumed  water." 


ishipb 


us  now 
>bc'lt,  as 
r  feet  in 
e  st'coiul 
Am  tliinl 

DllSO    i (•(.'- 

part,  and 
on.     Wo 

our  lloo 

recession 

Libout  six 

■cssed  ice 

\  inclined 

our  Hoc 

brig  lias 

slightest 

i  her." 

IS  with  a 

iruary  the 

i^ering  the 
to  day,  to- 
y  party  to 
walk  and 
■isonment; 
me  'short 
et.  I  saw 
nestled  in 
ed  water." 


u  K  r  u  u  N    ( )  [■'    s  r  u  i  n  (j 


1( 


>.> 


Tlic  month  of  Mai-cli  l)r()n,t:lit  back  to  us  tbe  [mt- 
petual  day.  Tbe  suusbinc  bad  reacbed  ouriU'ckon  tbe 
last  (b»y  of  February:  we  iieccU'd  it  to  ciircr  us.  We 
Avere  not  as  ])ale  as  luy  expcriciiec  in  liaucastcr  Sound 
had  tbretobl;  l)ut  tbe  scurvy-spots  tluit  motth'd  our 
i'aces  gave  sore  proof  of  tlic  trials  we  bad  uudei'gonc. 
It  was  })biin  tbat  we  were  all  of  us  unfit  for  arduous 
travel  on  foot  at  tin'  intense  temperatures  of  tbe  nomi- 
nal spring;  and  tbe  I'eturn  of  tbe  sun.  by  increasing  tbe 


tbe  ll( 


tb 


d 


itb 


ovaporatn)n  irom  tne  Iloi's,  tlireateneil   us  witli  a  ivcur- 
rence  of  still  severer  weather. 

But  1  lelt  tbat  our  work  was  unfinished.  Tbe  great 
object  of  the  expedition  (diallenged  us  to  a  more  north- 
ward exploration.  My  dogs,  tbat  1  bad  counted  on  so 
largely,  tbe  nine  splendid  Newfoundlandei's  and  thirty- 
five  Esquimaux  of  six  months  before,  had  perished ; 
there  were  only  six  survivors  of  the  wdiole  pack,  and 
one  of  these  was  unfit  for  draught.  Still,  they  formed 
my  principal  reliance,  and  I  busied  myself  from  the 
very  beginning  of  the  month  in  training  them  to  run 
together.  The  carpenter  was  set  to  work  upon  a 
small  sledge,  on  an  improved  model,  and  adapted  to 
tlie  reduced  force  of  our  team;  and,  as  we  had  ex- 
hausted our  stock  of  small  cord  to  lash  its  parts 
together,  Mr.  Brooks  rigged  up  a  miniature  rope-walk, 
and  w^as  preparing  a  new  supply  from  part  of  the 
material  of  our  deep-sea  lines.  The  operations  of 
shipboard,  however,  went  on  regularly ;  Hans  and 
occasionallv  Petersen  going  out  on  the  hunt.  thouji;h 
rarelv  returninu-  successful. 


'    :i ' 


i  d 


i ' 


t  } 


jf  ■ 


'i 

-  .  i  ' 
■  i  . 

it: 

? 

'' 

i 

1 

1 

M 

^:'1: 

l  i 

■■:  'l  f 

i     ■ 

t  r. 

f 

m 

1 

'  ; 

1 

Ml 

m^L 

IGI 


IIOI'KS     AND     I'UOSI'KCTS. 


Mi'iinwliilo  we  ttilked  om'()iirji,i;iiif;ly  of  s[)riiig  1i<)[k's 
and  smnnior  prospects,  and  iiiaiiaged  soiiietimes  to  Ibici' 
an  occasion  for  mirth  out  of  the  very  discomforts  of  our 
unyielding'  winter  life. 

This  may  exphiin  the  tone  of  my  diary. 


I     : 


i    t 


R  t:  r  U  «  N  I  H  a      [/AY. 


i  t' 


CHAPTER  XV. 


,'i 


1  i . 


AUCTIC  OnSKIlVATIONS  —  TllAVKL  TO  OUSKllVATORY  —  ITS  IIAZAHItS 
— ARCTIC  LIFK — THE  DAY — TlIK  DIKT — THK  AMl'tSKMKNTS — TIIK 
LAI5URS — THE  TEMPEUATUHE — THE  "EIS-FOD" — THE  ICE-UELT — 
THE  ICE-UELT  ENCHOACHINO  —  EXPEDITION  I'UEl'ARING  —  GOOD- 
BYE—  A   SURI'ttlSE  —  A    SECOND   OOOU-BYE. 

"  March  7,  Tuesdjiy. — I  liiive  said  very  little  in  this 
business  journal  about  our  daily  Arctic  life.  I  have 
had  no  time  to  draw  pictures. 

"But  we  have  some  trials  which  might  make  up  a 
day's  adventures.  Our  Arctic  observatory  is  cold  be- 
yond any  of  its  class,  Kesan,  Pulkowa,  Toronto,  or  even 
its  shifting  predecessors,  Bossetop  and  Melville  Island. 
Imagine  it  a  term-day,  a  magnetic  term-day. 

"  The  observer,  if  he  were  only  at  home,  would  be  the 
'observed  of  all  observers.'  lie  is  clad  in  a  pair  of 
seal-skin  pants,  a  dog-skin  cap,  a  reindeer  jumper,  and 
walrus  boots.  lie  sits  upon  a  box  that  once  held  a 
transit  instrument.  A  stove,  glowing  with  at  least  a 
bucketful  of  anthracite,  represents  pictorially  a  heating 
apparatus,  and  reduces  the  thermometer  as  near  as  may 

105 


> 


r 

■     I 

■      I 

1 

'  ^     • 

.    .         I 

;?' 

'l. 

:  ■    il 

1 ' 

■ 

■    fi 

"  t. 

^ 


^1 

I 

;  -  ,1 

1. 

1 

m 


I!  ''' 


■4 


I   ,, 


St  it 


1 

■i^ 

5 

1 

!i 

1         .1, 

1          ■f 

1, 

1    \it 
\>     ij 

I'; 

1 

|L  ,rN'^ 

LiL,. 

IbO 


A  li  c  T  u;    ()  r.  s  i;  li  v  a  t  i  o  n  s. 


be  t()  ten  de<!:reos  below  zero.     One  hand  liolds  a  cln 


^  o 


()- 


IK 


)nieter,  and  is  lei't  bare  to  warm  it:  the  other  hixii- 
riates  in  a  lox-skin  mitten.  The  right  hand  and  the 
left  take  it'wateh  and  watch  abont.'  As  one  burii.-^ 
with  cold,  the  chronometer  shil'ts  to  the  other,  and  the 
mitten  takes  its  ])lace. 


THf,       MAGNETIC      OBSERVATORY. 


■•  Perched  on  a  pedestal  of  frozen  gravel  is  a  magneto- 
meter; stretching  out  from  it,  a  telescope:  and,  l)ending 
down  to  this,  an  alyect  human  eye.  Every  six  minutes, 
said  eye  takes  cognizance  of  a  finely-divided  arc.  and 
notes  the  result  in  a  cold  meiuorandum-book.  This 
pro(;ess  continues  for  twenty-four  hours,  two  sets  of  eyes 


:    i 


1'  li  A  V  i:  L      TO      ()  H  Si;  li  V  ATOR  Y, 


1G7 


tiikini"'  it  by  tiiriis;  and,  when  tweuty-rour  hours  are 
ovor,  torui-day  is  over  too. 

"  We  have  such  frolics  every  week.  I  have  just  been 
relieved  from  one,  and  after  a  few  hours  am  to  be  called 
t)ut  of  bed  in  the  night  to  watch  and  dot  again.  I  have 
been  engaged  in  this  way  when  the  thermometer  gave 
20°  above  zero  at  the  instrument,  20°  below  at  two 
feet  above  the  floor,  and  43°  below  at  the  lloor  itself: 
on  niy  person,  facing  the  little  lobster-red  fury  of  a 
stove,  94°  above ;  on  my  person,  away  from  the  stove, 
10°  below  zero.  'A  grateful  country'  will  of  course 
appreciate  the  value  of  these  labors,  and,  as  it  cons 
over  hereafter  the  four  hundred  tuid  eighty  results 
which  go  to  make  up  our  record  for  each  week,  will 
never  think  of  asking  ''Gal  bono  all  this?' 

"But  this  is  no  adventure.  The  adventure  is  the 
travel  to  and  fro.  We  have  night  now  only  ludf  the 
time ;  and  half  the  time  can  go  and  come  with  eyes  to 
help  us.     It  was  not  so  a  little  while  since. 

"Taking  an  ice-pole  in  (me  hand,  and  a  dark-lan- 
tern in  the  other,  you  steer  through  the  blackness  for 
a  lump  of  greater  blackness,  the  Fern  Rock  knob. 
Stumbling  over  some  fifty  yards,  you  come  to  a  wall : 
your  black  knob  has  disappeared,  and  nothing  but  gray 
indefinable  ice  is  before  you.  Turn  to  the  right; 
plant  your  pole  against  that  inclined  plane  of  slippery 
smoothness,  and  jump  to  the  hummock  opposite:  it  is 
the  same  hummock  you  skinned  your  shins  upon  the 
last  night  you  were  here.  Now  wind  along,  half  ser- 
pentine,   half   zigzag,    and   you   cannot   mistake   that 


in; 


I;  I       .     I 


i: 


in 
.1  I 


^1 


;i 


U 


\m 


*'  I 


I:      '■ 


108 


II  A  Z  A  K  OOU  S      T  HAVEL. 


twoiitj-foet  wall  just  beyond,  civakiiiii;  and  groaning 
and  even  nodding  its  crest  with  a  grave  cold  Mel- 
come :  it  is  the  'seam  of  the  second  ice.'  Tiunhle 
over  it  at  the  first  gap,  and  you  arc  upon  the  lir^^t 
ice:  tumble  over  that,  and  you  are  at  the  ice-lbot ; 
and  there  is  nothing  else  now  between  you  and  the 
rocks,  and  nothing  after  them  between  you  and  the 
observatory. 

"  But  be  a  little  careful  as  you  come  near  this  ice-foot. 
It  is  munching  all  the  time  at  the  first  ice,  and  you 
have  to  pick  your  way  over  the  masticated  iVagnients. 
Don't  trust  vourself  to  the  half-balanced,  hali-dxed. 
half-lloating  ice-lumps,  unless  you  relish  a  bath  like 
Marshal  Suw^arrow's, — it  might  be  more  pleasant  if 
you  were  sure  of  getting  out, — but  feel  your  way 
gingerly,  with  your  pole  held  crosswise,  not  disdaining 
lowly  attitudes, — hands  and  knees,  or  even  full  length. 
That  long  wedge-like  hole  just  before  you,  sending 
up  its  pufis  of  steam  into  the  cold  air,  is  the  'seam 
of  the  ice-foot:'  you  have  only  to  jump  it  and  }ou 
are  on  the  smooth  level  ice-foot  itself.  Scramljle  up 
the  rocks  now,  get  on  your  wooden  shoes,  and  go  to 
work  observing  an  oscillating  needle  for  some  hours 
to  come. 

"Astronomy,  as  it  draws  close  under  the  pole-star, 
cannot  lavish  all  its  powers  of  observation  on  things 
above.  It  w^as  the  mistake  of  Mr.  Sontag  some  months 
ago;  wdien  he  wandered  about  for  an  hour  on  his  way 
to  the  observatory,  and  was  afraid  after  finding  it  to 
try  and  wander  back.     I  myself  had  a  slide  down  an 


li 


A  K  r  T  1  C      LI  F  E. 


109 


Mlii, 


i'l'oaning 
old  ^vel- 
Tiunhk' 
the  first 
ico-lbot ; 
and  tlie 
and  the 

1  ice-loot, 
and  YOU 

I. 

Luanents. 
ali'-hxed, 
•ath  like 
a^ant  if 
3nr  way 
Lsdaininii; 
1  lenu'th. 
sending 
e  'seam 
and  }ou 
ndjle  up 
id  iio  to 
le  hours 

3ole-star, 
n  things 
months 
his  way 
ing  it  to 
down  an 


inclined  })lane,  v>hose  well-graded  talus  gave  me  ample 
time  to  contemplate  the  contingencies  at  its  Ijase; — a 
chasm  peradventnre,  for  my  ice-pole  was  travelling 
ahead  of  me  and  stopped  short  with  a  clang;  or  it 
might  he  a  pointed  hummock — there  used  to  he  one 
just  below ;  or  by  good  luck  it  was  only  a  water-pool, 
in  which  my  lantern  made  the  glitter.  I  exulted  to 
find  myself  in  a  cushion  of  snow. 

"March  9,  Thursday. — How  do  we  spend  the  day 
when  it  is  not  term-day,  or  rather  the  twenty-four 
hours?  for  it  is  either  all  day  here,  or  all  night,  or  a 
twilight  mixture  of  both.  How  do  wo  spend  the 
twi-nh'-four  hours? 

"At  six  in  the  morning,  McGary  is  called,  with  all 
hands  who  have  slept  in.  The  decks  are  cleaned,  the 
ice-hole  opened,  the  refreshing  beef-nets  examined,  the 
ice-tables  measured,  and  things  aboard  put  to  rights. 
At  half-past  seven,  all  hands  rise,  wash  on  deck,  open 
the  doors  for  ventilation,  and  come  below  for  breakfast. 
We  are  short  of  fuel,  and  therefore  cook  in  the  cal)in. 
Our  breakfast,  for  all  fore  alike,  is  har  tack,  pork, 
ste^ved  apples  frozen  like  molasses-candy,  tea  and  colTee, 
with  a  delicate  portion  of  raw  potato.  After  breakfast, 
the  smokers  take  their  pipe  till  nine :  then  all  hands 
turn  to,  idlers  to  idle  and  workers  to  work;  Ohlsen 
to  his  bench,  Brooks  to  his  'preparations'  in  canvas. 
]\IcGary  to  play  tailor,  AVhipple  to  make  shoes.  Bonsai  1 
t(j  tinker,  Baker  to  skin  birds, — and  the  rest  to  the 
'Ofilce!'  Take  a  look  into  the  Arctic  Bureau!  One 
tiil:)le  one  salt-pork  hnnp  with  rusty  chlorinated  llame, 


'   1 

I'h 

.  ■  V 

i  1 

!,  ' 

:^] 

■■■  i 

j 

.1 ' 

!,  :,! 

ii  ^\ 

■     1       i 
1     i 

lim 


i 


1 1 


i 


\\ 


,i. 


7  I    t 


■i 

L      t 

I A 


'I  i 


M' 


.<  :      ! 


1  ?;  • 


I  ■! 


170 


T  UK      I)  A  V    S      1!  L-  SI  X  K  S  S. 


iGir 


three  s^tools,  and  as  maiiv  waxt'ii-raced  men  with  tl 
k'gs  draAvn  up  under  tlieiii,  (he  deek  at  zero  being  too 


)ld  lor  the  feet.     Kadi   has  liis  dc 


It:   Ki 


eoKi  lor  tlie  leet.  i^acli  lias  Ins  department:  Kane  is 
writing,  sketehing.  and  proji'cting  maps;  Hayes  eopying 
h)gs  and  meteorologieals;  Sontag  redueing  his  work  at 
Fern  Rock.     A  fourth,  Jis  one  of  the  working  members 


III  ,'>     .■'■'■  <.\     ,'■'. 


VISITING      THE      OliSERV  ATOR  Y. 


of  the  hive,  has  k>ng  been  defunct :  you  will  find  him 
in  l)ed,  or  studying  'LittelTs  Living  Age.'  At  twelve, 
a  l)usiness  round  of  inspection,  and  orders  enough  to 
fdl  up  the  day  with  work.  Next,  the  drill  of  the  Es- 
quimaux dogs, — my  own  peculiar  recreation, — a  dog- 
trot, specially  refreshing  to  legs  that  creak  with  every 
kick,  and    rheumatic   shoulders   that   chronicle  every 


all 


U  N  I'  A  L  A  T  A  15  L  K      F)  I  K  T. 


171 


(k'scent  of  tlu3  \vhi[).  And  so  we  '^yt  ou  to  (linncr-tiine; 
the  occasion  of  {mother  gatliering,  wliich  misses  the  tea 
and  coHce  of  breakfast,  but  rejoices  in  pickled  cabbage 
iind  dried  peaches  instead. 

•'At  dinner  as  at  breakfast  the  r  vv  potato  comes  in, 
our  livgienic  luxury.  Like  doctor-stuff  genertdly,  it  is 
jiot  as  appetizing  as  desirable.  Grating  it  down  nicely, 
leaving  out  the  ugly  red  spots  liberally,  and  adding  the 
utmost  oil  as  a  lubric^ant,  it  is  as  much  as  I  ciin  do  to 
porsuiide  the  mess  to  shut  their  eyes  and  bolt  it,  like 
.Mi's.  S([ueers's  molasses  and  brimstone  at  Dotheboys 
Hall.  Two  absolutely  refuse  to  taste  it.  I  tell  them 
of  the  Silesiaiis  using  its  leaves  as  spinai^h,  of  the 
whalers  in  the  South  Seas  getting  druidv  on  the  mo- 
lasses which  had  preserved  the  large  potatoes  of  the 
Azores, — I  point  to  this  gum,  so  fungoid  and  angr\'  the 
day  before  yesterday,  and  so  ilat  and  amial)le  to-day, — 
all  l)y  a  potato  poultice:  my  eloquence  is  wasted:  they 
persevere  in  rejecting  the  admirable  compound. 

''Sleep,  exercise,  amusement,  and  work  at  will,  carry 
on  the  day  till  our  six  o'clock  supper,  a  meal  something 
like  breakfast  and  something  like  dinner,  only  a  little 
more  scant:  and  the  officers  come  in  with  the  reports 
of  the  day.  Doctor  Hayes  shows  me  the  log,  I  sign  it; 
Soiitag  the  w^eather,  I  sign  the  weather;  Mr.  Bonsall 
the  tides  and  thermometers.  Thereupon  comes  in  mine 
iuicient,  Brooks;  and  I  enter  in  his  journal  No.  8  all  the 
work  done  under  his  charge,  and  discuss  his  labors  for 
the  morrow. 

"McGary  comes  next,  with  the  cleaning-up  arrange- 


'i 


I  :■ 


;l 

i 

i 

i 

i\''4   W 


r   . 

■  V- 

:  i 

\ 

i       . 

.J 

lyiiiLjiiLi 

HI'    'i 


■''!|j' 


t:i.  '-    i 


It  . 


i  -I 


...  •  n 


? 

f 

.  si 

j 

rf 

1 

■\\ 

,•1 

>■: 

1 

■■ll 


\T1 


T  11  !•:      AM  U  S  E  M  K  X  T  S. 


ment,  inside,  outside,  and  on  decks;  and  Mr.  Wilson 
follows  with  ice-measurements.  And  last  of  all  comes 
my  own  record  of  the  day  gone  l)y;  every  line,  as  1 
look  back  upon  its  pages,  giving  evidence  of  a  weak- 
ened body  and  harassed  mind. 


WINTER     LIFE      ON      BOARD      SHIP. 


"We  have  cards  sometimes,  and  chess  sometimes, — 
and  a  few  magazines,  Mr.  Littell's  thoughtful  present, 
to  cheer  away  the  evenintr. 

"March  11,  Saturday. — All  this  seems  tolerable  for 
commonplace  routine;  but  there  is  a  lack  of  comfort 


u 


Wilson 
I  comes 
lie,  iis  I 
a  weak- 


times, — 
present, 

•able  for 
comfort 


i 


THE     LAB  ()  K  S. 


173 


which  it  does  not  tell  of.  Our  fuel  is  limited  to  three 
bucket luls  of  coil  a  day,  and  our  menu  temperature 
outside  is  4:0°  below  zero;  4()°  Ijelow  as  1  write,  Lou- 
don Brown  Stout,  and  somebody's  Old  Brown  Slu-rry, 
freeze  in  the  cabin  lockers;  and  the  carlines  overhead 
are  hung  with  tubs  of  chopped  ice,  to  make  water  for 
our  d;iily  drink.  Our  lam[)s  cannot  be  persuaded  to 
bui'u  salt  lard;  our  oil  is  exhausted;  and  we  work  l)y 
iiuiddy  tapers  of  cork  and  cotton  lloated  in  saucers. 
We  have  not  a  pound  of  fresh  meat,  and  only  a  barrel 
of  potatoes  left. 

"Not  a  man  now,  except  Pierre  and  Morton,  is  ex- 
ein[)t  IVom  scurvy;  and,  as  I  look  around  upon  the  pale 
faces  and  haggiird  looks  of  my  comrades,  I  feel  that  we 
are  liLihliug  the  battle  of  life  at  disadvantage,  and  that 
ail  Arctic  night  and  an  Arctic  day  age  a  man  more 
ra[)idly  and  harshly  than  a  year  anywdiere  else  in  all 
tliio  weary  world. 

"March  13,  Monday. — Since  January,  we  have  been 
working  at  the  sledges  and  other  preparations  for  travel. 
The  death  of  my  dogs,  the  rugged  obstacles  of  the  ice, 
and  the  intense  cold  have  obliged  me  to  reorganize  our 
whole  equipment.  We  have  had  to  discard  all  our 
India-rubber  fancy-work :  canvas  shoe-making,  fur-sock- 
ing, sewing,  carpentering,  are  all  going  on;  and  the 
cabin,  our  only  fire-Avarmed  apartment,  is  the  work- 
shop, kitchen,  parlor,  and  hall.  Pemmican  cases  are 
thawing  on  the  lockers ;  buffalo  robes  are  drying 
around  the  stove ;  camp  equipments  occupy  the  cor- 
ners;   and   our  wo-begone   French    cook,  wdth  an  in- 


III 


lilil 


i  i 


4 : 

•1^ 


t 


lli 


<    t 
'    <    .  I 


I 


1 

i 

1^ 

i 

(     ■ ' 

'\ 

t 

t 

i     ■ 

; 

1 

' 

i     [ 


0t^ 


I  1 


!" 


i    UL 


Si  ll 


,"  'iji 


:  ll 

(  ; 

|:i|r:ii- 

n 

ik.  i 

174  THE     TEMPEIi  ATU  RE. 

finitude  of  useless  saucepans,  insists  on  monopolizing 
the  stove. 

"March  15,  Wednesday. — The  mean  temperature  of 
the  last  five  days  has  been, 

March  10 — 40°.03 

11 — 45°.G0 

12 --4G°.G4 

13 — 40°.5G 

14 --4G°.05 

giving  an  average  of  — 46°  30',  with  a  variation  be- 
tween the  extremes  of  less  than  three-quarters  of  a 
degree. 

"  These  records  are  remarkable.  The  coldest  month 
of  the  Polar  year  has  heretofore  been  February;  but 
we  are  evidently  about  to  experience  for  March  a 
mean  temperature  not  only  the  lowest  of  our  own 
series,  but  lower  than  that  of  an^'^  other  recorded 
observations. 

"  This  anomalous  temperature  seems  to  disprove  the 
idea  of  a  diminished  cold  as  we  approach  the  Pole. 
It  will  extend  the  isotherm  of  the  solstitial  month 
higher  than  ever  before  projected. 

"The  mean  temperature  of  Parry  for  March  (in  lat. 
74°  30')  was  — 29°;  our  own  will  be  at  least  41° 
below  zero. 

"At  such  temperatures,  the  ice  or  snow  covering 
offers  a  great  r.:!sistance  to  the  sledge-runners.  I  have 
noticed  this  in  training  my  dogs.  The  dry  snow  in  its 
finely-divided   state  resembles  sand,  and  the  runners 


opol 


izing 


ruture  of 


=.03 
°.60 
°.04 
°.50 
°.C5 

iation  be- 
tel's of  a 

ist  month 

.ary ;   but 

March  a 

our   own 

recorded 

pro\e  the 
the  Pole, 
al   month 

i\i  (in  lat. 
least  41° 

covering 
.  I  have 
now  in  its 
e  runners 


THE 


EIS-FOD. 


175 


creak  as  they  pass  over  it.  Baron  Wrangell  notes  the 
same  fact  in  Siberia  at  — 40°. 

"The  difficulties  of  draught,  however,  must  not  inter- 
fere with  my  parties.  I  am  only  waiting  until  the  sun, 
now  13°  high  at  noon,  brings  back  a  little  warmth  to 
the  men  in  sleeping.  The  mean  difference  between 
bright  clear  sunshine  and  shade  is  now  5°.  But  on 
the  10th,  at  noon,  the  shade  gave  — 42°  2',  and  the 
sun  — 28°;  a  difference  of  more  than  fourteen  degrees. 
This  nuist  make  an  impression  before  long. 

••  March  17,  Friday. — It  is  nine  o'clock,  v.  m.,  and  the 
thermometer  outside  at  — 4G°.  I  am  anxious  to  have 
this  depot  party  off;  but  I  must  wait  until  there  is  a 
promise  of  milder  weather.  It  nmst  come  soon.  The 
sun  is  almost  at  the  equator.  On  deck,  I  can  see  to 
the  northward  all  the  bright  glare  of  sunset,  streaming 
out  in  long  bands  of  orange  through  the  vapors  of  the 
ice-foot,  and  the  frost-smoke  exhaling  in  wreaths  like 
those  from  the  house-chimneys  a  man  sees  in  the 
valleys  as  he  comes  down  a  mountain-side." 

I  must  reserve  for  my  official  report  the  detailed 
story  of  this  ice-foot  and  its  changes. 

The  name  is  adopted  on  board  ship  from  the  Danish 
''Eis-fod,"  to  designate  a  zone  of  ice  wdiicli  extends 
along  the  shore  from  the  untried  north  beyond  us 
almost  to  the  Arctic  circle.  To  the  south  it  breaks 
up  during  the  summer  months,  and  disappears  as  high 
as  Upernavik  or  even  Cape  Alexander;  but  in  this 
our  high  northern  Avinter  harbor,  it  is  a  perennial 
growth,  clinging  to  the  bold  faces  of  the  cliffs,  foUow- 


I ' 


u 

?  : 
■I  ■ 

I 

■I,: 


I 


ij'jjiti' 


f 


'.  f 


1 

1\ 

1 

! 
1 

u 

Hi 

1 

ll 


\,Ht 


:"  ni 


■  .'  I 


8'  ^i' 


i 

■if.,  1 

i  ^   ' 

i     { 

•  ly  \ 

1     J      •     !i 

.,    1 

1  '"  f 

, 

Ji 

•'itili 

ii    i 

■  .1 


.ill   : ": ' 


I 


17G 


T  11  F.      I  ('  i;-H  K  LT. 


ing  tlio  sweeps  of  the  hays   and   the-   Indentations  of 
rivers. 

This  hroad   [)hitf()nn,  altlion^h    chanuin.ii;  witli    the 
seasons,  never  disappears.     It  served  as  onr  highway 


-^*^>v-*^yi^  , 


-uaXW^^'""*"--     ': 


MARY      LEIPEH      RIVER-THE       ICE-BELT 


of  travel,  a  secure  and  level  sledge-road,  perched  liigh 
above  the  grinding  ice  of  the  sea,  and  adapting  itself 
to  the  tortuosities  of  the  land.  As  such  I  shall  call  it 
the  «' ice-belt." 

I  was   familiar  with   the   Arctic   shore-ices   of  the 
x\.siatic  and  American  explorers,  and  had  personally 


brolv( 


Vol.. 


tioiis  of 

k'ith    the 
high  way 


'■:v  ' 


m 


;lied  high 
ing  itself 
all  call  it 


s   of  the 
lersonally 


J 

I, 


I 


T  II  K      1  ("  K-H  ELT. 


«  4 


studied  the  same  foniiutions  in  "Wellingroii  ('haniud. 
Avhero,  previously  to  the  ])reseiit  voyage,  thcv  might 
have  heen  sii})[)used  to  reach  their  greatest  deveh)[)m«^-nt. 
But  this  wonderful  structure  has  here  assumed  a  form 
■wliich  none  of  its  lesser  growths  to  the  south  hud  ex- 
hihited.  As  a  physical  feature,  it  ma^-  l)e  regarded  as 
hardly  second,  either  in  imptn'tancc  or  [)r()minence,  to 
the  glacier;  and  us  an  agent  of  geological  ehange,  it  is 
in  the  highest  degree  interesting  and  instruetive. 

Altli(mgh  subject  to  occasionul  disruption,  and  to 
loss  of  volume  from  evaporation  and  thuws,  it  measures 
the  severity  of  the  yeur  by  its  rates  of  increase.  Kis- 
ing  with  the  first  freezings  of  the  lute  sunmier,  it  crusts 
the  sea-line  with  curious  fretwork  and  arabescpies:  a 
little  later,  and  it  receives  the  rude  shock  of  the  drifts, 
and  the  collision  of  falling  rocks  from  the  clifls  which 
margin  it:  before  the  early  winter  has  darkened,  it  is 
a  wall,  resisting  the  grinding  floes;  und  it  goes  on 
gathering  increase  und  strength  from  the  successive 
freezing  of  the  tides,  until  the  melted  snows  und  wuter- 
torrents  of  summer  for  a  time  check  its  progress. 
During  our  first  winter  ut  Rensseluer  Harbor,  the  ice- 
Ijelt  grew  to  three  times  the  size  which  it  hud  upon 
our  arrivul;  und,  by  the  middle  of  Murch,  the  islunds 
and  adjacent  shores  were  hemmed  in  by  un  investing 
plane  of  nearly  thirty  feet  high  (27  feet)  and  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  wide. 

The  ice-foot  ut  this  seuson  w\as  not,  however,  un  un- 
broken level.  It  had,  like  the  fioes,  its  barricades,  ser- 
ried and  irreiiidur;  wliich  it  wus  u  work  of  ureat  laboi 

Vol.  1.—1-2 


f'i 


J I 


I     I 
I 


-1   ^'1 

I 

i 

1 

j 

I 

: 

;                            1 

ii 

:     1 

1  ■ 
1 

i  i 

;'  ■.i  , 


:t       , 


^i 


' '  li 


'  '  1 

i     1 

i  1  ■,: 

,    M 

--'-— 

! 

;    |i    :|ii| 

!■! 

il'iHjl         1   J 

iliii 

i    i;          1 

178 


ICE-  H  K  L  T      K  X  C  K  O  A  Cll  J  N  G. 


and  Honu'  diHiciilt  v  to  tnivorso.  Our  storo.s  wore  in  con- 
sc'(|ueiicL'  nearly  inaocesHibU';  and,  as  tlie  ice-foot  still 
continued  to  extend  itself,  piling  ice-table  upon  ice-table, 
it  threatened  to  encroach  upon  vour  anchorafro  and  peril 
the    safety  of  the   vessel.     The    ridges    were    already 


ICE-DELI      Or       E*HLY      WINTER. 


within  twenty  feet  of  her,  and  her  stern  was  sensibly 
lifted  up  by  their  pressure.  AVe  had,  indeed,  been  puz- 
zled for  six  weeks  before,  by  remarking  that  the  tloe 
we  were  imbedded  in  was  gradually  receding  from  the 
shore;  and  had  recalled  the  observation  of  the  Danes 
of  Upernavik,  that  their  nets  were  sometimes  forced 
away  strangely  from   the  land.     The  explanation  is. 


was 

to  S( 

the 

Eiul 

scan 

to  a 

cold, 

vclle 


K  X  1'  i:  I)  I  T  1  t>  X      I"  li  i;  I'  A  I{  I  NT! 


179 


re  in  oon- 

-loot  still 

ice-table, 

and  peril 

i    ill  ready 


k 


\ 


■^■"'*rf3" 


as  sensibly 
I,  bcc'H  puz- 
at  the  floe 
from  the 
the  Danes 
inies  forced 
(hmation  is. 


•■5 


(T 

o 


perhaps,  to  Ite  found  in  the  alti'rnate  action  of  the  tides 
and  frosi ;.  bnt  it  would  be  t)ut  of  place  to  enter  n[)on 
tiic  discussion  here. 

"March  IS,  Saturday. — To  day  our  sprin<;-ti(h's  <iave 
to  the  nuissive  lee  which  sustains  our  littU'  vessel  a 
rise  and  fall  of  seventeen  feet.  The  crunchinu'  and 
urindin^',  the  dashin|i;  of  the  water,  ihe  ^urglinj:'  of  the 
eddies,  and  the  toppling-  ovtr  of  the  nic(dy-poised  ice- 
tables,  were  unlike  the  more  brisk  dynanncs  of  hum- 


iCe-lllt     and    f^oe. 


mock  action,  bnt  conveyed  a  more  striking  expression 
of  power  and  dimension.    • 

"The  thermometer  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning 
was  minus  49°;  too  cold  still,  I  fear,  for  our  sledgemen 
to  set  out.  But  we  packed  the  sledge  and  strapped  on 
the  boat,  and  determined  to  see  how  she  would  drag. 
Eiuht  men  attached  themselves  to  the  lines,  but  were 
scarcely  able  to  move  her.  This  may  be  due  in  part 
to  an  increase  of  friction  produced  by  the  excessive 
cold,  according  to  the  experience  of  the  Siberian  tra- 
vellers; but  I  have  no  doubt  it  is  principally  caused  by 


^1 


\l 


i 

':  1 ' 

! 

* 
1 

1 

i 
1      ;                ■ 

i;  ■ 

I 

1,1 


I 


l«J^ 


IT  '•■'iri 


■\  i^ 


180 


T  11  E     D  K  1'  A  K  T  U  R  E. 


the  very  thin  rumors  of  our  Esquimaux  sledge  cuttiii'v 
through  the  snow-crust. 

"The  excessive  refraction  this  evening,  which  en- 
tirely lifted  up  the  northern  coast  as  well  as  the  ieo- 
hergs,  seems  to  give  the  i)romise  of  milder  Aveather. 
In  the  hope  that  it  may  be  so,  I  have  fixed  on  to-morrov/ 
for  the  departure  of  the  sledge,  after  very  reluctantly 
dispensing  with  more  than  two  hundred  pounds  of  her 
cargo,  besides  the  boat.  The  party  think  they  can  uet 
alonsi:  with  it  now. 


EXCESSIVE       REFRACTION      OF      BERGS. 


"March  20,  Monday. — I  saw  the  depot  party  oil' 
yesterday.  They  gave  the  usual  three  cheers,  with 
three  for  myself  I  gave  tliem  the  whole  of  my  bro- 
ther's great  wedding-cake  and  my  last  two  bottles  of 
Port,  and  they  pulled  the  sledge  they  were  harnessed 
to  famously.  But  I  was  not  satisfied.  I  could  see  it 
was  hard  work;  and,  besides,  they  were  without  the 
boat,  or  enough  extra  pemmican  to  make  their  deposit 
of  importance.  I  followed  them,  therefore,  and  found 
that  the}'-  encamped  at  8  p.  m.  only  five  miles  from  the 
brig. 


ge  cutting 


which  011- 
,s  the  ice- 
'  weather, 
to-morrow 
eUictaiitly 
lids  of  her 
ey  can  get 


hi 


,  party  off 
leers,  with 
of  my  bro- 
bottles  of 
harnessed 
oukl  sec  it 
ithout  the 
leir  deposit 
and  found 
s  from  the 


'■  n 


i  {:^; 


I  ! 


tc 


i 


I 


^ 


i!         t: 


ii 


n 

S 


■\ 

■. 

si' 


III 


if; 


!'  1... 

Mini 


;,■.! 


1 


■ 

1  ■ 

■1  1 

1 

i     <t 


if' 


:i::f.i 


.1  'l 


s  ■  .  !i 


mg; 


li.l 


GOO  D-IJ  YK 


A      S  U  U  r  R  I  S  E. 


181 


"  When  I  overtook  them,  I  said  nothing  to  dis- 
courage them,  and  gave  no  new  orders  for  the  morn- 
ing; but  after  laughing  at  good  Ohlsen's  rueful  face, 
and  listening  to  all  Petersen's  assurances  that  the  cold 
and  nothing  but  the  cold  retarded  his  Greenland  sledge, 
and  that  no  sledge  of  any  other  construction  could 
have  been  moved  at  all  through  minus  40°  snow,  I 
quietly  bade  them  good-night,  leavinp*  all  hands 
under  their  buffaloes. 

"Once  returned  to  the  brig,  all  my  tired  remainder- 
men were  summoned:  a  large  sled  with  broad  runners, 
which  I  had  built  some^vhiit  after  the  neat  Admiralty 
model  sent  me  by  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  was  taken 
down,  scraped,  polished,  lashed,  and  fitted  with  track- 
ropes  and  Tu&-ra(ldies ;  the  lines  arranged  to  draw  as 
near  as  possible  in  a  lino  with  the  centre  of  gravity. 
We  made  an  entire  cover  of  canvas,  with  snugly- 
adjusted  fastenings;  and  by  one  in  the  morning  we 
had  our  discarded  excess  of  pemmican  and  the  boat 
once  more  in  stowage. 

"  Off  we  went  for  the  camp  of  the  sleepers.  It  was 
very  cold,  but  a  thoroughly  Arctic  night;  the  snow 
just  tinged  with  the  crimson  stratus  above  the  sun, 
wliich,  equinoctial  as  it  was,  glared  beneath  the  north- 
ern horizon  like  a  smelting-furnace.  We  found  the 
tent  of  the  party  by  the  bearings  of  the  stranded  bergs. 
Quietly  and  stealthily  we  hauled  away  their  Esqui- 
maux sledge,  and  placed  her  cargo  upon  'the  Faith.' 
Five  men  were  tlien  rue-raddied  to  the  track-lines ; 
and   with    the    whispered    word,    'Now,   boys,   when 


i 


tiili! 


u 


V        ■  • 

'           t    > 

.  !-i!  .i|i   ' 

I 


I- 


182 


A      SECOND     GOOD-BYE. 


Mr.  Brooks  gives  liis  third  snore,  off  ■with  you!'  off 
they  went,  and  'the  Faith'  after  them,  as  free  and 
nimble  as  a  volunteer.  The  trial  was  a  triumph.  We 
awakened  the  sleepers  with  three  cheers ;  and,  giving 
them  a  second  good-bye,  returned  to  the  brig,  carrying 
the  dishonored  vehicle  along  witli  us.  And  now,  bating 
mishaps  past  anticipation,  I  shall  have  a  depot  for  my 
long  trip. 

"  The  party  were  seen  by  McGary  from  aloft,  at 
noon  to-day,  moving  easily,  and  about  twelve  miles 
from  the  brig.  The  temperature  too  is  rising,  or 
rather  unnustakably  about  to  rise.  Our  lowest  wtifs 
— 13°,  but  our  highest  reached  — 22° ;  this  extreme 
range,  with  the  excessive  refraction  and  a  gentle 
misty  air  from  about  the  S.E.,  makes  me  hope  that  we 
are  going  to  have  a  warm  spell.  The  party  is  well 
off.     Now  for  my  own  to  follow  them !" 


( !  rt      ■       1  , 


;^--^A% 


m 


^^Il 


you !'  off 
free  and 
iph.  We 
lid,  giving 
:,  carrying 
DW,  bating 
)ot  for  my 

aloft,  at 
dve  miles 
rising,  or 
Dwest  was 
s  extreme 

a  gentle 
)C  that  we 
ty  is  well 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

PREPARATION — TEMPERATURES — ADVENTURE — AN     ALARM — PARTY 

ON  "THE    FLOES RESCUE    PARTY  —  LOST    ON    THE    FLOES  —  PARTY 

FOUND  —  RETURN  —  FREEZING  —  RETURNING   CAMP  —  A   BIVOUAC 
—  EXHAUSTED ESCAPE  —  CONSEQUENCES. 

•'March  21,  Tuesday. — All  hands  at  work  house- 
cleaning.  Thermometer  — 48°.  Visited  the  fox-traps 
with  Hans  in  the  afternoon,  and  found  one  poor  ani- 
mal frozen  dead.  He  was  coiled  up,  with  his  nose 
buried  in  his  bushy  tail,  like  a  fancy  foot-muff  or  the 
imc-dlcu  of  a  ro3'al  sinner.  A  hard  thing  about  his 
flite  was  that  he  had  succeeded  in  effecting  his  escape 
from  the  trap;  but,  wdiile  working  his  way  under- 
neath, had  been  frozen  fast  to  a  smooth  stone  by  the 
moisture  of  his  own  breath.  He  was  not  probably 
aware  of  it  before  the  moment  when  he  sought  to 
avail  himself  of  his  hard-gained  liberty.  These  sad- 
dening thoughts  did  not  impair  my  appetite  at  supper, 
where  the  little  creature  looked  handsomer  than  ever. 

'•March  22,  Wednesday. — We  took  down  the  for- 
ward Ijuikhead  to-day,  and  moved  the  men  aft,  to  save 
tuel.     All   hands    are   still    at  work  clearing  up   the 

183 


ii 


:  I 

il 


tl 


„-  I 


184 


!•  \{  i:  !•  A  If  A  I"  I  (>  \. 


1 1      "» 


>f^ 


^ 


A 


(  I 


'J    • 


■  :"  i 


(leeks,  (lie  serjipers  soimdiii,!;'  «)verlie;i<l,  iiiid  llie  liickoi-v 
brooms  iTaeUlinj;"  a^iiinsl  the  IVo/en  woodwork.  Al'lcr- 
iiooii  eoMU'S,  and  Medai-y  hrinj^s  iVoiii  llie  Iraps  Iwo 
loxes,  a  l)liie  and  a  white.  Al'teniooii  passes,  and  we 
skin  theni.  KviMiini;'  [)asses,  and  we  eat  tlieni.  Ncscr 
wiMv  foxes  more  welcome  visitors,  or  (realed  more  like 
dtunestie  animals. 

••  Mareh  2'>,  Thnrsday. — The  aeeunudated  iec  n|Min 
onr  honsing  shows  what  the  eondensed  and  IVo/eu 
nioistnre  of  the  winter  has  heen.  The  aAcraiic  thick- 
ness of  this  cnrions  deposit  is  live  inches,  very  hard 
and  well  crvstalli/ed.  Si.v  cart-loads  have  heen  already 
chopped  ont,  and  ahout  I'onr  more  remain. 

"  Tt  is  very  lar  from  a  hardship  to  sleep  nnder  sncli 
an  ice-roof  as  this.  In  a.  climate  where  the  intense 
cold  approximtites  all  ii'c  to  granite,  its  thick  air-ti,i:iit 
coating  contribnti's  to  onr  "warmth,  gives  a,  heantiCul 
and  cheerfnl  Instre  to  onr  avails,  and  condenses  any 
vapors  which  our  cooks  allow^  to  escape  the  fnnnels,  I 
only  remove  it  iiow^  because  I  fear  the  olfects  of  damp 
in  the  season  of  sunshine. 

"  Marcli  27,  jNIonday. — We  have  heen  for  some  days 
in  all  the  tlurry  of  preparation  for  our  exploration 
trip  :  buflalo-hides,  letither,  and  tailoring-utensils  every- 
where. Every  particle  of  fur  conies  in  play  for  niits 
and  nnitls  and  wrappers.  Poor  Flora  is  turned  into  a 
pair  of  socks,  and  looks  almost  as  pretty  as  when  she 
was  heading  the  team. 

'"The  wind  to-day  made  it  intensely  cold.  In  riding 
but  four  miles   to  inspect  a  fox-trap,  the  movement 


ic  liickiiry 
k.  Al'lcr- 
h'Mps  two 
s,  iiud  uc 
II.  NcNcr 
more  like 

1  ice  iiiioii 
ii(!  IVo/iMi 
a^c  thick- 
VCM'V  liiud 
I'M  iilrcadv 

mdcr  such 
lie  intense 
k  iiir-tiiilit 
beaut  il'ul 
enses  any 
mnels.  T 
s  of  damp 

[some  da3s 
ploratioii 
[sils  ovevy- 
for  mits 
led  into  a 
when  slie 

In  riding 
Inovenient 


I 


T  i:  M  it:  li  A  'I'  i-  K  i:s.  185 

iVn/e  my  cheeks  <wic<'.  We  avoid  nnisks  witli  ;:,reat 
care,  reservinj^  them  lor  the  seveicr  weather:  (lie  jaw 
when  [)rotected  recovers  very  soon  the  sensibility  which 
(>N|)()Sure  has  subdued. 

'•Our  [)arty  is  now  out  in  its  ninth  day.     It  has  had 
some  trying  weaiher : 

On  tlio  l(»Mi —iTM 

liOth — :55^4 

21st — 10°.:J7 

22(1 —  7°.47 

2;{(i —  \p.(r 

2:tii — ]s°.:;j 

25th — ;u^80 

2f;th — 12^8 

27th — :UM]8 

of  mean   daily   temperature;    making    an    average   of 
27°.l'>  below  zero. 

"March  !iO,  We(hies(hiy. — I  have  been  ont  with  my 
dog-sledge,  inspecting  the  ice  to-day  from  the  north- 
western headland.  There  seems  a  marked  (hllerence 
between  this  sound  and  other  estu.aries,  in  the  number 
of  ice-bergs.  Unlike  Prince  Regent's,  or  Wellington, 
or  Lancaster  Sounds,  the  shores  here  are  lined  with 
ulaciers,  and  the  water  is  everywhere  choked  and 
harassed  hy  their  discharges.  This  was  never  so  appa- 
rent to  me  as  this  afternoon.  The  low  sun  lit  up  line 
after  line  of  lofty  bergs,  and  the  excessive  refraction 
elevated  them  so  much,  tli.iL  I  thought  I  could  see  a 
chain  of  continuous  ice  ruiminir  on  toward  the  north 
until  it  was  lost  in  illimital)le  distance. 


Hi 

ri 


% 


il 


ISO 


A  I)  V  K  N  T  U  U  i; 


'•Miircli  'W,  Fridnv. —  I  \v;is  within  an  ace  to-day  of 
losiiiLi'  mv  »lous,  every  one  of  tlieni.  Wlien  I  reached 
the  ice-foot,  tliev  halked  : — wlio  woidd  not? — tlie  tide 
Avas  h)\v,  the  ice  rampant,  and  a  jnni|)  of  fonr  feet 
necessary  to  reacdi  tlie  crest.  The  howling  of  tlic 
wind    an(     the   wliirl   of   the   snow-drift    coni'usi'd    the 


i      :> 


n 


^  ii 


i 

:  J! 

1 

■  h  V- 1 

' 

:       i      '      ! 

;■ .:  ,'i  1 

)■'.': 

Li, 

m 

■  i             ; 

^f .".  f/J"  - 


^Jf^te. 


NORTH WrsTERN   HEADLAND 


poor  creatures ;  but  it  was  valuable  training  for  them, 
and  I  strove  to  force  them  over.  Of  course  I  was  on 
foot,  and  they  had  a  light  load  behind  them.  'Now. 
Stumpy!  Now,  Whitej'^ !'  'Good  dogs!'  ' Tu-lee-ee-ee ! 
Tuh !'  They  went  at  it  like  good  stanch  brutes,  and 
the  next  minute  the  whole  team  was  rolling  in  a  lump, 
some  sixteen  feet  below  me,  in  the  chasm  of  the  ice- 
foot.    The  drift  was  such  that  at  first  I  could  not  see 


t 


to-day  of 
I  iviu'lu'd 
— tlu>  tide 
four  feet 
ly;  ol'  llic 
ifllscd     the 


^£^'- 


for  them, 
^e  I  was  on 
■m.  'Now. 
'u-lcc-nC'-w! 
brutes,  and 
in  a  lump, 
of  the  ice- 
uhl  not  see 


SUDD  !•:  N'     A  L  A  U  M. 


is: 


tlieni. 


The  roariii';'  of  tlie  tide  and  the  sidKhicd  wail 


of  the  dou's  made  me  fear  for  the  worst.  I  had  to  walk 
throii,!;h  tiie  hrokeii  ice,  whlcli  rose  in  toppling;'  s[)ires 
over  niv  head,  for  nearly  fii'tv  yards,  hcfort^  T  found  iin 
o[)C'nin.n  to  the  iee-l'aee,  hy  which  I  was  ahle  to  rlind) 
down  to  tlieni.  A  few  cuts  of  a  shoath-knife  ndejisod 
them,  although  the  caresses  of  the  dear  brutes  had  like 
to  have  been  fatal  to  me,  I'or  1  had  to  straddle  with 
one  foot  on  the  fast  iee  and  tho  other  on  loose  [)ik'd 
ruhl)ish.  Ihit  1  got  a  line  attaedied  to  the  er()ss-])ioces 
of  the  sledge-rnnncrs,  linng  it  uj)  on  the  ice-fc)ot,  and 
then  piloted  my  dogs  ont  of  their  slough.  Tn  about 
ten  minutes,  we  were  sweating  along  at  eight  miles  an 
hour." 

Every  thing  looked  promising,  and  we  w^ero  only 
waiting  for  intelligence  that  our  advance  party  had  de- 
posited its  provisions  in  safety  to  begin  our  transit  of 
the  bay.  Except  a  few  sledge-lashings  and  some  trilling 
accoutrements  to  finish,  all  was  ready. 

We  were  at  work  cheerfully,  sewing  a\vay  at  the 
skins  of  some  moccasins  by  the  blaze  of  our  lamps, 
when,  toward  midnight,  we  heard  the  noise  of  steps 
above,  and  the  next  minute  Sontag,  Ohlsen,  and  Peter- 
sen came  down  into  the  (  djin.  Their  manner  startled 
me  even  more  than  their  unexpected  appearance  on 
board.  They  were  swollen  and  haggard,  and  hardly 
ahle  to  speak. 

Their  story  was  a  fearful  one.  They  had  left  their 
companions  in  the  ice,  risking  their  own  lives  to  bring 


t 


n 


■ 

^ 

lglil 

II      >> 


i  :  ii  I 


it  :  r 


I 

1 

1 1 . 

1  <lii  ^'1 

mmm 

i  '1 

:)    ;': 


W 


•  i;tl    ,,i 


188 


us  the  news 


I'AKTY     ON      TlIK      FLOKS. 


15 


rooks. 


W, 


I  Kit, 


\\'\h 


il  1 


son,  and  ru'rrc  wore 


Jill  lying  IVozen  and  (lisal)l('(l.  Wliero  ?  Tlit'^  could 
not  ti'U  :  somowlu'iv  in  anionn'  the  luninnocUs  (o  tiie 
nortii  and  cast;  it  was  ilril'tiiig  licavily  round  llicm 
when  they  parted.  Trisli  Tom  hud  stayed  by  to  leed 
and  cure  lor  the  others;  hut  the  chances  were  sorely 
against  them.  It  was  in  vain  to  ((uestion  them  fur- 
ther. They  had  evidently  travelled  a  great  distance. 
for  they  were  sinking  Avith  fatigue  and  hunger,  and 
could  hardly  he  rallied  enough  to  tell  us  the  direction 
in  which  they  had  come. 


THE       R  E  '   C  L'  E       t"  fl  t!  t  Y . 


My  first  impuls"  was  to  move  on  the  instant  with  an 
unencumbered  party :  a  rescue,  to  be  effective  or  even 
hopeful,  could  not  Ije  too  prompt.  What  pressed  on 
my  mind  most  was,  where  the  sufferers  were  to  be 
looked  for  among  the  drifts.  Ohlsen  seemed  to  have 
his  faculties  rather  more  at  command  than  his  asso- 
ciates, and  I  thought  that  he  might  assist  us  as  a 
guide ;  but  he  was  sinking  with  exhaustion,  and  if  he 
went  with  us  we  nnist  carry  him. 


.    It 


1 1 

I, 


RES  err.      TAKTV. 


ISO 


'icriH'  wore 
'li('\  could 
'ks  to  the 
)Uiul   tlii'in 

by  to  IV'i'tl 
rero  sorely 

tlu'iu  fiir- 
t  (listanee, 
linger,  aiul 
e  direction 


•«T.. 


,>.^ 


Imt  with  an 
\o  or  even 
pressed  on 
Ivere  to  be 
led  to  have 
lu  his  asso- 
Ist  us  as  a 
and  if  he 


There  was  not  a  nio!n«'nt  to  bo  lost.  AVhile  some 
wore  still  busy  with  the  new-comers  and  <i('ttin<i;  ready 
a  hasty  meal,  others  were  rigging  out  the  "  [iittle 
Willie"  with  a  butl'alo-cover,  a  small  tent,  and  a  p;i< 
aire  of  uenuniean;  and,  as  soon  as  we  eonld  Iii' 
through  our  arrangements,  Ohlsen  was  strap[)ed  on  in 
a  fur  bag,  his  legs  wra|)j)ed  in  dog-skins  and  eider- 
down, and  we  were  olf  upon  the  ice.  Our  party  eon- 
,Misted  of  nine  men  and  my.self  AVe  carried  oidy  the 
clothes  on  our  backs.  The  thermometer  stood  at 
— [(\°,  seventy-eight  degrees  below  the  freezing-point. 

A  well-known  peculiar  tower  of  ice,  called  by  the 
men  the  "'Pinnacly  Berg,"  served  as  our  lirst  land- 
mark: other  icebergs  of  colossal  size,  which  stretched 
in  long  beaded  lines  across  the  bay,  helped  to  guide  us 
afterward ;  and  it  w^as  not  until  we  had  travelled  for 
sixteen  hours  that  wo  began  to  lose  our  way. 

"We  knew  that  our  lost  companions  must  be  some- 
where in  the  area  before  us,  within  a  radius  of  forty 
miles.  Mr.  Ohlsen,  who  had  been  for  fifty  hours  with- 
out rest,  fell  asleep  as  soon  as  we  began  to  move,  and 
awoke  now  with  unequivocal  signs  of  mental  disturlj- 
ance.  It  became  evident  that  he  had  lost  the  bearing 
of  the  icebergs,  which  in  form  and  color  endlessly  re- 
peated themselves ;  and  the  uniformity  of  the  vast  lield 
of  snow  utterly  forbade  the  hope  of  local  landmarks. 

Pushing  ahead  of  the  party,  and  clambering  over 
some  rugged  ice-piles,  I  came  to  a  long  level  Hoe,  which 
I  thought  might  probably  have  attracted  the  eyes  of 
weary  men  in  circumstances  like  our  own.     It  was  a 


h 


1 

:  ''^' 

! 

;     i' 

iii- 

M  ■ 

> 

''■'■'  ,'■ 

':       -i 

i*      !i 


a 


]  i  m 


I  ■'  -1 


it 


Ml 


;     f 


■  I 


I     1 


.     I 

I 


1.^ 


a 


.  j  ta 


:  i 


i   .  5 


, 

^'1 

;r^ 

*   7  ^ 

i 

1     1    ■■' 

1        i':     .  '■- 

,k  I 

f   -^ 

I         ■  'a    1: 

T    1    ■-: 

il 

"■ 

iJi 

I 

190 


R  E  S  C  U  K      PA  R  T  Y. 


light  conjecture;  but  it  wjis  enough  to  turn  the  scale, 
for  there  was  no  other  to  balance  it.  I  gave  orders  to 
abandon  the  sledge,  and  disperse  in  search  of  foot- 
marks. We  raised  our  tent,  placed  our  pennnican  in 
cache,  except  a  small  allowance  for  each  man  to  carry 


PINNACLY      BERG. 


on  his  person ;  and  poor  Ohlsen,  now  just  able  to  keep 
his  legs,  was  liberated  from  his  bag.  The  thermometer 
had  fallen  by  this  time  to  — i0°.3,  and  the  wind  was 
setting  in  sharply  from  the  northwest.  It  was  out  of 
the  question  to  halt:  it  required  brisk  exercise  to  keep 
us  from  freezing.  I  could  not  even  melt  ice  for  water; 
and,  at  these  temperatures,  any  resort  to  snow  for  the 


iii 


LOST     ()  X     T  II  i:     F  i.o  !•;  s. 


191 


1         ■     !  ' 

i  ;  ! 


the  scale, 

orders  to 

li   (3f  foot- 

iimican  in 

n  to  carry 


)lo  to  keep 
lennoineter 
c  wind  was 
was  out  oC 
isc  to  keep 
for  water ; 
■iiow  for  the 


pur})Oso  of  allaying  thirst  was  followed  by  bloody  lips 
and  tonii'ue  :  it  burnt  like  caustic. 

Xi  was  indispensable  then  that  we  should  move  on, 
looking  out  [ov  traces  as  we  went.  Yet  when  the  men 
were  ordered  to  spread  themselves,  so  as  to  nndtiply 
the  chances,  though  they  all  obeyed  heartily,  some 
painful  impress  of  solitary  danger,  or  perhaps  it  may 
have  ])een  the  varying  conliguration  of  the  ice-deld, 
kept  them  closing  up  continually  into  a  single  group. 
The  strange  numner  in  which  some  of  us  were  allected 
I  now  attribute  as  much  to  shattered  nerves  as  to  the 
direct  iniluence  of  the  cold.  jNlen  like  McGary  and 
Bonsall,  avIio  had  stood  out  our  severest  nuirches,  were 
seized  with  trembling-fits  and  short  Invath;  and,  in 
spite  of  all  my  efforts  to  kee})  up  jin  example  of  sound 
bearing,  1  i'ainted  twice  on  the  snow. 

We  had  l)een  nearly^  eighteen  hours  out  without 
water  or  food,  when  a  new  hope  cheered  us.  I  think 
it  was  Hans,  our  Esipiinuiux  hunter,  who  thought  he 
saw  a  broad  sledge-track.  The  drift  had  nearly  effaced 
it,  and  we  were  some  of  us  doubtful  at  first  whether  it 
was  not  one  of  those  accidental  rifts  which  the  gales 
make  in  the  surface-snow.  But,  as  we  traced  it  on  to 
the  deep  snow  among  the  lunnmocks,  we  were  led  to 
footsteps;  and,  following  these  with  religious  cave,  we 
at  last  came  in  sight  of  a  small  American  flag  flutter- 
ing  from  a  hummock,  and  lower  down  a  little  Masonic 
banner  hanging  from  a  tent-pole  hardly  above  the  drift. 
It  was  the  camp  of  our  disabled  conn\ades  :  we  reached 
it  after  an  unbroken  nnirch  of  twentv-one  hours. 


,i' : 


r    I 


.    {  I 


iii 


'''K 


u 

■  u 


I 

.  1 

: 

1 

> 

II 

l>    I 


.1:  :   I 


.A\, 


li  '^.fl 


f 

'il 

i 

iqf 

1 

i 

yil 

J: 

192 


r  A  R  T  Y      F  O  U  N  D. 


The  little  tent  was  nearly  covered.  I  was  not  amon<T 
the  first  to  come  uj) ;  but,  when  I  reached  the  tent-cur- 
tain, the  men  were  standing  in  silent  file  on  each  side 
of  it.  With  more  kindness  and  delicacy  of  feeling  than 
is  often  supposed  to  belong  to  sailors,  but  which  is 
almost  characteristic,  they  intimated  their  wish  that  I 
should  go  in  alone.  As  I  crawled  in,  and,  coming  upuii 
the  darkness,  heard  before  me  the  burst  of  welcome 
gladness  that  came  from  the  four  poor  fellows  stretched 
on  their  backs,  and  then  for  the  first  time  the  cheer 
outside,  my  weakness  and  my  gratitude  together  almost 
overcame  me.  "  They  had  expected  me :  they  were 
sure  I  would  come !" 

AVe  were  now  fifteen  souls;  the  thermometer  se- 
venty-five degrees  below  the  freezing-point;  and  our 
sole  accommodation  a  tent  barely  able  to  contain  eight 
persons :  more  than  half  our  party  were  obliged  to  keep 
from  freezing  by  walking  outside  while  the  others 
slept.  We  could  not  halt  long.  Each  of  us  took  a 
turn  of  two  hours'  sleep;  and  we  prepared  for  our 
homeward  march. 

We  took  with  us  nothing  but  the  tent,  furs  to  pro- 
tect the  rescued  party,  and  food  for  a  journey  of  fifty 
hours.  Every  thing  else  was  abandoned.  Two  large 
buffalo-bags,  each  made  of  four  skins,  were  doubled  up, 
so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  sack,  lined  on  each  side  by  fur, 
closed  at  the  bottom  but  opened  at  the  top.  This  was 
laid  on  the  sledge ;  the  tent,  smoothly  folded,  serving  as 
a  floor.  The  sick,  with  their  limbs  sewed  up  carefullj' 
in  reindeer-skins,  were  placed  upon  the  l)ed  of  buffalo- 


not  among 
le  tciit-cur- 
11  each  side 
eeling  than 
t  wliicli  is 
>visli  that  I 
fining  upon 
of  -svelconnj 
v's  stretched 
e  the  clicev 
ither  ahnost 
they  were 

[lometer  se- 
it;  and  our 
pntain  eight 
Lged  to  keep 
the  others 
f  us  took  a 
red   for   our 

fars  to  pro 
•ney  of  fifty 
Two  hu'ge 
doubled  up, 
side  by  fur, 
This  was 
d,  serving  as 
up  carefully 
d  of  Ijuffiilo- 


r  i:  R  1  L  O  U  S     K  E  T  U  R  N. 


103 


robes,  in  a  half-reclining  posture;  other  skins  and 
blanket-bags  were  thrown  above  them;  and  the  whole 
Utter  was  lashed  together  so  as  to  allow  but  a  single 
opening  opposite  the  mouth  for  breathing. 

This  -lecessary  work  cost  us  a  great  deal  of  time  and 
effort;  but  it  was  essential  to  the  lives  of  the  sufferers. 
It  took  us  no  less  than  four  hours  to  strip  and  refresh 
tlieni,  Jiiiu  then  to  embalc  them  in  the  numner  1  have 
described.  Few  of  us  escaped  without  frost-bitten 
fingers :  the  thermometer  was  at  55°. 0  below  zero,  and 
a  slight  wind  added  to  the  severity  of  the  cold. 

It  was  completed  at  last,  however;  all  hands  stood 
round;  and,  after  repeating  a  short  prayer,  we  set  out 
on  our  retreat.  It  was  fortunate  indeed  that  we  were 
not  inexperienced  in  sledging  over  the  ice.  A  great 
part  of  our  track  lay  among  a  succession  of  hunnnocks; 
:^onie  of  them  extending  in  long  lines,  fifteen  and 
twenty  feet  high,  and  so  uniformly  steep  that  we  had 
to  turn  them  by  a  considerable  deviation  from  our 
direct  course ;  others  that  we  forced  our  Avay  through, 
far  above  our  heads  in  height,  lying  in  parallel  ridges, 
with  the  space  between  too  narrow  for  the  sledge  to  be 
lowered  into  it  safely,  and  yet  not  wide  enough  i'or  the 
runners  to  cross  without  the  aid  of  ropes  to  stay  them. 
These  spaces  too  were  generally  choked  with  light 
suow,  hiding  the  openings  between  the  ice-fragments. 
They  Avere  fearful  traps  to  disengage  a  limb  from,  for 
every  man  knew  that  a  fracture  or  a  sprain  even  would 
cost  him  his  life.  Besides  all  this,  the  sledge  was  top- 
heavy  with  its  load :  the  maimed  men  could  not  bear 

Vol.,  I.— 1:5 


f: 


:    :?! 


ait 


^ii*  i; 


!;i)li 


■■•f : . 


■Ji* 


''  J 


N!      ;:  ■ 

i                   1   j       ' 

194 


s  u  I)  I)  K  X    s  i:  (•  ('  i;  .m  b  i  n  c. 


I    '^ 


I: 


'I  IM 


1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

j!    ..-  - 

4 

'', 

ii 

' 

' 

■    t 

■:'• ! 

f 

1 

'  ^^'i 

1  '^  !| 

1  r  A',il 

If 

tJ 

M 

1         :, 

to  be  laslic'd  down  tiiilit  ciioii^ii  to  secure  tlieni  against 
falling  oft".  Notwithstanding  our  caution  in  rejecting 
every  supertluous  burden,  tl'e  weight,  including  bags 
and  tent,  was  eleven  hinidred  pounds. 

And  yet  our  inarch  for  the  first  six  hours  was  very 
cheering.  We  made  by  vigorous  pulls  and  lifts  nearly 
a  mile  an  hour,  and  reached  the  new  floes  Ijefore  we 
were  absolutely  weary.  Our  sledge  sustained  the  ti-iiil 
admirably.  Ohlsen,  restored  Ijy  lope,  walked  steadily 
at  the  leading  belt  of  the  sledge-lines;  and  1  Ijegan  to 
feel  certain  of  reaching  our  halfway  station  of  the  (l;i\- 
before,  where  we  had  left  our  tent.  But  we  were  still 
nine  miles  from  it,  when,  jdmost  without  premonition. 
we  all  became  aware  of  an  alarming  faihuv  of  our 
energies. 

I  was  of  course  familiar  with  the  benumbed  and 
almost  lethargic  sensation  of  extreme  cold;  and  once. 
when  exposed  for  some  hours  in  the  midwinter  of 
Baffin's  Bay,  I  had  experienced  symptoms  Avhich  I 
compared  to  the  diffused  paralysis  of  the  electro-gal- 
vanic shock.  But  I  had  treated  the  sleepy  comfni  of 
freezing  as  something  like  the  embellishment  of  ru- 
mance.     I  had  evidence  now  to  the  contrary. 

Bonsall  and  Morton,  two  of  our  stoutest  men,  came 
to  me,  begging  permission  to  sleep:  "they  were  not 
cold:  the  wind  did  not  enter  them  now:  a  little  slcv']) 
was  all  they  wanted."  Presently  Hans  wjis  found 
nearly  stiff  under  a  drift;  and  Thomas,  bolt  ujjriglit. 
had  his  eyes  closed,  and  could  hardly  articulate.  At 
last,  John   Blake  threw  hinisidf  on  the  snow,  and  re- 


K  E  r  U  H  N  I  X  G      C  A  M  P. 


105 


ilii!: 


in  agaiii!<t 

iviot'tiiiu' 

ding   bags 

^  was  \vv\ 
il'ts  nearly 
betbre  we 
d  the  trial 
'd  steadily 
1  began  to 
of  the  day 
x  i^veiv  still 
L'emonitiou. 
uro  of  our 

umbed  and 
and  onee, 
dwinter  of 
IS  whieli  I 
electro-gal- 
comforf  ol' 
nent  of  ru- 

men,  came 
\'  ^vere  not 
little  sleep 
was  found 
)U  n))riglit. 
nlate.  At 
()\v.  and  re- 


fused to  rise.  They  did  not  complain  of  feeling  cold; 
but  it  was  in  vain  tluit  I  wrestleil,  boxed,  ran,  argned, 
jeered,  or  reprimanded  :  an  immediate  !udt  conld  not 
be  avoided. 

We  pitched  our  tent  with  much  difficulty.  Our 
iiaiids  were  too  powerless  to  strike  a  fire:  we  Avere 
obligetl  to  do  without  water  or  food.  Even  the  spirits 
(whisky)  had  frozen  at  the  men's  feet,  under  all  the 
coverings.  We  put  IJonsall,  Ohlsen,  Thomas,  and  Hans, 
witii  the  other  sick  men,  well  inside  the  tent,  and 
crowded  in  as  nniny  others  as  we  could.  Then,  leaving 
the  i)aity  in  charge  of  Mr.  McGary,  with  orders  to 
coiue  on  after  four  hours'  rest,  I  pushed  ahead  with 
William  Godfrey,  who  volunteered  to  be  my  com- 
panion. My  aim  was  to  reach  the  halfway  tent,  and 
thaw  some  ice  and  pemmican  before  the  others  arrived. 

The  lloe  was  of  level  ice,  and  the  walking  excellent. 
1  cannot  tell  how  long  it  took  us  to  make  the  nine 
miles;  for  we  were  in  a  strange  sort  of  stupor,  and  had 
little  apprehension  of  time.  It  was  probably  about 
four  hours.  We  kept  ourselves  awake  by  imposing  on 
each  other  a  continued  articulation  of  words;  they 
must  have  been  incoherent  enough.  I  rocall  these 
hours  as  among  the  most  wretched  I  have  ever  gone 
through:  we  were  neither  of  us  in  our  right  senses, 
and  retained  a  very  confused  recollection  of  what  pre- 
ceded our  arrival  at  the  tent.  We  both  of  us,  however, 
remember  a  bear,  who  walked  leisurely  before  us  and 
tore  up  as  he  went  a  jumper  that  Mr.  McGary  had 
improvidently  throv^n  off  the  day  before,     lie  tore  it 


■'}I1-M 


i    i 
ti 


1  < 


MU 


•i  I 


V 


*  V 

I 

III  il 


i 


I  A 


-hi 


■I 


Ml,,;. 


lOG 


A     U  I  V  ()  U  A  C. 


into  sluvfls  {irid  rolled  it  into  a  l)all,  Imt  never  olTercd 
to  interfere  with  our  progress.  1  remember  tlii.s,  and 
with  it  a  confused  sentiment  that  our  tent  and  ])ufliil()- 
robes  might  probably  share  the  same  fate.  GodlVcy. 
with  whom  the  memory  of  this  day's  work  may  atone 
for  many  faults  of  a  later  time,  had  a  better  eye  than 
myself;  and,  looking  some  miles  ahead,  he  eould  sec 
that  our  tent  was  undergoing  the  same  unccremoniou.s 
treatment.  I  thought  I  saw  it  too,  but  we  were  so 
drunken  with  cold  that  we  strode  on  steadily,  a}id,  for 
aught  I  know,  without  quickening  our  pace. 

Probal)ly  our  approach  saved  the  contents  of  the 
tent;  for  when  we  reached  it  the  tent  was  uninjured, 
though  the  bear  had  overturned  it,  tossing  the  builalo- 
robes  and  pemmican  into  the  snow;  we  missed  only  a 
couple  of  blanketrbags.  What  we  recollect,  however, 
and  perhaps  all  we  recollect,  is,  that  we  had  great  diffi- 
culty in  raising  it.  We  crawled  into  >ar  reindeer 
sleeping-bags,  without  speaking,  and  for  the  next  throe 
hours  slept  on  in  a  dreamy  but  intense  slumber. 
When  I  awoke,  my  long  beard  was  a  mass  of  ice, 
frozen  fast  to  the  buffaloskin :  Godfrey  had  to  cut  me 
out  with  his  jack-knife.  Four  days  after  our  escape,  I 
found  my  woollen  comfortable  with  a  goodly  share  of 
my  beard  still  adhering  to  it. 

We  were  able  to  melt  water  and  get  some  soup 
cooked  before  the  rest  of  our  party  arrived :  it  took 
them  but  five  hours  to  walk  the  nine  miles.  They 
were  doing  well,  and,  considering  the  circumstances,  in 
wonderful  spirits.     The  day  was  most  providentially 


E  X  II  A  U  S  T  E  D. 


Ill- 


windlcf^s,  with  u  clear  yiin.  All  enjoyed  the  reiVesh- 
iiieiit  we  had  got  ready :  the  crippled  were  repacked  in 
their  robes;  and  we  sped  briskly  toward  the  hummock- 
ridges  which  lay  between  us  and  the  Pinnacly  Jk-rg. 

The  hummocks  we  had  now  to  meet  came  properly 
under  the  desigmition  of  squee/x'd  ice.  A  great  chain 
of  bergs  stretching  from  northwest  to  southeast,  moving 
Avith  the  tides,  had  compressed  the  surface-tloes ;  and, 
rearing  them  up  on  their  edges,  produced  an  area  more 
like  the  volcanic  pedragal  of  the  basin  of  Mexico  than 
any  thing  else  I  can  compare  it  to. 

It  required  desperate  efforts  to  work  our  way  over 
it, — literally  desperate,  for  our  strength  failed  us  anew, 
and  we  begiin  to  lose  our  self-control.  We  could  not 
abstain  any  longer  from  eating  snow :  our  mouths 
swelled,  and  some  of  us  became  speechless.  lfap[)ily 
the  day  was  warmed  by  a  clear  sunshine,  and  the 
thermometer  rose  to  — 4°  in  the  shade :  otherwise  we 
must  have  frozen. 

Our  halts  multiplied,  and  we  fell  half-sleeping  on 
the  snow.  I  could  not  prevent  it.  Strange  to  say,  it 
refroslied  us.  I  ventured  upon  the  experiment  myself, 
making  Riley  wake  mo  at  the  end  of  three  minutes ; 
and  I  felt  so  much  benefited  by  it  that  I  timed  the 
men  in  the  same  way.  They  sat  on  the  runners  of  the 
sledge,  fell  asleep  instantly,  and  wtm^c  forced  to  wake- 
fulness when  their  three  minutes  were  out. 

By  eight  in  the  evening  we  emerged  from  the  iloes. 
The  sight  of  the  Pinnacly  Berg  revived  us.  Brandy, 
an  invaluable  resource  in  emergency,  had  already  been 


■:!' 


!'■ 

• 
1 

•  1 

■  1 

;  1 

'  j 

T 
1 

■■{■ 


1    »    ' 

:  I  ,. 

1  i 

|l 

*,;Jt 

lyi 

Mi 

i  II 


IDS 


i;sc  A  I'  r, 


I'  i;  i:  A  r  m  i;  n  t 


I  Hi 


\l 


i   \    ■ 

III 

t  -■  ■ 


'  ■  i 
f  1  \ 
■1      ,- 


.S«M\(M|    out     m 


tMhli 


CS    l(M» 


iilni    (l(>s«'s.       \Vr   n 


ow 


tool 


<    ;i 


lonmT  r»'sl,  iinil  ;i    l;is(    Itiil    sloiilci-  drum.  ;ni<l    rciiclKMl 
l.lu>  hriii'  ill   I   1'.  M..  wo  hclicvr  wilhoiil  m  liiili. 


1 


Sil\     !!•( 


h,l 


II  n 


illKl 


irrc   ixTliiiits   IS 


lie    in»»s 


I    <l. 


I'idctl  proof  {)['  our  siillcrini;s  :    we  wi'ic  (juilr  (Nlirioiis. 
!in«l  liiid  «'«>iis(Ml  to  (Milcrliiiii  ;i  smih'  ji|)|tr<'lM'iision  ol'  lli<> 


(•in-umslMiu'cs  jiltoiit    \is. 


\\ 


r  moved  on   like  mni  m  ;i 


(li't'jim.      Our  looliUMrks  s(M>ii  Jil'lcrwiird  sliowcd  licit 
li.'id  stcci'rd  ;i  lu'i'-linc  lor  IIm"  l)riu'.      Il  miisl  l)ii\r  I 


we 


MM'll 


hv    M    soft    of   itisliiu'l.    lor    i(    loll    no    im|»rcss    on    lli(> 
mcmorx .       Housnil    wns    scut     slM^jA'crini;'    nliciid.    .iik' 


r(';»"li«'d   llu»    \)\''\iX,  (Jod    knows    how.   I<)r    he    liiid    IjiII 


<'ii 


r(*|i(';»l(Mll\  Ml  llic  Irack-lim^s ;  hnl  Ik*  delivered  wilh 
|)nnelili«Mis  jiceuraev  llie  messM^es  I  Inid  seni  hv  him 
I   Hioniihl    m\s(dr  Ihe  sonndesi   (»!'  ;ill. 


\o  Dr.  IImv 


(VS. 


lor  1  weni  llironiih  all  ihe  formnla  of  sanilv.  and  ciin 
recall  llu»  nnilUM'inii;  thdii-inm  of  my  eomradivs  when  we 
u;()t  ]>aek  inio  llu*  eahin  ol"  (tnr  hrii;'.      Yet  1  have  1 


•ecu 


told 


sniee  ol    somt*   spcnnMies   anil    some   onliM's   loo  o 


d( 


m 


ine.  whieh   1  shonld    have*   nMUemhered    lor  their  ah 


surdilv  il  niv  mind  lian  retained  ils 


I  h 


hal 


\\\co 


IVtersou  and  Whipple  eanie  out  lo  meet  ns  ahoiit 
two  mili^s  Iroiu  Ihe  hriu'.  They  brought  my  do,ii,-leam. 
with  the  restoratives  1  had  sont  lor  by  IJonsall.  I  do 
not  remember  their  oomini;'.  Dr.  Hayes  enton'd  with 
judicious  oueriiy  upon  the  treatment  oiir  condilioii 
called  tor.  administering:  niori)hiue  I'reely.  alter  the 
usual  iVictions.  lie  reportiul  none  of  our  brjiin-syiiip- 
toms  as  serit)ns,  relerriuii'  them  properly  to  the  class  of 
those  indications  of  exhausted   power  which   yield  to 


I  ' 


(■  ()  \  s  i:  (^  r  i;  \  c  \:  s. 


I'.)'.) 


1(1    rruclicd 

(•    innsi    tlf 
('  (IclirMtii-. 
isioii  (>r  lllr 
V  u\r\\  in  ;i 
;V{\   tlllll   \vr 
I  liii\r  Ihm'm 
■('SS    on    llir 
!\li('ii<l.    ini(' 
IkmI    iiilltn 
i\('r«>(l   Willi 
m>nt   l>v  liiiii 
idcsl   ol'  ;»ll. 
ii\-,  iiud  ('Mil 
l(>s  wIkmi  wc 

li;iVO    I)('(M1 
ItM'S    !(»(»    ol 

>r  tluMr  m1)- 

rt  u>^  jil)(iut 
V  (loji'-tcMin. 
)HSilll.       1  tl*' 

nlcrctl  Nvitli 
,ir  (.'ondituHi 
V,  iU'tor  tlu' 
hniin-svinp- 
the  class  oi' 
ich    vielil  io 


irclicrdl 


IS  (lid  iiihI  r<'sl.      Mr.  ()lilscn  miIIIiciI  roinr  lit 


n<' 


iViiiii  sli'jil>isiiiiis  mill  ItliiidiK'SS  :  I\m»  others  iiiidcrwcnl 
;iiii|iiil!iti<>ii  of  piirls  1)1  llic  Tool,  svillioiil  iiii|ilciis:iiit. 
(•()iis('(|ii('ii('('s  ;  iind  l\v<»  died  in  s|»itc  of  :dl  (Mir  clloi'ls. 
This  rescue  |»iirlv  hiid  heen  out  lor  seveiit  v-t  wo  hoiii's. 
We  li;id  hulled  in  iill  ei^hl  hours,  hiiH'  of  our  iiuiiihei 
slee|)iii,L!  ;il  il.  lime.  We  Irjivelled  hetweeii  ei;.dity  iili(| 
iiiiietN  miles,  mosi ol'llie  W!iy  draii^inu  ;i  lie;i\\'  >|e(|M(.. 
The  iiieim  lein|)er:iliire  ol"  the  whole  lime,  iiieliidiii;^; 
the  wiirmesl  hours  ol"  three  (hiys,  \v!is  iit  minus  I  I'. 2. 
We  liiid  no  wilier  ('\('e|it  at  our  two  liidts,  iiikI  were  at, 
IK)  time  ahl(!  to  intermit,  vigorous  exercise  without 
iVec/in.ii;. 

"April  4,  l^iesday. —  i^'onr  days  hav(^  passed,  and  I 
Mill  a!:ain  at.  my  record  of  lailiires,  sound  hut,  a,(diin^ 
still  ill  every  joint.  The  reseneil  men  are  not  out.  of 
(limii'er,  hut  their  uTatiliide  is  very  t.oiiehin^.  Pray 
(Jod  that  tliev  may  live  !" 


INSIDE       OF       TtNT. 


S      7 


i  , 


t% 


tt' 


CIIAITKH    XVIT. 


BAKKRS    DKATIl  —  A    VISIT —  IIIK    KSQIUMAIX  —  A    NKOOTI  A  I'luN  — 


^ 


y     -vv. 


■<     'ii 


TIIKIK       I'.gril'Ml'.NT 


TIIKIH       1»KIM»|{TMKNT 


•I'UKA'I'V  —  Tin; 


lAKKV.I'.l, 


ILLNK!S!S. 


TIIK     SKQUKL MVOUK IllS     KSCAI'K  —  SCIILUJKKT  ,s 


The  wcok  that  ioUowod  has  left  iiio  iiothiiii!;  to  re- 
nuMubor  hut  anxietiot  and  sorrow.  Nearly  all  our 
party,  as  woll  the  roscviers  as  the  rescuuHl,  were  tossiiiL! 
in  their  sick-hunks,  sonic  frozen,  others  undertroiiiii- 
amputations,  several  with  dreadful  })renionitions  oC 
tetanus.  I  was  myself  amon,u:  the  fn'st  to  he  al)oul: 
the  necessities  of  the  others  claimed  it  of  me. 

Earlv  in  the  mornin'''  of  the  7tli  I  was  awakened  hv 
a  sound  from  IJaker's  throat,  one  of  those  the  most 
friii'htful  and  ominous  that  ever  startle  a  plivsiciau's 
(Mir.  The  hu-k-jaw  had  seized  him, — that  dark  visitant 
whose  foreshadow ings  were  on  so  many  of  us.  His 
symptoms  marched  rapidly  to  their  result :  he  died  on 
the  8th  of  April.  AVe  placed  him  the  next  day  in  his 
coflin,  and,  forming  a  rude  but  heartfull  procession, 
bore  him  over  the  broken  ice  and  up  the  steep  side  of 

the  ice-foot  to  Butler  Island ;   then,  passing  along  the 

•joo 


■>!  •;  h 


%i»l 


K.dOTIA  rioN  — 
•UKAI'Y  —  I'lll. 
,SClUJUKin''> 


thini!;  to  rc- 
rly  all  our 
vero  tossiu}:' 
undoi^iroiiig 
oiiilioiis  ot" 
)  1)0  tihoiit: 

1110. 

wakonod  by 
0   tho  most 

phys'u'iiui's 
u'k  visitant 
Df  us.     His 

ho  (liod  on 
b  day  in  his 

procossion, 
oop  side  of 
along  tho 


I!  A  K  K  n    S      l)K  A  T  M. 


201 


<ii<>w-lovol  to  Forn  IJooU,  and.  ('liMd)in,ir  tlio,sl(>|)('  ol'lln- 


Ohsorvatoi'v.  wo  doposilod  Ins  corijsc  upon  llic  |i('drsti;ls 
hich    iiad    soi'vod    to    siipporl    (nir    transit-instruinont 


w 


:ui(l  (lioodo 


ito 


Wo  road  tlio  sorvico  lor  llic  hui-ial  of 


tho  doa<l,  spriidvlin;^'  over  liini  snow   for  dust,  and  ro- 
|M'at('(l    tlio    liord's    Prayer;    and    llion,   icin,Li   up  a;xai!» 


lie  dpcnm.L;,'   \\\   ino  wans  \v( 


til 


dh 


had 


inado   to  admit   tho 


10 


cdHin.  loft  him  in  his  narrow  iiouso. 

.Iclll'i'son  BaUor  was  a  man  of  kind  heart  and  tn 
|)rin(i|»l«'S.  I  know  him  when  we  were  hotli  younucr. 
I  j);issed  two  lia[)[)y  seasons  at  a  little  ootta,L!('  adjoiinn;.^ 
his  fatlio»-'s  farm.  lie  thou,!j,ht  it  a  privilo^ic  to  join 
this  oxjx'dition,  as  in  those  ^roon  snnunor  days  when 
1  had  allowed  him  to  lake  a  «;im  with  me  on  some 
shooting-part}.  lie  rcdiod  on  mo  with  tho  afVeotionato 
conlidenoe  of  I)oyliood,  and  I  never  gave  him  a  harsh 
word  or  a  hard  thought. 

We  were  wat(dnng  in  tho  morning  at  Baker's  death- 
bed, when  one  of  our  dook-wateh,  who  had  been  outting 
ice  for  tho  midtor,  came  hurrving  down  into  tho  cabin 
with  the  ri'[)ort,  '' Po()[)lo  hollaing  ashore!"  I  wont  up, 
followed  hy  as  many  as  could  mount  tho  gangway; 
and  there  they  wore,  on  all  sides  of  our  rocky  liarhor. 
(lotting  tho  snow-shores  and  emerging  from  tho  black- 
ness of  the  cliil's, — wild  and  uncouth,  but  ovidontlv 
liiunan  beings. 

As  we  gathered  on  the  dock,  thoy  rose  upon  the 
more  elevated  fragments  of  tho  land-ice,,  standing  singly 
;ni(l  coiis^jicuonsly  like  tho  (igures  in  a  tableau  of  the 
upera,  and  distributing  thomsolves  around  almost  in  a 


J 

PI 

1 
t 

P 

IT 

ifdil'ii 


r  I  ■ 


* 

. 

•    i; 

1 

i  i 

;(       f  *'  I 


4i 


I  i 


i  rt|:^1if 


r  I' 


.1 


202 


KSQl'  I  M  A  I   X      V  1  S  1  TO  US. 


liall-circU'.  Tlii'v  wcr*'  voiitl'rat'mg  (is  if  to  uttracl  our 
uttc'iitiou,  or  perhaps  only  to  giv(^  vent  to  tlirir  siir- 
priso ;  hut  1  I'oiild  make  iiothiiig  out  of  tlicir  ci'ics, 
ox('0|)t  •vlloali.  ha,  ha  I"  and  '"Ka,  kaali!  ka,  kafdi !" 
ivpeati'd  over  and  over  again. 


MEETING      THE       ESQUIMAUX, 


There  Avas  light  enough  for  me  to  see  that  tliev 
brandished  no  weapons,  and  were  only  tossing  their 
heads  and  arms  about  in  violent  gesticulations.  A 
more  unexcited  inspection  showed  us,  too,  that  their 
numbers  were   not  as   o-reat   nor   their   size   as  Pata- 


T  IF  K      K  S(.'  r  I  M  A  V  X. 


'JO:; 


rroiiiMii  iis  soiiK'  ol'  US  li;i(l  hcrii  disposed  to  fiincN'  at 
(list.  Ill  a  woi'd.  I  was  .satisl'u'd  lliat  tlicx  were  natives 
ofthi' coiuitrv;  and.  calling  Pctcrscii  IVom  liis  Imnk  tt» 
lie  iiiv  iiitiTprt'tiT.  I  proi'iH'dcd,  imannod  and  \va\inLi' 
iiiv  o|H'ii  hands,  toward  a  stout  liuuiv  who  made  liiui- 
sclf  conspicuous  and  sccnu'd  to  liusc  a  ,urcatcr  nunduT 
near  iniu  than  the  rest.  He  evidently  understood  the 
movement,  for  he  at  once,  like  a  hrave  lellow,  lea[)ed 
down  u[)on  the  tloo  and  advanced  to  meet  me  fully 
liall-wav. 

Ih'  was  nearly  a  head  taller  than  myself,  extremely 
|)()werl'ul  and  wtdl-built,  with  swarthy  com[ile\ion  and 
piercing  l)lack  eyes.  His  dress  was  a  iK/oded  (((jtofr 
or  jumper  of  mixed  white  and  hhie  lbx-[)elts,  arranged 
with  something  of  fancy,  and  booted  trousers  of  white 
l)L'ar-skin,  Avhich  at  the  end  of  the  foot  were  made  to 
terminate  with  the  ehuvs  of  the  animal. 

I  soon  came  to  an  luiderstanding  with  this  gallant 
diplomatist.  Ahnost  as  soon  as  we  commenced  our 
parley,  his  companions,  probably  receiving  signals 
from  him,  flocked  in  and  surrounded  us;  but  we  had 
no  dilliculty  in  making  them  know  positively  that  they 
must  remain  where  they  were,  while  Metek  went  with 
me  on  board  the  ship.  This  gave  me  the  advantage 
of  negotiating,  with  an  important  hostage. 

Although  this  was  the  first  time  he  had  ever  seen 
a  white  man,  h<'  went  with  me  fearlessly;  his  com- 
panions staying  behind  on  the  ice.  Ilickey  took  them 
out  what  he  esteemed  our  greatest  del'*cacies, — slices 
of  good  wheat  bread,  and  corned  pork,  with  exorbitant 


••      ! ! 


\l 


■'.       I 


i 


§ 


201 


A      N  EGOT  1  A  T  1  OX, 


lumps  of  white  su^ar;   hiit  tlicv  ivCiisi'd  lo  toiu-ii  tl 


ICJU 


Thov  had  evident! 


y  no  apiM'elicnsion  of  open  violence 


Ironi  IIS.      1  loiind  afterward   that  several  ainonji'  tl 
were  singly  a  niuteh  for  the  white  I 


lem 


th 


tear  and  I  lie  wah'iis 


and  tiiat  thev  thonuht  us  a  v(>rv  pale-faced  ei 


ow. 


'f^%lt^ 


IJeinii;  satisfied  with  my  interview  in  the  eahiii.  1 
sent  out  word  that  the  rest  miij^ht  Uv  admitted  to  llic 
ship;  and,  although  they,  of  course,  could  not-  know 
how  their  chief  had  heen  dealt  with,  some  nine  or  ten 
of  them  followi'd  with  l)oisteroiis  readiness  u[)on  llio 
hidding.      Others   in    ihe   mean   time,  as   if  disposed  to 


II  i:  I  K    i;<j  r  i  !■  m  i:  n  t 


2)i 


oivc  us  llicir  compiinv  Inr  tlu'  full  limo  of  ;i  visit, 
hroimlit  up  iVoin  lu'hind  tlu>  laiul-icc  as  inan\' as  liltx- 
si\  line  dogs,  uilh  llicir  sUmIucs.  and  si'ciired  tiu'iu 
\vitliiM  two  hundrod  ivvt  of  the  hriii,',  diivin^'  tiicir 
l;nii'»'s  into  tlic  ii'c,  and  pickelini;'  (lie  do<;s  to  llu'ui  I)\' 
llic  s('al-sl<in  (races.  Tlie  animals  understood  (lie 
operation  ju'rleetlv,  and  lay  down  as  soon  as  it  coni- 
uicueed.       The    sledi;'es  were    nnule   u|)  ol"  small    IVau- 


■II 


NAlnl      SLfUCiE,    iKOOMtllK,'       .lllULAIt     HONE     lU      WHALl. 


iiuMits  of  |)orous  bone,  admirably  knit  toii'etluM*  by 
ihoiiiis  of  bid(»;  the  ruinuM-s,  which  lilistencd  like  bur- 
iiislietl  steed,  wi'i'e  of  hii;hly-|)olished  ivoi-y,  obtaincMl 
iVoiu  llu>  tusks  of  the  walrus. 


ded 


The  onh'  arms  thev  carried  were  knives,  coiicea 
in  their  boots;  but  their  lances,  which  were  lashed  lo 
the  sledti'es.  were  (juite  a,  foriuidable  weapon.  The 
St, ill'  was  ol"  lh(»  horn  of  the  narwhal,  or  tdse  of  the 
tliiuli-honivs  of  the  bear,  two  lashe(l  toii'cther,  or  some- 
times the  mirabilis  of  the  walrus,  three  or  four  ol'lhem 


1 1 


1    ^ol 

^      '"^ 

.            ■, 

i      II 

; 

\ 

: 

5 

'   i 

;| 

1 

1 
i 

1' 

'i; 

P  'i^: 


B    -Jf 


'.!!    ■!  :« 


20G 


T  II  K  1  R      KQ  f  I  I'M  E\  T. 


iiiiitt'd.  This  last  was  a  I'avorite  luatorial  also  for  the 
cross-bars  of  their  sUhIucs.  T\w\  had  no  wood.  A 
single  rusty  hoop  from  a  (.'urront-drifted  cask  nii,uht 
have  furnished  all  the  knives  of  the   party;    but  tlio 


HOOP-IRON      KNIFE,      (SEVIK) 


lleani-shtiped  tips  of  their  lances  were  of  unmistakabk 
steel,  and  were  riveted  to  the  taperiug  bony  point 
with  no  mean  skill.  I  learned  afterward  that  the 
metal  was  obtained  in  tralHc  from  the  more  southern 
tribes. 


^N'    \  L   •<  O  S        L  A  K  C  E . 


I  give  drawings  of  the  lance-head,  and  of  the  knives 
which  the  party  carried.  They  were  clad  much  as  I 
have  described  Metek,  in  jum[)ers,  boots,  and  white 
bear-skin  breeches,  with   their  feet  decorated  like  liis. 


nig 


Til  EI  K      UEPO  KT  M  K  X  T. 


207 


iHilH 


unmistakable 
•  bony  point 
ird  that  the 
ore  southern 


)f  the  knives 
(I  nuieh  as  I 
i,  and  whito 
ited  like  his. 


eii  (jriffc.  A  strip  of  knotted  leather  worn  round  the 
neek,  very  greasy  and  dirty-looking,  which  no  one 
could  1)0  persuaded  to  part  with  lor  an  instant,  was 
mistaken  at  first  for  an  ornament  by  the  crew :  it 
was  not  until  mutual  hardships  had  made  us  better 
;u'(|uainted  that  we  learned  its  mysterious  uses. 


NESSAK,     (JUMPER-MOOD,)     IN     HIS     THA^tLL   N-S     DKCbS. 

When  they  were  lirst  allowed  to  come  on  board, 
th(y  were  very  rude  and  difficult  to  manage.  They 
spoke  three  or  lour  at  a  time,  to  each  other  and  to  us, 
huiiihing  heartily  at  our  ignorance  in  not  understand- 
ing them,  and  then  talking  away  as  before.  They 
were  incessantly  in  motion,  going  everywhere,  trying 
doors,  and  squeezing  theuiselves  through  dark  passages, 


j 

( 

\ 

! 

'2{)S 


T  II  !•;  I  u     II  i;  I'o  u  1'  M  i;  n  t, 


irrfl' 


.1^ 


round  cjisks  jind   l)()\<'s,  imd   out    into  llu'   li^lit  ;ij;;iiii 
MMxioiis    lo   loii.-li    Mild    liiiiidlc   ('vor>    lliiiii;    lli('\    s;i\v 


:ni( 


1  ;isN 


III! 


lo!\  or  else  ciKli'MA-orii 


lo  siciil,  cvcrN'  (liiii» 


nun 


{\ic\    IoiicIkmI.      It    \v;is    llic    more    dilliciill    !(►   r<'sl 
llicin.  !is  1  did  no!  wish   (licm  lo  sii|)|)os('   tliiil  we  wen 


Ml 


inliiiiidMt 


<M| 


Hill   II 


icrc    U(M'0    SOIIH'    SliillS   ol'  oil 


disMhlcd  condilioii  wliicli  i|.  wms  imporlMiil  IIk'v  should 
iiol  sec:  il  wms  ('S|)('('iMlly  ncccssMrv  lo  keep  Ihcm  out 
of  the   forc'CMsl^',  where  llic  dcMd   hody  ol"  poor   UmKct 


ncr- 


(Ml 


WMS    Ivini;':  mikI.   ms   it  wms   im   vmim    lo   rcMsoii   or 
suMilc,  we  liMcJ  Ml  hisl   lo  ('iiii)h)\   ihc  ''liciillc  iMviiiii- 
of  hMiids,"  wiiicli,   1    holicvc.  Ilic   Imws  ol'  mII   couiilrics 
IoUm'mIc.  lo  k('t>|)  lluMii  in  order. 

Our  wliolo  lorce  wms  iniislcrcd  mikI  kcpl  coiisImuIIv 
on  IhcMlcM'l;  bul,  llioiiuh  Ihcrc  niMV  Iimac  Imh'u  soinc- 
ihinp;  ol'  discourU'sv  in  llic  occMsiouMl  shonldcriniis  mikI 
linslliniis  Unit  oni'orcod  the  police  of  Ihc  sliij),  lliiiius 
woiil  on  i2;o()d-hinnoiiri'dly.  Onr  guests  continued 
runnini;'  in  Mnd  out  Mnd  Mhont  tlio  vessel,  ))ringin^  in 
itrovisions.  Mnd  carrviiii'"  them  out  M^.dii  to  their  d(.!.'s 
on  Ihi'  ice.  in  I'mcI,  sIcMliiiL';  m1!  the  lime,  iiiilil  llu' 
Ml'ternoon;  wlien,  like  tired  cliihh'en,  they  threw  lliciu- 
st'ht's  down  to  sle(>j).  1  ordered  them  lo  he  iiiiuk' 
comforlMhle  in  the  liold  ;  Miid  Morton  s|)reM(l  m,  hiriiv 
hiiflMlo-rohe  for  them,  not  iiir  troin  ;i  coal-lire  in  tlu' 
pillev-stove. 

They  were  lost  in  l)Mrharous  MmM'/<>  mI  the  new  hi'M, 
— too  liMrd  for  hlul)l)er.  too  sofi  for  lirestone; — hut  they 
wore  content  to  ])elieve  it  miji'lit  cook  ms  well  as  sc;ils'- 
fMt.     They   borrowed   from   ns  an   iron   pot   and   soinr 


;     (lu'V     S!l\V. 

('V('r>'  tlmii: 
Id  r«'str;iiii 
hid  \\v  wciv 
si,t;'ns  ot"  our 
lli(>v  slioiild 
>|)  ilicin  out 

I )(»()!'     l>;ik(l' 

isou  or  |H'r- 
l«'  l;ivini:-()ii 
ill   coimlrics 

1    coiislanlly 

'    IhH'U     SOIHC- 

hloriui^s  iiiid 
shij),  lliiii.ii^ 
s    coiitiiuu'd 
,  l)riii!;ini;'  in 
)   llu'ir  d(.:.';s 
',   imlil    \\w 
\\\v\\  tlu'lil- 
()    1)0    iiKulo 
cad   a,  lariiv 
Idiiv   ill  tlu' 

\\v  now  TiH, 
; — hid  dioy 
oil  as  soals'- 
)t   and   soino 


nicllcd    w 


ator 


T  i{  i:  A  I'  V    r  ()  i{  M  !■;  d. 


and    |)arl)oil<-d    a    (-miplo    of 


'im 


OICCOS     o 


wiilnis-moat  ;  l»id  tlio  I'oal  /n'rrr  ih  rr,sl.sfanrr,  .some  liv(( 
|M)Uii<is  a  iioad,  I  hoy  |ii'or<'i'i-o(|  lo  ojil  raw.  Vol,  I  here 
\v;is  soiiiothin.u' ol"  Iho //o///v//r/  in  Ihoir  niod(!  of  assort  in;^ 
dicir  iiioidid'ids  of  hod'  and  hhihhor.  Sli<'os  ol'  oacii, 
1)1-  I'adior  strips,  |»asso(i  hotwoon  the  lips,  oitlior  to- 
ncdior  or  in  strict  altoi'nation,  and  with  a.  roiiiiiarit y  ol" 
siMjiit'iico  that  ko|)t,  the  mohii's  well  to  their  work. 

Tliry  did  not  oat  all  at  onco,  hnt  each  man  wlion 
and  as  often  as  the  im[)nlso  [»i'()ni])ted.  Macdi  slept  after 
eatiii.ii',  his  raw  chunk  lying  hesido  him  on  the  hnffalo- 
skiii;  and,  as  ho  woke,  'he  (irst  act  was  to  eat,  and  llie 
next  to  sleep  a.gain.  They  did  not  lie  down,  hnt  sliim- 
Ih'HmI  away  in  si  sitting  posture,  with  the  head  do(dine(l 
upon  the  hroast,  soni(>  of  lliem  snoiiiig  famously. 

In  the  morning  thoy  wore  a,nxious  to  go;  hut  I  had 
i,nvon  orders  to  detain  tliom  for  a.  [){irting  inttirview 
widi  niysoll.  It  rosidtod  in  a  trojity,  hriof  in  its  tonus, 
that  it  might  bo  cortairdy  rt'momlKU'od,  and  mutually 
iKMioficial,  that  it  might  possibly  ho  k(ipt.  1  triod  to 
iiiako  thorn  understtind  wliat  a  powerful  Prosporo  th(^y 
had  had  for  a  host,  and  how  honofKtont  ho  would  provo 
hiiriself  so  long  as  thoy  did  his  bidding.  And,  as  an 
caniost  of  my  favor,  I  bought  all  tho  wjdrus-moat  thoy 
had  to  sparo,  and  four  of  their  dogs,  onriohing  thorn  in 
return  with  noodlos  and  boads  and  a  treasure  of  old 
cask-stavos. 

In  tho  fulness  of  their  gratitude,  they  pledged  them- 
selves emphatically  to  return  in  a  few  days  with  more 
meat,  and  to  allow  me  to  use  their  dogs  and  sledges  for 

Vol.,  I- 11 


1 

^ 

m 

rr 

1 

1 1 

1 

1  i 

■ 

1 

I  . 

li^ 


,1 


|i 


211) 


T  II  K      V  A  11  E  W  i:  L  L. 


my  excursions  to  the  north.  I  then  gave  tlieni  Iciuv 
to  go.  Tliey  yoked  in  their  dogs  in  less  than  twc 
minutes,  got  on  their  sh'dges,  cracked  their  two-fatlioiii- 
and-a-hall-kmg  seal-skin  whips,  and  were  off  down  the 
ce  to  tlie  southwest  .it  a  rate  of  seven  knots  an  hour. 


WILO      DOG      TEAM. 


They  did  not  return :  I  had  read  enough  of  treaty- 
makings  not  to  expect  them  too  confidently.  l>ut  the 
next  day  came  a  party  of  five,  on  foot ;  tAVo  old  nun. 
one  of  middle  age,  and  a  couple  of  gawky  boys.  AVc 
had  missed  a  number  of  articles  soon  after  the  fust 
party  left  us,  an  axe,  a  saw,  and  some  knives.  Wi' 
found  afterward  that  our  storehouse  at  Butler  Islaiiil 
had  been  entered:  we  were  too  short-handed  ti        "il 


3 

$ 


tide 

A 

to  oil 
louki 


e  tlu'iu  knivo 
■ss  than  twc 
r  tAVO-ftithoiii- 
oiV  down  the 
ots  an  hour. 


u 


■  J 


lough  of  treiity- 
ntly.  But  tlio 
two  old  null. 
wky  boys.  ^^^■ 
I  al'tor  the  lir>t 
no  knives.  A>^' 
it  Butler  Island 
landed  t)        "J 


T  II  !•:      .S  V.ii  V  K  L. 


•J  1 1 


it  Ky  a  spe 


cial  watch.      Besides  all  this,  roconnoitri 


nj 


stealthily  Ix  'ond   Sylviji  Head,  we  diseovered  a  train 


)1"  slediies  dr; 


awn 
There  was  cause 


p  behind  the  hunnnock 


vS. 


for 


•1 


ippreliension  ni  all  tins 


11  th 


Init  I 


lilt  that  I  could  not  aflbrd  to  break  with  the  rogues. 
They  had  it  in  their  power  to  molest  us  seriously  in 
our  sledge-travel;  they  could  nndvc  our  hunts  around 
the  harbor  dangerous;  and  my  best  chance  of  obtain- 
iwi  an  abundant  supply  of  fresh  meat,  our  great  desi- 
(ii'iatuui,  \vas  by  their  agency.  I  treated  the  new 
partv  with  marked  kindness,  and  gave  them  many 
|ueseuts;  but  took  care  to  make  them  aware  that,  until 
all  the  missing  articles  were  restored,  no  member  of 
the  tribe  would  be  admitted  again  as  a  guest  on  Ijoard 
the  hrig.  They  went  off  with  many  pantomimic  pro- 
testations of  innocence;  but  McGary,  nevertheless, 
caught  the  incorrigible  scamps  stealing  a  coal-barrel  as 
tluy  passed  Butler  Island,  and  expedited  their  journey 
lioiueAvard  by  firing  among  them  a  charge  of  small 
shot. 

Still,  one  peculiar  worthy — we  thought  it  must  have 
been  the  venerable  of  the  party,  wd.om  I  knew  after- 
ward as  a  stanch  friend,  old  Shang-lmh — managed  to 
work  round  in  a  westerly  direction,  and  to  cut  to  pieces 
my  India-rubber  boat,  which  had  been  left  on  the  floe 
since  Mr.  Brooks's  disaster,  and  to  carry  off  every  par- 
ticle of  the  wood. 

A  few  days  after  this,  an  agile,  elfin  youth  drove  up 
to  uur  Hoe  in  open  day.  He  was  sprightly  and  good- 
luuking,  and  had  quite  a  neat  turn-out  of  sledge  and 


« 


i|! 


'• 


*l 


,iit 


I  ;i  > 


I'-i 


! 


•4 


2['> 


M  VO  L'  K      I)  1:T  A  I  N  K  I). 


(loL's.  Ho  told  his  iiiime  with  fninknoss,  '"J/z/o^//. 
1  juu,"  —  and  where  \w  lived.  We  asked  him  iilxnu 
the  boat;  hut  he  denied  all  knowledge  of  it,  and  ic 
fused  either  to  eonless  or  re[)ent.  Tie  was  sMrpiixd 
when  I  ordered  him  to  he  eonfmed  to  the  hold.  Ai 
first  he  refused  to  eat,  and  sat  down  in   the  deepest 


^'-; 


I 


grief;  but  after  a  while  he  began  to  sing,  and  then  to 
talk  and  erv,  and  then  to  sing  again;  and  so  he  kept 
on  rehearsing  his  limited  '"^olfi'iff/io, — 


and  erying  and  talking  by  turns,  till  a  late  hour  of  tliu 


gt) 


:^(1  liiiu  !iIh)iii 
of  it,  Jiiul  IV- 
^viis  surprixil 
ho  hold.  At 
1   the  (lr('|M<t 


and  then  in 
nd  so  he  kept 


Lte  hour  of  the 


HIS      KSCAl'E. 


2l:i 


iiiuht.  When  I  turned  hi,  he  was  still  noisily  discon- 
tioliite. 

There  was  a  simplieity  and  honhommie  aljout  this 
lutv  that  interested  me  mueh ;  and  1  eonfess  that 
uhen  I  made  my  aj)pearanee  next  uiorniii^i!,' — 1  could 
iiardly  eonceal  it  I'rom  the  <i,entleuian  on  duty,  whom 
I  affected  to  ceusure — I  was  glad  my  bird  had  llown. 
Some  time  during  the  morniug-watch,  he  had  succeeded 
in  throwing  off  the  hatch  and  escaping.  We  sus- 
pected that  he  had  confederates  ashore,  for  his  dogs 
had  escaped  with  as  nmch  address  as  himself  I  was 
convinced,  however,  ^hat  I  had  the  .u''!  from  him, 
where  he  lived  and  how"  nniny  live^  Avth  him;  my 
ero.ss-examination  on  these  points  having  been  very 
couiplete  and  satisfactory. 

It  was  a  sad  business  for  some  \'  ae  afti  ;  these  Es- 
ipiimaux  left  us,  to  go  on  making  and  registering  our 
observations  at  Fern  Rock.  Bakers  corpse  still  lay  in 
the  vestibule,  and  it  was  not  long  before  another  was 
placed  by  the  side  of  it.  We  had  to  pass  the  bodies  as 
often  as  we  went  in  or  out;  but  the  men,  grown  feeble 
and  nervous,  disliked  going  near  them  in  the  night- 
time. When  the  sunnner  thaw  came  and  we  could 
gather  stones  enough,  we  built  up  a  grave  on  a  de- 
[)ression  of  the  rocks,  and  raised  a  substantial  cairn 
above  it. 

"April  19,  AVednesday. — I  have  been  out  on  the 
tloe  again,  breaking  in  my  dogs.  My  reinforcement 
from  the  Escpiimaux  makes  a  noble  team  for  me.  t\)r 
the  last  five  days  I  have  been  striving  with  them,  just 


f 

P 

r 

'I: 

hi 

■, 

V( 


I 

,   , 

1  '• 

i 

'  i 

.i,J 

! 

lUiil 

iLii 

•     !| 


(■N 


.1    • 


1       ' 


'J  14 


sen  i;  iJKUT  s    illn  ess. 


fis  t)lU'ii  uiul  as  lung  us  my  wtrengtli  allowed  niu ;  and 
to-day  1  have  my  victory.  The  Society  lor  Prcventiiin 
Cruelty  to  Aninnds  would  have  put  me  in  custody,  it 
they  had  been  near  enough;  but,  thanks  to  a  mereik'ss 
whip  freely  administered,  1  have  been  dashing  aloiii; 
twelve  miles  in  the  last  hour,  and  am  back  '"Auiu; 
harness,  sledge,  and  bones  all  unbroken.  I  am  ready 
lor  another  journey. 

"April  22,  Saturday. — Schubert  has  increasing  symp- 
toms of  erysipelas  around  his  amputated  stump;  and 
every  one  on  board  is  depressed  and  silent  except 
himself  lie  is  singing  in  his  bunk,  as  joyously  as 
ever,  'Aux  gens  atrabilaires,' &c.  Poor  fellow !  I  am 
alarmed  about  him :  it  is  a  hard  duty  which  coiiiiiids 
me  to  take  the  field  while  my  presence  might  cliuer 
his  last  moments." 


^ 


THE      KAPETAH,       OR      J  U  M  P  E  H. 


f      I 


CIIAPTKll   XVIIT. 

AN    EXl'I-OUATION Kljll  I'M  KM — (tlTI'l  r — KKI'AIITLUK ItKSl'Ms — 

i-i;ATLUES  OF  COAST  —  Al!»  II 1  li;»  Tl,  It  A  L  ItoCKS  —  TIIKKi;  IJKoTlli.ll 
TUIUIKTS  —  TENNYSON's)  MONUMENT  —  THE  GREAT  GLACIER  ol 
UUMUULm'. 

The  iiiontli  of  April  was  about  to  close,  ami  the 
short  .season  available  lor  Arctic  search  was  u[)()n  us. 
The  condition  oi'  things  on  board  the  brig  was  not 
such  as  1  could  have  wished  for ;  but  thei'e  was 
nothing  to  exact  my  presence,  and  it  seemed  to  me 
clear  that  the  time  had  come  for  pressing  on  the  wmk 
of  the  expedition.  The  arrangements  lor  our  renewed 
ex})loration  had  not  been  intermitted,  and  were  soon 
complete.     I  leave  to  my  journal  its  own  story. 

"April  20,  Tuesday-. — A  journey  on  the  carpet;  and 
the  crew  busy  with  the  little  details  of  their  outlit : 
the  officers  the  same. 

'•  I  have  made  a  log-line  for  sledge-travel,  with  a 
contrivance  for  fastening  it  to  the  ice  and  liberating  it 
at  pleasure.  It  will  give  me  my  dead  reckoning  (piite 
as  well  as  on  the  water.  I  have  a  team  now  of  seven 
dugs,  four  that  I  bought  of  the  Escpiimaux,  and  three 


1    !l, 

.i 

^i.^!  ( 

^.      'i,. 

1       .» 


'  \i 


.    I 


r% 


n 


irl 


II 


2u; 


AN      K  X  I'l.ti  U  A  T  1  ()  X. 


()!'  my  old  stock.  'IMicv  ^'o  to;i('tlit'r  »|iiit('  rcspcctiililv, 
(JodlVcN  iiiid  mvsi'll'  will  ;:(>  witli  tlioiu  oil  loot,  I'olluw- 
illy;  tlic  lirst  slcdjic  on  Tlmrsdiiy. 

"April  2(1,  \Vi'diu'sd;i\ . — McCJiiry  went  yostt'i'dav 
with  tlic  leading'  sledge;  and.  as  l>rooUs  is  still  on  hi- 
biu'k  in  c()nsc'([n('iK'i'  of  the  aini)ntation,  1  leave  Olilnii 
in  charge  ol'  the  brig,  lie  has  my  instructions  in  lull: 
among  them  1  have  dwelt  hirgely  upon  the  tieatineiit 
oi"  the  natives. 

"These  Es(piimaux  must  be  watched  careluUy.  at 
the  same  time  that  they  are  to  be  dealt  with  kindly, 
though  with  a  strict  eiilbrcement  of  our  police-regula- 
tions and  some  caution  as  to  the  freedom  with  which 
they  may  come  on  board.  No  punishments  must  he 
permitted,  either  of  them  or  in  their  presence,  and  no 
resort  to  fire-arms  unless  to  repel  a  serious  attack.  I 
have  given  orders,  however,  that  if  the  contingencv 
does  occur  there  shall  be  no  firing  over  head.  Tlic 
jprc^tlijc  of  the  gun  with  a  savage  is  in  his  notion  of 
its  infallibility.  You  may  spare  bloodshed  by  killluj: 
a  dog  or  even  wounding  him;  but  in  no  event  should 
you  throw  away  your  ])all.  It  is  neither  politic  nor 
humane. 

"  Our  stowage-precautions  are  all  arranged,  to  meet 
the  chance  of  the  ice  breaking  up  while  I  am  awa\ : 
and  a  boat  is  placed  ashore  with  stores,  as  the  bri^ 
may  bo  forced  from  her  moorings. 

"The  worst  thought  I  have  now  in  setting  out  is. 
that  of  the  entire  crew  I  can  leave  but  two  behind  in 
able  condition,  and  the  doctor  and  Bonsall  are  the  oiilv 


\}\ 


K  li  U  1  I'  M  i;  N  T. 


21" 


lVSl»C'('till»lv, 

loot,  loUuw- 

it    yostiM'diiy 
■<  !>itill  oil  lii-> 

ll'JlVC    (  )lll.M'll 

tioiis  ill  full : 

It'    tlVlltllU'llt 

faivliillv.  at 

ft/ 

with  i\iii(ll}. 
polico-ivgiila- 
1  witli  whii'li 
Jilts  must  Ih' 
^eiice,  and  no 
us  attack.  I 
coiitiiigi'iu'v 
head.  Tlic 
lis  notion  of 
d  bv  killiiiLi 
vent  should 
r  politic  nor 

m'ed,  to  meet 
1  ain  awa\ : 
as  the  l)ri,t: 

■tting  out  is. 
,'o  behiiivl  in 
are  the  only 


two  ollicers  who  can    hcdp  Ohlseii.      Tliis   is  our  lorci', 
toiir  al)le-ho(lie(l  and  six  disabled  to  Uc('|»   the  In'iu':   the 


iK 


d 


coinniaiKier  and  seven   men,  .searci 


ly 


better  upon 


th 


•  vera;:!',  out  u[)on  the  ice.     Kighteen  souls,  thank  (lod 


cei 


tainlv'  not  eigliteeii  liodies! 

■•1  am  going  this  time  to  lollow  the  ice-lielt  (Kis-lbdi 
to  tlio  (Ireat  (llaeioi'  of  lliiniboldt,  and  there  load  iip 
with  penimican  from  our  cache  of  last  October.  From 
this  point  1  expect  to  stret(di  along  the  face  of  the 
iilacicr  iiudining  to  \\n)  west  of  north,  and  make  an 
attt-mpt  to  cross  the  ice  to  the  American  side.  Once 
on  smooth  ice,  near  this  shore,  I  may  pass  to  the  west, 
and  eiit<'r  the  large  indentation  whose  existt'uce  I  can 
infer  with  nearly  positive  certainty.  In  this  1  may 
find  an  outlet,  and  determine  the  state  of  things 
hiyond  the  ice-clogged  area  of  this  bay. 

"I  take  with  me  pemmican  and  bread  and  tea,  a 
canvas  tent,  five  feet  by  six,  and  two  sleeping-bags  of 
roindeer-skin.  The  sledge  has  been  built  on  board  by 
Mr.  Olilsen.  It  is  very  light,  of  hickory,  and  but  nine 
feet  long.  Our  kitchen  is  a  soup-kettle  for  melting 
snow  and  making  tea,  arranged  so  as  to  boil  with 
cither  lard  or  spirits." 

The  pattern  of  the  tent  was  suggested  by  our  ex[)e- 
ricnce  during  the  fall  journeys.  The  greatest  discom- 
fort of  the  Arctic  traveller  when  camping  out  is  from 
the  congealed  moisture  of  the  breath  fcnnning  long 
f(  ithcrs  of  frost  against  the  low^  shelving  roof  of  the 
tent  within  a  few  inches  of  his  face.  The  remedy 
which  I  adopted  was   to  run  the   tent-poles    throu,.  !i 


I 


jl 


l:lh 


I     it' 


ikth 


:  i 


>'m 


2IS 


T  II  K    »M   r  r  1  T. 


LiTiinniU't-liolcs  in  llic  caiiN;!-  Jihoiil  ciiilitccii  iiiclits 
iil»()V('  tlu'  lloor.  ;intl  allow  \\\v  awv  pail  ol"  tlic  sides 
to  iiaiii^  down  vcrticallv  like  a  v..laiu'(',  lu't'orc  loiiiiinn 
the  lloor-clolli.  'I'iiis  arraiiiicnu'iit  liavc  ample  rn.nn 
for  hrcathiiii;-;   it   prcvcnlcd   tlic  ice  loruiini:-  above  ihc 


I  H  C      T  K  N  T. 


sU'i'pcr's  head,  and  tlic  iiicltcd  rime  from  Irickliiii: 
down  njion   it. 

'"For  instruments  I  have  a  line  Cianihev  sextant,  in 
a»ldition  to  m_v  oi'dinai'v  i»oeket-instnnnent,  an  ai'tilicial 
liorizon,  and  a  UaiTow's  dip-eii'el(\  These  occupv  little 
room  upon  the  sleduc  My  teles('o|)o  and  chrononiett'i' 
1  carry  on  my  pei'son. 

'•iMi'dary    has    taken    tlic   '  Faitli.'      Uv   eai-ries   feu 


'1      i   .^ 


T  II  i:    i>  i;  i'  \ 


2 1 0 


m 

1. 

in 

1  i! 

1  • 

li. 

\vvu  iiicli(-s 
(>r  tlu'  sitli's 
lore   luriniii:^ 

IllUplc     I'dlllll 

Wl  ;il)()\r  the 


stores,  iiitoiidini!;  to  ivpU'iiish  al  I  lie  caclic  of  Hoiisall 
Point,  and  to  lay  in  lu'imuican  at  Mc(!ar\  Islaiul. 
Mo>t  of  his  carp)  :  iisists  of  Iticad.  wliicli  we  fiiul  it 
hard  to  (lis|)('nso  with  in  calioLi'  cooked  food.  It  has  a 
1  cllect  in  al)M>rl)ini:  the  fat  of  the  |)einmican.  which 


<U  »( It 


IS  ap 


t   to  d 


isai:i'ee  with  the  stomach, 


Oni    tnckliii'. 


V  sextant,  in 


an  ai 


■tiliciiil 


()ccu|ty  liinc 
chronometer 


carries   tew 


T  H  I      r   A  I  T  II. 


(iodi 


re\   and    iiuse 


lo 


lowed 


on    the  '2i  til,  as 


1  had 


intriidod.      'I'iie  ioiirnex   was  an  arduous  one  to  he  nn- 
ilertaken,  e\(Mi  under  the  most    liivoi'iim'  I'irciimstances 


aiitl   i>\    nil 


hrol 


<en    men. 


It 


was   to   he    tli 


e    crowniiiii' 


e\|)e(lition  of  the  eampaij;n.  to  attain  the  I'llima 
Thiile  of  the  (Jreenland  shore,  measure  the  waste  that 
la\  lietween  it  and  tlu'  unknown  West,  and  seek  rdUiid 


\m 


fl 

W! nf^^ 

1  ■ 

i  .ia 

Im,     'i            '                 ' 

'u 

I    ■ 

''ill 

ji*r 

1  fm 

1  i 

■  1 1 

1 

I  '.^ 

s  r- 


1 


•  )•>( 


(i  K  N  !•;  K  A  1.    i{  I-:  s  r  l  t 


till'  Ihrtliest  c'iri'lo  of  tlio  ice  lor  an  outlet   to  the  i 
tei'ioiis  ehiiimels  beyond.      The  seheme  eould    not 


nvs- 


i)e 


earned  out  m  its  details,  let  it  was  [jvoseeiited  Hir 
onongh  to  indicate  what  must  he  our  future  lields  dl' 
hd)our.  and  to  determine  many  points  of  geographi 'al 
interest.  Our  ol)servations  were  in  general  eonfirina- 
tory  of  those  Avhieh  had  heen  made  hy  Mr.  lionsall: 
and  they  accorded  so  well  with  our  suhseipient  sm\(\s 
as  to  trace  ibr  ns  the  outline  of  the  coast  with  great 
certainty. 

If  th{>  reader  has  had  the  patience  to  fbllow  the 
pathway  of  our  little  brig,  he  has  perceived  that  at 
Iiefuge  Ilar))or.  our  fust  asylum,  a  marked  change 
takes  place  in  the  line  of  direction  of  the  coast. 
From  Cape  Alexander,  which  may  be  regarded  as  llu^ 
westernmost  ca[K'  of  (Ireenland,  the  shore  runs  nearly 
north  and  south,  like  the  broad  channel  of  which  it  is 
th(>  boundary;  but  (m  reaching  Ixefuge  Iidet  it  l)eii(ls 
nearly  at  a  right  anL!'^  ,  and  follows  on  from  west  to 
east  till  it  has  })as,-ed  the  both  degree  of  longitiulo. 
l^etween  Tape  Alexander  and  the  inlet  it  is  broken 
by  two  indentations,  the  first  of  them  near  the  Ktali 
settlement,  which  was  visited  in  IS."):",  l)y  j^be  Kesciic 
Ex[)edition  undiM'  [iieutenant  llartstene,  and  which 
bears  on  my  charts  the  name  of  that  noble-spirited 
commander;  the  other  remembered  by  us  as  Lifebuat 
Cove.  In  both  of  these  the  glaciers  (U'scend  to  the 
water-line,  from  an  interior  of  lol'ty  rock-clad  hills. '^'"^ 
My  sk<'tclies  give  but  a  rude  iilea  of  their  picturesque 
subli;nit\'. 


¥..& 


I  ' 


V  i:  A  T  r  i;  k  s    of    (  o  a  s  t 


')•>[ 


()  the  invs- 
uld  not  be 
)SLH'Ute(l  far 
ii\'  I'u'lds  {){' 
ije'Ojiraphi 'al 
111  ('onfiniin- 
ylr.  lM)Usall; 
UMit  surveys 
t  with  givat 

)   follow   till' 
ivod  that  at 
■kod    chaiiui' 
f  the    coast, 
irdod  as  the 
I  runs  nearly 
which  it  is 
ot  it  hciuls 
oni   west  to 
lon^u'itiulc. 
t  is  hrokcu 
r  the  Ktali 
ihe   Ih'sciic 
and    which 
)]>lc  spirited 
as  Lilcl)o;it 
•end   to   tlic 
clad  hills;^^^ 
picturcs(iuc 


'I'hc  (oast-linc  is  divcrsilicd,  however,  hy  numerous 
water-worn  headhinds,''""  Avhich  on  reaching'  Cape 
jlatlierton  decline  into  roUinii'  hills,''"'  their  margins 
>tii(l(Ied  witii  islands,  which  arc  the  hworite  hi'eedini:- 
laces   of  the  eider,   the    ^ulancous    <j;nU.  and   the   leni. 


I 


*««*■■<--« 


ETAH,      AND      MY      BROTHS  H      JOHN'S      GLACIER. 


Cape  llatherton  rises  l)oldly  above  these,  a  mass  of 
por[)hyritic  rock. '■''*■ 

Aftci  leaving'  lu'l'uue  llarhor,  the  features  of  tlie 
loast  underi^'o  a  change.  Tiiere  are  no  di'cp  hays  ov 
tlischurginji'  ghiciers;  and  it  is  only  as  we  aj)jtroach 
iicnsselaer  llarhor.  where  the  shore-line  In-iiins  to 
iiuTnie  once  nior(  to  the  north,  that  the  deep  recesses 
ami  icedined  (lords  make  their  ji})pearaiice  again. 

The    iii'olouical    structure    cham-es    also,'^'*'   and    the 


i'r 


11 


H 


;i 


ii 


■ti 


m  I 


')•)') 


A  HC  HIT  KCT  I  \l  \  i,      Kti  C  K  S. 


t'lill's  bouin  to  assimii'  a  .•^rrics  (.'"  vi'i'ici'  .md  pictur('s(|ur 
outlines  aloiiii'  the  coast,  that  scaivch  i-MiuiiV  the  aid  of 
inia<:iiiatioii  to  trace  in  tlieni  the  vuins  .'>f  nrcliiteetin'al 
structure.  They  come  down  hohlly  to  the  shore-line. 
their  summits  rising  sometimes  more  than  a  thousand 
feet  above  the  eye,  and  the  long  cones  of  rubbish  •{{ 
their  base  miniilini::  themselves  with  the  ice-l'oot.'^"' 

The  coast  retains  the  same  character  as  I'ar  as  tlic 
Great  Glacier.  It  is  indented  bv  ibur  ureat  bays,  all 
of  them  communicating  with  deep  gorges,  which  aiv 
watered  bv  streams  from  the  interior  ice-lields;  \v[ 
ncjue  of  them  exhibit  glaciers  of  any  magnitude  at  the 
water-line.  Dallas  Bay  shows  a  similar  Ibrmation.  and 
the  archipehigo  beyond  Cape  Hunter  retains  it  almost 
without  change.^^^^ 

The  mean  height  of  the  table-land  till  it  reaches 
the  bed  of  the  Great  Glacier  may  be  stated  in  louiid 
ninnbers  at  nine  hundred  feet,  its  tallest  summit  near 
the  water  at  thirteen  humhed,  und  the  rise  of  the 
background  above  the  general  level  at  six  hundred 
more.^^"'  Tli'.-  '';^r>e  of  this  stupendous  ice-nuiss,  as  it 
defined  the  y^wA,  was  everywhere  an  abrupt  and 
threatening  precipic(.',  only  broken  by  clefts  jind  deep 
ravines,  giving  breadth  and  interest  to  its  wild  ex- 
pression. 

The  most  picturesque  portion  of  the  North  Green- 
land coast  is  to  be  Ibund  after  leaving  (Jape  George  Hns- 
sell  and  approaching  Dallas  Bay.  The  red  sandstones 
contrast  most  favorably  with  the  blank  whiteness,  asso- 
dating  the  cold  tints  of  the  dreary  An  tic  landscape 


ii   >i  • 


L  ii 


t'  'n 


i('tun's(|U( 
the  iiid  of 
'liitcctiiral 
shoiv-liiu'. 
I  tlioiisaud 
ruhltisli  at 
loot.''"' 
I'ar  as  the 
it  buys,  all 
whicli  aiv 
-Ik-lds;    yet 
tmlo  at  the 
iKitioii,  and 
IS  it  almost 

1  it  reaches 
d  ill  Yo\\m\ 
limit  near 
•ise  ol"  the 
IX  liundred 
mass,  as  it 
il)nipt  and 
and  deep 
ts  ^vild  ex- 

)rtli  Green- 
George  Kns- 
samls  tones 
teiiess.  asso- 
c  laiidseape 


J 


T  II  V.  K  i;      h  I!  OT  II  i;  K      T  I'  K  U  KTS. 


223 


wilh  the  warm  eoloiduLi'  of  niore  soutlKiai  lands.  TIk 
seasons  have  acted  on  the  ilillerent  layers  of  the  (dilV 
so  as  to  fiive  tlieiu  the  a[)[»earanee  of  jointed  masonry, 
and  the  narrow  line  of  jireenstoiie  at  the  top  caps 
theiii  with  well-simulated  battlements. 


H  >  i>      1  o  ^  :<  E  T  s. 


One  of  these  interestin-i'  freaks  of  nature  became 
known  to  us  as  the  "Three  Brother  Turrets." 

The  slopin<>'  rubl)ish  at  the  I'oot  of  the  eoast-wall  led 
up.  like  an  artificial  causeway,  to  a  u'oru'c  that  was 
stn'aininu'  at  noonday  with  the  southern  sun;  while 
evi  rywhere  else  the  rock  stood  out  in  the  blackest 
shadow.     Just  at  the  eds^'e  of  this  briidit  oiuMiinii  rose 


m 


n 


1  ■! 
I- 

;|!      .      ' 

I  ii  '    1        ! 


il.' 
i.  i    ' 

ji.li 

1  h, 

j    , 

1 


n 


I 


'i, 


>;  i     ^•■ 


■A 


i*** 


'JL'  I 


r  I ;  N  \  ^  son 


M  <•  \  IM  i:  N  T 


lli«'  (lit'MtiiN    .srinlilMncc  ol"  :i  cMsllr.  IliiiiUcd  willi    I 


n|ilc 


lowers,  coinnlch'lv    isol.'ilcd    ,-in(l   (IdiiMMl.      TIm-sc   wcy^ 
llic  "'IMncc    l'ndlli(M'  'riin<'ls." 


I    WMs  slill    more    ^;h•||»•U    willi    .iiiollicr  ol"    lli 


<•   s;iiii 


sort,  in  llir  iiiiiii<>(ii;ilt>  iicivliliorliood  ol'  iii\  Icillinn 
uroiiiui  Im'noihI  SmniN  (Jori;*'.  lo  llic  iiorlli  o'"  liiliiml,' 
7l>'\  A  sinL!,I('  riilV  ol'  ^rcrnsloiK*.  innrUcd  I>\  llir  shtv 
liiiu'sloiic  ticil  oiH'c  ciM'Mscd  il.  rc.'irs  ilscll'  I'luin  ;i 
nnillMcil  l>;is(<  of  SMlldsloiM's.  like  llic  hojdh  clii  dlnl 
i";mi|t;irl  oI'mm  iniriciil  rilv.  ,\l  ils  iiorllirni  cxhvinilv. 
oil  llic  luink  ol'  ;i  d(M>|)  r;i\iin'  wliicli  Jims  worn  ils  \\;\\ 
aiiioii!;  llio  niins.  llicrc  shinds  ;i  solil;ir\  coliimii  or 
luiiiirrl-lowcr.  ms  sli;ir|>l\  linislicd  ;is  il'  il  Ii:id  linn 
ciisl  for  lli(>  IMmcc  \ Cndonu'.  \  rl  llic  lcn!.',lli  iA'  \\\r 
slial'l  alone  is  four  liiindrcd  and  ciulil\  I'ccl  ;  and  ii 
rises  ^^\\  a  |iliiilli  or  ))edcslai  ilscll'  Iwo  linndi'cd  .iiid 
ciulilN    feci    lii^li. 

I  rtMiicinluM-  widl  11h>  «Mnolioiis  oi'  u\\  |>arh  as  it 
lirst  broke  upon  our  \iew.  Cold  and  sick  as  I  was.  I 
Itroiiiilil  lia;'k  a  skcUdi  of  il.  wiiicli  n»a\  iiaxc  inlcic^i 
lor  tlu>  i\'a«ii  ;•.  ihoimh  il  st-arcclv  sii^^csls  llic  ini|ioiim 
diu'iiiiv  ol'  liiis  niauniliccnt  landmark.  Tlio-^  •  who  arc 
liappilv  lainiliar  willi  llic  writings  of  'I'cninsoii.  aini 
lia\e  eoMimnned  willi  his  spiril  in  llic  soliiiidcs  cl' ;i 
wilderness,  will  an|»rehend  llie  iin[inlsc  thai  inscrilu'd 
t Iu>  sciMU'  with  his  name. 

Still  hevond  this,  conu  s  llit>  arelii|>(dai:(>  which  hears 
the  name  oi'  our  \)V\\x.  sliuldcd  willi  the  names  ol'  tliesf 
on  hoard  ol'  Ikm'  who  adIuM'ed  to  all  the  rortiines  ol'  ilif 
expcdiiuMi:    and   at    its   eastern    cajU'    spreads   out    tlio 


I  willi    Irlplr 
Tlirsc    \vi  IV 


\\ 


[> 


(tl"    llir   sniiic 
ni\     liiilliii'' 
li   u*'  l;ililM(|<' 
I   l>v   llir  sl;il\ 
ilscir     iVolll    ;| 

.l.llx  rhi  rll,.,l 

\\\  (>\lrciinlv. 
worn  its  \\;iv 

r\  colnmii  oi' 
il    liail    lit'i'ii 

Icnjilli  ol  ilii' 
Ircl  ;  :iii(l  :1 
liniidrcd   aiul 

V    jiarlv   MS  it 

ck  as  1  was.  1 

lia\<'   ititciTsl 

;  till'  im|i<i  inu 

riio--  •  who  aiv 

cinixsou.  aiul 

■  oliliitlcs  ol  ;i 

hliat    inscrilu'il 


I       !' 


•if     t 


o  w  jiicli  iH'ai> 

allies  ot    tho-i 

U't  iiiu's  i>l   tilt 

In'atls   (Hit    till 


1 


TT 


Iti 


! 


,'i  I 


I 


f  m 


'\i    ^*i[b 


u 


I .  I 


ll 


t;, 

■  1 
I  ■ 


1 


I         . 


M 


,!       : 


I 
ill 


II 


m 


' 

i 


^!i! 

uyi 


N 


i  .       >■ 


.       .  A 


,1 


.,  ■>  I 


■^!    1 


Til  K      0  V,  K  A  T      C  I,  A  ('  I  V.  U. 


2'2o 


Great  Glnricr  of  IliiinljoMt.     My  n-colloctions  v)f  this 


rhu'lcr   iiiv   very  distiiu't. 


Tl 


ic    (liiv  was    hciui 


Hi  fully 


clear  on 


which  1  first  saw  it;  and  1  have  a  iiumhcr  of 


sketches  made  as  we  drove  aloii^;'  in  view  of  its  iiia^i- 
nilieeiit  face.  They  disappoint  nic,  jziviiiii'  too  niiieh 
white  surface  and  badly-fading  distances,  the  gran- 
(Ictn- of  the  few  bold  and  simple  lines  of  nature  being 


idmost  entirely  lost. 

I  will  not  attempt  to  do  better  by  llorid  desciMption, 
Men  only  rhapsodize  about  Niagai'a  and  the  ocean. 
My  notes  s^K-ak  simply  of  the  "long  ever-shining  hue 
of  cliir  iliminished  to  a  well-pointi'd  wedge  m  the  i)c;- 
.s[)ective;"  and  again,  of  "the  face  of  glistening  ice, 
sweeping  in  a  long  curv^o  from  the  k)w  interior,  the 
facets  in  front  intensely  illuminated  by  the  sun." 
But  this  line  of  elifl'  rose  in  solid  glassy  wall  three 
hundred  feet  above  the  water-level,  with  an  unknown 
unfathomable  depth  below  it;  and  its  curved  face, 
sixty  miles  in  length  from  Cape  Agassiz  to  Cape 
Forbes,  vanished  into  nnknowai  space  at  not  more 
than  a  single  day's  railroad-travel  from  the  Pole. 
The  interior  with  which  it  communicated,  and  from 
which  it  issued,  was  an  unsurveyed  mer  de  ylace,  an 
ice-ocean,  to  the  eye  of  boundless  dimensions.-'*''' 

It  was  in  full  sight  —  the  mighty  crystal  bridge 
which  connects  thr"  tw^o  continents  of  America  and 
Greenland.  I  say  continents  ;  for  Greenland,  however 
insulated  it  may  ultimately  provo  to  be.  is  in  mass 
j^trictly  continental.  Its  least  possible  axis,  measured 
fruin  Cape  Farewell  to  the  line  of  this  glacier,  in  the 

VuL.  I.  — 1.-) 


i'l 


ir 


^: 


*> 


A^ 


^J^^% 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


Hi  m  III  2.2 


1.8 


1.4    11.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


y 


/ 


i? 


// 


^j 


iV 


^V 


k 


M^ 


V 


*% 


V 


6^ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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"»rii 

1 

!       . 

.:i.  -■   1 

; 

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1 

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■1 

Jiiil 

nil 

1 

1  lii 

1 


i  • 


I  1 


220 


THE     G  K  E  A  T      G  L  A  C I E  K 


neighborhood  of  the  (SOth  parallel,  gives  a  length  of 
more  than  tweh^e  hundred  miles,  not  materially  less 
than  that  oi' Australia  from  its  northern  to  its  soullicm 
ciipe/'''*' 


G  R  t   A  T       Ci  L  A  '"  I  I   R. 


Inuigine,  now,  the  centre  of  such  a  continent,  occu- 
pied through  nearly  its  whole  extent  b}^  a  deep  un- 
broken sea  of  ice,  that  gathers  perennial  increase  from 
the  water-shed  of  vast  snow-covered  mountains  and  ;ill 
the  precipitations  of  the  atmosphere  upon  its  own  sur- 
ftice.  Imagine  this,  moving  onward  like  a  great  glaciiil 
river,  seeking  outlets  at  every  fiord  and  valley,  rolling 


L.    i 


I      '   I 


0  V     II  r  M  r.  ()  L  DT. 


097 


lev  cataracts  into  the  Atlantic  and  (Irocnland  soas; 
;ui(i.  liaving  at  last  reached  the  northern  limit  of  the 
liind  that  has  bcn'ne  it  up,  pouring  out  a  mighty  frozen 
torrent  into  unknown  Arctic  space/**^ 

It  is  thus,  and  only  thus,  that  we  must  form  a  just 
conception  of  a  phenomenon  like  this  (Ireat  Glacier. 
I  had  looked  in  my  own  mind  for  such  an  appearance. 


.jtft. 


■m 


ia ,  ■  v,&ie*%fi^^*"j-v 


ill 
■  I  i 


1 1 


i  'V 


i'l 


. ,  ,, 


1 1 


■■  /■!;' 


1 


|v.!  I 


.f 


GLACIER       PROTRUDING      AT      CACHE       ISLAND. 

should  T  ever  be  fortunate  enough  to  reach  the  north- 
ern coast  of  Greenland.  But  now  that  it  was  before 
Hie,  I  could  hardly  realize  it.  I  had  recognised,  In  my 
quiet  library  at  home,  the  beautiful  analogies  which 
Forbes  and  Studer  have  developed  between  the  glacier 
and  the  river.  But  I  could  not  comprehend  at  first 
this  complete  substitution  of  ice  for  water. 
It  was  slowly  that  the  conviction  dawned  on  me, 


( 

i 

1 

1 

•  d  M  !'  ' 


til 


\% 


Hi 


'  I'i 


!>      ■'-- 


I 


I        ! 


I,      • 


II      , 


i 


228 


T  ]1  E     G  K  K  A  T     G  L  A  C  1  i:  li. 


tliiit  I  was  looking  upon  the  ('oiuit(M'])iirt  of  tlu'  livcnt 
ri\c'r-s_)\stoni  of  Arctic.  Asia  and  Anici'ica.  Yet  Ww 
were  no  water-feeders  from  the  south.  Every  pMiiicle 
oi"  moisture  had  its  origin  within  the  Polar  circle,  ami 
had  been  converted  into  ice.  There  were  no  vast  allu- 
vions, no  forest  or  animal  traces  borne  down  by  li(|iii(l 
torrents.  Here  Avas  a  plastic,  moving,  senn-solid  mass. 
obliterating  life,  swallowing  rocks  and  islands,  ami 
plouL-hing  its  wav  with  irresistible  march  through  ihr 
crust  of  an  investing  sea. 


m 


:  of  tlu'  «iT(';it 
'ii.  Yet  liciv 
b^very  piirticlc 
liir  circle,  and 
.^  no  vast  allii- 
owii  l)y  litiuiil 
lui-sorul  mass, 
isluiuls,  ami 
1  tlirouiiii  the 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

I'lKKaiESS  OF  THE  PARTY — niOSTKATION — DATJ-AS  IJAY — DEATH 
OF  «CHL'BERT  —  THE  BRIG  IN  MAY  —  PROGRESS  OF  SPRING  — 
MUAUY's     RETURN DR.    UAYES's     PARTY  —  EQUIPMENT  —  SCHU- 

bkkt's  funeral. 

'•  It  is  now  the  20tli  of  May,  and  lor  the  first  time  I 
am  al)le,  propped  up  b}'  pillows  and  surrounded  by  sick 
messmates,  to  note  the  fact  that  we  have  failed  again 
tu  force  the  passage  to  the  north. 

'•Godfrey  and  myself  overtook  the  advance  party 
imder  McGary  two  days  after  leaving  the  brig.  Our 
dogs  were  in  fair  travelling  condition,  and,  except 
siio",'-1jlindness,  there  seemed  to  be  no  drawback  to 
our  efTieiency.  In  crossing  Marshall  Bay,  we  found 
the  sno>^^  so  accumulated  in  drifts,  that,  with  all  our 
eilbrts  to  pick  out  a  track,  we  became  invob-ed :  we 
could  not  force  our  sledges  through.  We  were  forced 
to  unload  and  carry  forward  the  cargo  on  our  backs, 
beating  a  path  ibr  the  dogs  to  follow  in.  In  this  way 
we  plodded  on  to  the  opposite  headland,  Cape  Wil- 
liam Wood,  where  the  waters  of  Mary  Minturn  River, 
which  had  delayed  the  ireezing  of  the  ice,  gave  us  a 


^i 


I 
! 

t 
ii 

n 


!!'.!■ 


$^ 


:t 


t!' 


m 


Vi 


if  i:; 


'  f ' 


II.    51! 


■!  i 


A.  Ml 


1 


m 


• ; » ■    ? 


•1^  ! 


2:]() 


r  K  ( )  (J  H  K  S  S      OF      Til  !•;      !•  A  li  T  Y 


long   reach   of  level   travel.     We  then   made  a  bett 


IT 


■y  u< 


rate ;   and  our  davs  niarehes  were  such  as  to  carr 
by  the  4tli  of  May  nearly  to  the  glacier. 

''  This  progress,  however,  was  dearly  earned.  As 
early  as  the  od  of  ]May,  the  winter's  scurvy  reMp- 
peared  i)ainfully  among  our  party.  As  we  struggled 
through  the  snow  along  the  Greenland  coast  we  sank 
up  to  our  middle,  and  the  dogs,  floundering  jibout,  were 
so  buried  as  to  preclude  any  attempts  at  hauling.  This 
excessive  snow-deposit  seemed  to  be  due  to  the  piv- 
eipitation  of  cold  condensing  wind  suddenly'  wafted 
from  the  neighboring  glacier;  for  at  Rensselaer  Har- 
bor w^e  had  only  four  incdies  of  general  snow  depth. 
It  obliged  us  to  luiload  our  sledges  again,  and  carr\ 
their  cargo,  a  labor  whicli  resulted  in  dropsical  swell- 
ings with  painful  prostration.  Here  three  of  the  partv 
were  taken  with  snow-blindness,  and  George  Stephen- 
son had  to  be  condemned  as  unfit  for  travel  altogether, 
on  account  of  chest-symptoms  accompanying  his  scor- 
butic troubles.  On  the  4th,  Thomas  liickey  also  srave 
in,  although  not  quite  disabled  for  labor  at  the  track- 
lines. 

"  Perhaps  we  would  still  have  got  on ;  but,  to  crown 
a.ll,  we  found  that  the  bears  had  effected  an  entrance 
into  our  pemmican-casks,  and  destroyed  our  chances  of 
reinforcing  our  provisions  at  the  several  caches.  This 
great  calamity  w^is  certainly  inevitable ;  for  it  is  simple 
justice  to  the  officers  under  whose  charge  the  provision- 
depots  were  constructed,  to  say  that  no  means  in  their 
power  could  have  prevented  the  result.    The  pemniiean 


T  Y. 

made  a  bettor 
as  to  carry  u< 

;  earned.  As 
scurvy  reitp- 
i  Ave  strugLi'led 
coast  we  sank 
ng  about,  wvw 
lauliug.  This 
lie  to  the  pre- 
ddeuly  wafted 
enssebier  Uar- 
1  snow  dei)tli. 
ain,  and  earn 
iropsical  swell- 
ee  of  the  party 
eorge  Stepheu- 
ivel  altogether, 
lying  his  seor- 
ckey  aLso  uave 
>r  at  the  track- 

;  but,  to  crown 
}d  an  entrance 
our  chances  of 
caches.     This 
for  it  is  simple 
e  the  provision- 
means  in  their 
The  pemniican 


PHOST  K  AT  1  ON. 


231 


was  covered  with  blocks  of  stone  which  it  had  recpiired 
the  hil)(»r  of  three  men  to  adjust;  but  the  exti'aordi- 
iiarv  streugtli  of  the  Ix'ar  had  enabled  liini  to  force 
;isi(k'  the  heaviest  rocks,  and  his  p,a\ving  had  broken 
the  iron  casks  which  hidd  our  penimican  literally  into 
(•lii[)s.  Our  alcohol-cask,  which  it  had  cost  me  a  se[)ii- 
rate  and  special  journey  in  the  latc>  lall  to  de})osit,  was 
so  completely  destroyed  that  we  could  not  lind  a  stave 
of  it. 


'i-\ 


A.:}.,4,^m.^t^i!^^^ 


xs^- 


A  1'  p  t.  0  A  C   H  I  S  (.".      0  A  L    L  i  s      I    A    Y  . 


"Off  Cape  James  Kent,  about  eight  miles  from  •  Sunny 
Gorge,'  while  taking  an  observation  for  latitude,  I  was 
myself  seized  with  a  sudden  pain  and  fainted.  My 
limbs  became  rigid,  and  certain  obscure  tetanoid  symj)- 
toms  of  our  late  winter's  enemy  disclosed  themselves. 
In  this  condition  I  was  unable  to  make  more  than  nine 
miles  a  day.  I  w^as  strapped  upon  the  sledge,  and  the 
march  continued  as  usual;  but  my  powers  diminished 
so  rapid W  that  I  could  not  resist  even  the  otherwise 
comfortable  temperature  of  5°  below^  zero.  My  left  foot 
becoming  frozen  up  to  the  metatarsal  joint;  caused  a 


\M 


HI 


Hi 


iti 


1 


)  ! 


;  t 


Im 


in 


if  liiii 


'\: 


•1^ 


•■u. 


m 


l:v.| 


f  [  ^ 


m 


iJm 


n  r;-ii 


It   i- 


I 


"ll  il 


^o^ 


D  A  1.  I.  A  S      II  A  V 


vexiitiou.s  dc'liiy;  and  the  t^aiiu'  iiiglit  it  bccuiiic  evidciii 
that  the  iiimioN'ahility  oi"  iii}'  hiub.s  was  due  tu  di'on. 
sical  efliision. 


a 


On  the  ")th,  beconiinii'  delirious,  and  i'aint 


inj--  evcrv 


time  that  I  Avas  taken  iVom  the  tent  to  the  sledi^c.  I 
yuccund)ed  entirely.  I  a[)[)end  the  report  of  our  sur- 
geon nijide  upon  my  return.  This  will  lx*st  exhibit  the 
diseased  condition  of  m}selt' and  party,  and  ex[)laiii.  in 
stronger  terms  than  I  can  allow  niysell'  to  use,  tin 
extent  of  my  efforts  to  contend  iigainst  it."^^°' 

"My  comrades  would  kindly  persuade  me  tliat.  even 
had  [  continued  sound,  we  could  not  luive  proceeded 
on  our  journey.  The  snows  were  very  lieavy,  and 
increasing  as  we  went;  some  of  the  drifts  perlectlv 
impassable,  and  the  level  Hoes  often  four  feet  deep  in 
yielding  snow.  The  scurv}'  had  already  broken  out 
among  the  men,  Avitli  symptoms  like  my  own;  and 
Morton,  our  strongest  man,  was  beginning  to  giw  way. 
It  is  the  reverse  of  comfort  to  me  that  they  shared  my 
weakness.  All  that  I  sliould  remember  with  pleasii- 
ral)le  feeling  is,  that  to  five  Ijrave  men,  Morhju,  Riley. 
Ilickey,  Stephenson,  and  Hans,  themselves  s(.'arcc]y 
able  to  travel,  I  ow^e  my  preservation.  They  carried 
me  Ijack  by  forced  marches,  after  cacheing  our  stores 
and  India-ruijoer  boat  near  Dallas  Bay,  in  lat.  71J°."». 
Ion.  GG°. 

"I  w^as  taken  into  the  brig  on  the  14th.  Since  tlion. 
fluctuating  between  life  and  death,  I  have  by  the  bless- 
ing of  God  reached  the  present  date,  and  see  feebly 
in  prospect  my  recovery.     Dr.  Hayes  regards  my  attack 


-s 


i 


Hi 

e 

h( 

tlJ 


ciunc  L'vitlcnl 
due  to  tlr(j|)- 

liuting  t'vcrv 
the  ^^ledizc.  1 
•t  ol'  our  siii- 
st  exhibit  the 
[id  exphiin.  in 

t'   to   U!^e,  till' 

(4o;> 

me  tliat.  even 
ave  procee(k'(l 
y   heiivy,   1111(1 
[rifts   perfectly 
ir  feet  deep  in 
ly   broken  out 
my  own;  inul 
iLi'  to  ffive  ^vav, 
hey  shared  my 
r  ^vith  pleasu- 
Mort(jn,  Hiliy. 
selves   scarcely 
They  carried 
cing  our  stores 
r,  in  hit.  T<J°.-). 

1.      Since  then. 

I\rc  1)V  the  bless- 

and   see  feebly 

••{irds  mv  attack 


DE  A  T  II      OF      >  (•  II  r  i;  i:  U  T. 


iis  one  of  scurvy,  complicated  by  typhoid  fever,  (leorgo 
Stel'lienson  is  similarly  alfected.  Our  worst  syin[)tonis 
are  (lr()[)sical  elfusion  and  niiiht'-sw'eats. 

"Ma\'  'I'l.  Monday. —  Lt'i  me,  if  1  can,  make  u[<  my 
record  l()r  the  time  I  liave  been  away  or  on  my  back. 

''Poor  Schubert  is  gone.  Our  gal  laid  merry-hearted 
coni[)anion  left  us  some  ten  days  ago,  for,  I  trust,  a 
more  genial  world.  It  is  sad,  in  this  dreary  little 
homestead  of  ours,  io  miss  his  contented  face  and  the 
joxoiis  troll  of  his  ballads. 

••The  health  of  the  rest  has,  if  any  thing,  improved. 
Their  comjdexions  show  the  inlluenee  of  sunlight,  and 
1  thiid\  several  Inive  .a  firmer  and  more  elastic  step. 
Stei)lienson  and  Thomas  are  the  only  two  beside  my- 
self wIk)  are  likely  to  sulfer  permanently  from  the 
ellccts  of  our  break-down.  Bad  scurvy  both:  symptoms 
still  serious. 

••  I'cfore  setting  out  a,  month  ago,  on  a  journey  that 
should  have  extended  into  the  middle  of  June,  I  had 
broken  up  the  establishment  of  IJutler  Island,  and 
placed  all  the  stores  around  the  Ijrig  upon  the  heavy 
ice.  My  object  in  this  was  a  (h)uble  one.  First,  to  re- 
move from  the  Esrpdmaux  the  temptation  and  ability 
to  pilfer.  Sec(jnd,  to  deposit  our  cargo  where  it  could 
be  re-stowed  1)y  very  few  men,  if  any  unforeseen  (diange 
ill  the  ice  made  it  necessary.  Mr.  Ohlsen,  to  whose 
charge  the  brig  w^as  committed,  had  orders  to  stow  the 
hold  slowly,  remove  the  forw^^.J  housing,  and  fit  up 
the  foiecastle  for  the  men  to  inhabit  it  again. 

"All  of  these  he    carried   out  with   judgment    and 


!-i 


iM 


il^ 


A\ 


mm 


■?'  1. 

■^  1 

Ifr 

1  ;f.k 

■■;:i'i: 

l\\ 


ll 


riS 


f 


234 


T  UK      It  i;  m;      1  N      M  A  V 


energy.  I  find  upon  niy  ivtnni  the  l»rig  so  stowed  tiiid 
refitted  that  lour  days  would  prepai'e  us  for  sea.  'I'h,. 
quarter-deck  alone  is  now  boarded  in;  and  liere  all  the 
ollieers  and  siek  are  sojourning.  The  wind  makes  this 
wooden  shanty  a  sonunvhat  airy  retreat;   hut,  far  tin 


health  of  our  maimed  scorbutie  men,  it  is  infinitelv 
preferable  to  the  less-ventilated  quarters  below.  Some 
of  the  crew,  with  one  stove,  are  still  in  the  forecastle; 
but  the  old  cabin  is  deserted. 

"I  left  Hans  as  hunter.  I  gave  him  a  regular  ex- 
emption from  all  other  labor,  and  a  promised  present  to 
his  lady-love  on  reaching  Fiskernaes.      He  signalized  liis 


th 
th 

IV 


I  ■    I 


-  4^   I 


;o  stowod  una 

lor  sea.  Till' 
ll  here  all  tlir 
1(1  inukt's  tlii> 
;   hut,  I'nr  til'' 


^^^^ 


it  is   infinitely 

s  ]jc4()W.     Some 

the  forecastle; 

1  a  regular  ex- 
nised  present  to 
I(^  si'j:uali/e<l  his 


I'  K()(i  K  i;  SS     ()  {•     s  !■  li  I  NO. 


2;Jo 


pn 


iiiiotion  hy  shootiu,!^  two  deer,  TiihlcKh,  the  first   vet 


.shot.  We  iiave  now  on  liaiid  one  hundred  and  fortv- 
li\e  jiounds  of  fine  venison,  a,  very  ^ift  ol'  i^raee  to  our 
diseased  ei'ew.  l>ut,  indeed,  we  are  not  like!}'  to  want 
Inr  wholesome  food,  now  that  the  ni.uht  is  gone,  w  hieli 
made  our  need  of  it  so  i)ressing.  On  the  first  of  .Ma\. 
those  charming  little  migrants  the  snow-hirds,  n/f!i/i<i 
ai/icolniii,  wliicdi  only  left  us  on  the  4th  of  Novemher. 
returned  to  our  ico-crustod  rocks,  whence  they  seem  to 
•fill  the  sea  and  air  with  their  sweet  jargoning.'  Seal 
lit(  lidly  abound  too.  I  have  learned  to  prefer  this  lii'sh 
to  the  reind(!er's,  at  least  that  of  the  fenuile  seal,  which 
has  not  the  fetor  of  her  mate's. 

'•\l\  the  12tli,  the  sides  of  the  Advance  were  fice 
from  snow,  and  her  rigging  clean  and  dry.  The  Hoe  is 
raj/idh'  undergoing  its  wonderful  processes  of  decay; 
and  the  level  ice  measures  but  six  feet  in  thiekness. 
T(Klay  they  report  a  burgomaster  gull  seen :  one  of  the 
earliest  but  surest  indications  of  returning  open  water. 
It  is  not  strange,  ice-leaguered  exiles  as  we  are,  that 
wo  ol)serve  and  exult  in  these  things.  They  are  the 
[)ledges  of  renewed  life,  the  olive-branch  of  this  dreary 
waste :  we  feel  the  spring  in  all  our  pulses. 

-  The  first  thing  I  did  after  my  return  was  to  send 
McGary  to  Life-boat  Cove,  to  see  that  our  boat  and  its 
buried  provisions  were  secure.  He  made  the  journey 
t)y  (log-sledge  in  four  days,  and  has  returned  reporting 
that  all  is  safe:  an  important  help  for  us,  should 
this  heavy  ice  of  our  more  northern  })rison  refuse  to 
release  us. 


,    1 
1 

ll 
\ 

li 

1 

I 

I    ■  I  j  ;  , 


w 


11 


'I 


I  ■    I 


^  ■■■  I:  ;, 


I  t.  ] 


HU 


;  I 


I- 


'1 


ll 


M  '  (i  A  U  V    s     u  i;  T  U  li  iV. 


••I)iit  tlic  [)K'iisant('st  li'iltiirc  <>!'  Iiis  jouriicy  wus  the 
(lisclosurc  of  ()[)('ii  \v;il<'i',  cxtciKliii;^'  up  in  ii,  sort  of 
toiijiiu',  with  ii  ti'ciid  (»r  iiortli  )»y  cjist  to  witliiii  (wo 
miles  of  lifl'iiiic  lliirhoi",  niid  (lu'i'c  widening  jis  it  I'x- 
[)ande(l  to  the  south  jind  west. 

'•Indeed,  some  cirenmstinices  wliicli  he  re[)orts  sccii, 
to  point  to  the  existence  of  ji  north  water  all  llic  \(;ir 
ronnd;  ;ind  the  IVecjuent  water-ski(  s,  I'oiis,  &('.,  that  wc 
have  seen  to  the  soutiiwest  dui'in,u'  tiie  winter,  lio  td 
confirm  the  IjK^t.  The  hreakin^' up  ol' the  Sniitii  Stniit's 
ice  commenees  much  earliei'  than  this;  hut  as  yet  it 
has  not  extended  farther  than  Littleton  Island,  wIkic 
I  should  hiive  wintered  if  my  fall  journey  had  not 
pointed  to  the  poliey  of  renuunin,L>'  here.  The  open 
water  undouhtedly  has  heen  the  eause  of  the  retreat  of 
the  Esquiuuiux.  Their  sledge-tracks  have  heeu  sccu 
all  along  the  land-foot;  but,  except  a  snow  house  at 
Es({uimaux  Point,  we  have  met  nothing  Avhich  to  tli" 
uninitiated  traveller  would  indicate  that  they  had 
rested  upon  this  desert  coast. 

"As  soon  as  I  had  recovered  enough  to  he  aware  of 
my  failure,  I  began  to  devise  means  for  remedying!  it, 
]5ut  I  found  the  resources  of  the  party  shattered. 
Pierre  had  died  but  a  Aveek  before,  and  his  death  ex- 
erted an  unfavorable  inlluence.  There  were  on]\'  tliivi' 
men  al)le  to  do  duty.  Of  the  officei'S,  Wilson,  Brooks. 
Sontag,  and  Petersen  Avere  knocked  up.  There  wtis  m 
one  except  Sontag,  Hayes,  or  myself,  who  Avas  qualifu'd 
to  conduct  a  survey ;  and,  of  us  three,  Dr.  Hayes  \va< 
the  only  one  on  his  feet. 


i 


(ll 
ill 
e'(i 
ill! 


.■^. 


,.;i;,i  i.'.iiil-i.-.i 


lU'iu'y  was  till' 

ill  a,  ^«<>^t    (il 

to  within  two 


un»j^'  as  il  rx- 


i>  reports  sccin 
i-r  all  tlu'  yi';ir 
IS,  &('.,  that  Wf 
'   winter,  ,tn)  to 
V  Smith  Strait's 
.;   but  as  yet  it 
n  Island,  win  iv 
)U\'ney   had  iKit 
ere.     The  o|U'U 
)t'  the  retreat  of 
have  b<'eu  seen 
snow  liousc  at 
f  Avliieli  to  til" 
that   they   had 

to  ])e  aware  of 
)r  reniedyin,^  il. 
)arty    shattere'd. 
id  Ills  death  cn- 
wcre  onl\'  tlnvc 
Wilson,  Brooks. 
There  was  w 
A\o  was  qiialifK'd 
Dr.  Hayes  was 


I)  u.    il  A  V  !•:  s  s    r  .\  i{  t  y. 


23: 


«Tli<'  (|iiartci'  to  wliieli  oui'  remaiiun'j  observations 
\\('Vi>  to  !»<'  dii'eeti'd  lay  to  tiie  north  and  east  ol'  tiie 
(';i|ie  Sabine  ol'  Captain  In.ulelield.  The  interruption 
oiir  pi'o;:ri'SS  aloni:'  the  coast  of  Greeidand  ha<l  met  IVoni 
tiie  Gri'at  Glaeiei',  and  the  destrncttion  ol"  our  pro\  ision- 
cnches  by  the  bears,  l{>ft  a  blank  for  us  oC  the  entii'c 
iioitheni  coast-line.  Tt  was  necessary  to  ascertain 
whet'.ier  the  lartherniost  expansion  ol'  Sinitli's  Strait 
did  not  find  an  outlet  in  still  more  remote  chaiuiels; 
;iii(l  this  became  our  duty  the  more  |)lainly,  since  our 
theodolite  had  shown  us  that  the  northern  coast  trended 
oil'  to  the  eastward,  and  not  toward  the  west,  as  oiu" 
])redecessor  had  supposed.  The  an.irular  dillerence  of 
sixtv  decrees  between  its  bearinus  on  his  charts  and 
our  own  left  me  completely  in  the  dark  as  to  what 
iiiiulit  Ijc  the  condition  of  this  unknown  area. 

"I  determined  to  trust  ahnost  entirely  to  iho,  do,i>'s 
for  our  travel  in  the  future,  and  to  send  our  ])arties  of 
exploration,  one  after  the  otluM',  as  rapidlj^  as  the 
strength  and  refreshing  ol'  our  team  would  permit. 

'•Dr.  Hayes  was  selected  for  that  purpose;  and  I 
siitisfied  myself  that,  w^ith  a  little  assistance  from  my 
comrades,  I  could  be  carried  round  to  the  cots  of  the 
sick,  and  so  avail  myself  of  his  services  in  the  field. 

"He  was  a  perfectly  fresh  man,  not  having  yet  un- 
dertaken a  journey.  I  gave  him  a  team  and  my  best 
driver,  William  Gixlfrey.  He  is  to  cross  Smith's  Straits 
iiljove  the  inlet,  and  make  as  near  as  may  be  a  straight 
course  for  Cape  Sabine.  My  opinion  is  that  by  keep- 
iiiLi'  well  south  he  will  find  the  ice  less  clogged  and 


'DO 


!|l; 


;      I  ' 


1'  - 


!;• 


(I 


I' ' 


"I  ■ 


¥h\ 


H 


•„i 


1  H 

■iiiili 

'      ''  ''. 

■    .  ,,;'■ 

■ ! 

!•  i 

;          i 

u 

■:\ 

it 

i 

,  ,  ,  i 

:      P' 

:l> 


m 


I  i,  I 


I*:'' 


!•,'•,      '  ! 


.F« 


.^1 


■I  ; 


4  I 


I  I- 


238 


E  Q  U  I  P  M  E  N  T. 


easier  sledging.  Our  experience  proves,  I  think,  that 
the  transit  of  this  broken  area  must  be  most  impeded 
as  we  approach  the  glacier.  The  immense  discharcc 
of  icebergs  cannot  fail  to  break  it  up  seriously  for 
travel. 

"I  gave  him  the  sniall  sledge  which  was  built  by  Mr. 
Ohlsen.  The  snow  was  suiliciently  thawed  to  make  it 
almost  unnecessary  to  use  lire  as  a  means  of  obtaining 
water:   they  could  therefore  dispense  with   tallow  or 


-.3" 


■  V'-^   '  '    ' 


■'"  '.itf^i-.'MJv'-ttw'. ;. : '  - « ;!fc^-a«siia!«'«»w*t'^ 


THE      TEAM. 


alcohol,  and  were  able  to  carry  pemmican  in  larger 
quantities.  Their  sleeping-br^s  were  a  very  neat  arti- 
cle of  a  light  reindeer-skin.  The  dogs  were  in  excel- 
lent condition  too,  no  longer  foot-sore,  l)ut  well  rested 
and  completely  broken,  including  the  four  from  the 
Esquimaux,  animals  of  great  power  and  size.  Two 
of  these,  the  stylish  leaders  of  the  team,  a  span  of 
thoroughly  wolfish  iron-grays,  have  the  most  powerful 
and  wild-beastr-like  bound  that  I  have  seen  in  animals 
of  their  kind. 


I  think,  that 
nost  impeded 
use  discharge 

seriously  for 

ls  built  by  Mr. 
eel  to  make  it 
IS  of  obtaiiiii^ii; 
;rith    tallow  or 


dean  in  larger 

very  neat  arti- 

were  in  excel- 

luit  Avell  rested 

four  from  the 
ind  size.  Two 
[am,  a  span  of 

most  powerful 
jeen  in  animals 


P  R  O  G  K  K  S  S     OF     SPRING. 


900 


"I  made  up  the  orders  of  the  party  on  the  i'Jth,  the 
first  day  that  I  was  able  to  mature  a  phin;  and  with 
commendable  zeal  they  left  the  brig  on  the  20th. 

"May  2o,  Tuesday. — They  have  had  superb  wanither, 
thank  heaven! — a  ]  ofusion  of  the  most  genial  sun- 
siiine.  bringing  out  the  seals  in  crow^ds  to  bask  around 
their  breathing-holes.  A  ptarmigan  was  killed  to-day, 
a  male,  with  but  two  brown  feathers  on  the  back  of 
his  little  neck  to  indicate  the  return  of  his  summer- 
plnmage. 

'•The  winter  is  gone!  The  Andromeda  has  been 
found  on  shore  under  the  snow,  with  tops  vegetating 
and  green !     I  have  a  shoot  of  it  in  my  hand. 

''May  25,  Thursday. — Bauds  of  soft  mist  hide  the 
tops  of  the  hills:  the  unbroken  transparency  of  last 
month's  atmosphere  has  disappeared,  and  the  sky  has 
all  the  ashen  or  pearly  obscurity  of  the  Arctic  summer. 

'•May  2G,  Friday. — I  get  little  done;  but  I  have  too 
mueli  to  attend  to  in  my  weak  state  to  journalize. 
Thermometer  above  freezing-point,  witliout  the  sun  to- 
day. 

•'May  27,  Saturday. — Every  thing  showing  that  the 
summer  changes  have  commenced.  The  ice  is  rapidly 
losing  its  integrity,  and  a  melting  snow  has  fallen  for 
the  last  two  days, —  one  of  those  comforting  home- 
snows  that  we  have  not  seen  for  so  long. 

"  May  28,  Sunday. — Our  day  of  rest  and  devotion. 
It  was  ;i  fortnight  ago  last  Friday  since  our  poor 
friend  Pierre  died.  For  nearly  tAvo  months  he  had 
been  struggling  against  the  enemy  with  a  resolute  will 


111 

.(ii 


11 


■|ii  ji,( 
I 


.»' 


M 


'•It 


!f  I 


111 

iii! 


^iiiN' 


ill' ' 


ia" 


I  ' 


) ' 


li  1 0 


S(1  II  V  15  i:  li  T    S      V  I  N  K  H  A  L. 


inid  inii-lliriil  spiril.  lli;il   M'ciucd  .sure  ol'  victory.     Imii 
lu>  sunk  ill  s|)i(('  ol"  llinii. 

"  Tlu'  last  olliccs  \v(>r(>  rendered  to  him  witli  ih,. 
sMiue  eareriil  eeremoiiiul  IIimI  we  oliserved  nl  r);ikcr> 
rimer;il.  Tliere  were  fewer  (o  widk  in  (he  piocessiDn ; 
I»ul  llie  Iu)d\'  was  encased  in  adecenl  pine  coll'm  ami 
can-ied  to  ()lts(>r\  alorv  Island,  where  il  was  placed  sidc- 
hv-side  willi  llial  ol'  Ins  messmate.  Neither  could  wt 
he  huried  ;  huL  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  tin' 
frost  has  emhalmed  their  remains.  Dr.  Hayes  rend 
the  chajiter  from  .loh  which  has  consi,!Aiied  so  man\  to 
their  last  restinii-plaee,  and  a  little  snow  was  sprinkled 
npon  the  face  of  the  collin  Pierre  was  a  V(diiiil(vr 
not  only  of  om-  general  expedition,  hut  of  the  [larty 
with  which  he  met.  his  death-hlow.  lie  was  a  L;:iil;iiit 
man,  a^  universal  favorite  on  hoard,  always  siimirii; 
some  ]?erau<2;er  hallad  or  other,  and  so  elastic  in  In^ 
merriuKMit  that  eveu  in  his  last  sickness  he  (diccivd 
all  that  were  ;>l)<)ii(  l;iii:."' 


.1   - 


a    i 


h  f 


if 


\ii't(n'v.      l>i 


liim    Nvilli   tlir 
•(>(!  Ill    IVikcr's 
li('  j»r(>r('ssi(»ii ; 
)iiu'   rolliii  ;iiiil 
as  plarcd  sidc- 
itlu-r  coulil  yet 
o  sa\'  lliat   llic 
)r.    11  lives   rend 
ihmI  so  nian\  to 
\-  \vas  spriiildcil 
,as   a   volmilci'i' 
it   of  llic  party 
|i>  was  a  -ailaiit 
aUvj\_vs   sin^iri;: 
)  olasfn'  in  lii^ 

I'SS    he    clu'CM'l'll 


CllAPrKIl    XX. 

si;AI,-in'.NTI.N(l — Sill     .KtllN      IRANKia.N       li  I.SOiaiCKS — ACCiaMA'll/A- 
TKiN— Till'.     lUn'K — Dll.    IIAVKS'S     KKIIIl.N — IHS     ./Ol  1!  M,  V     -SNOW 
l!l.lM».Ni;s;; — CAVK     HA  VMS — 'I'lIK     DOOS     TA  NOI-Kf)     -M  KNDI  NO      IIIK 
IIAItMlSS— CAI'KS    I.KIDV     AM)     I'llAZI'.K — DOIiIMN     IIA  V---I  l,i;i('ll  Kll 

wiaisTiat  iiKADr.AM) — pkikk  I'oiua';  hay — ni;\v  pariiks  -riiiai( 
oitniais — lauxaiKss  ok  skason— tiiI';  skai, — -tiik   ni/isik    and 

liSlK — A    ItKAR     -Ol  R    K.\(;oi;.NTI;R— <aiANOK    IN    'IIIK    I  I.OK 

''May  .')(),  Tuesday. — W(!  arc  <.^l('aniMg  Iresli  water 
tVoiii  the  rocks,  and  the  i(;(d)ergs  hegiri  to  show  coin- 
iiiciiciiiir  sli'eairilets.  The  grea,t  floe  is  no  huiiicr  a 
Sahara,  if  still  a  desei't.  TIk;  floes  aro  wef,  and  flicir 
snows  dissolvi^  readily  under  the  warmth  of  the  loot, 
and  the  old  floe  liCLnns  to  sh(!(i  fresh  water  into  its 
hollows.  Puddles  of  salt  water  (;olle<;t  around  the 
ice-loot.  It  is  now  hardly  nMJognizahle, —  I'oii tided, 
uiken,  hroken  u[)  with  water-pools  ovorflowiiiL!'  its 
liase.  Its  diminished  crusts  arc  so  yxircolnted  l)y  the 
>aliiic  tides,  that  neither  tahles  nor  hrok(;n  IVaLnnents 
unite  anv  lonu'cr  hv  f'ree/,in<4.  It  is  less"ninti'  so  raoiillv 
that   we   do   not   fear    it   any   lonjrer   as   ,'in   enemy   to 


SI 


I  . 


n, 


•\a¥M\ 


f 


iiJ 


i  X 


fi 


Vol..  l.-Ki 


•J  11 


010 


the  1 


SE  AL-H  U  X  TI  XG. 


)n<x. 


The  I 


ideed 


10   DvY'fi  inaeea  vanislR'( 


llC'd    1 


lu'i; 


ong  lu'Ioiv  the 


sun-tlierinometers  indicjited  a  noon-temperature  aliovo 
32°. 

" The  changes  of  this  ice  at  temperatures  far  Ixlou- 
the  freezing-point  confirm  the  views  I  formed  upon  mv 
hist  cruise  as  to  the  limited  influence  of  direct  tlunv, 
I  am  convinced  that  the  expansion  of  the  ice  after  tlu' 
contraction  of  low  temperatures,  and  the  infdtnitivi' 
or  endosmometric  change.->  thus  induced, — the  dilU'riiii; 
temperatures  of  sea-water  and  ice,  and  their  chemiciil 
relati(ms, — the  mechanical  action  of  pressure,  collapse. 
fracture,  and  disruption, — the  effects  of  sun-lieated 
snow-surfaces,  falls  of  warm  snow,  currents,  wiiul. 
drifts,  nid  wave-action, —  all  these  leave  the  great 
nuiss  of  the  Polar  ice-surfaces  so  broken,  disintegi-atod. 
and  reduced,  when  the  extreme  cold  abates,  and  so 
changed  in  structure  and  molecular  character,  that 
the  few  weeks  of  summer  thaw  have  but  a  subsidiary 
office  to  perform  in  completing  their  destruction. 

"  Seal  of  the  Hispid  variety. 
the  Netsik  of  the  Esquimaux  and 
Danes,  grow  still  more  nuiiiorou<; 
on  the  level  floes,  Iving  cautiouslv 
in  the  sun  beside  their  nfjiih.^' 
By  means  of  the  Esquimaux  strn- 
tagem  of  a  wdiite  screen  piislicil 
forward   on    a   sledge    until   tln' 


SEAL     SCREEN. 


concealed    hunter    comes   within 
range,    Hans    has    shot    four  of 
them.     "VVe  have  more  fresh  meat  than  we  can  eat. 


.Ollg  lu't'orc  the 

perjituvo  iiliovc 

tiiros  fur  Ijt'low 
[H'iiumI  u])()ii  mv 
of  direct  tlunv. 
the  ice  after  the 
the   infiltrative 
1, — the  (linerini: 
[  their  chemical 
ressure,  collap^i'. 
s    of   smi-lieatiMl 
currents,   wind. 
leave   the   great 
n\,  disintegrated. 
I  abates,  and  so 
character,  that 
but  a  subsidiary 
estruction. 

Hispid  variety. 
3  Esquimaux  and 
L  more  nuiiiorou* 
i,  Ivinc:  cautiously 
Ic  their  nfJuh^ 
Esquimaux  st ra- 
te screen  piisheil 
sledge    until   tlic 
er    comes   within 
as    shot    four  of 
han  we  can  oat, 


i 


sin     JOHN      FRANKLIN. 


243 


For  the  past  three  weeks  we  have  Ihhmi  livin<r  on  ptar- 
ini'-an,  ral)liits,  two  reindeer,  and  seal. 


SHOOTING       SEAL. 


••Tlieyare  fast  curing  our  scurvy.  With  all  these 
resources, — coming  to  our  relief  so  suddeidy  too, — how 
can  my  thoughts  turn  despairingly  to  poor  Franklin 
and  his  crew  ? 

"  ....  Can  they  have  survived?  No  man  can 
answer  Avith  certainty ;  but  no  man  without  presump- 
tion can  answer  in  the  negative. 

"'If,  four  months  ago, — surrounded  by  darkness  and 
howed  down  by  disease, — [  had  been  asked  the  ques- 
tion, I  would  have  turned  toward  the  black  hills  <tnd 
the  frozen  sea,  and  responded  in  sympathy  with  them, 
'No.'  But  with  the  return  of  light  a  savage  people 
come  down  upon  us,  destitute  of  any  but  the  rudest 


i  ! 


il 


;iijj;| 


rr' 


1M 

'I  I 
''  ill  j 


i 


1 


i 


"!., 


..*•  ', 


f 

'  'I* 

i:  ' 

1 

i 


>  li 


■  I 
I 


I  , 


LM4 


u  ]•:  s  ()  r  lie  K  s. 


i  ri 


H  ''•''  i 


:''%N 


.:}; 

ai 


jippliances  of  the  I'liasc,  who  uhm'u  lattening  on  the 
most  wholesome  diet  of  the  region,  only  forty  miles 
from  our  aiiohoriige,  while  I  was  denouncing  its 
scarcity. 

'•For  Franklin,  every  thing  depends  upon  locality : 
hut,  from  what  I  can  see  of  Arctic  exploration  thus 
far,  it  would  be  hard  to  hnd  a  circle  of  fifty  miles' 
diameter  entirely  destitute  of  an.imal  resources.  The 
most  solid  winter-ice  is  open  here  and  there  in  puuls 
and  patches  worn  by  currents  and  tides.  Such  weiv 
the  open  spaces  that  Parry  found  in  Wellington  Chan- 
nel ;  such  are  the  stream-holes  (stromhols)  of  the 
Greenland  coast,  the  polynia  of  the  Russians:  and 
such  we  have  ourselves  found  in  the  most  rigorous 
cold  of  all. 

''  To  these  spots,  the  seal,  walrus,  and  the  early 
birds  crowd  in  numbers.  One  which  kept  open,  as 
we  find  from  the  Esquiinaux,  at  Littleton  Island, 
only  forty  miles  from  us,  sustained  three  families  last 
winter  until  the  opening  of  the  north  water.  Now. 
if  we  have  lieen  entirely  supported  for  the  past  throe 
wrecks  by  the  hunting  of  a  single  man, —  seal-ineat 
alone  being  plentiful  enough  to  subsist  us  till  we 
turn  homeward, — certainly  a  party  of  tolerably  skilful 
hunters  might  lay  up  an  aljundant  stock  for  the  win- 
ter. As  it  is,  we  are  making  caches  of  meat  imder 
the  snow,  to  prevent  its  spoiling  on  our  hands,  in  the 
very  spot  which  a  few  days  ago  I  described  as  a,  Sa- 
hara. And,  indeed,  it  was  so  for  nine  whole  moiitlis, 
when  this  tlood  of  animal  life  burst  upon  us  like  foun- 


111 


tteiiing  on  tlir 
ily  forty  m'\\v< 
lenounciiig    its 

upon  locality; 
xploration  tliiis 
;  of  fifty  miio' 
resources.  Tiic 
I  there  in  pools 
les.  Such  Avi'iv 
Wellington  Cliun- 
oniliols)    of   the 

Russians ;   ami 
e  most  rigorous 

[  and  tlie  early 
1  kept  open,  as 
jittlcton  Island 
iree  families  last 
til  water.  Now. 
>r  the  past  threu 
man, —  seal-moat 
bsist   us   till  \ve 

tolerably  skilful 
tock  for  the  \vin- 
s  of  meat  imdov 
)ur  hands,  in  tlu' 
escribed  as  a  Sa- 

e  whole  months. 
ipon  us  like  ibuu- 


•M, 


AC  f  L  1  M  A  T  1  Z  A  T  I  o  N, 


245 


tains  of  water  and  pastinvs  and  date-trers  in  a  soutli- 
cni  desert. 

'•  1  have  underg(me  one  change  in  o[)inion.  It  is  of 
the  ability  of  Knropeans  or  Americans  to  inure  thein- 
schcs  to  an  ultra-Arctic  climate.  (Jod  forbid,  indeed, 
that  i'ivili/A'd  man  should  be  exposed  lor  successive 
\cars  to  this  blighting  darkness!  Jhit  around  the 
Arctic  circle,  even  as  high  as  72°,  where  cold  and 
(•(tld  only  is  to  be  encountered,  men  may  be  accliiujir 
ti/A'd.  for  there  is  light  enough  for  out-door  labor. 

••()f  the  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  })icked  men  of 
Sir  John  Franklin  in  184(),  Northern  Orkney  men, 
Giveidand  whalers,  so  many  young  and  hardy  constitu- 
tions, with  so  much  intcdligent  experience  to  guide 
tlicm.  I  cannot  realize  that  some  inav  not  vet  be  alive; 
that  some  small  stpiad  or  s(piads,  aided  or  not  aideil  by 
the  Ksipumaux  of  the  ex})edition,  may  not  have  found 
a  hunting-ground,  and  laid  up  from  summer  to  summer 
ciioullIi  of  fuel  and  Ibod  and  seal-skins  to  brave  three 
or  even  four  more  winters  in  succession. 

'•I  speak  of  the  miracle  of  this  bountiful  fair  season. 
I  could  hardly  have  been  much  more  sur})rised  if  these 
hlack  rocks,  instead  of  sending  out  upon  our  solitude 
the  late  inroad  of  yelling  Esquimaux,  had  sent  us  na- 
turalized Saxons.  Two  of  our  party  at  first  fancietl 
they  were  such. 

"The  mysterious  compensations  by  which  we  adapt 
ourselves  to  climate  are  more  strikinu'  here  than  in  the 
tropics.  In  the  Polar  zoik  the  assault  is  immediate 
and  sudden,  and,   unlike  the  insidious  fatality  of  liot 


'.!■■; 


(  ' 


I 


i 


yi' 


1  -i 

I 


r! 


II    i 


I'  " 


24G 


GROUNDS     OF     HOPE. 


countries,  produces  its  results  ra[)i(lly.  It  roquiivs 
hardly  a  sin.t'le  winter  to  tell  who  are  to  bo  the  luat. 
making  and  acclimatized  men.  Petersen,  for  instance. 
who  has  resided  for  two  years  at  Upernavik,  seldom 
enters  a  room  with  a  fire.  Another  of  our  party,  Geuruv 
Riley,  with  a  vigorous  constitution,  estal^lished  hiiljit> 
of  free  exposure,  and  active  cheerful  temperament,  has 
so  inured  himself  to  the  cold,  that  he  sleeps  on  our 
sledge-journeys  without  a  blanket  or  any  other  coveriiiL: 
than  his  walking-suit,  while  the  outside  temperaturu  is 
oU°  below  zero.  The  half-breeds  of  the  coast  rival  the 
Esquimaux  in  their  powers  of  endurance. 

''There  must  be  many  such  men  with  Franklin.  Tliu 
North  British  sailors  of  the  Greenland  seal  and  wliak' 
fisheries  I  look  upon  as  inferior  to  none  in  capacity  to 
resist  the  Arctic  climates. 

••  My  mind  never  realizes  the  complete  catastropLe, 
the  destruction  of  all  Franklin's  crews.  I  picture  them 
to  myself  broken  into  detachments,  an.!  ..y  mind  lixes 
itself  on  one  little  group  of  some  thirty,  who  have  found 
the  open  spot  of  some  tidal  eddy,  and  under  the  teach- 
ings of  an  Esquimaux  or  perhaps  one  of  their  own 
Greenland  whalers,  have  set  bravely  to  work,  and 
trapped  the  fox,  speared  the  Ix'ar,  and  killed  the  seal 
and  walrus  and  whale.  I  think  of  them  ever  witli 
hope.     I  sicken  not  to  be  able  to  reach  them. 

"It  is  a  year  ago  to-day  since  we  left  New  York.  I 
am  not  as  sanguine  as  I  was  then :  time  and  experience 
have  chastened  me.  Tliere  is  every  thing  about  lue  to 
check  enthusiasm  and  moderate  hope.     I  am  here  in 


'\' 


m-- 


J.  Tt  requlrt's 
to  1)0  the  lieat- 
L'li,  lor  instiuicc. 
jrnavik,  seldom 
Lir  party,  fleoruv 
ttiblislic'd  luiljit> 
inperaTiient,  has 
e  sleeps  on  our 
y  other  covi'riu'j; 
»  teiiiperature  is 
0  coast  rival  tho 
ce. 

L  Franklin.    The 

seal  and  wliak' 

le  in  capaeity  to 

lete  catastroplio, 
I  picture  tlii'iii 
."!  ._y  mind  iixi's 
,  ^vho  have  ibuiul 
under  the  teuili- 
le  of  their  uwii 
y  to  work,  aiul 
i  killed  the  seal 
them  ever  witli 
li  them. 

!ft  New  York.  1 
LC  and  expericnoo 
hing  about  lue  to 
e.     I  am  here  in 


D  u.    n  A  Y  K  s  s    K  i:  T  r  u  X. 


'1\ 


I'orccti  inaction,  a  broken-down  man,  op[)n'sscd  by  cares, 
with  many  dangers  belbre  me,  and  still  under  the  sha- 
Jou'  of  a  hard  wearing  winter,  which  has  crushed  two 
ul"  niv  best  associates.  Here  on  the  spot,  after  two 
unavailing  expeditions  of  search,  I  hold  my  opinions 
niuhanged;  and  I  record  them  as  a  matter  of  duty 
upon  a  numuscript  which  may  speak  the  truth  when  I 
can  do  so  no  longer. 

•■June  1,  Thursday. — At  ten  o'clock  this  morning 
the  wail  of  the  dogs  outside  announced  the  return  of 
Dr.  Hayes  and  William  Godfrey.  Both  of  them  were 
completely  snow-blind,  and  the  doctor  had  to  be  led  to 
niv  iK'dside  to  make  his  report.  In  fact,  so  exhausted 
was  he,  that  in  spite  of  my  anxiety  I  forbore  to  question 
him  until  he  had  rested.  I  venture  to  say,  that  both 
he  and  his  companion  well  remember  their  astonishing 
performance  over  stewed  apples  and  seal-meat. 

"The  dogs  were  not  so  footrsore  as  might  have  been 
expected;  but  two  of  them,  including  poor  little 
'Jenny,'  were  completely  knocked  up.  All  attention 
was  bestowed  upon  these  indispensable  essentials  of 
Arctic  seaich,  and  soon  they  were  more  happy  than 
their  masters." 

ir.  liancs's  lourncir. 

Dr.  Hayes  made  a  due  north  line  on  leaving  thf  hr\]  • 
but,  encountering  the  "squeezed  ices"  of  my  own  p.  ty 
in  March,  he  wisely  worked  to  the  eastward.  I  had 
advised  him  to  descend  to  Smith's  Sound,  under  a  con- 
viction that  the  icebergs  there  would  be  less  numerous. 


I      I      ',     ; 


!   • 


;'  1 


1, 


t. :. 


j 

'1 

1 

1   , 

'  '1 

\  it 

■ 
■  1 

ili 

1 

I  . 


.1.  , 

i: 

'■     1. 

1' 

i'   \ 

:  r 

i' 

■■\ 

i 
■     «    1 

■h, 

:|:l 

!  I 


i.  I 


'    ! 

1 ''        '  '  ''  ■  ^   '^ 

,   |l|: 

'    1  ■  i'' 

'1    'if !        'i 

:                '■'■I'' 

iMdi^ 

t  ,1 


1^1  s 


HIS    .1 1»  I  i;  N  r.  V 


and    (hat    jii(>   diiiiiiiisluMl   distance   iVoin    land    to  I; 
would   make   liis   transit    more  easy.      Txit  lie  ii 


\i<\ 


iii'it'(i 


to  cllcct        '  object  by  a  k'ss  circuitous  route  tiian  I  li 
anticipate-       I'or,  altliouLi'li  he  mad*'  hut  lil'teen  ii.i 


CS  (II 


tl 


lltl 


d  th 


;t  dav  I'l 


the  h 


le  ::uui.  ne  eniei'ncd  nie  next  day  li'oni  nie  liea\\  k,. 
and  made  iit  least  (il'ty.  On  this  day  his  meridian  ol,. 
servation  ^iive  the  latitude  of  70°  8'  (>",  and  iVom  ;i 
lar«:i'  Iterj;'  he  si;;hted  many  points  of  the  coast. 

On  till'  2'2d,  he  eiicountere  a  wall  of  hmiunocjvs. 
exceedini;'  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  extendiiii;  in  a 
loni;'  line  to  the  northeast. 

Al'ter  vain  attem|)ts  to  force  them,  hecoiiiinn;  ,,||i. 
harrassed  in  fragmentary  ice,  worn,  to  use  his  own 
Avords.  into  ''deep  ])its  and  valleys,"  he  was  ohliuvd  in 
cainj),  surrounded  hy  masses  of  the  wildest  character, 
some  of  them  thirty  feet  in  heiu-ht. 

Tlie  next  three  days  weri' s})ent  in  stru<';i;les  tliroiidi 
this  broken  plain;  ioL-s  sometimes  embarrassed  tliciii. 
but  at  intervals  land  could  be  seen  to  the  northwest. 
On  the  27th,  they  reached  the  north  side  of  the  hiiv. 
})assin<i'  over  but  few  miles  of  new  and  unbroken  Hoe. 

The  excessively  broken  and  ru^<;ed  cliara(!ter  of  this 
ice  they  had  encountered  must  be  due  to  the  discharges 
from  the  Great  (Jlacier  of  Humboldt,  which  arrest  the 
Hoes  and  nuike  them  liable  to  excessive  disruptiuii 
under  the  inlluence  of  winds  and  currents. 

Dr.  Hayes  told  me,  that  in  many  places  they  could 
not  have  advimced  a  step  but  for  the  doizs.  Deeii 
cavities  filled  with  snow  intervened  between  lines  ef 
ice-l)arricades,  making  their  travel  as  slow  and  tedious 


til 


II  liind  to  liii.il 
IVdt  Ik'  iii;mii;:vii 
'oiitc  tliiiii  1  Inn; 
lirtccii  ii.iK's  oi: 
II   tlic  llCilVV  ice. 

lis  lucridiim  nli- 

(>",    illld     iVolll    ;i 

lie  coast. 
I  (»r   limmiKicks. 
('xtt'iidiiiii'  ill  a 

I,  hocomiiiu'  ciii- 
to  use  liis  own 
I'  was  ohliu'cd  til 
ildost.  cliaractci'. 

tru};\L;U*s  tlirouiiii 
il)arrass('d  tliciii. 
[)  the  liortliwcst. 
side  of  the  Itiiy. 

unbroiveii  Hoc. 

(diaraeter  ot"  this 

to  the  disciiarm's 

Ahicli   arrest  tlif 

ssive   disruption 

iits. 

hiees  thev  I'ould 
he  dogs.  Decji 
)et\veeii  lines  of 
slow  and  tedious 


SNOW -11  \.  I  \  ii  \  i: 


241) 


us  tlie  satiH'  olistriietioiis  liad  ddiic  to   tlif  parlv  oi'  \nn  y 
llidoks  liefoic  llirir  (Nciiiriil  rescue  last   .March. 

Their  course  was  lanv  exlrciiudv  tin'tiioiis;  for.  al- 
though Ironi  the  iieadlands  of  l\ensselaer  Ilarlior  to  the 
point  which  thej    lirst    reached  on   the   northern   coast 


DOGS     AMONG      11  ERGS. 


was  not  more  than  niiietv  miles  as  tlie  crow  Hies, 
\i't  h\  the  dead  reckoning  of  tlie  parts'  tlie\'  must 
have  iiad  an  actual  travel  of  two  hundred  and  seveiitv. 
For  the  details  of  this  ])assa.ge  I  refer  the  reader  to 
tiie  ap[>ended  report  of  Dr.  Ifayes.  His  gravest  and 
most  insurin()untai)le  dilliculty  w;is  snow-blindness, 
which  so  allected   him   that  for  some  time  he  Avas  not 


H 


I 


i'-', 

Vi 


hjll:. 


I.       !  ■!  « 


m 


!l'i; 


ti 


Hi 


'2'A) 


CAl'i:      IIAVKS. 


iiMc  lo  use  llu'  sextant.      His   jounial-cnti-y   rclVrrinr 
to  till'  'J'»(l,  NvliiK'   tiui^li'tl  ill  tlic   ice,  .siivs,  ••  I 


ua 


S   S(i 


((Will;: 


j^now-liliitd  tliat  I  ('(Mild   not   sec;   and  as  ridin; 

to  tlic  jaded  condition  of  the  dogs,  was  seldom  ijossihlc. 

we  were  olilijicd  to  lay  to." 

It  was  not  until  tiie  -l")tli  that  their  eyesi«ilit  \v;i-4 
snllieientiy  restored  to  eiiahle  them  to  j)iish  on.  hi 
these  devious  and  untrodden  ice-lields,  even  the  in- 
stinet  ol'  the  do<|,s  would  have  been  of  little  avail  tn 
direct  their  course.  It  was  well  for  the  party  tlmt 
dnriiiLi"  tiiis  compiilsorv  halt  the  temperatures  wciv 
mild  and  endnrahle.  From  their  station  of  the  "j-jtli. 
they  obtained  reliable  sinlits  of  the  coast,  trendiiii;'  td 
the  northward  and  eastward,  and  ii  reliable  deteniiina. 
tion  of  latitude,  in  7'.)°  2i'  4".  A  lino  headland,  hoar-  [ 
uvj:  nearly  due  northwest,  I  named  Cape  Hayes,  in 
commemoration  of  the  gentleman  who  discovered  it.         | 

Instead,  however,  of  making  for  the  land,  which 
could  not  have  aided  their  survey,  they  followed  the 
outer  ice,  at  the  same  time  edging  in  toward  a  lol'tv 
blutV  whose  i)osition  they  had  determined  by  iiitci- 
section.  They  hoped  here  to  effect  a  landing,  hut  cii- 
count  "d  a  fresh  zone  of  broken  ice  in  the  attciiii)!, 
The  hummocks  could  not  be  turned.  The  sledi^v  had 
to  be  lifted  over  them  by  main  strength,  and  it  reiiuiioil 
the  most  painful  efforts  of  the  whole  party  to  lik'iato 
it  from  the  snow  between  them. 

On  the  2C)tli,  disasters  accumulated.  WiUiain  God- 
frey, one  of  the  sturdiest  travellers,  broke  down ;  and 


•cut I'}'  rcrt'rriuij 
^a)H,  '•  I  was  su 
IS  ruling',  owiuir 
j^oltUnu  [u)ssil)l('. 

ir  oycsi^lit  wib 
()   |)iisli  on.     Ill 
Is,   (.'voii    tlu'  ill- 
)['  little  avail  tn 
the    party  tluit 
mu'ratiiivs  wi'iv 
ion  of  the  ll')(li. 
oust,  tivndiiii;'  to 
liable  (leteniiina- 
}  heiullaiul,  Ix'ur- 
Cape   Hayes,  in 
discovered  it. 
the   land,  which 
lev  loUowed  tlio 
n  toward  a  lofty 
mined   ])V  iiitci- 
landinj^-,  but  cii- 
in  tbe  atteiniit. 
The  sledge  hail 
1,  and  it  ve([uiiv(l 
party  to  liburato 


.     AV.Miam  God- 
)r(»ke  down;  and     . 


T  11 1;    i'<»(i  s    T  A  N  i,  I,  i;  1). 


'I'A 


the  doirs.  tlie  indispensable  reliance  ol"  tlic  pai'ty.  wen* 
ill  had  working'  ti-iin.  The  rude  inii'ness,  always  apt 
til  lii'coiiie  tangled  and  broken,  had  hccn  nien<led  so 
nt'tcn  ant!  with  sueh  inj[)erreet  means  as  to  he  scai'e«'ly 
(^i'i'\  i('<'!d»le. 


-iWIfe      t».*  J« 


JN*^—""'^  -«i2t:^'M?' 


CAPE       HAYES. 


This  evil  would  seem  the  annoyance  of  an  hour  to 
the  travellers  in  a  stage-coach,  t-ut  to  a  sledge-party 
on  the  ice-waste  it  is  the  gravest  that  can  he  con- 
ceived. The  Escpnmaux  dog,  as  I  before  mentioned, 
is  driven  by  a  single  trace,  a  hmg  thin  thong  of  seal 
or  walrus-hide,  wdiich  passes  from  his  chest  over  his 
haunches  to  the  sledge.  The  team  is  always  driven 
abreast,   and    the    traces    are   of  course    tannlinu'   and 


:  » 


!l 


W 


i|i 


t  I 


Mi      ..  ' 
•j'     |g 


f  I 


.: 


1 

i 

1    ' 

i 

, 

1 , 

1 ':  ; 

I 

i .  1 


MENDINC;      THE      HARNESS. 


twistiiiji,'  tlKMiisolves  up  iiicc^saiitly,  as  the  halllwild 
or  terrified  l)rutes  bouiul  right  or  left  Irom  theii-  piv. 
scribed  positions,  Thv  eonsecpieiice  is,  that  tlie  seven 
or  nine  or  fourteen  lines  have  a  niarveUous  ai)titii(K' at 
knotting  themselves  up  beyond  the  reach  of  skill  and 
[)atience.  If  the  weather  is  warm  enough  to  thaw  the 
snow,  they  become  utterly  soft  and  llaccid,  and  the 
naked  hand,  if  applied  ingeniously,  may  dispense  with 
a  resort  to  the  Gordian  process.  15ut  in  the  severe 
cold,  such  as  I  experienced  in  my  winter  journejs  of 
1854,  the  knife  is  often  the  only  appliance;  an  uiisit'e 
one  if  invoked  too  often,  for  every  new  attachment 
shortens  your  harness,  and  you  may  end  by  drawing' 
your  dogs  so  close  that  they  cannot  pull."  I  have  heen 
obliged  to  halt  and  cam[)  on  the  oj)en  floe,  till  1  coulil 
renew  enoui»h  of  Avarmth  and  enerii'v  and  i)atieii('e  te 
disentangle  the  knots  of  my  harness.  Oh,  how  elia- 
rital)ly  have  I  remend)ered  Doctor  Slop! 

It  was  only  after  ap[)ro[)riating  an  undue  share  nf 
his  seal-skin  breeches  that  the  leader  of  the  party  sne- 
eeeded  in  patching  up  his  mutilated  dog-lines.  ]U' 
was  rewarded,  however,  for  ho  shortly  after  found  an 
old  lloe,  over  which  his  sledge  passed  ha[)[)ily  to  the 
north  coast.  It  was  the  iirst  time  that  any  of  our 
[)arties  had  succeeded  in  penetrating  the  area  to  the 
north.  The  ice  had  balUed  three  organized  foot- 
parties.  It  could  certainly  never  have  been  traversed 
without  the  aid  of  dogs;  l)ut  it  is  e(juti'lly  certain  tliat 
the  ell'oi't  nnist  auain  have  I'ailed,  even  wi(h  their  aid. 
but   for   the   enerii'y  and   determination   of  Dr.  Haves. 


1  J 


;ss. 

IS    the   li;ill-\vil(i 
IVoin  tlu'lr  |nv- 
!,  thiit  the  seven 
llous  u[)titii(le  at 
acli  of  skill  and 
iiii^li  to  thaw  the 
Ihu'cid,  and  tlir 
xy  dispense  with 
it  ill    the   severe 
liter  journeys  of 
uiice ;  an  imffal'e 
new  attiu'hiueiit 
end  hy  (h-awinir 
dl;     I  have  licen 
I  lh)e,  till  I  eoiiM 
and  patience  to 

Oh,  how  elia- 
I 

undue  share  of 
of  the  party  suc- 
l  doji-lines.  lie 
V  after  fouml  an 

V 

d  happily  to  the 

that  any  of  oin' 

the  area  to  tlii' 

organized   foot- 

e  ]}een  traversed 

lidlv  certain  tliat 

,'11  wilh  their  aiil. 

Ml   of  Or.  Hayes. 


(■  A  i'i;s    L  i;i  1)  V     A  N  1)    r  k  a  /  k  n. 


Ji-JO 


)f  h 


Willi 


Godfi 


and  the  en(hirauee  oi  liis  partner,  >villiain  Uodirey. 
The  latitude  hy  ohservation  was  TD*^  4"/  N.,  the  longi- 
tude li!^°  {"2'  W.  Tlie  coast  here  trended  more  to  tin; 
westward  than  it  had  done.  Tt  was  sighted  for  thirty 
miles  to  the  northward  and  eastwai-d.  This  was  the 
ciihniuating  point  of  his  survey,  heyond  which  his 
ohsei'vations  did  not  extend.  Two  large  headlands, 
Capes  Joseph  Leidy  and  John  Fra'/er,  indicate  it. 

The  cliirs  were  of  mingled  limestone  and  sandstone, 
eorroponding  to  those  on  the  sonthern  side  of  Peahody 
Ikiv.  To  the  north  they  exceeded  two  thousand  feet 
in  height,  wdiile  to  the  southward  thev  diminished  to 
twelve  hundred.  The  ice-foot  varied  from  fifty  to  one 
hundred  and  fiftv  feet  in  width,  and  stood  out  auainst 
the  dark  dehris  thrown  down  by  the  clilfs  in  a  clean 
naked  shelf  of  dazzling  white. 

The  party  spent  the  28th  in  mending  the  sledge, 
which  was  compU'tely  broken,  and  feeding  up  their 
(logs  for  a  renewal  of  the  journey.  But,  their  [)ro- 
visions  being  limited,  Dr.  Hayes  did  not  deem  him- 
self justified  in  continuing  to  the  north.  He  deter- 
niint'd  to  follow  and  survey  the  coast  toward  Cape 
Sahiiie. 

His  pemmican  was  reduced  to  eighteen  pounds ; 
thei'e  was  apparently  no  hope  of  deriving  resources 
from  the  hunt;  and  the  coasts  were  even  more  covered 
with  snow  than  those  he  had  left  on  the  southern  side. 
His  return  was  a  thing  of  necessity. 

The  course  of  the  party  to  the  westward  along  the 
land-iee  was  interrupted  by  a  large  indentation,  which 


I 


i     J 


I  !' 


il^, 


^i... 


■  !  'I 


1    I' 


l! 


I; , 


f 

r 

1 , 

ri! 

^1  ' 

'■ 

.(■'■>. 


*'!•• 


204 


DOIMMX      15  A  Y 


they  had  soon  and  charted  while  appi*oaeliin<:'  the 
coast.  It  is  the  same  which  I  surveyed  in  April, 
1855,  and  which  now  bears  the  name  of  the  Socrotarv 
of  the  Navy,  Mr.  Dobbin.  A  sketch  which  I  made  of 
it  gives   an   idea  of  the   appearance  of  the   Ijay  and 


DOBBIN       BAY. 


of  two  isLands  which  Dr.  Hayes  discovered  near  h 
entrance.  He  saw  also  on  its  southwestern  side  u 
lofty  pyramid,  truncated  at  its  summit,  which  corre- 
sponded both  in  its  bearings  and  position  with  the 
survey  of  my  April  journey.  I  ajjpend  a  sketcli  of 
this  interesting  landmark. 

Tiie  latter  portion  of  Dr.  Hayes's  journey  was  full 


I  ■■  15 


h 


[)proacliing  the 
•eyed  in  A[)nl. 
)f  the  Socivtarv 
khich  I  made  of 
A'  the  l)av  ami 


FLKTCIIER      WEBSTKK      II  K  A  D  L  A  \  D. 


•J.JO 


of  incidont.  The  land-ico  was  travelled  for  a  wliile  at 
till'  rate  of  five  or  six  miles  an  honr;  hut,  after  erossing 
Dobhin  Bay,  the  snows  were  an  unexpeeted  inipedi- 
iiu'iit,  and  the  ice-foot  was  so  elouiivd  that  they  made 
liiit  fifteen  miles  from  camp  to  camp  on  the  Hoes.     After 


,1 


i! 


Jl||. 


I  ! 


:'i 


■p 


! 


m 


:4 


i. 


FLETCHER      WEI',  STER       HEADLAND. 


covered  near  \U 

iwestern   side  ii 

nit,  which  corre- 

osition  with  the 

3nd  a  sketcli  of 


)e 


journey  was  full 


fixing  the  position  of  Cape  Sahine,  and  connecting  it 
with  the  newly-discovered  coast-line  to  the  north  and 
east,  he  prepared  to  cross  the  hay  farther  to  the  south. 
Most  providentially  they  found  this  passage  free 
from  hergs;  but  their  provisions  were  nearly  gone,  a-id 
tlicir  dogs  were  exhausted.  They  threw  away  their 
sleeping-bags,  which  were  of  reindeer-skin  and  weighed 


i( 


II  i, 


i '!.? 


: 


j'lM^  i 


% 


*  I 


I :. 


1 


250 


P  E  T  K  U      V  one  K      H  A  Y, 


about  twt'lvo  pounds  OiU-li,  juul  abiuidouod  lu'sidos 
clotliing  enough  to  make  up  a  reduction  in  weiuht  of 
nearly  lil'ty  pounds.  With  their  k)ad  so  lightened,  tla-v 
were  enabled  to  make  good  the  crossing  of  the  l)a\. 
They  landed  at  Peter  Force  Bay,  and  reached  the  brin 
on  the  1st  of  June. 

This  journey  connected  the  northern  coast  with  the 
survey  of  my  predecessor;  but  it  disclosed  no  chaiiiicl 
or  any  form  of  exit  from  this  bay. 

It  convinced  me,  however,  that  such  a  channel  must 
exist;  for  this  great  curve  could  be  no  cul-de-sac.  Even 
were  mv  observations  since  mv  hrst  fall  iounicv  dt 
September,  185.'),  not  decisive  on  this  head,  the  gciu'ial 
movement  of  the  icebergs,  the  character  of  the  tides. 
and  the  equally  sure  analogies  of  pln'sical  geograpliv. 
would  point  unmistakably  to  such  a  conclusion. 

To  verily  it.  I  at  once  commenced  the  organ! /at ion 
of  a  doul)le  party.  This,  Avhich  is  called  in  my  ficpDit 
the  Northeast  Party,  was  to  be  assisted  by  dogs,  l)iit 
was  to  l)e  subsisted  as  far  as  the  Creat  Cdacier  by  pro- 
visions carried  by  a  foot-party  in  advance. 

For  the  ct)ntinuation  of  my  plans  I  again  refer  to 
mv  iournal. 

••June  2.  Fridav. — There  is  still  this  hundred  mik's 
wantinii'  to  the  northwest  to  coni'Jete  our  entire  circuit 
of  this  frozen  water.  This  is  to  bo  the  field  for  our 
next  party,  I  am  at  some  loss  how  to  organize  it:  for 
mvself.  I  am  down  with  scurvv.  Dr,  lla\es  is  just 
from  the  field,  worn  out  and  snow-blind.  If  is  health- 
roll  makes  a  sorry  parade.     It  runs  thus: — 


■4 


mloiR'd  lu'siiU'v 
)ii  in  Nvc'iulit  of 
liglitoiiod,  {\\v\ 
ing  ol'  tlu'  Iniy. 
eachod  the  bri;: 


I  (.'oast  \vitli  till' 
jsed  lu)  flianiu'l 

a  c'liaiiiu'l  mibt 
'ul-de-sac.    Kvcn 
fall    iounu'v  of 
load,  the  liviK'val 
tor  of  the  tklcs, 
■sical  geography. 
mclnsion. 
the  organi/ation 
h1  in  my  r\eport 
:ed  by  dogs.  l)ut 
Cdaeiev  hy  pio- 
mee. 
I  again  refer  to 

s  hnndretl  mik's 
onr  entire  circuit 
the  field  for  our 
o  organize  it;  tor 
r.  Haves  is  just 
id.  Tlis  health- 
lus: — 


N  E  w     r  A  U  T  1  K  s.  257 

Mr.  Brooks Unhealod  stump. 

Mr.  Wn^oN do. 

Mr.  Sontao Down  with  scurvy 

Mr.  Uonsall Scurvy  kucc,  hut  mciidiii^. 

Mr.  I'ktkrsen (li'iieral  scurvy. 

Mr.  G oodfellow Scurvy. 

Mr.  OhlsexN Well. 

Mr.  McGary Well. 

Crnr. 

AVjlliam  Morton Nearly  recovered. 

Thomas  TT ickey Wi^ll. 

( i  EOROE   WUIITLE Scurvv. 

John   Hlake St-urvy. 

Hans  Cuisti an Well. 

Georoe  Riley Sound. 

CiKOROE  Stephenson Scurvy  from  last  journey. 

William  Godfrey Snow-blind. 

'•June  ?),  Saturday. — MeGary,  Boiisall,  Tliekey,  and 
Riley  were  detailed  for  the  first  sjoetion  of  the  new- 
parties:  they  will  he  aceonipanied  by  Morton,  who  has 
orders  to  keep  himself  as  fresh  as  possible,  so  as  to 
enter  on  his  own  line  of  search  to  the  greatest  possible 
advantage.  I  keep  Hans  a  while  to  recruit  the  dogs, 
and  do  the  hunting  and  locomotion  generallv  I'or  the 
jostof  us;  but  I  shall  soon  let  him  follow,  niiless  things 
grow  so  much  worse  on  board  ;is  to  make  it  impossible. 

"They  start  liu'ht,  with  a  lariic  thirteen-feet  sledue. 
arranu'ed  with  broad  runners  on  accomit  of  the  snow, 
and  are  to  pursue  my  own  last  track,  feeding  at  th<' 
caches  Avhich  I  deposited,  and  aiming  directly  for  the 
glacier-barrier  on  the  Greenland  side.      Here,  sustained 

Vol..  I.— 17 


j     i 

( 

1 

i.!^ 

)  ■ 

\ 

,    1 

I: 

■ 

1 
i 

■ 

i  . 


,iM 


I 


'i^'i'^li'l  I  n 


1  . 

i 


«!       '■ 

i 

M       ' 

'1. 

-f- 

■■ 

^t' 

I: 

< 

1' 

i  • 

I 

t-     il 

«  '     » 

I 

■I  \  ' 

i    , 

)■    ■ 

f 

ii 

H^ 

i 


B 


'I    !         ) 


I:     '■- 


258 


THEIR     ORDER  S. 


as  I  hope  by  the  reiiintints  of  the  great  cache  of  last 
fall,  they  Avill  survey  and  attempt  to  scale  the  ice,  tu 
look  into  the  interior  of  the  great  mer  de  (jlnce. 

"My  notion  is,  that  the  drift  to  the  southward  lioth 
of  berg  and  Hoe,  not  being  reinforced  from  the  glacier. 

* 

may  leave  an  interval  of  smooth  frozen  ice;  but,  iftlii^ 
route  should  fail,  there  ought  still  to  be  a  chance  l)v 
sheering  to  the  southward  and  "westward  and  l(H)kiii<r 
out  for  openings  among  the  hummo(;ks. 

"I  am  intensely  anxious  that  this  party  should  suc- 
ceed: it  is  my  last  throw.  They  have  all  my^iL'^vs. 
and  I  believe  they  Avill  carry  them  out  unless  overruled 
by  a  higher  Power. 

"  Their  orders  are,  to  carry  the  sledge  forward  as  far 
as  the  base  of  the  Great  Glacier,  and  fdi  up  their  pio- 
visions  from  the  cache  of  my  own  party  of  last  Mav, 
Hans  will  then  join  them  with  the  dogs;  and,  wliilf 
McGary  and  three  men  attempt  to  scale  and  survey 
the  glacier,  Morton  and  Hans  will  push  to  the  north 
across  the  bay  with  the  dog-sledge,  and  advance  along 
the  more  distant  coast.  Both  divisions  are  provided 
with  clampers,  to  steady  them  and  their  sledges  on  the 
irregular  ice-surfaces;  but  I  am  not  without  apprehen- 
sions that,  with  all  their  efforts,  the  glacier  cannot  be 
surmounted. 

"In  this  event,  the  main  reliance  must  be  on  Mr. 
Morton:  he  takes  Avitli  him  a  sextant,  artificijd  horizon. 
and  pocket  chronometer,  and  has  intelligence,  courage. 
and  the  spirit  of  endurance,  in  full  measure.  He  i; 
withal  a  long-tried  and  trustworthy  follower. 


it  caclie  of  last 
icale  the  ieo,  to 
Je  (jhwe. 
^outlnviivd  1)()th 
roiu  the  iilacicr. 
.  ice;  but,  \U\\\< 
bo  a  cluince  l)y 
ard  aiul  looking' 

3. 

party  slionld  mic- 
ve  all  my  ^  lows. 
L  unless  ovemik-d 

lo-c  forward  as  fur 
fdl  up  their  pro- 
lartv  uf  last  May. 
dogs;  and,  Avhik 
i^cale  and  survey 
)ush  to  the  nortli 
md  advance  iiluiii: 
^ions  are  provided 
heir  sledges  on  tlie 
without  apprehen- 
odacicr  cainiot  be 

■c  must  he  on  Mr. 
it,  artificial  horizon. 

telligence,  courage. 
U  measure.    Ih"  i^ 

follower. 


\ 


PROGRESS     OF     SEASON. 


200 


'•.Time  5,  Monday. — The  last  pnrty  are  off:  tliey  left 
vesterdav  at  2  P.  M.  I  can  do  nothing  nioiv  hut  await 
tlie  ice-changes  that  are  to  determine  for  us  our  libera- 
tion or  continued  impris(mment. 

"The  sun  is  .'-liiniug  ])ra\-ely,  and  the  temperature 
feels  like  a  home  summer. 

"A  Sandcrlinr),  the  second  migratory  land-hird  we 
have  seen,  came  to  our  brig  to-day,  —  and  is  now  a 
s])ecimen. 

"June  0,  Tuesday. — We  are  a  parcel  of  sick  men, 
aflectiug  to  keep  ship  till  our  coun^ades  get  l)ack. 
Except  Mr.  Ohlsen  and  George  Whipple,  there  is  not  a 
sound  man  among  us.  Thus  wearily  in  our  Castle  of 
Indolence,  for  'labor  dire  it  was,  and  weary  woe,'  we 
have  been  watching  the  changing  days,  and  noting 
bird  and  insect  and  vegetable,  as  it  tells  us  of  the 
coming  summer.  One  fly  buzzed  around  William  God- 
frey's head  to-ilay, — he  could  not  tell  what  the  species 
was;  and  Mr.  Petersen  brought  in  a  cocoon  from  which 
the  irrub  had  eaten  its  wav  to  li])ertv.  Hans  dves 
us  a  seal  almost  daily,  and  for  a  passing  luxury  we 
have  ptarmigan  and  hare.  The  little  snow-birds  have 
crowded  to  Butler  Island,  and  their  songs  penetrate 
the  cracks  of  our  rude  housing.  Another  snipe  too 
was  mercilessly  shot  the  very  day  of  his  arrival. 

''The  andromeda  shows  green  under  its  rusty  winter- 
dried  stems;  the  wdllows  are  sappy  and  pufhng,  their 
catskins  of  last  year  dropping  off.  Draba,  lichens, 
and  stellaria,  can  be  detected  by  an  eye  accustomed  to 
this  dormant  vegetation,  iind  the  stonecrops  are  really 


•  I 


r^rrrr 

i  '    ,| 

i' 

i  •'      it 

1 

I     I 


.1 


I  'I!' 


'iu: 


\4n 


I 


\:\    ! 


IrV 


'    ^ 


200 


THE     SEA  L. 


groeii  and  juicy  in  their  centres:  all  this  niider  tin; 
snow.  So  we  have  assurance  that  sunnner  is  coniini.; 
thoui^h  our  tide-hole  freezes  every  night  jdongside,  uiid 
the  ice-lloe  seems  to  he  as  last  as  ever. 

"June  8,  Thursday. — Hans  hrings  us  in  to-dnv  a 
couple  of  seal :  all  of  them  as  yet  are  of  the  VunvAi 
or  llis[)i(l  species.  The  llesh  of  this  seal  is  eaten  uni- 
versally  hy  the  Danes  „*'  Greenhind,  and  is  almost  the 
stajde  diet  of  the  Esipiimaux,  When  raw,  it  lias  a 
llahhy  look,  more  like  coaguhited  blood  than  nuiscular 
fibre:  cooking  gives  it  a  dark  so()t-{M)lor.  It  is  rlosc- 
grained,  but  soft  and  tender,  with  a  ilavor  of  lamp- 
oil — a  mere  ,s<)iip<j(m,  however,  for  the  blub^'er,  avIhh 
fresh,  is  at  this  season  sweet  and  delicious. 

"  The  seal  are  shot  lying  hy  their  ailuh  or  breath- 
ing-holes. As  the  season  draws  near  niidsuiiiint'r, 
they  are  more  iipproachable ;  their  eyes  being  so  con. 
gested  by  the  glare  of  the  sun  that  they  are  sonictiiiies 
nearly  blind.  Strange  to  say,  a  few  hours'  exposure 
of  a  recently-killed  iinimal  to  the  sun  blisters  ami 
destroys  the  hide ;  or,  as  the  sealers  say,  cooks  it, 
We  have  lost  sevend  skins  in  this  way.  Each  si'al 
yields  a  liberal  su})ply  of  oil,  the  average  thus  I'ai 
being  five  gallons  each." 

Besides  the  Hispid  seal,  the  only  species  wliicli 
visited  Rensselaer  Harbor  was  the  PJioca  Inirhalti,  tiie 
largo  bearded  seal,  or  ii.stik  of  the  Esquimaux.  I  liave 
measured  these  ten  feet  in  length  and  eiiilit  in  circum- 
ference,  of  such  unwieldy  bulk  as  not  unfrecpicntly  to 
be  mistidven  for  the  walrus. 


i 


1  this  under  tlid 
uiuncr  is  coininu'; 
lit  Jilongsido,  uiid 

!  us  in  to-(liiy  a 
iro  of  the  liouiili 

seal  is  eaten  uui- 
[ind  is  ahnost  tliu 
en  i-aw,  it  has  a 
lod  than  nnisciilar 
()h)r.  It  is  t'losc- 
a  ihivor  of  lamp- 
lie  blub^'er,  -wIr'H 
eious. 

r  ailiilk'  or  brcatli- 
fiear  inidsuiniiicr, 
yes  being  so  coii- 
ley  are  sonietiiiu's 
V  hours'  exposure 

sun  blisters  ami 
jrs   say,   cooks  it. 

^vay.     Each  seal 

average   thus  far 

ly  species  which 
'^Jioca  harhaUi,  the 
quiinaux.  I  have 
d  eight  in  ciivum- 
.)t  unlVe(|neiitly  to 


TII  i:      X  KTS  I  K      A  N'  0     US  V  K. 


2()l 


5  The  Netsik  will  not  perCornt*'  ic(^  of  more  tlnm  one 

season's  growth,  and  are  looked  Tor,  therefore,  where 
there  was  o{)en  water  th(>  prexious  yeiir.  Ihit  the 
bearded  seals  havi'  no  ntliil:.      They  depend   for  respi- 


ration u[)()n  the  accidental  chasms  in  the  ice,  and  are 
found  wherever  the  bergs  or  lloes  have  been  in  motion. 
Tlie\'  !ire  thus  more  diffused  in  their  range  than  their 
suii-hasking  little  brethren,  who  crowd  together  in  com- 
iiiunities,  and  in  some  idaces  absoliitcdv  throu'j;  the 
level   ices. 

The  Usui-  appears  a  little  later  than  the  X>fsih\ 
and  his  coming  is  looked  for  anxiously  by  the  Ksqui- 
iiianx.  The  lines,  alhrii<il\  which  are  made  from  his 
skin,  are  the  lightest  and  strongest  and  most  dural)le 
of  any  in  use.  They  are  prized  by  the  hunters  in 
their  contests  with  the  walrus. 

To  o])tain  the  atlunak  in  full  perfection,  the  ani- 
mal is  skinned  in  a  s[)iral,  so  as  to  give  a  eontinious 
coil  from  head  to  tail.  This  is  carefully  chewed  ])y 
the  teeth  of  the  matrons,  and,  after  being  w(dl  greased 
with  the  burnt  oil  of  their  lamps,  is  hung  up  in  their 
huts  to  season.  At  the  time  referred  to  in  my  journal, 
Aiioatok  was  completely  festooned  with  them. 

On  one  occasion,  while  working  my^  way  toward  the 
Esfpiimaux  huts,  I  saw  a  large  Usah  basking  asleep 
u[)on  the  ice.  Taking  off  my  shoes,  I  commenced  a 
somewhat  refrigerating  process  of  stalking,  lying  upon 
my  belly,  and  crawling  along  step  by  step  behind  tlie 
little  knobs  of  lloe.  At  last,  when  I  was  within  long 
rille-shot,  the  animal  gave  a  sluggish  roll  to  one  side, 


(  !l 


'■:>,,  ■- 


'  li 


i  II       IN 


II  !:  ! 


,|- 


n 


f 


j'i"!    : 


%-':l 


i  ■ 


f      ' 


I  . 


i^!' 


U 


202 


A     U  I  V  A  I.     SK  A  1,-11  r  \  T  i:  |{. 


and  suddenly  lifted  his  liejid.  The  iiioveiiK-iil 
evidently  iiide[)ei»deiit  of  me.  Tor  lie  striiiiied  Ins  n 
in  n(>Mrly  the  <)i)[K)site  direction.  'I'lien,  I'or  th 
time,  I  ionnd  that  [  had  a  rival  >;eal-lmntei'  in  a  1; 
hour,  who  was,  on  his  helly  like  nuself.  waitiii" 


\V;i> 


re 


e    llivf 


I :(' 


\vitti 


;ii|i!''>ii<'ll>iillpil||i|||l, 


'^!!!'f'^!!yi'Vi|, 


THE      ATLUK,      OR      SEAL-HOLE. 


commendable  patience  and  cold  feet  for  a  chance  of 
nearer  approach. 

What  should  I  do? — the  bear  was  doubtless  worth 
more  to  me  than  the  seal :  but  the  seal  was  now  within 
shot,  and  the  bear  "  a  bird  in  the  bu.sh."  Besides, 
my  bullet  once  invested  in  the  eal  would  leave  me 
defenceless.     I  might  be  giving  a  dinner  to  the  bear 


luovcnicnl   wns 
itriiiiu'd  Ills  link 

UMl.    lor    llir    I'llvt 

luuitiM-  in  ii  liiiuv 
jclf,  wnitiii'i  wiili 


°^,^ir»  Iki 


.._jj*» 


S»(%*i--J 


t  for  ti  chance  uf 

s  doubtless  wcrtli 
i\l  Avas  now  witliin 
>  ])iisli."  BcsicH 
I  would  leave  mo 
inner  to  the  bear 


OUR     K  N  C  0  U  N  T  E  U. 


'JO; 


aiit 


1  savini!;  mvself  for  his  di-Hscir-t.  These  me(litatioiis 
were  soon  hroMj^ht  to  a  close;  Tor  ;i  second  niovenieiit 
of  the  seal  so  aroused  my  iuuilcr's  instincts  tliat  I 
niilii'd  the  triLi';:,'er.  My  cap  a'  >ne  e\[)lodcd.  Instantly, 
with  a  llonnderinti;  splasli,  thi  seal  desciMuhd  into  the 
det'p,  and  the  hear,  with  tinve  cr  (our  rapid  h-aps, 
stood  disconsolately  hy  the  place  of  his  descent.  For 
a  single  nioinetit  wo  stared  each  other  in  the  lace,  and 
llicn,  with  that  discretion  which  is  the  better  part  of 
valor,  the  bear  ran  ofl'  in  one  direction,  and  I  followed 
his  e\iun[)le  in  the  other. 

The  generally-receivecl  idea  of  the  Polar  bear 
battling  with  the  walrus  meets  little  favor  among 
the  l]s(piiiuaux  of  Smith's  Straits.  My  own  expe- 
rience is  directly  adverse  to  the  truth  of  the  story. 
The  walrus  is  never  out  of  reach  of  Neater,  and,  in 
his  peculiar  element,  is  without  a,  rival.  1  have  seen 
the  bear  follow  the  nssuk  by  diving;  but  tlu^  tough 
hide  and  great  power  of  the  walrus  forbid  such  an 
attack. 

"June  9,  Friday. — To-day  I  was  able  to  walk  out 
upon  the  tloe  for  the  first  time.  My  steps  were 
turned  to  the  observatory,  where,  close  beside  the 
cofiins  of  Baker  and  Scliul)ert,  Sontag  was  at  w(n-k. 
with  the  nnifilar,  correcting  the  winter  distur])ances. 
Our  local  deviation  seems  to  have  corrected  itself: 
the  iron  in  our  comfortless  little  cell  seems  U)  have 
been  so  distributed  that  our  results  were  not  aflected 
by  it. 

"I  was  very  much  struck  by  the  condition  of  the 


!Jlli 


\'{i 


i 


W 


.1 


ii 


2r..j 


ciiANr,  K    IN'    Tin;    im.ok, 


y?'1 


liiil:!' 


I  ■    I 


hiif'  ■ 


fl(K'-Ico.     llitlicrto   T   liMNc   ht'cn    <l('j)(Mi(l(Mit    iijxm  il. 


\V(  irl 


nccoiints  of  mv  mcssniiitcs.  iiiid  hclicvcd  tliut  tlic 

of  tliuw  was  'fi^n'iuii  on   willi  oxtrcmo   rapidity.     TIkv 


are   mis 


tal> 


en 


MC 


lavc  a 


lat 


o   season. 


Tl 


IC     1('('-1( 


Kit 


lias  not  materially  cliatii^cHl  eitlicr  in  Invadth  or  Icvd 
and  its  base  has  Ikhmi  liardly  alfeetcd  at  all,  except  hv 
the  overllow  of  the  tides.  T\w  floe,  thoui^'i  imd,!.. 
going  the  ordinary  molecular  changes  which  accom. 
pany  elevation  of  temperature,  shows  less  siuratc. 
change  than  the  Lancaster  Soiuid  ices  in  earlv  Miiv 
All  this,  but  especially  the  condition  of  the  ice-foot, 
warns  mo  to  prepare  for  tlu^  contingency  of  not  csoah. 
ing.  It  is  a  momentous  warning.  We  have  no  coal 
for  !i  second  Avinter  here ;  our  stock  of  fresh  provisions 
is  utterly  exhausted;  and  our  sick  need  cluuiiio,  as 
essential  to  their  recovery. 

"  The  willows  are  tolerably  forw  -rd  on  Butler  Island, 
Poor,  stunted  crawlers,  they  show  their  expanded  leaf- 
lets  against  the  gray  rocks.  Among  these  was  tlio 
Bear  berry,  (/iS'.  wra  ?Ar.s7.-)  knowing  its  reputation  ^vitli 
the  Esquimaux  to  the  sonth  as  a  remedy  for  scurvv.  I 
gleaned  leaves  enough  for  a  few  scanty  moiitlifuls. 
The  lichens  are  very  conspicnous ;  bnt  the  mosses  and 
grasses  and  heaths  have  not  yet  made  their  appearance 
in  the  littl(}  valley  between  the  rocks." 


LOE. 

»('H(l(Mit  u|>()ii  till. 
Vi'd  that  the  \\^^\\ 
^  rapidity.  Tlicv 
loii.  Tlio  icc-ludt 
L  })iva(ltli  or  level, 
.  at  all,  except  liv 
)0,  tii()ii<:'i  iiiidcr. 
]^os  which  Mccoiii. 
ows  less  siirtiKv. 
?es  ill  (Mi'ly  Miiv, 
ni  of  the  ice-t(i{)t, 
'iioy  of  not  csoaii- 
\Ve  havo  no  oohI 
)f  frosh  pro\isions 
need  change,  as 

.  on  Butler  Island, 
eir  expanded  leaf- 
ig  these  WHS  the 
s  reputation  Avitli 
nedy  fur  seurvv.  I 
scanty  nioiithruls. 
at  tlie  mosses  and 
their  appearance 


i 


DflAnOiNG      SEAL 


4 


CilAPTKU   XXI. 

PROGRESS    OP    SEASON  —  I'LAXTS    IN    WINTKIl  —  IIIRDS    RETURNING  — 
COCIILEAUIA  —  TIIK    PLANTS. 

'sTuxE  10,  Saturday. — Hans  was  ordered  yesterday 
to  hunt  in  the  direction  of  the  Es(juiinaux  huts,  in  the 
hope  of  determining  the  position  of  the  o\)vn  water. 
He  did  not  return  last  night ;  ])ut  Dr.  Hayes  and  Mr. 
Ohlscn,  who  were  sent  after  liiin  this  morning  with 
the  dog-sledge,  found  the  hardy  savage  fast  asleep  not 

2G5 


J!' 


f 
u 


fj'i 


i< 


■  i 


fii 

:i  <  „ 


i'' 


tfii 


:   .f 

t      I 

I    i 

1       ; 

'         ^ 

1 

,  ?i 


%  ■  I 


II 

J 

!      1         i 

11 

fi    ■■    1 

I 

i    ^    '''  i 

';      1      ;:     1 

1 

i       ,:,      '',il 

1 

1     f[! 

I 

''.iii'i 

l  ±, 

■* 


]     I 


" ) ; ' 


i''  '\ 


26G 


PROGRESS     OF     SEASON. 


five  miles  from  tlie  l)rig.  Alongside  of  him  was  a 
large  rsuk  or  bearded  seal,  (P.  harhata,)  shot,  as  usual. 
in  the  head.  lie  had  dragged  it  for  seven  hours  over 
the  ice-foot.  The  dogs  having  now  recruited,  he  startoii 
light  to  join  Morton  jit  the  glacier. 

"June  11,  Sunday. — Another  walk  on  shore  showed 
me  the  andromeda  in  flower,  and  the  saxifrages  and 
carices  green  under  the  dried  tufts  of  last  year.  This 
rapidly-maturing  vegetation  is  of  curious  interest.  The 
andromeda  tetragona  had  advanced  rapidly  toward 
fructification  without  a  corresponding  development  of 
either  stalk  or  leaflet.  In  fiict,  all  the  heaths — and 
there  were  three  species  around  our  harbor — had  a 
thoroughly  moorland  and  stunted  aspect.  Instead  of 
the  graceful  growth  which  should  characterize  them. 
they  showed  only  a  low  scrubby  sod  or  turf,  yet 
studded  with  flowers.  The  spots  from  which  I  ga- 
thered them  were  well  infiltrated  with  melted  snow.'*, 
and  the  rocks  enclosed  them  so  as  to  aid  the  solar 
heat  by  reverberation.  Here,  too,  silene  and  cera- 
thium,  as  well  as  the  characteristic  flower-growths  of 
the  later  summer,  the  poppy,  and  sorrel,  and  saxi- 
frages, were  already  recognisable. 

•'  Few  of  us  at  home  can  realize  the  protecting  value 
of  this  warm  coverlet  of  snoAV.  No  eider-down  in  the 
cradle  of  an  infant  is  tucked  in  more  kindly  than  the 
sleeping-dress  of  winter  about  this  feelde  flower-life. 
The  first  warm  snows  of  August  and  September  falling 
on  a  thickly-pleached  carpet  of  grasses,  heaths,  and 
willows,  enshrine   the   flowery  growths  which  nestle 


;  of  him  -was  a 
r,)  shot,  as  usual. 
4cven  hours  over 
ruited,  he  startoii    f 

I 
on  shore  showed 

le  saxifrages  and 

last  year.     This 

)us  interest.     The 

I    rapidly  toward 

T  development  of 

the  heatlis — and 

ir  harbor — luul  a 

ipect.     Instead  of 

diaracterize  them. 

sod   or   turf,  vot 

rom  which  I  ga- 

:h  melted  snows, 

to  aid  the  solar 

silene    and  cera- 

flower-growths  uf 

sorrel,  and  saxi- 

c  protecting  value 
eider-down  in  the 
e  kindly  than  the 

feel)le  flower-life. 

September  falling 
isses,  heaths,  and 
rtlis  which  nestle 


PLANTS     IX     W'  1  X  T  E  H. 


207 


round  them  in  a  non-conducting  air-chamber;  and,  as 
each  successive  snow  increases  tlie  thickness  of  the 
cover,  we  have,  before  the  intense  cold  of  winter  sets 
iu.  a  light  cellular  bed  covered  by  drift,  six,  eight,  or 
ten  feet  deep,  in  which  the  plant  retains  its  vitality. 
The  frozen  subst)il  does  not  encroach  upon  this  narrow 
zone  of  vegetation.  I  liave  found  in  midwinter,  in  this 
liigli  latitude  of  78°  50',  the  surface  so  nearly  moist  as 
to  1)0  friable  to  the  touch ;  and  upon  the  ice-floes, 
conuiienciug  with  a  surface-temperature  of  — oO°,  I 
found  at  two  feet  deep  a  temperature  of  — 8°,  at  four 
feet  +2°,  and  at  eight  feet  +20°.  This  was  on  the 
hu'gest  of  a  range  of  east  and  west  hunmiock-drifts  in 
the  open  Avay  ofl'  Cape  Staflbrd.  The  glacier  which  we 
became  so  familiar  with  afterward  at  Etah  yields  an 
uninterrupted  stream  throughout  the  year. 

"My  experiments  prove  that  the  conducting  power 
of  the  snow  is  proportioned  to  its  compression  by  winds, 
rains,  drifts,  and  congelation.  The  early  spring  and 
late  fall  and  summer  snows  are  more  cellular  and  less 
condensed  than  the  nearly  impalpable  powder  of 
winter.  The  drifts,  therefore,  that  accumulate  during 
nine  months  of  the  year,  are  dispersed  hi  well-defined 
layers  of  diftering  density.  We  have  first  the  warm 
cellular  snows  of  fall  which  surround  the  plant,  next 
the  fine  impacted  snow-dust  of  winter,  and  above  these 
the  later  humid  deposits  of  the  spring. 

'•It  is  interesting  to  observe  the  effects  of  this  dispo- 
sition of  layers  upon  the  safety  of  the  vegetable  growths 
below  them.     These,  at  least  in  the  earlier  summer, 


I  i 


■■■! 


'11 

i  '    i' 


i:htiiil*' 


■ ;  >i 


n\ 


!• 


•Ml     i~ 


'm  ill 


;.- 


■    ' 


6  '■ 


r! 

:  I 


i    -I 


n 


2G8 


15  I  li  I)  S      1{  E  T  U  R  N  I  N  G. 


occupy  the  inclined  slopes  that  face  the  sun,  and  the 
several  strata  of  snow  take  of  course  the  same  iiu'lina. 
tion.  The  consequence  is  that  as  the  upper  suom-  \< 
dissipated  by  the  early  thawings,  and  sinks  uixiii  tli,. 
more  compact  layer  below,  it  is  to  a  great  extent  ar- 
rested,  and  runs  off  like  rain  irom  a  slope  of  dav 
The  plant  reposes  thus  in  its  cellular  bed,  .uuardiil 
from  the  rush  of  waters,  and  protected  too  I'lom  the 
nightly  frosts  by  the  icy  roof  above  it. 

"June  10,  Friday. — Two  long-tailed  ducks  {JLin],],, 
gJaciaJis)  visited  us,  evidently  seeking  their  bivcdin::. 
grounds.  They  are  beautiful  birds,  either  at  rest  or  on 
the  wing.  AVe  noAV  have  the  snoAV-birds,  the  siiijic. 
the  burgomaster  gull,  and  the  long-tailed  duck,  eiilivni. 
ing  our  solitude;  but  the  snow-birds  are  the  onlvoncs 
in  numbers,  crowding  our  rocky  islands,  and  iiiakiiiL^ 
our  sunny  night-time  musical  with  home-reniembeml 
songs.  Of  each  of  the  others  we  have  but  a  solit;iiT 
pair,  Avho  seem  to  have  left  their  fellows  for  this  far 
northern  mating-ground  in  order  to  live  unmolested, 
I  long  for  specimens ;  but  they  shall  not  be  fired  .it. 

The  ptarmigan  show  a  singular  backwardness  in 
assuming  the  summer  feathering.  The  male  is  still 
entirely  white;  except,  in  some  specimens,  a  few  biwvii 
feathers  on  the  crown  of  the  head.  The  female  h;i< 
made  more  progress,  and  is  now  well  coated  with  liir 
new  plumage,  the  coverts  and  quill-feathers  still  re- 
maining white.  At  Upernavik,  in  lat.  73°,  thej  an 
already  in  full  summer  costume. 

"June    18,    Sunday. — Another   pair    of   loiig-tailwl 


ii 


G. 

the  snn,  ami  tlio 

the  same  iiuima. 

he  upper  snow  is 

d  sinks  upon  tin- 

I,  great  extent  ar- 

a  shipe  of  day, 
.ihir  bed,  guarded 
?ted  too  IVoni  the 
it. 

od  diieks  {JLirihlt 
ng  their  Ixccdiu;- 
inther  at  vest  urun 
iv-lnrds,  the  siiipc. 
liled  duck,  enliven- 
1  are  the  only  ones 
lauds,  and  niiikiii2 

home-reniemberod 
lave  but  a  solitary 

Hows  for  this  far 
live  uiunolested, 

not  be  fired  at. 
backwardness  in 

The   nude   is  still 

imens,  a  few  hxmw 
The  female  luis 

ell  coated  witli  Irt 

ill-feathers  still  re- 
lat.  73°,  they  are 


e 


o 


)air    of   long-tail 


oa 


C  0  C  II  L  !•:  A  K  I  A. 


2GU 


(lucks  passed  over  our  bay,  bound  for  farther  breeiling- 
•Tounils;  we  saw  also  an  ivory-gull  tuid  two  groat 
northern  divers,  i^Colijtnhnn uhirialls^)  the  most  im[)()sing 
birds  of  their  tribe.  These  last  Hew  very  high,  emit- 
ting at  regular  intervals  their  reed-like  'kawk.' 

'•Mr.  Ohlsen  and  Dr.  Hayes  are  oif  on  an  overland 
trani}).  I  sent  them  to  inspect  the  o})en  water  to  the 
M)utlnvard.  The  immovable  state  of  the  ice-foot  gives 
1110  anxiety:  last  year,  a  large  bay  above  us  was  closed 
all  summer;  and  the  land-ice,  as  we  fiiul  it  here,  is  as 
perennial  as  the  glacier. 

"June  20,  Tuesday. — This  morning,  to  my  great  sur- 
prise. Petersen  brought  nic  quite  a  handful  of  scurvy- 
grass.  [C.  fcnci^trata.)  In  my  fall  list  of  the  stinted 
ilora  here,  it  had  quite  escaped  my  notice.  I  felt  grate- 
ful to  him  for  his  kindness,  and,  without  the  affectation 
of  offering  it  to  any  one  else,  ate  it  at  once.  Each  plant 
stood  about  one  inch  high,  the  nuniature  leaves  ex- 
panding throughout  a  little  radius  of  hardly  one  inch 
more.  Yet,  dwarfed  as  it  was,  the  fructifying  process 
was  nearly  perfected;  tlie  buds  already  expanding  and 
nearly  ready  to  burst.  We  found  cochlearia  afterward 
at  Littleton  Island,  but  never  in  any  quantity  north  of 
Cape  Alexander.  Although  the  melted  snows  distil 
freely  over  the  darker  rocks,  (porphyries  and  green- 
stones,) it  is  a  rare  exception  to  note  any  vegetable  dis- 
coloration of  the  surface  beneath.  There  are  few  signs  of 
those  confervaceous  growths  which  are  universal  as  high 
as  r[)ernavik.  The  nature  of  this  narrati\e  does  not 
permit  me  to  indulge  in  nnitters  unconnected  with  my 


!  I 


'    i! 
1,H 


\-m 


\m\ 


^ 


la  i 


\ 


\  M 


:  5i    I 


tt^   . 


n 


I* 


it    ; 


li 


>''i 


'-1 


I'     '  tt  All 

I  if:  I 


rt'     'fill 


(m 


lA 


:r 


III  ?  <  ^f 


II 


II .!'' 


270 


T  II  E      r  L  A  X  T  S. 


story:  I  cite  those  in  ])assing  us  uiiioiig  the  iiKhcalions 
C)i'  our  high  iiortliern  hititiule. 

''June  21,  Wednesday. — A  snow,  moist  and  llakv. 
melting  upon  our  decks,  and  cleaning  up  the  dingv  sur. 
face  ol"  the  great  ice-plain  with  a  new  garment.  ]\\. 
are  at  the  summer  solstice,  the  day  of  greatest  Mw: 
light!  Would  that  the  traditionally-verified  hut  iir. 
tcorologically-disproved  equinoctial  storm  could  break 
upon  us,  to  destroy  the  tenacious  floes! 

"•June  22,  Thursday. — The  ice  chauges  slowlv,  Init 
the  progress  of  vegetation  is  excessively  rapid.  T!r' 
growth  on  the  rocky  group  near  our  hrig  is  surprising:, 

"June  2o,  Friday. — The  eiders  have  come  liack:  ;i 
])air  were  seen  in  the  morninu',  soon  followed  hv  llnir 
ducks  and  drakes.  The  poor  things  seemed  to  )je  seek- 
ing  hreeding-grounds,  but  the  ice  nuist  have  scaivd 
them.     They  were  Hying  southward. 

"June  25,  Siniday. — Walked  on  shore  .  nd  watclml 
the  changes:  andromeda  in  ilowcr,  poppy  and  ruiiiiii- 
cuius  the  same:  saw  two  snipe  and  some  tern. 

"Mr.  Olilsen  returned  from  a  walk  with  Mr.  Peter- 
sen. Tliev  saw  reindeer,  and  brouiiht  back  a  noble 
specimen  of  the  king  duck.  It  was  a  solitary  mule. 
resplendent  with  the  orange,  black,  and  green  of  his 
liead  and  neck. 

"Steidienson  is  better;  and  I  think  that  a  marked 
improvement,  although  a  slow  one,  shows  itself  in  all 
of  us.  I  work  the  men  lightly,  and  allow  plenty  of 
basking  in  the  sun.  In  the  afternoon  we  wal-k  on 
shore,  to  cat  such  succulent  plants  as  we  can  fmd  amid 


;ig  the  in(li('ati()ii< 


moist,  and  liakv. 

up  the  diiijzv  Mir- 
L'W  gariiKMit.  \\\' 
'  of  greatest  solar 
y-verified  l)iit  iiic- 
^torm  could  Ijivak 

-  o   • 

laugos  slowly,  Inn 
ively  rapid.  The 
brig  is  surprisiiij:, 
ave  couie  l)a(.'k:  a 
u  followed  l)v  Iniir 
seeuied  to  Ije  seek- 
must  have  scaml 

iliorc  .  ud  watcliwl 
■)oppy  and  raiiuii- 
some  tern, 
k  with  lAIr.  Peter- 
ulit  baek  a  iiolile 
s  a  solitary  male. 
and  green  of  lii? 


T  11  E     1'  L  A  N  T  S. 


271 


the  snow.  The  pyrola  I  liave  not  found,  nor  the  coeh- 
Icaria,  save  in  one  spot,  and  then  dwarfed.  But  we 
have  the  lychnis,  the  young  sorrel,  the  andronieda,  the 
draba^  and  the  willow-bark;  this  last  an  excerent 
tonio,  and,  in  common  with  all  the  Arctic  vegetable 
astringents,  I  thhdv,  powerfully  antiscorbutic." 


^^irf-^r  ff^ 


I  !  I 


.1 


!■■•  i 


\\  that  a  marked 
shows  itself  in  all 
id  allow^  plenty  of 
noon  we  walk  (Hi 
s  w^e  can  find  a 


i 


S:'i; 


It 


'-.    'I' 


iM 


H  :i 


M 


1   I 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

MR.    BONSALL's    return  —  HIS    STORY  —  THE    BEAR    IN    CAMP  — Ills 
FATE  —  BEARS    AT    SPORT  —  THE    THAWS. 

"June  27,  Tuesday. — McGary  and  Bonsall  aiv  bark 
with  llickey  and  Ilile}^  They  arrived  last  evening: 
all  well,  except  that  the  snow  has  affected  their  eye- 
sight  badly,  owing  to  the  scorbutic  condition  of  their 
systems.  Mr.  McGary  is  entirely  blind,  and  I  fear  will 
be  found  slow  to  cure.  They  have  done  admirably. 
They  bring  back  a  continued  series  of  observatiuib. 
perfectly  well  kept  up,  for  the  further  authentication 
of  our  survey.  They  had  a  good  chronometer,  arti- 
ficial horizon,  and  sextant,  and  their  results  correspond 
entirely  with  those  of  Mr.  Sontag  and  myself  Thuy 
are  connected  too  with  the  station  at  Chimnev  Puick. 
Cape  Thackeray,  which  we  have  established  b}'  theo- 
dolite. I  may  be  satisfied  now  with  our  projection  ot 
the  Greenland  coast.  The  different  localities  to  tin 
south  have  been  referred  to  the  position  of  our  winter 

272 


'i  .  I 


ti 


BEAR    IN    CAMl'  — HIS 
THAWS. 

Boiisall  i\iv  Ijiu'k 
veil  last  eveiiiiij:; 
alTected  thoir  eu- 
condition  of  their 
ucl,  and  I  fear  will 
i  done  adniirablv, 
s  of  observatioiiN 
ler  authentication 
chronometer,  arti- 
results  coi'resi)oiul 
lid  nivself.     Tliey 
at  Chinniey  Rock. 
tal)lished  by  tlioo- 

ouL"  projection  ot 
t  localities  to  tk 

tion  of  our  winter 


M  li.      B  O  N  S  A  L  L   S      II  K  T  U  U  N. 


273 


harbor,  and  this  luis  been  definitely  fixed  by  the  labors 
ot'  Mr.  Sontag,  our  astronomer.  We  have  therefore  not 
uiilv  a  reliable  base,  but  a  set  of  primary  triangula- 
tious  which,  though  limited,  may  support  the  minor 
licld-work  of  our  sextants. 


lournnr  of  'ijlcssrs.  'glt^arij  anb  gonsall. 


"•  They  left  the  brig  on  the  3d,  and  reached  the  Great 
Cdaiier  on  the  15tli,  after  only  twelve  days  of  travel. 
They  showed  great  judgment  in  passing  the  bays;  and, 
although  impeded  by  the  heavy  snows,  would  liave 
bcni  able  to  remain  much  longer  in  the  field,  but  for 
the  destruction  of  our  pr'wision-depots  by  the  bears. 

"1  am  convinced,  however,  that  no  efforts  of  theirs 
could  have  scaled  the  Great  Glacier;  so  that  the  loss 
of  our  provisions,  though  certainly  a  very  serious  mis- 
hap, cannot  be  said  to  have  caused  their  failure.  They 
were  well  provided  with  pointed  staves,  foot-clampers, 
and  other  apparatus  for  climbing  ice ;  but,  from  all 
they  tell  me,  any  attempt  to  scale  this  stupendous 
glacial  mass  would  have  been  madness,  and  I  am  truly 
glad  that  they  desisted  from  it  before  fatal  accident 
befell  them. 

•'  Mr.  Bonsall  is  making  out  his  report  of  the  daily 
operations  of  this  party.  It  seems  that  the  same  heavy 
snow  which  had  so  much  interfered  with  my  travel  in 
April  and  May  still  proved  their  greatest  drawbiick. 
It  was  accumulated  particularly  between  the  headlands 


'it 


I  ,,|| 


I  * 


! 


'■I 


111 


f!       1 
i 


1 

( - 

r 
1 

1     i 

i 

i 
i.4 

?f 


•  .  Hi 


Vol.  I.— 18 


1 1  i 


'il 


t^i 


'-A 


1 
t:!! 


ml 


■'  i  ^ 


ill 


!i: 


<! 


•i"  i 


i 


•I    fv 


f 


I' 


«•>. 


liTl 


BON  S  ALL  S     SToli  Y. 


of  the  I^Ji ys ;  and,  jis  it  wus  already  aH'cetod  by  thi 
warm  siiii,  it  (tailed  lor  great  care  in  crossing  it.  Tin  v 
encountered  drifts  which  were  altogether  inipenetrahli, 
and  in  such  cases  could  only  advance  by  long  circuits, 
after  recoinioitring  from  the  top  of  icebergs. 

"I  have  tried  in  vain  to  find  out  some  good  gcnorul 
rule,  when  travi^rsing  the  ice  near  the  coast,  to  avoiii 
the  accunuilation  of  snows  and  hummock-ridges,  li 
appears  that  the  direct  line  between  headlaiid  aini 
headland  or  ca])e  and  cape  is  nearly  always  olistructcd 
by  broken  ice;  while  in  the  deep  recesses  the  giouinlcil 
ice  is  even  worse.  I  prefer  a  track  across  the  luidill, 
of  the  bay,  outside  of  the  grounded  i(!es  and  iiisidi' ol' 
the  hunnnock-ridges ;  unless,  as  sometimes  liappi'ib, 
the  late  fall-ice  is  to  be  found  extending  in  level  llai> 
outside. 

"'This  is  evidently  the  season  wdien  the  bears  are  in 
most  abundance.  Their  tracks  were  every  whore,  both 
on  shore  and  upon  the  tloes.  One  of  them  had  the 
audacity  to  attempt  intruding  itself  upon  the  partv 
during  one  of  their  halts  upon  the  ice ;  and  Bonsall 
t(dls  a  good  story  of  the  manner  in  which  they  received 
and  returned  his  salutations.  It  was  about  half  an 
liour  after  midnight,  and  they  were  all  sleeping  away 
a  lonii;  day's  fatigue,  when  McGarv  either  heard  or  I'olt.  w. 
he  could  hardly  tell  which,  something  that  was  scratch- 
ing at  the  snow  immediately  by  his  head.  It  waknl 
him  just  enough  to  allow  him  to  recognise  a  liii,;:x' 
animal  actively  engaged  in  reconnoitring  the  circuit  of 
the  tent.     His  startled  outcry  aroused  his  companion- 


I 


Y. 

Iv  alU'ctt'd  l)v  l!ii 
crossing  it.  Tlicv 
tlicr  iin[H'iit'tral)li., 
'('  by  long  rirL'uit>. 
'0  bergs. 

some  good  gcncnil 

the  eotist,  to  avuiil 

niniock-ridgcs.     li 

'en    heiidland   ami 

always  olistructcii 

,esses  the  groundi'i'i 

across  the  iiiiddV 

ices  and  inside-  df 

)nietimes   happcib, 

nding  in  lovol  Hub 


V 


n  the  bears  are  in 
everywhere,  both 
of  them  had  the 

f  npon  the  party 
ice ;    and  Ilonsall 

hich  they  rccoiveJ 
was  about  half  ;tii 
all  sleeping  away 

ither  heard  or  I'elt. 

^•  that  was  scratch- 

s  liead.  It  walu'il 
recognise  a  linge 

tring  the  circuit  of 

sed  his  companion- 


T  M  !•:    n  !•:  a  |{    in     c  a  m  v. 


iiHiiatcs.  but  witlioiit  in  any  degree  disturbing  tlie  un- 
\v(d('i»iiic  visitor;  specially  unwelcome  at  tlial  time  and 
place,  lor  all  tlu'  guns  had  been  left  on  tlie  sledge,  a 
litllt  distance  of!',  and  there  was  not  so  much  as  a 
warKiniA-pole  inside.     There  was  of  course   something 


T  H  t       L-  L  A  R       IN       CAMP 


of  natm'al  confusion  in  the  little  council  of  war.  Tii< 
lu'st  impulse  was  to  make  a  rush  for  the  arms;  but 
this  was  soon  decided  to  be  very  doubtfully  practicable, 
if  at  all.  for  the  bear,  having  satisfied  himself  with  his 
observations  of  the  exterior,  now  presented  himself  at 
tie  tent-opening.  Sundry  volleys  of  lucifer  matches 
and  some  impromptu  tondies  of  newspaper  were  fired 


fil 


i  -'nl 


^  '^ 


1'  iii  I 


J,  I  it 


c  A  c  n  i:    I)  i:s'i  ivo  y  k  d. 


without  aliU'iiiin,!^'  liiiii,  and,  al'tiT  a  little  while,  lie 
platited  hiinscll"  at  the  doorway  jiiid  heguii  inakiiii;'  lii.s 
siippef  upon  the  eareass  of  a  seal  whieh  had  been  shot 
the  day  before. 

"Tom  lliekey  was  the  first  to  bethink  him  of  the 
military  device  of  a  sortie  from  the  postern,  and,  euttiii;^' 
a  hole  with  his  knife,  erawded  out  at  the  rear  of  the 
tout.  Here  he  extricated  a  boatrhook,  that  formed  one 
of  the  supporters  of  the  ridge-polo,  and  made  it  the 
instrument  of  a  right  valorous  attack.  A  blow  well 
administered  on  the  nose  caused  the  animal  to  retreat 
for  the  moment  a  few  [)aces  beyond  the  sledge,  and 
Tom,  calculating  his  distance  nicely,  sprang  forward. 
seized  a  rille,  and  fell  back  in  safety  upon  his  conu-ades. 
In  a  few  seconds  more,  Mr.  Bonsall  had  sent  a  ball 
through  and  through  the  body  of  his  enemy.  I  wu,- 
assured  that  after  this  adventure  the  party  adhered  to 
the  custom  I  had  enjoined,  of  keeping  at  all  times  a 
watch  and  lire-arms  inside  the  camping-tent. 

"The  final  cache,  which  I  relied  so  much  upon,  was 
entirely  destroyed.  It  had  been  built  with  extreme 
care,  of  rocks  which  had  been  assembled  by  very  heavy 
labor,  and  adjusted  with  much  aid  often  from  capstan- 
bars  as  levers.  The  entire  construction  was,  so  far  as 
our  means  permitted,  most  effective  and  resisting, 
Yet  these  tigers  of  the  ice  seemed  to  have  scarcely 
encountered  an  obstacle.  Not  a  morsel  of  pemmicaii 
remained  except  in  the  iron  cases,  which,  being  round 
with  conical  ends,  defied  both  claws  and  teeth.  Thev 
ha,d  rolled  and  pawed  them  in  every  direction,  tossing 


th 
ite 

gn 
ret 


.   \}M 


IJ  E  A  li 


AT      SlMMiT, 


J/  / 


little  while,  lii> 
jjjiii  iiiakiui;'  lii.^ 
1  had  been  shot 

ink  him  of  tlio 
)rn,  and,  cutting' 
tilt'  rear  oi'  the 
that  ibrnied  one 
nd  made  it  the 
.     A  blow  well 
nimal  to  retreat 
the  sledge,  and 
sprang  Ibrwanl. 
lon  his  comrade.-, 
had   sent  n  ball 
i  enemy.     I  ^va^ 
party  adhered  to 
ig  at  all  times  a 
2;- tent. 

muiih  upon,  wa:s 

It  with   extreme 

ed  by  very  heavy 

en  from  capstaii- 

on  was,  so  far  as 

e    and    resisting. 

to  have  scarcely 

t'sel  of  pemmieaii 

lich,  being  round 

md  teeth.     They 

direction,  tossing 


them  about  like  footballs,  although  over  eighty  pouiuls 
ill  weight.  An  alcohol-case,  strongly  iron-bouiul,  wius 
(lashed  into  small  fragments,  and  a,  tin  can  of  li((nor 
mashed  and  twisted  almost  into  a  ball.     The  claws  of 


..*- ,  .^ 


yMt. 


^m^ 


THE       CACHt       [-t-itKO  Y[D. 


the  licast  ha,d  perforated  the  metal,  and  torn  it  uj)  as 
'vitli  a  cold  chisel. 

"They  were  too  dainty  for  salt  meats:  ground  colTec 
they  had  an  evident  reli.di  for:  old  canvas  was  a  favor- 
ite for  some  reason  or  other;  even  our  Ihig.  wliich  had 
heen  reared  'to  take  possession'  of  the  waste,  was 
gnawed  down  to  the  very  staff.  They  had  made  a 
regular  frolic  of  it;  rolling  our  bread-barrels  over  the 


\\ 


V    ! 


u. 


M 


HiJ 


I     ! 


•i     ! 


'I       ,1 


ili 


i'  :  i; 


■  UJ  '  H- 


278 


THK      THAWS. 


ioe-foot  and  into  tlic  lnokcii  (nitsidc  ice;  inid,  iinahlc  to 
masliciitc  our  licav/  liidia-ruhhci-  (dul'i,  tlicv  luid  tiod 
it  u[)  in  iiiiinia,i:iiial)l('  liai'd  knots. 

"McClary  dcscrilu's  llio  whole  area  aroinid  tlx'  caclK 
as  niaikcd  l»y  the  well-worn  })aths  of  these  animals: 
and  an  adjacent  sIojk'  oI'  iee-covered  rock,  with  an 
angle  of  45°,  was  so  worn  and  covered  with  their  hair. 
as  to  suggest  the  idea,  that  they  Inid  Ixmmi  amusing! 
themselves  hy  sliding  down  it  on  their  haunches.  A 
performance,  ))y-tlie-way,  in  which  I  afterward  caught 
them  myself. 

"June  28,  Wechiesday. — TTans  came  uj)  with  the 
party  on  the  17th.  Morton  and  ho  are  still  out.  They 
took  a  day's  rest;  and  then,  'following  the  old  tracks,' 
as  McGary  reports,  'till  they  were  clear  of  the  cracks 
lear  the  islands,  pushed  northward  at  douhle-quick 
time.  When  last  seen,  they  were  hoth  of  them  walk- 
ing, for  the  snow  was  too  soft  and  deej)  for  them  to 
ride  with  their  heavy  load.'  Fine  weather,  but  the  ico 
yields  reluctantly." 

While  thus  watching  the  indications  of  advancing 
summer,  my  mind  turned  anxioush'  to  the  continued 
absence  of  Morton  and  Hans.  We  were  already  beyond 
the  season  when  travel  upon  the  ice  was  considered 
practicable  by  our  English  predecessors  in  Wellington 
Channel,  and,  in  spite  of  the  continued  solidity  around 
us,  it  Avas  unsafe  to  presume  too  much  upon  our  high 
northern  position. 

The  ice,  although  seemingly  as  unbroken  as  ever, 
was  no  longer  fit  for  dog-tra^'cl ;  the  floes  were  co^'ered 


nd,  imaltl*'  to 
lu'V  liinl  tiod 

iiul  tlic  CiU'lic 
K'sc  jiniiuiils; 
(K'k.  witli  :iii 
th  tlicir  linir. 
MM'H  iiniusin;!' 
li!\iiii('b('s.  A 
'VWJird  cnu.Lilit 

up  ^villl  the 
ill  .)nt.  Tli(>y 
ho  old  tviicks; 

of  tlic  (Tiicks 
(lo\d)l('-ilui('k 

)f  thorn  walk- 
p  for  thorn  to 
Lor,  but  tho  ice 


T  II  K     U  K  T  U  U  N. 


27'J 


with  wjitor-podls.  niaiiv  of  whicli  could  not  ho  fordod 
hy  our  toaui;  and,  as  thoso  nndlipliod  witli  tlio  ra[)idly- 
advanciuu-  thaws,  tlioy  uuilod  oiio  with  another, 
cliofpiorinji;  tho  lovol  waste  with  an  interniinahle  i-epo- 
tition  ol'oonlhiont  lakes.  These  wtTo  both  c  ■  .\iMsinj' 
and  danu;orons.     Our  litth'  hri'j  was  alread  thawed 

out  wlioro  hor  sides  eamo  in  contact  witli  !ier  icy  <'ra(no 
as  to  uiake  it  dangerous  to  descend  w  itiiont  a,  j;an| 
and  our  huntin<r  parties  came  back  wet  to  tho  skin. 


;way, 


It   was,   thorol'oro,   with 


no   s 


li"iit 


j^>y 


that  on   the 


?vcning  of  tho  lOth,  while  walkin^^  with  Mr.  Honsall, 
<i  distant  sound  of  do.us  cau.iiiit  my  ear.  Those  faitiiful 
servants  generally  bayed  their  fnll-niouthed  welcome 
iVoin  afar  olV,  hnt  they  always  dasliod  in  with  a  wild 
speed  which  nuide  their  outcry  a  direct  precursor  ol 
their  arrival.  Not  so  these  well-worn  trav(dlers.  Hans 
and  Morton  staggered  beside  tho  limping  dogs,  and 
poor  Jenny  was  riding  as  a  passenger  uj)()n  tho  sledge. 
It  was  many  hours  before  they  shared  the  rest  and  com- 
fort of  our  ship. 


iroken  as  ever, 
s  were  covered 


ti 


I  I 


l!        !: 


i-J' 


-II     .T 


'' 

I    '■  ■ 

i 

, 

A 

;i 

1 

1   ■ 

li. 

■ 

i 

,1,4 

!  ?■ 


M 


■  i 


f 


,'j't 


■  %  ■  :  : 


I  ^fi 


1  iFi' 


IM;  rft 
I      '  y  > 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 

Morton's   return  —  ni8    narrative — peabody    ray — tiiroucjh 

THE  BERGS  —  BRIDQINQ  THE  CHASMS  —  THE  WEST  LAND  —  TUK 
DOGS  IN  FRIGHT  —  OPEN  WATER  —  THE  ICE-FOOT  —  THE  POLAH 
TIDES  —  CAPES  JACKSON  AND  MORRIS  —  THE  CHANNEL  —  FREE  OF 
ICE  —  BIRDS    AND    PLANTS  —  BEAR    AND    CUB  —  THE    HUNT  —  TUK 

DEATH FRANKLIN    AND    LAFAYETTE  —  THE    ANTARCTIC    FLAG  — 

COURSE     OF     TIDES  —  MOUNT      PARRY  —  VICTORtA     AND     ALBEHT 

MOUNTAINS  —  RESUMft THE    BIRDS    APPEAR  —  THE    VEGETATION 

— THE     PETREL  —  CAPE    CONSTITUTION THEORIES    OF     AN     OPKN 

SEA  —  ILLUSORY  DISCOVERIES CHANGES  OF  CLIMATE  —  A  SUG- 
GESTION. 

Mr.  Morton  left  the  brig  with  the  relief  party  of 
McGary  on  the  4th  of  June.  He  took  his  place  at  the 
track-lines  like  the  others ;  but  he  was  ordered  to  avoid 
all  extra  labor,  so  as  to  husband  his  strength  for  the 
final  passage  of  the  ice. 

On  the  15th  he  reached  the  base  of  the  Great  Gla- 
cier, and  on  the  16th  was  joined  by  Hans  with  the 
dogs.  A  single  day  was  given  to  feed  and  refresh  the 
animo.ls,  and  on  the  18th  the  two  companies  parted. 
Morton's  account  I  have  not  felt  myself  at  liberty  to 

280 


PEABODY      BAY. 


281 


alter.     I  p^ive  it  as  n(3arly  as  possible  in  his  own  words, 
without  afTectin2;  aiiv  modification  of  his  style. 


Norton's  |oitrnt]|. 

The  party  left  Cache  Island  at  12.35  A,  m.,  crossinjr 
the  Land-ices  by  portage,  and  going  south  for  about  a 
mile  to  avoid  a  couple  of  bad  seams  caused  by  the 
breakage  of  the  glacier.  Here  Morton  and  Hans  sepa- 
rated from  the  land-party,  and  went  northward,  keep- 
ing parallel  with  the  glacier,  and  from  five  to  seven 
miles  distant.  The  ice  was  free  from  hummocks,  but 
heavily  covered  with  snow,  through  which  they  walked 
knee  deep.  They  camped  about  eight  miles  from  the 
glacier,  at  7.45,  travelling  that  night  about  twenty- 
eight  miles.  Here  a  crack  allowed  them  to  measure 
the  thickness  of  the  ice :  it  was  seven  feet  five  inches. 
The  thermometer  at  6  A.  m.  gave  +28°  for  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air;  29.2  for  the  water. 

They  started  again  at  half-past  nine.  The  ice,  at 
first,  was  very  heavy,  and  they  were  frequently  over 
their  knees  in  the  dry  snow ;  but,  after  crossing  certain 
drifts,  it  became  hard  enough  to  bear  the  sledge,  and 
the  dogs  made  four  miles  an  hour  until  twenty  minutes 
past  four,  when  they  reached  the  middl'!  of  Peabody 
Bay.  They  then  found  themselves  among  the  bergs 
which  on  former  occasions  had  prevented  other  parties 
from  getting  through.  These  were  generally  very 
high,  evidently  newly  separat<}d  from  the  ghicier. 
Their   surfaces  were  fresh   and  glassy,   and  not  like 


M 


.,1 


yi 


^4 


V  i        ! 


;    I 


t< 


¥\ 


t:   1 


I'    ]! 


282 


T  U  R  O  U  G  H      THE     B  E  II  G  S. 


those  generally  met  with  in  Baflin's  Bay, — less  worn, 
and  bluer,  and  looking  in  all  respects  like  the  lace  of 
the  Grand  Glacier.  Many  w^ere  rectangular,  some  of 
them  regular  squares,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  each  way; 
others,  more  than  a  mile  long. 

They  could  not  see  more  than  a  ship's-length  ahead, 
the  icebergs  were  so  unusually  close  together.  Old 
icebergs  bulge  and  tongue  out  below,  and  are  thus  pre- 
vented from  uniting ;  but  these  show^ed  that  they  wT-re 
lately  launched,  for  they  approached  each  other  so 
nearly  that  the  party  were  sometimes  forced  to  squeeze 
through  places  less  than  four  feet  wide,  through  wdiich 
the  dogs  could  just  draw  the  sledge.  Sometimes  they 
could  find  no  passage  between  two  bergs,  the  ice  being 
so  crunched  up  between  them  that  they  could  not  force 
their  way.  Under  these  circumstances,  they  would 
either  haul  the  sledge  over  the  low  tongues  of  the 
berg,  or  retrace  their  steps,  searching  through  the 
drift  for  a  practicable  road. 

This  they  were  not  always  fortunate  in  finding,  and 
it  was  at  best  a  tedious  and  in  some  cases  a  dangerous 
alternative,  for  oftentimes  they  could  not  cross  them; 
and,  when  they  tried  to  double,  the  compass,  thoir 
only  guide,  confused  them  by  its  variation. 

It  took  them  a  lono;  while  to  ffet  throuu'h  into 
smoother  ice.  A  tolerably  wide  passage  would  appear 
between  two  bergs,  which  they  would  gladly  follow; 
then  a  narrower  one;  then  no  opening  in  front,  but 
one  to  the  side.  Following  that  a  little  distance,  a 
blank  ice-cliff  would  close  the  way  altogether,  and  they 


i:  I'tai  n 


.N4,. 


B  R  1  J)  G  1  N  G     THE 


11  A  S  M  S. 


•283 


li  ir'1 


— less  worn, 
d  the  lace  of 
liar,  some  of 
e  each  way; 


iength  ahciul 


gether 


are  thus  pre- 
[lat  they  were 
ach   other   so 
jed  to  squeeze 
hrough  which 
)metimes  they 
,  the  ice  being 
!0uld  not  force 
?,  they  would 
)ngues  of  the 
through   the 

n  finding,  and 

s  a  dangerous 

t  cross  them; 

iompass,  thoiv 

m. 
through   into 
would  appear 

sladlv  follow; 
in  front,  but 

tie  distance,  a 
ther,  and  they 


were  Ibrced  to  retrace  their  steps  and  begin  again. 
(Jonstantly  balUed,  but,  like  true  fellows,  determined 
to  "go  ahead,"  they  at  last  found  a  lane  some  six  miles 
to  the  west,  which  led  upon  their  right  course.  But 
they  were  from  eight  o'clock  at  night  till  two  or  three 
of  the  next  morning,  puzzling  their  way  out  of  the 
maze,  like  a  blind  man  in  the  streets  of  a  strange  city. 
June  19,  Monday. — At  8.45  a.  m.  they  encamped. 
Morton  then  climbed  a  berg,  in  order  to  select  their 
best  road.  Beyond  some  bergs  he  caught  glimpses  of 
a  great  white  plain,  which  proved  to  be  the  glacier 
seen  far  into  the  interior;  for,  on  getting  up  another 
berg  farther  on,  he  saw  its  face  as  it  fronted  on  the 
bay.  This  was  near  its  northern  end.  It  looked  full 
of  stones  and  earth,  while  large  rocks  projected  out 
fr(jm  it  and  rose  above  it  here  and  there. 

They  rested  till  half-past  ten,  having  walked  all  the 
time  to  spare  the  dogs.  After  starting,  they  went  on 
for  ten  ndles,  but  wqvo  then  arrested  by  wide  seams  in 
the  ice,  bergs,  and  much  broken  ice.  So  they  turned 
about,  and  reached  their  last  camp  by  twelve,  mid- 
night. They  then  went  westward,  and,  after  several 
trials,  made  a  way,  the  dogs  running  well.  It  took 
them  but  two  hours  to  reach  the  better  ice,  for  the 
bergs  were  in  a  narrow  belt. 

The  chasms  between  them  were  sometimes  four  feet 
wide,  with  water  at  the  bottom.  These  they  bridged 
in  our  usual  manner;  that  is  to  say,  they  attacked  the 
nearest  large  hummocks  with  their  axes,  and,  ch()])ping 
them  down,  rolled  the  lieaviest  pie.;es  they  could  move 


(  f 


iLl 


iM^' 


'   t! 


284 


THE      W  E  ST      LAND. 


!   > 


i;  '   i 


I 


?  * 


i 

jl!'         '    '          ' 

I 

1 

i 

11        i'                1 

1 

I  I 

II  1 

if 

) 

1  j     M 

\i.\ 

into  the  fissure,  so  that  they  wedged  each  other  in. 
The}'  then  filled  up  the  spaces  between  the  ))l()cks 
with  smaller  lumps  of  ice  as  well  as  they  could,  and 
so  contrived  a  rough  sort  of  bridge  to  coax  the  dogx 
over.  Such  a  seam  would  take  about  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  fill  up  well  and  cross. 

On  (quitting  the  berg-field,  they  saw  two  dovekies  in  ii 
crack,  Jind  shot  one.  The  other  flew  to  the  northeast. 
Here  they  sighted  the  ri:"thern  shore,  ("  West  Land,") 
mountainous,  rolling,  but  very  distant,  perhaps  fifty  or 
sixty  miles  off.  They  drove  on  over  the  best  ice  they 
had  met  duo  north.  After  passing  about  twelve  miles 
of  glacier,  and  seeing  thirty  of  opposite  shore,  they 
camped  at  7.20  A.  M. 

They  were  now  nearly  abreast  of  the  termination 
of  the  Great  Glacier.  It  was  mixed  with  earth  and 
rocks.  The  snow  sloped  from  the  land  to  the  ice,  and 
the  two  seemed  to  be  mingled  together  for  eight  or  ten 
miles  to  the  north,  when  the  land  became  solid,  and 
the  glacier  was  lost.  The  lieight  of  this  land  seemed 
about  four  hundred  leet,  and  the  glacier  lower. 

June  21,  Wednesday. — They  stood  to  the  north  at 
11.30  P.M.,  and  made  for  wdiat  Morton  thought  a  cape, 
seeing  a  vacancy  between  it  and  the  West  Land.  The 
ice  was  good,  even,  and  free  from  bergs,  only  two  or 
three  being  in  sight.  The  atmosphere  became  thick 
and  misty,  and  the  west  shore,  which  the}^  saw  faintly 
on  Tuesday,  wns  not  visible.  They  could  only  see  the 
cape  for  which  they  steered.  The  cold  was  sensibly 
felt,  a  very  cutting  wind  blowing  N.E.  by  N.     They 


i-'il: 


Tirr:    dogs    i\    fkigiit. 


285 


roiu'licd  tlio  opening  seen  to  the  westward  of  the  cape 
by  Tlmrsday,  7  a.  m.  It  proved  to  be  a  channel ;  lor, 
;is  thcv  moved  on  in  the  mistv  weather,  a  sudden  lift- 
injj;  of  the  fog  showed  them  the  cape  and  the  western 
siiore. 


ENTE.'dNG     ""HE     CM  A  NN  PL -CAPr  i     .\>,iV.'KW     JACKSON     AND     J0Hf4     BARIiOW. 


;•■, 


'Hip. 


■I  M^ . 


The  ice  was  weak  and  rotten,  and  the  do<2:s  beuan 
to  tremble.  Proceeding  at  a  brisk  rate,  they  had  got 
upon  unsafe  ice  before  they  were  aware  of  it.  Theii' 
course  was  at  the  time  nearl}-  up  the  middle  of  th(> 
chiinuel ;  but,  as  soon  as  possible,  they  turned,  and, 
by  a  backward  circuit,  reached  the  shore.  The  dogs, 
as  their  fashion  is,  at  lirst  lay  down  and  refused  to 


.1   II 


■■■  ti- 


\1 


n 


Hl'f 


I  I  lii 


II    i 


,':    ;'. ) 


I '  \ 


i  i 

H 


l'   I 


■I  , 


2SG 


()  I'l:  N     w  A  T  i;  i{. 


procccvl,  tromblin^i^-  violently.  The  only  way  to  in 
(hu'c  the  terrified,  ohstinate  hrutes  to  L|;et  on  was  foi 
TIans  to  go  to  a  wliite-l<M)king  spot  where  the  ice  was 
thicker,  the  soft  stnfl*  looking  dark  ;  then,  calling  the 
dogs  coaxinglv  hv  name,  they  would  crawl  to  him  on 
their  bellies.  So  they  retreated  from  place  to  place, 
until  they  reached  the  firm  ice  they  had  quitted.  A 
half-mile  brought  them  to  comparatively  safe  ice,  a 
mile  more  to  good  ice  aunin. 

In  the  midst  of  this  danger  they  had  during  the  lift- 
ings of  the  log  sighted  open  water,  and  they  now  saw 
it  plainly.  There  was  no  wind  stirring,  and  its  lace 
wjis  perfectly  smooth.  It  was  two  miles  farther  up  tlic 
channel  than  the  firm  ice  to  which  they  had  retreated. 
Urns  could  hardly  believe  it.  But  for  the  birds  that 
were  seen  in  great  numbers,  Morton  says  he  would  not 
have  believed  it  himself. 

The  ice  covered  the  mouth  oi  ihc  channel  like  a 
horseshoe.  One  end  lap[)ed  into  the  west  side  a  con- 
siderable distance  up  the  channel,  the  other  covered 
the  cape  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  so  that  they 
could  not  land  opposite  their  camp,  wdiich  was  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  cape. 

That  night  they  succeeded  in  climbing  on  to  tlu' 
level  by  the  floe-pieces,  and  walked  around  the  turn  of 
the  cape  for  some  distance,  leaving  their  dogs  behind. 
They  found  a  good  ice-foot,  very  wide,  which  extended 
as  far  as  the  cape.  They  saw  a  good  many  birds  on 
the  water,  both  eider-ducks  and  dovekies,  and  the  rocks 
o:i  shore  were  full  of  sea-swallows.     There  was  no  ico. 


'     i 


THE      ICK-FOUT. 


287 


A  fog  coming  on,  they  turned   back  to  whero  the  dogs 
lijid  l)een  left. 

Thej-  started  again  at  11. oO  a.m.  of  the  2lst.  On 
reaching  the  hmd-ice  they  unloaded  and  threw  each 
package  of  provision  from  the  tloe   up  to  the  ice-ibot. 


n 


uring  the  lift- 
:liey  now  saw 
,  and  its  face 
farther  up  the 
had  retreated, 
the  birds  that 
he  ^vouUl  not 

hannel  like  a 
?st  side  a  con- 
other  covtn'cd 
so  that  they 
1  was  about  a 


■-■J  ]\ 

' '-;  '   '' 


MAKING       THE       UAND-lCE,      (CLIMQISGJ 


which  was  eiiiht  or  nine  feet  above  them.  Morion 
then  climbed  up  with  the  aid  of  the  sledge,  which  they 
converted  into  a  ladder  for  the  occasion.  He  tiien 
pulled  the  dogs  up  by  the  lines  fastened  round  their 
bodies,  Hans  lending  a  helping  hand  ami  then  climb- 
ing up  himself.  They  then  drew  up  the  sledge.  The 
water  was  very  deep,  a  stone  the  size  of  Morton's  head 


i    i  ■•■ 


!l         :    .1 


't4 


' 


288 


THE      P  O  L  A  U     TIDE  S. 


■>! 


II 


f    i 

■->■■  I 


'li 


I 

I. 

'I    I 


■if 


I  J 


U 


taking  twcnty-cM'ght  seconds  to  reach  the  bottom,  which 
was  seen  very  clearly. 

As  they  had  noticed  the  night  before,  the  ice-foot 
lost  its  good  character  on  reaching  the  cape,  becoming 
a  mere  narrow  ledge  hugging  the  cliffs,  and  looking  a.s 
if  it  might  crumble  off  altogether  into  the  water  at 
any  moment.  Morton  was  greatly  afraid  there  would 
be  no  hind-ice  there  at  all  when  they  came  back. 
Hans  and  he  thought  they  might  pass  on  by  climbing 
along  the  fjice  of  the  crag ;  in  fact  they  tried  a  path 
about  fifty  feet  high,  but  it  grew  so  narrow  that  they 
saw  they  could  not  get  the  dogs  past  with  their  sledge- 
load  of  provisions.  He  therefore  thought  it  safest  to 
leave  some  food,  that  they  might  not  starve  on  the 
return  in  case  the  ice-foot  should  disappear.  He  ac- 
cordingly cached  enough  provision  to  last  them  back, 
with  four  davs'  do2:-meat. 

At  the  pitch  of  the  cape  the  ice-ledge  was  hardly 
three  feet  Avide ;  and  they  were  obliged  to  unloose  the 
dogs  and  drive  them  forward  alone.  Hans  and  he 
then  tilted  the  sledge  up,  and  succeeded  in  carrying  it 
past  the  narrowest  place.  The  ice-foot  wns  firm  under 
their  tread,  though  it  crumbled  on  the  verge. 

The  tide  was  running  very  fast.  The  pieces  of 
heaviest  draught  floated  by  nearly  as  fast  as  the  ordi- 
nary walk  of  a  man,  and  the  surface-pieces  passed 
them  much  faster,  at  least  four  knots.  On  their 
examination  the  night  before,  the  tide  was  from  the 
north,  running  southward,  carrying  very  little  ice. 
The  ice  which  was  now  moving  so  fast  to  northward 


if 


C  A  I'  K  S     JACKSON      AND     M  ()  U  HI  S. 


289 


seeiiictl  to  be  the  broken  land-iee  around  the  cape,  and 
the  h)()se  edge  of  the  south  ice.  Tlie  thermometer  in 
the  water  gave  +oG°,  seven  degrees  above  the  freezing- 
point  of  sea-water  at  Rensselaer  Harbor. 

They  now  yok(;d  in  the  dogs,  and  set  forward  over 
the  worst  sort  of  mashed  ice  for  three-(piarters  of  a 
mile.  After  passing  the  cape,  they  h)oked  ahead,  and 
saw  nothing  but  open  water.  The  hind  to  tlie  westr 
want  seemed  to  ovorhip  the  hmd  on  whicli  they  stood, 
a  k)ng  distance  ahead :  all  the  space  between  was  open 
water.  After  turning  the  cape, — that  which  is  nuirked 
on  the  chart  as  Cape  Andrew  Jackson. — they  found  a 
iioocl  smooth  ice-foot  in  the  entering  curve  of  a  bav, 
since  named  after  the  great  financier  of  the  American 
Revolution,  Robert  Morris.  It  was  glassy  ice,  and  the 
(logs  ran  on  it  full  speed.  Here  the  sledge  made  at 
least  six  miles  an  hour.  It  was  the  best  day's  travel 
they  made  on  the  journey. 

After  passing  four  bluils  at  the  bottom  and  sides  of 
the  bay,  the  land  grew  lower;  and  presently  a  long  low 
country  opened  on  the  land-ice,  a  wide  plain  between 
large  headlands,  with  rolling  hills  through  it.  A  tlock 
of  Brent  geese  were  coming  down  the  valley  of  this  low 
land,  and  ducks  were  seen  in  crowds  upon  the  open 
water.  When  they  saw  the  geese  first,  they  were  ap 
parently  coming  from  the  eastward;  they  made  a  curve 
out  to  seaward,  and  then,  turning,  flew  far  ahead  over 
the  plain,  until  they  Avere  lost  to  view,  showing  that 
their  destination  was  inland.  The  general  line  of  flight 
of  the  flock  was  to  the  northeast.     Eiders  and  dove- 

Voi,.  I.— 11) 


'^U 


\\ 


.*. 


1  ( 


I ' 


:[  i 


1. 


(  '■ 


290 


T  IJ  E     CHANNEL. 


kios  Avcrc  also  socn;  and  tern  were  very  numerous, 
hundreds  oi'  them  s(|uealing  and  screeching  in  Hocks. 
They  were  so  tjtme  that  they  came  within  a  lew  yards 
of  the  party.  lining  high  overhead,  their  notes  echo- 
ing from  the  rocks,  were  hirge  white  birds,  whicli  they 
took  for  hurgomjisters.  Ivory  gulls  and  moUemokes 
were  seen  fartlier  on.  They  did  not  lose  sight  of  the 
birds  after  this,  as  far  as  they  went.  The  ivory  gulls 
flew  very  high,  but  the  moUemokes  alit,  and  led  on  the 
water,  flying  over  it  well  out  to  sea,  as  we  had  seen 
them  do  in  Baflin's  Bay.  Separate  from  tlii'se  Hew  a 
dingy  bird  unknown  to  Morton.  Never  had  they  seen 
the  birds  so  numerous:  the  water  was  actually  black 
with  dovckies,  and  the  rocks  crowded. ^""^^ 

The  part  of  ho  channel  they  were  now  coasting  was 
narrower,  but  as  they  proceeded  it  seemed  to  widen 
again.  There  was  some  ice  arrested  by  a  bend  of  the 
channel  on  the  eastern  shore;  and,  on  reaching  a  low 
gravel  point,  they  saw  that  a  projection  of  land  shut 
them  in  just  ahead  to  the  north.  Upon  this  ice  nume- 
rous seal  were  basking,  both  the  netsik  nnd  ussuk. 

To  the  left  of  this,  toward  the  West  Land,  the  groat 
channel  (Kennedy  Channel)  of  open  water  continued. 
There  was  broken  ice  floating  in  it,  but  with  passages 
fifteen  miles  in  width  and  perfectly  clear.  The  end  of 
the  point — "Gravel  Point,"  as  Morton  called  it — was 
covered  wdth  hummocks  and  broken  ice  for  about  two 
miles  from  the  water.  This  ice  was  worn  and  full  of 
gravel.  Six  miles  inland,  the  point  was  flanked  by 
mountains. 


■  I 


ry  niinicnuis, 
ing  ill  tlocks. 
1  a  lew  yards 
ir  notes  eelio- 
s,  which  they 

I  iiiolleiuokes 
e  sight  of  the 
he  ivory  gulls 
[Uid  led  on  the 
;  we  had  seen 

II  these  Hew  a 
had  they  seen 
actually  hlack 

w  coasting  was 
^med  to  widen 

a  bend  of  the 
reaching  a  low 
n  of  land  shut 

this  ice  nume- 
and  ussuk. 
Land,  the  great 
atev  continued, 
t  with  passages 
,r.     The  end  of 

called  it— was 

>  for  about  two 
orn  and  full  of 
as   flanked  by 


F  IM:  K     OF     I  ("  !•:. 


201 


A  little  liigher  up,  they  noticed  tliat  the  [)ieces  of  ice 
in  the  luiddle  of  the  channel  were  moving  up.  while 
the  lunii)s  near  shore  were  lloating  down.  The  eliainiel 
was  eoinpletely  l)roken  up,  and  there  woidd  h;iv«'  been 
nodillieult}  in  a  I'rigate  standing  anywhere.     The  little 


APP'IARANCE       OF      CHANNEL. 


brig,  or  "a  fleet  of  her  like,"  could  have  beat  easily  to 
the  northward. 

The  wind  blew  strong  from  the  north,  and  continued 
to  do  so  for  three  days,  sometimes  blowing  a  gale,  and 
very  damp,  the  tops  of  the  hills  becoming  fixed  with 
dark  foggy  clouds.  The  damp  falling  mist  prevented 
their  seeing  any  distance.     Yet  they  saw  no  ice  borne 


» 


j!  ;M 


M 


tfs 


,.  I  >   1 , 


im  '•! 


I/"'1 


1 
1    : 

>• 

■k. 

\ 

ir 


It  ' 


■I;, 

1 1  /li 

(Up 

I 


m'^ 


■■■y^l- 


i 

rJl! 


ifl 


!•:! 


I 


11 


,1 


2U2 


B  I  U  U  S      AM)      1'  L  A  N  T  S. 


down  IVoin  tlic  uortluvjird  (luring-  all  tliis  time;  urid, 
wliat  wiiH  moro  curious,  thvy  I'ound,  on  tliuir  return 
south,  that  no  ice  had  been  sent  down  durinjjj  the  gale. 
On  the  contrary,  they  then  found  the  channel  perfectly 
clear  tVoni  shore  to  shore. 

June  22,  Thursday. — They  camped  at  8.30  A.  M.,  on 
a  ledge  of  low  rock,  having  made  in  the  day's  journey 
forty-eight  miles  in  a  straight  line.  Morton  thought 
they  were  at  least  forty  miles  up  the  channel.  Tlu'  ice 
was  here  moving  to  the  southward  with  the  tide.  The 
channel  runs  i.orthwardlv,  and  is  about  thirtv-fivc 
miles  wide.  Tlie  o^  nosite  coast  appears  straight,  but 
still  sloping,  its  head  beu^g  a  little  to  the  west  of  north. 
This  shoi*e  is  high,  with  l(**'ty  mountains  of  sugar-loaf 
shape  at  the  tops,  which,  set  together  in  ranges,  looked 
like  piles  of  stacked  cannon-balls.  It  was  too  cloudv 
for  observations  when  they  camped,  but  they  obtained 
several  higher  up.  The  eider  were  in  such  numbers 
here  that  Hans  fired  into  the  flocks,  and  killed  two 
birds  with  one  shot. 

June  23,  Friday. — In  consequence  of  the  gale  of 
wind,  they  did  not  start  till  12.30  midnight.  They 
made  about  eight  miles,  and  were  arrested  bA'  the 
broken  ice  of  the  shore.  Their  utmost  efforts  could 
not  pass  the  sledge  over  this;  so  they  tied  the  dogs  to 
it,  and  went  ahead  to  see  how  things  looked.  Thev 
found  the  land-ice  growing  worse  and  worse,  until  at 
last  it  ceased,  and  the  water  broke  directly  against  the 
steep  cliffs. 

I^hey  continued  their   course   overland    until    they 


n  E  A  li      A  \  I)     C  U  B. 


293 


camo  to  the  entninco  of  a  \n\y,  wlicMico  thoy  oould  sec 
a  cape  and  an  island  to  (ho  nortliward.  Tlicy  then 
tiiriit'd  back,  seeing  ninnhcrs  of  birds  on  their  way, 
and,  lc'avin<5  the  dogs  to  await  their  return,  prepared 
to  proceed  on  loot. 

This  spot  was  the  greenest  that  they  liad  seen  since 
leaving  the  headlands  of  the  channel.  Snow  patched  the 
valleys,  and  water  was  trickling  from  the  rocks.  Karly 
iis  it  was,  Hans  was  al)le  to  recognise  some  of  the  llower- 
life.  He  eat  of  the  young  shoots  of  the  lychnis,  and 
brought  home  to  me  the  dried  pod  {sl/it/nn)  of  a  hes- 
peris,  which  had  survived  the  wear  and  tear  of  winter. 
Mortem  was  struck  with  the  abuneance  of  little  stone- 
crops,  "about  the  size  of  a  pea."  I  give  in  the  ai)[KMidix 
his  scanty  list  of  recognised  but  not  collected  [)lants. 

June  23,  24,  Friday,  Saturday. — At  3  a.m.  they 
started  again,  carrying  eight  pounds  of  pennnican  and 
two  of  bread,  besides  the  artificial  horizon,  sextant,  and 
com[)ass,  a  rifle,  and  tlie  boat-hook.  After  two  lioura' 
walking  the  travel  improved,  and,  on  nearing  a  phiin 
a))out  nine  miles  from  where  they  had  left  the  sledge, 
they  were  rejoiced  to  see  a  she-bear  and  her  cub. 
They  had  tied  the  dogs  securely,  as  they  thought ;  but 
Toudla  and  four  others  had  broken  loose  and  followed 
them,  making  their  appearance  within  an  hour.  They 
were  thus  able  to  attack  the  bear  at  once. 

Ilans,  who  to  the  simplicity  of  an  Esquimaux  united 
the  shrewd  observation  of  a  hunter,  describes  the  con- 
test which  followed  so  graphlciiliy  that  I  try  to  engraft 
some  of  the  quaintness  of  his  description   upon    Mr. 


; 


r\ 


if  •' 


I' 


t.i 


1    ittl 


")'f 

1  i  ■ 

s 

j,;    . 

1 

:■■, 

i 

im 

ili'l 

I'H 

Vlf  ^ 

'^^H 

■B^p  ^    ' 

'             IB 

1      ^     ^'J 

i      I    ji;;J 

'' 

i 

1 

i..  ^ 

i 


'♦I 


i  J 


fi<  '■. 


294 


T  U  E     HUNT. 


Morton's  report.  The  bear  tied ;  but  the  little  one 
being  unaljle  either  to  keep  ahead  of  the  dogs  or  to 
keep  pace  with  her,  she  turned  back,  and,  putting  her 
head  under  its  haunches,  threw  it  some  distance  ahead. 
The  cub  safe  for  the  moment,  she  would  wheel  round 
and  face  the  dogs,  so  as  to  give  it  a  chance  to  run 
avv'ay ;  but  it  always  stopped  just  as  it  alighted,  till 
she  came  up  and  threw  it  ahead  again :  it  seemed  to 
expect  her  aid,  and  would  not  go  on  without  it. 
Sometimes  the  mother  would  run  a  few  yards  ahead, 
as  if  to  coax  the  yorng  one  up  to  her,  and  when  the 
dogs  came  up  she  would  turn  on  them  and  drive 
them  back ;  then,  as  they  dodged  her  blows,  she  would 
rejoin  the  cub  and  push  it  on,  sometimes  putting  her 
head  under  it,  sometimes  catching  it  in  her  mouth  hy 
the  nape  of  the  neck. 

For  a  time  she  managed  her  retreat  with  great 
celeritv,  leaving  the  two  men  far  in  the  rear.  Thev 
had  engaged  her  on  the  land-ice ;  but  she  led  the  dogs 
in-shore,  up  a  small  stony  valley  which  opened  into 
the  interior.  But,  after  she  had  gone  a  mile  and  a 
half,  her  pace  slackened,  and,  the  little  one  being  jaded, 
she  soon  came  to  a  halt. 

The  men  were  then  only  half  a  mile  behind ;  and, 
running  at  full  speed,  they  soon  came  up  to  where  the 
dogs  were  holding  her  at  bay.  The  fight  was  now  ;i 
desperate  one.  The  mother  never  went  more  than  two 
yards  ahead,  constantly  looking  at  the  cub.  When  the 
dogs  came  near  her,  she  would  sit  upon  her  haunches 
and  take  the  little  one  between  her  hind  legs,  fighting 


T  U  E      1)  E  A  T  II. 


295 


G  little   one 
;  dogs  or  to 

putting  her 
tiince  JibeiKl. 
wheel  round 
ance  to  run 
alighted,  till 
it  seemed  to 

without  it. 
yards  ahead, 
nd  when  the 
in  and  drive 
kvs,  she  would 
s  putting  her 
lier  mouth  Ijy 

,t   with   great 

;  rear.     They 

e  led  the  dogs 

opened  into 

a  mile  and  a 

e  being  jaded, 

behind;  and, 
to  where  the 
ht  was  now  a 
more  than  two 
lb.  When  the 
her  haunehes 
1  legs,  lighting 


the  dogs  with  her  paws,  and  roaring  so  that  she  could 
have  been  heard  a  mile  off.  "Never,"  said  Morton, 
"was  an  animal  more  distressed."  She  would  stretch 
her  neck  and  snap  at  the  nearest  dog  with  her  shining 
teeth,  whirling  her  paws  like  the  arms  of  a  windmill. 
If  she  missed  her  aim,  not  daring  to  ])ursue  one  dog 
lest  the  others  should  harm  the  cub,  she  would  give  a 
great  roar  of  ballled  rage,  and  go  on  pawing,  and  snap- 
ping, and  lacing  the  ring,  grinning  at  them  with  her 
mouth  stretched  wide. 

When  the  men  came  up,  the  little  one  was  perhaps 
rested,  for  it  was  able  to  turn  round  with  her  dam,  no 
matter  how  quick  she  moved,  so  as  to  keep  always 
in  front  of  her  belly.  The  five  dogs  were  all  the  time 
frisking  about  her  actively,  tormenting  her  like  so 
many  gad-flies ;  indeed,  they  made  it  difficult  to  draw 
a  bead  on  at  her  without  killing  them.  But  Hans, 
lying  on  his  elbow,  took  a  quiet  aim  and  shot  her 
through  the  head.  She  dropped  and  rolled  over  dead 
without  moving  a  muscle. 

Tlie  dogs  sprang  toward  her  at  once ;  but  the  cub 
jumped  upon  her  body  and  reared  up,  for  the  first 
time  growling  hoarsely.  They  seemed  quite  afraid 
of  the  little  creature,  she  fought  so  actively  and  made 
so  much  noise;  and,  while  tearing  mouthfuls  of  hair 
from  the  dead  mother,  they  would  spring  aside  the 
minute  the  cub  turned  toward  them.  The  men  drove 
the  dogs  off  for  a  time,  but  worn  obliged  to  shoot  the 
cub  at  last,  as  she  would  not  quit  the  body. 

Hans   fired   into  her  head.     H  did  not  reach   the 


,(  ■  <?. 


J 

1     ■■    :' 

t 

'!       ' 

J 

II 
[' 

'    ['■ 

I 

■'  f  ■; 

j                           9      1 

'III 

: 

in 

Md^' 

il 


'^ 


296 


FRANKLIN     AND     LAFAYETTE. 


brain,  though  it  knocked  her  down ;  but  she  was  still 
able  to  climb  on  her  mother's  body  and  try  to  defend 
it  still,  "  her  mouth  bleeding  like  a  gutter-spout." 
They  were  obliged  to  despatcli  her  with  stones. 

After  skinning  the  old  one  thev  gashed  its  body,  nnd 
the  dogs  fed  upon  it  ravenously.  The  little  one  they 
cached  for  themselves  on  the  return ;  and,  with  dilli- 
culty  taking  the  dogs  oft",  pushed  on,  crossing  ii  small 
bjiv  which  extended  from  the  level  ujround  and  liiui 
still  some  broken  ice  upon  it.  Hans  was  tired  out,  and 
w^as  sent  on  shore  to  follow  the  curve  of  the  bay,  where 
the  road  w^as  easier. 

The  ice  over  the  shallow  bay  which  Morton  crossed 
was  hummocked,  with  rents  through  it,  making  very 
hard  travel.  lie  walki'd  on  over  this,  and  saw  an 
opening  not  quite  eight  miles  across,  separating  the  two 
islands,  which  1  have  named  after  Sir  John  Fraid^lin 
and  his  comrade  Captain  'Jrozier.  He  had  seen  them 
before  from  the  entrance  of  the  larger  bay, — Lafayette 
Bay, — but  had  taken  them  for  a  single  island,  the  chan- 
nel between  them  not  being  then  in  sight.  As  he 
neared  the  northern  land,  at  the  east  shore  which  led 
to  the  cape,  (Cape  Constitution,)  which  terminated 
his  labors,  he  found  only  a  v  ry  small  ice-foot,  under 
the  lee  of  the  headland  and  crushed  up  against  the 
side  of  the  rock.  He  went  on ;  but  the  strip  of 
land-ice  broke  more  and  more,  until  about  a  mile 
from  the  cape  it  terminated  altogether,  the  waves 
breaking  with  a  cross  sea  directly  against  the  cape. 
The  wind  had  moderated,  but  was  still  from  the  north, 


CAPE      CON  ST  1  T  V  T  1  ()  X, 


id,  with  dilli- 


{ind  the  ciirront   ran   up   very  last,  four  or  five  knots 
perhaps. 

The  clifis  were  liere  very  hit2;h :  at  a  short  distance 
they  seemed  about  two  thousand  feet;  hut  tin;  erags  were 
HO  overlumging  that  Morton  eouhl  not  see  the  tops  as 


4      S  K  r  I  C  M  . 


he  (h'ew  closer.  The  echoes  were  confusing,  and  the 
clamor  of  half  a  dozen  ivory  gulls,  who  were  frightened 
iVoni  their  sheltered  nooks,  was  multiplied  a  hundred- 
told.  The  mollemokes  were  still  numerous;  but  he  now 
saw  no  ducks. 

lie  tried   to  pass  round   the  cape.     It  was  in  vain: 
th(  ri'  was  iu»  ice-foot;  and,  trvinu'  his  best  to  ascend  the 


1  -.( f 


I      :        ■        '  I 


IK   ' 


!     .! 


"il-i- 


!■    ' 


it 


'Ml 


298 


T  U  E     ANT  A  K  C  T  1  C     F  L  A  G. 


ml 


Uri 


ft 


f^ 


if 


-ii 


clifl's,  he  could  get  up  but  a  lew  hundred  leet.  Here  he 
lU.stened  to  his  \valkiiig-pole  the  Griiinell  ling  of  tlie 
Antarctic — a  weil-eiieri.slied  little  relie,  which  had  now 
followed  me  on  two  Polar  voyages.  This  Hag  had  been 
saved  I'roni  the  wreck  ol"  the  United  States  sloop-ol-war 
Peacock,  when  she  stranded  oil'  the  Columbia  River;  it 
had  accompanied  Commodore  Wilkes  in  his  I'ar-southeni 
discovery  of  an  Antarctic  continent.  It  was  now  its 
strange  de;!tiny  to  lloat  over  the  highest  northern  land, 
not  only  of  America  but  of  our  globe.  Side  by  side 
with  this  were  our  Masonic  emblems  of  the  compass 
and  the  square.  He  le:  them  fly  for  an  hour  and  a  half 
from  the  black  clifl'  over  the  dark  rock-shadowed 
waters,  which  rolled  up  and  broke  in  white  caps  at  its 
base. 

He  was  bitterly  disappointed  that  Le  could  not  got 
round  the  cape,  to  see  whether  there  was  any  land 
beyond;  but  it  was  impossible.  Rejoining  Hans,  they 
supped  off  their  bread  and  pemmican,  and,  after  a  good 
nap,  started  on  their  return  on  Sunday,  the  25th,  at 
1.30  P.M.  From  Thursday  night,  the  22d,  up  to  Sunday 
at  noon,  the  wind  ^ad  been  blowing  steadily  from  the 
north,  and  for  thirty-six  hours  of  the  time  it  blew  a 
gale.  But  as  he  returned,  he  remarked  that  the  more 
southern  ice  toward  Kennedy  Channel  was  less  than  it 
had  been  when  he  passed  up.  At  the  mouth  of  the 
channel  it  was  more  broken  than  when  he  saw  it 
before,  but  the  passage  above  was  clear.  About  half- 
way between  the  farthest  i)oint  which  he  reached  and 
the  channel,  the  few  small  lumps  of  ice  which  he  ob- 


it.     Here  he 

thvg  of  the 
ch  had  now 
lag  had  bueii 
i  sloop-ol'-war 
ibia  lliver;  it 
^  i'.ir-soLithoni 

^vas  now  its 
lorthern  Uind, 

Side  by  side 
f  the  compass 
Lour  and  a  halt 
rock-shadowed 
lite  caps  at  its 

could  not  get 
was  any  laud 
ing  Hans,  they 
id,  after  a  ij;ood 
y,  the  25th,  at 
.,  up  to  Sunday 
,adily  from  the 
time  it  blew  a 
i  that  the  more 
was  less  than  it 
mouth  of  the 
hen   he   saw  it 
lY.     About  half- 
lie  reached  and 
0  which  he  ob- 


TIDES MOUNT      V  A  H  il  V 


200 


served  floatin^u" — they  were  not  more  tlian  half  a  dozen 
— were  stiuulin'--  witli  the  wind  to  the  southward,  while 
the  shore-(  urrent  or  tide  was  driving  north. 

His  journal  of  Monday,  2(Uh,  says,  "As  far  as  T  eoidd 
see,  the  open  passages  were  fifteen  miles  or  more  wide, 
with  sometimes  mashed  ice  sei)ar;itin,ii'  them.  IJut  it  is 
(dl  small  ice,  and  I  think  it  either  drives  oui  to  the 
open  si)ace  to  the  north,  or  rots  and  sinivs,=^'  as  I  could 
see  none  ahead  to  the  far  north. "^^"^ 

The  coast  after  passing  the  cape,  he  thought,  must 
trend  to  the  eastward,  as  he  could  at  no  time  when 
below  it  see  any  land  beyond.  But  the  west  coast  still 
opened  to  the  north :  he  traced  it  for  about  fifty  miles. 
The  day  was  very  clear,  and  he  was  able  to  follow  the 
ranL;:e  of  mountains  which  crowns  it  much  farther. 
They  were  very  high,  rounded  at  their  summits,  not 
peal.  :d  like  those  immediately  abreast  of  him;  though, 
as  he  remarked,  this  apparent  change  of  their  character 
might  be  referred  to  distance,  for  their  undulations  lost 
themselves  like  a  wedge  in  the  northern  horizon. 

Ilis  highest  station  of  outlook  at  the  point  where  his 
progress  was  arrested  he  supposed  to  be  about  three 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  From  this  point,  some  six 
degrees  to  the  west  of  north,  he  remarked  in  the 
farthest  distance  a  peak  truncated  at  its  top  like  the 
cHlfs  of  Magdalena  Bay.  It  was  bare  at  its  summit, 
but  striated  vertically  with   protruding   ridges.     Our 


*  As  I  (juote  his  i-wii  words,  I  do  not  think  it  advisable  to  coniuicnt 
upon  his  view.  Ice  never  sinks  in  a  liquid  ot"  the  same  density  as  that 
in  which  it  formed. 


i  P^    :   1^ 


'! 


u 


it:r 


Mi 


i 

H 

1      '' 

i       ! 

■ 

^{ 

ill 

i 

1 

■ 

IHi 

s!' 

■|l 

t 

I:   1 

'      1                           ' 

: 

f,  1 

I    l. 


'  f'!! 


i- 


n-? 


1  ■ 


.i  ■ 

1  ^ 


!.| 


ii 


I  ; 


3G0        VICTORIA      AND     ALIiKUT      M  ()  I   N  T  A  1  X  S. 

united  estimate  assigned  to  it  an  elevation  of  I'lom 
twenty-five  hundred  to  tliree  tliousaiid  leet.  This  peak, 
the  most  remote  northern  land  known  u[)on  our  globe, 
takes  its  name  I'rom  tiie  great  pioneer  oi'  Arctie  travel, 
vSir  Edward  Pji.rv. 


MOUNT     PAKRY     AND     VICTORIA     RANGE,    iHOUGH     'irtEICH     BY     MORTON.) 

The  range  with  which  it  was  connected  was  mucli 
higher,  Mr.  Morton  thought,  than  any  we  had  seen  on 
the  southern  or  Greenland  side  of  the  bay.  The  sum- 
mits were  generally  rounded,  resembling,  to  use  his 
own  expression,  a  succession  of  sugar-loaves  and  stacked 
cannon-balls  declining  slowly  in  the  ])erspective.  I 
have  named  these  mountains  after  the  name     '^      v'  hidv 


A  INS. 


:i()n   of   IVoni 

This  peak, 

on  our  jxIoIh'. 

Arctic  triivcl, 


Iy    MOfiroN.) 


ited  was  iniicli 
re  had  seen  on 
ly.  The  suni- 
irr,  to  use  his 
^es  and  stacked 
perspective,     i 

ime  -^    '  ^^  li-'l^' 


(;  K  N  K  1{  A  I,      U  !•;  M  A  K  K  S. 


;]01 


sovereign  lunk'r  wliose  orders  Sir  ,Iolin  Fi-iiiiklin  sailed, 
and  the  prin<'e  her  consort.  Thev  are  similar  in  tli«Mr 
fcatnrt's  to  tlio.se  of  S[)itzl)erii('n ;  and.  lliough  1  am 
aware  how  ea.sy  it  is  to  he  deceived  in  our  jndgment  of 
(hstant  heights.  I  am  satisfied  from  the  estimate  of  Mi'. 
Morton,  as  w(>ll  as  from  our  measurements  of  the  same 
raiiue  farther  to  the  south,  that  thev  (Miual  them  in 
elevation,  2o()()  feet. 

Two  large  indentations  broke  in  upon  the  uniform 
margin  of  the  coast.  Everywhere  else  the  spinal  ridge 
seemed  unbroken.     Mr.  Morton  saw  no  ice. 

It  will   be  .seen  bv  the  abstract  of  oiir  "  fiehl-notes" 


111 


the   Ai)[)endi.\'.   as  avcU   as   by 


an   an 


dj 


SIS    o 


f  the 


results  whi(di  I  have  hero  rendered  nearly  in  the  very 
words  of  Mr.  Morton,  that,  after  travelli 


ng  due  north 

over  a  solid  area  choked  with  bergs  and  fro/en  fields, 
he  was  startled  by  tlie  growing  weakness  of  the  ice : 
its  surface  became  rotten,  and  the  snow  wet  and  pulin'. 
His  dogs,  seized  with  terror,  refused  to  advance.  Then 
for  the  'irst  time  the  fact  broke  upon  him,  that  a  long 
dark  band  seen  to  the  north  beyond  a  protruding  ctipe 


— (' 


ipe 


And 


rew 


Jack 


vson — w 


as   water.      With   daimer 


and  dilliculty  he  retraced  his  steps,  and,  reaching  sound 
ice,  made  good  his  landing  on  a  new  coast. 

The  journeys  which  1  had  made  myself,  and  those 
of  my  dilferent  parties,  had  shown  that  an  unbroken 
snrface  of  ice  covered  the  entire  sea  to  the  east,  west, 
iiiid  south.  From  the  sonthernmost  ice.  seen  by  Dr. 
Ha\es  unlv  a  few  weeks  before,  to  the  region  (jf  this 


r  %  ;■! 


■    «* 


■     ■  1 


mi 


I      I 


l-i 


«.,. 


1^ 


^     I 


>  '  w\ 


')U2 


T  II  i:      li  I  i;  l>S      A  1'  I'E  A  R. 


>:  I 


M      I 


t 


t    |5 


I 


I 


mysterious  wjit<'r,  was,  as  tlu*  crow  flios,  one  hundred 
and  six  miles.  ]5ut  lor  tlu'  unusual  sight  of  birds  and 
the  unmistakable  giving  way  of  the  ice  beneath  them, 
they  Avould  not  have  believed  in  the  evidence  of  eye- 
sight.    Neither  Hans  nor  Morton  was  prepared  for  it. 

Landing  on  the  cape,  and  continuing  their  explorii- 
tion,  wiiw  phenomena  broke  upon  them.  They  were 
on  tlie  shores  of  a  channel,  so  open  that  a  frigate,  or  ii 
Uect  of  frigates,  might  have  sailed  up  it.  The  ice, 
already  broken  and  decayed,  fornu>d  a  sort  of  horse- 
.  hoe-shaped  beach,  against  which  the  waves  broke  in 
surf.  As  they  travelled  north,  this  channel  expanded 
into  an  iceless  area;  "for  four  or  five  small  pieces" — 
lumps — were  all  that  could  be  seen  over  the  entire 
surface  of  its  white-capped  waters.  Viewed  from  tlu' 
cliffs,  and  taking  thirty-six  miles  as  the  mean  radius 
open  to  reliable  survey,  this  sea  had  a  justly-estinmti'd 
extent  of  more  than  four  thousand  square  miles. 

Animal  life,  which  had  so  long  been  a  stranger  to  us 
to  the  south,  now  burst  upon  them.  At  Rensselaer 
Harbor,  except  the  Netsik  seal  or  a  rarely-encountered 
Harelda,  we  had  no  life  available  for  the  hunt.  But 
here  the  Brent  goose,  [Anas  Ix^rnida,)  the  eider,  aiul 
the  king  duck,  were  so  crowded  together  that  our 
Esquimaux  killed  two  at  a  shot  with  a  single  ritle-ball. 

The  Brent  goose  had  not  been  seen  before  since 
entering  Smith's  Straits.  It  is  well  known  to  the 
Polar  traveller  as  a  migratory  bird  of  the  American 
continent.  Like  the  others  of  the  same  family,  it 
feeds    upon    vegetable    matter,    generally   on    marine 


THE     VEGETATION. 


;o;; 


one  liundrcd 

of  birds  and 
oucath  tlu'in. 
(U'ucc  of  eyc- 
.paretl  fov  it. 
their  exploni- 
They  WiVc 

a  frigate,  ov  a 

\t.     The   ice. 

sort  of  liorso- 
vaves  broke  in 
iniiel  expandi'd 
^inall  pieees"— 
)ver  the  eiitiro 
iowcd  from  the 
lie  mean  radins 
justly-esthuatL'd 

[ire  miles, 
a  stranger  to  us 
At  Rensselaer 
•cly-eneountered 
the  hunt.    But 
the  eider,  and 
[rcther   that  our 
single  ritle-ball 
;en   before  since 
known    to  the 
,f  the  American 
same    family.  U 
•ally   on    maviui' 


plants  with  their  adlieront  niolluseous  life.  It  is  raroly 
or  never  seen  in  the  interior,  and  from  its  hal)its  may 
be  regarded  as  singularly  indieative  of  o[)en  water. 
The  lloeks  of  this  bird,  easily  distinguished  by  tbcir 
wedge-shaped  line  of  llight,  now  crossed  the  w.  ter 
oblupiely,  and  disappeared  over  the  land  to  the  north 
and  east.  1  had  shot  these  birds  on  the  coast  of  Wel- 
lington Channel  in  latitude  7-4°  50',  nearly  six  de- 
grees to  the  south :  they  were  then  Hying  in  the  same 
direction. 

The  rocks  on  shore  were  crowded  with  sea-swal- 
lows, (aSVc'/v/c.  Arctica,)  birds  v;  os'.  habits  rectuire  open 
water,  and  they  were  already  breeding. 

It  may^  interest  others  besides  the  naturalist  to  state, 
that  all  of  these  birds  occupieti  the  southern  limits  of 
the  channel  for  the  hrst  fe"  miles  fter  reaching  open 
water,  but,  as  the  party  continued  their  progress  to  the 
north,  they  disappeared,  and  marine  birds  took  their 
place.  The  gulls  were  now  represented  by  no  less 
than  four  species.  The  kittiwakes  (L<(rns  trulac- 
fi/lis) — reminding  Morton  of  '"old  times  in  Baflin's 
Bay" — were  again  stealing  fish  from  the  water,  pro- 
bably the  small  whiting,  {Merlan'/xs  Polaris,)  and  their 
grim  cousins,  the  burgomasters,  enjoying  the  dinner 
thus  provided  at  so  little  cost  to  themselves.  It  was 
a  picture  of  life  all  round. 

Of  the  flora  and  its  indications  I  can  say  but  little ; 
still  less  can  I  feel  justified  in  drawing  from  them  any 
thermal  inferences.  The  season  was  too  early  for  a 
display  of  Arctic  vegetation ;   and,  in  the  alisence  of 


■■\ 


f:|! 


iirl 


,  j  /;| 

il ii  > 

:  *  ipl 

i  ill'  ' 

1 

i 


(I 


|i^^ 


;;04 


T  II  i:     1'  !•:  T  U  E  L. 


specimens,  T  am  unwilling  to  adopt  the  observations 
ol'  Mr.  Morton,  who  was  no  botanist.  It  seems  clear, 
however,  that  iriany  flowering  plants,  at  least  as  de- 
veloped as  those  of  Rensselaer  Harbor,  had  idi'eadv 
made  themselves  recognisable ;  and,  strange  to  say. 
the  only  specimen  brought  back  was  a  cru^ifer,  (lies. 
peris  2\f/(jmam — Durand,)  the  mllqucn  of  which,  still 
containing  seed,  had  thus  survived  the  winter,  to  give- 
evidence  of  its  perfected  growth.  This  plant  I  have 
traced  to  the  Great  Glacier,  thus  extending  its  range 
from  the  South  Greenland  zone.  It  has  not,  I  believe, 
been  described  at  Upernavik.^^"^ 

It  is  another  remarkable  fact  that,  as  they  continued 
their  journey,  the  land-ice  and  snow,  which  had  served 
as  a  sort  of  pathway  for  their  dogs,  crumbled  and 
melted,  and  at  last  ceased  altogether;  so  that,  during 
the  final  stages  of  their  progress,  the  sledge  was  ren- 
dered useless,  and  Morton  found  himself  at  last  toil- 
ing over  rocks  and  along  the  beach  of  a  sea,  which, 
like  the  familiar  waters  of  the  south,  dashed  in  waves 
at  his  feet. 

Here  for  the  first  time  he  noticed  the  Arctic  Petrel. 
[Procellarla  </hwialis,)  a  fact  which  shows  the  accuracy 
of  his  observation,  though  he  was  then  unaware  of  its 
importance.  This  bird  had  not  been  met  with  since 
w^e  left  the  North  Water  of  the  English  whalers,  more 
than  two  hundred  miles  south  of  the  position  on  which 
he  stood.  Its  food  is  essentially  marine,  tlie  acalepluv. 
&;c.  &c. ;  and  it  is  seldom  seen  in  numbers,  except  in  tho 
highways  of  open  water  frequented  by  the  whale  aiul 


I,  ■'*- 


t  f 


C  A  I'K      COX  ST  I  T  r  T  1  (>  .V. 


30.') 


)l)SLM'vations 
si'diiH  clear, 
least  art  de- 
had  alivaily 
mge   to  sav. 
I'u^ifer,  (//'  '^- 
vvlilcli,   still 
inter,  to  givi- 
plant  1  have 
[ing  its  range 
not,  I  believe. 

Jioy  continued 
ich  had  served 
crundded   and 
so  that,  during 
ledge  was  ren- 

If  at  last  toil- 
'  a  sea,  which. 

ashed  in  waves 

le  Arctic  Petrel. 
,^s  the  accuracy 
unaware  of  its 
I  met  with  since 
whalers,  mero 
Isition  on  which 
i,  the  aeah^diiv. 
rs,  except  in  the 
the  whale  and 


tlie  laru'er  representatives  of  ocean  lile.  Tliev  were  in 
niiinl)ers.  Hitting  and  ]i()V(>ring  over  the  crests  of  llie 
waves,  like  their  relatives  of  kinder  climates,  the  Cape 
of  Go()<l  no[)e  Pigeons,  Mother  Carey's  Chickens,  ami 
the  petrels  everywhere  else. 

As  Morton,  leaving  Hans  and  his  dogs,  passed  l)e- 
tweeii  Sir  John  Franklin  Ishiiid  and  the  narrow  lH'a(di- 
liiie,  the  coast  became  more  walldike,  and  dark  mass<'s 
of  [)or[)hyritic  rock  abutted  into  the  sea.  With  grow- 
inu'  dillicultv,  he  manaued  to  climb  from  rock  to  rock, 
in  hopes  of  doubling  the  promontory  and  sighting  the 
coasts  beyond,  but  the  water  kept  encroaching  more 
and  more  on  his  track. 

It  nnist  Inive  been  an  imposing  sight,  as  he  stood  at 
this  termination  of  liis  journey,  looking  out  up<m  the 
great  waste  of  waters  before  him.  Not  a  '•"speck  of 
ice,"'  to  use  his  own  words,  could  ])e  seen.  There,  from 
a  height  of  four  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  which  com- 
manded a  horizon  of  almost  forty  miles,  his  ears  were 
gladdened  with  the  novel  music  of  dashing  waves; 
and  a  surf,  breaking  in  among  the  rocks  at  his  ll'et, 
stayed  his  farther  progress. 

Beyond  this  cape  all  is  surmise.  The  high  ridges 
to  the  northwest  dwindled  ofl'  into  low  blue  knobs, 
v.liich  blended  finally  with  the  air.  Morton  called 
the  cape,  Avhicli  baflled  his  labors,  after  his  connnander; 
hut  I  have  given  it  the  more  enduring  name  of  Cape 
Constitution. 

The  homeward  journey,  as  it  was  devoted  to  the 
completion  of  his  survey  and  developed  no  new  facts, 

Vui..  1.— liO 


fi  it 


n 


M 


;ii,  £1 


m 


if  -i 


300 


T  II  K  ( >  H  1  E  S     OF     AN     OPEN     S  E  A. 


1  iK'c'd  not  give.  But  I  am  reluctant  to  close  my  notice 
of  this  discovery  of  an  open  sea,  witliont  ad(lin<^'  that 
the  details  of  Mr.  Morton's  narrative  harmonized  ^vitli 
the  observations  of  all  our  party.  I  do  not  propose  to 
discuss  here  the  causes  or  conditions  of  this  pheno- 
menon. How  far  it  mav  extend, — whether  it  exists 
simply  as  a  feature  of  the  immediate  region,  or  as  part 
of  a  great  and  unexplored  area  communicatin*:^  with  a 
Polar  basin, — and  what  may  be  the  argument  in  favor 
of  one  or  the  other  hypothesis,  or  the  explanation 
which  reconciles  it  with  established  laws,  —  may  be 
questions  for  men  skilled  in  scientific  deductions.  Mini' 
has  been  the  more  huml)le  duty  of  recording  what  we 
saw.  Coming  as  it  did,  a  mysterious  fiuidity  in  the 
midst  of  vast  plains  of  solid  ice,  it  was  well  calculated 
to  .arouse  emotions  of  the  highest  order;  and  I  do  not 
believe  there  was  a  man  among  us  who  did  not  long  for 
the  means  of  embarking  upon  its  bright  and  lonely 
waters.  But  he  who  may  be  content  to  folloAv  our 
story  for  the  next  few  months  will  feel,  as  we  did, 
that  a  controlling  necessity  made  the  desire  a  fruitless 
one. 

An  open  sea  near  the  Pole,  or  even  an  open  Polar 
basin,  has  been  a  topic  of  theory  for  a  long  time,  and 
has  been  shadowed  forth  to  some  extent  by  actual  or 
supposed  discoveries.  As  far  back  as  the  dayn  of 
Barentz,  in  1596,  without  referring  to  the  earlier  and 
more  uncertain  chronicles,  water  was  seen  to  the  cast- 
ward  of  the  northernmost  cape  of  Novaia  Zemlia;  and. 
until  its  limited  extent  was  defined  by  direct  obscrva- 


A. 


SO  my  notice 

mUlinj^'  that 

lionized  with 

)t  propose  to 

this  plieno- 
tlier  it  exists 
[)n,  or  as  part 
icatinfi;  witli  a 
ment  in  favor 
D   explanation 
,W8,— may  lu' 
uetions.     Miiu' 
.rdin.L^  wliat  wo 
lluiclity  in  tlu' 
well  calcnlatcnl 
;  and  I  do  not 
lid  not  lonj;-  for 
rht   and  lonely 

to  follow  our 
i_»el,  as  we  did. 

esire  a  fruitless 


(.  * 


an  open 


Polar 
long  time,  aiul 
Int  by  actual  oi- 
ls  the   days  of 
I  the  earlier  and 
leen  to  the  east- 
ern Zemlia;  and, 
direct  oijserva- 


I  ''A 


<l 


i..k 


'  )l 


'I' 
r   I, a 


!    , 

1 

i 

i 

■  r  ' 

:^ 

i 

:■   !,  Jl 

iA 

M 

U 

t  ;' 


i ' 


*  t. 


>  1 


ill 


m 


I 


^,: 


^^■fe! 


/  V.  / 


'I     •!'. 


!i- 


it,  'I 


li' 


f  'I, 


m  'i 


='r 


y 

I 

1         '■ 

!'' 

:  f  U 

i 

'  k'i ' 

I 

* 

\ 

i 

m 

f 

n 

a.- 

.sc 

d; 

h. 

sc 

.11 

I'i; 


b. 


i;l  ' 


tvi 


I  L  L  U  S  ()  K  Y      I)  I  S  C  ()  V  K  U  1  K  S. 


;J07 


tioii,  it  wjis  ay-sunic'd  to  bo  the  sea  itsell'.  The  Dutch 
lisheniK'ii  above  and  aroiuul  Spitzbergeii  pushed  their 
iulveiiturous  cruises  through  the  ice  into  open  .s[)ace.s 
varying  in  size  and  i'orni  with  tlie  season  and  the 
winds;  and  Dr.  Scoresby,  a  venerated  authority,  aUudes 
to  such  vacancies  in  the  tloe  as  pointin*^'  in  argument 
to  a  Ireedoni  of  movement  IVom  the  north,  inthicing 
open  water  in  the  neighborhood  ol"  the  Pole.  IJaron 
Wr.ingell,  wlien  i'orty  miles  i'rom  tlie  coast  of  A?'ctic 
Asia,  saw,  as  he  thougiit,  a  "vast,  illimitable  ocean," 
forgetting  ibr  the  moment  liow  narrow  are  the  limits 
of  human  vision  on  a  spiiere.  So,  still  more  recent Iv, 
Captain  Penny  proclaimed  a  sea  in  Wellington  Sound, 
on  the  very  spot  where  Sir  Kdward  iielclier  has  since 
left  his  frozen  ships;  and  my  predecessor  Captain  Ingle- 
field,  from  the  mast-head  of  his  little  vessel,  anntjunced 
an  ''open  Polar  basin,"  but  (ii'tcen  miles  off  from  the 
ice  which  arrested  our  progrc^-;,  the  next  year. 

All  these  illusory  disci^veries  were  no  doubt  chro- 
nicled with  perfect  integrity;  and  it  nuiy  seem  to  others, 
us  since  1  have  left  the  held  it  sometimes  does  to  my- 
self, that  my  own,  though  on  a  larger  scale,  may  one 
day  pass  within  ihe  same  category.  Unlike  the  others, 
however,  that  which  I  have  ventured  to  call  an  o[)en 
sea  lias  been  travelled  for  many  miles  along  its  coast, 
and  was  viewed  from  an  elevation  of  five  hundred  and 
^'iglity  feet,  still  without  a  Hunt,  moved  by  a  heavy 
swell,  free  of  ice,  and  dashing  in  surf  against  a  rock- 
buuiid  shore. 

It  is  impossible,  in  reviewing  the  facts  which  con- 


'     I 


'•M 

I'M 


U>,: 


308 


CHAXGES     i\F     r  L  j  m  A  T  K. 


tii^; 


i 

i                        1   V 

ill 

.  '^ 

1 1 1 

■/l^ 

\ 

i 

t   .             ■'     : 
1 

.'  % 


neet  theiii.sc'lvos  with  this  ili^'^ovciy, — the  iu<'U<  d  snow 
upon  tlic  rocks,  thu  crowds  oi'iuariiu'  birds,  the  limited 
hut  still  advancing  vegetable  liie,  the  rise  ol"  the  ther- 
mometer in  the  water, — not  to  be  struck  with  their 
))earing  on  the  question  of  a  nulder  climate  near  the 
I'ole.  To  refer  them  all  to  the  modilication  oi'  tempera- 
ture induced  by  the  proximity  of  open  water  is  onl\  to 
change  the  form  of  the  question;  for  it  leaves  the  incpiiry 
unsatisfied — What  is  the  cause  of  the  o[)en  water? 

This,  however,  is  not  the  place  to  enter  upon  siu-h 
a  discussion.  There  is  no  doubt  on  my  mind,  thai 
at  a  time  within  historical  and  even  recent  limits, 
the  climate  of  this  region  was  milder  than  it  is  now. 
1  might  base  this  opinion  on  the  fact,  abundantly  de- 
veloped by  our  ex[)editi()n,  of  a  secular  elevation  of  the 
coast-line.  But,  inde[)endently  of  the  ancient  beaches 
and  terraces  and  other  geological  marks  which  show 
that  the  shon*  has  risen,  the  stone  huts  of  the  natives 
are  found  scattered  along  the  line  of  the  bay  in  spots 
now  so  fenced  in  by  ice  as  to  preclude  all  possibility 
of  the  hi'.nt.  and  of  course  of  habitation  by  men  who 
relv  on  u  i()r  subsistence."'''^ 

Tradition  points  to  these  as  once  favorite  hunting- 
grounds  near  oi)en  water.  At  Rensselaer  llarbui", 
called  by  the  natives  Aanatoh,  or  the  Thawing-Phice, 
we  met  with  huts  in  quite  tolerable  preservation,  with 
the  stone  pedestals  still  standing  which  used  to  sustain 
the  carcases  of  the  captured  seals  ana  walrus.  Sunny 
Gorge,  and  a  larger  indentation  in  Dallas  \\\\y  which 
bears   the   Es(pumaux   name   of   the   Inhabited   Phire, 


mm0^- 


A     s  r  G  n  K  S  T  I  0  V. 


300 


molt<:d  ;uiow 
s,  the  liiuitril 
I  ol'  the  thrr- 
;k  with  tht'h- 
Kite  near  the 
)ii  ol"  tenil)eia- 
iter  is  onl}  to 
^es  the  iiKiuiiT 
J 11  water? 
ter  upon  fsiu'h 
uy  mind,  that 
recent    limits, 
[lan  it  is  now. 
ibundantly  iK"- 
levation  of  the 
iicient  beaches 
LS  which  show 

of  the  natives 

le  bay  in  s[)ots 

all  possibility 

1  by  men  ^vllo 

.oi-ite  hnntiug- 
schier  Harbor, 
'hawing-Phu'c, 
crvation,  with 
used  to  sustain 
alms.  Sunny 
as  Hay  wh'n'li 
lialjited   rUico, 


showed  ns  the  reuiains  of  ,i  vil!a,!.:e,  surrounde.l  b\  die 
bones  of  seals,  wah'us,  and  whaics — all  now  ca.scd  in 
ice.  In  impressive  connection  with  the  same  lac^-^. 
sliowing  not  only  the  i'ormer  extension  of  the  \\-  r.jj- 
niaiix  race  to  the  hiiiiier  north,  but  tlie  cliniaiic 
changes  which  may  perliaps  bi'  still  in  progress  there. 
is  the  sledge-runner  which  Mr.  .Morton  saw  on  the 
shores  of  Morris  Bay,  in  latitude  81°.  It  was  made 
of  the  bone  of  a  whale,  and  worked  out  with  skilful 
labor.^'^-^ 

In  this  recapitulation  of  facts,  I  am  not  entering 
ni)on  the  question  of  a  warmer  climate  impressed  upon 
this  region  In  virtue  of  a  physical  law  which  extends 
the  isotherms  toward  the  Pole.  Still  less  am  I  dis- 
posed to  express  an  opinion  as  to  the  iidluence  which 
ocean-currents  may  exert  on  the  temperature  of  these 
far-northern  regions :  there  is  at  least  one  man,  au 
oflicer  in  the  same  service  with  myself,  and  whose 
scientific  investigations  do  it  honor,  with  whom  f  am 
content  to  leave  that  discussi(m.  But  I  would  respect- 
fully suggest  to  those  whose  opjiortunities  fa-  litate  the 
inquiry,  whether  it  may  not  l)e  that  the  CiuP"  Stream, 
traced  alreadv  to  the  coast  of  Novaia  Zendia,  is  de- 
tk'cted  by  that  peninsula  into  the  s[)ace  around  the  Pole. 
It  would  re([uire  a  change  in  the  mean  summer  tem- 
perature of  only  a  few  degrees  to  develop  the  pei'iodical 
recurrence  of  open  water.  The  conditions  which  flefine 
the  line  of  jjcrpetual  snow^  and  the  limits  of  the  glacier 
fornndion  may  have  certainly  a  ])roximiit^e  appHcalinn 
to  the  problem  of  such  water-s[,aces  near  the  Pole.'"'' 


ki: 


If; 

I'  ■  •  p 

1      I 


||i»rilii 


t,   :       , 


^^'k 


)  IB     ■  ' 


I 


it 


mn\ 


ii 


',.  I 


V 


I ) 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

PROSrECTS- SPECULATIONS  —  THE   ARGUMENT  —  THE    CONCLUSION — 

THE     RECONNOISSANCE  —  THK     SCHEME EQUIPMENT     OF     IJOAT 

PARTY EIDER    ISLAND HANS    ISLAND  —  THE   CORMORANT   OULL 

SENTIMENT  —  OUR     CHARTS CAPTAIN     INOLEFIELD  —  DISCRE- 
PANCIES—  A    OALE  —  FAST   TO   A   FLOE. 

Jltttm^t  to  rtarl]  gctf^g  |slanlJ. 

All  the  sledge-parties  were  now  once  more  aboard 
ship,  and  the  season  of  Arctic  travel  had  ended.  For 
more  than  two  months  we  had  been  imprisoned  in  ice, 
and  thnuighout  all  that  period,  except  during  the  en- 
forced holiday  of  the  midwinter  darkness  or  while 
repairinjz:  from  actuu!  disaster,  had  been  constantly  in 
the  field.  The  summer  was  wearing  on,  but  still  the 
ice  did  not  break  up  as  it  should.  As  far  as  we  could 
see,  it  remained  intlexibly  solid  l>etween  us  iinJ  tlie 
North  W^ater  of  Baffin's  Bay.  The  questions  and 
speculations  of  those  around  me  began  to  show  that 
they  too  had  anxicus  thoughts  for  the  coming  year. 
There  was  reason  for  all  our  apprehensions,  as  some 
of  my  notes  may  show. 

810 


T  11  E      A  li  G  U  M  E  X  T. 


311 


"July  8,  Satiirdiiy. — Penny  saw  water  to  the  south- 
ward in  Barrow's  Straits  as  early  as  June ;  and  by  the 
1st  of  July  the  leads  were  within  a  mile  of  his  har})or 
in  Wellington  Channel.  Dr.  Sutherland  says  he  eould 
have  cut  his  way  out  by  the  lOth.  Austin  was  not 
liberated  till  the  lUth  of  August;  but  the  water  had 
worked  up  to  within  three  miles  and  a  half  of  him  as 
early  as  the  1st,  having  advanced  twenty  miles  in  the 
preceding  month.  If,  now,  we  might  assume  that  the 
ice  bet^veen  us  and  the  nearest  water  would  give  way 
as  rapidly  as  it  did  in  these  two  cases, — an  assuin[)tion, 
by-the-way,  which  the  difference  of  the  localities  is  all 
against, — the  mouth  of  our  harbor  should  be  reaidied 
in  fifty  diiyti,  or  by  the  last  day  of  August;  and  after 
tliat,  several  days  or  perhaps  weeks  must  go  by  l)efore 
the  inside  ice  yields  around  our  brig. 

'•  I  know  by  experience  how  soon  the  ice  breaks  up 
after  it  once  begins  to  go,  and  I  hardly  think  that  it 
can  continue  advancing  so  slowly  much  longer.  In- 
deed, I  look  for  it  to  open,  if  it  opens  at  all,  about  the 
beginning  of  September  at  farthest,  somewhere  near 
the  date  of  Sir  James  Ross's  liberation  at  Leopold. 
l>ut  then  I  liave  to  remember  that  I  am  much  farther 
to  the  north  than  my  predecessors,  and  that  by  the 
28tli  of  last  August  I  had  alread}-,  after  twenty  days 
of  unremitting  labor,  forced  the  brig  nearly  forty  miles 
through  the  pack,  and  tl'at  the  pack  began  to  close  on 
us  only  six  days  later,  and  that  on  the  7tli  of  Septem- 
ber we  were  fairly  frozen  in.     Yet  last  summer  was  a 


'  -t  - 
1      1 

1 

\' 


U: 


a  '  I 


V, 


V\ 


r^l! 


ff 


ui 


i  ;j' 


312 


THE     CONCLUSION. 


most  fuvoi-iible  one  for  iiv-iiieltini;.  Piittiiifz;  jill  this 
togt'tliiT,  it  looks  as  if  tlie  winter  nuist  catt'h  us  hoforc 
we  can  get  liall'way  tiirou«:li  the  i)aek,  even  thougii 
we  should  begin  warping  to  the  south  at  the  earliest 
moment  ihat  we  ean  h()[)e  I'or  water. 

"It  is  not  a  pleasant  eonelusion  of  the  argument; 
for  there  never  was,  and  1  trust  never  will  l)e,  a  partv 
W(>rse  armed  for  the  encounter  of  a  second  Ai'ctic 
winter.  We  have  neither  health,  i'uel,  nor  provisions. 
Dr.  Hayes,  and  indeed  all  I  have  consulted  }d)out  it 
indirectly,  des[)()nd  at  the  thought;  and  when  1  look 
round  upon  oin*  diseased  and  disal)led  men,  and  think 
of  the  le^irful  work  of  the  last  long  night,  I  am  tem[)ted 
to  feel  as  they  do. 

"The  alternative  of  abandoning  the  vessel  at  this 
early  stage  of  our  absence,  even  were  it  possible,  would, 
I  feel,  I>e  dishonoring;  but,  revolving  the  <[uestion  as 
one  of  practicability  alone,  I  would  not  undertake  it. 
In  the  first  phice,  how  are  we  to  get  along  with  our 
sick  ami  newly-amputated  men?  It  is  a  dreaiy  dis- 
tance at  the  best  to  Upernavik  or  Beechy  Island,  oui' 
only  seats  of  refuge,  and  a  precarious  traverse  if  we 
were  all  of  us  (it  for  nroving;  but  we  are  hardlv  one- 
half  in  elliciency  of  what  we  count  in  number.  Ik'- 
sides,  how  can  I  desert  the  brig  while  there  is  still  ;i 
chance  of  saving  her?  There  is  no  use  of  noting 
pro-s  and  con,s:  my  mind  is  nuide  up;  I  will  not 
do  it. 

"But  1  must  examine   this   ice-field  for  myself     1 
have    been    nnituriug    throuuh    the    last    forlni'^iit    a 


ml 


ng  all  tills 

•h  us  Ir'Ioiv 

veil  thou,i:h 

the  eiu'liest 

»  arjiunu'iit ; 
I  l)c,  a  party 
'coml  Arctic 
»r  provisions. 
Itod  a))out  it 
^vllon  1  look 
ni,  aiul  think 
I  am  tcniptcil 

^rcssol  at  this 
)ssiblo,  woultK 
e  (piestion  us 
undertake  it. 
oug  with  our 
a  dreary  dis- 
\y  Island,  our 
i-averse  if  \vc 
e  hardly  onc- 
umnher.     Bc- 
lore  is  still  ;i 
lise    of  notin.-' 
I   ^viU    not 

Ibr  myself.     1 
fortnight    u 


T  II  !•:      K  i;  (•  ( )  N  N  ( )  1  .S  S  A  N  C  K. 


:;i;3 


scheme  of  relief,  hasod  n[)on  a  communication  with 
the  Knglish  s(j[uadron  to  the  south,  and  to-morrow  I 
set  out  to  reconnoitre.  Hans  will  go  with  nu'.  We 
will  fit  out  our  i)oor  travel-worn  dogs  with  canvas 
shoes,  and  cross  the  tloes  to  the  ti'ue  water-edge,  oi'  at 
least  he  satisfied  that  it  is  imi)()ssihle.  'He  sees  host 
who  uses  his  own  eyes.'  After  that  1  have  my  course 
resolved  on. 

"Julv  11,  Tue.s(hiv. — V/e  got  hack  last  niuht :  a 
sixty  nules'  journey, — comfortless  enough,  with  only 
three  hours'  sleep  on  the  ice.  For  thirty-five  nules 
south  the  straits  arc  absolutely  tight.  Off  iicl'iige  Inlet 
;nid  PiS(piinuuix  Point  we  found  driving  leads;  hut 
hetween  these  points  and  the  hrig,  not  a  crack.  I 
])ushed  the  dogs  over  the  drift-ice,  and,  after  a  fair 
nnudjer  of  mischances,  found  the  North  Water.  it 
was   tlowiuij;  and  free;    but  since  Mcdarv  saw  it  last 


M; 


IV    1 


t  1 


UlS    IK 


)t  a(b 


d 


vanced  more 


th 


lan   lour  nules 


It 


would  be  absurd  at  this  season  of  the  year  to  attempt 
escaping  in  open  ])oats  with  this  ice  between  us  and 
wider.  All  that  can  be  done  is  to  reinforce  our 
energies  as  we  may,  and  look  the  worst  in  tin;  face. 

"In  view  of  these  contingencies,  I  have  determiiu'd 
to  attempt  in  person  to  connnunicate  with  Bi'echy 
Island,  or  at  least  nudvo  the  eflbrt.  If  I  can  reach 
Sir  Edward  Belcher's  squadron,  I  am  sure  of  all  I 
want.  I  will  take  a  liii'ht  whaleboat.  and  pick  mv 
O()m])anions  for  a  journey  to  the  south  and  west.  1 
may  find  perha])s  the  stores  of  the  North  Star  at  the 
Wolstenholnie    Islands,  or   by  great   good    luck    come 


'^'T'-WT-     I 


; 

;.(!( 


'U 


i.;5 


1  : 

m 

1 

i    : 

^■k. 

; 

1 
11   li. 

il 


1? 


i? . 


314 


T  II  K      sen  KM  K. 


across  some  passinj;  vessel  of  (lie  squadron,  and  make 
known  our  whereabouts  and  wants;  or,  failin;;;  these, 
we  will  try  and  eoast  it  alon^"  to  Welliuf'ton  Channel. 

"A  depot  of  j)rovisions  and  a  seaworthy  craft  larjic 
enoujih  to  carry  us, — if  I  had  these,  every  thin*^  would 
be  riuht.  Even  Sir  John  Ross's  launch,  the  Little 
Mary,  .^liat  he  left  at  Union  Bay,  would  servo  our 
])ur[)ose.  If  I  had  her,  I  (!ould  make  a  southern 
passage  after  the  I'all  tidi's.  Tlie  great  enemy  of  that 
seas(m  is  the  young  slun^e-ice,  that  W(»uld  cut  through 
our  fniil  boats  like  a  saw.  Or,  if  we  can  only  renew 
our  stock  of  provisions  for  the  winter,  we  may  await 
the  chances  of  next  vear. 

A' 

"T  know  it  is  a  hazardous  venture,  but  it  is  a  neces- 
sary one,  and  under  the  circumstances  an  incumbent 
duty.  I  should  have  been  glad,  for  some  reasons,  if  the 
command  of  such  an  attempt  could  have  ])een  delegated 
to  a  subordinate;  l)!it  I  feel  that  I  liave  no  right  to 
devolve  this  risk  upon  another,  and  T  am,  besides,  the 
only  one  possessed  of  the  necessary  local  knowledge  of 
Lancaster  Sound  and  its  ice-movements. 

"As  a  prelude  to  this  solemn  undertaking,  I  met  my 
officers  in  the  evening,  and  showed  them  my  ice-charts; 
explaining,  what  I  found  needed  little  explanation,  the 
})rospect  immediately  before  us.  I  then  discussed  the 
probable  changes,  and,  giving  them  my  personal  opi- 
nion that  the  l)rig  might  after  all  be  liberated  at  a  late 
date,  I  announced  my  project.  I  will  not  say  how 
gratified  T  was  with  the  manner  in  which  they  received 
it.     It  struck  me  that  there  was  a  sense  of  personal 


KQ  r  1  r  M  i;  n  t    or    no  a  t    i' a  ut  v, 


:U5 


rrlicf  c'\|)t'rit'iic(.;(l  c'ViTywlioiv.  1  told  them  that  1  <li(l 
not  t'hoosi'  to  call  a  oouiicil  or  coiim'tit  any  of  llicm 
with  tho  ivspoiKsibilitit's  of  tho  nifasiiiv,  lor  it  involved 
only  till'  personal  safety  ot"  those  who  chose  to  share 
the  risk.  Full  instructions  were  then  h*l't  fur  their 
guidance  during  my  ahsence. 

"It  was  the  pleasantest  interview  I  ever  had  with 
my  associates.  I  believe  every  man  on  hoard  would 
have  volunteered,  hut  I  conlined  mvselC  to  live  active 
men:  James  McOary,  William  Morton,  George  liiley, 
Hans  Cln'istian,  and  Tliomas  llickey,  make  'ip  my 
party." 

Our  ecpiipment  had  been  getting  ready  I'or  some 
time,  though  without  its  object  being  understood  or 
announced.  The  boat  was  our  old  "Forlorn  Hope," 
mended  up  and  revised  for  her  new  destinies.  She  was 
twenty-three  feet  long,  had  six-feet-and-a-half  beam, 
and  was  two  feet  six  inches  deep.  Her  build  was  the 
(iharacteristic  one  of  the  American  whaleboats,  to(.<  llat- 
bottomed  for  ordinary  use,  but  much  improved  b^  a 
false  keel,  which  Ohlsen  had  given  her  thnnighout  her 
entire  length.     After  all,  she  was  a  mere  cockle-shell. 

Iler  great  fault  was  her  knife-like  bow,  which  cut 
into  the  short  seas  most  cruelly.  To  remedy  this  in 
some  degree,  and  to  make  up  for  her  want  of  height, 
I  devised  a  sTt  of  half-deck  of  canvas  and  gum-elastic 
cloth,  extending  back  beyond  the  foremast,  and  con- 
tinued along  the  gunwale;  a  sort  of  weather-cloth, 
which  might  possibly  add  to  her  safety,  and  would 
certainly  make  her  more  comfortable  in  heavy  weather. 


--  '  T  r    I 


1   . 
t   I 


w 


V) 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


^   KS    ilO 


III  1.8 
U    ill  1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


S 


V 


<v 


»^' 


:\ 


\ 


%' 


"^^ 


<> 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  1458U 

(716)  872-4503 


0 

1 

1 

^  "% 

^? 

^^ 

^^ 

\:,' ': 


I     I 


■I    V 


i^ 


\  -it 


■I    ! 


31G 


V\\  V.  V  \  W  A  T  1  OX  S. 


I  left  her  I'lg  alt(),ux'tlu'r  to  McGiiry.  She  carried 
what  any  one  hnt  a  New  London  whaler  would  call  an 
inordinate  spread  of  canvas,  a  lijiht  cotton  foresail  of 
twelve-feet  lift,  a  stonter  mainsail  of  fourteen-feet  lift 
with  a  spreet  eighteen  feet  long,  and  a  snug  little  jih. 
Jler  masts  were  of  course  selected  very  carefully,  for 
we  could  not  carry  extra  sticks:  and  wi;  trusted  to  the 
good  old-fashioned  steering-oar  rather  than  a  rudder. 

Morton,  who  was  in  my  confidence  from  the  first, 
had  all  our  stores  ready.  We  had  no  game,  and  no 
meat  hnt  })ork,  of  which  we  took  some  hundred  and 
fiftj'  pounds.  I  wanted  pemmican,  and  sent  the  men 
out  in  search  of  the  cases  which  were  left  on  the  floe 
hy  the  frozen  depot-party  during  the  rescue  of  last 
March;  hut  they  could  not  find  a  trace  of  them,  or 
indeed  of  anv  thinu'  else  we  ahandtmed  at  that  time:  a 
proof,  if  we  wanted  one,  how  hlurred  all  our  faculties 
must  have  Ijeen  hy  suffering,  for  we  marked  them  as 
we  thought  with  marvellous  care. 

We  lifted  our  hoat  over  the  side  in  the  afternoon, 
and  floated  her  to  the  crack  at  the  Ohservatory  Island; 
mounted  her  there  on  our  large  sledge  "The  Faith," 
hy  an  arranu'e:nent  of  cradles  of  Mr.  Ohlsen's  devisinu'; 
stowed  in  every  thing  hut  the  provisions,  and  carried 
her  on  to  the  hluff  of  Sylvia  Headland:  and  the  next 
morning  a  party  consisting  of  all  hut  the  sick  was 
detailed  to  transport  her  to  open  water;  while  McCary, 
Hans  and  m3^self  followed  with  our  St.  John's  sledge, 
carrying  our  stores. 

The  surface  of  the  ice  was  very  irregular  and  covered 


5lie   carried 
)ul(l  call  an 
iorcsail  ol 
ccn-lcct  lift 
v^  little  jib. 
arel'ully,  lor 
'listed  to  the 
a  rudder, 
iiu  the   lirst, 
nine,  and  no 
lundred  and 
cnt  the  men 
:  on  the  Hoe 
,'scue   of  last 
of  them,  or 
that  time:  a 
onr  faculties 
ked  them  as 

le  afternoon, 
itory  Island; 
^The  Faith," 
n's  devising; 
,  and  carried 
find  the  next 
the  sick  Avas 
hile  McGary, 
John's  sledge, 

ir  and  covered 


LITT  LI:T()  X      I  S  LA  X  I). 


nr 


with  water-pools.  Our  sU'dge  broke  down  with  re- 
peated strainings,  and  we  had  a  fatiiiuim;'  walk  of  thirtv- 
six  miles  to  get  anotlier.  We  passed  the  lirst  night 
wet  and  sii[)perless  on  the  rocks;  a  had  beginning,  for 
the  next  day  found  us  stiif  Jind  out  of  sorts. 

The  ice  continued  trouljlesome,  the  land-ices  swavinii' 
hither  ;ind  thitber  with  the  tide.  The  second  days 
])i'ogress,  little  as  it  was,  cost  us  very  hard  labor.  Ikit 
another  night  of  repose  on  the  rocks  relVeshed  us;  so 
that,  the  day  after,  we  were  able  to  nials.e  about  seven 
miles  along  the  ice-belt.  Two  da\s  more,  and  we  bad 
carried  the  boat  across  twenty  miles  of  heavy  ice-Hoe, 
and  launched  her  in  open  water.  It  was  not  far  from 
the  hut  on  Esquimaux  Point. 

The  straits  were  much  clogued  with  drift,  but  I 
followed  the  coast  southward  without  difficulty.  "We 
travelled  at  nidit,  restinii"  when  the  sun  was  hottest. 
I  had  every  reason  to  be  pleased  with  the  performance 
of  the  whaleboat,  and  the  men  kept  up  their  spirits 
well.  We  landed  at  the  point  where  we  left  our  life- 
boat a  year  ago,  and  to  our  great  joy  found  it  un- 
touched: the  cove  and  inlet  were  still  fast  in  ice. 

We  now  neared  the  Littleton  Island  of  Captain 
Inglefield,  where  a  piece  of  good  fortune  awaited  us. 
We  saw  a  nmnber  of  ducks,  both  eiders  and  hareldas; 
and  it  occurred  to  me  that  by  tracking  their  flight  we 
should  reach  their  breeding-grounds.  There  was  no 
trouble  in  doin<j:  so,  for  tliev  flew  in  a  bee-line  to  a 
group  of  rocky  islets,  above  which  the  whole  horizon  was 
studded  with  birds.      A  rugged  little   ledge,  which   I 


py  I  ji 


I    I II 


rf';i 


n 


■K  n 


%4 


318 


E  I  1)  ]•:  K      I  S  L  A  N  I). 


11, 

D!   '  ' 


■''i,! 


■l^l    A 


1 .1 


.u. 


•Mi 


I' 


'f>: 


!'( 


•  f     r  . 


nanic'd  Eider  Island,  was  so  thickly  coloni/od  tliat  we 
could  hardly  waliv  without  troadini^'  on  a  nest.  We 
killed  with  ,uuns  and  stones  over  two  hundred  hirds  in 
a  few  hours. 


:','■'*,;<  'A 


EIDER      ISLAND. 


It  was  near  the  close  of  the  hreedin<i;-season.  The 
nests  were  still  occupied  by  the  mother-birds,  but  many 
of  the  youn<^  had  burst  the  shell,  and  were  nestling 
under  the  winu',  or  takinji;  their  first  lessons  in  the 
water-pools.  Some,  more  advanced,  were  already  in  the 
ice-sludtered  channels,  jrreedily  waiting  for  the  shell-fish 
and  sea-urchins,  which  the  old  bird  busied  lierseH'  in 
procuring  for  them. 


T  II  K      CO  Iv  M  (>  K  A  \  T      (J  I  L  L. 


nio 


Near  hv  was  n.  low  iuid  isolated  rock-U'diit',  which  we 
calliMl  Hiins  rshuid.  The  lilMiicous  liiills,  those;  conno 
rants  of  the  Arctic  seas,  had  made  it  their  |)eculi;ir 
iioniestead.  Their  proueny,  already  rull-llediicd  ;ind 
voracious,  crowded  the  <:nano-whiteued  rocks;   mikI   the 


[J  I 


I 


ii 


'  !   \l\ 


.iS'Wfyif?-  :;  -  :'A 


|k  I  >':   |l 


GLAUCOUS      AND      THIDACTYL      0  ULI.  S. 


mothers,  with  long  necks  nid  gnpiiig  yellow  l)ills, 
swooi)ed  al)ove  the  [)enceful  shallows  of  the  t'Iders, 
carryiiiii'  oft'  the  young  hirds,  seemingly  just  as  their 
wants  re((uired.  A  more  domin(>ering  and  Insatinhle 
rapacity  I  luive  never  witnessed.  The  gull  would 
gobhle  up  and  swallow  a  3'oung  cider  in  less  time  than 


.U  , M 


320 


r  li  E  D  A  T  ( )  K  Y     I  N  S  T  I  N  C  T  S. 


'"  I 


^4 


§ 


<■,.': 


•t ;-.! 


■n 


ji 


'i 


111 


ssivi 


it  takes  1110  to  dcscrihe  the  act.  For  a  moment  you 
would  see  the  paddling  feet  ol'  the  poor  little  wretch 
protruding  from  the  mouth;  then  came  a  distension  ui' 
the  neck  as  it  descended  into  the  stomach;  ji  few 
moments  more,  and  the  young  gulls  were  feeding  on 
the  ejected  morsel. 

The  mother-duck,  of  course  nearly  distracted,  battles, 
and  battles  well;  but  she  cannot  always  reasseml)le 
her  brood;  and  in  her  eilbrts  to  defend  one,  un- 
covering the  others,  I  have  seen  her  left  as  destitute 
a,s  Niobe.  Ilans  tells  me  that  in  such  cases  she 
adopts  a  new  progeny;  and,  as  he  is  well  versed  in 
the  habits  of  the  bird,  I  see  no  reason  to  doubt  his 
assertion. 

The  glaucous  is  not  the  only  jiredatory  gull  of  Smith's 
Strait.  In  fact,  all  the  Arctic  species,  without  including 
their  cousins  the  jagers,  have  the  propensity  strongly 
marked.  I  have  seen  the  ivory  gull,  the  most  beautiful 
and  snowy  St.  Agnes  of  the  ice-fields,  seize  our  w^ouiuk'd 
awks,  and,  after  a  sharp  battle,  carry  them  off  in  her 
talons      A  novel  use  of  a  palmated  foot. 

I  could  sentimentalize  on  these  bereavements  of  the 
ducks  and  their  companions  in  diet :  it  would  be  only 
the  every-day  sermonizing  of  the  world.  But  whiki 
the  gulls  were  fattening  their  young  on  the  eiders,  the 
eiders  were  fattening  theirs  on  the  lesser  life  of  the  sea, 
and  we  were  as  busily  engaged  upon  both  in  true  pi'c- 
datory  sympathy.  The  squab-gull  of  Hans  Island  has 
a  w^ell-earned  reputation  in  South  Greenland  for  its 
delicious  juices,  and  the  eggs  of  Eider  Island  can  well 


if      '  i: 


-f 


lomcnt  you 
ittle  wretch 
isteiirtion  oi' 
iicU;  II  i'^^v 
leading  on 

cted,  battles, 
s  reiisseinble 
lul    one,    mi- 

jis  destitute 
;li  cases  she 
ell  versed  hi 

to  doubt  his 

rull  of  Smith's 
lout  including 
nsity  strongly 
most  beautiful 
our  wounded 
em  off  in  her 

'cments  of  the 

would  be  only 

Id.     But  while 

Ithe  eiders,  the 

life  of  the  sea, 
th  in  true  pre- 
lans  Island  has 
lenland  for  its 

:sland  can  well 


or  i;     <■  II  A  li  TS. 


:vi\ 


all()rd  to  sull'er  from  tlu'  oceasiomd  visits  of  gulls  und 
other  bi[)i'(ls;  for  n  loeust-swarm  of  Ibrngei's  miiilit 
fatten  without  stint  on  their  surplus  abundiince. 

We  camped  at  this  niu'sery  of  wild-fowl,  aiui  laid  in 
four  large  Indiu-i'ubber  l)ags  full,  cleaned  and  iMulcly 
honed.  Our  boat  was  hauled  u[)  and  refitted;  and.  tin- 
trial  having  shown  us  that  she  was  too  hetivily  laden 
for  safety,  I  niiide  u  general  reduction  of  our  stores. 
and  cached  the  surplus  under  the  rock 


:VS. 


w 


On  Wednesday,  the  IDtli,  we  left  Fla-stalf  Point, 
here  we  fixed  onv  beacon  last  year;  and  stood  W.  10'  S. 
under  full  canvas.  Mv  aim  was  to  take  the  chamiel 
e')li(piely  at  Littleton  Island;  and,  making  the  drift-ice 
or  the  land  to  the  scuthwest  in  the  neighborhood  of 
('a[)e  Combermere,  push  on  for  Kent  Island  and  leavi 
a  cairn  there. 

I  had  the  uood  fortune  to  uet  satisfactory  meridian 
ohservations,  as  well  as  angular  bearinus  l)etwe(>ii  Cape 


Al( 


(1 


exaiKier    am 


1    Flaustaif    Point,    and    found,    as    oui 


ojierations  by  theodolite  had  already  indicated,  that  the 
entire  coast-line  upon  the  Admiralty  Charts  of  my  pre- 
d  cessor  would  liaye  to  be  altered. 

Cape   Isalx'Ua,   the  western    headland   of   the   strait. 


whose  discoyerv,  0 


.y-ti 


le-w 


ly. 


th 


IS  due  i'ath<'r  to  ol( 


d  Hall 


ni 


than  his  folhnyer  Sir  John  Ross,  bears  W.  '22°  N.  (solan 
IVoin  Cape  Alexander;  its  former  location  being  soiiu' 
-<t°  to  the  south  of  w^est.  The  narrowest  part  ol' 
Smith's  Straits  is  not.  as  has  been  considered,  between 
these  two  capes,  but  u[)oii  the  parallel  of  TS°  24'.  where 
Cape   Isaliella  ])ears  due  west  of  Littleton   lshii;d.  and 

Vol.  I.— 'Jl 


'r^il! 


H 


1 .'  I 


■  1"  j , 


I  ; 


hi 


•]  n 


C  A  I'  TAIN      1  N  G  L  K  V  1  !•:  L  I). 


the  dijunotcr  of  the  chaniK'l  is  rt'duced  to  thirty-seven 
miles. 

The  dilVerence  hetween  our  projection  of  tliis  eoast 
juul  Ciiptiiin   Inglefield's,  refers  itself  natnndly  to  the 


r.'p 
1 


<  in 


V  H 


-'  ■!' 


;'H 


-I  *i « 

,, .. ,.' 


;?n 


H 


%M 


CAPE      ISABELLA. 


(litFerinii'  eircnnistances  nnder  Avhieli  the  two  Aveiv 
framed.  The  sluggishness  of  the  compass,  and  tlii' 
eccentricities  of  refraction  in  tho  Arctic  seas,  are  well 
fitted  to  embarrass  and  mislead  a  navigator.  I  might 
hesitate  to  assert  the  greater  certainty  for  our  results. 
had  not  the  position  of  our  observatory  at  Fern  Kock, 
to  -which  our  survey  is  referred,  been  determined  by  a 
careful  series  of  astronomical  observations.^^^^ 

Captain  Inglefield  gives  the  mean  trend  of  the  east 
coast  about  20°  too  much  to  the  north;  in  conseipieiicu 


J"  \ 


D  I  S  C  R  E  r  A  N  C  I  E  S. 


323 


1)1"  which  tlio  capt's  and  iiidcntations  sighted  hy  him 
are  too  high  in  hititiido. 

Cape  Fredorit'k  V'll.,  his  hiulu'st  northern  })oint, 
is  phiced  in  hit.  7\)°  3U',  while  no  hind — the  ghicier 
not  being  considered  as  such — is  found  on  that  coast 
beyond  TO''  lo'.  The  same  cape  as  hiid  down  in 
the  Admiralty  Chart  of  18")2  is  about  eighty  mili-s 
tVoni  the  farthest  position  reached  by  Captain  Ingle- 
lield.  To  see  land  upon  the  horizon  at  this  distance, 
even  from  a  mast-liead  eighty  feet  high,  would  re([uire 
it  to  be  a  mountain  whose  altitude  exceeded  three 
thousand  five  hundred  feet.  An  island  simihir  in  posi- 
tion to  that  designated  by  Captain  Inglefield  as  Louis 
Napoleon  does  not  exist.  The  land  sighted  in  that 
direction  may  have  been  the  top  of  a  high  mountain 
on  the  north  side  of  Franklin  Pierce  Bay,  though  this 
supposition  requires  us  to  assume  an  error  in  the  bear- 
ing; for,  as  given  in  the  chart,  no  land  could  be  within 
the  range  of  sight.  In  deference  to  Captain  Ingle (ield, 
I  have  continued  for  this  promontory  the  name  wdiich 
he  had  impressed  upon  it  as  an  island. 

Toward  night  the  wind  freshened  from  the  north- 
ward, and  we  passed  beyond  the  protection  of  the 
straits  into  the  open  seaway.  My  journal  gives  no 
picture  of  the  life  we  now  entered  on.  The  oldest 
sailor,  who  treads  the  deck  of  his  ship  with  the  familiar 
confidence  of  a  man  at  home,  has  a  distrust  of  open- 
boat  navigation  which  a  landsman  hardly  shares.  The 
feeling  grew  upon  us  as  we  lost  the  land.     McGary 


m 

I  Mi 


% 


)  :"  "1 


!•:' 


't  '1 


■1% 


n' 


w 

•  i.' 
.  AM 

i .  ■  1 


•10 


24 


viol,  i;  N  T    (;  A  I-  K 


I   !    ' 


U  i'inl 


■m 


^••iv 


:                ; 

,      1    ■ 

1'  "¥'■ 

:'  i  ('-  ■ 

i   i^ 

:;  ij    SA 

!•    ■ 

)  1  ; 


■Ii: 


■i   hi 


1*i 


«     * 


r' 


Wiis  ail  uld  IJcliriiiu's  Straits  \vliaK'r,  and  ilnnv  is  no 
bottcr  hoatnian  in  tlic  world  than  lie;  hut  I  know 
that  he  sliaivd  inv  donbts,  as  tlic  boat  buried  iicrscir 
aji'aiii  and  again  in  the  troULih  of  a  .short  ('hop[)inL: 
sea,  Avhicii  it  taxed  all  his  dexterity  in  steerin,^'  to 
meet. 

Ballin  passed  around  this  ^ulf  in  10 lO  with  two 
small  vessels;  but  they  were  <j;iants  Ix'side  ours.  1 
thouiiht  of  them  as  we  crossed  his  track  sleeiiiiu  I'oi 
Cape  Comberinere,  then  about  sixty  miles  distant,  willi 
every  prospe(;t  oC  a  heavy  ii'ale. 

We  were  in  the  centre  of  this  hirii'e  area  of  o|i('ii 
water  wdien  the  gale  broke  upon  us  Iroin  the  north. 
We  were  near  founderinii'.  Our  false  bow  of  Indin- 
rubber  cloth  was  jjeaten  in,  jind  our  trail  weatiicr- 
boarding  soon  Ibllowed  it.  With  the  utmost  exertion 
we  could  hardly  keep  our  boat  from  broaching  to:  ;i 
broken  oar  or  an  accidental  twitch  would  have  been 
fatal  to  us  at  any  time.  lint  McGary  handled  that 
whalers  marvel,  the  long  steering-oar,  with  admiriil)ic 
skill,  N(me  of  us  could  ])ret('nd  to  take  his  ])lace.  For 
twenty-two  unbroken  hours  he  stuck  to  his  post  with- 
out relaxing  his  attention  or  his  eflbrts. 

I  w\'is  not  prei)ared  for  such  a  storm.  1  do  not  think 
T  have  seen  a  Avorse  sea  raised  by  the  northers  of  tlic 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  At  last  the  wind  hauled  to  the  cast- 
ward,  and  we  were  glad  to  drive  before  it  for  the 
in-shoro  floes.  We  had  passed  several  bergs:  but 
the  sea  dashed  auainst   their  sid(>s  so  furiouslv  as  to 


TAST      in      A      I'HU-; 


Omd' 


tlu'iv  is  nt) 

lilt    I   1^»»'»^^ 
l'kmI  lu'i'self 

i-t   rln)[>pin,^ 
steovin;!'   to 

Ll)    Nvitli   two 

;1(U>   t)urs.      I 

■  ;^UH'i'in;i  lor 

aistiuit.  with 


iK'U'.itivc    iill    hope    of    prdlcclioii    :il    their    Imsc:     the 
|(;u'k  or  \Uh\  so  iiuu'li   IbiU'L'tl  hi'l'oiv,  was   now   hujUotl 


h 


to  U)V  it 


rofiij 


U' 


I  ivnu'iiihor  well  our  uiixicty  ns  we  entered  tl 
loose  stiviiius  of  (Irift  after  four  hoiu's'  sciiddiiiu'.  and 
our  reliel'  when  we  felt  their  inlhieiiee  upon  (he  se:i. 
We  fastened  to  an  old  lloo,  not  fil't\'  \itr<ls  in  din- 
meter,  and,  with  the  wenther-surf  hrcMkiiiL;'  over  oui 
heads,  rode  out  the  storm  under  ;i  wiirp  :iud  liiiipnel. 


urea  of  <'!"'" 
)Ui   tlu'    north, 
boxv    of   ludia- 
frail   ^vcatlR'v- 
tinost  exertion 
roa(diin;j;  to:  ;i 
vdd  liave   hei-n 
handled  thai 
tU  admirahV 


VI 


Fov 


|hls  ])lacL', 
liis  \M»st  witli- 


ri  I 


Mil, 


I  do  not  think 
LiortlKM-s  of  thr 
IVh\  to  tlie  (>ast- 
for   thr 

hut 


'fore   it 
■al    bor 
fnrioii! 


il'S 


dv  as  t. 


IV 


t?  m  ■ 


I'v 


I 


W    I- 


' 


«! 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


,1.    t 


t  V 


[\\ 


h 


AVORKINO    ON — A    HOAT    NIP — ICE-BARUIKIl — THE    HARRIER    PACK — 
PROCiRKSH   IIOPELKSS — NOUTIIUMUKRLANU   ISLAND — NORTH UMllKR 
LAND    tILACIER — ICE-CASCADES — NKVE. 

TiiK  obstacle  we  had  now  to  encounter  was  the  pack 
that  stretched  between  us  and  the  south. 

When  the  storm  abated,  we  commenced  boring  into 
it, —  slow  work  at  the  best  of  times;  but  my  com- 
panions encountered  it  with  a  persevering  activity 
quite  as  admirable  as  their  fortitude  in  danger.  It 
had  its  own  hazards  too;  and  more  than  once  it 
looked  as  if  we  were  permanently  beset.  I  myself 
knew  that  we  might  rely  on  the  southerly  wind  to 
liberate  us  from  such  an  imprisonment;  l)ut  I  saw 
that  the  men  thought  otherwise,  as  the  ice-lields  closed 
around  us  and  the  horizon  showed  an  unchanging  circle 
of  ice. 

AVe  were  still  laboring  on,  hardly  past  the  middle 
of  the  bay,  when  the  floes  began  to  relax.  On  Sunday. 
the  23d  of  July,  the  whole  aspect  around  us  changed. 
The  sun  came  out  cheeringlv,  the  leads  opened  more 
and   more,  and,   as  we  pulled   throu":h   them   to   the 

326 


wo  U  K  I  N  (J      (>  N. 


327 


south,  ojich  i('o-ton;iii«'  timt  we  (loiihlcd  Ijroiiiilit  us 
lU'tiivr  U)  tlio  (livi'uland  shore.  A  shicUi'iiin^'  of  tlu' 
ice  to  tlu*  (.'iist  t'njil)UMl  us  iiftcr  a  wiii't  'o  la\  our 
course  lor  llaUhivt  Ishiud.  We  spread  our  canvas 
aji'ain,  and  readied  the  in-sliore  lieids  hv  one  in  th*' 
at'teruoon.  We  uuule  our  cauj[),  (h'ied  our  hull'alo- 
skius,  and  sunned  and  sle[)t  away  our  iati^iue. 

We  renewed  our  hd)ors  in  the  niornin.n'.  Keeping 
inside  the  pack,  we  coasted  alon<i'  lor  the  (.'ary  Islands, 
encountering  now  and  then  a  ])roji'cting  Hoe,  and 
either  horing  or  ])assing  ai'ound  it,  hut  making  a  satis- 
lactory  progress  on  the  whole  toward  Lancaster  v>ound. 
Ihit  at  the  south  point  of  Northuniherland  Island  the 
pack  arrested  us  once  more.  The  seam  hy  which  we 
had  come  east  hiv  hctween  Whale  Sound  and  Murchison 
Inlet,  and  the  ice-dril't  from  the  southern  of  these  had 
now  piled  itself  in  our  way. 

I  was  confident  thut  I  should  Hnd  the  ''Eastern 
Water"  if  I  could  only  reach  Cape  Parry,  and  that  this 
would  give  me  a  free  track  to  Cary  Islands.  I  there- 
fore looked  anxiously  for  a  fissure  in  the  pack,  and 
pressed  our  little  craft  into  the  first  one  that  seemed  at 
all  practical)le. 

For  the  next  three  days  we  worked  painfully  through 
the  half-open  leads,  making  in  all  some  fifteen  miles  to 
the  south.  We  had  very  seldom  room  enough  to  row; 
but,  as  we  tracked  along,  it  was  not  diflicult  to  escape 
nippings,  by  hanling  up  the  boat  on  the  ice.  Still  she 
received  some  hard  knocks,  and  a  twist  or  tAvo  that  did 
not  help  her  sea-worthiness;  for  she  began  to  leak;  and 


!l:'" 


'  i    ir. 


.'•■'J , 


i  * 


'i!'i 


lliM 


U  ' 


ilftj, 


r!;!'l 


III 


'h 


?! 


iiii 


1 

i 

S|     : 

( 

i 

y 

i 

i^. 

i 

;f 

I 

isi 


i     V     1 

f  ii 

ri:-: 

; 

•J  A  il 


''!(! 


Mi 


1'  t 


1  «! 


M^^' 


:}28 


ST  1  L  L      WOK  K  J  N  (J      UN. 


tilis,  with  the  rain  which  loll  heavily,  Ibreed  us  to  l){il(> 
her  out  every  other  hour.  01'  course,  we  could  not 
sleep,  and  one  of  our  little  party  fell  sick  with  the 
unmitigated  I'atigue. 

On   the   twenty-ninth,  it  came  on  to  blow,  the  wind 


lUUIH      POiST      OF-      NORTHUMi'rHLANti      l^LAM). 


still  keeping  i'rom  the  southwest,  but  cold  and  almost 
rising  to  a  gale.  We  had  had  another  wet  and  sleep- 
less night,  lor  the  Hoes  still  ballled  us  by  their  cai)riciuus 
movements.  But  at  three  in  the  afternoon  we  had 
the  sun  again,  and  the  ice  opened  just  enough  to  tempt 


I  us  to    l)lll(' 

!  could  not 
k  witli  tlK' 

w,  the  wind 


id  imd  almost 
vet  iuid  slec'[)- 
lieir  capvicious 
■noon  ^ve  liatl 
lOUuU  to  tempt 


A      BOA  T-N  I  1' 


US.  It  was  iniconifortaljle  toil.  We  pushed  lorwanl 
our  little  weather-worn  eraft,  her  liiunvales  touehinp;  on 
hoth  sides,  till  the  toppling  ice  began  to  break  down 
on  us,  and  sometimes,  critically  suspended,  met  above 
our  heads. 

'hic  of  these  passages  I  am  sure  we  all  of  us  re- 
member. Vlo  were  in  an  alley  of  pounded  iee-nuisses. 
such  as  the  receding  iloes  leave  when  they  have  erusbed 
the  tables  that  were  between  them,  and  had  pushed 
our  way  far  enough  to  make  retreat  impossibU',  wlien 
the  fiehls  began  to  close  in.  There  wiis  no  escaping  a 
ni[),  for  every  thing  was  loose  and  rolling  around  us. 
and  the  Hoes  broke  into  hununock-ridges  as  tliey  camr 
together.  They  met  just  ahead  of  us,  and  gradually 
swayed  in  toward  our  boat.  The  fragments  were 
already  splitting  off  and  spinning  over  us,  when  we 
(bund  ourselves  borne  up  ])y  the  accunudatiug  I'ubbisli. 
like  the  Advance  in  her  Avinter  drift;  and,  after  resting 
lor  twenty  minutes  high  out  of  water,  quietly  lowered 
again  as  the  fields  relaxed  their  pressure. 

(K.ierally,  however,  the  ice-lields  came  togethei- 
directly,  and  so  gradually  as  to  enable  us  to  anticipati' 
their  contact.  In  such  eases,  as  we  Avere  short-hantk'd 
and  our  boat  heavily  laden,  we  were  glad  to  avaii  our- 
selves of  the  motion  of  the  Hoes  to  assist  in  lifting  her 
upon  them.  We  threw  her  across  tiie  lead  by  a  small 
pull  of  the  steering-oar,  and  let  her  meet  the  approach- 
ing ice  upon  her  bow.  The  effect,  as  we  found  in  every 
instance,  was  to  press  her  down  forward  as  the  iloe 
advanced  against  her,  and  to  raise  liei-  stern  al)  .ve  the 


'illli 


11 1 


h;  ::M 


■',    1,1'  ■! 


330 


ICK-B  A  R  U  IKR. 


fiii 


I'     ^1 


1 


; 


-I 


l| 


'    ! 


level  of  the  other  fiehl.     We  held  ourselves  ready  foi 
the  spring  as  she  began  to  rise. 

It  was  a  time  of  almost  unbroken  excitement;  yet  I 
am  not  surprised,  as  I  turn  over  the  notes  of  my 
meagre  diar}^,  to  find  how  little  of  stirring  incident  it 
records.  The  story  of  one  day's  strife  with  the  ice-iloes 
might  almost  serve  for  those  which  followed  it:  1 
remember  that  we  were  four  times  nipped  befoi'e  we 
succeeded  in  releasing  ours(dves,  and  that  we  were  glad 
to  haul  upon  the  floes  as  often  as  a  dozen  times  a  day. 
We  attempted  to  drag  forward  on  the  occasional  fields; 
but  we  had  to  give  it  up,  for  it  strained  the  boat  so 
much  that  she  was  barely  sea-worthy:  it  kept  one  man 
busy  the  last  six  days  baling  her  out. 

On  the  31st,  at  the  distance  of  ten  miles  from  Cape 
Parry,  we  came  to  a  dead  halt.  A  solid  mass  lay 
directly  across  our  path,  extending  onward  to  our 
fiirthest  horizon.  There  were  bergs  in  sight  to  tlie 
westward,  and  by  walking  for  some  four  miles  over 
the  moving  floe  in  that  direction,  McGtiry  and  myself 
succeeded  in  reaching  one.  We  clind)ed  it  to  the  height 
of  a  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  and,  looking  out  from  it 
with  my  excellent  spy-ghiss  to  the  south  and  west,  we 
saw  that  all  within  a  radius  of  thirty  miles  was  a  mo- 
tionless, unbroken,  and  impenetrable  sea. 

I  had  not  counted  on  this.  Captain  Inglefield  found 
open  water  two  years  Ijefore  at  this  very  point.  I 
myself  met  no  ice  here  only  seven  days  Liter  in  IS-jo. 
Yet  it  was  plain,  that  from  Cape  Coml)ermere  on  the 
west  side,  and  an  unnamed  bay  immediately  to  the 


h..,4 


cs  ready  foi 

ment;  yet  1 
lotes  of  luy 
■r  incident  it 
I  the  ice-tloes 
llowed   it:    1 
ed  beibre  we 
^ve  were  giad 
L  times  11  day. 
iisioiial  fields; 
d  the  boat  so 
kept  one  man 

iles  from  Cape 
;olid  mass  hiy 
nward   to   ouv 
1   sight  to  the 
3nr  niiles  over 
iry  and  myself 
it  to  the  height 
ing  out  IVoni  it 
h  and  west,  we 
iiilcs  was  a  mo- 

a. 

Iniilefiehl  fouiul 

very  point.    1 

s  later  in  1B53. 

d)ermere  on  the 

lediately  ^o  the 


T  11  E      15  A  1?  U  I  K  K      I'  A  ('  K. 


331 


north  of  it,  across  to  Ilaekhiyt  Ishind,  there  extended 
a  contiiHioiis  barrier  of  ice.  We  had  scarcely  pene- 
trated beyond  its  niiirgin. 

We  had,  in  fact,  reached  the  dividing  pack  of  the 
two  great  open  waters  of  Ballin's  Bay.  The  expe- 
rience of  the  whalers  and  of  the  expedition-ships  that 
have  trjiversed  this  region  Inive  made  all  of  us  fami- 
liar with  that  great  expanse  of  open  sea,  to  the  north 
of  Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  which  has  received  the  name 
of  tlij  North  Water.  Combining  the  observations  of 
Bailin,  Koss,  and  Inglelield,  we  know  that  this  some- 
times extends  as  far  north  as  Littleton  Island,  em- 
bracing an  area  of  ninety  thousand  square  miles.  The 
voyagers  I  have  named  could  not,  of  course,  be  awtire 
of  the  interesting  fact  that  this  w^ater  is  divided,  at 
least  occasionally,  into  two  distinct  l)odies ;  the  one 
comprehended  between  Lancaster  and  Jones's  Sounds, 
the  other  extending  from  the  point  we  had  now 
reached  to  the  upper  pack  of  Smith's  Straits.  But  it 
was  evident  to  all  of  our  party  that  the  barrier  wliich 
now  arrested  us  was  made  up  of  the  ices  wdiich  Jones's 
Sound  on  the  west  and  Murchison's  on  the  east  had 
discharged  and  driven  together. 

I  may  mention,  as  bearing  on  the  physical  geogra- 
phy of  the  region,  that  south  of  Cape  Isa])elhi  the 
western  shore  is  invested  by  a  zone  of  unbroken  ice. 
We  encountered  it  wdien  we  were  about  twenty  miles 
from  the  land.  It  Ibl lowed  the  curves  of  three  great 
indentations,  whose  Ixises  were  lined  wnth  glaciers 
rivalling  those  of  Melville  Bay.     The  bergs  from  them 


•  •11 


■   t.!  '  'I 


I   '.i 


'  :i 


n  1 1 


10^ 


II 


Ii  '1 


h 


!  ■■  ' 


i-r.-i 


):; 

1  -iNt- 

1  ■ 

1'  fl 

i 

ai   f  , 

mMi 

iiiii. , 

ll 


■i: 


«.« 


.iij 


ir;j!i 


')  ,  :' 


332 


P  R  0  G  R  E  S  S     II  0  V  E  L  E  S  S. 


were  numerous  and  largo,  entangling  the  lloating  tloes. 
and  contributing  as  nnicli  as  the  currents  to  the  ice- 
chid  character  of  this  most  dreary  coast.  The  currents 
alone  would  not  explain  it.  Yet  when  we  recur  to 
the  observations  of  Graah,  who  describes  a  similar  belt 
on  the  eastern  coast  of  Greenland,  and  to  the  observa- 
tions of  the  same  character  that  have  been  made  on 
the  coasts  of  Arctic  America  to  the  southeast,  it  is  not 
easy  to  escape  the  thought  that  this  accumulation  of 
ice  on  the  western  shores  must  be  due,  in  part  at 
least,  to  the  rotary  movements  of  the  earth,  whose 
increasing  radius  as  Ave  recede  from  the  Pole  gives 
increased  velocity  to  the  southern  ice-pack. 

To  return  to  our  narrative.  It  was  obvious  that  a 
further  attempt  to  penetrate  to  the  south  must  be 
hopeless  till  the  ice-barrier  before  us  should  undergo 
a  change.  I  had  observed,  when  passing  Northuml)or- 
land  Island,  that  some  of  its  glacier-slopes  were  mar- 
gined with  verdure,  an  almost  unfailing  indication  of 
animal  life ;  and,  as  my  men  were  much  wasted  by 
diarrha'a,  and  our  supplies  of  food  had  become  scanty, 
I  resolved  to  work  my  w^ay  to  the  island  and  recruit 
there  for  another  effort. 

Tracking  and  sometimes  rowing  through  a  heavy 
rain,  we  traversed  the  leads  for  two  days,  working 
eastward ;  and  on  the  morning  of  the  third  gained  the 
open  water  near  the  shore.  Here  a  breeze  came  to  our 
aid,  and  in  a  couple  of  hours  more  we  passed  with  now 
unwonted  facility  to  the  southern  face  of  the  ishuul. 
We  met  several  Hocks  of  little  auks  tis  we  approached 


Dating  tloes, 

to  the  ice- 
'lie  cunvnts 
we  reciiv  to 

similar  belt 
the  obsevva- 
eii  made  on 
iast,  it  is  not 
imulation  of 
:,  in  part  at 
earth,  whose 
e  Pole  gives 

ibvious  that  a 
)uth  must  l)e 
,ould  undergo 
Northumber- 
)es  were  mar- 
indication  of 
Loh  wasted  by 
)ecome  scanty, 
id  and  recruit 

ough  a  heavy 
days,  Avorkiiig 
lird  gained  the 
}ze  came  to  our 
assed  with  now 
of  the  island, 
we  approached 


X  0  K  T  II  U  M  15  K  K  L  A  X  I)      I  S  L  A  N  D. 


000 


it,  and   found   on   landing  tliat   it   was  one  enormous 
homestead  of  the  auks,  dovekies,  and  gulls. 

We  encamped  on  tlie  31st,  on  a  low  beach  at  the  foot 
of  a  moraine  that  came  down  l)etween  pi-ecipitous  elills 
of  surpassing  wildness.  It  had  evidently  been  selected 
l)y  the  Esfpiimaux  for  a  winter  settlement :    (ive  well- 


N  0  S  T  H  L  M    ',  E    (  L  ^  N  J       ISLAND. 


built  huts  of  stone  attested  this.  Three  of  them  were 
still  tolerably  perfect,  and  bore  marks  of  recent  hal)it;i- 
tion.  The  droppings  of  the  birds  had  fertilized  the 
sod,  and  it  abounded  in  grasses,  sorrcd,  and  cochlearia, 
to  the  water's  ed^'e.  The  foxes  were  aljout  in  lireat 
numbers,  attracted,  of  course,  by  the  abundance  of 
birds.  They  were  all  of  tln^-m  of  the  lead-colored 
variety,  without  a  wliite  one  among  them.     The  young 


'■'i 


sii:  ill 

:"  '  '     ii- 

■  i    ■ 


■?|1' 


If 


l^^^ 


n. 


334 


N  0  1{  T  II  U  M  B  K  i;  L  A  X  I)      (i  L  A  C  I  E  R. 


ones,  as  yet  lean  and  seemingly  unskilled  in  hospitable 
courtesies,  barked  at  us  as  we  walked  about. 

I  was  greatly  interested  by  a  glacier  that  occupied 
the  head  of  the  moraine.     It  came  down  abruptly  IVom 


.  ";.:•  ] 


GLACIER      OF     NORTHUMBERLAND      ISLAND. 


tt  ,--j':. 


F  'HI 


the  central  plateau  of  the  island,  with  an  angle  of 
descent  of  more  than  seventy  degrees.  I  have  never 
seen  one  that  illustrated  more  beautifully  the  viscous 
or  semi-solid  movement  of  these  masses.  Like  a  well- 
known  glacier  of  the  Alps,  it  had  two  planes  of  descent; 
the   upper  nearly  precipitous  for  about  four  hundred 


I  ci:-("  Asc  A  i)i:s. 


33o 


foot  IVoiii  the  summit;  the  hnvoi"  of  about  the  same 
hoijiht,  but  with  an  angle  of  some  fifty  degroos ;  the 
two  conmnuiicating  by  a  shghtly-inelinod  phitfonu  per- 
haps half  a  mile  long.  This  iee  was  unbroken  through 
its  entire  extent.  It  came  down  from  the  level  of  the 
upper  country,  a  vast  icicle,  with  the  folds  or  waves 
impressed  upon  it  by  its  onward  motion  undistur))ed 
by  any  apparent  fracture  or  crevasse.  Thus  it  rolled 
onward  over  the  rugged  and  contracting  platform  Ijolow, 
and  thence  poured  its  semi-solid  mass  dowj  upon  the 
plain.  Where  it  encountered  occasional  knobs  of  rock 
it  passed  round  them,  bearing  still  the  distinctive 
marks  of  an  imperfect  tluid  obstructed  in  its  descent; 
and  its  lower  fall  described  a  dome,  or,  to  use  the  more 
accurate  simile  of  Forbes,  a  great  outspread  clam-shell 
of  ice. 

It  seemed  as  if  an  interior  ice-lake  was  rising  above 
the  brink  of  the  clifts  that  confined  it.  In  many  places 
it  could  be  seen  exuding  or  forcing  its  way  over  the 
very  crest  of  the  rocks,  and  hanging  down  in  huge  icy 
(Stalactites  seventy  and  a  hundred  feet  long.  These 
were  still  lengthening  out  by  the  continuous  overilow, 
some  of  them  breaking  off  as  their  weight  became  too 
great  for  their  tenacity,  others  swelling  by  constant 
supplies  from  the  interior,  but  spitting  oif  fragmentary 
masses  wdth  an  unremitting  clamor.  The  plain  below 
these  cataractine  glaciers  w^as  piling  up  Avith  the  debris, 
while  torrents  of  the  melted  rubbish  found  their  way, 
foaming  and  muddy,  to  the  sea,  carrying  gravel  and 
rocks  alonti;  with  tliem. 


iltii 


t 


jMU 


I  I , .  1 1 1 1 


|,  :;  '■ 


I 

t 


I  i 


u :  , 
I  i|,  : 


rH 


h  '' 

!  ■    h 

im  ■ 

\yh  ! 


m 


t  ,^^    ,  ! 


«1  O/i 

oou 


ici;-c  A  sc  A  I)  i;.s. 


'y 


■Hi 


i    ■<■! 


These  iee-casciidi's,  us  we  called  them,  kept  up  their 
dill  the  whole  iiij;;'ht,  woinetimes  startlin,^'  us  witli  a 
heavy  boouiiiig  sound,  as  the  larger  masses  lell,  but 
more  generally  rattling  away  like  the  random  (ires  (jf  a 
militia  parade.  On  examining  the  ice  of  which  they 
were  made  up,  I  found  grains  of  ucvc  larger  than  a 
walnut;  so  large,  indeed,  that  it  was  Inird  to  realize  that 
they  could  be  formed  b}-  the  ordinary  granulating  pro- 
cesses of  the  winter  snows.  My  impression  is,  that  the 
surface  of  the  plateau-ice,  the  nur  dc  <//ace  of  the  island, 
is  made  up  of  these  agglomerated  nodules,  and  that 
they  are  forced  out  and  discarded  by  the  advance  of 
the  more  compact  ice  from  higher  levels.^'''^^ 


i 
1 

'1 

Ill 


ki'pt  iq)  their 
ii"'  us  with   i^ 
asses  it'll,  but 
idoiu  ilres  ol'  a 
L)t'  ^vhich  they 
larger  than  a 
to  realize  that 
•anulating  pro- 
ion  is,  that  the 
-e  of  the  island, 
lules,  and  that 
the  advance  of 

,  (55) 


CHAPTER   XXVI. 

THE  ICE-FOOT  IN  AUGUST  —  TIIK  I'ACK  IN  AlCl'ST  —  ICE-BLASTINn 
— FOX-TIIAP  POINT  —  WAUl'ING  —  TIIK  I'llOSI'ECT — Al'l'KOAClI  INO 
CLIMAX — SIGNAL  CAHIN — TIIK  IlKCORl) — PIIOJECTED  WITIIDUAWAL 
— THE    QUESTION — THE    DETERMINATION — THE   RESULT. 

It  was  with  mingled  feelings  that  we  neared  the 
brig.  Our  little  party  had  grown  fat  and  strong  upon 
the  auks  and  eiders  and  scurvy-grass;  and  surmises 
were  rife  among  us  as  to  the  condition  of  our  comrades 
and  the  prospects  of  our  ice-bound  little  ship. 

The  tide-leads,  which  one  year  ago  had  alforded  a 
precarious  passage  to  the  vessel,  now  barely  admitted 
our  wlialeboat;  and,  as  we  forced  her  through  the 
broken  ice,  she  shoAved  such  signs  of  hard  usage,  that 
I  had  her  hauled  up  upon  the  land-belt  and  housed 
under  the  cliffs  at  Six-mile  Ravine.  We  crossed  the 
rocks  on  foot,  aided  by  our  jumping- j)oles,  and  stai'tled 
our  shipmates  by  our  sudden  appearance. 

In  the  midst  of  the  greetin.f':  -'^h  always  met  our 
returning  parties,  and  which  ;'  n;  to  our  little  vessel 
the  endearing  associations  of  a  homestead,  our  thoughts 
reverted  to  the  feeble  chances  of  our  liljeration.  and 

Vol.  I.— 22  :337 


'N'-  ' 


1^ 

s: 

ki 

» 


.i    hi 


i  • 


I"' 


?]38 


T  U  !•;      IC  i;-l()UT      I  N       A  I    (i  L  ST, 


the  Ciiilure  uf  our  recent  ellurt  io  seourc  the  ineuiis  ol'u 
retreat. 

T\\v  hrig  liiid  been  im[>ris()ne(l  l»y  closely-cementiiij* 
ice  for  eleven  months,  dnrin^i;' which  period  she  had  not 
hnd^ed  an  inch  from  her  icv  <'r;Mlh'.  My  journal  will 
sliow  the  elVorts  and  the  hopes  whicli  engrossed  oiii 
few  reniaininti'  days  of  uncertainty  and  suspense: — 

"August  8,  Tuesday. — This  niorninji;  two  saw-liiu-« 
were  passed  from  the  open-water  pools  at  the  sides  ol" 
our  sternpost,  and  the  ice  was  hored  tor  hlastiu'r.  In 
the  course  of  our  operations  tlu^  brig  surged  and  righted, 
rising  two  and  a  half  feet.  We  are  now  tr^•in^•  to  warn 
her  a  few  yards  toward  Butler  Island,  where  we  a-iain 
go  to  work  with  our  powder-canisters. 

"August  11,  Friday. — Returned  yesterday  from  an 
inspection  of  the  ice  toward  the  Esquimaux  settlements; 
but,  absorbing  as  was  my  errand,  1  managed  to  take 
geognostical  sections  and  profiles  of  the  coast  as  far 
south  as  Peter  Force  Bay,  beyond  which  the  ice  was 
impenetrable. 

"I  have  often  referred  to  the  massive  character  of  the 
ice  in  that  neighborhood.  The  ice-foot,  by  our  winter 
measurement  twenty-seven  feet  in  mean  thickness  ly 
forty  yards  in  width,  is  now  of  dimensions  still  more 
formidable.  Large  masses,  released  like  land-slides  l)y 
the  action  of  torrents  from  the  coast,  form  here  and 
there  a  belt  or  reef,  which  clogs  the  shoal  water  near 
the  shore  and  prevents  a  passage.  Such  ice  I  liave 
seen  thirty-six  feet  in  height;  and  when  subjected,  as 
it  often  is,  to  hummock-squeezing,  sixty  and  seventy 


Tin;    I'Mw 


N      A  I  ( i  I   S  T. 


•••Mi 


aged  to  tiikc 


Irit.      It  rcciuirt's  cNpi'iiciico  io  ilistiiigiiisli   it   IVuiu  tlie 
truo  icchcrfz;. 

"Wlicii  I  [Kissed  up  (lie  Sound  on  lliclitli  of  August, 
after  u\\  lon^'  southern  journey,  I  found  tlie  ice-foot 
(•oni[)jiriitively  uidn'oken,  jind  a  fnie  intei'\;d  of  open 
water  between  it  and  tlielaru'e  Hoes  of  tlie  paciv.  Since 
then,  tliis  pack  has  heen  hi'oken  up,  and  the  coniini- 
nuted  IVaj^inents,  fonnin^i;'  a  iireat  (h'ift,  move  with  tides 
and  currents   in  such  a  way  as  to  ohhterate   the  •hind- 


\\ 


ater'  at  hi<ih   tide,  and   under  some  circumslai 


ices 


at 


other  times.  This  broken  ruhl)isii  occasionally  expands 
enough  to  [)ermit  a  boat  to  [)ass  through;  hut.  as  we 
found  it,  a  [)assage  could  only  he  elfected  hy  iieavv 
labor,  and  at  great  expense  to  our  boat,  nearly  unsea- 
worthy  now  from  her  former  trials.  We  hauli'd  her  up 
near  Bedevilled  Headland,  and  returned  to  the  bi'ig 
on  foot. 

"As  I  travelled  ]>ack  along  the  coast,  I  o1)served  the 
wonderful  changes  brought  about  by  the  disru[)tion  of 
the  pack.  It  was  my  hope  to  Inive  extricated  the  brig, 
if  she  was  ever  to  be  liberated,  l)efore  tlu'  drift  had 
choked  the  landdeads;  but  now  they  are  clost'l}- jannned 

th  stupendous  ice-fragments,  records  of  inconceivable 


\vi 


l)rcssnres. 
t,l 


The    berjis,    released     In 


'n'^i 


)m 


tl 


leir    wniter 


cemen 


lave  driven  down  in  crowds,  groundnig  on 


tl 


le 


shallows,  and  extending  in  reefs  or  chains  out  to  sea- 
ward, where  thev  have  canujht  and  retained  the  lloatinji; 
ices.  The  prospect  was  really  desolation  itself.  One 
tloe  measured  nine  feet  in  mean  elevation  above  the 
water-level;     thus    imphin^'    a    talndar    thickness    by 


m. 


I  ■• 


> 


l }  !■ 


;■     t 


^     (^ 


u\ 


340 


U:K-U  la  ST  I  N  G. 


direct  coiij^i'ljition  of  .sixt v-tlii'ce  lirt.  It  luid  so  closed 
in  with  the  sliore,  too,  as  to  real'  n|)  ti  han'i(uide  ol' 
crushed  ice  whicli  it  was  I'litiie  to  attempt  to  pass.  All 
pr()S[»ect  oi"  I'orcin^-  a  j)assa^e  ceased  north  ol"  Six-mile 
Kavine. 


"'^^51^ 


If 


.■'! 


h 


APPROACH       TO      OlISEnvAIOR' 


'•On  reaching  the  ))rig,  1  found  that  the  blasting  had 
succeeded:  one  canister  cracked  and  uplifted  two 
hundred  sc^uare  yards  of  ice  with  but  five  pounds  of 
powder.  A  prospect  showed  itself  of  getting  inside  the 
island  at  bigh-water;  and  1  determined  to  attempt  it  at 
the  highest  spring-tide,  which  takes  place  on  the  1-tli. 

''August  12,  Saturday. — The  brig  bore  tbe  strain  of 


I'M  \-T  l{  A  f      I'OI  V  T. 


:;il 


her  new  |)()siti(m  vrvy  well.  Tlic  tide  Irll  lirtccii  \'rot. 
Icaviiiu'  luT  liiizli  mid  (Ii\  ;  Imt.  ns  the  wiilcr  rose,  cvitv 
lliiii.u'  was  rcplnccd.  and  llic  drck  iml  in  order  for 
warpinj;"  a.u'aiii.  Kvci'v  one  in  the  little  vessel  turned 
to;  and  after  much  excitement,  at  tlie  verv  lo|»  of  the 
tide,  she  passed  'l»v  the  sUiii  ol'  her  teeth.'  She  was 
then  warped  into  a  hiiilit  of  the  lloe,  neai-  Fox-Ti'ap 
I'oint,  and  there  she  now  lies. 

"We  eon ^ratn late  ourselves  upon  efleetlMj;  this  eross- 
iuii".  Had  we  failed,  we  shoulil  have  h;id  to  remain 
fast  prohahlv  lor  the  lii'ili  tides  a  fortnight  henei'.     The 


Nounii;  lee  is  alread\'  maknm',  and  our  hones  rest  mainlv 
upon  the  gales  of  late  August  and  Se[)tend)er. 


August  1*),  Sundav. — Still  fast  to  the  old  lloe  i 


lear 


Fox-Trap  Point,  waiting  a  heavy  wind  as  our  only 
means  of  liberation.  The  land-trash  is  eemented  hy 
voung  lee,  whi(di  is  alr(>adv  an  inch  and  a  iialf  thick. 
The  thermometer  has  Iteen  as  low  as  ]1\)°  ;  hut  the  fog 
and  mist  wliicdi  [)revail  to-(hiy  are  in  our  favor.  The 
perfect  clearness  of  the  past  five  days  hastened  the 
growth  of  young  ice,  and  it  has  been  forming  without 
intermission. 

"I  took  a  h)ng  walk  to  ins))ect  the  ice  toward  Six- 


nii 


le  I 


vavme 


T 


lis   ice   lias  never  oeen   moved  eitnei 


ith 


d 


wind  or  w 


:ater  since  its  formation.      I  found  that  it 


lined   the   entire   shore  with   long   ridges   of  detached 
fragments:  a  discouraging  obstacle,  if  it  slionld  remain. 


ill 


tl 


le  w 


^y 


of  our   future    liberation.      It   is  in  direct 


contact  with  the  big  lloe  that  we  are  now  last  to,  and 
is  the  remnant  of  the  tri[)le  lines  of  '  land-ices'  which  J 


|!     U 


>  ;u 


H 


I         '  J  *  -I 


f  * 


H 


'i  .1 


\t- 


;U2 


I  ('  K-l  X  S  I'KCT  ION. 


■li 


mi 


]  I  It  J 


=11 


4  ? 


liitvc  (l('S('i'il)('(l  iiliciuly.      I  altrihiilc  ils  pcriiiiuicncy  fo 
the  iiliiiosl  coMstjiiit  sIkkIow  of  (lie  inoiinltiiii;.  iH'iir  it. 

"August  I''),  'riK'sday. — 'I'o-day  1  iiuulc  iuiotlici'  ice- 
in.s[H'cti()U  U)  tlio  N.E.  'J'lic  Hoc  on  whicli  I  have 
triidgi'd  so  oltcii,  the  hiji;  hay-lloc  of  our  loniicr  moor- 
ing, i.s  lu'arly  the  saiuo  Jis  wlioii  we  Icl't  it.  1  I'ccon- 
iiiscd  the  liolcs  and  cracivs,  tliroiiii,ii  {\\v  log,  l)y  a,  .sort 
of  iiistiiict.  M(.'(j!ary  and  iiiy.scir  had  litllc  dillicully  in 
I'oacliinji"  the  I'iord  Water  by  our  juni])iiig-[)olos. 

''I  have  my  eye  on  tliis  watcM-;  for  it  may  coiuiccl 
W'itli  the  Northeast  lleudhmd  and  liereal'ter  give  us  a 
passage. 

'"The  season  travels  on  :  tlie  young  i(!e  grows  Ihickei-, 
and  my  messmates'  faces  grow  h)nger,  every  (hiy.  1 
have  again  to  piny  l)uiroon  to  k(!ep  up  the  spirits  ol' 
th(!  party. 

"A  raven!  The  snow-birds  begin  to  lly  to  the  south 
in  grou[)s,  coming  a,t  night  to  our  bi'ig  to  hover  on  the 
rigging.  Winter  is  hurrying  u[)on  us.  Tlu>  [)o[)[)i('s 
are  (juite  wilted. 

"Examined  ice  with  Mr.  IJonsall,  and  determined  lo 
enter  the  broken  land-ices  by  war[)ing;  not  that  Ihcic 
is  the  slightest  proliability  of  getting  through,  but  it 
a,n<)rds  moi'al  aid  and  comlbrt  to  the  men  and  ollicers: 
it  looks  as  it'  w(    wer''  doing  something. 

"August  1.7,  'IMiursday. — Warped  about  one  iiiUKhcd 
yards  into  the  trash,  and,  aJ'ter  a  long  day  ol"  labor. 
have  turn(Ml  in,  ]i()[)ing  to  reconnnence  at  o  a.m.  to- 
morrow. 

"  In   live  days  the   spring-tides   come   back  :    should 


1 1. 


T  II  K      I'  UOS  [•  KC  T. 


u  I.) 


I        I 


luaiuMio}'  lo 
n;,  iH'nr  it. 
iuiotln'i'  "u'e- 
I'u'h    I    liiivc 
)ruu'r  ni(M)r- 
il,.      I  ri't'oi:;- 

>  (Uniciilty  in 

may  coniu'ct 
tor  i^ivt'  us  ;i 

I'l-ows  thick*'!', 
very  (lay.  i 
tlio  spirits  of 


i 


to  tlu'  SOlltll 
over  on  tlu' 
IMu'   [)()pi)i*'« 


1 


(IctoriuiiuMl  to 

jot  lliat  tluMv 

iroui"!*,  but  it 

luul  olVu-ers : 

it  one  IiuikUviI 
(lav  ol"  laltov. 
at  '-)  A.M.  to- 
back  :   should 


we  fail  ill  passing'  willi  (hciii,  1  tiiiiik  our  rortiiiics  are 
li.Kod.  Tlu'  voiiiii;'  ice  bore  a  man  this  iiioriuiiii' :  it 
had  a.  bad  h)ok,  this  iiiaii-siip|)oiiiii!j;  Aui2;ust  ice!  'Vho 
lempi'ratiire  never  falls  below  liS"  ;  but  it  is  cold 
()'  ni_i2;hts  with   no  lire. 

'•Aui-ust  IS,  b'riday. — Uecjiu'cd  onr  aUowanee  of 
ood  to  six  [)ounds  a.  meal.  This,  aiiioiii;'  eiL;hteen 
mouths,  is  one-third  of  a  pound  ol"  liiel  for  eacli.  It 
allows  us  eoll'ee  twice  a,  day,  and  sonp  i)nce.  Our  fare 
besides  this  is  cold  pork   boiled   in  (piantity  and  eaten 


w 


,is  rec^uirei 


This  sort   of  thinii'  works   badlv;    but    I 


I 


J  ' 


see  '(larRiiess 


must  save  coal  lor  other  eiuei'u,'encies. 
ahead.' 

"I  inspected  the  ice  a,^ain  to-day.  IJad  !  bad! — I 
must  look  anolher  winter  in  the  face.  1  do  not  shriidv 
IVom  the  thou!i;lit;  but,  wliih^  we  have  a  chance  ahead, 
il  is  my  first  duty  to  have  idl  things  in  readiness  to 
meet  il.  It  is  liorrihit — yes,  that  is  the  woi'd— to  look 
forward  to  another  year  of  disease  and  darkness  to  be 
met  without  fresh  food  and  without  fuel.  I  should 
meet  it  with  a.  more  tem|)ered  sadness  if  I  had  no 
comrades  to  think   for  and  protect. 

"'Au,i'ust  20,  Sunday. — Rest  for  all  iiands.  The 
daily  |)rayer  is  no  lonu'er  'Lord,  accept  our  ,i;ratitude 
and  bless  our  underlakinu','  but   'Lord,  aeei'pl  our  urati- 


liide  and  reslon'  us  to  our  homes. 

d  I 


Tl 


le  ice  shows  no 


cliaii^'e  :  alter  a,  boat  and  loot  journey  around  the  entire 
southeastern  (airve  of  the  bay.  no  siLins! 

1  was  out  in  the   Ked   ba'ie  with   nonsaJl,   Mcriary, 
ITiiMS,  Riley.  a,nd  .lolin.      We  tracked   hei-  over  the  i(U^ 


iljk 


1 ' '  i 

f 

II 


f  I  I 


hl'ri^ 


i  '■ 


■:' 


344 


A  P  r  H  0  A  C  II I  N  G     C  L  I  >r  A  X. 


to  the  Burgomaster  Co\o,  tlio  thinking  cape  of  Cbnr- 
lotto  Wood  Fiord  and  its  river.  Here  we  launched 
her,  and  went  all  round  the  long  canal  which  the 
running  waters  have  eaten  into  the  otherwise  un- 
changed  ice.  Charlotte  Wood  Fiord  is  a  commanding 
sheet  of  water,  nearly  as  wide  as  the  Delaware :  in  the 
midst  of  the  extreme  solidity  around  us,  it  looked  de- 
ceitfully gladdening.  After  getting  to  the  other  side, 
near  Little  Willie's  Monument,  Ave  ascended  a  higli 
bluff,  and  saw  every  thing  weary  and  discouraging 
beyond.     Our  party  returned  quite  crestfallen." 

My  attempt  to  reach  Beechy  Ishmd  had  disclosed, 
as  I  thought  it  would,  the  impossibility  of  reaching 
the  settlements  of  Greenland.  Between  the  American 
and  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay  was  one  continuous 
pack  of  ice,  which,  after  I  had  travelled  on  it  for  i7iany 
miles  to  the  south,  was  still  of  undefined  extent  ])eforo 
me.  The  birds  had  left  tlieir  colonies.  The  water- 
streams  from  the  bergs  and  of  the  shore  were  freezing 
up  rapidly.  The  young  ice  made  the  water-surface 
impassable  even  to  a  whaleboat.  It  was  clear  to  me 
that  without  an  absolute  change  of  circumstances,  such 
as  it  was  vain  to  look  for  any  longer,  to  leave  the  ship 
would  be  to  enter  upon  a  M'ilderness  destitute  of  re- 
sources, and  from  which  it  would  be  difficult,  if  not 
impracticable,  to  return. 

Every  thing  before  us  was  involved  in  gloomy  doubt. 
Hopeful  as  I  had  been,  it  was  impossible  not  to  feel 
that  we  were  near  the  climax  of  the  expedition. 

I  determined  to  place    upon   Observatory  Island  a 


SIGN  A  I.     ("  A  I  U  X. 


845 


pe  of  Cliar- 
(i  launclK'd 
Avliicli    the 
icrwlsG    lui- 
'ommaiidin.ti; 
vare :  in  the 
t  h)()ked  de- 
2  other  side, 
ided   a  high 
discouraging 

\Uen." 

Lad  disclosed, 
r  of  reaching 
the  American 
le  continuous 
n  it  for  many 
extent  before 
The  water- 
were  freezing 
water-surfice 
s  clear  to  me 
istances,  such 
cave  the  ship 
istitute  of  re- 
illicult,  if  not 

gloomy  doubt. 

de  not  to  feel 
)edition. 
atory  Tslaud  a 


larii'e  siiinal-beacon  or  ciiirn,  and  to  bury  under  it  docu- 
ments  which,  in  case  of  disaster  to  our  party,  would 
conyey  to  any  who  might  seek  us  intelligence  of  our 
proceedings  and  our  fate.  The  memory  of  the  hrst 
winter  quarters  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  and  the  painful 
feelings  with  which,  while  standing  by  the  graves  of 
his  dead,  I  had  five  years  before  sought  for  written 
signs  pointing  to  the  fate  of  the  living,  made  me  care- 
ful to  avoid  a  similar  nej'lect. 

A  conspicuous  spot  was  selected  upon  a  cliif  looking 
out  upon  the  icy  desert,  and  on  a  broad  face  of  rock 
the  words 

ADVANCE, 

A.  D.  185:!-r)4, 

were  painted  in  letters  which  could  be  read  at  a  dis- 
tance. A  pyramid  of  heavy  stones,  ])erclied  above  it. 
was  marked  with  the  Christian  symbol  of  the  cross. 
It  was  not  without  a  holier  sentiment  than  that  of 
mere  utility  that  I  placed  under  this  the  coflins  of  our 
two  poor  comrades.  It  was  our  beacon  and  their 
gravestone. 

Near  tlii>  a  hole  was  worked  into  the  rock,  and  a 
pap«>r,  enclosed  in  glass,  sealed  in  with  melted  lead. 

It  read  as  follows  : — 

"Brig  Advanci;,  August  14,  1854. 

"E.  K.  Kane,  with  his  comrades  Henry  Brooks, 
John  Wall  Wilson,  James  McGary,  J.  J.  Jltiyes,  Chris- 
tian Ohlsen,  Amos  Bonsall,  Ihir.^-  Goodfellow,  August 
Soutag,    William    Morton,    J.   Carl    Petersen,    George 


Ir ' 


t 

,  1' 

j: 

1 

'    1 

! 

:;  !: 


J  i  k 


i,    ■■  ' 


>'  .;'■ 


]■      ■  I 


'! 


y  1 


I;'  t 


'.  ■  ( 


li 


:'    (■■ 


!  ':  J\ 


,'  I 


■;' 

i.  1  ti' 

* 

ll 

i   'f 

■  .    ;" 

' 

:i 

) 

:■[,  kJ.,' 

i 

!  '  Hff^-j 

■ 

II 

ll^ 

346 


THE      K  EC  OKI). 


Stephenson  J  Jefferson  Temple  Baker,  George  Kiley, 
Peter  Schubert,  George  Whippk',  John  Bhike,  Thonuiis 
Hickey,  William  Godfrey,  and  Ilans  Cristian,  mem- 
bers of  the  Second  Grinnell  Expedition  in  search  of 
Sir  Jolin  Franklin  and  the  missing  crews  of  the  Erebus 
and  Terror,  were  forced  into  this  harbor  while  endea- 
voring to  bore  the  ice  to  the  north  and  east. 

'•  They  were  frozen  in  on  the  8th  of  September, 
185o,  and  liberated  

"  During  this  period  the  labors  of  the  expedition 
have  delineated  nine  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  coiist- 
line,  without  developing  any  traces  of  the  missing  ships 
or  the  slightest  information  bearing  upon  their  fate. 
The  amount  of  travel  to  effect  this  exploration  ex- 
ceeded two  thousand  miles,  all  of  which  was  upon  foot 
or  l)v  the  aid  of  doss. 

"Greenland  has  1)een  traced  to  its  northern  face, 
whence  it  is  connected  v.itli  the  iarther  north  of  the 
opposite  coast  by  a  great  glacier.  This  coast  has  been 
charted  as  high  as  hit.  8l>°  2?.  Smith's  Sound  ex- 
pands into  a  capacious  bay:  it  has  been  surveyed 
tlirou2;hout  its  entire  extent.  From  its  northern  and 
eastern  corner,  in  lat.  80°  10',  long.  06°,  a  channel  has 
been  discovered  and  followed  until  farther  progress 
was  checked  by  water  free  from  ice.  This  channel 
trended  nearly  due  north,  and  expanded  into  an  appa- 
rently open  sea,  which  abounded  with  birds  and  bears 
and  marine  life. 

''  The  death  of  the  dogs  during  the  winter  threw 
the  travel  essential  to  the  above  discoveries  upon  the 


rge  Riley, 
x>,  Tlioiiuijs 
:ian,  ineiu- 
L  search  of 
the  Erehiis 
hile  endea- 

September, 

expedition 
les  of  coiist- 
lissiiig  ships 
I  their  fate, 
iloration  ex- 
'as  upon  foot 

)rthevn  face, 
north  of  the 
ast  has  been 
s  Sound  ex- 
en  surveyed 
northern  and 

channel  has 
her  progress 
This  channel 
into  an  appa- 

ds  and  bears 

winter  threw 


vies  upon 


the 


T  11  K     i:  !■;(()  K  I). 


"  1  "* 
o4i 


personal  eirorts  of  the  oilicers  and  men.  Tlie  summer 
linds  them  much  broken  in  lieallh  and  strenuth. 

"Jell'erson  Temple  Baker  and  Peter  Schubert  died 
from  injuries  received  from  cold  while  in  manly  per- 
formance of  their  duty.  Their  remains  are  de[)osiled 
iindev  a  cairn  at  the  north  point  of  Observatory  Island. 

'•The  site  of  the  observatorv  is  seventy-six  Eni;li>!i 
feet  from  the  northernmost  salient  point  of  this  island, 
in  a  direction  S.  14°  E.  Its  position  is  in  hit.  78°  o7' 
10",  long.  70°  -10'.  Tlie  mean  tidal  levid  is  twenty- 
nine  leet  below  the  highest  point  upon  this  island. 
Both  of  these  sites  are  further  designated  by  cop})er 
bolts  sealed  with  melted  lead  into  holes  upon  the 
rocks. 

'•On  the  12th  of  August,  IS-jl,  th-    -^rig  warped  from 

her  position,   and,  after   passing   inside    the   group  of 

islands,  fastenetl  to  the  outer  Hoe  about  a  mile  to  the 

northwest,  where  she  is  now  awaiting  further  changes 

in  the  ice. 

"E.  K.  Kaxe, 


''  Signed, 


"Commanding  Kxpodition. 
''Fox-Trap  Point,  August  14,  1854." 

Some  hours  later,  the  following  note  wa.]  added. 

"'  The  voun<>'  i(*e  having  formed  between  the  briir 
and  this  island,  and  prospects  of  a  gale  showing  them- 
selves, the  date  of  departure  is  left  unlilled.  If  pos- 
sible, a  second  visit  will  be  made  to  insert  our  dates, 
our  final  esciipe  being  still  dependent  upon  the  course 
of  the  season.  E.  K.  Kaxk." 


If 


i" 


»      5 

J.    ^' 


'I 


,    '■!    1, 


I      •■ 


!    i''  ■ 


'I' ill' 


tl|^ 


rtp 


,li 


!•  i;  O.I  i;  (•  T  K  !>     w 


II  I)  i;  A  w  A  I, 


;\M; 


And  now  ciiinc  llic  (incstlon  oi'  llic  second  wlnlci": 
how  lo  look  our  cncmv  in  Ilic  liicc.  and  liow  l(»  meet 
liiiii.  Anv  tliiiii!,'  NVMS  hctlcr  lliiin  iimclion;  ;ind.  in  spite 
ol'tlie  nncei'tMinly  wliieli  vel  ;itlende(l  our  phms,  ;i  host 
ol'expedients  were  lo  he  resorhMl  (o,  mikI  much  llohlnson 
Crusoe  lahor  idieaiL  Moss  was  lo  he  iialhered  for  ekill^ 
on!  our  winler  fneh  and  willow-slems  and  slonecrops 
and  sorrel,  as  aniiscorhnlics,  collecled  and  hmied  in 
Ihe  snow.  Ihil  while  all  these  were  in  [iroiiress  eainc 
other  and  trraNcr  (iiieslions. 

Some  of  mv  i)artv  had  entertained  the  idea  that  an 
escape  to  tiie  .south  was  still  practicahle;  and  tliis 
o|)inion  was  supported  hv  .Mr.  Petersen,  our  Danisli 
inlerpi'cter,  who  had  accompaiued  the  SearchiiiLV  lv\pe- 
dilion  or('ai»lain  I'ennv.  and  had  a  matured  expt'riemc 
in  the  chanp's  of  Arctic  ice.  They  e\-en  thought  that 
Ihe  salety  of  all  would  he  promoted  hy  a  withdrawal 
IVom  the  hri,Li,'. 

••August  ill,  Monday. — The  (pieslion  of  detaching' a 
party  was  in  my  mind  some  time  auo;  hut  the  more  1 
thou<;lil  it  over,  Ihe  more  1  was  convinced  thai  it  would 
\)v  neither  rijzht  in  itsidl'nor  practically  sale.  For  iiiy- 
seir  personally,  it  is  a  simple  duly  of  honor  to  remain 
hy  the  hriu':  I  could  not  Ihiidv  of  lea\iu_u'  her  till  1  had 
proved  Ihe  elVcct  of  Ihe  lalei'  tides;  and  after  thai,  as  1 
have  known  all  alonii,',  it  would  he  too  late. —  (,4)inc 
what  may.  1  share  her  lorlunes. 

"IJut  it  is  a.  dilVerent  (piestion  with  my  associ- 
ates. 1  cannot  expect  them  lo  adopt  my  impulses; 
and  I  am  l)\  no  means  sure  that  I  ouuht  to  hold  them 


(  ( 


T  II  !:    o  I  i;>  1  1 1»  x, 


111 


■'!i 

~ 

11(1  winter: 
)\v  !•>   iiifct 
i\(l,  ill  spite 
aus,  !l  ll<'^^t 
li  ll()l»iiis()ii 
.(I  lor  clsiiri 
^^|oll('^•^ol)^ 
1    l»init'*l    ill 
)o'i'('ss   cauie 

(lea  that  an 
c;  and  this 
onr  Danish 
i-ehini."^  Kxpe- 
.(1  cxperieiuc 
thonuht  tliat 
I  \vithilra\v:il 

(Ictacliin.u'  '^^ 
the  inori'  1 
th.al  it  wonld 
!'(..  For  inv- 
lor  to  remain 
her  till  I  li:id 
rter  that,  as  I 


in\ 


tssoci- 


in\-   impulses; 
to  hold  them 


bound  hv  iiiv  ('oii(dnsioiis.  Ilasc  I  the  iiionil  rhjlil f  for, 
as  to  nautical  rules,  tlie\'  do  not  lit  the  eireiiin.stanees: 
anioni;'  the  whalers,  when  a  ship  is  liop(dessl\  heset, 
the  master's  anthoritv  ,i:ives  wav.  and  the  crew  take 
(••oimscd  Tor  (heinscdves  whether  to  jio  or  stay  l)\  her. 
i\ly  J>i»rty  is  snhoi'dinale  and  W(dl  disp  ised;  i»ul  it"  the 
restlessness  ol"  snlVerinj^'  makes  some  of  them  anxious 
to  hra\t'  the  (diunces,  the\  nia\  eertainU'  i)lead  that  a 
second  winter  in  the  ice  was  no  [)arl  of  the  cruise  they 
haruained  Tor. 

"  l>ul  what  presses  on  me  is  of  another  (diaracter.  I 
cannot  disLiuise  it  iVoin  in\S(dl'  that  we  are  wret(die(llv 
|)repared  Inr  another  winter  on  hoard.     We  are  a  set  ol" 


1»- 


sciir\  \-ri(i(lle( 


l(ll( 


l)roi\en-(lo\\  11    men;    oiir   |)ro\isi()ns  an 


sored}  reduced  in  (piantily.  and  are  altogether  nnsiiited 
to  our  condition.  My  onl_\  hope  of  maintaiiiin.i;'  or 
restoring  siudi  a  decree  ol"  health  ainoii,ii,'  us  as  is  indis- 
peiisahle  to  our  esca[)e  in  the  spring  has  heeii  and  muat 
he  in  a,  wholesome  elastic  toiu^  oi"  fending  among  the 
men:  a,  reluctant,  brooding,  disheartened  si)irit  would 
sweep  our  decks  like  a  pestilence.     I  fear  the  bane  of 


(lenressiiiii'  exainu 


lie. 


I  1 


kiiow  a 


Utl 


us  as  ji  inc 


dical 


man  and  an  o 


)  nicer 


and  1  feel  that  we  might  be  wearing  aw^ay  the  hearts 
and  energies,  if  not  the  lives  of  all,  by  forcing  those 
who  were  reluctant  to  remain.  With  half  a  dozen  con- 
liiling  resolute  men,  L  have  no  fears  of  ultimate  safety. 
"1  will  make  a  thorough  inspection  of  the  ice  to 
iiiorrow,  and  decide  linally  the  [)rospects  of  our 
liberation. 


i  i 


1^ 


t    : 


»    't 


M 


l':f;|* 


'it'.      I 


\ 


350 


THE      DETEli  M  I  \  A  T  1  0  X, 


ui 


I.  I'-', 


;  1,  1: 


"August  L^'),  Wodiu'sdav. — 'Huj  hrig'  canuftt  cscapo. 
I  got  an  eligible  position  with  my  sledge  to  review  the 
iloes.  and  returned  this  morning  nt  two  o'elock.  There 
is  no  possibility  oi' our  release,  unless  by  some  extreme 
intervention  of  the  eoming  tides.  I  doubt  whether  a 
boat  eould  be  forced  as  tar  as  the  Southern  Water. 
When  1  think  of  the  extraordinai'v  wav  in  ^vliich  tlie 
ice  was  impacted  last  winter,  how  very  litth'  it  has 
yielded  through  the  summer,  and  how  early  another 
winter  is  i.  laking  its  onset  u[)on  us,  I  am  very  doubtful, 
indeed,  whether  our  brig  can  get  away  at  all.  It  would 
be  inexpedient  to  attemi)t  leaving  her  now  in  boats; 
the  water-streams  closing,  the  pack  nearly  fast  aguin. 
and  the  young  ice  almost  impenetrable. 

'•  I  shall  call  the  ollicer.s  and  crew  together,  and  make 
known  to  them  very  I'ullv  how  thinus  look,  and  what 
hazards  nuist  attend  such  an  eflbrt  as  has  been  proposed 
among  them.  They  shall  have  my  views  une([uiv()(ally 
expressed.  I  will  then  give  them  twenty-four  iiours  to 
deliberate;  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  all  Avho  deter- 
mine to  <io  shall  sav  so  in  WTitini*',  with  a  full  exi)osi- 
tion  of  the  circumstances  of  the  case.  The}'  shall  have 
the  best  outfit  I  can  uive,  an  abundant  share  of  fiii- 
remaining  stores,  and  my  good-bye  ))lessing. 

''Aun'ust  24,  Thursdav. — At  noon  to-(hn-  1  had  all 
hands  called,  and  explained  to  them  frankly  the  consi- 
derations which  have  determined  me  to  remain  where 
we  are.  1  endeavored  to  show  them  that  an  escape 
to  open  water  could  not  succeed,  and  that  the  eOort 
must    be    exceedinulv   hazardous:    1    alluded    to    our 


av  I  liiid  all 
dv  the  couA- 
remiiin  ^vluM•e 
lilt  an  oscaiu' 
hat  the  eftbvt 
uded    to    our 


T  II  K     K  i:  s  r  L  T. 


:i;jl 


(hitit's  to  the  sliij):  in  a  word.  I  ndviscd  thcni  strcimoiisly 
to  I'oicuo  tlic  [H'ojt'ct.  I  (lien  told  tlicm  tliat  I  slioiild 
iVcoK  :^iv('  inv  ncnnission  to  such  iis  were  dcsii-ous  of 
making  tho  ;ittc'ni[»t,  hut  tliiit  I  sliouhl  n'([uirc  them  to 
place  themselves  under  the  couiuiand  of  ollicers  selected 
by  them  hel'orc  setting  out,  and  to  renouuce  in  writiug 
all  (daims  u[)(m  myself  and  the  rest  who  were  resolved 
to  stay  h\'  the  vessel.  IlaviiiL;'  doue  this,  I  directe(l  the 
roll  to  he  called,  and  I'aeh  man  to  answer  lor  hiuisell". ' 

Tn  the  result,  eight  out  of  the  seventeen  survivors  of 
mv  i)artv  resolved  to  stand  1)V  the  hriii".  It  is  iust  that 
I  should  reeord  their  names.  They  were  IFem-y  Brooks. 
James  MeGary,  J.  W.  Wilson.  Henry  Cioodfellow.  Wil- 
liam Morton,  (christian  Ohlsen,  Thouias  lliekey,  JIans 
Cristian. 

I  divided  to  the  others  their  portion  of  our  resources 
justl}'  and  even  lil)erally;  and  they  left  us  on  Monday, 
the  28tli,  with  every  appliance  our  narrow  circum- 
stances conld  furnish  to  speed  and  gutn'd  them.  One 
of  them,  George  Riley,  retnrned  a  few  days  afterward; 
l)ut  weary  months  went  hy  hefore  we  saw  the  rest 
ni]i;ain.  They  carried  with  them  a  Avritten  assurance  of 
a  Ijrother's  Aveleomc  should  they  he  driven  hack;  and 
this  assurance  was  redeemed  wdien  hard  trials  had  pre- 
pared them  to  share  again  our  fortunes. 


f ' 


i  I 


lit 


'  'i 


t-:\ 


m. 


i;^- 


h.\ 


I ' " 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

DISCIPLINE  —  BUILDINa  IGLOE  —  TOSSUT  —  MOSSING  —  AFTER  SEAL 
— ON  THE  YOUNG  ICE  —  GOING  TOO  FAR  —  SEALS  AT  HOME  —  IN 
THE    WATER — IN    SAFETY — DEATH   OF   TIGER. 

The  party  moved  off  with  the  ehistic  step  of  men 
conliilent  in  their  purpose,  und  were  out  of  si«2,ht  in  a 
few  hours.  As  we  lost  them  among  the  hummocks,  the 
stern  realities  of  our  condition  pressed  themselves  u[)()ii 
us  anew.  The  reducc;d  numbers  of  our  party,  the  help- 
lessness of  many,  the  waning  elFiciency  of  all,  the  im- 
pending winter  with  its  cold,  dark  night,  our  penury 
of  resources,  the  dreary  sense  of  increased  isolation, — 
these  made  the  staple  of  our  thoughts.  For  a  time.  Sir 
John  Franklin  and  his  party,  our  daily  topic  through 
so  many  months,  gave  place  to  the  question  of  our  own 
fortunes, — how  we  were  to  escape,  how  to  live.     The 

summer  had  gone,  the   harvest  was  ended,   and 

We  did  not  care  to  iinish  the  sentence. 

Following  close  on  this  gloomy  train,  and  in  fact 
blending  with  it,  came  the  more  important  discussion 
of  our  duties.  We  were  like  men  driven  to  the  wall, 
quickened,  not  depressed.     Our  plans  were  formed  at 

352 


F)  [  S(M  I'  F.  F  \  K. 


363 


oiico :  tliore  in  notliiiij^  likt'  cmciL^i'iicy  to  speed,  if  not 
to  instruct,  the  energie>. 

It  was  my  lirst  dellnite  resolve  that,  come  vvliiit  nii;^iit, 
our  orgjinizution  and  its  routine  jI'  observances  should 
be  adliered  to  Htrictly.  It  is  the  experience  of  every 
man  wIm)  has  either  combated  difliculties  himself  or 
attempted  to  ^uide  otijers  through  them,  that  the  con- 
trolling law  >3iall  be  systematic  action.  Nothing  de- 
presses and  demoralizes  so  much  as  a  surrender  of  the 
ap[)!<)ved  and  lialntual  forms  of  life.  I  resolved  that 
every  thing  should  go  on  as  it  had  done.  The  arrange- 
ment of  hours,  the  distribution  and  details  of  duty,  the 
religious  exercises,  the  ceremonials  of  the  table,  the 
lires,  the  lights,  the  watch,  even  the  labors  of  tlie 
observatory  and  the  notation  of  the  tides  and  the 
sky, — nothing  should  be  intermitted  that  had  contri- 
buted to  make  up  the  day. 

My  next  was  to  practise  on  the  lessons  we  had 
learned  from  the  Esquimaux.  I  had  studied  them 
carefully,  and  determined  that  their  form  of  habita- 
tions and  their  peculiarities  of  diet,  without  their 
unthrift  and  filth,  were  the  safest  and  l)est  to  which 
the  necessity  of  our  circumstances  invited  us. 

My  journal  tells  how  these  resolves  were  carried 
out: — 

"  September  G,  Wednesday. — We  are  at  it,  all  hands, 
sick  and  well,  each  man  according  to  his  measure, 
workini]?  at  our  winter's  home.  We  are  none  of  us 
in  condition  to  brave  the  frost,  and  our  fuel  is  nearly 

Vol.  I.— 23 


.      ' 


ir 


i  •' 


IV. 


ii'    5 


'  I  s 


in 

1 

^ 

1 

1 

1 
- 

I 

i 

1 

) 

( 

|! 
1 

}  ! 

^^ 


;jGi 


i;  I   I  1. 1>  I  N  (;     1  (•  I.o  K 


out.      I  liiivc  (li'tcriiiiiicd  to  Ijoitow  a  lesson  iVoin  onr 
Esqiiiiiiniix  iici.LiIihors,  and  am  tuniing  the  brig  into  an 

"Tlic  slcdiic  is  to  liriiiji'  us  moss  and  turf  IVoiii 
whcM'i'Vcr  the  men  ciin  s('rii|K'  it.  This  is  an  oxcollcnt 
non-con(hi('tor;    and    wlicn    wv.    get    the    (luartcr-dcck 


GATHERING     MOSb. 


well  padded  with  it  we  shall  have  a  nearly  cold-proof 
covering.  Down  below  we  will  enclose  a  space  some 
eighteen  feet  square,  and  pack  it  from  floor  to  ceiling 
with  inner  walls  of  the  same  material.  The  il(jor  itself 
we  are  calking  carefully  with  plaster  of  Paris  and 
common  paste,  and  will  cover  it  when  Ave  have  done 
with   Manilla  oakum  a  couple  of  inches  deep,  and  i\ 


M 


Till;     TOSS  r  T  —  M  O  S  S  1  N  G. 


355 


:( 


)ii  iVoni  oiir 


canvas  car[)(t.  'I'Ik'  riitraiicc  is  to  be  from  the  hold, 
by  M  low  iii()ss-liii('(l  tunnel,  the  tihssul  of  (lie  native 
huts,  with  as  nnmy  doors  and  cnrtiiins  to  close  it  up  as 
our  ingenuity  ean  devise.  This  is  to  he  our  a[)iirtnieiit 
of  all  uses, — not  a  very  larjj^e  one;  but  we  are  only  ten 
to  stow  iivviiy,  and  the  eloser  the  wanner. 

"8epivml)er  9,  Saturday. — All  hands  but  the  ear- 
jK'iiter  and  Morton  are  out  'mossing.'  This  niossinj;, 
thouub  it  has  a  very  May-day  sound,  is  a  frightfully 
wintry  operation.  The  mixed  turf  of  willows,  heaths, 
grasses,  and  moss,  is  frozen  solid.  We  cannot  cut  it  out 
from  the  })eds  of  the  snow-streams  nny  longer,  and  are 
obliged  to  seek  for  it  on  the  ledges  of  the  rocks,  (piarry- 
ing  it  with  crowbars  and  carrying  it  to  the  ship  like 
80  much  stone.  I  would  escape  this  labor  if  I  could, 
for  our  party  have  all  of  them  more  or  less  scurvy  in 
their  systems,  and  the  thermometer  is  often  below  zero. 
But  there  is  no  help  for  it.  I  have  some  eight  sledge- 
loads  more  to  collect  before  our  little  home  can  be 
called  wind-proof:  and  then,  if  we  only  have  snow 
enough  to  bank  up  against  the  l^rig  s  sides,  I  shall  have 
no  fear  either  for  height  or  uniformity  of  temperature. 

"September  10,  Sunday. — 'The  work  goes  bravely 
on.'  We  have  got  moss  enough  for  our  roof,  and  some- 
thing to  spare  for  below.  To-morrow  we  begin  to  strip 
off  the  outer-deck  planking  of  the  brig,  and  to  stack  it 
for  fh'ewood.  It  is  cold  work,  hatches  open  and  no 
fires  going ;  but  we  saved  time  enough  for  our  Sunday's 
exercises,  though  we  forego  its  rest. 

"It  is  twelve  months  to-day  since  I  returned  from 


1  I 
I 


!,i 


I  I 


\ 


1 


:m 


I 

ill 


If     -I 


■    i  r 


u 


356 


G  A  >r  E     D  E  C  U  E  A  S  I  X  G. 


the  weary  foot-trainp  that  determined  me  to  try  the 
winter  search.  Things  have  changed  since  then,  and 
the  prospect  ahead  is  less  cheery.  But  I  close  my 
pilgrim-experience  of  the  year  with  devout  gratitude 
for  the  blessings  it  has  registered,  and  an  earnest  faith 
in  the  support  it  pledges  for  the  times  to  come. 

''September  11,  Monday. — Our  stock  of  game  is 
down  to  a  mere  mouthful, — six  long-tailed  ducks  not 
larger  than  a  partridge,  and  three  ptarmigan.  The 
raljbits  have  not  yet  come  to  us,  an-d  the  foxes  seem 
tired  of  touching  our  trap-baits. 

'*  I  determined  last  Saturday  to  try  a  novel  expedient 
for  catching  seal.  Not  more  than  ten  miles  to  seaward 
the  icebergs  keep  up  a  rude  stream  of  broken  ice  [ind 
water,  and  the  seals  resort  there  in  scanty  numbers  to 
l)reathe.  I  drove  out  with  my  dogs,  taking  Hans 
along ;  but  we  found  the  spot  so  hemmed  in  by  loose 
and  fragile  ice  that  there  was  no  approaching  it.  The 
thermometer  was  8°,  and  a  light  breeze  increased  my 
difficulties. 

"Deo  volenfe,  I  will  be  more  lucky  to-morrow.  I  am 
going  to  take  my  long  Kentucky  rifle,  the  kayack,  an 
Esquimaux  harpoon  with  its  attached  line  and  bladder. 
nah'gelt  and  aioaJitok,  and  a  pair  of  large  snow-shoes  to 
boot.  My  plan  this  time  is  to  kneel  where  the  ice  is 
unsafe,  resting  my  weight  on  the  broad  surface  of  the 
snow-shoes,  Hans  following  astride  of  his  kayack,  as  a 
sort  of  life-preserver  in  case  of  breaking  in.  If  I  am 
fortunate  enough  to  stalk  within  gun-range,  Hans  will 
take  to  the  water  and  secure  the  ffame  before  it  sinks. 


migan.     Tliu 
LC  foxes  seem 


norrdw.     I  am 
■he  kayack,  an 
le  and  bladder. 
!  snow-shoes  to 
here  the  ice  is 
I  surface  of  the 
lis  kayack,  as  a 
ig  in.     If  I  am 
ange,  Hans  will 
before  it  sinks. 


A  1'  T  i:  i;    .-  r:  a  i. 


O'JI 


We  will  be  gone  for  some  days  probably,  tenting  it  in 
the  open  air;  but  our  sick  men — that  is  to  say,  all 
ol'  us — are  languishing  for  fresh  meat." 

I  started  with  Hans  and  five  dogs,  all  we  could 
iiuister  from  our  disabled  pack,  and  reaehed  the  "  Pin- 
nacly  IJerg"  in  a  single  hour's  run,  15ut  where  was 
the  water'.'  where  were  the  seal?    The  Hoes  liad  cIosimL 


v-o^ssi^ 


i'AH^     SG      TO      M^N 


and  the  crushed  ice  was  all  that  told  of  our  intended 
iuni  ting-ground. 

Ascending  a  berg,  however,  we  could  see  to  the 
north  and  west  the  dark  cloud-stratus  which  betokens 
water.  It  ran  through  our  old  battle-ground,  the  -  Bergy 
Belt," — the  labvrinth  of  our  wanderings  after  the  frozen 
party  of  last  winter.  I  had  not  been  over  it  since,  and 
the  feelinfj;  it  gave  me  was  anv  thing  but  jovous. 


1! 


I  \<  '■ 


I     1 

I    If 


!^i 


i 


i  v.'l 


if  i,. 


1! 


I  :t 


1  r 


>4: 


¥ 


I 


''      ■; 


358 


THE     rCE-PLAlN. 


But  in  a  couplo  of  hours  we  emerged  upon  a  plain 
unlimited  to  the  eye  and  smooth  as  a  l)illiard-tid)l(v 
Feathers  of  young  frosting  gave  a  plush-like  nap  to  its 
surface,  and  toward  the  horizon  dark  columns  of  frost- 
smoke  pointed  clearly  to  the  open  water.  This  ice  was 
firm  enough  :  our  experience  satisfied  us  that  it  was 
not  a  very  recent  freezing.     We    pushed  on  without 


fi^i 


^«a■^■*»* "  :(^^^t 


j^^^z^mm^ 


•I 


THl       iClPLAiN 


hesitation,  cheering  ourselves  with  the  expectation  of 
coming  every  minute  to  the  seals.  We  passed  a 
second  ice-growth  :  it  was  not  so  strong  as  the  one  we 
had  just  come  over,  hut  still  safe  for  a  party  like  ours. 
On  we  went,  at  a  brisker  gallop,  maybe  for  another 
mile,  when  Hans  sang  out,  at  the  top  of  his  voice, 
"Pusey!  puseymut !  seal,  seal!"  At  the  same  instant 
the  dogs  bounded  forward,  and,  as  I  looked  up,  I  saw 


^  ■. 


()  \    T  II  K    vo  u  xr,    ic  }•:. 


359 


crowds  of  ,^Tay  lu'tsik,  the  i-ou.uli  or  liisj)i(l  seal  of  the 
whalers,  (lis[)ortin<»'  in  an  open  sea  of  watcM*. 

I  liad  hardly  welcomed  tlu;  sjjectacle  when  I  saw 
that  we  had  passed  upon  a  new  belt  of  ice  that  was 
obviously  unsafe.  To  the  right  and  left  and  iront  was 
one  great  expanse  of  snow-tlowered  ice.  The  nearest 
solid  lloe  was  a  mere  lump,  which  stood  like  an  island 
in  the  white  level.  To  turn  was  impossible  :  we  had 
to  keep  up  our  gait.     We  urged  on  the  dogs  with  whip 


«ijji<iiinriwiiji»i 


JFIL'^      SPO'.'     \. 


and  voice,  the  ice  rolling  like  leather  beneath  the 
sledge-runners :  it  was  more  than  a  mile  to  the  lump 
of  solid  ice.  Fear  gave  to  the  poor  beasts  their  utmost 
speed,  and  our  voices  were  soon  hushed  to  silence. 

The  suspense,  unrelieved  by  action  or  effort,  was  in- 
tolerable :  we  knew  that  there  w^as  no  remedy  but  to 
reach  the  lloe,  and  that  every  thing  depended  upon 
our  dogs,  and  our  dogs  alone.  A  moment's  check 
would  plunge  the  whole  concern  into  the  rapid  tide- 
way :  no  presence  of  mind  or  resource  bodily  or  mental 
could   avail   us.     The   seals — for   we    were  now  near 


Km 


/;' 


\l  m 


li 


m 


'  f  . 

'Mi 

ill}  I.  I: 


r  :" 


it 


3G0 


IN      THE      WATER. 


enough  to  sec  their  expressive  faces — were  looking  at 
ns  with  that  strange  curiosity  wliich  seems  to  be  their 
characteristic  expression :  we  must  have  passed  some 
fifty  of  them,  breast-high  out  of  water,  mocking  us  by 
their  self-complacency. 

This  desperate  race  against  fate  could  not  last : 
the  rolling  of  the  tough  salt-water  ice  terrified  our 
dogs;  and  when  within  fifty  paces  from  the  floe 
they  paused.  The  left-hand  runner  went  through : 
our  leader  "  Toodlamick"  followed,  and  in  one  second 
the  entire  left  of  the  sledge  was  submerged.  My 
first  tliought  was  to  liberate  the  dogs.  I  leaned  for- 
ward to  cut  poor  Tood's  traces,  and  the  next  minute 
was  swimming  in  a  little  circle  of  pasty  ice  and  water 
alongside  him.  Hans,  dear  good  fellow,  drew  near  to 
help  me,  uttering  piteous  expressions  in  broken  Eng- 
lish ;  but  I  ordered  him  to  throw  himself  on  his  belly, 
with  his  hands  and  legs  extended,  and  to  make  for 
the  island  by  cogging  himself  forward  with  his  jack- 
knife.  In  the  mean  time  —  a  mere  instant — I  was 
floundering  about  with  sledge,  dogs,  and  lines,  in  con- 
fused puddle  around  me. 

I  succeeded  in  cutting  poor  Tood's  lines  and  letting 
him  scramble  to  the  ice,  for  the  poor  fellow  was  drown- 
ing me  with  his  piteous  caresses,  and  made  my  way  for 
the  sledge ;  but  I  found  that  it  would  not  buoy  me,  and 
that  I  had  no  resource  but  to  try  the  circumference  of 
the  hole.  Around  this  I  paddled  faithfully,  the  miser- 
able ice  always  yielding  when  my  hopes  of  a  lodge- 
ment were  greatest.     During  this  process  I  enlarged 


\' 


looking  at 
to  be  their 
^ssed  some 
us  by 


king 


.    not   last: 
^rrified  our 
n    the    iloo 
it  through : 
one  second 
n'ged.      jNIy 
leaned  for- 
lext  minute 
;e  and  water 
rew  near  to 
jroken  Eng- 
on  his  belly, 
to  make  for 
th  his  jack- 
ant —  I  was 
lines,  in  con- 

s  and  letting 
V  was  drown- 
e  my  way  for 
buoy  me,  and 
umference  of 
ly,  tlic  mi.ser- 
s  of  a  lodge- 
5s  I  enlarged 


SAFELY     LANDED. 


3G1 


my  circle  of  o])erati()ns  to  a  very  uncomfortal)k'  dia- 
meter, and  was  beginning  to  feel  weaker  after  every 
effort.  Hans  meanwhile  had  reached  the  firm  ice,  and 
was  on  his  knees,  like  a  good  Moravian,  prating  inco- 
herently in  English  and  Esquimaux ;  at  every  fresli 
crusl.'ing-in  of  the  ice  he  would  ejaculate  '•  God !"  and 
when  I  recommenced  my  paddling  he  reconnnenced 
his  prayers. 

I  was  nearly  gone.  My  knife  had  l)een  lost  in 
cutting  out  the  dogs;  and  a  S2)are  one  which  I  carried 
in  my  trousers-pocket  was  so  enveloped  in  the  wet 
skins  that  I  could  not  reach  it.  I  owed  my  extrication 
at  last  to  a  newly-broken  team-dog,  who  was  still  last 
to  the  sledge  and  in  struggling  carried  one  of  the  run- 
ners chock  against  the  edge  of  the  circle.  All  my  pre- 
vious attempts  to  use  the  sledge  as  a  bridge  had  failed, 
for  it  broke  through,  to  the  much  greater  injury  of  the 
ice.  I  felt  that  it  was  a  last  chance.  I  threw  nivseif 
on  my  Ixick,  so  as  to  lessen  as  much  as  possible  m}' 
weight,  and  placed  the  nape  of  my  neck  against  the 
rim  or  edge  of  the  ico;  then  witli  caution  slowly  bent 
my  leg,  and,  placing  the  ball  of  my  moccasined  foot 
against  the  sledge,  I  pressed  steadily  against  the  run- 
ner, listening  to  the  half-yielding  crunch  of  the  ice 
beneath. 

Presently  I  felt  that  my  head  was  pillowed  by  the 
ice,  and  that  my  wet  fur  jumper  was  sliding  u[)  tlie 
surface.  Next  came  my  shoulders;  they  were  fairly  on. 
One  more  decided  push,  and  I  was  launched  u[)  on  the 
ice  and  safe.     I  reached  the  ice-Hoe,  and  Avas  frictioned 


■r-rl: 


■:] 


I 


'h       1 


if;  r 


i 

I 

V 


•A 


)    '  I  • 


302 


DEATH     OF     TIGER. 


•  I 


:>  /,  i 


1  '  I 


I     «, 


by  Iljins  with  frightful  zeal.  We  saved  all  the  dogs; 
but  the  sledge,  kayack,  tent,  guns,  snow-shoes,  and 
every  thing  besides,  were  left  behind.  The  thermo- 
meter at  8°  will  keep  them  frozen  fast  in  the  sledge 
till  we  can  come  and  cut  them  out. 

On  reaching  the  ship,  after  a  twelve-mile  trot,  I 
found  so  much  of  comfort  and  warm  welcome  that  1 
ibrgot  my  failure.  The  fire  was  lit  up,  and  one  of  our 
few  birds  slaughtered  forthwith.  It  is  with  real  grati- 
tude that  I  look  back  upon  my  escape,  and  bless  the 
great  presiding  Goodness  for  the  very  many  resources 
which  remain  to  us. 

"September  14,  Thursday. — Tiger,  our  best  remain- 
ing dog,  the  partner  of  poor  Bruiser,  was  seized  with  a 
lit,  ominously  resembling  the  last  winter's  curse.  In 
the  delirium  which  followed  his  seizure,  he  ran  into  the 
water  and  drowned  himself,  like  a  sailor  with  the  hor- 
rors.    The  other  dogs  are  all  doing  well." 


II 


I,  :i]! 


1'     I 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


THE    ESQUIMAUX  —  LARCENY  —  THE    ARREST  —  TlIK    PUNISHMENT  — 


THE    TREATY — "  UNBROKEN    FAITH' 


MY    BROTHER  —  RETURN 


FROM    A    HUNT  —  OUR    LIFE  —  ANOATOK — A    WELCOME  —  TREATY 
CONFIRMED. 

It  is,  I  suppose,  the  fortune  of  every  one  who  pfFects 
to  register  the  story  of  an  active  life,  that  his  record 
becomes  briefer  and  more  imperfect  in  proportion  as 
the  incidents  press  upon  each  other  more  rapidly  and 
with  increasing  excitement.  The  narrative  is  arrested 
as  soon  as  the  faculties  are  claimed  for  action,  and  the 
memory  brings  back  reluctantly  afterward  those  details 
which,  though  interesting  at  the  moment,  have  not  re- 
flected themselves  in  the  result.  I  fin'  that  my  journal 
is  exceedingly  meagre  for  the  period  of  our  anxious 
preparations  to  meet  the  winter,  and  that  I  have 
omitted  to  mention  the  course  of  circumstances  which 
led  us  step  by  step  into  familiar  communication  with 
the  Esquimaux. 

My  last  notice  of  this  strange  people,  whose  for- 
tunes became  afterward  so  closely  connected  with  our 
own,  was  at  the  time  of  Myouk's  escape  from  imprison- 

363 


'- 


U' 


||Hlli 


ii, 


■  .  h 


£:-t 


^      ILJ 

!,1 


V  n 


\} 


364 


THE     E  S  Q  U  I  M  A  U  X. 


ment  on  board  the  brig.  Although  during  my  absence 
on  the  attempted  visit  to  Beechy  Ishmd,  the  men  I  had 
left  behind  had  frequent  and  unrestrained  intercourse 
with  them.  I  myself  saw  no  natives  in  Rensselaer  Bay 
till  immediately  after  the  departure  of  Petersen  and  his 
companions.  Just  then,  by  a  coincidence  which  con- 
vinced me  how  closely  we  had  been  under  surveillance, 
a  party  of  three  made  their  appearance,  as  if  to  note 
for  themselves  our  condition  and  resources. 

Times  had  indeed  altered  with  us.  We  had  parted 
with  half  our  provisions,  half  our  boats  and  sledges, 
and  more  than  half  our  able-bodied  men.  It  looked 
very  much  as  if  we  were  to  lie  ensconced  in  our  ice- 
battered  citadel,  rarely  venturing  to  sally  out  for  explo- 
ration or  supplies.  We  feared  nothing  of  course  but 
the  want  of  fresh  meat,  and  it  was  much  less  important 
that  our  neighbors  should  fear  us  than  that  we  should 
secure  from  them  ofhces  of  kindness.  They  were  over- 
bearing sometimes,  and  needed  the  instruction  of 
rebuke;  but  I  treated  them  with  carefully-regulated 
hospitality. 

When  the  three  visitors  came  to  us  near  the  end 
of  August,  I  established  them  in  a  tent  below  deck, 
with  a  copper  lamp,  a  cooking-basin,  and  a  liberal  sup- 
ply of  slush  for  fuel.  I  left  them  under  guard  when  I 
went  to  bed  at  two  in  the  morning,  contentedly  eating 
and  cooking  and  eating  again  without  the  promise  of 
an  intermission.  An  American  or  a  European  would 
have  slept  after  such  a  debauch  till  the  recognised  hour 
for  hock  and  seltzer-water.     But  our  guests  managed 


i.tl 


>:! 


ny  absence 
men  I  bad 
intercourse 
;sobior  Bay 
sen  and  bis 
wbicb  con- 
urveillance, 
3  if  to  note 

bad  parted 
md  sledges, 
.     It  looked 
1  in  our  ice- 
ut  for  explo- 
f  course  but 
!ss  important 
at  we  sbould 

y  were  over- 

istruction   of 

ly-regulated 

lear  tlie  end 
below  deck, 
a  liberal  sup- 
uard  wben  I 
ntedly  eating 
le  promise  of 
rope  an  would 
^cognised  bour 
ests  managed 


T  II  K      L  A  K  C  E  N  V. 


800 


to  elude  tbe  ollicer  of  tlie  deck  and  escape  uusearclied. 
Tliey  repaid  my  Uherality  Ijy  steaUug  not  oidy  tbe 
lamp,  boiler,  and  cooking-pot  tbey  bad  used  for  tbe 
feast,  but  Nannook  also,  my  best  dog.  If  tbe  rest  of 
my  team  bad  not  been  worn  down  by  over-travel,  no 
doubt  tbey  would  bave  taken  tbem  all.  Besides  tbis. 
we  discovered  tbe  next  morning  tbat  tbey  bad  found 
tbe  buftalo-robes  and  India-rubber  clotli  wbicb  McGary 
bad  left  a  few  days  before  on  tbe  ice-foot  near  Six-mile 
Ravine,  and  bad  added  tbe  wbole  to  tbe  spoils  of  tbeir 
visit. 

Tbe  tbeft  of  tbese  articles  end)arrassed  me.  I  was 
nidisposed  to  take  it  as  an  act  of  bostility.  Tbeir  pil- 
ferings  before  tbis  bad  been  conducted  witb  sucb  a 
superb  simplicity,  tbe  detection  followed  by  sucb  bonest 
explosions  of  laugbter,  tbat  I  could  not  lielp  tbinking 
tbey  bad  some  law  of  general  appropriation,  less  re- 
moved from  tbe  Lycurgan  tban  tbe  Mosaic  code.  But 
it  was  plain  at  least  tbat  we  were  now  too  few  to  watcb 
our  property  as  we  bad  done,  and  tbat  our  gentleness 
was  to  some  extent  misunderstood. 

I  was  puzzled  bow  to  inflict  punisbment,  but  saw 
tbat  I  must  act  vigorously,  even  at  a  venture.  I  de- 
spatcbed  my  two  best  walkers,  Morton  and  Riley,  as 
soon  as  I  beard  of  tbe  tbeft  of  tbe  stores,  witb  orders 
to  make  all  speed  to  Anoatok,  and  overtake  tbe  tbieves, 
wbo,  I  tbonght,  would  probably  bait  tliere  to  rest. 
They  found  young  Myouk  making  bimself  quite  com- 
fortable in  the  hut,  in  company  with  Sievu,  the  wife 
of  Metek,  and  Aningna,  the  wife  of  Marsinga,  and  my 


1^' 


i '  ^ 


■  i.i 


:?   ! 


f'i 


11 


I       i! 


It 


Nil 


r- 


■  I 


a- 


T  11  ?;     A  K  I!  !•;  S  T. 


huH'iilo-rolK'.s   alivadv   tailoi'cd   into   kapctahs  on   their 
backs. 

A  continued  search  of  tlie  premises  recovered  the 
cooking-utensilH,    and    a    number   of  other    tliin.Lis   of 


A  N  '  N  G  N  A. 


greater  or  less  value  that  we  had  not  missed  from  the 
brig.  With  the  prompt  ceremonial  which  outraged  law 
delights  in  among  the  officials  of  the  police  everywhere, 
the  women  were  stripped  and  tied ;  and  then,  laden 
with  their  stolen  goods  and  as  much  w\alrus-beef  besides 


on 


their 


tbiugs   of 


•V 


/ 


issod  from  the 
h  outraged  haw 
ce  everywhere, 
nd  then,  hideii 
rus-beef  besides 


T  II  K      I'U  X  I  Sll  M  i:  N  T. 


3G7 


from  thi'ir  own  stores  as  would  jtay  lor  th<'ir  hoard, 
thev  were  niarclicd  on  (he  instant  hack  to  llic  hrij:-. 

Tlie  tliirty  miles  was  a  liard  walk  for  them;  hut 
they  (lid  not  complain,  nor  did  their  constahnlary 
guardians,  who  had  marched  thirty  miles  already  to 
apprehend  tliem.  It  was  hardly  twenty-i'our  hours 
since  they  left  the  hri<>'  with  their  booty  before  they 
were  prisoners  in  the  hold,  witii  a,  dreadful  white  man 
for  keeper,  who  never  adch'cssed  to  them  a  word  that 
had  not  all  the  terrors  of  an  uninti'lliuible  reproof,  and 
whose  scowl,  I  llatti'r  myself,  exhibited  a  well-arranged 
variety  of  menacinji:  and  demoidacid  expressions. 

They  had  not  even  the  companionship  of  Myonk. 
Ilim  1  had  despatched  to  Metek,  "liead-man  of  Ktah, 
and  others,"  with  the  message  of  a  melo-drauiatie 
tyrant,  to  neu'otiate  for  their  ransom.  For  five  Iodl!; 
days  the  women  had  to  siuh  and  sing  and  cry  in  soli- 
tary converse, — their  ap})etite  continuing  excellent,  it 
should  be  remarked,  though  mourning  the  while  a 
rightfully-impending  doom.  At  last  the  great  Metek 
arrived.  He  brought  with  him  Ootuniah,  another  man 
of  elevated  social  position,  and  quite  a  sledge-load  of 
knives,  tin  cups,  and  other  stolen  goods,  refuse  of 
wood  and  scraps  of  iron,  the  r^inful  prizes  of  many 
covetings. 

I  may  pass  over  our  peace  conferences  and  the  indi- 
rect advantages  wdiicli  I  of  course  derived  from  having 
the  opposing  powers  represented  in  my  own  capital. 
But  the  splendors  of  our  Arctic  centre  of  civilization, 
with  its  wonders  of  art  and  science, — our  "  fire-death" 


sit; 


t  'I 


■  .^   R 


.:ii       » 


in- 

1  f 

'• 

i 

i 

) 

J 

1 

f 

UK 


308 


TIIK     tup:  A  TV. 


onlnanco  incliuU'd, — could  not  ;il!  oi'  tlioin  iiiiprcsH 
Mctok  so  much  as  tlu'  intiuiations  lie  liiid  ivceivcd 
of  our  superior  pliysical  oiulowinciits.  Nomads  as 
they  are,  these  people  know  better  than  all  the  world 
besides  what  enchiranee  a?id  energy  it  re({uires  to 
brave  the  Tnovin<»'  iee  and  snow-drifts.  Metek  thou^iht, 
no  doubt,  that  our  strength  was  gone  with  the  with- 
drawi!ig  party :  but  the  fiict  that  within  ten  hours 
after  the  loss  of  our  Iniffalo-skins  we  had  marched  to 
their  hut,  seized  three  of  their  culprits,  and  marched 
them  back  to  the  brig  as  pris(mers, — such  a  sixty  miles' 
achievement  as  this  they  thoroughly  understood.  It 
ccmfirmed  them  in  the  faith  that  the  whites  are  and 
of  right  ought  to  be  everywhere  the  dominant  tril)e. 

The  protocol  was  arranged  without  difficulty,  though 
not  without  the  accustomed  number  of  adjournments 
for  festivity  and  repose.  It  abounded  in  protestations 
of  power,  fearlessness,  and  good-will  by  each  of  the 
contracting  parties,  which  meant  as  much  as  such  pro- 
testations usually  do  on  both  sides  the  Arctic  circle. 
I  could  give  a  summary  of  it  without  invading  the 
privacy  of  a  diplomatic  bureau,  for  I  have  notes  of  it 
that  were  taken  by  a  subordinate ;  but  I  prefer  passing 
at  once  to  the  reciprocal  engagements  in  which  it 
resulted. 

On  the  part  of  the  Inuit,  the  Esquimaux,  they  were 
after  this  fashion  : — 

"  AVe  promise  that  we  will  not  steal.  We  promise 
we  will  bring  you  fresh  meat.  We  promise  we  will 
sell  or  lend  you  dogs.     We  will  keep  you  company 


icni    impress 
luul   ivceivod 
Noiniids   us 
all  the  world 
I   iv(iuires   to 
:ett'k  tliovi'riht, 
,itU  the  with- 
lin  ten   hours 
id  luivri'hod  to 
,  and  nnirchod 
1  a  sixty  miles' 
inderst(iod.     It 
whites  are  and 
uinant  trihe. 
iihculty,  thonjih 
,f  adjournments 
in  protestations 
oy  each  of  the 
Lich  as  such  pro- 
le  Arctic  circle, 
it  invading  the 
tiave  notes  of  it 
I  prefer  passing 
its   in  Avhich  it 

laux,  they  were 

il.     We  promise 

[promise  we  wdl 

;p  you  company 


r  N  l;  h'O  K  K  N      lA  I  I  II. 


>'('.( 


01) 


lienever  you   Wiiiit   us,  and  show  you  where  to  liiid 


le  uame. 


On    the  part   of  the    Ivi/>/in/ii/i,  tlu;  v.  men.  the 

stipulation  was  of  this  am[»le  e(pii\alei  ', 

"We  ))i'oinise  tliat  we  will  not  visit  Vi-n  v.ith  death 
or  sorcery,  nor  do  you  any  hurt  oi-  luischief  whatsoe\  i-r. 


We  will   shoot  for   \(>u  on  our  hunt.^ 


ou 


II  a 


11   li 


ma 


de 


welcome   ahoan 


I   si 


111). 


W 


ill 


e   will  give  you   pre 


.seiits  of  needles,  [)ins,  two  kinds  of  knife,  a  hoop,  three 
hits  of  hard  wood,  some  fat.  an  awl,  and  some  sewing- 
thread;  and  we  will  trade  with  you  of  these  and  evei-y 
thing  else  vou  want  for  walrus  and  seal-meat  of  ihc 
first  quality." 

And  the  closing  formula  might  have  read,  if  the 
Es(|uimaux  political  system  had  included  readin.t: 
among  its  qualifications  for  di[»loma('y,  in  this  tiiiic- 
consecrated  and,  in  civilized  regions,  veracious  assur- 
ance : — 

'"  We,  the  high  contracting  parties,  pledge  ourselves 
now  and  forever  l)rotliers  and  friends. 

This  treatv  —  which,  thouuh  I  have  spoken  of  ir 
jocosely,  was  really  an  aflair  of  much  interest  to  us — 
was  ratilied,  with  Hans  and  Morton  as  mv  accredited 
representatives,  hy  a  full  assemhly  of  the  peo[)le  at 
Etah.  All  our  future  intercourse  was  conducted  under 
it.  It  was  not  solemnized  Ijy  an  oath ;  but  it  was 
never  broken.  We  went  to  and  fro  Ijetweeii  the 
villages  and  the  brig,  paid  our  visits  of  courtesy  and 
necessity  on  both  sides,  met  each  other  in  hunting 
parties  on  the  tloe  and  the  ice-foot,  organized  a  general 

Vol.  I.—'2i 


I 


"■?..■■ 


I( 


H 


•u. 

I' 


■■  i  > 


It! 


f- 


f 


) 


i 

[V 


370 


MY      BHdTIIKR. 


m 


}i 


comiiiuiiitv  of  intorcsts,  and  reallv,  I  believe,  osta- 
l)lislied  some  personal  attachments  deserving  of  the 
name.  As  h:)ng  as  we  remained  prisoners  of  the  ice, 
we  Avere  indel)ted  to  them  for  mvalnal)le  counsel  in 
relation  to  our  hunting  expeditions;  and  in  the  joint 
hunt  Ave   sliared   alike,   according  to   their  own   hiAvs. 


HASolNG       GLACiEi 


Our  d'^rs  Avere  in  one  sense  common  property;  and 
often  have  they  robbed  themseh'es  to  offer  supplies 
of  food  to  our  starving  teams.  They  gave  us  sup- 
plies of  meat  at  critical  periods :  Ave  AA'ere  able  to  do 
as  much  for  them.  They  learned  to  look  on  us  only 
as  benefactors ;  and,  I  knoAV,  mourned  our  departure 
bitterly.  The  greeting  Avhich  they  gave  my  brother 
John,  Avhen  he  came  out  after  me  to  Etah  Avith  the 


elieve,  csta- 
ving  of  the 
s  of  the  ice, 
\i  counsel  in 
ill  the  joint 
r  own  Uuvs. 


n-operty;  and 
offer  sLippiie^^ 
n-ave   us  i^up- 

ore  aljlc  to  do 

)ok  on  us  only 

our  departure 

Hve  my  brother 

Etah  with  the 


R  E  T  U  K  N      r  ROM      A      II  U  X  T. 


371 


Rescue  Expedition,  should  bo  of  itself  enough  to  sa- 
tisfy me  of  this.  I  should  ])e  glad  to  l^orrow  from  his 
ingenuous  narrative  the  story  of  his  meeting  with 
Mvouk  and  Metek  and  Ootuniah.  and  of  the  almost 
airecti(mate  confidence  with  which  the  maimed  and 
sick  invited  his  professional  succor,  as  the  representa- 
tive of  the  elder  "  Docto  Kayen." 

''September  1*1,  Saturday. — Back  last  night  from  a 
walrus-hunt.  I  brought  in  the  spoil  with  my  dogs, 
leaving  Hans  and  Ohlsen  to  follow  afoot.  This  Mars- 
ton  ritle  is  an  admiraljle  substitute  for  the  primitive 
lance-head.  It  killed  at  the  first  fire.  Five  nights' 
camping  out  in  the  snow,  with  hard-working  days  be- 
tween, have  made  me  ache  a  little  in  the  joints;  l)ut, 
strange  to  say,  I  feel  better  than  when  I  left  the  vessel. 
This  climate  exacts  heavy  feeding,  but  it  invites  to 
muscular  energy.  McGary  and  Morton  are  off  at 
Anoatok.  From  what  I  gathered  on  the  hunt,  they 
will  find  the  council  very  walling  to  ratify  our  alliance. 
But  they  should  have  been  at  home  before  this. 

"September  17,  Sunday. — Writing  by  this  miserable 
flicker  of  my  pork-fat  lamp,  I  can  hardly  steady  pen, 
paper,  or  thought.  All  hands  have  rested  after  a  heavy 
week's  work,  wdiich  has  advanced  us  luMy  in  our  ar- 
rangements for  the  winter.  The  se..son  is  Ijy  our 
tables  at  least  three  weeks  earlier  than  the  last,  and 
every  thing  indicates  a  severe  ordeal  ahead  of  us. 

"Just  as  we  were  finishing  our  chapter  this  mcn'uing 
in  the  'Book  of  Ruth,'  McGary  and  Morton  came  in 
triumphantly,  pretty  well  worn  down  ])y  their  fifty 


ii 

i 
li 

;  '1 

)    !• 


1     1- 


il;.     ! 
1 


M     1 


;-   N, 


'If ' 


I 


n 


:  J 

I 


i  ! 


11 


0,79 


X  ()  M  A  Die      LI  F  E. 


II 


■n 

,"■5 


miles'  travel,  but  with  good  news,  and  a  tlip])or  of 
walrus  that  must  weigh  some  forty  pounds.  Ohlsen 
and  Hans  are  in  too.  They  arrived  as  we  were  sitting- 
down  to  celebrate  the  Anoatok  ratification  of  our  treaty 
of  the  Gth. 

"It  is  a  strange  life  we  are  leading.  AVe  are  aljso- 
lutely  nomads,  so  ftir  as  there  can  be  any  thing  of 
pastoral  life  in  this  region;  and  our  wild  encounter  with 
the  elements  seems  to  agree  with  vv^  all.  Our  ta1)le-talk 
at  sup|)er  was  as  merry  as  a  marriage-bell.  One  party 
was  just  in  from  a  seventy-four  miles'  trip  with  the 
dogs;  another  from  a  foot-iournev  of  a  hundred  and 
sixty,  with  live  nights  on  the  tioe.  Each  had  his  story 
to  tell;  and  while  tlie  story  was  telling  some  at  least 
were  projecting  new  expeditions.  I  have  one  myself 
in  my  mind's  eye,  that  may  peradventure  cover  some 
lines  of  my  journal  before  the  winter  ends. 

"McGary  and  Morton  sledged  it  along  the  ice-foot 
completely  round  the  Reach,  and  made  the  huts  by  ten 
o'clock  the  night  after  they  left  ns.  They  found  only 
three  men,  Ootuniah,  our  elfish  rogue  M\-ouk.  and  a 
stranger  wdio  has  not  been  with  ns  that  we  know  of. 
It  looked  at  lirst  a  little  doubtful  whether  the  visit  was 
not  to  be  misunderstood.  Myouk  particularly  was  an 
awkward  party  to  negotiate  with.  lie  had  been  our 
prisoner  for  stealing  only  a  little  while  before,  and  at 
this  very  moment  is  an  escaped  hostage.  He  was  in 
pawn  to  us  for  a  lot  of  walrus-ljeef,  as  indemnity  for 
our  boat.  lie  thought  naturally  enough  that  the  visit 
might   have    something   more    than    a    representative 


a   tlipiK'T  of 

ids.     Ohlst'ii 

were  sitting 

of  our  treaty 

We  are  abso- 
Liiy  thing  of 
icounter  \vitli 
)nr  table-talk 
,.     One  party 
:rip  with  the 
hundred  and 
had  his  story 
some  at  least 
e  one  niyseU' 
'C  cover  some 
Is. 

o;  the  ice-foot 
le  huts  by  ten 
y  found  only 
^I\ouk.  and  a 
we  know  of 
r  the  visit  was 
ularly  was  an 
had  been  our 
before,  and  a  I 
e.     lie  was  in 
indemnity  lor 
1  that  the  visit 
representative 


K  i:  ("  i:  1"I  1  ()  \      A  T      A  X  OAT  ()  K. 


!73 


bearing  on  his  interests.  IJoth  our  men  had  been  his 
jailers  t)n  board  the  brig,  and  he  was  the  iirst  person 
they  met  as  they  came  upon  the  village. 

•'Ihit  when  he  found,  by  McGary's  expressive  panto- 
mime, that  the  visit  was  not  specially  to  him,  and  that 
the  first  appeal  was  to  his  hospitality  and  his  fellows', 
his  entire  demeanor  underwent  a  change.  He  seemed 
to  take  a  new  character,  as  if,  said  Morton,  he  had 
dr()p})ed  a  mask.  He  gave  them  welcome  with  un- 
mixed cordiality,  carried  them  to  his  hut,  cleared  away 
the  end  farthest  from  the  opening  for  their  reception, 
and  filled  up  the  lire  of  moss  and  blubber. 

"The  others  joined  him,  and  the  attention  of  the 
whole  settlement  was  directed  at  once  to  the  wants  of 
the  visitors.  Their  wet  boots  were  turned  toward  the 
fire,  their  woollen  socks  wrung  out  and  placed  on  a 
heated  stone,  dry  grass  was  padded  round  their  feet, 
and  the  choicest  cuts  of  walrus-liver  were  put  into  the 
cooking-pot.  Whatever  might  be  the  infirmity  of  their 
notions  of  honesty,  it  was  plain  that  we  had  no  lessons 
to  give  them  in  the  virtues  of  hospitable  welcome. 
Indeed,  there  was  a  frankness  and  cordiality  in  the 
mode  of  receiving  their  guests,  that  explained  the  un- 
reserve   and    conscious    security   which    thev    showed 

^'  *■' 

when  they  first  visited  us. 

'•I  could  hardly  guess  at  th;it  time,  when  we  saw 
them  practising  antics  and  grimaces  among  the  rocks, 
what  was  the  meaning  of  their  harle(piin  gestuivs,  and 
how  they  could  venture  afterward  so  fearlessly  on 
board.     I  have  understood  the  riddle  since.     It  was  a 


li 


it 


I 

1 

r 
i    . 

,' 

1 

\ 

\ 

i     ' 

> 

\          , 

1     ( 

1 

»  'I 


ik- 


siM 


n 


I ' 


if, 


rf 


''1 

1  M'r 

1         ^ 

'I'H 

^ 
^ 

f 

1 

j 

i 

1 
) 

li   ^;: 


mp 


374 


TK  K  A  T  V      CO  N  [■'  I  \l  M  E  I). 


displtu'  of  tlu'ir  powers  of  cntortainincnt,  iiitt'iidi'd  to 
solicit  from  lus  ji  iv('c'[)ti()ii ;  ami  the  invitation  oneo 
given,  all  their  experience  and  inipnl«es  assured  them 
of  safety. 

"Every  thing'  they  had,  cooking-utensils,  snow-melt- 
ing stone,  scant}'  weapons  of  the  chase,  personal  sei'- 
vice,  pledges  of  grateful  welcome, — they  gave  them  all. 


n 


'Bl 


if 


11; 


e 


KOTLIK,      WITH       OUR       OWN      KOLUP      SOOT. 

They  confirmed  all  Metek's  engagements,  as  if  the 
whole  favor  was  for  them;  and  when  our  party  was 
coming  away  they  placed  on  the  sledge,  seemingly  as 
a  matter  of  course,  all  the  meat  that  was  left. 

"Septemljer  20,  Wednesday. — The  natives  are  really 
acting  up  to  contract.  They  are  on  hoard  to-day,  and 
I  have  been  off  with  a  party  of  them  on  a  hunt  iidand. 
We  had  no  great  luck ;    the  weather  was  against  us, 


ill  tended  to 
tiitioii  oiioe 
ssiirod  them 

^,  sncnv-iiieltr 
personal  der- 
ive them  all. 


Lits,  as    it'   the 
)ur  party  was 
t^eemhr^ly  as 
left. 

ives  are  really 
rd  to-day,  and 
a  hunt  inland, 
as  against  ns, 


II  r  N  T    w  1  111    A  1. 1, 1  i:s. 


•J  ( ■) 


and  there  are  signs  of  a  gale.  The  thermometer  has 
])eeii  two  degrees  below  zero  for  the  entire  twenty-four 
hours.     This  is  SeptemhtT  \v"th  a  vengeanee! 

"September  22,  Friday. — I  am  off  for  the  walrns- 
u'rounds  with  our  wild  allies.  It  will  l)e  mv  sixth 
trip.  I  know  the  eountry  and  its  landmarks  now  as 
well  as  any  of  them,  and  ean  name  everv  roek  and 
chasm  and  watercourse,  in  night  or  fog,  just  as  I  eould 
the  familiar  spots  about  the  dear  Old  Mills  where  I 
passed  my  childhood. 

'•The  weather  does  not  ])romise  well;   but  the  stat( 
of  our  larder  makes  the  jaunt  necessary." 


b  E.  .   T  '  0  N        j  -        .V      S   •   £  ■)       A  P  A  K  T   r.1  tl  N  t  . 


■1 


1         ! 


I      K 

i  5: 


i:f' 


Jrllfw?! 


1^  ■  ^   '  ^ 

r 


^j 


I 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

WALRUS-OIIOUXDS — LOST  ON  THE  ICK  —  A  BREAK  UP — IGLOE 
OF  ANOATOK  —  ITS  OAUMTLHE  —  CREATURE  COMFORTS  —  ESQUI- 
MAUX   MUSIC  —  USAGES   OF    THE    TABLE NEW    LONDON    AVENUE 

— SCANT  DIET  LIST — BEAR  AND   CUB — A  HUNT — CLOSE  QUARTERS 

— BEAR-FIGIITINO  —  BEAR-IIABITS BEAR's  LIVER  —  RATS  —  THE 

TERRIER    FOX  —  THE    ARCTIC    HARE THE    ICE-FOOT    CANOPY  —  A 

WOLF — DOGS   AND    AVOLVES — BEAR   AND    FOX — THE    NATIVES   AND 
OURSELVES — WINTER  QUARTERS — MORTON'S  RETURN — THE  LIGHT. 

"  September  29,  Friday. — I  returned  last  night  from 
xinoatok,  after  a  journey  of  muci  risk  and  exposure, 
that  I  should  have  avoided  but  for  the  insuperable 
obstinacy  of  our  savage  friends. 

"'I  set  out  for  the  walrus-grounds  at  noon,  by  the 
track  of  the  '^Wind  Point'  of  Anoatok,  known  to  us  as 
Esquimaux  Point.  I  took  the  light  sledge,  and,  in 
addition  to  the  five  of  my  available  team,* harnessed  in 
two  animals  belonging  to  the  Esquimaux.  Ootuniah. 
Myouk,  and  the  dark  stranger  accompanied  me,  with 
Morton  and  Hans. 

"  Our  sledge  was  overladen  :  I  could  not  persuade 
the  Es(piimaux  to  reduce  its  weight;  and  the  conse- 
(]uence  was  that  we  failed  to  reach  Force  Bay  in  time 

370 


■ 

I      i 


LOST      ON      THE      ICK. 


377 


for  a  (layliglit  on)ssiiig.  To  loUow  the  indi'iitiitioiis  of 
the  hind  was  to  make  the  travel  long  and  dangerous. 
We  truf^ted  to  the  tracks  of  our  former  journeys,  and 
pushed  out  on  the  ice.  But  the  darkness  came  on  us 
rapidl}^,  and  tlie  snow  began  to  drift  before  a  heavy 
north  Avind.  • 

''At  about  10  P.M.  Ave  had  lost  the  land,  and,  while 
driving  the  dogs  rapidly,  all  of  us  running  alongside  of 
them,  we  took  a  wrong  direction,  and  travelled  out 
toward  the  lloating  ice  of  the  Sound.  There  wa^  no 
guide  to  the  points  of  the  compass;  our  Esquinuiux 
were  completely  at  fault;  and  the  alarm  of  the  dogs, 
which  became  every  moment  more  manifest,  extended 
itself  to  our  party.  The  instinct  of  a  sledge-dog  makes 
him  perfectly  aware  of  unsafe  ice,  and  1  know  nothing 
more  subduing  to  a  man  than  the  warnings  of  aii 
unseen  peril  conveyed  by  the  instinctive  tears  of  the 
lower  animals. 

"  We  had  to  keep  moving,  for  we  could  not  camp  in 
the  gale,  that  blew  around  us  so  fiercely  that  we  could 
scarcely  hold  down  the  sledge.  But  we  moved  with 
caution,  feeling  our  way  with  the  tent-poles,  which  I 
distributed  among  the  party  for  the  purpose.  A  mur- 
mur had  reached  my  ear  for  some  time  in  the  cadences 
of  the  storm,  steadier  and  deeper,  I  thought,  than  the 
tone  of  the  wind :  on  a  sudden  it  struck  me  that  I 
heard  the  noise  of  waves,  and  that  we  must  be  coming 
close  on  the  open  water.  I  had  hardly  time  for  the 
hurried  order,  '  Turn  the  dogs,'  before  a  wreath  of  wet 
frost-smoke  swept  over  us,  and  the  sea  showed  itself, 


if 


II  i 


Mi 


'  i 


3  f 


11 


1 


1    i|  I 


i  :  :l 


i  ;.i 


'  I 


pi 

oi  * 


o78 


A      IJ  li  i:  A  k      I  V 


wltli  a  jiivat  IVin^o  of  loam,  liardlv  a  ((uartor  of  a  mile 
ahead.  We  eould  now  uuess  our  position  and  its  dan- 
gers. The  iee  was  ]>reaking  up  l)efore  the  storm,  and 
it  was  not  certain  that  even  a  direct  retreat  in  the 
face  of  the  gale  would  extricate  us.  I  determined 
to  run  to  the  south  for  Godsend  Island.  The  Hoes 
were  heavy  in  that  direction,  and  less  likely  to  give 
way  ill  a  northerly  gale.  It  was  at  best  a  dreary 
venture. 

"  The  surf-line  kept  encroaching  on  us  till  we  could 
feel  the  ice  undulating  under  our  feet.  Very  soon  it 
betzan  to  uive  wav.  Lines  of  hummocks  rose  })efore 
us,  and  we  had  to  run  the  gauntlet  between  them  as 
they  closed.  Escaping  these,  we  toiled  over  the 
crushed  fragments  that  lay  between  them  and  the 
shore,  stum])ling  over  the  projecting  crags,  or  sinking 
in  the  water  that  rose  among  them.  It  was  too  dark 
to  see  the  island  which  we  were  steering  for;  but  the 
black  loom  of  a  lofty  cape  broke  the  line  of  the  horizon 
and  served  as  a  landmark.  The  dogs,  relieved  from 
the  burden  of  carrying  us,  moved  with  more  spirit. 
AVe  began  to  draw  near  the  shore,  the  ice-storm  still 
raiiinir  l)eliiiid  us.  But  our  difficulties  were  only  reach- 
ing  their  climax.  We  knew  as  icemen  that  the  access 
to  the  liuid-ice  from  the  Hoe  was,  under  the  most  favor- 
ing circumstances,  both  toilsome  and  dangerous.  The 
rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  always  breaks  up  the  ice  at 
the  margin  of  the  ice-belt  in  a  tangle  of  irregular,  lialf- 
tloating  masses ;  and  these  were  now  surging  under 
the  energies  of  the  gale.     It  was  pitchy  dark.     I  per- 


S'  H 


I  ! 


E  S  Q  U  1  M  A  r  X      IK)  M  E  S  T  E  A  I). 


379 


or  of  a  mile 
and  its  daii- 
>  stoi'ui,  and 
treat  in  the 
detennined 
.  The  Hues 
kely  to  give 
ist  a  dreary 

till  we  could 
Very  soon  it 
s  rose  ))etore 
reen  them  as 
ed  over  the 
lem  and  the 
rs,  or  sinking 
was  too  dark 

for;  but  the 
)['  the  horizon 
relieved  from 
.  more  spirit, 
ice-storm  still 
re  onlv  reaeh- 
liat  the  access 
le  most  favor- 
igerous.     The 

up  the  ice  at 
rregular,  half- 
purging  under 

dark.     I  per- 


suaded Ootuniah,  the  eldest  of  the  Esfpiimaux,  to 
have  a  tent-pole  lashed  horizontally  across  his  sli(/ul- 
ders.  I  gave  him  the  end  of  a  line,  which  I  had  fast- 
ened at  the  other  end  round  my  waist.  The  rest  of 
the  party  followed  him. 

"As  I  moved  ahead,  feeling  round  me  for  a  prac- 
ticable way,  Ootuniah  followed ;  and  when  a  table  of 
ice  was  found  large  enough,  the  others  would  urge 
forward  the  dogs,  pushing  the  sledge  themselves,  or 
clinging  to  it,  as  the  moment  prompted.  We  had  acci- 
dents of  course,  some  of  them  menacing  for  the  time, 
but  none  to  be  remembered  for  their  consequences ; 
and  at  last  one  after  another  succeeded  in  clambering 
after  me  upon  the  ice-foot,  driving  the  dogs  before 
them. 

"Providence  had  been  our  guide.  The  shore  on 
which  we  landed  was  Anoatok,  not  four  hundred  yards 
from  the  familiar  Esquimaux  homestead.  With  a 
shout  of  joy,  each  man  in  his  own  dialect,  we  hastened 
to  the  '^wind-loved  spot;'  and  in  less  than  an  hour,  our 
lamps  burning  cheerfully,  we  were  discussing  a  famous 
stew  of  walrus-steaks,  none  the  less  relished  for  an 
unbroken  ice-walk  of  forty-eight  miles  and  twenty  halt- 
less  hours. 

"  When  I  reached  the  hut,  our  stranger  Esquimaux, 
whose  name  we  found  to  be  Awahtok,  or  '  Seal-bladder 
lloat,'  was  striking  a  fire  from  two  stones,  one  a  plain 
piece  of  angular  milky  quartz,  held  in  the  right  hand, 
the  other  apparently  an  oxide  of  iron.  He  struck 
them  together  after  the  true  tinder-box  fashion,  throw- 


',  '  iM 


l)»),l 


f!^ 


h  ,  ■  ■jr'  'iv 


i  I 


1             i' '  ■ 

fi\ 

;                                                             1 

1 

'  1^ 

11  £^«'<| 

.  i 

:]80 


IGLOK     OF     A  No  AT  OK. 


in.U'  a  sciMity  su[)ply  of  s[);ii-ks  on  ii  tiiidiT  coniposcd  of 
tlic  sWky  (loNNL  v?'"  tliLMvillow-Ciilkins.  (*V.  lan<it<(,)  wliicli 
ho  held  on  a  Iud.'p  of  driod  moss. 

••Tlu'  hut  or  igloti  ut  Anoatok  was  a  single  nido 
I'lliptical  a[)artnu'nt,  built  not  unskilfully  of  stone,  the 
outside  lined  with  sods.  At  its  farther  end  a  rude 
[)liitlorni,  also  of  stone,  was  lifted  about  a  foot  above 
tlie  entering  Moor.  The  roof  formed  something  of  a 
eui'\  e  :  it  was  eomposed  of  tiat  stones,  remarkably  large 
and  heavy,  arranged  S(j  as  to  overlap  each  other,  l)ut 
ap[)arently  without  any  intelligent  applieation  of  the 
l)rineiple  of  the  areli.  The  height  of  this  cave-like 
abode  ])arel3'  permitted  cme  to  sit  upright.  Its  length 
\\'iis  eight  feet,  its  breadth  seven  feet,  and  an  expansion 
of  the  tunnell'd  entrance  made  an  appendage  of  per- 
ha))s  two  feet  more. 

••The  true  winter  entrance  is  called  the  tosHut.  It 
is  a  walled  tunnel,  ten  feet  long,  and  so  narrow  that  a 
man  can  hardly  crawl  along  it.  It  opens  outside  below 
the  level  of  the  igloe,  into  wdiich  it  leads  by  a  gradual 
ascent. 

'•Time  had  done  its  work  on  the  igloe  of  Anoatok. 
as  among  the  palatial  structures  of  more  southern  de- 
serts. The  entire  front  of  the  dome  had  fallen  in. 
closing  up  the  tossut,  and  forcing  us  to  enter  at  the  soli- 
tary window  above  it.  The  breach  was  large  enough 
to  admit  a  sledge-team ;  but  our  Arctic  comrades  showed 
no  anxiety  to  close  it  up.  Their  clothes  saturated  with 
the  freezing  water  of  the  floes,  these  iron  men  gathered 
themselves  round  the  bluljber-fire  and  steamed  awav 


)U1[)<)S(mI   {)[' 

tff((.)  wliich 

■iin.ii'k'   nide 
['  stoiK',  the 
end  a  rude 
l()(jt  above 
ething  ol'  a 
L'kably  large 
I  otber,  Imt 
itioii  of  the 
is  cave-Hke 
Us  length 
n  expansion 
ilage  of  per- 

e  tO'SsiU.  It 
iiTow  that  a 
ntside  ]jelow 
jy  a  gradual 

of  Anoatok. 
•ioutliern  de- 
1  fallen  in. 
lit  the  soli- 
arge  enough 
ades  showed 
turated  with 
len  gathered 
earned  away 


ir 


ITS     G  A  U  N  1  T  I'  l{  K. 


381 


in  api)ar(>nt  comfort.  'I'lic  only  departure  from  their 
practised  routine,  wliich  the  bicMk  niglit  and  open  roof 
seemed  to  suggest  to  them,  was  that  they  did  not  strip 
themselves  indeed  before  eonung  into  the  iiut,  and  liang 
up  their  vestments  in  the  air  to  dry,  like  a  votive  oll'er- 
ing  to  the  god  of  the  sea. 

•"  Their  kitchen-implements 
were  even  more  sim[)le  than 
our  own.  A  rude  saui-er- 
shaped  cup  of  seal-skiu.  to 
gather  and  hold  water  in.  was 

tlie  solitary  utensil  tliat  cituld  be  dignified  as  table- 
furniture.  A  tlat  stone,  a  fixture  of  the  liut.  supported 
by  other  stones  just  above  the  shoulder-blade  of  a  wal- 


SEAL-SKiN      Cut'. 


SNOW-MELTER,      ANOATOK. 


nis, — the  stone  slightly  inclined,  the  cavity  of  the  bone 
laru'c  enough  to  hold  a  moss-wick  and  some  blub))er ; — 
a  srpuire  block  of  snow  was  placed  on  the  stone,  and, 


'  1 


lit 


i    I 


^'If^i 


1 

I     4  \m.   I 


1^ 


382 


CUE  ATT  HE     r«)MF(lRTS. 


as  tlic  hot  smoke  circU'd  round  it,  tlio  soul-skin  sjiufcr 
(•auulit  tlu'  wiitiT  that  (IripiuMJ  IVoni  the  odiic  Thoy 
liad  no  vt'ssc'l  for  hoilin.ii ;  what  tiicy  did  not  cat  raw 
thi'\'  halved  ni)on  a  hot  stone.  A  solitary  eoil  ol' walrus- 
line,  fastened  to  a  niovahle  lance-head,  (noon-^hak,) 
with  the  well-worn  and  well-soaked  clothes  on  their 
hacks,  completed  the  inventory  of  their  effects. 


I 


STAND       OF      WALRUS-JONES 


Pi 


ti 


'   t:  r 


K 


'•  We  felt  that  we  were  more  ciyilized  than  our  poor 
cousins,  as  we  fell  to  \vork  making  ourselves  comfort- 
ahle  after  our  own  fashion.  The  dais  was  scraped,  and 
its  accumulated  filth  of  years  removed ;  a  canvas  tent 
was  folded  double  over  the  dry,  frozen  stone;*,  our  buf- 
falo-bag spread  over  this,  and  dry  socks  and  moccasins 
were  drawn  from  under  our  wet  overclothes.  My 
copper  lamp,  a  true  Berzelius  Argand,  invaluable  for 


i,  J, 


M 


-skill  saucer 
'dill'.  Tlioy 
not  eat  raw 
)il  of  walnis- 
(uoon-gliak,) 
hos  on  their 
Veets. 


than  our  poor 
selves  comfort- 
Lis  scraped,  and 

a  canvas  tent 
toncis  our  but- 

and  moccasins 
erclothes.     My 

invaluable  for 


r.  S<j  I  I  M  A  I  \     M  I  s  1  c. 


883 


short  iou>'iU'\>'.  soon  llanieil  with  a  cliccrrul  fii'c.  The 
s(»up-[)(»t,  the  ualnis-steak.  and  the  hot  colli'c  were  the 
next  thinizs  to  l)e  thoiiiiht  of;  and.  while  these  wero 
gettin.u;  ready,  an  India-rubhcr  lloor-clotli  was  I'astened 
over  the  .<:a|)in;i'  entrance  of  tlie  cave. 

-  Dni'in^'  our  l«)nji'  march  and  its  series  of  iee-fiLilits 
we  had  taken  care  to  nianitest  no  weariness,  and  liad, 
indeed,  borne  both  Ootuniah  and  Myouk  at  times  u[)on 
our  shoulders.  We  showed  no  signs  either  oC  cold;  so 
that  all  this  })reparation  and  rich  store  of  appliances 
could  not  be  attributed  by  the  Ks([uinniux  to  eifeuii- 
nacy  or  inferior  power.  I  could  see  that  they  were 
protbundly  inn)ressed  with  a  conviction  of  our  su[)e- 
rioritv,  the  last  feelini;' which  the  egotistical  sell-conceit 
of  savaii'e  life  admits. 

"  I  felt  sure  now  that  thev  were  our  more  than 
sworn  friends.  They  sang  'Amna  Ayah'  for  us,  their 
rude,  monotonous  song,  till  our  ears  cracked  with  the 
discord ;    and    improvised    a    special    eulogistic    chant, 


^■■^  V     :)  V   .'1 


Am  -  uu  -  yjili,  Am  -  iia  -  ya!i.  Am    -    iiu  -  y;ili,  Am    -     iia  -  yah, 

which  they  repeated  over  and  over  again  with  laugh- 
able gravity  of  utterance,  su1)siding  always  into  the 
re/raui  o( '^NdJei/al-!  ^mJrijal'!  nalecinh-soah!''  ^Ca])tain! 
captain  !  great  captain  !'  They  nicknamed  and  adc^pted 
all  of  us  as  members  of  \\\c\v  fraternitv,  with  uTave 
and  abundant  form;   reminding  me  through  all   their 


J  ' 


\  \ 


\ 


:  ! 


"IE 


384 


sou  X  I)      A  S  L  E  E  P. 


mummery,  solemn  and  ludicrous  at  once,  of  the  analo- 
gous ceremonies  of  our  North  American  Indians. 

*'  The  chant  and  the  feed  and  the  ceremony  all  com- 
pleted, Hans,  Morton,  and  myself  crawled  feet-foremost 
into    our    buffalo-bafr,    and    Ootuniah,    Awahtok.    and 


t 


Ik- 


parhelia,  DHAWN   BY   MR.  SONTAG, 


1'  'I  J 


Mvouk  Ihinir  themselves  outside  the  skin  between  us. 
The  last  I  heard  of  them  vc  any  thing  else  was  thf 
renewed  chorus  of  "  Nalegak  !  nalegak  !  nalegak-soak  !' 
mingling  itself  sleepily  in  my  dreams  with  school-boy 
memories  of  Aristophanes  and  The  Frogs.  I  slept 
eleven  hours. 

'•  Tljfy  Aver<'  up  long  before  us.  and  had  breakfasted 


of  the  analo 
nditiiis, 
Liony  all  com- 
feet-foremost 
Avahtok,    and 


I  betwoc'ii  us. 
else  was  the 
lalegak-soak  1' 
itli  seliool-l)oy 
ogs.      I   slept 

id  breakfasted 


r 


USAGES  OF  THE  TABLE. 


385 


on  raw  meat  cut  from  a  large  joint,  which  lay,  without 
regard  to  cleanliness,  among  the  deposits  on  the  floor 
of  the  igloe.  Their  mode  of  eating  was  ingeniously 
active.  They  cut  the  meat  in  long  strips,  introduced 
one  end  into  the  mouth,  swallowed  it  as  far  as  the 
powers  of  deglutition  would  allow,  and  then,  cutting  off 
the  protruding  portion  close  to  the  lips,  prepared  them- 
selves for  a  second  mouth t\d.  It  was  really  a  feat  of 
address :  those  of  us  who  tried  it  failed  awkwardly ; 
and  \vt  I  have  seen  infants  in  the  mother's  hood,  not 
two  years  old,  who  managed  to  perform  it  without 
accident." 

I  pass  over  the  story  of  the  hunt  that  followed.  It 
had  nothing  to  distinguish  it  from  many  others,  and 
I  find  in  my  journal  of  a  few  days  later  the  fresh  nar- 
rative of  Morton,  after  he  had  seen  one  for  the  first 
time. 

My  next  extracts  show  the  progress  of  our  winter 
arrangements. 

'"September  30,  Saturday. — "We  have  been  clearing 
up  on  the  ice.  Our  system  for  the  winter  has  not  the 
dignity  of  a  year  ago.  We  have  no  Butler  Storehouse, 
no  Medary,  no  Fern  Rock,  with  their  {ip})liances.  We 
are  ten  men  in  a  casemate,  with  all  our  energies  con- 
centrated against  the  enemy  outside. 

"Our  beef-house  is  now  a  pile  of  barrels  holding  our 

wateiisoaked  beef  and  pork.     Flour,  beans,  and  dried 

apples  make  a  quadrangular  l)lockhouse  on  the  floe: 

from  one  corner  of  it  rises  our  flagstafl',  lighting  up  the 

dusky  gray   with   its   red  and  white  ensign,  only  on 
Vol*.  i.—-2rj 


I 


I  . 


.t,  '  i 


.►I  n 


Tf:v-'}' 


il! 


386 


NEW     LONDON     A  V  E  N  U  E. 


1 

I 

'    -1' 

li 

■) 
1) 

1, 

ft 

1 

i 

1 

;   1 

p 


Sundcay  giving  place  to  the  Henry  Grinnell  Hag,  of 
happy  memories. 

"From  this,  along  an  avenue  that  opens  abeam  of 
the  brig, — New  London  Avenue,  named  after  McGary's 
town  at  home, — are  our  boats  and  square  cordage. 
Outside  of  all  these  is  a  magnificent  hut  of  barrel- 
frames  and  snow,  to  accommodate  our  Esquimaux 
visitors;  the  only  thing  about  it  exposed  to  hazard 
being  the  tempting  woodwork.  What  remains  to 
complete  our  camp-plot  is  the  rope  ])arrier  that  is  to 
mark  out  our  little  curtilage  around  the  vessel :  this, 
when  finished,  is  to  be  the  dividing-line  between  us 
and  the  rest  of  mankind. 

"  There  is  something  in  the  simplicity  of  all  this, 
'simplex  munditiis,'  which  might  commend  itself  to 
the  most  rigorous  taste.  Nothing  is  wasted  on  orna- 
ment. 

"October  4,  Wednesda}*. — I  sent  Hans  and  Hickoy 
two  days  ago  out  to  the  hunting-ice,  to  see  if  the 
natives  have  had  any  luck  with  the  walrus.  They  are 
back  to  night  with  bad  news, — no  meat,  no  Esquimaux. 
These  strange  children  of  the  snow  have  made  a  mys- 
terious flitting.  Where  or  hi'v,  it  is  hard  to  guess,  for 
they  have  no  sledges.  They  cannot  have  travelled 
very  far;  and  yet  tliey  have  such  unquiet  impulses, 
that,  once  on  the  track,  no  civilized  man  can  say  where 
they  will  bring  up. 

"Ohlsen  had  just  completed  a  sledge,  fashioned  like 
the  Smith  Sound  Icominciik,  with  an  improved  curva- 
ture  of    the    runners.       It   weighs    only   twenty-four 


11  ell  ling,  of 

ns  abeam  of 
tor  McGarv's 
lare  cordage, 
at  of  barrel- 
•  Esquimaux 
?d  to  hazard 

remains    to 
ier  that  is  to 

vessel :   this, 
l3  between  us 

y  of  all  this, 
lend  itself  to 
sted  on  orna- 


i  i. 


1  f 


H, 


WiJ! 


s  and  Ilickey 
to  see  if  the 
us.  They  are 
10  Esquimaux, 
made  a  mvs- 
d  to  guess,  for 
lave  travelled 
[uiet  impulses, 
can  say  where 

fashioned  like 
iproved  curva- 
ly    twenty-four 


a^ 


f?  s 


B 


•i 

i 

igl 

i 

'■;i ' 

■'ll 

n'r 

'jlj 

1      .' 

It--: 

1, 

'fi 

1  :  |i 

f],J 

li 

^ 

k, 

■I:! 


If 

I*' 


1  r 

< 

I  - 

i; 

1 

I 

( 

j 

1 

i ' 

i 


S 


■<; 


!    !1 


f  A 


I 


^1 


I  i; 


¥% 


<    1 

1 

Mi 

r    ' 

ik. 

iiiL. 

^ 


BEAU     A  N  D     C  U  B. 


887 


pounds,  and,  thou<^h  I  think  it  too  ^liort  foi  light 
draught,  it  is  just  the  article  our  Etah  neighbors 
would  delight  in  for  their  land-portages.  1  intended  it 
for  them,  as  a  great  price  I'or  a  great  stock  of  walrus- 
meat:  but  the  other  parties  to  the  bargain  have  llown. 

''October  5,  Thursday. — We  are  nearly  out  of  fresh 
meat  again,  one  rabljit  and  three  ducks  Ijeing  our  sum 
total.  We  have  been  on  short  allowance  for  several 
days.  What  vegetables  we  have — the  dried  apples  and 
peaches,  and  pickled  cabbage — have  lost  much  of  their 
anti-scorbutic  virtue  by  constant  use.  Our  spices  are 
all  gone.  Except  four  small  bottles  of  horse-radish, 
our  carte  is  comprised  in  three  lines — bread,  beef,  pork. 

'•I  must  be  oil"  after  these  Esquimaux.  They  cer- 
tainly have  meat,  and  wherever  they  have  gone  we  can 
follow.  Once  upon  their  trail,  our  hungry  instincts 
will  not  iisk  being  baflled.  I  will  stay  only  long 
enough  to  complete  my  latest  root-beer  brewage.  Its 
basis  is  the  big  crawling  willow,  the  miniature  giant  of 
our  Arctic  forests,  of  which  we  laid  in  a  stock  some 
weeks  ago.  It  is  rpiito  pleasantly  bitter,  and  I  hope 
to  get  it  fermenting  in  the  deck-house  without  extra 
fuel,  by  heat  from  below. 

"October  7,  Saturday. — Livel}'  sensation,  as  they 
say  in  the  land  of  olives  and  champagne.  'Nannook, 
nannook!' — 'A  bear,  a  bear!' — Hans  and  Morton  in  a 
breath ! 

"To  the  scandal  of  our  domestic  regulations,  the 
guns  were  all  impracticable.  AVhile  the  men  were 
loading   and   capping   anew,  I  seized   my  pillow-com- 


I  ' 


K 


■  I 


:Sr'^; 


:■ 


oc ; 


A      15  K  .■.  K-r  1  (;  II  T. 


III 
III 


i;:  ;. .   I 


})ani()n  slx-sliootor,  aiid  ran  on  deck.  A  iiu'diuni-sizi'tl 
boar,  Avitli  a  lour  moiitlis'  cuh,  Avas  in  active  wailarc 
witli  our  dogs.  Tlicy  wviw  luuij^ing  on  licr  .skirts,  and 
slie  with  wonderful  alertness  was  picking  out  one  \ic- 
tini  after  anotlier,  snatching  him  hy  the  nape  of  the 
neck,  and  Hinging  him  many  ieet  or  rather  yards,  by  a 
])arely  ])ercei)tihle  lUovement  of  her  head. 

"•Tudla,  our  nuister  dog,  was  already  liors  de  aniihat: 
he  had  been  tossed  twice.  Jenny,  just  as  1  emerged 
:';•(. \n  the  hatch,  was  making  an  extraordinary  somerset 
of  some  eight  fathoms,  and  alighted  senseless.  Old 
Whitey,  stanch  but  not  bear-wise,  had  l)een  the  Ih'st 
in  the  battle:  he  was  yelping  in  helplessness  on  the 
snow. 

"It  seemed  as  if  the  controversy  was  adjourned:  and 
Xannook  evidently  thought  so;  for  she  turned  oil'  to 
our  beef-barrels,  and  began  in  the  most  unconcerned 
numner  to  turn  them  over  and  nose  out  their  fatness. 
She  was  apparently  as  devoid  of  fear  as  any  of  the 
bears  in  the  stories  of  old  Barentz  and  the  Spitzbergen 
voyagers. 

"•I  lodged  a  pistol-ball  in  the  side  of  the  cub.  At 
once  the  mother  placed  her  little  one  between  her 
hind-legs,  and,  shoving  it  along,  made  her  way  behind 
the  beef-house.  Mr.  Ohlsen  wounded  her  as  she  went 
with  my  Webster  ritle ;  but  she  scarcely  noticed  it. 
She  tore  down  by  single  eflbrts  of  her  forcju-ms  the 
barrels  of  frozen  beef  which  made  the  triple  walls  of 
the  storehouse,  mounted  the  rubbish,  and,  snatching 
up   a   half-barrel   (jf  herrings,  carried  it  down  by  her 


cdiuiu-si/.C'tl 
ivo  warfare' 
[•  skirts,  ami 
out  oiR'  vic- 
iiapc  t)l'  the 
•  yards,  \)y  a 

f.s  <lc  aniihat: 
is  1  omorgod 
ary  soinorsct 
iisok'ss.  Old 
icon  the  Ihst 
sufss  on  the 

Ijoiinied:  and 
turned  oIV  to 
uiK'oncerned 
their  latness. 
i  any  of  the 
je  Spit/bergen 

Ithc  cnb.     At 

betAveen  her 
|r  way  behind 

as  she  went 
ly  noticed  it. 

ibrcanns  the 
Iriple  walls  of 
Ind,  snatching 

down  1)y  her 


('  T,  ()  S  F,     (i  r  A  U  T  K  U  S. 


:;s<) 


teeth,  and  was  making  oil".  It  was  time  to  ch)se,  I 
tho'iglit.  doing  \\[)  within  iialf  [)istol-range,  I  gave 
her  six  hucksliot.  She  th'()[»[)e(l,  but  instantly  rose, 
and,  getting  her  cub  into  its  former  position,  ni'  ved 
ofl'  once  more. 

"This  time  she  would  really  have  escaped  but  lor 
the  admirable  tactics  of  our  new  recruits  Irom  the 
Es(piimaux.  The  dogs  of  Smith's  S>u  id  are  educated 
more  thorouiihly  than  any  of  their  more;  southern 
brethren.  Next  to  the  walrus,  the  bear  is  the  sta[)le 
of  diet  to  t!.  '  north,  and,  exi  ^)t  the  fox,  sui)|)lies  the 
most  im])ortant  element  of  t'-e  wirdrobe.  Tnlike  the 
dogs  we  had  brought  with  us  from  IJallin's  Hay,  these 
were  trained  not  to  attack,  but  to  embaiTass.  'j'lu>y 
ran  in  circles  round  the  be  ',  and  hen  pursued  would 
keep  aJiead  with  regulated  gait,  their  comrades  eil'eet- 
ing  a  diversion  at  the  critical  moment  bv  a  nil)  at  her 
hind-(piarters.     This   was   done   so  systematically  and 


itl 


witli  so 


littl 


e   seeminu'  excitement  as  to  strike  ever\- 


one  on  Ijoard.  I  have  seen  bear-dogs  elsewhere  that 
had  been  drilled  to  relieve  each  other  in  the  7)t(  /rr  and 
avoid  the  direct  assault;  but  here,  two  dogs  without 
tration  of  attack  would  })ut  themselves 


even  a  demons 


before  the  path  of  the  animal,  and,  retreating  right 
and  left,  lead  him  into  a  profitless  pursuit  that  checked 
his  advance  completely. 

"The  poor  animal  was  still  backing  out,  yet  still 
fmhting,  carrying  along  her  wounded  cub,  embarrassed 
by  the  dogs  yet  gaining  distance  from  the  brig,  when 
Hans  and  myself  threw  in  the  odds  in  the  sha[)e  of  a 


I'  ' 


/ 


i'!ii! 


<    ! 


il 


I 


390 


CAI'TrUi:     OK     TIIK     CUIJ. 


couple  of  ritl('-I)alls.  She  stiiii'iiCi'iMJ  in  fVont  of  licr 
yoiin;:;  one,  lact'd  us  in  (loathlikc  (Irlliiiu'i',  and  onlv 
yjink  wIkmi  picrcod  by  six  more  biilk'ts. 

'"We  loiind  iiiiu'  halls  in  skiiiniiiji;  Ium"  body.  She 
was  of  mc'diuni  size,  very  U-aii,  and  without  a  })articl(' 
of  food  in  her  stomach.  Hunger  must  have  caused  her 
luildness.  The  uet  weight  of  the  cleansed  carcass  was 
three  hundred  pounds;  that  of  the  entire  animal,  six 
hundred  aiul  fifty;  her  length,  hut  seven  feet  eight 
inches. 

'']5ears  in  this  lean  condition  jire  much  the  most 
j)alataMe  food.  The  impregnation  of  fatty  oil  through 
the  ccdiular  tissue  makes  ii  well-fed  hear  nearly  uueat- 
a1»le.  The  tlesh  of  a  famished  heast,  although  less 
nutritious  as  a  fuel  diet,  is  rather  sweet  and  tender 
than  otherwise. 

''The  little  cub  is  larger  than  the  adjective  im])lies. 
She  was  taller  than  a  dog,  and  weighs  one  hundred 
and  fourteen  pounds.  Like  Morton's  bear  in  Keniu'dy's 
Channel,  she  sprang  upon  the  corpse  of  her  mother, 
and  raised  a  woful  lamentation  over  her  wounds.  She 
re[)elled  my  efforts  to  noose  her  with  great  ferocity; 
Ijut  at  last,  completely  nnizzled  with  a  line  fastened  by 
a  running  knot  between  her  jaws  and  the  back  of  lu'r 
head,  she  moved  oil'  to  the  brig  amid  the  clamor  of 
the  dogs.  We  have  her  now  chained  alongside,  but 
snarling  and  snapping  constantly,  evidently  sullering 
from  her  wound. 

'•()f  the  eight  dogs  who  took  i)art  in  this  passage  of 
arms,  only  one — 'Sneak,'  as  the  men  call  him,  'Young 


I 


e 
c 


h  K  A  U-ll  A  U  1  TS. 


301 


ont   of  Ikm" 
',  jind  only 

ImhIv.  She 
t  ii  |):irti('lo 
'  oauscd  luT 
carciiss  was 
juiiintil,  six 
1   ii'ct   oiglit 

•li  tli<>  most 
'  oil  llirough 
learly  uneat- 
Ithougli  k'ss 
:  and  tender 

live  implies, 
one  hundred 
n  Kennedy's 
her  mother, 
ounds.     She 
eat  ferocity; 
fastened  hy 
back  of  her 
le  chimor  of 
h)ngside,  but 
itlv  sulfering 

lis  pi\ssago  (if 
liini,  'Young 


Whitey.'  as  he  figures  in  this  jouiMial — h)st  a  llower 
from  his  cliaplet.  Ihit  two  nf  tlie  rest  escaped  with- 
out a  gri[). 

"Strange  to  say,  in  s[)it('  of  th«'  powerful  liings  which 
they  were  sultjccled  to  in  the  light,  iKtt  a  dog  sulfers 
seriously.  I  expected,  from  mj  knowledge  of  the 
hugging  pi'opensity  of  the  |>l;iidigrades,  that  the  ani- 
mal would  rear,  or  at  least  use  lici-  foreai'ui  ;  hut  slie 
invariably  seized  tlie  dogs  witii  hci-  teeth,  and.  after 
disposing  of  tliem  for  tlie  time,  alistained  J'n^m  follow- 
ing up  the  jul vantage.  'JMie  Kscpiiniaux  assert  that 
this  is  the  habit  of  the  hunted  bear.  One  of  our  Smith 
Sound  dogs,  'Jack,'  nuide  no  struggle  when  he  was 
seized,  but  was  Hung,  with  all  his  muscles  relaxed,  I 
hardl\- dare  to  sa\'  how  far;  the  next  instant  he  rose 
and  renewed  the  attack.  The  Ks(|uinuui.x  both  of 
Proven  and  of  this  country  sav  that  the  dons  soon 
learn  this  'possum-playing'  habit.  Jack  was  iin  old 
beur-dog. 

"The  bear  seems  to  l.)e  moic  ierocious  as  he  increases 
his  latitude,  or  more  probably  as  he  recedes  from  the 
hunting-lields. 

"At  Ot)minak,  last  winter,  (1852,)  an  Esquimaux 
and  his  son  were  nearly  killed  by  a  bear  that  had 
housed  himself  in  an  iceberg.  They  attacked  him 
with  the  lance,  but  he  turned  on  them  and  worsted 
them  badly  before  making  his  escape. 

"But  the  continued  pursuit  of  man  seems  to  have 
exerted  already  a  modifying  inlluence  u[>on  the  ursine 
character  in  South  Greenland;   at  all  events,  the  bears 


i  i 


'IX      ■ 


'•  I 


'I 


1 

1 

1           i 
i           i 
]           } 

i 

1 
• 

' 

1 

1 

i      » 

1 

1 

1 

h 


302 


1»K  A  U   S     LI  V  K  U. 


tlinr  lU'Nci'  attiU'k,  and  rww  in  scU'-dcfcnci'  .si'Moin 
inllict  injury  niton  llic  linntci-.  Many  iiistatuvs  liayi- 
occunvd  wiicrc  tiicy  liayc  (K'TcncUMl  IJKMnsi'lyi's  and 
oven  ('Iiai;L!,('d  al'lcr  Ixini;'  woundcil,  luit  in  none  oC  tlicni 
was  lili!  lost.  I  Iniyc  niysidl'  sliot  as  many  as  a  dozen 
lu'ai's   near   at    hand,  and   nuyor   but  once   ivcciyed  ii 


cliar^c  in  return. 


"I  liear»l  anotlier  ad\'enture  iVoni  tiie  Danes  as  oc- 
curring ill   IS.'M  : — 

"A  stout  Ks(|uiniau\',  an  assistant  to  tlio  e()o[)er 
ol"  l'[)ernayik, — not  a  (.'hristian,  hut  Ji  stout,  manly 
savage, — lired  at  a  she-heai",  and  the  animal  closed  on 
the  instant  of  receiying  the  hall.  The  man  Hung  hini- 
.seir  on  the  ground,  [)utting  forward  his  arm  to  protect 
his  head,  )>ut  Iving  afterward  perfectly  motionless. 
The  beast  was  taken  in.  She  uaye  the  arm  a  bite  or 
twi),  but,  (inding  hw  enemy  did  not  moye,  she  retired  a 
few  paces  and  sat  upon  her  haunches  to  watch.  Ihit 
she  did  not  watch  as  carefulh'  as  she  shoidd  haye  done, 
for  the  hunter  adroith  reloaded  his  rille  and  killed  her 
with  the  second  shot. 

"October  8,  Sunda\-. — When  I  was  out  in  the  Ad- 
vance, ^vith  Captain  De  Ilaven.  I  satisfied  myself  that 
it  was  a  vulvar  iji'eiudice  to  regard  the  liver  of  the 
bear  as  poisonous.  1  ate  of  it  freely  myself,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  making  it  a  favorite  dish  with  the  mess. 
But  I  find  to  my  cost  that  it  may  sometimes  be  more 
savory  than  safe.  The  cub's  liver  Avas  my  sup[)er  last 
night,  and  to-day  1  have  the  sym[)toms  of  i)oison  in  full 
measure — -vertigo,  diarrhuea,  and  their  concomitants." 


iij.  { 


rt 


Dor  II T  r  r  i,    d  i  i;t. 


"<»". 
#».'•> 


(•('  si'Mom 
nu'os  liiivo 
sclvi's  and 
lU'  nl"  llinu 
as  a  «l()/A'n 
vcccivc'il   a 

lanes  as  oc- 

tho    o()o[u'i' 
tout,  manly 
111  I'losrd  on 
n  lliiiii;'  liiiii- 
ni  to  [)rotc'cl 
motionless. 
Inn  a  Mtr  or 
u'  retired  a 
atcli.      liut 
have  doiio, 
id  killed  her 

in  the  Ad- 
nivselt'  that 
liver  ol'  the 
eli;  and  suc- 
h   the   mess, 
lies  be  more 
y  sui)per  last 
poison  in  Tull 
eomitants." 


I  nia\'  mention,  in  connection  witli  the  (act  which  1 
liave  given  I'roni  my  jonrnal,  that  1  nitcatcd  the  e\- 
perinient  seve!'al  times  al'ti-rward,  and  sometimes,  hut 


nu 


t  ah 


>vavs,  \\\ 


til   tl 


le  same  resii 


It.      1 


reinend»er  once 


near   the   (Jreat   (liacier,   all   our   l»arty   sickened  after 
leedin.!;' on  the  liver  of  a  hear  that  we  had  killed;  and 


a 


lew  weeks  al'terward,  when  w 


I'  weri^  teiu|>t('tl   intt)  a 


similar  iiidnl"renee,  we  were  Ibrced  to  nndiMuo  the  same 
penanee.  Ihe  animal  in  hoth  cases  was  uld  and  Cat. 
The  (logs  ate  to  repletion,  with(ait  injury. 

Another  article  ol'  diet,  less  inviting  at  lirst,  hut 
which  I  I'ound  more  innocuuus,  was  thi'  rat.  We  had 
tailed  to  exterminate  this  animal  \)y  our  varied  and 
perilous  ell'orts  of  the  year  helbre,  and  a  well-jnstilied 
I'ear  Ibrhade  our  renewing  the  crusade.  It  was  mar- 
vellous,  in  a  region  a[)parently  so  uidavorahle  to  re[)ro- 
duetion,  what  a  [)erleet  warren  we  soon  had  on  hoard. 
Their  impudence  and  address  increased  with  their 
mnnhers.  It  became  impossibU;  to  stow  any  thing  he- 
low  decks.  Furs,  woollens,  shoes,  specimens  of  natural 
history,  every  thing  we  disliked  to  lose,  however  little 
valuable  to  them,  w 
They  harhored  amon 


as    gnawed   into    and    destroyed. 


tl 


le  mens  heiltlinii'  m 


Idi 


the  t 


ore- 


castle,  and  showed  such  boldness  in  iiglil  and  such 
dexterity  in  dodging  missiles  that  they  were  toleratetl 
at  last  as  inevitable  nuisances.  Belbre  the  winter 
ended,  I  avenged  our  griefs  by  decimating  them  for  my 
private  table.  I  find  in  my  journal  of  the  lOth  of 
October  an  anecdote  that  illustrates  their  boh'  less: — 
"We  have  moved  every  thing  movable  ou'     jjon  the 


« 


■I  '■ 


'I     i- 


'i  l£ 


im 


304 


U  A  T  S,     IJ  A  T  S,     IJ  A  T  S. 


lev,  and,  bosidcs  our  dividi  r  moss  wjill  botween  our 
sun  turn  jind  the  Ibrt'castle,  we  liavc  ))uilt  up  ii  rude 
harrier  of  our  iron  sheatliiug  to  prevent  these  ahonii- 
naJjle  I'ats  I'roni  gnawing  through.  It  is  all  in  vain. 
Thev  are  everywhere  alread\',  under  the  stove,  in  the 
steward's  loekers,  in  our  cushions,  ajjout  our  beds.  If  I 
^vas  asked  wluit,  after  darkness  and  cold  and  scurvx'. 
are  the  tliree  besetting  curses  of  our  Arctic  sojourn.  I 
should  say,  Kats,  IIats,  Kats.     A  mother-rat  bit  niv 

iiuiier  to  the  bone  last  Friday,  as  I  ^vas  intrudinu'  niv 

<  ,  -  I-       k 

hand  into  a  bear-skin  mitten  ■which  she  had  chosen  as 
a  homestead  for  her  little  family.  I  ^yithdre^v  it  of 
course  ^vitll  instinctive  courtesy;  but  among  them  they 
carried  off  the  mitten  before  I  could  suck  the  iinua'r. 

'•Last  week,  I  sent  down  Khina,  the  most  intelligent 
dog  of  our  whole  })ack,  to  bivouac  in  their  citadel  for- 
ward: I  thought  she  might  at  least  be  able  to  defend 
lier'  li'  against  them,  for  she  had  distinguished  herself 
in  the  bear-hunt.  81ie  slept  very  well  for  a  cou])le  of 
hours  on  a  bed  she  had  chosen  for  herself  on  the  to}) 
of  some  iron  spikes.  But  the  rats  could  not  or  would 
not  forego  the  horny  skin  about  her  paws;  and  they 
gnawed  her  feet  and  nails  so  ferociously  that  we  drew 
her  up  yel})ing  and  vanquished." 

IJefore  I  pass  from  these  intrepid  and  pertinacious 
visitors,  let  me  add  that  on  the  whole  I  am  personally 
much  their  debtor.  Through  the  long  winter  night, 
Ilans  used  to  beguile  his  lonel}'  hours  of  watch  by 
shooting  them  with  the  bow  and  arrow.  The  repug- 
nance of  my  associates  to  share  with   me    the    table 


1^ 


x'tween  our 
t  up  II  rude 
lit'so  ahonii- 
iill  in  VMin. 
stove,  iu  the 
ir  beds.    Ill 
and  seur\  y, 
:ic  sojourn.  I 
r-rtit  l)it  my 
ntrudin^LT  my 
[id  ehosen  tis 
thdrew  it  of 
ig  them  they 
the  linger. 
)st  intelligent 
r  citadel  lor- 
ble  to  defend 
shed  herself 
a  cou})le  of 
f  on  the  top 
not  or  Avould 
ws;  and  they 
that  Ave  drew 

pertinacious 
im  personally 
AV  inter  night, 
of  watch  by 
The  repng- 
me    the    table 


THE     AUCTIC      HAKE 


305 


luxury  of  "such  small  deer"  gave  me  the  frequent 
advantage  of  a  fresh-meat  sou[>,  which  contributed  no 
doul)t  to  my  comparative  inununity  from  scurvy.  I 
had  only  one  competitor  in  tlie  dis[)ensatiou  of  this 
e/ifnt/tif,  or  rafher  one  com[)anion;  for  there  was  an 
a))undance  for  both.  It  was  a  fox: — we  caught  and 
domesticated  him  late  in  the  winter;  but  the  scantiness 
of  our  resources,  and  of  course  his  own,  soon  instructi'd 
him  in  all  the  antipathies  of  a  terrier.  He  had  onl^' 
one  fault  as  a  rat-catcher:  lie  would  never  catch  a 
second  till  he  had  eaten  the  first. 

At  the  date  of  these  entries  the  Arctic  hares  had 
not  ceased  to  be  numerous  a])out  our  harbor.  Thev 
were  verv  beautiful,  as  white  as  swan^'  dov,  n,  ^ith  a 
crescent  of  black  nnirkinu'  the  ear-tii)s.  Thev  feed  on 
the  bark  and  catkins  of  tliv.  willow,  and  all'ect  the 
stony  sides  of  the  worn-down  rocks,  where  they  liini 
l)rotection  from  the  wind  and  snow-drifts.  They  do  not 
burrow  like  our  hares  at  home,  but  scpiat  in  crevices  or 
under  large  stones.  Their  average  weight  is  al)out 
nine  })oun(ls.  They  would  have  entered  largely  into 
our  diet-list  but  for  our  Esipiimaux  dogs,  who  regarded 
them  with  relishing  appetite.  Pany  found  the  hare  at 
Melville  Island,  in  hititude  75°;  but  we  have  traced  it 
from  Littleton  Island  as  far  north  as  7'J°  OS',  and  its 
range  probably  extends  still  farther  toward  tlie  Pole. 
Its  structure  and  habits  enabK'  it  to  penetrate  the 
snow-crusts,  and  obtain  food  where  the  reindeer  and 
the  nnisk-ox  perish  in  conseipience  of  the  glay-ed  co\er- 
iuL!;  of  their  feedinu-irrounds. 


ii 


!  i 


It  I. 


J  1 


1 1  + 


306 


THE     ICE-F(»()T     CANOPY. 


'•OctoIxM*  1 1,  Wt'tliu'sday. — TliiTt'  is  no  lu'od  ot'look- 
iii,ii'  iit  the  tlicrmoiiu'trr  iind  conipiiriii^'  registers,  to 
show  liow  iar  tliis  season  lias  advanced  beyond  its 
fellow  of  last  vear.  The  ice-l'oot  is  more  easih  read, 
and  (jnite  as  certain. 


.1 — •=.*-- 


'"'^''^^'^''iiiiip'w 


THE      ICE-FOOT      CANOPY. 


'J 


''The  under  part  of  it  is  covered  now  with  lon;f  sta- 
lactitic  columns  of  ice.  uulike  the  ordinarv  icicle  in 
sha[)e,  lor  they  have  tiie  charactei'istic  huluc  of  the 
cai-honate-ol'-lime  stalactite.  They  look  like  the  fan- 
tastic columns  hani:in,Lr  I'rom  the  I'oof  of  a  frozen 
temi)le.   the  dark   recess   hehind   them  giviuLi;    all    the 


>  'i 


('('(1  of  look- 

■CLL'istt'VS,    to 

lu'vond    its 
oasih  rc'iul. 


.villi  loii;i"  f^t.51- 

iiavy   \vw\v  in 

l)iili:;i'  ol'   the 

like    the  Inn- 

ol"    a    tVo/i'U 

ivinn'    all    Uk- 


r 


S  E  A  U  C  II      I"  ( )  It      K  S  (i  U  1  -M  A  L  \. 


397 


cftl'ct  of  a  grotto.  There  is  one  that  l)rings  back  to 
me  saddened  memories  of  Klephanta  and  the  merry 
friends  that  hore  me  romi)anv  nnder  its  rock-chiselled 
portico.  The  fig-trees  and  the  palms,  and  the  gallant 
major's  cnrries  and  his  old  India  ale,  are  wanting  in 
the  picture.  Sometimes  again  it  is  a  canopy  fringed 
with  gems  in  the  mooidight.  Nothing  can  be  purer  or 
more  beautiful. 

"The  ice  has  begun  to  fasten  on  our  brig:  I  have 
called  a  consultation  of  oHicers  to  determine  how  she 
may  be  best  secured. 

"October  13,  Friday. — The  Esquimaux  liavc  not 
been  near  us,  and  it  is  a  pu///,le  of  some  interest  where 
they  have  retreated  to.  Wherever  they  are,  there 
must  be  our  hunting-grounds,  for  they  certainly  have 
not  changed  their  (puirters  to  f,  more  destitute  region. 
I  have  sent  Morton  and  Hans  to-day  to  track  them  out 
if  they  can.  They  carry  a  hand-sledge  with  tliem, 
Ohlsen's  last  manufacture,  ride  with  the  doii-slediie  as 
far  as  Anoatok,  and  leave  the  old  dogs  of  our  team 
there.  From  that  point  they  are  to  try  a  device  of  my 
own.  We  have  Ji  cou[)le  of  dogs  that  we  got  from 
these  same  Es(piinuiux,  wlio  arc  at  least  as  instinctive 
a*-"  their  former  masters.  One  of  these  thev  are  to  let 
run,  holding  the  other  by  a  long  leash.  I  feel  confident 
that  the  free  dog  will  find  the  camping-ground,  and  I 
tliiidv  it  probable  the  other  will  Ibllow.  I  thought  of 
tying  the  two  together;  l)ut  it  would  emijarrass  their 
movements,  and  give  them  something  to  occupy  their 
minds  besides  the  leading  object  of  their  mission. 


i 


«8r 


•^'1 


!    '!  ,p. 


'< 


:) 


m 


^ 


f 


398 


DOGS      A. SI)      AVOLVilS. 


"October  14,  Satunliiy. — Mr.  Vrilsoii  nn<l  Ilickoy  re- 
ported last  night  a  wolf  at  the  m-jat-liouse.  Nou',  the 
mcat-liouse  is  a  thiii^'  of  too  much  worth  to  be  lel't  U) 
casualty,  and  a  wolf  uiiuht  incidentally  add  some  fre>h- 
ness  of  liavor  to  its  contents.  So  I  went  out  in  all 
haste  with  the  Marston  rillc,  but  without  my  mittens 
and  with  oidy  a  siiiiile  cartridge.  The  metal  burnt  my 
hands,  as  metal  is  apt  to  do  at  fd'ty  degrees  l)elo\v 
the  })oiiit  of  freezing;  but  F  got  a  somewhat  rai)id 
shot.  I  hit one  of  our  dogs,  a  truant  from  Mor- 
ton's team;  luckilv  a  ilesh-wound  onlv,  for  he  is  too 
good  a  beast  to  lose.  1  could  have  sworn  he  was  a 
wolf." 

Tiiere  is  so  nnich  of  identical  character  between  our 
Arctic  dogs  and  wolves,  that  I  am  inclined  to  aixree 
witli  Mr.  Broderip,  who  in  the  "Zoological  Kecrea- 
tions"  assigns  to  them  a  family  origin.  The  oblique 
position  of  the  wolf's  eye  i;^  'M)t  uncommon  among 
the  dogs  of  my  team.  I  have  a  slut,  one  of  the  tamest 
and  nios  tlU'ctionate  of  the  whole  of  them,  who  has 
the  long  lcg^l,  and  compact  body,  and  drooping  tail, 
and  wild,  scared  expressi(m  of  the  eye,  wdiich  some 
naturalists  have  su[)posed  to  characterize  the  wolf 
alone.  When  domesticated  early, — and  it  is  easy  to 
domesticate  him, — the  wolf  follows  and  l»)ves  you  like 
a  doii:.  That  thev  are  fond  of  a  loose  foot  proves 
nothing:  many  of  our  pack  will  run  away  for  weeks 
into  the  wilderness  of  ice;  3et  they  cannot  be  |)er- 
suaded  when  they  come  back  to  inhabit  the  kennel  we 
have  built  for  them  oidv  a  hundred  xards  off.     Thev 


th( 


■••^1 


T  11  K  1  K      S  I  M  1  ]..\  \l  I  T  V. 


oDD 


I  lie  key  ro- 

Now,  the 

l)e  left  to 
;()ine  [\v>\i- 
out  ill  all 
ly  mittens 
1  burnt  my 
rees  below 
AJiat   rapid 

from  Mor- 
r  he  is  too 
1  he  \vas  a 

)etweeu  our 
i>(l  to   agree 
eal   Keerea- 
riie  oblique 
mon   among 
f  the  tamest 
m,  ^vho  has 
)()ping   tail, 
whieh  some 
;e    the    Avolf 
is  easy  to 
ves  you  like 
foot    proves 
^y  for  weeks 
mot  be  pi'r- 
le  kcmnel  we 
s  oir.     They 


croueli  around  ibr  the  eoinpanion-!iip  of  men.  J>otii 
uninials  howl  in  unison  alike  :  the  Ixdl  at  the  settlv 
ments  of  South  Greenland  alwavs  starts  tiiem.  Th<  !r 
Ibotprint  is  the  same,  at  least  in  Smith's  Sound.  Dr. 
Iviehardson's  remark  to  the  contrary  made  me  observe 
the  fact  that  our  nortliern  dogs  leave  the  same  "spread 
traek"  of  the  toes  wlien  running,  though  not  perhaps 
as  W(dl  marked  as  ihe  wolf's. 

The  old  proverb,  and  the  eireumstanee  of  the  wolf 
liaviim"  sometimes  carried  oil"  an  l]s(|uimaux  doi:",  has 
been  alluded  to  bv  the  editors  of  the  ''Diirusion  ot 
Knowledge  lilbrary."  Ihit  this  too  is  inconclusive,  I'or 
the  [)roverb  is  false.  It  is  not  quite  a  month  ago  since 
I  found  five  of  (nir  dogs  gluttonizing  on  the  carcasses 
of  their  dead  companions  who  luid  })een  thrown  out 
on  a  rubbish-heap;  and  I  have  seen  pups  only  two 
months  old  risiv  an  indigestion  by  overfeeding  on  their 
twin  brethren  who  had  preceded  them  in  a  like  im- 
prudence. 

Nor  is  there  any  thing  in  the  supposed  dif  rencc  of 
strength.  The  Ksipiimaux  dog  of  Smith's  Souiid  en- 
counters the  wolf  I'earlessly  and  with  success.  The 
wolves  of  Northern  America  never  venture  near  the 
lints;  but  it  is  well  known  that  when  they  have  been 
chasing  the  deer  or  the  moose,  the  dogs  have  C(»me  up 
as  rivals  "n  the  hunt,  beaten  them  off  and  appro[)riated 
the  })rey  to  themselves. 

"October  lb,  Monday. — I  have  been  wearied  and 
vexed    for   half  a   day    by   a  vain    chase    after   some 


i     '    ! 


I     'I 


t 

S    1' 


i  i 


,  I 


t  .1 


(1  'f 


I:'  I 


';! 


'I- 


i^ 


!?: 


1- 


400 


li  i;  A  11      A  N  I)      FOX. 


Ixar-t nicks.  TIitTe  was  a  Ibx  evidently  lollowing 
them,  (^'.  (((ijdjni.s.y' 

There  are  ral)les  ab<jiit  tlie  rehitioii  l)et\veen  tliese 
two  aninials  which  1  once  thouj:ht  my  obsei'vatioiis 
liad  coiilh'iiied.  Tliey  are  very  often  loin  ( I  together: 
the  bear  striding  on  ahead  with  his  prey;  the  fox 
behind  gathering  in  the  crumbs  as  they  fall  ;  and  I 
have  often  seen  the  [);irasite  licking  at  the  traces  of 
a  wounded  seal  Avhii'h  his  cham})ion  had  l)orne  olf 
over  the  snow.  The  story  is  that  the  two  hunt  in 
coujiles.  I  doubt  this  now.  though  it  is  certain  that 
the  inferior  animal  rejoices  in  his  association  with  the 
su])erior,  at  least  for  the  2)ro(its,  if  not  the  synijiatiiy  it 
brings  to  him.  ]  once  wounded  a  bear  when  I  was  out 
with  Morton  duj'inii'  our  former  voxaixe,  and  followed 
him  for  twelve  miles  over  the  ice.  A  miserable  little 
ibx  traxelled  close  behind  his  patron,  and  licked  up 
the  blood  wherever  he  lay  down.  The  bear  at  last 
made  the  water;  and,  as  we  returned  from  our  fruitless 
chase,  v.e  saw  the  fox  running  at  full  speed  along  tlu; 
I'dge  of  the  thin  ice,  jss  if  to  rejoin  him.  It  is  a  mis- 
take to  suppose  he  cannot  swim:  he  does,  and  that 
boldly., 

'•Octo])er  10,  Thursday. — Our  lilack  dog  Erebus  has 
come  l)ack  to  the  brig.  Morton  has  perhaps  released 
liim,  but  he  has  more  probably-  broken  loose. 

"J  have  no  doubt  Mortcjn  is  makini"'  the  best  of  his 
way  after  the  Kscjuimaiix.  These  trips  are  valuable  to 
us.  even  when  they  fail  of  their  immediate  object. 
They  keep  the  natives    in   wholesome   respect  for  us, 


y    lollowing 

()l)si,'rvati()iis 

(I  tojit'tlicr : 
L>v ;    the   lox 

{\\\\  ;  iiiul  I 
he  traces  of 
\(l  bonit'  oil 
two   liimt  ill 

cH'i'taiu  tliat 
.tioii  with  the 
3  sviiipatliv  it 
u'li  I  was  out 

iiud   toUoNVcd 
liscrablo  littU' 

11(1  licked   lip 
I'  Ijear   at  last 

I  our  iViiitlcss 

ccd  along  the 
It  is  a  mis- 

oc'S,  and  that 

)n;  Eivhiis  has 

I'liaps  released 

lose. 

Ihe  best  of  lii^^ 

ire  valual)le  to 

icdiate    ol/iec't. 

respect  ibr  us. 


W  1  X  T  KM     (i  V  A  KT  K  U  S. 


401 


We  are  caretul  to  impress  tlieiii  with  our  physical 
prowess,  and  avoid  showing-  either  fatigue  or  cold  when 
we  are  travelling  together.  1  could  not  hel})  being 
amused  some  ten  days  ago  with  the  complacent  manner 
of  Myouk,  as  he  liooked  himself  to  me  for  support  after 
I  had  !)een  walking  for  thirty  mik>s  ahead  of  the  sledge. 
The  feUow  was  worth  four  of  me;  l)ut  he  let  me  carry 
liim  ahnost  as  far  as  the  hind-ice. 


IHE       BRIG      IN       HER       SECOND      WINTER. 


••  We    have   been   compK'tiiig   our   arrangements   lor 

raising  the  Ijrig.     The  heavy  nmsses  of  ice  that  adhere 

to  her  in  the  winter  make  her  condition  dangerous  at 

seasons  of  low  tide.     Her  fruine  could  not  sustain  the 

}»ressure  of  such  a  weiglit.     Our  ol)ject,  therelbn*,  has 

heeii  to  lift  her  mechanically  above  her  line  of  llotation, 

and  let  her  freeze  in  on  ;i  sort  of  ice-dock:   so  that  the 
Vol..  1. —•_'•; 


1   t 


1    '\ 


i\    1^1 


402 


M  ()  H  T  0  X    S      H  E  T  V  K  N. 


i '. 


1 1 


ij 


i  r 


ice  around  lior  as  it  sinks  niav  tako  the  lutttoni  and 
hold  her  up  tdear  of  the  (hmger.  We  liave  detaelied 
four  of  the  massive  beams  that  were  intended  to  resist 
the  hiterai  pressure  of  nips,  and  have  phu'ed  them  as 
shores,  two  on  each  side  of  the  vessel,  opposite  the 
channels.  Brooks  has  rigLCed  a  crab  or  capstan  (m  tlic 
floe,  and  has  passed  the  chain  cable  under  the  keel  at 
four  bearinir-points.  As  these  are  hauled  in  by  the  crab 
and  the  vessel  rises,  the  shores  are  made  to  take  hold 
under  heavy  cleats  spiked  below  the  bulwarks,  and  in 
this  manner  to  sustain  her  weight. 

"We  made  our  first  trial  of  the  apparatus  to-day. 
The  chains  held  perfectly,  and  had  raised  the  ])rig 
nearly  three  feet,  when  away  went  one  of  our  chain- 
slings,  and  she  fell  back  of  course  to  her  more  familiar 
bearings.  We  will  repeat  the  experiment  to-morrow, 
using  six  chains,  two  at  each  line  of  stress. 

"October  21,  Saturday. — Hard  at  it  still,  slinging 
chains  and  planting  f^hores.  The  thermometer  is  too 
near  zero  for  work  like  this.  We  swaddle  our  feet  iu 
old  cloth,  and  guard  our  hands  with  fur  mits;  but  the 
cold  iron  bites  through  them  all. 

"G.oO  P.M. — Morton  and  Hans  are  in,  after  tracking 
the  Esquimaux  to  the  lower  settlement  of  Etah.  T 
cannot  give  their  report  to-night:  the  poor  fellows  are 
completely  knocked  up  by  the  hardships  of  their  march. 
Hans,  who  is  iJways  careless  of  powder  and  fire-arms,—  - 
a  trait  which  I  have  observed  among  both  the  Ame- 
rican and  the  Oriental  savages, — exploded  his  powder- 
flask  while  attemptmg  to  kindle   a   tinder-fire.     The 


i  II 


)()tt()iu  and 
,'0  (U'taclRMl 
[(.'d  to  resist 
•cd  thorn  MS 
)pp()sUo   the 
•stall  on  thi» 
r  the  keel  at 
I  hy  the  cral) 
to  take  hold 
arks,  and  in 

vatus  to-day. 
sed  the  hrig 
)f  our  ehaiii- 
nore  familiar 
it  to-morrow, 

s. 

still,  slinging 
nneter  is  too 
e  our  feet  iu 
inits;  but  the 

fter  tracking 

of  Etah.     T 
or  fellows  are 

their  march, 
d  fire-arms, — 

th  the  Ame- 
d  his  powder- 
der-lire.     The 


\ 


THE      LIGHT      KECK  1)1  NO. 


403 


explosion  has  risked  liis  hand.  I  have  dressed  it,  ex- 
tracting several  pieces  of  foreign  matter  and  poulticing 
it  in  vi'ast  and  charcoal.  Morton  has  frostbitten  both 
his  heels;  1  hope  not  too  severely,  for  the  indurated 
skin  of  the  lieel  makes  it  a  bad  region  for  suppuration. 
Hut  they  l)ring  us  two  hundred  and  seventy  })ounds  of 
ualru.s-meat  and  a  couple  of  foxes.  This  sui)ply.  with 
wliat  we  have  remaining  of  our  two  bear.s,  must  last  us 
till  the  return  of  daylight  allows  us  to  join  tlie  natives 
in  tlieir  hunts. 

"The  light  is  fast  leaving  us.  The  sun  has  ceased 
to  reacli  tlie  vessel.  The  northeastern  headhinds  or 
their  southern  faces  up  the  fiords  have  still  a  warm 
yellow  tint,  and  the  pinnacles  of  the  icebergs  far  out 
(m  the  Hoes  are  lighted  up  at  noonday:  but  all  else  is 
dark  shadow." 


m^ 


OUH   GREENLAND   SLEDGE"^ 


I     .' 


M 


V    ■  < 


Nl 


li 


i 


,:  1. 


1;; 


CHAPTER   XXX. 

JOURNKY  OF  MORTON  AND  HANS  —  RECKI'TION  —  TIIK  IILT  —  TIIK 
WALRUS — WALRUS-HUNT — TilK  CONTEST — 11/ BITS  OF  WALRUS — 
FEROCITY  OF  THE  WALRUS-  THE  VICTORY — THE  JUIULKE  —  A 
SIPAK. 

lournfn  of  glorton  anb  ^ans. 

MoKTOX  rcjiclied  tlio  huts  beyond  Anoatok  upon  the 
fourth  day  after  leaving  the  brig. 

The  Httle  settlement  is  inside  the  northeastern 
islands  of  llartstene  IJay,  about  five  miles  from  Grav's 
Fiord,  and  some  sixty-live  or  seventy  from  our  l^riu. 
The  slope  on  which  it  stands  fronts  the  southwest,  and 
is  liroteeted  from  the  north  and  northeast  by  a  roek\' 
island  and  the  hills  of  the  mainland. 

There  were  four  huts;  l)ut  two  of  thom  are  in  ruins. 
They  were  all  of  them  the  homes  of  families  onlv  four 
winters  ago.  Of  the  two  which  are  still  habital)!*'. 
Myouk,  his  father,  mother,  brother,  and  sister  occupied 
one;  and  Awahtok  and  Ootuniali,  with  their  wives  and 
three  young  ones,  the  other.  The  little  community 
had  lost  two  of  its  mem])ers  by  death  since  the  spring. 

They    received    Morton    and    his    companion    witli 

404 


I 


TMKIR      HKCKI'TION. 


405 


mucli  kiixlm'ss,  ^Ivin^  tliciii  water  to  drink.  riil>l)inf^ 
tlu'ir  il't't,  (Iryiiij^-  tlu'ir  inoccasliis,  and  the  like.  The 
women,  who  did  this  with  soinetliing  of  the  good-wile's 
ail"  of  prerogative,  seemed  to  have  toned  down  much  of 


-f^ 


HE    llt'T  —  TUF. 

OF    WAI.IU  .S— 

E    jUUll.r.K  —  A 


tok  u[)on  the 

northeastern 

from  Gray's 

lorn  our  brig 

uthwest.  and 

t  by  a  r(K'ky 

are  in  ruins. 
Ilies  only  four 
[ill  habitable, 
lister  occupied 
leir  wives  and 
le  connnunity 

[^Q  the  spring. 

ipanion    with 


■■  y^^m 


PORTRAIT      OF      OOruNIAH. 


the  rudeness  vhich  characterized  the  bachelor  settle- 
ment at  Anoatok.  The  lamps  were  cheerful  and  smoke- 
h'ss,  and  the  huts  much  less  fdtliy.  Each  liad  its  two 
litmj)-(ires  constantly  burning,  with  a,  framework  of 
bone  hooks  and  walrus-line  above  them  lor  drying  the 
wet  clothes  of  the  household.     Except  a  few  dog-skins, 


II    .11 


■^f 


^J 


r|^ 

'^\*, 


A^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


A 


<;j 


lip   MS> 
<£>   #?  ^      ////, 


^ 


Va 


1.0 


I.I 


■>•  Ih    IIIII  2  2 

!i:  ii£  llllio 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4 

1.6 

-< 6"     - 

► 

'/a 


& 


/a 


^^ 


/: 


O^A 


m 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


w. 


(/J 


o 


li  w 


'■11 


!■■' 


h 


(I'll 


lilt 


11 


['■^ 


406 


M  ()  It  T  0  X    S      J  O  U  K  X  K  Y. 


which  are  used  as  a  su})})()i't  to  tlie  small  of  the  hack, 
the  dais  was  destitute  of  sleeping-accomiiiodations 
altogether:  a  single  walrus-hide  was  spread  out  for 
Morton  and  Hans.  The  hut  had  the  usual  tossut,  at 
least  twelve  feet  long, — very  low,  straight,  and  level, 
until  it  reached  the  inner  part  of  the  chamber,  when 
it  rose  abruptly  by  a  small  hole,  through  which  with 


ETAH,      AWAHTOK'S      HUT. 


some  squeezing  was  the  entrance  into  the  true-  apart- 
ment. Over  this  entrance  was  the  rude  window,  with 
its  scraped  seal-intestine  instead  of  glass,  heavily  coated 
with  frost  of  course ;  but  a  small  eye-hole  commanding 
the  bay  enabled  the  in-dwellers  to  peep  out  and  spetdv 
or  call  to  any  who  were  outside.  A  smoke-hole  passed 
through  the  roof. 

When  all  the  f\imily,  with  Morton  and  Hans,  were 
gathered  together,  the  two  lamps  in  full  blaze  and  the 


of  the  l)!ick, 
oiniiiodations 
read  out  i'oi 
iial  tossut,  at 
:it,  and  level, 
laiiiber,  when 
1  Avhieh  with 


■Pk-       t'W^P 


le  true-  apart- 
window,  with 
heavily  coated 
e  commandini;' 
out  and  speak 
ic-hoh^  passed 

Lid  Hans,  were 
bhize  and  the 


A  W  A  II  TO  K    S      II  r  T, 


407 


narrow  hole  of  entrance  covered  1)V  a  Hat  stone,  the 
heat  became  insupportable.  Outside,  the  therniometer 
stood  at  30°  below  zero;  within,  90°  above:  a  difler- 
ence  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees. 

The  vermin  were  not  as  trouljlesome  as  in  the 
Anoatok  dormitory,  the  natives  lianLLin*-'  their  clothini;' 
over  the  lamp-frames,  and  hing  down  to  sleep  per- 
fectly naked,  wdth  the  exception  of  a  sort  of  T  bandage, 
as  surgeons  call  it,  of  seal-skin,  three  inches  wide,  worn 
by  the  \vomen  as  a  badge  of  their  sex,  and  supported 
by  a  mere  strip  around  the  hips. 

After  sharing  the  supper  of  their  hosts, — that  is  to 
say,  after  disposing  of  six  frozen  auks  apiece, — the 
visitors  stretched  themselves  out  and  passed  the  night 
in  unbroken  perspiration  and  slumber.  It  was  evident 
from  the  meagreness  of  the  larder  that  the  hunters  of 
the  family  had  work  to  do ;  and  from  some  signs,  which 
did  not  escape  the  sagacity  of  Morton,  it  was  plain  that 
Myouk  and  his  father  had  determined  to  seek  their 
next  dinner  upon  the  floes.  They  were  going  upon  a 
w^alrus-hunt ;  and  Morton,  true  to  the  mission  with 
which  I  had  charged  him,  invited  himself  and  Hans  to 
be  of  the  party. 

I  have  not  yet  described  one  of  these  exciting  inci- 
dents of  Esquimaux  life.  Morton  was  full  of  the  one 
he  witnessed  ;  and  his  account  of  it  when  he  came  back 
was  so  graphic  that  I  should  be  glad  to  escape  from 
the  egotism  of  personal  narrative  by  giving  it  in  his 
own  words.  Let  me  first,  however,  endeavor  to  de- 
scribe the  animal. 


I 


408 


MORTONS     JOU  R  X  K  V 


II  .( 


IHh  portrait  on  a  neigliborin^^  page  is  truer  to  nature 
than  any  I  have  seen  in  the  books  :  the  specimens  in 
the  mnsenms  of  collectors  are  imperfect,  on  acconnt  of 
the  drying  of  the  skin  of  the  face  against  the  skulk 
The  head  of  the  walrus  has  not  the  characteristic  oval 
of  the  seal:  on  the  contrary,  the  frontal  bone  is  so 
covered  as  to  present  a  steep  descent  to  the  eyes  and 
a  sqnare,  ])locked-out  aspect  to  the  npper  face.  The 
mnzzle  is  less  protruding  than  the  seal's,  iind  tlie  cheeks 
and  lips  are  completely  masked  by  the  heavy  quill-like 


m 


I:  •   V    ;  ( 


:    i' 


Lil 


I  i- 


t-  * 

m 


i*4«Hi.--^*i 


"Xm 


ESQUIMAUX       SLEDGE. 


bristles.  Add  to  this  the  tusks  as  a  garniture  to  the 
lower  face;  and  you  have  for  the  walrus  a  grim,  fero- 
cious aspect  peculiarly  his  own.  I  have  seen  him  with 
tusks  nearly  thirty  inches  long;  his  body  not  less  than 
eii>'hteen  feet.  When  of  this  size  he  certain^v  reminds 
you  of  the  elephant  more  than  any  other  living 
monster. 

The  resemblance  of  the  walrus  to  man  has  been 
greatly  overrated.  The  notion  occurs  in  our  systematic 
treatises,  accompanied  with  the  suggestion  that  this 
animal  may  have  represented   the  merman  and  nier- 


:H 


IK  ■   ' 


THE      \V  A  L  U  U  S. 


409 


maid.  The  square,  hUK'ked-oiit  head  ^vlliL•ll  1  liave 
noticed,  effectually  destroys  the  reseiid)l;uice  to  hu- 
manity Avlien  distinit.  inid  the  colossal  si/e  does  the 
same  when  near.  Some  of  the  seals  deserve  (he  dis- 
tinction much  more:  the  size  of  the  head,  the  regularity 
of  the  fjicial  oval,  the  droo[) 
of  the  shoulders,  even  tlie 
movements  of  this  animal, 
whether  singly  or  in  group, 
remind  you  strikingly  of 
man. 

The  party  which  jMorton 
attended  upon  their  walrus- 
hunt  had  three  sledtres.  One 
was  to  be  taken  to  a  cache 
in  the  neigh))orliood;  tlio 
other  two  dragged  at  a  cpiick 
run  toward  the  open  water, 
about  ten  miles  off  to  tlie 
southwest.  They  l^ad  but 
nine  dogs  to  these  two 
sledges,  one  man  only  ri(hng, 
i\u)  others  running  by  turns. 
As  they  nearcd  the  new  ice, 
and  where  the  black  wastes 
of  mingled  cloud  and  water 
betokened  the  open  sea,  they 

would  from  time  to  time  remove  their  hoods  and  listen 
intently  for  the  animal's  voice. 

After  a  while  Myouk  became  convinced,  from  signs 


ESQUIMAUX      W  HI  P, 
WOOD      A  S  n      I.  O  'J  E       P  I  E  C  E  0. 


1.^ 


410 


MOU  TON    S      Jor  K  XK  Y, 


or  sounds,  or  hotli, — lor  they  were  iiiiippreciable  by 
Morton,  —that  the  walrus  were  waiting  for  him  in  a 
small  space  of  recently-open  water  that  was  glazed  over 
with  a  few  days'  growth  of  ice;  and,  moving  gently 
on,  they  soon  heard  the  characteristic  bellow  of  a  bull 
awuk.  The  walrus,  like  some  of  the  higher  order  of 
beings  to  which  he  has  been  com})are(l,  is  fond  of  his 
own  music,  and  will  lie  for  hours  listening  to  himself 
His  vocalization  is  something  between  the  mooing  of  a 


I  l*'.'l! 


I'    ii 


Hi 


1  '.* 

t 

f 


1; 


WATCHING   AT   THE   WALRUS- HOLE. 


COW  and  the  deepest  baying  of  a  mastifi":  very  round 
and  full,  with  its  barks  or  detached  notes  repeated 
rather  quickly  seven  to  nine  times  in  succession. 

The  party  now  formed  in  single  file,  following  in 
each  other's  steps;  and,  guided  by  an  admirable  know- 
ledge of  ice-topography,  wound  behind  hummocks  and 
ridges  in  a  serpentine  approach  toward  a  group  of 
pond-like  discolorations,  recently-frozen  ice-spots,  but 
surrounded  by  firmer  and  older  ice. 

When  within  half  a  mile  of  these,  the  line  broke, 
and  each  man  crawled  toward  a  separate  pool;  Morton 


preei{i])le  by 

Dv  hiiu  in  !»- 
:i  glir/ed  over 
jving  {•■ently 
low  of  II  bull 
;her  onler  ol' 
s  fond  of  bi:^ 
(T  to  bimself. 
;  mooing  of  a 


f:  very  round 
liotes  repeated 
icession. 
I,  following  in 
mirable  know- 
ummocks  and 
■d  a  group  of 
ice-spots,  but 

he  line  broke, 
pool;  Morton 


w  A  L  lU'  s-ii  r  X  T, 


111 


on  his  hands  and  knees  followini:"  Myouk.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  wah'us  were  in  sight.  They  were  live  in 
nund)er,  rising  at  intervals  through  the  ice  in  a  Ixxly. 
and  breaking  it  up  with  an  ex[)lo.sive  pufV  tliat  might 
have  been  heard  for  miles.  Two  large  grim-looking 
nude.s  were  conspicuous  as  the  leaders  of  the  group. 


'^*<»W*^ 


MYOUK 


Now^  for  the  marvel  of  the-  craft.  When  the  widrus 
is  above  water,  the  hunter  is  flat  and  motionles.s ;  as  he 
begins  to  sink,  alert  and  ready  for  a  spring.  The  ani- 
mal's head  is  hardly  below  the  water-line  before  every 
man  is  in  a  rapid  run;  and  again,  as  if  by  instinct, 
before  the  beast  returns,  all  are  moti(jnless  behind  pro- 
tecting knolls  of  ice.     They  seem  to  know  beforehand 


I 


;..| 


P    :l 


.      ', 


wmi' 


:J 


i:  i' 


IV2 


M  ()  I{  TON    S     JOUR  X  i:  Y. 


not  only  tlic  tiiiH'  he  will  he  absent,  but  the  wvy  spot 
at  which  he  will  i'ea[)[)ear.  In  this  way,  liidinii'  and 
advancini;'  hy  turns,  Myouk,  with  Morton  at  his  heels, 
has  reaehed  a  plate  oi'  thin  iee,  hardly  strong  enou;ih 
to  1)ear  them,  at  the  very  brink  of  tiie  Avater-[)ool  the 
walrus  are  eurvettin<i'  in. 


WALRUS-HARPOON. 


II  A  R  PO  0  N-H  E  A  D. 


Myouk,  till  now  phlegmatic,  seems  to  waken  with 
excitement.  Ilis  coil  of  walrus-hide,  a  well-trimmed 
line  of  many  fathoms'  length,  is  lying  at  his  side.  He 
fixes  one  end  of  it  in  an  iron  barb,  and  fastens  this 
loosely  by  a  socket  upon  a  shaft  of  unicorn's  horn :  the 
other  end  is  already  looped,  or,  as  sailors  would  say, 


• 


I  i 


II J     U 


TJir;     f(»NTK.ST. 


•il:; 


'•(loubkHl  in  u  higlit."  It  is  the  uoi'k  of  a  moment. 
Ho  has  grasped  the  harpoon:  the  water  is  in  mo- 
tion. Pnftinu,'  with  pent-np  respiration,  the  wtdrns  is 
within  a  eonph'  of  fathoms,  eh)se  l)ef()re  him.  jMyouk 
rises  slowly;  his  right  arm  thrown  l>ack,  the  left  Hat 
at  his  side.  The  walrus  looks  aljout  him.  shaking'  the 
water  from  his  crest:  Myouk  throws  up  his  left  arm; 


N  0  Z  <:  L  E      OF      H  A  :^  f  0  0  N    H  E  A  D. 


M  A  rt  P  0  0  N  ■  H  E   »  Ti .      F  f)  r  c . 


and  the  animal,  rising  breast-high,  fixes  one  look  before 
he  plunges.  It  has  cost  him  all  that  curiosity  can 
cost:  the  harpoon  is  buried  under  his  left  flipper. 

Though  the  awuk  is  down  in  a  moment,  Myouk  is 
running  at  desperate  speed  from  the  scene  of  his  vic- 
tory, paying  ofl'  his  coil  freely,  but  clutching  the  end 
by  its  loop.  He  seizes  as  he  runs  a  small  stick  of 
bone,    rudely   pointed    with    iron,    and    by   a    sudden 


■  ...I, 


Ir  ■{ 


■J  i 


■^  I 


lij 


H 


l\ 

0 

1  'i !. 

'■)i        : 

i  '■  1, 

\',   . 

■  I 

;     i 

414 


M  (» i;  T(»  \   s     .1  <)  (■  i;  X  K  V. 


iiiovL'iiR'nt  drives  it  into  tlie  ice:  to  this  lie  secures 
liis  line,  pressing  it  down  close  to  the  ice-suriiice  with 
his  feet. 

Now  comes  the  struggle.  The  hole  is  dushed  in  mad 
connnotion  with  the  struggles  of  the  wounded  heast; 
the  line  is  drawn  tight  at  one  moment,  the  next  re- 
laxed: the  hunter  has  not  left  his  station.  There  is  a 
crash  of  the  ice;  and  rearing  up  through  it  arc  two 
walruses,  not  many  yards  from  where  he  stands.  One 
of  them,  the  male,  is  excited  and  seemingly  terrified: 
the  other,  the  female,  collected  and  vengeful.  Down 
they  go  again,  after  one  grim  survey  of  the  field;  and 
on  the  instant  Myouk  has  changed  his  position,  carry- 
ing his  coil  with  him  and  fixing  it  anew. 

He  has  hardly  fixed  it  before  the  pair  have  again 
risen,  breaking  up  an  area  of  ten  feet  diameter  about 
the  very  spot  he  left.  As  they  sink  once  more  he 
again  changes  his  place.  And  so  the  conflict  goes  on 
between  addR}ss  and  force,  till  the  victim,  half  ex- 
hausted, receives  a  second  wound,  and  is  played  like  a 
trout  by  the  angler's  reel. 

The  instinct  of  attack  which  characterizes  the  walrus 
is  interesting  to  the  naturalist,  as  it  is  characteristic 
also  of  the  land  animals,  the  pachyderms,  with  which 
he  is  classed.  When  wounded,  he  rises  high  out  of  the 
water,  plunges  heavily  against  the  ice,  and  strives  to 
raise  himself  with  his  fore-flippers  upon  its  surface. 
As  it  breaks  under  his  weight,  his  countenance  assumes 
a  still  more  vindictive  expression,  his  bark  changes  to 


ill 


^r> 


he  secures 
urfiice  with 

^hed  hi  inud 
iided  beast; 
he  next  iv- 
Thcre  is  a 
L  it  are  two 
taiids.     One 
rly  terrified: 
eful.     Down 
le  field;  and 
•sition,  earry- 

r  have  again 
ameter  about 
nee  more  he 
nlUct  goes  on 
im,  half  ex- 
played  like  a 

[,es  the  walrus 
I  characteristic 
L  with  which 
io-h  out  of  the 
Liid  strives  to 
a  its  surface, 
lance  assumes 
^k  changes  to 


II  A  HITS     or     UALUUS. 


41.3 


a  roar,  and  tlie  foam  pours  out  from  his  jaws  (ill  it 
froths  his  beard. 

Even  wlu'n  not  excited,  lie  manages  his  tusks 
bravely.  They  are  so  strong  that  ho  uses  them  to 
grapple  the  rocks  with,  and  climbs  steeps  of  ice  and 
land  which  would  be  inaccessible  to  him  without  their 
aid.  He  ascends  in  this  way  rockv  islands  that  are 
sixty  and  a  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea; 
and  I  have  myself  seen  him  in  tliese  elevated  positions 
basking  with  his  young  in  the  cool  sunshine  of  August 
and  September. 

lie  can  strike  a  fearful  blow ;  but  i)refers  charging 
with  his  tusks  in  a  soldierly  manner.  I  do  not  doubt 
the  old  stories  of  the  Spitzbergen  fisheries  and  Cherie 
Island,  where  the  walrus  put  to  flight  the  crowds  of 
European  boats.  Awuk  is  the  lion  of  the  Danish 
Esquimaux,  and  they  always  speak  of  him  with  the 
highest  respect. 

I  have  heard  of  oomiaks  being  detained  for  days  at 
a  time  at  the  crossings  of  straits  and  passages  wdiich  he 
infested.  Governor  Flaischer  told  me  that,  in  1830,  a 
brown  walrus,  which,  according  to  the  Esquimaux,  is 
the  fiercest,  after  being  lanced  and  maimed  near  Uper- 
navik,  routed  his  numerous  assailants,  and  drove  them 
in  fear  to  seek  for  help  from  the  settlement.  His 
movement  ^  were  so  violent  as  to  jerk  out  the  harpoons 
that  were  stuck  into  him.  The  governor  slew^  him 
with  great  difficulty  after  several  rifle-shots  and  lance- 
wounds  from  his  whaleboat. 

On  another  occasion,  a  young  and  adventurous  limit 


,  { 


i  li'i! 


r  ^  ?i 


no 


M  ()  I!  T  <»  N    S      J  (»  (•  I!  X  !•:  V 


ltlmi,L''('(l  liis  iiiik'^cit  into  si  hrowii  walrus;  hut,  stai'tlcd 
l)y  tlic  siivii^c  (li'nicaiior  of  the  hcast,  ciillcd  I'oi"  IicIm 
before  usiiiu'  tlie  lance.  Tlie  oldei"  men  in  vain  can- 
tione*!  liini  to  desist.  "  It  is  a  hrown  walrus,"  said 
thev  :  ^'Aiii'(jk-Kn'u}h'r  "  Hold  back  !"     FindiuLi' the  euu- 


LA'.CE    'll.«D,     filOV     MARiHAL,     ilAY. 


LANrEKEAD,     ri_V     Sj'-l'lY     GO'I*.;. 


.1 


tioii  disreii'anled.  his  only  ))rother  rowed  forward  and 
plunged  the  second  harpoon.  Almost  in  an  instant  the 
animal  charged  upon  the  kayacker,  ri[)ping  him  up,  as 
the  description  went,  after  the   fashion  of  his  sylvan 


-&r7*5 


E5QUiVI*'J<       LANCE-HEAD,      "AKBAH, 


brother,  the  wild  boar.  The  story  was  told  to  me  with 
much  animation ;  how  the  jjrother  remaining  rescued 
the  corpse  of  the  brother  dead ;  and  how,  as  they 
hauled  it  up  on  the  ice-floes,  the  ferocious  beast  plunged 


T  II  i:      V  I  CTO  U  V. 


•11 


>ut,  startU'd 
I'd  for  lu'l;» 
11  viiiu  call- 
alms,"  isaid 
liiiLi'  tlu.'  can- 


lorward  and 

11  instant  the 

;  him  up,  as 

f  his  sylvan 


'i^ 


Id  to  me  with 
ining  rescued 
low,   as  they 
jeast  plunged 


in  ioaniiii;;-  circles,  seeking  IVcsli  \ictiiiis  in  that  [)art  of 
the  sea  which  was  discolored  hy  his  I)lood, 

Some  idea  may  he  formecl  of  (he  I'erocity  of  the  wal- 
rus, from  the  I'act  that  the  l)attle  wiiich  Morton  wit- 
nessed, not  without  sharing  some  of  its  danger,  lasti'd 
four  hours;  during  which  the  animal  rushed  con- 
tinually at  the  Ks(pnm;ui\  as  they  ap[)roached,  tearing 
oir  great  tahles  of  ice  with  his  tusks,  and  showing  no 
indications  of  feiU'  wdnitever.  lie  receive(l  ui)ward 
of  seventy  hnux'-wounds, — Morton  counted  over  sixty; 
and  even  then  he  remained  hooked  hy  his  tusks  to 
the  margin  of  the  ice,  uiiahle  or  unwilling  to  retii'c. 
Ilis  iemale  fought  in  the  same  manner,  hut  lied  on 
receiving  a  lanee-wound. 

The  Esquimaux  seemed  to  he  i'ully  aware  of  the 
danger  of  venturing  too  near;  for  at  the  first  onset 
of  the  walrus  they  jinn[)ed  l)ack  far  enough  to  he  clear 
of  the  hroken  ice.  Morton  desci'ibed  the  last  three 
hours  as  wearing,  on  both  sides,  the  aspect  of  an  un- 
broken and  seemingly  doubtful  combat. 

The  method  of  landing  the  beast  u[)oii  the  ice,  too, 
showed  a  great  deal  of  clever  contrivance.  They  made 
two  pair  of  incisions  in  the  neck,  where  the  hide  is  very 
thick,  about  six  inches  apart  and  parallel  to  each  other, 
so  as  to  form  a  couple  of  bands.  A  line  of  cut  hide, 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  was  passed 
under  one  of  these  bands  and  carried  up  on  the  i(;e  to  a 
firm  stick  w^U  secured  in  the  lloe,  where  it  wx'nt  through 
a  loop,  and  was  then  taken  back  to  the  animal,  made 
to  pass  under  the  second  band,   and    led  oiY  to    the 

Vol.  I.— 27 


K 


(*:! 


418 


MOUTOX    S     J or  KXK  Y 


i , 


Esquiinuux.  This  fornicd  a  sort  of  '•  (loiil)le  piirchast'," 
the  hluMjor  so  lubricating  the  cord  as  to  a(bnit  of  a 
free  inovenieiit.  By  this  contrivance  tlie  l)east,  weigli- 
ing  some  sev^en  liunclred  pounds,  was  hauled  up  and 
butchered  at  leisure. 

Tile  two  sledges  now  journeyed  homeward,  carrying 
the  more  valued  parts  of  their  prize.  The  intestines 
and  a  large  share  of  the  carcass  were  buried  up  in  the 
cavities  of  a  berg:  LucuUus  himself  could  not  have 
dreamed  of  a  grander  icehouse. 

As   they  doubled  the  little   island  which  stood  in 


Vi 


***^..^ 


SOUTHERN     KNIFE,        AWAYU." 


FROM    GRAVE,    BUSHNALL    ISLAND. 


front  of  their  settlement,  the  w^omen  ran  down  the 
rocks  to  meet  them.  A  long  hail  carried  the  good 
news ;  and,  as  the  party  alighted  on  the  beach,  knives 
were  ([uickly  at  work,  the  allotment  of  the  meat  being 
determined  by  well-understood  hunter  laws.  The 
Esquimaux,  however  gluttonously  they  may  eat,  evi- 
dently bear  hunger  -with  as  little  difficulty  as  excess. 
None  of  the  morning  party  ha  1  breakfasted ;  yet  it 
was  after  ten  o'clock  at  niglit  before  they  sat  down 
to  dinner.  "  Sat  down  to  dinner !"  This  is  the  only 
expression  of  our  own  gastrology  which  is  a})[)lica]jle 
to  an  Es(punuiux  feast.     They  truly  sit  down,  man, 


piircliiiso," 
ulmit  of  1^ 
ast,  wcidi- 
Lod  up  111  id 

•a,  cavvyiiig 
G  intestines 
.(1  up  in  the 
d  not  Uave 

cli  stood  in 


^**«4iSi, 


JUSHNALL    ISLAND. 


ui  down  llic 
led   the   good 
)eacli,  knives 
e  meat  being 
laws.      The 
lay  eat,  cvi- 
ty  as  excess, 
isted;   yet  it 
y  sat  down 
s  is  the  only 
is  applieable 
down,  man, 


JUISILKE  —  A     SIPAK. 


410 


woman,  and  (.'hild,  kiiit'e  in  liand,  s(piatt'ni^'  cross-legLrvd 
around  a  lorinidahlo  joint, — say  forty  pounds. — and, 
without  waiting  lor  tlio  tardy  cocti'"!  of  the  lamp. 
falliuL!;  to  like  colleiic  coininoncrs  aft*  r  uraco.  I  liavo 
scon  many  such  ii'cds.  ilans's  account,  however,  of 
the  glutton-festival  at  Etah  is  too  characteristic  to  he 
omitted. 

'•Why,  Cappen  Ken,  sir,  even  the  children  ate  all 
night: — you  know  the  little  two-year-old  that  Awiu 
carried  in  her  hood — (he  oue  that  hit  >()ii,  when  xou 
tickled  it? — yes.  Well,  (Jap[)en  Ken,  sir.  that  hahy  cut 
lor  herself,  with  a  knilc  nuule  out  of  an  iron  hoo[)  and 
so  heavy  that  it  could  barely  lift  it,  and  cut  and  ate, 
and  ate  and  cut,  as  long  as  1  looked  at  it." 

"Well,  JIans,  try  now  and  think;  for  [  want  an  ac- 
curate answer:  how  nuich  as  to  weight  or  ([uantity 
would  you  say  that  child  ate?"  Ihins  is  an  exact  and 
truthful  nuin :  he  pondered  a  little  and  said  that  he 
could  not  answer  my  fpiestion.  "Ihit  I  know  this,  sir, 
that  it  ate  usipdJS' — the  Es(piinuiux  name  for  the  luui[) 
which  is  cut  off  close  to  the  lips — '-as  large  as  its  own 
head;  and  three  hours  afterward,  when  I  went  to  hetl. 
it  was  cutting  off  another  lump  and  eating  still." — A 
sipak,  like  the  Dutch  governor's  foot,  is,  howevei*,  a 
varvim-"  unit  of  weight. 


/' 


I     1 


i     I 


\      I 


:t> 


i!  i 


I     ,' 


i  ! 


If  ['' 


!i      I 


-! 


mv 


:^'^ 


CHAPTER   XXXI. 

AN    AURORA — WOOD-CUTTING — i'UKL    ESTIMATE  —  THE    STOVE-l'IPES 

THE    ARCTJC    FIRMAMENT — ESQUIMAUX    ASTRONOMY IIEATINO 

APPARATUS  —  METEORIC    SHOWER  —  A    BEAR — HASTY    RETRl   VT  — 

THE    CABIN     BY     NIOMT SICKNESS     INCREASIN(J CUTTING     INTO 

THE    BRIG THE    NIGHT-WATCH. 

"October  24,  Tuesday. — We  are  at  work  tliat  makes 
us  realize  liow  sliort-liiuided  Ave  are.  The  brig  was 
lifted  for  the  third  time  to  day,  with  douhle  chains 
passed  under  her  at  low  tide,  both  astern  and  amid- 
ships. Her  bows  were  already  r.aised  three  feet  above 
the  water,  and  nothing  seemed  wanting  to  our  complete.' 
success,  when  at  the  critical  moment  one  of  the  after- 
shores  parted,  and  she  fell  o^er  about  five  streaks  to 
starl)()ard.  The  slings  were  hove  to  by  the  cral),  and 
luckily  held  her  from  going  fartner,  so  that  she  now 
stands  about  three  feet  above  her  flotation-line,  drawing 
four  feet  forward,  but  four  and  >  half  aft.  She  has 
righted  a  little  with  the  return  of  tide,  and  now  awaits 
the  IVeezinsi'-in  of  her  winter  cradle.  She  is  well  out 
of  water;   and,  if  the  chains  only  hold,  we  shall  have 

420 


K  STOVE-nrKS 
jMY — IIKATIM! 
TY  IIETIU  VT— 
-CUTTINO     INTO 


K  that  makes 
he  Img  was 
oiihle  chains 
n  and  amiil- 
!C  feet  above 
our  comph'tf^ 
(jf  the  after- 
ve  streaks  to 
he  eval),  and 
Kit  she  now 
line,  drawing 
ft.     She  has 
d  now  awaits 
0  is  well  out 
■V  shall  have 


AX      A  UK  OH  A. 


421 


the  spectacle  of  a  brig,  high  and  dry,  spending  an 
Arctic  winter  over  an  Arctic  ice-bed. 

"We  sliall  be  engage<l  now  at  the  hold  and  with  the 
liousing  on  d^ck.  From  our  bxlge-rooni  to  the  forward 
timbers  every  thing  is  clear  already.  AVe  have  moved 
the  carpenter's  bench  into  our  little  dormitorium: 
everywhere  else  it  is  too  cold  for  handling  tools. 

'•Op. M. — A  true  and  unbroken  auroral  arch:  the  first 
we  have  seen  in  Smith's  Sound.     It  was  colorless,  but 


THE      BRIG      CRADLED. 


extremely  bright.  Tliere  was  no  pendant  from  the 
lower  curve  of  the  arc;  but  from  its  outer,  an  active 
wavy  movement,  dissipating  itself  into  barely-percepti- 
ble cirrhus,  w\as  brol^en  here  and  tliere  by  rays  nearly 
perpendicular,  with  a  slight  inclination  to  the  east. 
The  atmosphere  w\'is  beautifull}^  clear. 

"Octol)er  26,  Thursday. — The  thermometer  at  34° 
below  7.ero,  but  fortunately  no  wind  blowing.  \ye  go 
on  with  the  outrdoor  work.  The  gangway  of  ice  is 
finished,  and  we  have  passed  wooden  steam-tubes 
through  the  deck-house  to  carry  off  the  vapors  of  our 


I     ; 


■  I 


■ .  :i 


mi 

mi 


'n:l 


M 


422 


■\\'()()I)-C  UTTING. 


cooking-stove  uiid  the  lighter  iinpiirities  of  the  crowded 
cabin. 

••We  l)uni  Ijut  seventy  pounds  of  fuel  a  diiy,  most  of 
it  in  llie  liuUey;  the  fire  being  idlowed  to  go  out  be- 
tween meals.  We  go  uithout  lire  altogether  for  ibur 
hours  of  the  nidit;  vet  such  is  the  exeelK'Uce  of  our 
moss  walls,  and  the  air-proof  of  ^)ur  tossut,  that  the 
thermometer  in-doors  never  indicates  less  than  4-j° 
above  zero,  with  the  outside  air  at  30°  below.  AVhen 
our  housing  is  ari'anged  and  the  main  hatch  secured 
^vith  a  proper  weather-tight  screen  of  canvas,  we  shall 
])e  a])le,  1  lioi)e,  to  meet  the  extreme  cold  of  February 
and  March  Avithout  fear. 

"Darkness  is  the  worst  enemy  wc  have  to  face;  but 
we  will  strive  against  the  scurvy  in  spite  of  him,  till 
the  light  days  of  sun  and  vegetation.  The  spring  hunt 
will  open  in  ]\Iarch,  though  it  will  avail  us  very  little 
till  late  in  April. 

'•Wilson  and  Brooks  are  my  principal  subjects  of 
anxiety;  for,  although  Morton  and  Hans  are  on  their 
backs,  making  four  of  our  ten,  I  can  see  strength  of 
system  in  their  cheerfulness  of  heart.  The  best  pro- 
phylactic is  a  hoi)eful,  sanguine  temperament;  the  best 
cure,  moral  resistance,  that  spirit  of  combat  against 
every  trial  which  is  alone  true  bravery. 

''October  27,  Friday. — The  work  is  going  on:  we 
are  ripping  off  the  extra  phudving  of  our  deck  for  fuel 
during  the  winter.  The  cold  increases  fast,  verging 
now  upon  40°  b'dow  zero;  and  in  spite  of  all  my  ellbrts 
we  will  have  to  burn  lai'gely  into  the  brig.     I  prepared 


j 

4 

■       i 

i 

tit^A. 

:lie  crowded 

lay,  most  of 
I  go  out  Ijc- 
licr  for  lour 
K'lice  of  our 
lit,  that  the 
5S  tluiu  45° 
iow.  AVheii 
itch  .secured 
,^as,  we  shall 
of  February 

to  face;  but 
i  of  him,  till 
I  spring  hunt 
as  very  little 

subjects  of 

are  on  their 

strength  of 

ic  best  pro- 

■nt;  the  best 

ibat   against 


jing  on :  we 
deck  for  fuel 
fast,  verging 
ill  my  cflbrts 
I  prepared 


F  U  i:  L     ESTIMATE. 


423 


for  this  two  months  ago,  and  satisfied  myself,  after  a 
consultation  with  the  carpenter,  that  we  may  cut  away 
some  seven  or  eight  tons  of  fuel  without  absolutely 
destroying  her  sea-worthiness.  Ohlsen's  report  marked 
out  the  order  in  which  her  timbers  should  be  appro- 
priated to  uses  of  necessity : — 1,  The  monkey-rail ;  2, 
the  bulwarks ;  3,  the  upper  ceiling  of  the  deck ;  4,  eight 
extra  cross-beams;  5,  the  flooring  and  remaining  wood- 
work of  the  forecastle ;  0,  the  square  girders  of  the 
forepeak  ;  7,  the  main  topsail-yard  and  topmast ;  8,  the 
outside  treljliuii:  or  oak  sheathing'. 

"We  had  then  but  thirty  buckets  of  coal  remaining, 
and  had  already  burnt  up  the  bulkheads.  Since  then 
we  have  made  some  additional  inroads  on  our  stock ; 
but,  unless  there  is  an  error  in  the  estimate,  we  can  go 
on  at  the  rate  of  seventy  pounds  a  day.  Close  house- 
keeping this;  but  we  cannot  do  better.  "Wo  must 
remodel  our  heating-arrangements.  The  scurvy  exacts 
a  comtbrtable  temperature  and  a  drying  one.  Our 
mean  thus  far  has  been  47°, — decidedly  too  low;  and 
by  the  clogging  of  our  worn-out  pipe  it  is  now  re- 
duced to  42°. 

"The  ice-belt,  sorry  chronicler  of  winter  progress, 
has  begun  to  widen  with  the  rise  and  Itill  of  the 
sludgy  w^ater. 

"October  31,  Tuesday. — We  have  had  a  scene  on 
board.  We  play  many  parts  on  this  Arctic  stage  of 
ours,  and  can  hardly  be  expected  to  be  at  home  in  all 
of  them. 

"To-day  was  appropriated  to  the  reformation  of  the 


I    -/ 


>  I 


i 

i 

: 

\  I 


424 


TiiK    sTo  V  i:-i'iri:s. 


l!iir 


!P'i 


:■■  P 


i'iti 


\\i'-U 


it  1 


stovt's,  Mild  tlit'i'u  was  deiiiaud,  of  coiirso,  for  all  our 
iiigviiuity  both  us  tinkers  iind  cirmiiicy-swoeps.  Of  iiiy 
company  of  nine,  Hans  had  the  good  luck  to  be  out  on 
the  hunt,  and  IJrooks,  Morton,  Wilson,  and  Goodl'ellow 
were  scurvy-ridden  in  their  buidvs.  The  other  lour 
and  the  connnauding  oflicer  nuide  up  tlie  detail  of 
duly.  First,  we  were  to  give  the  smoke-tubes  of  the 
stove  a  thorough  cleansing,  the  first  they  have  had 
for  now  seventeen  months;  next,  to  reduce  our  eflete 
snow-melter  to  its  elements  of  imperfect  pipes  and 
pans;  and,  last,  to  cv.nibine  the  practicable  renuiins 
of  the  two  into  one  eflicient  system  for  warming  and 
nudting. 

"Of  these,  the  first  has  been  executed  most  gal- 
lantly. 'Glory  enough  for  one  day!'  The  work  with 
the  scrapers  on  the  heated  pipes — for  the  accumula- 
tion inside  of  them  was  as  hard  as  the  iron  itself  till 
we  melted  it  down — was  dccidedl}^  unpleasant  to  our 
gentle  senses;  and  we  were  glad  when  it  had  advanced 
fiir  enough  to  authorize  a  resort  to  the  good  old- 
fashioned  countr}'  custom  of  firing.  But  we  had  not 
calculated  the  quantity  of  the  gases,  combustible  and 
incondjustible,  which  this  process  was  to  evolve,  watli 
duly  scientific  reference  to  the  size  of  their  outlet.  In 
a  word,  they  were  smothering  us,  and,  in  a  fit  of  despe- 
ration, we  threw  open  our  apartment  to  the  atmosphere 
outside.  This  made  sh.^^'t  work  of  the  smoky  flocculi ; 
the  dormitor}-  decked  itself  on  the  instant  with  a  frosty 
forest  of  feathers,  and  it  now  rejoices  in  a  drapery  as 
gray  as  a  cygnet's  breast. 


-j£as£ 


THE     A  U  C  T  I  C      V  I  U  M  A  M  E  N  T. 


425 


ir  all  our 
;.  Of  my 
be  out  on 
iiMMUoUow 
)tlier  four 

detail  of 
ben  of  the 
have   had 

our  efVete 
pipes  and 
[o  remains 
rming  and 

most   gal- 
Avork  ^vith 
accumula- 
11  itself  till 
ant  to  our 
1  advanced 
good    old- 
0  had  not 
istible  and 
olve,  with 
utlet.     In 
it  of  despe- 
^atmosphere 
vy  flocculi ; 
ith  a  frosty 
drapery  as 


"It  was  cold  work  reorganizing  the  stove  Or  llic 
nonce;  hut  we  have  got  it  going  again,  as  ri'd  a^  a 
cherry,  and  my  well-worn  dog-skin  suit  is  (hy  ing  before 
it.  The  hhickened  water  is  just  beginning  to  drip, 
drip,  th'op,  from  the  walls  iiud  ceiling,  and  the  bed- 
clothes and  the  table  on  which  I  write." 

My  narrative  has  reached  a  period  at  which  every 
thing  like  progress  was  suspended.  The  increasing 
cold  and  brightening  stars,  the  labors  and  anxieties 
and  sickness  that  pressed  upon  us, — these  almost  en- 
gross the  pages  of  my  journal.  Now  and  then  I  find 
some  marvel  of  Petersen's  about  the  fox's  dexterit\'  as 
a  hunter;  and  Hans  tells  me  of  domestic  life  in  South 
Greenland,  or  of  a  seal-hunt  and  a  wrecked  kayack;  or 
perhaps  McGary  repeats  his  thrice-told  tale  of  huiiu)r; 
but  the  night  has  closed  down  upon  us,  and  we  are 
hibernating  through  it. 

Yet  some  of  these  were  topics  of  interest.  The 
intense  Ijeauty  of  the  Arctic  firmament  can  hardly  be 
imagined.  It  looked  close  above  our  heads,  with  its 
stars  magnified  in  glory  and  the  very  planets  twinkling 
so  much  as  to  bafile  the  observations  of  our  astronomer. 
I  am  afraid  to  speak  of  some  of  these  night-scenes.  I 
have  trodden  the  deck  and  the  floes,  when  the  life  of 
earth  seemed  suspended,  its  movements,  its  sounds,  its 
coloring,  its  companionships;  and  as  I  looked  on  the 
radiant  hemisphere,  circling  above  me  as  if  rendering 
worship  to  the  unseen  Centre  of  light,  I  have  ejacu- 
lated in  humility  of  spirit,  ''Lord,  what  is  man  that 


I   ) 


IV  I 


U  h 


■f't' 


■%  !■ 


If 


If 

ij 

/i  1 

1 

''J  ■!• 

1         ; 

II 

m 

i  i 

420 


E  S  (i  U  I  M  A  U  X     AS  T  K  O  N  ( )  M  Y. 


thou  Mrt  luiiidfiil  of  liim?"  And  tliun  1  have  thought 
of  tlio  kindly  workl  we  had  left,  with  its  revolving  sun- 
shine and  sliadow,  and  the  other  stars  that  ghuld<'n  it 
in  llieir  clianges,  and  the  hearts  tliat  Avarnied  to  us 
there;  till  I  lost  myself  in  memories  of  those  who  are 
not; — and  they  bore  mc  back  to  the  stars  again. 

The  Ks(|uimaux,  like  other  nomads,  are  careful 
observers  of  the  heavenly  bodies.  An  illustration  of 
the  eonfidenee  with  which  thev  avail  themselves  of 
this  knowledge  occurred  while  Petersen's  party  were 
at  Tessieusak.  I  coi)y  it  from  my  journal  of  Novem- 
ber 6. 

'•A  number  of  Esquimaux  sought  sleeping-quarters 
in  the  hut,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  the  earlier  visit- 
ors. The  night  was  clear;  and  Petersen,  anxious  to 
hasten  theiv  depnrture,  pointed  to  the  horizon,  saying 
it  would  socm  be  daj^ght.  '  No,'  said  the  savage ;  'when 
that  star  there  gets  round  to  that  point,'  indicating  the 
quarter  of  the  heavens,  "and  is  no  higher  than  this  star,' 
naming  it,  'will  be  the  time  to  harness  up  my  dogs.' 
Petersen  was  astounded;  but  he  went  out  the  next 
morning  and  verified  the  sidereal  fact. 

"I  have  been  shooting  a  hare  to-day  up  the  ravine 
pointed  out  by  Ootuniali.  It  has  l)een  quite  a  pleasant 
incident.  I  can  hardly  say  how  valua])le  the  advice 
of  our  Esquimaux  friends  has  l)een  to  us  upon  our 
hunts.  This  desert  homestead  of  theirs  is  as  thoroughly 
travelled  over  as  a  sheepwalk.  Every  movement  of 
the  ice  or  wind  or  season  is  noted;  and  they  predict 
its  inlluence  upon  the  course  of  the  birds  of  passage 


I 


t 


re  tliouglit 

o;1jv(1<1<'H  it 

I'lued  to  us 
)SL>  ^vllo  are 


i!;jiin. 


lire  cnretul 
ustnition  of 
omselves  of 
party  ^ve^e 
I  of  Noveni- 

plng-quarters 
i  earlier  visit- 
1,  anxious  to 


jrrzou,  sa} 


mg 


vaee;  'wlien 
iidioatiug  the 
Ihan  this  star,' 
up  my  tlogs.' 
)ut   the   next 


up  the  ravine 
lite  a  x)leasant 
l>le  the  advice 
us  upon  our 
as  thoroughly 
movement  of 
ll  they  predict 
rds  of  passage 


II E  A  T I  X  r,    A  r  r  a  t:  a  t  r  s. 


427 


Avith  tlie  same  sagacity  that  has  taught  them  the  ha])its 
of  the  resident  aiiiinals. 

''They  foretohl  to  me  the  exact  range  of  the  water 
off  Cape  Alexander  during  Septemher,  October,  No- 
vember and  Decend)er,  and  anticipated  the  excessive 
fall  of  snow  which  has  taken  place  this  winti'r,  by 
reference  to  this  mysterious  water. 

'"In  tha  darkest  weather  of  Octoljer,  when  every 
thing  around  is  apparently  c  ngealed  and  solid,  they 
discover  water  hy  means  as  inscrutable  as  the  divining- 
rod.  I  was  once  journeying  to  Anoatok,  and  completely 
enveloped  in  darkness  among  the  rolled-ice  off  Godsend 
Island.  My  dogs  Avere  suflering  for  water.  September 
was  half  gone,  and  the  water-streams  1)oth  on  shore 
and  on  the  berfts  had  been  solid  for  nearlv  a  fortniiiht. 
Myouk,  my  companion,  began  clind)ing  the  dune-like 
sunnnits  of  the  ice-hills,  tapping  with  his  ice-pole  and 
occasionally  applying  his  ear  to  parts  of  the  surface. 
lie  did  so  to  three  hills  without  any  I'esult,  but  at  the 
fourth  he  called  out,  'Water!'  I  examined  the  spot  by 
hand  and  tongue,  for  it  was  too  dark  to  see;  but  I  could 
detect  no  licpiid.  Lying  down  and  listening,  I  first 
perceiv<.'d  the  metallic  tinkle  of  a  rivulet.  A  few 
minutes'  digging  brought  us  down  to  a  scanty  infil- 
tratijn  of  drinkable  water. 

'^'November  8,  Wednesday. — Still  tinkering  at  our 
stove  and  ice-melter;  at  last  successful.  Old  iron  pipes, 
and  tin  kettles,  and  all  the  refuse  kitchen-ware  of  the 
brig  figure  now  in  picturescpie  association  and  rejoice 
in  the  title  of  our  heating-apparatus.     It   is   a  great 


I 


,  t 

1 1 


III: 


428 


^f  E  T  E  O  R  I  r     s  n  O  W  E  R. 


If  ;i 


V^'l'' 


/•  l> 


•■*r  11 


result.  AW  lijive  burnt  Cvoux  0  A.  >f.  to  10  p.m.  l)ut 
sevcuty-fivc  pounds,  and  will  ''ulsli  tlio  twenty-lour 
liours  with  fii'tcou  pounds  more  U  has  hocn  a  uiihl 
day,  the  thcruiouu'tcr  keeping  i-ouie  tenths  above  13° 
below  zero;  ])ut  then  we  have  inaintaiiu'd  a  tempera- 
ture inside  of  55°  above.  With  our  old  eontrivaiu'es  we 
eould  never  get  higher  than  47°,  and  that  without  any 
certainty,  though  it  cost  us  a  hundred  and  fiftv-fbur 
pounds  a  day.  A  vast  increase  of  condbrt,  and  still 
greater  saving  of  fuel.  This  last  is  a  most  important 
consideration.  Not  a  stick  of  wood  comes  below  with- 
out my  eyes  following  it  through  the  scales  to  the 
wood-stack.     I  weigh  it  to  the  very  ounce. 

"The  tide-register,  with  its  new  wheel-and-axle  ar- 
rangements, has  given  us  out-door  work  for  the  day. 
Inside,  after  rigging  the  stove,  we  have  been  l)usy 
chopping  Avood.  The  ice  is  already  three  feet  thick 
at  our  tide-hole. 

"November  15,  Wednesday. — The  last  forty-eight 
hours  should  have  given  us  the  annual  meteoric  shower. 
We  were  fully  2)repared  to  ol)oerve  it;  but  it  wou  d  not 
come  off.  It  would  have  been  a  godsend  variety.  In 
eight  hours  that  I  helped  to  w^atch,  from  nine  of  last 
night  until  five  this  morning,  there  were  only  fifty-one 
shooting  stars.  I  have  seen  as  many  between  the  same 
liours  in  December  and  February  of  last  winter. 

"Our  traps  have  been  empty  for  ten  days  past:  but 
for  the  pittance  of  excitement  wdiicli  the  visit  to  them 
gives,  we  might  as  well  be  without  them. 

"  The  men  are  getting  nervous  and  depressed.     Me- 


n  r.  M.  l>wt 
wenty-toiir 

I  aV)OVC  1 


QO 


11  tc'inpcTJi- 
rivaiu'os  wo 
,vitlu)ut  any 
id  fifty-Iour 
rt,  and  still 
;t  important 

bulow  ^vitll- 
cales  to  the 

-and-axlo  ar- 
for  the  day. 
.  lu'on  ])usy 
ce  feet  thick 

it   forty-eight 
coric  shower, 
it  wou  d  not 
variety.     In 
nine  of  last 
only  fifty-one 
een  the  same 
winter, 
ays  past:  but 
visit  to  them 

^pressed.     Mc- 


A    n  E  ah!  —  A    n  i:  a  k  ! 


-120 


Gary  paced  the  deck  all  last  Sunday  in  a  fit  of  lionie- 
sieknesH,  without  eatin<^  a  meal.  I  do  my  best  to  chcrr 
them;  Imt  it  is  hard  work  to  hide  one's  own  trials  for 
the  sake  of  others  who  havc^  not  as  man  v.  I  am  ••lad 
of  my  professional  drill  and  its  companion  influence 
over  the  sick  and  toil-worn.  T  could  not  get  along  at 
all  unless  I  condjined  the  olliccs  of  physician  and  com- 
mander.    You  cannot  })unish  sick  men. 

"November  20,  Monday. — I  was  out  I  ,-day  looking 
over  the  empty  traps  with  Hans,  and  when  aliout  two 
miles  oil'  tli«'  brig — luckily  not  more — I  heard  what 
I  thought  was  the  bellow  of  a  walrus  on  the  lloe-ice. 
'Hark  there,  Hans!'  The  words  were  scarcely  uttered 
before  we  had  a  second  roar,  altoirether  unmistakable. 
No  walrus  at  all :  a  bear,  a  bear!  We  had  jum[)ed  to 
the  ice-foot  already.  The  day  was  just  thirty  minutes 
past  the  hour  of  noon ;  but,  practised  as  we  all  are 
to  see  through  the  darkness,  it  was  impossible  to  nudve 
out  an  object  two  hundred  yards  oil'  What  to  do  ? — 
we  had  no  arms. 

"  We  were  both  of  us  afraid  to  run,  for  we  knew^  that 
the  sight  of  a  runner  would  be  the  signal  for  a  chase ; 
and,  besides,  it  went  to  our  hearts  to  lose  such  a  provi- 
dential accession  to  our  means  of  life.  A  second  roar, 
well  pitched  and  abundant  in  volume,  assured  us  that 
the  game  was  coming  nearer,  and  that  he  was  large 
and  of  no  doubt  corresponding  flavor.  'Run  for  the 
brig,  Hans,' — he  is  a  noble  runner. — 'and  I  will  play 
decoy.'  Off  went  Hans  like  a  deer.  Another  roar; 
but  he  Avas  already  out  of  sight. 


t  I 


li 


't'lii 


m 

11 

n 

mH 

'fl 

''■ , 

i 

111  ■ 

4:iO 


11  A  >  T  y     n  V.  T  1{  K  A  T. 


''I  iiiiiy  coiilrss  it  to  tlx'sc  well-worn  pM^cs :  tlnTO 
Wiis  soinc'tliiii;^"  not  iiltojivtlicr  jtlciisiint  in  tlic  silent 
coininuninfis  of  the  next  Irw  niinntcs;  hut  tiicy  were 
nilont  ones. 

*'  I  liiid  IK)  stimulus  to  lo([u;i('ity.  and  tlio  IxMir  Inid 
coji.simI  to  bo  conunujiicativc*.  Tlic  Hoc  was  al)out 
thrc'CMjuartc'i's  ol'a  tide;  some  ten  feet  it  may  he,  lower 
than  the  ice-i'oot  on  which  I  lav.  Tho  hear  was  of 
course  hclow  my  hori/on.  1  hc!j,aii  after  a  while  to 
thiidc  over  the  reality  of  what  I  had  heard,  and  to 
(louht  whether  it  mi;^ht  not  he  after  all  a  ereature  of 
the  hrain.  It  was  very  cold  on  that  ice-foot.  J  re- 
solved to  ci'awl  to  the  ed<^(!  of  it  and  [)cer  under  my 
hands  into  the  dark  shadow  of  the  hummock-riducs. 

"I  did  so.  One  look  :  iiothinji;.  A  second  :  no  hear 
after  all.  Atl'rd:  what  is  that  long  rounded  shade? 
Stained  ice?  Yes:  stained  ice.  The  stained  ice  gave 
a  gross  menagerie  roar,  and  ciiarged  on  the  instant  for 
my  position.  I  had  not  even  a  knife,  and  did  not  wait 
to  think  what  would  have  been  a})propriate  if  I  had 
had  one.  1  ran, — ran  as  I  never  expect  these  scurvy- 
stiHened  knees  to  run  aga  ■, — throwing  oil'  first  one 
mitten  and  then  its  lellow  to  avoid  pursuit.  I  gained 
the  brig,  and  the  bear  my  mittens.  I  got  back  one 
of  them  an  hour  afterwjird,  but  the  other  was  carried 
off  as  a  trophy  in  spite  of  all  the  rifles  we  could  bring 
to  the  rescue.^'*'^ 

"November  24,  Fridav. — The  weather  still  mild. 
I  attempted  to  work  to-day  at  charting,  I  placed  a 
large  board  on  our  stove,  and  pasted  my  paper  to  it. 


the    sih'tit 
tlioy  wore 

i»  hear  Imd 
was    jil)o\it 
,y  1k>,  lower 
lear  was  of 
a  while  to 
ard,  aiul  to 
creature  of 
Toot.      1  re- 
V  under  my 
jk-ridgt's. 
nd  :  no  l)oai' 
ided  shade? 
led  ice  gave 
instant  for 
id  not  wait 
ite  if  I  had 
lese  scurvy- 
)1V  first  one 
1  gained 
)t  l)ack  one 
was  carried 
could  hring 

still   mild. 

I  placed  a 

paper  to  it. 


TifK    CAiuv    nv    N'if;irT. 


i;;i 


My  lam[)  reposed  on  the  lid  of  the  eolVee-kettle,  my 
instrumejits  in  the  .sliish-l)()iler,  mv  feel  in  tlie  jish- 
pan;  and  thus  I  drew  the  fu'st  coast-line  of  Clrinnell 
Land.  The  stove,  liy  close  watching  and  niggard 
feeding,  has  hurnt  only  sixty-five  [)onnds  in  the  last 
twenty-four  hours.  Of  course,  working  hy  night  I 
work  without  fire.  Tn  the  daytime  our  little  company 
take  every  man  Ids  share  of  duty  as  he  is  ahle.  l*oor 
Wilson,  just  ahle  to  stum[)  al)oiit  after  his  late  attai^k 
of  scurvy,  helps  to  wash  the  dishes.  Mctrton  and 
Brooks  sew  at  sledge-clothing,  while  Iviley,  McCiary, 
and  Ohlsen,  our  only  really  able-hodied  men,  cut  the 
ice  and  firewood. 

"December  1,  Friday. — I  am  writing  at  midnight. 
I  have  the  watch  from  eight  to  two.  It  is  day  in 
the  moonlight  on  deck,  the  thermometer  getting  up 
again  to  P)G°  helow  zer;).  As  I  eonie  down  to  the 
cal)iii — for  so  w^e  still  call  this  little  moss-lined  igloii  of 
ours — every  one  is  asleep,  snoring,  gritting  his  teeth, 
or  tal'ving  in  his  dreams.  This  is  pathognomonic; 
it  tells  of  Arctic  winter  and  its  companion  scurvy. 
Tom  Ilickey,  our  good-humored,  hlundering  cabin-boy, 
decorated  since  poor  Schubert's  death  wdtli  the  dig- 
nities of  cook,  is  in  that  little  dirty  cot  on  the  star- 
board side ;  the  rest  are  bedded  in  rows,  Mr.  Brooks 
and  myself  chock  aft.  Our  bunks  are  close  against  the 
frozen  moss  wall,  where  we  can  take  in  the  entire 
family  at  a  glance.  The  apartment  measures  twenty 
feet  by  eighteen ;  its  height  six  feet  four  inches  at  one 
place,  but  diversified  elsewhere  by  beams  crossing  at 


■■!!' 


I     I- 

r  ^1 


:':i 


i  f- 


m 


it'r'hi 


Ml 


ill 

1  ii;(|,  :. 


■,•:  i 


■'■J 


V' 


4 

i 

i 

iJ:'' 

j 

i 

;    :■  1 

m^ 

4:^)2 


SICKNESS     INCH  E  A  S  I  N  G. 


dillbroiit  distaiic's  IVom  the  lloor.  The  Jivonue  by 
which  it  is  approjiched  is  barely  to  l)e  seen  in  the 
moss  wall  forward : — twenty"  leet  of  air-tight  spaco 
make  misty  distance,  for  the  puff  of  outside-tempera- 
ture  that  came  in  with  me  has  fdled  our  atmosphere 
with  vesicles  of  va[)or.  Tlie  avenne — 15en-I)jer))ack  is 
our  poetic  name  for  it — closes  on  the  inside  Avith  a 
door  well  patched  with  tlainiel,  from  which,  stooping 
upon  all-fours,  you  ))ack  down  a  descent  of  four  feet  in 
twelve  through  a  tunnel  three  feet  high  and  two  feet 
six  inches  broad.  It  would  havc^  Ix'cn  a  tight  squeeze 
for  a  man  like  Mr.  Brooks  when  ho  was  ])etter  fed  and 
fatter.  Arrived  at  the  l)ottom,  vou  straitihten  your- 
self,  and  a  second  door  admits  you  into  the  dark  {uid 
sorrowing  hold,  empty  of  stores  and  stripped  to  its 
naked  ceiling  for  firewood.  From  this  we  grope  our 
way  to  the  main  hatch,  and  mount  jjy  a  rude  stairway 
of  boxes  into  the  open  air. 

'•'December  2,  Saturday. — Had  to  put  jNIr.  McGary 
and  Riley  under  active  treatment  for  scurvy.  Gums 
retracted,  ankles  swollen,  and  bad  lumbago.  Mr.  Wil- 
son's case,  a  still  Avorse  one,  has  been  brought  under. 
Morton's  is  a  saddening  one  :  I  cannot  aflbrd  to  lose 
him.  lie  is  not  only  one  of  my  most  intelligent 
men,  but  he  is  daring,  cool,  and  everyway  trustworthy. 
Ilis  tendon  Achilles  has  been  completely  perforated, 
and  the  surface  of  the  heel-bone  exposed.  An  opera- 
tion in  cold,  darkness,  and  privation,  would  probably 
bring  on  locked-jaw.  Brooks  grows  discouraged  :  the 
poor  fellow  has  scurvy  in  his  stump,  and  his  leg  is 


CUTTIXG      INTO     THE      I?  K  I G. 


433 


vciuie  by 
ni   in   the 
iAit   space 
o-tempera- 
Aniosphere 
>jcvl)a('k  is 
ide  ^vitli  a 
h,  stooping 
lour  feet  in 
ul  two  feet 
gilt  squeeze 
tor  fed  and 
ill  ten    your- 
le  dark  and 
pped    to  its 
L»  grope  our 
de  stairway 

Mr.  MeGary 
rvy.     Gums 
Mr.  Wil- 
li lilit  under, 
ord  to  lose 
intelligent 
rustwtn-tliy. 
perforated, 
An  opera- 
dd  probably 
uraged :   tlie 
d  bis  leg  is 


drawn  !']>  by  tlu'  contraction  of  tbe  Ucxors  at  tbc  knee- 
joint.  This  is  the  third  case  on  board, — the  iburtli  if 
I  include  my  own, — of  contracted  tendons. 

"  December  3,  Sunday. — I  liave  now  on  hand  twenty- 
four  hundred  pounds  of  cliopped  wood,  a  sttn'e  collected 
with  great  dilliculty;  and  yet  bow  inadecpiate  a  pro- 
vision for  the  sickness  and  accident  we  must  look  ibr 
througli  the  rest  of  the  dark  days!  It  recjuires  tbe 
most  vigorous  effort  of  what  we  call  a  healthy  man  to 
tear  from  the  oak  ribs  of  our  stout  little  vessel  a  single 
day's  firewood.  We  have  l)ut  three  left  who  can 
manage  even  this ;  and  we  cannot  spare  more  than 
one  for  the  daily  duty.  Two  thousand  pounds  will 
barely  carry  us  to  the  end  of  January,  and  the  two 
severest  months  of  the  Arctic  year,  February  and 
March,  will  still  be  ahead  of  us. 

"  To  carry  us  over  these,  our  days  of  greatest  antici- 
pated trial,  we  bave  tbe  outside  oak  sheathing, — or 
trebling,  as  tbe  carpenters  call  it, — a  sort  of  extra  skin 
to  protect  the  brig  against  the  shocks  of  the  ice. 
Althougb  nearly  tliree  inches  tbick,  it  is  only  spiked 
to  her  sides,  and  carpenter  Olilsen  is  sure  that  its 
removal  will  not  interfere  witli  her  sea-worthiness. 
Cut  the  trebling  only  to  the  water-line,  and  it  will 
give  me  at  least  two  and  a  half  tons;  and  with  this — 
God  willing — I  may  get  through  tbis  awful  winter,  and 
sai'G  the  hr'uj  besides! 

"  December  4,  Monday. — That  stove  is  smoking  so 
that  three  of  our  party  are  down  with  acute  inllamma- 
tion  of  tbe  eyes.     I  fear  I  must  increase  tbe  diameter 

v.. I,.  I. —28 


m 


434 


THE     NIGIIT-^VATCH. 


of  our  smoke-pipes,  for  the  pitch-pine  which  we  hum, 
to  save  up  our  o<ak  for  tlie  greater  cold,  is  redundantly 
charged  Avith  turpentine.  Yet  we  do  not  want  an  in- 
creased draught  to  consume  our  seventy  pounds;  the 
fiat  '  No  more  wood'  comes  soon  enough. 

"  Then  for  the  night-watch.  I  have  generally  some- 
thing on  hand  to  occupy  me,  and  can  volunteer  for 
the  hours  before  my  regular  term.  Every  thing  is 
closed  tight ;  I  muffle  myself  in  furs,  and  write ;  or,  if 
the  cold  denies  me  that  pleasure,  I  read,  or  at  least 
think.  Thank  heaven,  even  an  Arctic  temperature 
leaves  the  mind  unchilled.  But  in  truth,  though  our 
hourly  observations  in  the  air  range  between  — 40°  and 
— 30°,  we  seldom  register  less  than  +36°  below. 

"  December  5,  Tuesday. — McGary  is  no  better,  but 
happily  has  no  notion  how  bad  he  is.  I  have  to  give 
him  a  grating  of  our  treasured  potatoes.  He  and 
Brooks  will  doubtless  finish  the  two  I  have  got  out, 
and  then  there  will  be  left  twelve.  They  are  now 
three  years  old,  poor  old  frozen  memorials  of  the  dear 
land  they  grew  in.  They  are  worth  more  than  their 
weight  in  gold." 


I 


Ipf  M 


\l 

1 

J 

i^^^ 

< 

llii 

f 

i 

11 

|i 

; 

1 

i 

kit 

kk^.     1 

iTVrliiiii    ' 


■MMVM-v. 


L  we  burn, 
jdundantly 
rant  an  in- 
3unds;  the 

rally  some- 
)luntcer  for 
ry  tiling  is 
nite;  or,  if 

or  at  least 
temperature 

tliougli  our 
n  — 46°  and 

jelow. 

)  better,  but 
have  to  give 
^s.  He  and 
ave  got  out, 
ey  are  now 
Is  of  the  dear 
•e  than  their 


I 


CHAPTER  XXXn. 

ESQUIMAUX    SLEDGES — KONSALL's  RETURN — RESULTS   OF    THE   HUNT 
—  RETURN    OP    WITHDRAWING    PARTY  —  TIIEIR    RECEPTION  —  TUE 

ESQUIMAUX    ESCORT  —  CONFERENCE  —  CONCILIATION ON   FIRE  — 

CASUALTY CHRISTMAS  —  OLE  BEN  —  A  JOURNEY  AHEAD  —  SET- 
TING OUT  —  A  DREARY  NIGHT — STRIKING  A  LIGHT  —  END  OF 
1854. 

I  WAS  asleep  in  the  forenoon  of  the  7th,  after  the 
fatigue  of  an  extra  night-watch,  when  I  was  called  to 
the  deck  by  the  report  of  '"  Esquimaux  sledges."  They 
came  on  rapidly,  five  sledges,  with  teams  of  six  dogs 
each,  most  of  the  drivers  strangers  to  us;  an'  in  a 
few  minutes  were  at  the  brig.  Their  errand  was  of 
charity :  they  were  bringing  back  to  us  Bonsall  and 
Petersen,  two  of  the  party  that  left  us  on  the  28th  of 
Au2;ust. 

The  party  had  many  adventures  and  much  suffering 
to  tell  of.  Tliey  had  verified  by  painful  and  perilous 
experience  all  I  had  anticipated  for  them.  But  the 
most  stirring  of  their  announcements  was  the  condition 
they  had  left  their  associates  in,  two  hundred  miles  off, 
divided  in  their  counsels,  their  energies  broken,  and 

4:55 


I     I 


i  •"■ 


';   i 


480 


B  (•  X  S  A  T.  T.    S      R  K  T  U  U  N, 


11 


I   ' 


their  provisions  nearly  gono.  I  reserve  for  another 
page  the  history  of  +heir  waiulerings.  My  first  thought 
was  of  the  meuns  of  reseuins  and  relievini!:  them. 

I  resolved  to  despatch  the  Esquimaux  escort  at  once 
with  such  supplies  as  our  miseral)ly-imperfect  stores 
allowed,  they  giving  tlieir  pledge  to  carry  them  with 
all  speed,  and^  what  T  felt  to  be  nnicli  less  certain, 
with  all  hcmesty.  But  neither  of  the  gentlemen  who 
Inid  come  with  them  felt  himself  in  condition  to  repent 
the  journey.  Mr.  Bonsall  was  evidently  ])roken  down, 
and  Petersen,  never  too  relial)le  in  emergency,  was  for 
postponing  the  time  of  setting  out.  Of  our  own  party — 
those  who  had  remained  with  ihe  brig — McGary,  Hans, 
and  myself  were  the  only  ones  able  to  move,  and  of 
these  McGary  was  now  fairly  on  the  sick  list.  We 
could  not  be  absent  for  a  single  day  without  jeoparding 
the  lives  of  the  rest. 

'•  December  8,  Friday. — I  am  much  afraid  these  pro- 
visions will  never  reach  the  wanderers.  We  were 
busy  every  hour  since  Bonsall  arrived  getting  them 
ready.  We  cleaned  and  boiled  and  packed  a  hundred 
pounds  of  pork,  and  sewed  u^^.  smaller  packages  of 
meat-biscuit,  bread-dust,  and  tea;  and  despatched  the 
whole,  some  three  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  by  the 
returning  convoy.  But  I  have  no  faith  in  an  Esqui- 
maux under  temptation,  and  I  almost  regret  that  I 
did  not  accompany  them  myself  It  might  have  been 
wiser.  But  I  will  set  Hans  on  the  track  in  the  morn- 
ing ;  and,  if  I  do  not  hear  within  four  days  that  the 
stores  are  fairly  on  their  way,  codte  qui  coCite,  I  will  be 


■  ( 


ijKsri.Ts    OK    tup:    iiuxt. 


437 


,v  another 
st  tbouglit 
:lieiu. 

Dvt  at  once 
feet   stores 
them  Avith 
'ss  certain, 
lemen  Avbo 
)n  to  repeat 
oken  down, 
icv,  was  for 
)wn  part}- — 
Gary,  Hans, 
love,  and  of 
k  list.     We 
t  jeoparding 

id  tViese  pro- 
We   were 
:etting  them 
[h\  a  hnndred 
packages  of 
kpatched  the 
[mds,  hy  the 
|in  an  Escpii- 
fcirret  that  I 
lit  have  been 
in  th(i  morn- 
ays  that  the 
^ide,  I  will  be 


|i 


I 


oir  to  tlie  lower  l)av  and  hold  the  whole  tribe  as  host- 
aues  for  tlie  absent  party. 

'' Ih'ooks  is  wasting  with  night-sweats;  and  my  iron 
man,  McGary,  has  been  sufl'ering  for  two  da^s  witli 
ant)malous  cramps  from  exposnre. 

'"These  Esquimaux  have  left  us  some  wahnis-beef; 
and  poor  littk'  Myouk,  who  is  unabated  in  liis  aflec- 
tion  for  nie,  made  me  a  s})eeial  present  of  half  a  liver. 
These  go  of  course  to  the  hospital.  God  knows  they 
are  needed  there  ! 

"Deceml)er  %  Satiu'day. — Tlie  superabundant  life 
of  Northumberland  Island  has  impressed  Petersen  as 
much  as  it  did  me.  I  cannot  think  of  it  without 
recurring  to  the  fortunes  of  Franklin's  party.  Our 
own  sickness  I  attrilnite  to  our  civilized  diet ;  had  we 
plent}'  of  frozen  walrus  I  would  laugh  at  the  scurvy. 
And  it  was  only  because  I  was  looking  to  other  o])jects — 
summer  researches,  and  explorations  in  the  fall  with 
the  single  view  to  escape — that  I  failed  to  secure  an 
abundance  of  fresh  food.  Even  in  August  I  could 
have  gathered  a  winter's  supply  of  birds  and  cochlearia. 

"  From  Miiy  to  August  we  lived  on  seal,  twenty-five 
before  the  middle  of  July,  all  brought  in  by  one  man : 
a  more  assiduous  and  l)etter-organized  hunt  would 
have  swelled  the  number  without  a  limit.  A  few  boat- 
parties  in  June  would  have  stocked  us  with  eider-eggs 
for  winter  use,  three  thousand  to  the  trip;  and  the 
snowdrifts  would  have  kept  them  fresh  for  the  break- 
fast-table. I  loaded  mv  boat  with  ducks  in  three 
hours,  as  late  as  the  middle  of  July  and  not  more  than 


h 


'I'l  *' 


^  1 

1 

'  i 

1 

! 

1 

■1  ! 

1*1      ' 

'i 

1           ^ 

438      RETURN     OF     WITHDRAWING     PARTY. 


thirty-five  miles  from  our  anchorage.  And  even  now, 
here  are  these  Esquimaux,  sleek  and  oily  with  their 
walrus-blubber,  only  seventy  miles  off.  It  is  not  a 
region  for  starvation,  nor  ought  it  to  be  for  scurvy 


,,4i*rp 


CLIFFS,       NORTHUMBERLAND      ISLAND. 


"December  12,  Tuesday. — Brooks  awoke  me  at 
three  this  morning  with  the  cry  of  '  Esquimaux  again !' 
I  dressed  hastily,  and,  groping  my  way  over  the  pile  of 
boxes  that  leads  up  from  the  hold  into  the  darkness 
above,  made  out  a  group  of  human  figures,  masked  by 
the  hooded  jumpers  of  the  natives.     They  stopped  at 


' 


i.: 


U  T  Y. 

even  now, 
with  their 
t  is  not   a 
)r  scurvy 


oke  nie  at 
naux  again!' 
?r  the  pile  of 
:he  darkness 
masked  by 
y  stopped  at 


u 
^i 


T  II  E  I  U      H  E  C  E  r  T  I  U  X, 


489 


the  gangway,  and,  as  I  was  aljout  to  challenge,  one  of 
them  sprang  forwarl  and  grasped  my  hand.  It  was 
Doctor  Hayes.  A  few  words,  dictated  hy  suffering, 
certainly  not  by  any  anxiety  as  to  his  recei)tion,  and 
at  his  bidding  the  whole  party  came  upon  deck.  Poor 
fellows !  I  could  only  grasp  their  hands  and  give  them 
a  brother's  welcome. 

"The  thermometer  was  at  minus  50°;  they  were 
covered  with  rime  and  snow,  and  were  fainting  with 
hunger.  It  was  necessary  to  use  cauticm  in  taking 
them  below;  for,  after  an  exposure  of  such  fearful 
intensity  and  duration  as  they  had  gone  through,  the 
warmth  of  the  cabin  would  have  prostrated  them  com- 
pletely. They  had  journeyed  three  hundred  and  fifty 
miles;  and  their  last  run.  from  the  bay  near  Etah,  some 
seventy  miles  in  a  right  line,  was  through  the  hum- 
mocks at  this  appalling  temperature. 

"One  by  one  they  all  came  in  and  were  housed. 
Poor  fellows!  as  they  threw  open  their  Esquimaux 
garments  by  the  stove,  how  they  relished  the  scanty 
luxuries  which  we  had  to  offer  them!  The  coffee  and 
the  meat-biscuit  soup,  and  the  molasses  and  the  wheat 
bread,  even  the  salt  pork  which  our  scurvy  forbade  the 
rest  of  us  to  touch, — how  they  relished  it  all!  For 
more  than  two  months  they  had  lived  on  frozen  seal 
and  walrus-meat. 

"  They  are  almost  all  of  them  in  danger  of  collapse, 
but  I  have  no  apprehension  of  life  unless  from  tetanus. 
Steplienson  is  prostrate  witli  pericarditis.  I  resigned 
my  own  bunk  to  Dr.  Hayes,  who  is  much  prostrated : 


}   '< 


!t   il 


II 


iV. 


ng     I 


440 


THE     ESQUIMAUX     ESCORT. 


he  will  prol){il)ly  lose  two  of  his  toes,  perhaps  ji  third. 
The  rest  have  no  special  injury. 

"I  cannot  crowd  the  details  of  their  journe\-  into  my 
diary.  I  have  noted  some  of  them  from  Dr.  Hayes's 
words;  but  he  has  promised  me  a  written  report,  and  I 
wait  I'or  it.  It  was  providential  that  they  did  not  stop 
for  Petersen's  return  or  rely  on  the  engagements  which 
his  Es(piinuuix  attendants  had  made  to  them  ms  well 
as  to  us.  The  sledges  that  carried  our  relief  of  provi- 
sions passed  through  the  Etah  settlement  empty,  on 
some  furtive  project,  we  know  not  what. 

"December  13,  Wednesday. — The  Esquimaux  who 
accompanied  the  returning  party  are  nearly  all  of  them 
well-known  friends.  They  were  engaged  from  different 
settlements,  but,  as  they  neared  the  brig,  volunteers 
added  themselves  to  the  escort  till  they  numbered  six 
drivers  and  as  many  as  forty-two  dogs.  Whatever 
may  have  been  their  motive,  their  conduct  to  our  poor 
friends  was  certainly  full  of  humanity.  They  diove 
at  flying  speed;  every  hut  gave  its  w^elcome  as  they 
halted;  the  w^omen  were  ready  without  invitation  to 
dry  and  chafe  their  worn-out  guests. 

"I  found,  however,  that  there  were  other  objects 
connected  with  their  visit  to  the  brig.  Suffering  and 
a  sense  of  necessity  had  involved  some  of  our  foot- 
w^orn  absentees  in  a  breach  of  hospitality.  While 
resting  at  Kalutunah's  hut,  they  had  found  opportunity 
of  a])propriating  to  their  own  use  certain  articles  of 
clothing,  fox-skins  and  the  like,  under  circumstances 
which  admitted  of  justification  only  by  the  law  of  the 


I 


1  ; 

i 
1 

iy 

k. 

C  0  N  F  i:  U  E  N  C  E. 


4-11 


s  a  third. 

y  into  my 
r.  Hayes's 
lort,  and  I 
il  not  stop 
nts  ^\"llicll 
ni  'IS  well 
'  of  provi- 
.'nipty,  on 

nnux  who 
dl  of  them 
n  different 
volunteers 
n  be  red  six 

Whatever 
our  poor 

ley  drove 
le  as  they 
/itation  to 

er  objects 
'ering  and 
our  foot- 
y.  While 
pportunity 
articles  of 
umstances 
law  of  the 


more  sagacious  and  the  stronger.  It  wa.s  apparent 
that  our  savage  friends  had  their  plaint  to  make,  or,  it 
might  be,  to  avenge. 

"My  first  attention,  after  ministering  to  the  imme- 
diate wants  of  all,  was  turned  to  the  office  of  conciliat- 
ing our  Es(piimaux  benefiictors.  Thougli  they  wore 
their  habitual  faces  of  smiling  satisfaction,  I  could  read 
them  too  well  to  be  deceived.  Policy  as  well  as  moral 
duty  have  made  me  anxious  always  to  deserve  their 
respect;  but  I  had  seen  enough  of  mankind  in  its 
varied  relations  not  to  know  that  respect  is  little  else 
than  a  tribute  to  superiority  either  real  or  supposed, — 
and  that  among  the  rude  at  least,  one  of  its  elements 
is  fear. 

"I  therefore  called  them  together  in  stern  and 
cheerless  conference  on  the  deck,  as  if  to  incpiire  into 
the  truth  of  transactions  that  I  had  heard  of,  leaving 
it  doubtful  from  my  manner  which  w\as  the  party  I 
proposed  to  implicate.  Then,  by  the  intervention  of 
Petersen,  I  call-ed  on  Kalutunah  for  his  story,  and  went 
through  a  full  train  of  questionings  on  both  sides.  It 
was  not  difiicult  to  satisfy  them  that  it  was  my 
purpose  to  do  justice  all  round.  The  subject  of  con- 
troversy was  set  out  fully,  and  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
convince  me  that  an  appeal  to  kind  feeling  might  have 
been  substituted  with  all  efiect  for  the  resort  to  artifice 
or  force.  I  therefore,  to  tlie  immense  satisfaction  of 
our  stranger  guests,  assured  them  of  my  approval,  and 
pulled  their  hair  all  around. 

"They  were  introduced  into  the  oriental  recess  of 


•  M  I  I 


'•!,: 


I'        M 


442 


CONC  1  L  I  ATIO  X. 


1 

1 

yr 

H 

■j; 

1:.  ^ 

■  ^  , 

w^* 

j 

E 
H 

:,;.;■' 

H 

i  i''i 

J    !  ' 

H 

i 

Ul 

our  dormitory, — hitherto  an  unsolved  mystery.  There, 
seated  on  a  red  bhinket,  with  four  pork-fat  himp.s, 
throwing-  an  illumination  over  old  worsted  damask 
curtains,  hunting-knives,  rifles,  beer-barrels,  galley-stove 
and  chronometers,  I  dealt  out  to  each  man  five  needles, 
a  file,  and  a  stick  of  wood.    To  Kalutunah  and  Shunghu 


SHU  NGH  U. 


I  gave  knives  and  other  extras;  and  in  conclusion 
spread  out  our  one  remaining  buffalo  close  to  the  stove, 
built  a  roaring  fire,  cooked  a  hearty  supper,  and  by 
noonday  they  were  sleeping  away  in  a  state  of  thorough 
content.  I  explained  to  them  further  that  my  people 
did   not   steal;    that  the   fox-jumpers   and   boots  and 


ii.  ■A 


y.  There, 
fat  lamps, 
d  daiiuiHk 
alley-Mtove 
/G  needles, 
1  Shungliu 


conclusion 
I  the  stove, 
lY,  and  by 
)f  thorough 
my  people 
boots  and 


I 


it       1 


'  -hi 


!  V\' 


't 


■■-:H 


1-  !!': 


I      i 


I  -U'S 


mm 


m: 

^^i 

/ 

■i  f' 

1 

» 

i^'L 

i'- 

1: 

!               i 
i        ' 

coo  K  I  N  (;-KO(^  M      O  \      F  1  K  E. 


443 


. 


sledges  were  only  taken  to  save  their  lives;  and  I  there- 
upon returned  them. 

'"The  party  took  a  sound  sleep,  and  a  second  or 
rathi'r  a  eontinuous  feed,  and  left  again  on  their  return 
through  the  hunnnoeks  with  apparent  confidence  and 
good-humor.  Of  course  they  prigged  a  few  knives  and 
forks; — but  that  refers  itself  to  a  national  trait. 

'"December  23,  Saturday. — This  uncalculated  acces- 
sion of  numbers  makes  our  little  room  too  crowded 
to  be  wholesome :  1  have  to  guard  its  ventilation 
with  all  the  severity  that  would  befit  a  surgical 
ward  of  our  Bloekley  Hospital.  We  are  using  the 
Esquimaux  lamp  as  an  accessory  to  our  sto\'e :  it 
helps  out  the  cooking  and  water-making,  without 
encroaching  upon  our  rigorously-meted  allowance  of 
wood.  But  the  odor  of  pork-fat.  our  only  oil,  we 
have  found  to  be  injurious;  and  our  lamps  are  there- 
fore placed  outside  the  tossut,  in  a  small  room  bulk- 
headed  ofl'  for  their  use. 

"  This  new  arrangement  gave  rise  yesterday  to  a 
nearly  fatal  disaster.  A  watch  had  been  stationed  in 
charge  of  the  lamp,  with  the  usual  order  of  'No  un- 
covered lights.'  He  deserted  his  post.  Soon  afterward, 
Hans  found  the  cooking-room  on  fire.  It  was  a  hor- 
rible crisis ;  for  no  less  than  eight  of  our  party  were 
absolutely  nailed  to  their  beds,  and  there  was  nothing 
but  a  l)ulkhead  between  them  and  the  lire.  I  gave 
short  l)ut  instant  orders,  stationing  a  line  between  the 
tide-hole  and  the  main  hatch,  detailing  two  men  to 
work  with  me,  and  ordering  all  the  rest  who  could 


'4  I 


!| 


t^  ^ 

's..,  i 

v^ 

^ '«! : 

i      j 

i  ; 

r 

,■)  ■'  !!■ 

444 


C  A  S  U  A  L  T  Y. 


mov(3  to  their  quarters.  Dr.  Hayes  with  liis  maimed 
foot,  Mr.  Brooks  with  his  contracted  legs,  and  poor 
Morton,  otherwise  among  our  best  men,  could  do 
nothing. 

"Beibrc  we  reached  the  fire,  the  entire  bulkhead 
was  in  a  blaze,  as  well  as  the  dry  timbers  and  skin  of 
the  brig.  Our  moss  walls,  with  their  own  tinder-like 
material  and  their  light  casing  of  inflannnal)le  wood, 
were  entirely  hidden  by  the  flames.  Fortunately  the 
furs  of  the  recently-returned  party  were  at  hand,  and 
with  them  I  succeeded  in  smothering  the  fire.  But  I  was 
obliged  to  push  through  the  blaze  of  our  sailcloth  bulk- 
liead  in  order  to  defend  the  wall ;  and,  in  my  anxiety 
to  save  time,  I  had  left  the  cabin  without  either  cap  or 
mittens.  I  got  through  somehow  or  other,  and  tore 
down  the  canvas  which  liunii:  against  that  dangerous 
localit}^  Our  rifles  were  in  this  corner,  and  their 
muzzles  pointing  in  all  directions. 

"  The  water  now  began  to  pass  down ;  but  with  the 
discharge  of  the  first  bucketful  the  smoke  overcame 
me.  As  I  found  myself  going,  I  pushed  for  the  hatch- 
way, knowing  that  the  bucket-line  would  feel  me. 
Seeing  was  impossible ;  but,  striking  Ohlsen's  legs  as  I 
fell,  I  was  passed  up  to  the  deck,  minus  beard,  eye- 
brows, and  forelock,  ^>/?/s  Uvo  burns  on  the  forehead 
and  one  on  each  palm. 

"  In  about  three  minutes  after  making  Avay  with  the 
canvas,  the  fire  was  got  under,  and  in  less  than  half  an 
hour  all  was  safe  again.  But  the  transition,  for  even 
the  shortest  time,  from  the  fiery  Shadruchian  furnace- 


I 


C  II  K  I  S  T  M  A  S      D  I  X  X  E  R. 


445 


I  maimed 
and  poor 
could    do 

bulkhead 
d  skin  of 
inder-like 
l)le  wood, 
iiately  the 
hand,  and 
But  I  was 
•loth  Indk- 
ly  anxiety 
her  cap  or 
,  and  tore 
dangerous 
and   their 

with  the 
overcame 
:lie  liatch- 
fccl   )ne. 
s  legs  as  I 
)(.'ard,  eye- 
forehead 

y  with  the 
m  half  an 
1,  for  even 
n  furnace- 


temperature  below,  to  40°  jjelow  zero  aljove,  was  in- 
tolerably trying.  Every  man  suffered,  and  few  escaped 
without  frost-bitten  fingers. 

"  The  remembrance  of  the  danger  and  its  horrible 
results  almost  miraculously  averted  shocks  us  all. 
Had  we  lost  our  ])rig,  not  a  man  could  have  survived : 
without  shelter,  clothing,  or  food,  the  thermometer 
almost  eighty  degrees  below  the  freezing  point,  and  a 
brisk  wind  stirring,  what  hope  could  we  have  on  the 
open  ice-field  ? 

"  December  25,  Christmas,  Monday. — All  together 
again,  the  returned  and  the  steadfast,  we  sat  down  to 
our  Christmas  dinner.  There  was  more  love  than  with 
the  stalled  ox  of  former  times  ;  but  of  herbs  none.  We 
forixot  our  discomforts  in  the  blessings  which  adhered 
to  us  still ;  and  when  we  thought  of  the  long  road 
ahead  of  us,  we  thought  of  it  hopefully.  I  pledged 
myself  to  give  them  their  next  Christmas  with  their 
homes;  and  each  of  us  drank  his  'absent  friends'  with 
ferocious  zest  over  one-eighteenth  part  of  a  bottle  of 
sillery, — the  last  of  its  hamper,  and,  alas !  no  longer 
mousseux. 

"  But  if  this  solitary  relic  of  festival  days  had  lost 
its  sparkle,  we  had  not.  We  passed  around  merrily 
our  turkeys  roast  and  boiled,  roast-beef,  onions,  pota- 
toes and  cucumbers,  watermidons,  and  God  knows 
what  other  cravings  of  the  scurvy-sickened  palate, 
with  entire  exclusion  of  the  fact  that  each  one  of  these 
was  variously  represented  by  pork  and  beans.  Lord 
Peter  himself  was  not  more  cordial  in  his  dispensa- 


446 


0  L  E      1'.  K  N    S      HO  S  V  1  T  A  L  I  T  Y. 


rt| 


I!    ( 


ml 


m 


un- 


':i     h 


tion  of  plum-pii(.l(ling,  mutton,  and  custard  to  his 
unbelieving  brothers. 

"  McGary,  of  course,  tokl  us  his  story :  we  hear  it 
every  day,  and  laugh  at  it  almost  as  heartily  as  he 
does  himself.  Caesar  Johnson  is  the  guest  of  '  Ole 
Ben,'  colored  gentlemen  both,  who  do  occasional  white- 
washing. The  worthies  have  dined  stanchly  on  the 
dish  of  beans,  browned  and  relished  by  its  surmount- 
ing cube  of  pork.  A  hospitable  pause,  and,  with  a 
complacent  wave  of  the  hand,  Ole  Ben  addresses  the 
lady  hostess : — '  Ole  woman  !  bring  on  de  resarve.' 
'  Han't  got  no  resarve.'  '  Well,  den,' — with  a  placid 
smile, — '  bring  on  de  beans !' 

"  So  much  for  the  Merrie  Christmas.  What  portion 
of  its  mirth  was  genuine  with  the  rest  I  cannot  tell, 
for  we  are  practised  actors  some  of  us ;  but  there  was 
no  heart  in  my  share  of  it.  My  thoughts  were  with 
those  far  off,  who  are  thinking,  I  know,  of  me.  I 
could  bear  my  own  troubles  as  I  do  my  eider-down 
coverlet;  for  I  can  see  myself  as  I  am,  and  feel  sus- 
tained by  the  knowledge  that  I  have  fought  my  battle 
well.  But  there  is  no  one  to  tell  of  this  at  the  home- 
table.  Pertinacity,  unwise  daring,  calamity, — any  of 
these  may  come  up  unbidden,  as  my  name  circles 
round,  to  explain  why  I  am  still  away." 

For  some  days  before  Christmas  I  had  been  medi- 
tating a  sledge-journey  to  our  Esquimaux  neighbors. 
The  condition  of  the  little  party  under  my  charge  left 
me  no  alternative,  uncomfortable  and  hazardous  as  I 
know  that  it  must  be.     I  failed  in  the  first  effort ;   but 


A     J  f)  U  H  N  E  Y     A  II  f]  A  D. 


447 


■d    to    his 

;^e  hear  it 
tily  as  he 
it  of  'Ole 
inal  white- 
ily  on  the 
surmount- 
id,  with  a 
Iresses  the 
e    resarve.' 
:h  a  placid 

hat  portion 
uinnot  tell, 
■j  there  was 
were  with 
of  me.      I 
eider-down 
id  feel  sus- 
my  battle 
the  home- 
y—any of 
ime   circles 

been  medi- 
neighbors. 
charge  left 
Lirdous  as  I 
effort;  but 


there  were  incidents  connected  with  it  which  may 
deserve  a  place  in  this  volume.  I  recur  to  my 
journal  for  a  succinct  record  of  my  motives  in  set- 
ting out: — 

"December  26,  Tuesday. — The  moon  is  nearly  above 
the  cliffs;  the  thermometer — 57°  to — 45°,  the  mean 
of  the  past  four  days.  In  the  midst  of  this  cheering 
conjunction,  I  have  ahead  of  me  a  journey  of  a  hundred 
miles;  to  say  nothing  of  the  return.  Worse  t' un  this, 
I  have  no  landmarivs  to  guide  me,  and  must  be  my  own 
pioneer. 

"But  there  is  a  duty  in  tlio  case.  McGary  and 
Brooks  are  sinking,  and  thr-l  rapidly.  Wab-us-beef 
alone  can  sustain  them,  and  it  is  to  be  got  from  the 
natives  and  nowhere  else.  It  is  a  merciful  change  of 
conditions  that  I  am  the  strongest  now  of  the  whole 
j)arty,  as  last  winter  I  was  the  weakest.  The  duty  of 
collecting  food  is  on  me.  I  shall  go  first  to  the  lower 
Bay  Esquimaux,  and  thence,  if  the  hunt  has  failed 
there,  to  Cape  Robertson. 

"  My  misgivings  are  mostly  on  account  of  the  dogs ; 
for  it  is  a  rugged,  hummocked  drive  of  twenty-two 
hours,  even  with  strong  teams  and  Esquimaux  drivers. 
We  have  been  feeding  them  on  salt  meat,  for  we  have 
had  nothing  else  to  give  them;  and  they  are  out  of 
health:  and  there  are  hardly  enough  of  them  at  best 
to  carry  our  lightest  load.  If  one  of  these  tetanoids 
should  attack  them  on  the  road,  it  may  be  game  up  for 
all  of  us. 

"■  But  it  is  to  be  tried  at  last :  Petersen  will  go  witli 


'•i  ! 


i  '^  ' 


'\i  (• 


448 


S  E  T  T  r  X  G      0  U  T. 


mc,  and  we  will  cliil)  our  wits.  I  do  not  foar  the  cold: 
we  are  impregiijiblc  in  our  furs  while  under  exercise, 
though  if  we  should  be  forced  to  walk,  and  give  out,  it 
might  be  a  diflerent  matter.  We  shall  have,  I  imagine, 
a  temperature  not  much  above  — 54°,  and  I  do  not  see 
hoAv  we  are  to  carry  heating-apparatus.  We  have  load 
enough  without  it.  Our  only  diet  will  be  a  stock  of 
meat-ljiscuit,  to  which  I  shall  add  for  mvself — Peter- 
sen's  taste  is  less  educated — a  few  rats,  chopped  up 
and  frozen  into  the  tallow-balls. 

"December  28,  Thursday. — T  have  fed  the  dogs  the 
last  two  days  on  their  dead  brethren.  S})ite  of  all 
proverl)s,  dofi  will  cat  dog,  if  properly  cooked.  I  have 
been  saving  up  some  who  died  of  fits,  intending  to  use 
their  skins,  and  these  have  come  in  very  opportunely. 
I  boil  them  into  a  sort  of  bhjody  soup,  and  deal  them 
out  twice  a  day  in  chunks  and  solid  jelly;  for  of  course 
they  are  frozen  like  quartz  rock.  These  salt  meats  are 
absolutely  poisonous  to  the  Northern  Esquimaux  dog. 
We  have  now  lost  fifty  odd,  and  one  died  yesterday  in 
the  very  act  of  eating  his  reformed  diet. 

"  The  moon  to-morrow  will  be  for  twelve  hours  above 
the  horizon^  and  so  nearly  circumpolar  afterward  as  to 
justify  me  a\  the  attempt  to  reach  the  Esquimaux 
hunting-ground  about  Cape  Alexander.  Every  thing  is 
read}^;  and,  God  willing,  I  start  to-morrow,  and  pass  the 
four-hours'  dou-halt  in  the  untenanted  hut  of  Anoatok. 
IMien  we  have,  as  it  may  be,  a  fifteen,  eighteen,  or 
twenty  hours'  march,  run  and  drive,  before  we  reach  a 
shelter  among  the  heathen  of  the  Bay. 


A     DREARY     NIGHT. 


440 


the  cold: 
exercise, 
ive  out,  it 
I  imagine, 
lo  not  see 
have  load 
L  stock  of 
.lf_Peter- 
lopped  up 

e  dogs  the 
pite  of  all 
1,  I  have 
ling  to  use 
)portunely. 
deal  them 
.r  of  course 

meats  are 
maux  dog. 

sterday  in 

lOurs  above 
ward  as  to 
Esquimaux 

ry  thing  is 
ad  pass  the 

f  Anoatok. 
ighteen,  or 
we  reach  a 


"January  2,  Tuesday. — Tlie  dogs  began  to  show 
signs  of  that  accursed  tetanoid  spasm  of  theirs  before 
we  passed  Ten-mile  Ravine.  AVhen  we  reached  IJasalt 
Camp,  six  out  of  eight  were  nearly  useless.  Our  thermo- 
meter was  at  — 44°,  and  the  wind  was  blowing  sharply 
out  of  the  gorge  from  the  glacier.  Petersen  wanted  to 
i-eturn,  but  was  persuaded  by  me  to  walk  on  to  the  huts 
at  Anoatok,  in  the  hope  that  a  halt  might  restore  the 
animals.     "We  reached  them  after  a  thirty  miles'  march. 

"The  sinuosities  of  this  bay  gave  fearful  travel:  the 
broken  ice  clung  to  the  rocks;  and  wo  could  only 
advance  by  climbing  up  the  ice-foot  and  down  again 
upon  the  floe,  as  one  or  the  other  gave  us  the  chance 
of  passing.  It  was  eleven  hours  and  over  before  we 
were  at  the  huts,  having  made  by  sledge  and  foot-tramp 
forty-five  miles.  We  took  to  the  best  hut,  fdled  in  its 
broken  front  with  snow,  housed  our  dogs,  and  crawled 
in  amonii:  them. 

a 

"It  was  too  cold  to  sleep.  Next  morning  we  broke 
down  our  door  and  tried  the  dogs  again :  they  could 
hardly  stand.  A  gale  now  set  in  from  the  southwest, 
obscuring  the  moon  and  blowing  very  hard.  We  were 
forced  back  into  the  hut ;  but,  after  corking  up  all  open- 
ings with  snow  and  making  a  fire  with  our  Esquimaux 
lamp,  we  got  up  the  temperature  to  30°  below  zero, 
cooked  caffce,  and-  fed  the  dogs  freely.  This  done, 
both  Petersen  and  myself,  our  clothing  frozen  stifl',  fell 
asleep  through  sheer  exhaustion;  the  wind  outside 
blowing  death  to  all  that  might  be  exposed  to  its  in- 
fluence. 

Vol.  I.— 20 


450 


S  T  IM  K  I  X  G     A      L  I  G  II  T. 


■-:  ■•5*J 

m 


ii-:i 


"  I  do  not  know  how  lonji'  we  .sk'[)t,  Ijut  my  Jidnii- 
nil)U'  c'lotliinii'  ko})t  nio  u[).  I  was  cold,  l)ut  Tar  I'roni 
dangerously  so;  and  was  in  a  fair  way  of  sleeping  out 
a  refresliing  night,  when  Pete''sen  waked  me  with — 
"Captain  Kane,  the  lamp's  out.'  I  heard  him  with  a 
thrill  of  horror.  The  gale  had  increased  ;  the  ct)ld  was 
piercing,  the  darkness  intense;  our  tinder  had  hecome 
moist,  and  Avas  now  like  an  icicle.  All  our  hre-arnis 
were  stacked  outside,  for  no  Arctic  man  will  trust 
l)()wder  in  a  condensing  temperature.  We  did  not 
dare  to  ])reak  down  our  doorway,  ibr  that  would  admit 
the  gale ;  our  onl}-  hope  of  heat  was  in  re-lighting  our 
lam[).  Petersen,  acting  by  my  directions,  made  several 
attempts  to  obtain  lire  from  a  poclvct-pistol ;  but  his 
only  tinder  was  nujss,  and  our  heavil3'  stone-roofed  hut 
or  ca\e  Avould  not  bear  the  concussion  of  a  ranuned 
wad. 

••  By  good  luck  I  found  a  bit  of  tolerably  dry  pajier 
in  my  jumper;  and,  becoming  apprehensive  that  Peter- 
sen would  waste  our  few  percussion-caps  with  his  in- 
elfectual  snapidngs,  I  determined  to  take  the  pistol 
myself.  It  was  so  intensely  dark  that  I  had  to  grope 
for  it,  and  in  doing  so  touched  his  hand.  At  that 
instant  the  pistol  became  distinctly  \'isible.  A  pale 
bluish  light,  slightly  tremulous  but  not  broken,  covered 
the  metallic  parts  of  it,  the  barrel,  lock,  and  trigger. 
The  stock  too,  was  clearly  discernible  as  if  by  the 
reflected  light,  and,  to  the  amazement  of  both  of  us, 
the  thumb  and  two  fingers  with  which  Petersen  was 
holding  it,   the  creases,  Avrinkles,  and   circuit  of  the 


KNI)      OF      1S54. 


401 


ny  iidmi- 

I'lir  IVoiii 

.'pin.ii'  out 

e  Avilh — 

in  ^vitll  a 

■  cold  was 

(1  Ijccoino 

lhv-;inns 

i\i\\    trust 

(lid    nut 

nld  admit 

diting  our 

de  several 

;  but   his 

L'ooil'd  hut 

I  ranniied 

dry  paper 
at  Peter- 
h  his  in- 
he  pistol 
to  grope 
At  that 
A  pale 
1,  covered 
d  trigger, 
if  bv  the 
oth  of  us, 
ersL'n  was 
Liit  of  the 


f: 


n 


\f^ 


nails  elearly  defined  n[»on  the  skin.  The  phospho- 
rescence was  not  unlike  the  inefiectual  fire  of  the  glow- 
worm. As  I  took  the  pistol  my  hand  became  illu- 
nnnated  also,  and  so  did  the  powder-rubbed  pjiper 
when  I  raised  it  against  the  mu/zle. 

"  The  paper  did  not  ignite  at  the  first  trial,  but,  the 
light  from  it  continuing,  T  was  able  to  charge  the  pistol 
without  dilliculty,  rolled  up  my  paper  into  a  cone, 
filled  it  with  moss  s])rinkled  over  with  ])owder,  and 
held  it  in  mv  hand  while  1  fir(>d.  This  time  I  sue- 
ceeded  in  producing  llame.  and  we  saw  no  more  of  the 
phosphorescence.  I  do  not  stop  for  theory  or  argu- 
ment to  explain  this  opportune  phenomenon  ;  our  fur 
clothing  and  the  state  of  the  atmosphere  may  refer  it 
plausibly  enough  to  our  electrical  condition. 

"As  socm  as  the  wind  had  partially  subsided,  we 
broke  out  of  the  hut  and  tried  the  dogs  toward  Refuge 
Inlet;  but  the  poor  broken-down  animals  could  not  sur- 
mount the  hunnnocks ;  and,  as  a  Ibrced  necessity  to 
save  their  lives  and  ours,  we  resolved  to  push  for  the 
brig  on  foot,  driving  them  before  us.  We  made  the 
walk  of  forty-four  miles  in  sixteen  hours,  almost  scud- 
ding before  the  gale,  and  arrived  safely  at  7  P.  M.  of 
Sunday  ;  the  temperature  — 40°. " 

With  this  fruitless  adventure  closed  the  year  18-34. 


*  , 


il 


i^l 


u  t. 


r-^ 


,r^ 


<c- 


COU.  AUSn.X'S  VEiJSELS 


,-'t -1?^"      /  -•'  .'•"  ^ 


July  1««.  /li 


r  L  0  E 


o 


^\\\y  ,^ 


n  A  R  «  0  W  S      STRAITS. 


I 


T  11  E      8  ()  L  I  1) 


!■  L  0  E 


Kxssri.AEir  T 


RK\S 

llAULIUU 


'C 


f  /•  -  ■•.  „■  *■  ■  v.-  r 

•■•  '      -Mr.  01II,:JEN  M 

V*..  Jii'tr  h^tli.  Ay  U'c  U-iultl. 


E!-i./i!>i.\rx  roiNT     i 

WUffr  nctii\'^pt'n,  July  l''rA. 


i--'.j."i)r.- 

"/  I 

Mil.  M.-l)  VRY'S  Ut.  Vinit, 


r'/!.'llOAT 


UATUEltTO.y 


c 


SMITH'S      STRAITS. 
.Vic(c/i  shoidi.g  the  CondUion  of  the  I.r  uf  llivrmrs  aitj  Smith's  StnuLi  j'ur  the  ye<irs  1  s,V|-:,,"i. 


SEE  PAOK  314  &C. 


V 


1 


.••-iiS::ui> 


f 


i 

I  ■ 

I 


NOTES. 


S~ 


I.AEIt 

lull 


•V  1"(''- 


1  I'"-54-;.5. 


Note  1,  p.  21. 

Si'iiixas,  properly  speaking,  as  outlets  of  subterranean  drainage,  arc  almost 
unknown  in  North  Greonliiiul.  At  Goilimvn,  Disco,  at  tiic  lino  of  junction  uf 
the  greenstones  anil  the  basis-granites,  tliere  is  a  pernninent  sprinir,  witli  a 
winter  temperature  of  33*u°  Fahr. ;  but  the  so-calleil  springs  of  the  Danish 
settlements,  as  far  orth  as  71!°,  are  deriveil  from  a  surface-draiiuigc  which  is 
suspended  during  the  colder  months  of  the  year. 


Note  2,  p.  23. 

The  shark-oil  trade  is  of  recent  growth  in  North  Greenland.  It  has  lately 
been  extended  as  far  north  as  I'roveii.  At  Neoikanek,  the  peat  of  greatest 
yield,  about  tiiree  hundred  tish  are  taken  annuall}'.  The  oil  is  expressed  fi'oni 
the  liver  of  the  Arctic  shark,  [S.  borealis,)  the  Ilvowcalder  of  the  Icelanders: 
it  is  extremely  pure,  resisting  cold,  and  well  adapteil  to  lubrication.  It  brings 
a  higher  price  in  the  Copeidiagen  market  than  the  best  seal-oils. 


Note  3,  p.  25. 

There  are  no  Moravian  missions  in  North  Greenland,  and  but  three  of  their 
settlements  in  the  south.  Named  in  the  order  of  their  date  of  colonization, 
they  are  New  Ileridiut,  Lichtenfels,  and  Frederickstahl.  With  these  excep- 
tions, the  entire  coast  is  Lutheran.  The  Lutheran  missions,  although  distinct 
in  organization  from  the  Royal  Greenland  Company,  are  nevertheless  under  the 
direct  patronage  of  government,  and  administered  by  a  board  appointed  by  the 
crown.  The  Moravians  have  no  special  facili'  cs,  and  are  dependent  for  their 
supplies  upon  private  negotiations  and  the  courtesy  of  the  Danish  trading- 
vessels. 

Note  4,  p.  29. 

There  arc  four  sizes  of  reindeer-skins,  of  distinct  <[nalities  and  marked  values 
among  tlie  Ksquimaux  : — 1.  Bennesoak  :  the  largest  males,  generally  without 
antlers.     2.  Nersutok :  males  of  lesser  size,  retaining  their  antlers  during  the 

453 


104 


N  U  T  E  S. 


wiritt'i 


;5.   Knln.'ik:   il'iimles  still  sniuilcr.  Imt  rmt  iimtcrliillv 


I.   NiiliUiik  ; 


the  3'(iir!iiij;s  or  ydiiriffcr  uninmls.  Tin  sc  lii>t  ;iic  |iri/('(l  (or  cliilili'fii'.M  clutliiriji. 
It  is  tliu  Jk'iiiit'suiik  which  is  so  useful  us  an  Arutic  sk'oiiinjj;-b;ijj;  in  tliu  ."Iclgc- 
jouriu-ys. 

Note  5,  p.  .'j2. 

AVitliiii  cKiiipiU'utivi'ly  ri-ccnt  jx-rioils  thu  Esijuiimuix  Imil  miiiiiir'I'  sottli'iiu'iits 
iirnuiul  Wilciix  I'liiiit  iimi  the  .Melville  (iliie'R'c;  Imt  in  ISiJti  tin-  siiiiill-|ii)X  so 
reiliiced  tlieni  thsit  they  were  conceiitniteil  iiiioiit  L'|ienmviU.  Exeejit  (leciisiouiil 
parties  for  tho  chaso  of  tlic  white  bear  or  the  eollection  of  eiiler-Uown,  tliero  iirc 
no  imtivos  north  of  Yotlik.  Cape  Sliaekletnn  !iui|  ilor-'e's  lleail  are,  however, 
visiteij  animiilly  fnr  ('}r^'s  anil  down.  Ily  the  trntunus  route  of  the  ('ulunial 
Itinerary,  the  latter  is  rated  at  twenty-eight  Dani>li,  or  almut  one  humlreil  and 
tliirty-tive  statute,  miles  from  Upernavik. 


NoTK  (5,  p.  43. 


■■  ' 


j^^i 


Tho  North  Water,  althoiij^h  its  position  varies  with  the  eharacter  and  period 
of  the  season,  may  he  found,  under  ordinary  eonditions,  in  the  month  of  August 
off  Cape  York.  The  hical  name  given  to  it  hy  the  whalers  is  the  (^'ai)e  York 
Water. 


Note 


40. 


Tiiis  moss — an  unrecognised  sphaginim — Avas  studded  with  tho  pale-yellow 
ilowers  of  the  llanuneulus  .-ahinii.  No  less  than  four  species  of  Dra'>a  were 
afterward  found  on  the  island. 

Note  8,  p.  40. 

Poa  and  alopecurus,  with  their  accompanying  hird-life,  are  abundant  on  tho 
soiithern  faces  of  Cape  Alexander;  tjut  all  the  iieadlands  to  the  north  are 
utterly  destitute  of  apparent  vegetation.  On  Sutherland's  Island  a  scanty 
supply  of  scurvy-grass  [Cocli/earia/inestruta)  may  bo  found. 


Note  9,  p.  49. 

This  ice  was  not  distinguishable  from  aloft  at  the  time  of  leaving  the  brig. 


Note  10,  p.  55. 

My  survey  of  this  harbor  shows  forty  fathoms  Avator  to  within  a  biscuit-toss 
of  its  northern  headland, — a  square  face  of  gneiss  rock ;  thence  K.  by  S.,  (true,) 
heading  for  a  small  glacier,  you  may  carry  seven  fathoms  to  Avithin  tAVO  hun- 
dred yards  of  lainl.  The  southern  side  is  shoal  and  rocky.  The  holding- 
ground  is  gooil,  and  the  cove  completely  landlocked,  except  a  small  channel 


\  (J  T  E  S. 


•JO 


\.   NnliUiik  : 
•ii's  cliitliiiiK- 


r  scttlemunts 
winivll-pox  80 
|)t  (K'ciisionivl 
wii,  there  lire 
ii't',  Imwi'vcr, 
tho  ('(ili)niiil 
liuiiiIiTil  iiml 


fmni  till'  wcstwanl ;  Jmt,  dwinv^  '"  •'"•  pn'v.ili'ncc  nf  fnir^  us  well  !it  wiml-i'ililifs 
fnnii  tlie  cliir.s  ami  iicrsUtciico  of  luiul  ice,  I  ciiiuiot  recoiimiPiKl  it  for  u  winter 
liarbitr. 

NOTK  11,  p.  50. 

Tliix  nninml  presented  one  of  tliose  r:ire  euMes  of  a  well-ilevelopcd  sccoml  pro- 
cess protniiling  ubout  six  inclicH.     I  was  iinuKle  to  preserve  tho  specimen. 


NoTK  12,  p.  58. 

Tlieno  were  the  results  of  direct  pre^Mire, — move  properly,  "cru^^Iied  ice." 
Tiu;  ice-hills  of  Von  WninLrell  nnd  Ameriean  authorities  are  grounded  ice.- 
upreared  tiy  wave  and  tidal  aetions. 


'r  and  jieriod 
nth  of  Au;,'ust 
he  (Jape  Vork 


0  pale-yellow 
f  Draba  were 


luidant  on  tiie 


le   north  are 
ml  a  scauty 


vx  the  brii'. 


a  biscuit-toss 
by  S.,  (true,) 
liiii  two  hun- 
Tho  hoMing- 
-niall  channel 


NoTK  1:5,  p.  (i.'j. 

These  are  arrangt'd  in  lines  not  unlike  those  described  by  Captain  IJayfield 
on  the  Labrador  coast,  'fliey  are  undoiibted'y  the  I'esult  of  ice-tran-portatioii. 
the  process  being  btiU  going  on.  At  the  head  of  Force  Bay  are  traces  of  an 
ancient  moraine. 

NoT'.  14,  p.  ()'). 

My  note-books  contain  many  instances  of  the  facility  with  which  the  Ksriui- 
maux  dog  relajises  into  a  savage  state.  Tliere  is  an  island  near  the  nol-.ti'iii- 
berg  fiords  where  such  animals  hunt  the  reindeer  in  packs,  and  are  habitinilly 
shot  by  the  natives. 

Note  1.'),  p.  08. 

See  page  .'}2:^)  and  Appendix  No.  Vf.  For  comparisons  of  dilVerence  of  longi- 
tude between  my  own  and  Cajitain  Inglefield's  surveys,  consult  any  point  on 
Admiralty  charts  north  of  78°  o?', — the  latitude  of  Rensselaer  Harbor,  which 
was  regarded  as  our  prime  meridian. 

Note  10,  p.  71. 

This  valley  is  Hanked  by  terraced  beach-lines :  its  background  is  the  seat  of 
an  ancient  moraine  worthy  of  study. 


Note  17,  p.  77. 

A  case  of  similar  peril  is  reported  by  Captain  Cator,  of  II.  B.  M.  steamer 
Intrepid.  Ilis  vessel  was  carried  bodily  up  the  inclined  face  of  an  iceberg,  and. 
after  being  high  and  dry  out  of  water,  launched  again  without  injury.  Fee 
"Nautical  Magazine." 


Ill'  ifji^i 


''!  I 


45G  NOTKS. 


NoTi:  18,  p.  81. 

Tlic  oT)scrvations  of  oiii'  pfirtics  cxtoinloil  the  range  of  the  musk-ox  {Ovilos 
moscli'itus)  to  the  Greeuh'itiil  coast.  None  of  u.s  saw  a  liviiij^  specimen;  but  the 
great  nuiiilier  of  (skeletons,  tlieir  state  of  preservation  ami  prob.il)le  foot-traek<, 
when  taken  in  conjunction  with  tlie  information  of  tiie  Esuuimaux,  leave  mo  no 
room  to  (loulit  hut  tiiat  tliesu  animals  have  lieen  recent  visitors. 


"OTE  10,  p.  82. 
Sec  "Examination  of  Phmts,"  by  Elias  Dm  ai;  1,  E?;q.,  in  Appeiulix  No.  XVIII. 

XOTE  '•^0,  p.  87. 

Excejit  for  cases  of  su<Men  effort  and  not  calling  for  continued  exertion  or 
exposure,  grog  was  not  looked  upon  as  advisable.  Hot  coffee  was  a  freiiuent 
anil  valuable  stimulus. 

Note  21,  p.  93. 

The  tenacity  with  which  the  ice-belt  adiieres  to  the  rocks  is  well  shown  by 
its  ability  to  resist  the  overflow  of  the  tides.  The  displacement  thus  occii- 
sioncd  is  sometimes,  however,  so  excessive  that  the  entire  mass  is  Hoatod  away, 
carrying  with  it  the  fragments  which  had  been  luted  to  it  from  below,  as  well 
as  those  incorporated  with  its  mass  by  deposits  from  above. 

Note  22,  p.  05. 

A  reindeer-skull  found  in  the  same  gorge  was  completoly  fossilized.  Tliat 
the  snow-wf'ters  around  Ilenss'.'laer  Harbor  held  largo  quantities  of  carbonate 
of  lime  in  solution  was  proved  not  onl}'  by  the  tul'aceous  deposit  which  in- 
crusted  the  masses,  but  by  a(  tuMl  tests.  The  broken-down  magnesian  lime- 
stones i>f  the  upper  plateaux  readily  explain  this. 


Note  23,  p.  07. 

The  several  minor  streams  which  uiake  up  Mary  Alinturn  River  run  nearly 
parallel  with  the  axis  of  the  interior  glacier  from  which  they  take  their  origin, 
and  unite  in  a  single  canal  without  intermediate  lakes. 


Note  24.  p.  90. 

The  flower-growth  of  the  valley  of  Mary  Minturn  River  proves  that  cerf-ain 
fivvoring  influences — especially  those  of  reverberation  of  heat  from  the  rocks 


% 

\ 

K 


NOTES. 


457 


sk-ox  {Ovilios 
iiiun  ;  but  the 
e  i'liot-ti'iick-i, 
,,  leave  me  no 


ix  No.  XVIII. 


and  continudl  tlLslillation  (if  w;itcr  tliroui;li  protecting  moyjics — ^ivo  a  local 
ricimess  to  the  Arctic  Hora  wliich  seems  to  render  it  independtMit  (if  arbitrary 
zones.  No  less  than  five  Crucifors  were  cullected  at  t'-is  favored  spot,  two 
species  of  Draba,  tiie  Cochlcaria  fenestrata,  Ilesperls  pallasii,  and  Vesicaria 
arctica.  The  poppy  grew  at  a  little  distance  from  the  stream  ;  and,  still  further 
shade(l  by  the  rocks,  was  tlic  Oxyria  digyna  in  sncli  quantities  as  to  aft'ord 
bountifid  salads  to  our  j^arty.  The  immediate  ncighborhnnd  of  the  water- 
course presented  a  lieautiful  carpet  of  Lychnis  and  Ranunculus,  varied  liy  Uryas 
octopetala  and  Potcntilla  pulchella  growing  from  beds  of  richest  moss.  For  the 
determination  of  the  species  of  these  plants  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Durand :  it 
was  not  until  my  return  and  my  plants  had  been  subjected  to  his  able  analysis 
that  I  was  aware  that  Vesicaria  was  upon  my  list.  1  had  never  seen  it  north 
of  Egedesminde,  latitude  08° ;  yet  both  it  and  llesperis  are  also  among  Dr. 
Hayes's  collections. 


.'d  exertion  or 
ras  a  freciuent 


ivell  shown  by 

nt  thus  occa- 

lloated  away, 

below,  as  well 


lized.     That 

of  carbonate 

sit  which  in- 

gnesian  limc- 


)r  run  nearly 
their  origin, 


that  cerfiain 
3m  the  rocks 


J: 


Note  25,  p.  101. 

The  lines  of  junction  of  Hoes  serve  rudely  as  an  index  to  the  direction  of  drift. 
The  hummocks  are  generally  at  right  angles  to  the  axis  of  drift. 


Note  2G,  p.  110. 

The  dimensions  and  general  structure  of  the  sledge  are  of  vital  importance 
for  a  successful  journey.  Very  slight,  .almost  im[ierceptible,  differences  cause 
an  inci'case  of  friction  more  than  cipial  to  the  draught  of  an  additional  man  or 
dog.  The  curvature  of  the  runners — that  of  minimum  resistance — depends 
upon  elements  not  easily  computed  :  it  is  best  determined  experimentally.  The 
"Faith" — which  for  the  heavy  and  snow-covia-ed  ice  of  !Smith"s  .Straits  was  the 
best  sledge  I  ever  saw — differed  somewhat  from  the  excellent  model  of  Captain 
McClintock,  furnished  me  by  the  British  Admiralty :  its  increased  breadth  of 
runner  kept  it  from  burying  in  the  snow  ;  while  its  lesser  height  made  it 
stronger  and  dimiiushed  the  strain  upon  the  lashings.  I  subjoin  the  dimensions 
of  two  nearly  similar  sledges, — Mr.  McClintock's  and  my  own  :  — 


McClintock' s. 


ft. 


in. 

Lenfrth  of  runner 13    o 

Height  (if     do 0  Hi 

Ilorizoutal  width  of  all  parts 0    L'J 


TlilcknesR  of  all  parts 0  1| 

L(3ngth,  resting  on  a  plane  surface 6  0 

Cross-liars,  Ri.x    in   number,   making  a 

width  of, 3  0 


The  Faith. 

ft.  in. 

Lenjith  of  runner 13  0 

Ileinht  of      do 0  H 

Hoii/.on till  width  of  rail 0  Z^ 

•'  "         base  of  ruiiiUM- 0  3j 

•'  "         other  parts (t  •! 

Thickness  of  all  parts 0  IJ 

lionntli,  restiuji;  on  a  piano  surface 6  0 

Cross-bars,  five  in  number,  makinj?  a 

width  of 3  8 


The  shoeing  of  the  large  sledges  of  English  expeditions  was  of  l)urnisiied  one- 
cighth-inch  iron;  our  own  were  of  anuealdl  tiiree-sixtecntlis-ineh  steel,  as  light 
as  possible,  to  admit  of  sliglitly  countersuidi  rivets,     lieal-skin  lashings  were 


458 


NOTES. 


iiscil  for  the  cross-l),ir.«,  iipjilieii  wut ;    the  wooil  was  hickory  aii'l  o:ik,  not  the 
C.ina(hi  ehii  u.«e(l  by  tlie  LaiiCiistei-  Suuiiil  piirtie.s. 

A  sleilf^e  tlius  coiistnictdl,  with  a  canvas  cover  on  whicli  to  place  and  confine 
tlie  cargo,  would  readily  load,  accorcling  to  the  state  ot"  the  travel,  from  one 
hundreil  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  pounds  per  man.  The  "Faith"'  has  carried 
sixteen  hundred  pounds. 


Note  27,  p.  113. 

Those  boats  were  not  well  adapted  to  their  purpose,  their  bulk  being  t(  * 
great  for  portability.  The  casing  of  basket-willow  I  regard  as  better  than  a, 
Avooilcn  frame  or  distension  by  simjile  intlation  with  air.  No  sledge,  however, 
should  be  without  the  India-rubber  tioats  or  jiortable  boat  of  Liuutenani 
llalkett. 

XoTK  '2S,  p.  114. 

This  is  quoted  from  the  original  report  of  the  party.  There  arc  no  syenites 
upon  this  plain:  tlic  rocks  are  entirely  destitute  of  hornblende.  They  are  of 
the  same  bottom-series  as  the  fiords  about  our  harbor,  highly  feldspathic  and 
Sometimes  porphyritic  granites  passing  into  coarse  gneisses. 


XoTE  29,  p.  117. 

One  en  I  of  the  cord  represented  a  fixed  point,  by  being  anchored  to  the 
bittom;  the  free  end,  with  an  attached  weight,  rose  ami  fell  with  the  brig,  and 
recorded  its  motion  on  the  grooved  circumference  of  a  wheel.  This  method  was 
liable  to  objections;  but  it  was  corrected  b\-  dailj'  soundings.  The  movements 
of  oar  vessel  partook  of  those  of  the  lice  in  which  she  was  imbedded,  and  were 
un.iccompanied  by  any  lateral  deviation. 


Note  30,  p.  118. 
For  methods  of  observation,  sec  Appendix  No.  XI.  Vol.  II. 


Note  31,  p.  122. 

The  almost  incomprehensible  use  of  these  small  kennels  as  dormitories  was 
afterward  satisfactorily  ascertained  from  the  Ksfiuimaux  theiiis<'ives.  They  are 
spoken  of  as  far  south  as  Ivarsuk,  (near  Upcrnavik,)  and  are  at  this  moment 
resorted  to  in  case  of  arrivals  of  hunting-parties,  Sec.  Unlike  the  Siberian 
pologs,  th(>y  are  not  enclosed  by  a  second  chamber.  The  liai'dy  tenant,  muflled 
in  furs,  at  a  temperature  of  — nO°  is  dependent  for  warmth  upon  his  own 
powers  and  the  slow  conduction  of  the  thick  walls. 


X  O  T  !•:  .s. 


409 


uk,  not  tlib 

and  confine 
I,  from  one 
1ms  curried 


Note  32,  p.  120. 

Hair  evidently  from  tlic  niusk-nx  was  found  iio:ir  Ili'fuiic  fnh't.  Tlic  last  of 
these  animals  seen  liy  the  ]]siiuimaux  was  in  the  late  spring  of  18"J0,  near  Cape 
George  llussell.     Here  Metek  saw  a  group  of  six. 


k  lieing  t(  # 

letter  than  a, 

j;e,  however, 

Lieutenant 


Note  33,  p.  138. 

For  an  neeonnt  of  the  destruetion  of  provision-depots  l\v  bears,  see  tlio 
rcMiovts  of  tlie  singularly  efficient  sledgc-operatiuus  of  Coiumoinre  Austin, 
(ParlianuMitary  lUue-l'nuk.)  Tlu)  ■wolverine,  (Gulo  In.trn.i,)  the  most  destruo 
tivo  animal  to  Arctic  caches,  is  not  found  north  of  Lancaster  Sound.  So 
destructive  arc  tlie  hears  about  Peii))ody  Hay,  that  nothing  but  a  metallic 
cylinder  with  conical  terminations  gave  any  pi-otection  against  their  assaults. 


e  no  syenites 

They  are  of 

ilspathic  and 


Note  34,  p.  155. 

The  liiiuids  .sulyected  to  these  low  temperatures  were  for  the  most  part  the 
ethers  and  volatile  oils.     The  i-esults  will  be  published  elsewhere. 


horcd  to  the 
the  brig,  and 
s  method  was 
10  movements 
led,  and  were 


Page  158. 

Hydrophobia.  The  caption  n.t  the  head  of  tlie  page  is  not  intended  to  affirm 
the  existence  of  tliis  disease  in  this  high  North.  Some  of  the  tetanoid  symji- 
toms  attendant  upiin  tonic  spasm  closely  simulated  it ;  but  the  disease,  strictly 
■speaking,  is  unknowu  there. 

Note  35,  p.  220. 

There  is  a  local  I'cservoir  of  interior  ice  around  Capo  Alexander  and  toward 
Capo  Saumaurez,  which  may  be,  however,  a  process  from  the  great  inrr  dc  //laci' 
of  the  interior. 


irmitorics  Tvas 
s.  They  arc 
this  moment 
the  Siberian 
enant,  muffied 
upon  his  own 


Notes  30  to  41  inclusive,  pp.  221,  222. 

I  intended  to  refer  by  these  numerals  to  a  some-what  enlarged  summary  of 
the  geognostic  charactei-s  of  this  coast ;  but  I  find  it  impracticable  to  condense 
my  observations  into  the  narrow  limits  -which  have  been  rescrveii  for  these 
notes.  Like  many  other  topics  of  more  scientific  than  popular  interest,  they 
may  find  a  place  in  the  Official  Reports  upon  which  I  am  now  engaged  under 
the  orders  of  the  Navy  Department. 

Note  42,  p.  222 

'Whore  this  face  came  in  contact  with  opposing  masses  of  rocks, — as  at  islands 
or  at  the  sides  of  its  issuing-trough. — abrupt  fractures  and  excessive  crevnssing 


NOTE  S. 


('     i 


inilicatcd  the  resistance  to  .lie  piissajio  <if  tlie  ice-strpam.  T  tliiiik  I  have  men- 
tioned a  small  island  near  the  cache  that  was  already  partially  buried  hy  the 
advance  of  the  glacier  and  the  discharged  fragments  at  its  base. 


Note  43,  p.  225. 

Our  surveys  give  four  points  for  the  determination  of  the  trend  of  this  interior 
mer  de  ffldce : — 1.  Up  the  fiord  of  Marshall  Bay;  1'.  In  the  interior,  about  hit, 
78°  'o2^,  as  observed  by  Dr.  Hayes;  3.  South  of  Force  Bay;  4.  Near  Etah. 
These  give  the  axis  of  the  stream  nearly  due  north  and  south. 


Note  44,  p.  22G. 


,J  '; 


i:^ 


Australia,  between  Bass  and  Torres  Straits,  measures  about  six.  t  hun- 
dred miles. 

Note  45,  p.  227. 

Looking  upo.-  Jic  glaciers  of  Greenland  as  canals  of  exudation,  for  the  most 
part  at  right  angles  to  the  general  axis  of  the  interior  ice,  we  have  a  system 
of  discharge,  both  on  the  east  and  west  coasts,  coincident  in  direction  with  the 
fiords,  which  themselves  bear  a  fixed  relation  to  the  coast-line.  This  coast- 
line, however,  having  noAV  been  traced  to  its  northern  face,  analog}'  would  sus- 
tain the  view  of  the  central  mcr  de  (/luce  finding  its  exit  into  an  unknown  Polar 
space. 

I  have  spoken  of  Humboldt  Glacier  as  connecting  the  two  continents  of 
America  .ami  Greenland.     The  expression  requires  explanation: — 

All  of  Arctic  America  north  of  Dolphin  and  Union  Straits  is  broken  up  into 
large  insular  masses,  and  may  be  considered  as  a  vast  archipelago.  AVhile, 
therefore,  a  liberal  definition  would  assign  these  land-masses  to  the  American 
continent,  Grinnell  Land  cannot  strictly  be  regarded  as  part  of  the  continent 
of  America.  Washingtim  Land  seems,  in  ]ihysical  characters  and  position,  to 
be  a  sort  of  middle  gi'  nul,  which,  according  to  the  different  views  of  geo- 
graphers, may  be  asbignod  indifferently  to  either  of  the  two  great  divisions. 
From  the  American  land-masses  it  is  separated  by  a  channel  of  but  thirty-five 
miles  in  width  ;  and,  at  this  point,  Greenland,  losing  its  peninsular  character, 
partakes  in  general  character  with  the  land-masses  of  the  West.  A  water- 
channel  not  wider  than  Lancaster  Sound  or  Murchison's,  which  have  heretofore 
not  been  regarded  as  breaking  a  geographical  continuity,  is  all  that  intervenes. 


Note  46,  p.  232. 

Extract  from  Report  of  I.  I.  ITayes,  M.D.,  Surgeon  to  Expedition. 
"Yoii  were  carried  to  the  brig  nearly  insensible  by  the  more  able  men  of  the 
part}',  and  so  swollen  from  scurvy  as  to  be  hardly  rectignisable.     I  believe  that 
a  few  hours'  more  exposure  would  have  terminated  your  life,  and  at  the  time 
regarded  your  ultimate  recovery  as  nearly  hopeless  " 


X  ()  T  E  S. 


401 


liiivc  moii- 
ied  by  the 


his  interior 
,  iilxiut  l;it. 
Nciiv  Etali. 


ix.    n  liun- 


for  tlie  most 
ivc  a  system 
ion  with  tlie 
This  coast- 
y  vronld  sus- 
linown  Tolai" 

outincnts  of 

olvcn  lip  into 
go.     While, 
0  American 
e  continent 
position,  to 
iews  of  gco- 
t  divisions, 
t  thirty-five 
\r  character, 
A  watcr- 
leretofore 
intervenes. 


tion. 

men  of  the 
believe  that 

at  the  time 


i 


N.)TK  47,  p.  2il. 

This  torni  is  applied  to  tlie  eirculjir  hole  which  the  fetid  seal  (/'.  /li.yi'/'i)  con- 
structs in  tlie  yciunger  iloes,  and  thi'ough  whicli  it  tinds  access  to  the  air  and 
sun.  The  term  alltik  is  applied  also  to  the  seal  itself  when  killed  beside  its 
retreat.  I  find  I  have  sometimes  written  the  word  as  allii/:.  He  who  has 
attempted  the  orthography  uf  an  unwritten  language  will  excuse  the  variation. 


Note  48,  p.  290. 

Thedovekic  (Uriti  i/riiU,-)  not  mifrequently  winters  among  the  open  ice  to  the 
southward.  I  killed  a  specimen  in  full  winter  plumage,  in  the  middle  pack  of 
llaliin's  B.iy,  late  in  February. 

Note  49,  p.  299. 

The  immediate  appearance  of  drifting  ice  under  the  influence  of  winds  is  well 
known  to  Arctic  navigators ;  and  tliis  entire  absence  of  it  during  a  continued 
gale  from  the  nortn  s  'cms  to  indicate  either  a  far-extended  open  water,  or  ice 
so  solid  and  unbroken  as  to  bo  incajiable  of  motion. 

Note  50,  p.  o04. 

The  frequency  with  which  the  seal — botli  the  hispid  and  bearded  species — 
occurred  in  the  open  channel  may  explain  why  it  is  .'^o  favorite  a  resort  of  tlic 
wdiite  bear.  No  less  tiian  five  of  tiiese  animals  were  counteil,  and  two  were 
killed.  Tli'.'y  seemed,  however,  generally  to  seek  the  inlaii'l  ravine-;  which 
were  the  breeding-grounds  of  fowl.  No  marine  life  was  reported,  unless  a 
small  fish — probably  a  cottus — which  was  caught  by  the  kittiwake  gull ;  yet, 
from  the  bones  of  cetaceans  found  on  tlie  be.ach,  I  do  not  doubt  but  that  both 
the  sea-unicorn  (.l/o/  ■Khni  mnnorrrox)  and  white  whale  fieouent  the  channel. 

The  bird-life  was  more  extentlcd.     I  throw  into  tabular  form  a  list  of  the 

Birds  seen  ahout  the  Open  Water. 


Brent  goose .. 
Eider-duck... 
King-iluck ... 

Dovekie 

.Arctic  petrel. 


Ivory-gull 

Au  nsli-backed  gull,  1 
(unrecogiiiseil)..,.  j 

Rurgoinaster '  L.  glaueiis 

Kittiwake ,  L.  trydaetylus 

Sea-SHulluw ,  Sterna  arciiea 


Anas  bcrnicla Flying  diagonally  across  ctiannel 

I      to  X.  and  E. 
In    great    numbers    in    southern 

part  of  Kennedy  Channel. 
Flying    iiihmd    up    Jloiris    Bay; 

jircpbahly  lirecding. 
Breeiling    in    rock    X.    of    Cajie 

Jackson  ;  very  numerous. 
X^orlli  of  Capo  JelVurson  and  i>ut  i 

to  seaward. 
Sii'.nc. 


S.  moHissiiua 

S.  spcctabilis 

Uria  grylle 

Procellaria  glacialis.. 

Larus  eburncus 

L.  argentalus? 


."Southern  parts  of  cliannol. 
Same. 

Breeding  in  great  number.^  S.  of 
I'ape  .Jeli'orsoii. 


4G2 


X  ()  T  E  S. 


h 


['  ■■  ^ 


V    i    '  ■. 

■'*: ;     [     !  ' 
i  \   i'    ' 

■r-'V    I 

-i,  ,: 

it     :i: 
it-  ■     ';  * 


Tlie  season  ^vas  imt  siifii.'icntlv  a.lvam'cil  to  allow  me  to  Juil;„'e  ol"  tiu;  cluirac- 
tt'i'.s  oi'  tbu  llora  ;  liiit  both  .Moftoii  iiml  Hans  tliiak  tliat  the  growth  wivs  much 
more  J'oiwaril  tliaii  tliat  ol'  our  own  liarhor.  Tlioy  ilcscribe  tlio  leccsse.s  ol" 
Lalayotti!  JJay  u.s  rivallinj;;  in  rii-hni'ss  tho  jjrowtiis  of  Minturii  lllver.  Tlu'y 
brought  back  no  collections;  ainl  it  was  only  by  carcl'iilly  conijiaiin;:;  known 
^'IKcinicns  lonml  about  iUnssclacr  liay  with  those  seen  and  lecogniseil  to  thu 
north  liy  Hand  that  1  was  able  to  ileterniine  upon  a  certain  number  ol'  planis. 
S'lnie  others — alter  avaiiinj^  niysell'  ol'  the  ailvice  of  my  I'rieml  .Mr.  Duranil,  to 
whose  Courtesy  as  well  as  jiatient  skill  I  am  glad  to  biar  triiiute — 1  ha\e  not 
felt  myself  at  liberty  to  insert  in  this  limiteil  list.  This  enumeration  must  not 
be  regarded  .as  an  in. lex  of  the  actual  vegetation;  but,  with  every  reservation 
for  the  iniperfert  ol)servation  and  the  eaily  season,  1  am  not  satislied  that  the 
lloi'a  of  Kennedy  Chaiuiel  indicates  a  milder  climate  to  the  north  of  our  winter 
harbor.     1  subjoin  my  scanty  list :  — 


RnnuiK'uhis  niviili:; In  ((uantilies  about  the  nm.s.sy  floiics  of  Lafayette  liay. 

I'ajiaver  lunliciuile \\\'\\  ailvaiiecil  and  rpcngnisalilo. 

lles|icris  i>allabii Found  in  bal'aycttu  liay;  the  siliijuo  reeogni-ed  by  IMr. 

])tM'iind. 
iJraba Two  furnis.  (one  lunlialily  alpina,)  associated  with  re- 

<'cigni>aljlo  lychnis  and  eerastium. 

.•^axiTraga  ojipositifolia licginning  to  show  itself. 

"  fbigellaris Tins  latter  in  dried  .state. 

Oxj'ri.a  digynus In  (niantilies  adei{uato  fiu"  food. 

.Salix  uva  ursi t   ,,^^^^  ^j^;^,^  .^^^^j  ,„„,,ii,      ,,,„       ^]^^  cdiannel. 

"     aretica I  "  " 


If  we  add  to  these  three  grasses,  jtoa.  alopecurus.  and  festuca,  with  the  usual 
Arctic  cryptogams,  wo  have,  except  in  the  nnnmalous  case  of  Hesperis,  no 
jdants  not  common  to  Lower  Smith'.s  Straits  and  Green's  Channel. 


XoTKol,  p.  308. 

These  remarks  will  bo  oxpan  led  elsewhere.  The  proscnco  of  marine  shells 
(Saxicava  and  Aslartc)  on  the  upper  terrace-levels  about  Dallas  Bay,  and  simi- 
lar facts  noticed  by  8ir  Edward  IJelclier  and  the  I'.irrow's  Straits  observers, 
leave  little  room  to  doubt  the  conclusion.  But  I  do  not  cite  the  elevation  of  tho 
coast,  either  as  deduced  from  tho  Ksiiuimaux  haliitations  or  otherwise,  except 
as  it  illustrates  changes  in  the  relations  which  the  water  .and  ice  once  bore  to 
each  other.     I  do  not  connect  it  with  tho  question  of  an  open  sea. 


Note  52,  p.  309. 

This  sledgo-runner  was  of  wood  smd  bone  together,  with  holes  perforated  for 
the  seal-skill  lashings  used  by  the  natives  to  scarf  their  work.  It  affords  un- 
mistakable evidence  either  of  a  current-drift  and  occasional  open  water  from 
the  sound,  or  of  the  fornu-r  ju'csence  of  imtives  to  the  north, — this  latter  imply- 
ing competent  hunting-resources. 


N  0  T  E  S. 


403 


tlic  chiiriic- 
1  WHS  nmcli 

VLT.  Tlu'y 
•iny;  known 
uisL'il  to  tllJ 
1-  ul'  i)laiits. 

Dinaiul,  to 
-1  have  not 
,n  u\n<i  not 

rofsi-'rvatiou 

10(1    tllllt  tilt* 

'  our  winlur 


Hycllt.'  liay. 
li-o.l  liV  Ml--  1 
uil  with  vo- 


ith  tlK'  usual 
llcspevis,  no 


Iniavinc  pliells 
lay,  antl  shui- 
lits  (tl)<ervcrs, 
t'vatiou  of  the 
Irv.isc,  except 
i>  imce  bore  to 


icrforateil  for 

lit  nlfovds  un- 

;'u  water  from 

latter  iniiily- 


NoTE  5."},  p.  oO'J. 


ll;i 


linjiuiar  iiiiiilyMS  ot    tlie,-e   ei 


f  th 


in'litions  may  lie  seen  in  Professor  Forbes's 


recent  woik  on  the  erlaeiers  o 


,f  .N^ 


irwav. 


\\> 


e  cannot  refer  tliis  ojie:!  water  to 


any  analojj;on-   causes   witli   tliose    which   explain    the   otiier   polynias    on    this 
estuary.      Davis  Straits,  utf  Cape  Walsinjiliani,  wiierc  the  cliannel  nar 


row-  to 


one  liumlreil  ami  twenty  miles,  ami  Smitli's  Straits,  which  between  Capes  Isa- 
bella and  OliNen  liave  a  lireadtli  of  duly  tiiirty->ix,  are  at  tiiosc  points  c1ii;.''.l'c(1 
with  immense  tiehls  of  ice,  extending  in  the  earlier  season  fi'om  siiore  to  siiore 
and  arrc-tiii;;  the   p:issajre  of   the  iliift    fi'iii  a'pove.      It    is   easy  to  cx) 


im  tlie 


linil 


occurrence  of  jiolynia  below  tliese  two  bai  riers, — the  North  Water  of  tiie  whalers 
and  the  upper  water  wliich  1  met  in  my  unsuccessfid  effort  to  reach  Beechy 
Island.  Ihit  between  Capes  J>arrow  and  Jackson,  where  Kennedy  Chamiid  is 
contractcil  to  tiiirty-live  miles  across,  and  where  the  ices  from  al)ove,  if  tlierc 
were  smdi,  ou^iit  to  be  arretted  as  in  the  oilier  two  cases,  we  fnumi  tlii^  open 
water:  while  below  it,  in  IVabncly  liay,  where  analogies  would  snjrirest  tlie 
probab!lity  ul'  another  jiolynia,  we  fouml  a  densely-impacted  solid  mass.  1  do 
not  see  how,  indejiendently  of  direct  observation,  this  state  of  facts  could  be 
exjdaiMed  wiliiout  sup[>o-in};  an  iceless  area  to  the  farther  North. 

How  far  tills  may  extend, — whellier  it  does  or  does  not  communicate  with  a 
Polar  ba'-in, — we  are  without  facts  to  determine.  I  woidd  say,  tiowever,  as  a 
cautionary  check  to  some  theories  in  connection  with  such  an  open  basin,  that 
the  influence  of  riqiid  tides  and  currents  in  destroying  ice  by  abrasion  can 
hardly  lie  realizeil  by  tliose  who  have  not  witnesse<l  their  action.  It  is  not  nn- 
common  to  see  such  tidal  sluices  remain  open  in  the  midst  of  winter.  Sucli, 
indecil,  are  the  i)olyni;i  (jf  the  llus.-iaus,  the  stromhols  of  the  Greenland  Danes, 
and  the  familiar  "open  lioles"  of  the  whalers. 


Note  54,  p.  322. 

I  regret  that,  after  a  careful  study  of  the  work  of  my  predecessor.  Captain 
Ingletield,  I  am  unable  to  make  his  landmarks  on  the  K.  coast  of  Greenland 
correspoml  with  my  own.  Tlie  few  sliort  iiours  s]>ent  by  the  ''Isabel"  on 
Smith's  Straits,  and  tiie  many  dilhculties  wliicli  we  know  to  be  attendant  upon 
a  hurried  survey,  readily  account  for  discrepancies  of  beiirinij;  ami  position.  A 
sketch  inserted  by  Captain  Inglefield,  in  iiis  narrative  at  page  70,  locates  Cape 
Frederick  Vll.  as  the  lirst  headland  to  tlie  N.  of  the  second  inilentatlon,  whicii, 
according  to  my  survey,  should  be  "  Force  Ijay."  But  the  absence  of  Pekiutlik, 
(Littleton  Island,)  which  is  unmistakably  promiuent  as  a  feature  ui  the  coast, 
enibtn-rasses  me.     My  sketches  of  this  coast  are  iu  detail. 


Note  55,  p.  ooG. 

The  eutii'c  coast  between  Whale  Sound  and  Ca)ie  Alexander  is  studdcil  with 
small  glaciers.  Some  of  these  are  <if  Saussure's  secoml  oriler, — mere  trough.? 
upon  the  Hanks  of  the  coast-ridge;   but,  fur  the  most  part,  they  are  connected 


404 


NOTES. 


vitli  iiiti'ticir  niir.s  ilr  ;iliic(\  iuul  iivo  urged  lurwiird  in  tlioir  dosccnt  by  the  glacial 
uccuiuultiliiiiii^  of  liirgc  arciis.  The  virr  tie  glace  wliich  occuiiics  tho  central 
plateau  of  Xdrtiiunitit'rliinil  is  cciniplcti'ly  isoluted  ami  washed  l)y  the  sea,  and 
is  necessarily  di'[)eMdent  lor  its  increnient.s  njxm  the  atniosjiherii;  |iri'cipitation 
of  a  very  limited  surf.ice ;  yet  it  sustains  in  its  discharge  no  less  than  seven 
glaeiers, — iierliajis  more, — one  of  which  is  half  a  mile  in  iliaiiu'tca'  hy  two  hun- 
dred feet  in  dejitli.  It  is  a  !«tartling  instance  of  the  redumlance  of  Arctic 
ice-growth. 

NoTK  T)!),  p.  430. 

This  propensity  of  tlio  bear — in  fact,  of  all  predatoi-y  animals — is  alluded  to 
by  Scoresliy  and  others.  It  was  cui-ioiisly  shown  in  the  March  journey  of  ]S.')1, 
Avlien  a  woollen  siiirt  of  iMr.  McGary's  was  actually  torn  to  shreds  and  twisted 
into  coils. 


Tho  subjoined  arc  given  as  aids  to  physical  inquiry  on  the  part  of  future 

travellers : — 

Directions  to  Sites  of  llmsschter  Harbor. 

1.  The  observatory  was  placei^  upon  the  northernmost  of  the  rocky  group  of 
islets  that  formed  our  liarbor.  It  is  seventy-six  English  feet  from  the  highest 
and  northernmost  salient  point  of  this  island,  in  a  direction  S.  11°  E.,  or  in  one 
with  said  point  and  the  S.E.  projection  of  the  southernmost  islet  of  the  group. 

2.  A  natural  face  of  gneiss  rock  formed  the  western  wall  of  tho  observatory. 
A  crevice  in  this  r(jek  has  been  filled  with  melted  lead,  in  the  centre  of  which 
is  a  copper  bolt.  Eight  feet  from  this  bolt,  ami  in  tho  direction  indicated  by 
the  crevice,  stood  the  magnetometer.  This  direction  is  given  in  case  of  local 
disturbance  from  the  nature  of  the  surrounding  rocks. 

3.  On  the  highest  point  of  the  island  mentioned  in  paragraph  1  is  a  deeply- 
chiselled  arrow-nuirk  lilled  with  lead.  This  is  twenty-nine  feet  above  the  mean 
tidal  plane  of  our  winter  quarters  for  the  years  18015— jI.  The  arrow  points  to 
a  mark  on  a  rocky  face  denoting  the  lowest  ti<le  of  the  season  :  both  of  these 
are  relVrroil  by  sextant  to  known  points. 

4.  In  an  enlarged  crack  five  feet  due  west  of  above  arrow  is  a  glass  jar 
containing  documents.     (See  p.  .'llo.j 

5.  A  cairn  calls  attention  to  those  marks :  nothing  is  placed  within  it. 


NoTK. — The  author  is  not  responsible  for  tiic  accuracy  of  the  sketches  on 
pages  201  and  300,  the  rough  original  sketches  having  been  modified  by  tho 
artist. 


EXD   OF   VOL.  I. 


i  the  glftcial 
lli'j  cciitriil 
hi3  sen,  niiJ 
iri'(;ii)itiition 
i  tliiui  sevon 
iiy  two  lain- 
;c  of  Arctic 


!S  alluilod  to 
m-yof  l«.-)i, 
au'l  twisted 


rt  of  future 


ky  group  of 
1  the  liigliest 
E.,  or  in  oue 

tlic  group, 
observatory, 
tre  of  ■which 

indicated  by 
case  of  local 

is  a  deeply- 
3ve  tho  mean 
•ow  points  to 
)uth  of  these 

i  a  glass  jar 

lin  it. 


sketches  on 
dified  by  the 


